DIY audio speaker repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of audio speakers from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Acoustic systems are divided into active, passive, the difference is limited by the presence of sound processing chips inside, powered by electric current. Amplifiers, filters, interfaces for reading flash media, decoding compressed audio formats. In the latter case, the speaker system approximates the functionality of the player. Consider what to do when the speakers are not working. The speakers include a myriad of sound reproducing devices, readers are interested in how they repair speakers with their own hands. You will need special glue. In the days of the USSR, BF 4, AK 20. Solvents are selected accordingly (based on glue). It will be necessary, disassembling, dismantling the connection, and repairing the speaker system yourself.

A movable part with a rigid plate creates air vibrations that are perceived by the human ear.

Do-it-yourself repair of acoustic systems, doubting how the device works, is supposed to use the principle - do not harm. Regardless of the size, the speaker of the speaker system is formed by electrical, mechanical parts. The first is formed mainly by inductors. The second includes a permanent magnet, a membrane. Here is an incomplete classification of speakers of acoustic systems.

Readers are familiar with naturally occurring audio reproducing devices. There is not always a coil in the speaker system. Therefore, before the repair, in the process, the master performs the correct classification of the devices, properly carrying out the necessary operations.

Video (click to play).

Partially touched the device. Let's consider in more detail the electrodynamic models. The diffuser forms the support for the cap. It is represented by the semblance of a wide horn on which the coil is glued from the back side. Flexible copper conductors that carry an electric current, punching the diffuser from the inside, fit directly to the membrane cap. The soldering points are visible from the front of the speaker. The coil is light; it is required to provide a relatively low inertia of the system. Even the tuning fork A of the first octave lies at 440 Hz. It is clear that for fluctuations of the indicated speed, the moving part of the speaker of the acoustics must be light.

The magnet is fixed on the bed. Usually circular. An inductor runs in both directions in the hole, moving the cap-membrane assembly. The connecting wires make constant vibrations. A centering washer is used to position the movable part along the vertical, horizontal axis. Perforated piece of elastic material, centering the location of the cap, diffuser. The centering washer does not interfere with the displacement of the moving part along the axis of symmetry. The repair is ridiculously simple:

Since the membrane and cap do not break, it is a matter of checking the electrical installation, the soldering points of the wires, the integrity of the coil.

Inductance is wound in the image and likeness of the old one. Each layer of turns is coated with BF 4 glue. Poor soldering is performed anew. Select the appropriate inductance winding technique. Usually a special device is made, formed by two pairs of racks, standing opposite each other on a long board. Both are connected by axles. One contains the core of the new coil, the other contains the purchased wire. It is recommended to buy the wire with varnish insulation. It is necessary to maintain the correct thickness. You can measure using a vernier caliper.

Winding is relatively fast while the glue dries. The coils fit tightly to one another, adhering to the shuttle principle. It is important to maintain the correct number of turns, properly position the terminals.

It is often necessary to disassemble a speaker of a speaker system for repair. Stock up on solvent. The glued joints are wetted, waiting for a fixed time. Please note: the joints are carefully cleaned. It is made regardless of the glue used to assemble the speaker of the speaker system.

Speakers are different types of speaker systems, each with a limited frequency response. Everyone works as a kind of mechanical filter. However, it happens that you need to shift the range ... You can raise the resonance frequencies of the electrodynamic system by varnishing the centering washer. Used 5-10% solution of ZAPON, cellulose in acetone. The varnish is applied with a soft brush in a circle. Avoid misaligning the moving part of the loudspeaker. Consecutively performing the operations, we will increase the resonance frequency by 1.5–2 times, approximately one octave.

To lower the range, weights should be glued to the moving part. The correct ring of cardboard is attached to the back of the diffuser. It is necessary to more precisely maintain the symmetry of the arrangement of the parts. The sound pressure drops rapidly. The volume decreases, the range is narrowed from the high frequency side. However, in the area of resonance, the loudspeaker will perform well.

