Often, it is more profitable to repair an old wooden house on your own than to demolish it and build a new one. If you have such a house and would like to bring it into its proper form, we will tell you how to do it. The main thing is to pay attention to the general condition of the building, that is, to assess the prospects of work. If you are sure that the house can still serve, feel free to start making repairs with your own hands.
First of all, you should evaluate the degree of wear and tear of existing components of the house. Take a close look at the foundation, walls, roofing and communications. Do-it-yourself repair of an old wooden house begins with the preparation of the material, and its volume directly depends on the state of the building.
Completely free the house from all unnecessary things, debris and components that are actually not related to the structure. Look closely at the wooden parts for signs of decay - these should be removed immediately. Most often, in old wooden houses, the floor comes into complete disrepair - it must be dismantled.
Pay attention to the foundation. As a rule, solid concrete fill lasts a very long time, but in some places it can break off. This requires a small cosmetic repair - using the prepared solution, simply cover up the visible imperfections, leveling the entire foundation. If the foundation of the house has fallen into disrepair (there are many large cracks around the perimeter, corrosion of the reinforcement, a significant skew of the horizontal level of the foundation), repairs will not be enough. A complete renovation is required here.
Communications should be taken care of in advance, as you may want to sheathe the walls with plasterboard or other covering. So, completely dismantle the existing electrical wiring and plumbing pipes. When laying a new electrical network, be sure to wrap the wires in special tubes with a cross section of 15-20 mm. For plumbing, it is better to use plastic pipes.
Do-it-yourself repair of a wooden house, a photo of the process of which we are attaching, we will start from the walls. The logs of the crown are the most vulnerable place. Here, cracks and other damage are most often formed. The floor beams and the floor itself may also suffer (as already noted, it is better to dismantle it immediately).
Minor damage to the wood can be repaired without dismantling the walls. For this, problem areas should be cleaned, treated with an antiseptic, and then sealed with a suitable sealant. If we talk about the outside of the facade, then for cosmetic purposes, you can sheathe it with special panels of your choice. Siding is most often used, and it is mounted as follows:
The inner side of the walls can be sheathed with plasterboard. Plasterboard installation is carried out in a similar way.
Pay attention to the beams above window and doorways - they very often suffer from moisture. Places that have rotted must be replaced - this can be done simply by cutting out a piece of the beam and inserting a new part.
It is recommended not to neglect the treatment of the wall, even if you plan to sheathe it. Dirt and microorganisms can accumulate in places of damage, which will lead to the destruction of the wood.
If the house is quite old, you will most likely need to completely remove the roof covering. Inspect the frame, especially the condition of the rafters. The roof is easy to repair - any part can be replaced. To do this, use additional strength clamps - for a while, connect the existing beams (which you will not dismantle), nailing several boards between them. After that, you can remove low-quality rafters without fear of destroying the frame.
Take a close look at the main detail of the roof - the Mauerlat. If signs of decay are found, be sure to saw out the damaged parts and insert new ones with secure fixation with plate pads or tie bolts. Ideally, the Mauerlat can be completely replaced by carefully dismantling its parts around the perimeter and installing new ones.
After repairing the roof frame, re-lay the covering. If desired, the roof can be additionally insulated using, for example, mineral wool.
Doors and windows in older homes will likely need to be completely replaced. But the main problem lies not in this, but in rather frequent cases of imbalance. To get rid of the skew, dismantle the door frame and level the walls using a level.
Reassemble and reinstall the door frame. All existing cracks must be blown out tightly with polyurethane foam. As for the doors, choose their model as you wish, but it is recommended to replace the windows with metal-plastic ones, since they are more durable and reliable than wooden ones, not to mention the thermal insulation properties.
Interior doors also need to be replaced in the same way along with the frames. If you have all the doors of the same format and size, then you can immediately prepare the required number of boards for the frame panels. But do not rush to install them inside the house, as you will still be doing floor repairs and finishing. You can install interior doors at the last stage of renovation work.
For a high-quality floor, it is recommended to make a concrete screed. If you don't have one, get to work. First of all, dismantle the logs on the floor (you do not need to cut them under the walls) and clean the area from debris and dust. The screed is laid in the following order: backfill (sand, fine gravel), insulating film, concrete layer. Be sure to level the screed. The concrete should dry for about one month at a temperature of about 20 degrees.
Then you can start laying the floor. This can be, for example, a laminate. For laying, a special substrate is first used, after which laminate sheets are laid on it, interconnected with "locks". An expansion gap of about 1 cm should be left near the walls, which is hidden by the baseboard.