You can expand the range in both directions (if there is no cap). In the center, from the front, a truncated cone is glued above the inductance coil of the speaker of the speaker system. The mass is made as small as possible. Thin, thick paper impregnated with ZAPON varnish will do. The top plate is equal to the coil, the height is half the cone, the taper is 70 degrees. Due to the increase in the mass of the moving part, the resonant frequency decreases, but the upper edge of the range rises, thanks to the rigid core, which is harder than the diffuser. As a result, the spectrum of the reproduced sounds expands in both directions. The total increase will be one and a half or two octaves, the game is worth the candle. Take care to correctly configure the electronic part: if there are passive filters on capacitors and resistors, they will limit (cut off) the capabilities of the mechanics.

Craftsmen increase the sound pressure at the resonant frequency for an unshielded magnetic system. Try to find one or a similar set ring. Then glue the second magnet on the reverse side of the one standing, the interaction of the fields will increase, therefore, the strength of the sound will increase.

The speaker system is simple and can break, they said. We hope the renovation goes off without a hitch.

Hello. In the last article, I promised the blog subscribers that I would describe how to repair audio speakers with a breakdown in the form of an inoperative channel, and even with my own hands.

Today we will talk about this. If you read the article where I showed a way to solve the problem with the left speaker not working, then you realized that it was not at all about the audio settings in the operating system. The whole problem was in the 3.5 plug that connects to the audio output of the computer sound card. Usually this output is green.

at the exit they give out 8 watts each and, in principle, enough for an apartment.

I somehow gave these speakers to a friend for a couple of days of use. Taking them back, I did not immediately check their condition. On New Year's Eve, I decided to connect and listen to how things were going, it turned out that it was bad. One channel did not work, and it was not at all about the settings. The photo below shows what the problem is:

The tip of the plug was broken off, and as you know, this is the contact for the left channel of the speakers.

If you are faced with the same problem, then read on and find out how to solve it.

In my case, everything is obvious. The broken tip is to blame. But what if the plug is intact, but there is still no sound in one speaker? Then use a tester and ring the contacts for integrity from the 3.5 pin itself to the speakers.

I started to replace. It is well disassembled and has an insulating tube.By promoting the purchase, as shown in the screenshot:

I decided to disassemble the old connector in order to solder the channels to the new one in similar places:

but, as you can see, it didn't work out. Everything is sealed to the conscience. So, throwing away the old one, a cord of 3 wires remains in your hands.

It remains to understand which channel, to which of them belongs. We disassemble the column in which all the main electronics are located. It is easy to find it, since all wires and a cord from the 220 network come out of it. Disassembling labor is not enough to unscrew 4 screws from the back of the column.

After disassembling, we examine the board and find the place into which these very channels and mass are soldered.

In the photo below, it is clear that the red wire is the right channel. ® , white is left (L) and black is mass or ground (G).

Below I present to your attention the wiring of the channels of the new plug, which must be installed.

We strip the wires from the peel, long enough for installation. I do this procedure by touching the peel to the tip of the soldering iron and drawing it to the right place along the length.

After that, the sting should be cleaned of the mass caked on it from the melted wire wrapper. Here I am using the advice of my friend, with the help of whom a video was filmed for one of the articles. The soldering iron should be cleaned with an ordinary metal dish brush.

We solder the channels according to the picture I already showed:

To do everything neatly and to be sure that no short circuit occurs inside the new plug, I used a glue gun.

I took such a precautionary measure due to the fact that the new connector has not only just been replaced, but it is also made of metal.

After planting the channels in their places in the process of repairing audio speakers, heating the glue gun, we fill the contacts with glue so that they do not come into contact with each other.

At the final stage, we put insulation over our glued mass and screw the connector body onto it.

The whole work took me about 30 minutes, and I was very pleased with the result. After checking the work through my smartphone, I set about installing the speakers in their original place. This is how we figured out how to repair audio speakers with a failed left channel.

Thank you all for your attention. I recommend subscribing to the free blog newsletter and you will receive new articles in your mailbox.

Has the speaker wheezed or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First, diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.

We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.

Now the second check. We put the speaker on the magnet and gently move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustle or creak, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.

If there is no grinding, and the winding is open - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper veins that break over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. T.F. a suitable cross-section or a braid tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the place of soldering with Moment glue.

If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, put the speaker on the magnet and with a swab dipped in acetone, soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it, prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. In the same way, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull the diffuser straight up without skewing.

I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and centering washer, so as not to disturb the centering of the speaker.

To rewind, you need to assemble a simple device, the device of which is clear from the figure. The hardest part is the spool holder. To make it, you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material - any metal.

We measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The mandrel for the spool should have a diameter of x + 0.5 mm at one end and x-0.5 mm at the other end.
On the large end, we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
We drill a 6.5 mm through hole for the stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.

Now you can start winding. We need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.

We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding by gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we glue it with a layer of paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers. We wind the wire coil to coil, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind not tightly, but tightly.

On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same actions in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amperes to dry. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help to easily remove it from the mandrel.

We check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap and start assembling.
We need to align the coil exactly to the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a film or X-ray film gasket in the gap.
2) Apply a small constant voltage of 2-3 Volts to the coil so that it is slightly pulled inward.

Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically downward without skewing and without radial displacement, press. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.

After the glue dries, remove the gasket and check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, we glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!

Speaker systems can be active or passive. Internally, they have different microcircuits used to process audio.
In order for the sound to be of high quality, many devices are used to reproduce it. But all these devices cannot be seen with the naked eye, since they are located inside.
But everyone who owns them should know how the repair of loudspeakers takes place. Repair of acoustic buttons and other elements can be done with your own hands, if you know the speaker device.
In our case, we will consider the situation when the speaker speakers stopped working. You need to purchase special glue in advance, which may be needed during the repair process.
In general, any quick-drying glue you can find will do. It may just happen that during dismantling you will have to disassemble the glued joints. After that, they will need to be collected back somehow.

Before you start repairing your loudspeakers, you should know how the system works. This is necessary in order not to harm her in the process of performing certain actions.
Despite the size of the speaker, it has two components: mechanical and electrical. The first includes an induced current coil.
The second contains a magnet and a special membrane. At first glance, this mechanism seems to be simple, but it is not.
For this, you may need a speaker classification:

Reel to reel.Their principle of operation resembles the operation of a gas water heater (used to heat water). The ring of the magnet makes it move due to the formation of current in it.

Note: the device will work as long as all the turns of the coil are intact. Therefore, if the coil speaker does not work, then first of all you should pay attention to the integrity of the coil.

Tape. In this case, the variable magnet is a narrow corrugation.
At the same time, there is no coil inside, as in the previous version. To use such a device, you must purchase matching transformers in advance, which must be connected to the circuit.
Most often, these transformers are already installed from the factory.

Note: it is their presence or absence that allows you to quickly find out the type of speaker.

Isodynamic, which include a square or round spiral. It carries out circular movements together with the membrane, being under the influence of a magnetic field.

Electrostatic speakers. Their main difference is that they work without any movement. The current is initially already in the circuit, so you do not need to take any action for it to be formed.
In this case, the membrane moves a little, but it does not perform any translational movements.

Note: They are ideal for high-frequency speakers.

Capacitor, which includes two electrodes. One of them is quite massive, since it performs an important function - the supply of variable potential.
It acts as a support for the second electrode. By the way, instead of the second, you can use a foil twisted into a thin tube.
There are also other types of speakers, but only the most popular and common ones were considered.

The speakers work as follows:

Thin wires go to the cap located on the membrane. The cap itself is attached with a diffuser.
So these wires pierce it so that they have access directly to the cap.
The coil should be light, as it is necessary to achieve low inertia in the system. After all, the frequency of oscillations in the dynamics is enormous, therefore, in order to move at such a speed, the moving part of the speaker does not have to be heavy.
The magnet is stationary. Most often it is in the shape of a ring. A coil with an induced current is located in the hole.
As a rule, it moves back and forth. It also sets in motion a membrane with a cap.
The connecting wires are also in constant motion. So that the moving parts do not move from their place, in the center they are connected with a special washer, which helps to ensure that the axis of symmetry is not violated.

Speaker repair is a fairly straightforward process. The cap and membrane rarely break.
Most often, the coil fails. You should also check the soldering points of the wires, since it is possible that one of them has come off.

The old turns should be removed.

Wrap inductance on the coil as it was on the old one.

Each layer should be carefully greased with glue so that the turns are not moving.

Note: it is because of the high mobility that the turns can break. Therefore, you need to do everything possible to ensure that they are fixed in the best possible way.

The wire can be wound in any convenient way. The simplest option is to take two racks.
Place them parallel to each other and connect with an axis. Place the core on one side and the store wire on the other. The wiring should be wound quickly until the glue is dry.

Note: the wire must be lacquered.
First, it will improve its quality, so it will not rip as quickly. And secondly, it will be less likely that a short circuit will occur in the system.

The coils fall on top of each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there is a sufficient number of revolutions.
In addition, you need to correctly place the conclusions.

Acoustic speaker in the car

Quite often, in the process of repairing loudspeakers, you have to disassemble the speakers. Therefore, you should stock up on solvent before starting repairs.
All glued joints must be moistened with glue and wait a while. Particular attention is paid to cleaning the joints.
Thus, you can do the repair of speakers with your own hands, without leaving your home. Initially, you need to purchase glue, the price of which is scanty.
Before starting the repair yourself, you also need to review the photos and videos with this topic, of which there are a lot on the Internet. Instructions on this will also come in handy.

Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount. I think the following will help anyone who has hands that grow out of the right place to fix the speaker.

Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222), now serving as one of the autosubs. A week later, after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he emitted extraneous overtones when working out the bass parts, wheezed a little. It was decided to conduct an autopsy.

After autopsy, a diseased organ was removed from the patient's body - woofer 25GDN-1-4, 86 of release. The organ clearly needed operation - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click), and when ringing in various tones (generated by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible rattling-crackling sound was heard with a large diffuser stroke and when ultra-low (5-15Hz) ) frequencies. It was decided to trepan this organ

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads)

Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle to the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).

... the place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (around the perimeter).

... and the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the basket of the diffuser holder (again around the perimeter)

In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)

Attention! When working with a solvent, you should observe safety measures - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!

When wetting, use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of the coil and the centering washer!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker. We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.

We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!

Gently bend back the copper antennae.

... and unsolder the lead wires.

We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut the supply wiring at the break point.

... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin). Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!

Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "antennae" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years?

We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.

We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to maintain the length.

We center the diffuser in its basket using film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter, to maintain the same gap. The amount (or thickness) of the centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruding outward, it freely rests on it and does not fall inward. For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of film are enough for this, placed in pairs in front of each other. The length of the film should be such that it does not interfere if you put the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below. We glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, without skewing).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our photographic film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!).

Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent. In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.

We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.

We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of the new factory analogous speaker.

That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.

Yes, after the operation, the former patient got a second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work:

According to eyewitnesses, during the operation of the amplifier, there was a sudden strong click in the speakers, and the sound disappeared from all speakers.

We begin the repair of computer speakers with a superficial examination. He did not reveal any suspicious changes. The power LED lights up when the amplifier is connected to the network, which indicates the passage of voltage through the network cord - transformer - rectifier - printed circuit board. There are no extraneous odors, the transformer and radiator with a line of ULF TDA2030 microcircuits do not heat up.

We connect the control speaker to one of the channels and touch the input terminal TDA2030 on the board through a screwdriver. Strong hum at 50Hz is heard from the speaker. The same is in the subwoofer - it means that the amplifier microcircuits themselves are working. Now check the rest of the voltages. The input signal control board contains a processor and a few simple switch chips.

Power for this entire small-signal path is provided by three KRENKs (78LXX). One 5-volt for the processor voltage, and two 12-volts, such as 78L12, for the rest of the microcircuits. Here is one of them and was covered. The output of the 78L12 stabilizer is zero.

This stuff is enough at hand, so I immediately re-solder it to a new one, obviously working. Check: the computer amplifier is working, all five channels and the subwoofer are playing.

Diagnostics and testing within an hour showed excellent work of the ULF. The patient is resuscitated. All systems are normal. End of recording.

How good it is sometimes in the summer on the street in a cool gazebo to listen to your favorite tracks ... We got together like that in the summer with a friend sat listening to some drummer on his old S30 Radiotehnika. Surprisingly, the columns, in spite of their already advanced age, were always hollowed out very well. But after a couple of tracks at full power of this ULF, one of the speakers began to wheeze strangely ...

Thinking about what happened, I started looking for the reason in the ULF, disassembled the amplifier and measured all the voltages. Everything turned out to be normal. After that I decided to swap the channels and turned on the sound for the whole ... All the same column with the same effect. I had to repair, by the way, this is not the first speaker repair, I already had experience in repairing the Chinese speaker of the Sven speaker

After the autopsy, it turned out that the inside was GDN 25, which I had previously seen only in pictures on the Internet.

Here is a photo of the speaker of the GDN 25

Having twisted the speaker and examined it from all sides, no defects were found. But then I slightly pressed down the diffuser, I found that the diffuser was torn off from the centering washer, which can be clearly seen in the photo

Rub the diffuser against the core of the magnet and if this nuisance is not eliminated, then in addition to the grinding, which presses on the ear, the sleeve will fray and close the coil, which can lead to the destruction of the ULF.Fortunately, such repairs are carried out very quickly and will not take much effort.

To repair the speaker, we need:

Glue. I used regular rubber, liquid 88 glue

Acetone. I used regular nail polish thinner.

Syringe. For easy bonding of the diffuser

When everything is ready, you can start repairing

You need to remove the dust cap to get to the speaker coil. To do this, you need to slowly soak the edges of the cap with acetone to soak the glue. It is convenient to do this using the same syringe. The photo clearly shows what needs to be done! The photo shows how the solvent has not yet been absorbed.

After the cap is soaked, it is literally 5 minutes, we carefully try to pry it by the edges, only very carefully because the diffuser can be damaged. If the cap does not slip, add more acetone. It should slide easily.

Here is the cap removed

As you can see, the speaker is still damp. He needs to be allowed to dry, literally half an hour is enough for this, this is in the summer and just not in the sun. Drying should be done in the shade and in a well-ventilated place ..

When the speaker is dry, we need to center the speaker. To put it simply, it is necessary to align the sleeve so that it does not touch the core at full speed. This is done using regular film from a camera. If it is not there, you can use an old X-ray photograph, or at worst, as I did, take an ordinary thick thin cover from a notebook.

So you need to twist the film into a tube and insert it between the core and the sleeve

And press down tightly so that the diffuser is well pressed against the washer. Then we collect the syringe with glue, so the thinner the glue, the better

And now we carefully glue the washer with a good layer of glue. Be careful. Hold the needle, because under the pressure of the piston, it sometimes flies out and can get injured.

Stretch out with glue as seen in the photo

After you have stretched it once, look carefully, perhaps there is not enough glue and you need to walk again .. Remember that the quality of your work depends on the quality of the sound and the absence of alterations.
This completes the repair. Once again, check if the washer is pressed tightly and leave the speaker to dry for a day until the glue completely solidifies.

After a day, we carefully take out the centering film and try to connect the speaker for testing. Drive it well and test its strength. If everything is normal, glue the cap back in place and put the speaker in the speaker. This completes the repair

Here are a couple more photos of the speakers Radiotehnika S-30

The repair is over. A year has already passed since this speaker works and it still pleases with its sound. Therefore, do not be afraid to repair the speakers and do it with high quality so that you do not have to repeat the repair. And just good luck to you
From SW. Admin check

The book deals with practical issues related to the repair of personal computers at home or office.

After reading it, you will learn about methods for eliminating common computer malfunctions, learn how to check its performance, identify devices that are out of order, and select a suitable replacement for them. The pages of this publication provide recommendations on how to prevent problems and keep your computer running. The material is presented in a simple and intelligible form, so even a novice user will be able to understand it.

Speaker malfunctions

Despite the fact that the speakers look like very reliable devices, they can fail just like the rest of the PC. Moreover, the reason for their failure does not have to be a factory defect, often a defect occurs through the fault of the user. First of all, like any other technology, acoustic systems do not like to operate at their maximum power. Why? When the volume knob is turned to maximum, the power supply generates the most power.Usually, the built-in power supply in acoustic systems is designed to operate at nominal power, and when it rises to the maximum, it starts to warm up, the elements of its circuit work under heavy load. If the power LED on the front panel of the speaker starts blinking to the beat of the music, this indicates that the power supply unit is working at its limit and the likelihood of its failure is high. This should not be allowed. It is recommended to listen to multimedia speakers at a maximum of 70-80% of the maximum power. Also, the power supply unit often fails with voltage drops.

A defective power supply unit can be repaired by replacing the failed element in it. The AC does not use impulse power supplies. They are made according to the traditional scheme.

If you cannot find the appropriate replacement element, then based on the specification of the integrated low-frequency amplifier (ULF) microcircuit, you should determine the required power parameters: rated voltage, power. It is easier to find out the microcircuit specification in reference books or on the Internet. If the power supply unit cannot be repaired, then it remains to build a power supply unit into the AC, similar in operating parameters. It can be purchased from specialist retailers, radio markets, or online. For an enthusiastic radio amateur, it will not be difficult to make a power supply that is suitable in terms of electrical parameters and design.

Failure of the power supply unit in the AC, though frequent, is not the only defect. It happens that the amplifier microcircuit breaks down, it is completely subject to replacement. However, first you need to decide whether such a replacement is economically justified. In the case of inexpensive speakers, it is most likely easier to replace the speakers themselves if you cannot find the required ULF microcircuit on sale.

If the amplifier fails, the issue is resolved by replacing either the outgoing element or the entire amplifier. If it is not possible to replace the built-in amplifier, it is not difficult for a radio amateur to assemble an amplifier circuit similar in parameters and dimensions. Also on sale there are ready-made kits - a board with parts from which the amplifier is assembled. Before replacing, make sure that it is he who is out of order. Use a multimeter to check the amplifier output.

Loudspeakers - speakers fail much less often. However, it may be necessary to replace a speaker whose sound is impaired - “wheezing”. Such a loudspeaker can "sit down", for example, after prolonged operation at maximum power, the speaker breaks, or if it is accidentally pierced with a sharp object, etc. You should choose a loudspeaker that matches the damaged type, size, power, resistance.

Installing a low impedance speaker instead of a high impedance speaker is not worth it. For example, if you install a 4-ohm speaker instead of an 8-ohm speaker, you risk that the amplifier will be damaged. The opposite is possible, but the playback power will then decrease.

In specialized workshops and service centers, they can rewind a burned-out loudspeaker winding.

The reason for the "wheezing" of the speaker in some cases is a speaker breakdown - a poor-quality conductor connecting the external speaker terminal with the coil winding. If the conductor is broken, then the speaker (column) does not work. The repair consists in replacing the conductor. If there is no corresponding wire on sale, take it from another non-working speaker. When replacing, attach the conductor securely to the diffuser. Better to fix with epoxy.

If the volume or frequency controls are broken, a crackling sound is heard from the speakers while adjusting the corresponding parameters. Regulators (variable resistors) must be replaced with new ones and re-soldered. Their cost is low. However, if you want (cannot) replace them, try to repair them. Lubrication of the graphite surface, along which the middle contact slider moves, will get rid of unwanted overtones, "wheezing".

Remove the potentiometer, disassemble and look at the graphite surface.

If you can see a deep groove drawn by the slider, then either it needs to be replaced, or, if the design allows, to move the surface a little, so that the slider walks on the un-jaded surface.

If the surface is still in working order, it is advisable to clean it of dirt and dust with isopropyl alcohol prior to lubrication. It is recommended to use KONTAKT WL aerosol lubricant to lubricate the graphite surface. Then apply grease to the graphite coating. Sometimes they are lubricated with machine oil, technical vaseline, transformer oil. Of course, there will be benefits. But, most likely, over time, such a lubricant will deteriorate properties. Better to apply a lubricant designed for this.

Special solutions are sold on radio markets and in online stores, but they can gradually dry out. After lubrication, spread the grease over the surface with several turns.

Using a multimeter is a good idea to check the change in resistance as you rotate.

Sometimes it is necessary to press the slider slightly for tighter contact, but not hard. A soldering iron, an awl and tweezers will help you with your work.

A large part of the defects are associated with incorrect connection, malfunctioning connecting cables, as well as problems with the sound card and incorrect settings in the PC, drivers, etc. The cable usually breaks due to careless connection and disconnection of the plug to the sound source. All connections must be reliable with good contact.

To check if the amplifier of active speaker systems is working, it is enough to connect the plug to a regular player. Or just touch the plug - the audio input of the speaker systems with your finger and listen: when you turn the volume control knob, the “hiss” from the speakers should increase. In some cases, a blown fuse is the cause of an amplifier or subwoofer inoperative.

When using speakers, try not to place them near heating devices, and unplug them in a thunderstorm.

Microphones and headphones are susceptible to malfunctions. Most of the defects arise from improper use, careless handling, and carelessness. Malfunctions often occur due to breakage of contacts or their violation. If microphones are used in a studio, the cables running through the studio should be protected from damage. When laying audio cables, you should try to keep them away from electrical wiring as much as possible. Condenser microphones are not recommended to be carried or even moved while energized. In general, microphones are sensitive to shock, vibration and shock during operation. Ribbon microphones require increased attention during operation, since they are as sensitive as possible.

Always try to take precautions. Do not connect speakers to a powered amplifier. When connecting, do not allow short circuits between conductors. Do not expose the surface of the equipment to sunlight. Radiator fins on amplifiers or subwoofers must not be covered by anything. In addition, small children may be the source of defects, having thrown metal objects inside, clogging the port of the phase inverter with small toys.

Change the batteries in the control panels in a timely manner, do not allow them to oxidize. Try to use quality batteries and AA batteries. Even a new battery is not immune to the fact that it does not hold a charge, especially if from a little-known manufacturer. To charge the batteries, purchase a microprocessor-tested charger.

In the case when there are no communication wires, it is easy to make them yourself.

The audio wire should be three-core with a common screening braid or with a braid shielding each core.The shielding braid is a "braided mesh" made of copper wire, the solid braid better shields the signal from interference. You will need RCA connectors and a 3-pin Minijack.

If there is no three-core wire, a regular ball screw will do. Lead one core of this wire outside as a "minus". Connectors from old wires and headphones are quite suitable. You will need plastic clamps or electrical tape and heat shrink tubing of the appropriate diameter.

Clean Minijack, solder wire. A heat-shrinkable tube is put on top, after which it is fired with a match or a lighter. Do not keep the lighter in one place for a long time to avoid charring the pipe. A building hair dryer is a good choice, with an average temperature of 150-200 ° C.

Disassemble the RCA connectors, solder the corresponding wires to their two "pluses". Then a "minus" is soldered to one of them together with a piece of wire that will go to the "minus" of the second connector. Collect connectors and burn.

Video (click to play).

In order not to dangle the "negative" wire, fix it with electrical tape or plastic clamps.

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