If you don't want to screed, you can use planks to make the floor. In this case, the boards are simply nailed to the logs and sanded from above with a special machine. It is recommended to provide moisture insulation for such a floor by pouring a layer of expanded clay under the logs (if the logs are located on the ground).
The last stage of repairing wooden houses with your own hands, the video of which you can watch at the end of the article, is finishing work. If you've used drywall for the walls, be sure to putty and flatten it for wallpapering or painting.
A wooden floor made of boards should be treated with a special varnish and allowed to dry well. A similar procedure should be carried out with other wood materials that are in open areas.
VIDEO
The wife's parents live in the village, in an old house, there are no conditions, they burned the stove with coal, water in a common well, a toilet on the street.
But here they were supplied with gas, which means we will live, but we want to live well, so we are building.
Brick part of a pre-war building, a merchant's house. During the Second World War, it was hit by an aerial bomb, the walls stood one and a half meters wide (between the left two windows, a brick subsidence is visible). The right extension was made after the war by the wife's grandfather.
The slate has already been removed from this side of the house.
It can be seen that there was nothing with the materials at that time, the rafters were round timber, the crate made of twigs, it was covered with chips, then where the leak was plugged with metal, then covered with slate.
The view from the yard, the sloping roof is a barn for cattle and coal.
We will demolish the extensions after installing the roof.
It becomes scary how to live here, and what to do with it.
There is no roof, we live on the street, just not to rain.
We have a lot of assistants here, the six of us have to do it over the weekend.
We fill the upper crown with concrete, the bomb has done things, we need to strengthen it.
It can be seen that the insulation of the ceiling is straw.
We make strapping on the theodolite.
And at night it floods us, there are naturally holes in the film, water in the house, we drain it.
Clouds go around and make us nervous.
We do it in parts so that everything is not flooded.
Now you can take your time.
That's it, the roof is ready, the helpers are given water, they can rest themselves, burn the garbage, they are preparing to build an extension instead of the sheds in the back.
We move chickens, eat eggs.
We are starting to build an extension.
Here sleepers are like dung in Central Asia, everything is built from it.
We get such a long carriage, 16m in length.
We start finishing, partitions for the toilet, shower, pantry, kitchen, hallway.
Finally, the white friend is installed.
The sleepers are covered with liquid glass and covered with foil, we don't need a smell.
Water and sewerage, as they say, is a topic for a separate post. A well was dug in 12 concrete rings, automatic equipment was installed, now as central water.
The sewerage system was dug immediately after the installation of the roof, 3 rings for the sedimentation tank of solid masses and 3 rings for water drainage.
Drywall and pipes. Warm floor.
And after a few months of finishing on weekends, and we worked after the roof without helpers, we get a house better than in an apartment building.
Yes, Ikea again (they drove me to Moscow again behind the sink).
This is how it looked before the renovation. Rotten wooden frames, closed from the outside with a double film, from cold and wind. To the left is an old veranda with a drooping porch canopy.
For those who have to make repairs in their home, it appears.
These were the windows and sills.
They began to put the house in order from the foundation.
One by one, we open the corners of the house, remove the rotten logs of the crowns using a chainsaw, put the formwork, put large stones and rubble, lay the reinforcement so that its ends remain open (for later fastening it to the pouring foundation), we wrap the log of the crown with roofing paper and fill it with concrete. ready-made curbstone.
And so all four corners of the house and its middle, along the perimeter. In total - 8 pedestals. The process is time consuming, difficult, but the result is worth it. When the curbstones were finished, we made a mound around the entire perimeter. The continuation of the outdoor work was postponed until the following summer. And we took up the interior renovation of the house.
This is a large room and let's start with it. Before the renovation, it looked like this:
This is her right corner. and this, in the photo below, is the left corner. As I write a thread, I'll stick to these two angles.
First, all layers of the old wallpaper were completely torn off. The windows were still old, but we were already waiting for the masters to install plastic windows.
The old stove was dismantled. and the stove-maker folded a new one.
Installation of plastic windows. the further, the more terrible, but the result is important.
AND THE RESULT DIDN'T MAKE YOURSELF WAIT LONG. I decided to close one window completely and make one big one - there will be a dining room.
After installing the windows, the men began to dismantle the old floor, level the logs and put brick cabinets under them.
Then the floors were laid with old boards (they will serve for a very long time, since they are thick and dry), and in places where there were rotten ones, they were replaced with new boards.
And then my "female work" has already begun, I insulated the walls with penofol,
Installed a metal frame for walls and ceilings. my mistake was that first you need to do the ceiling, and then the walls, and not vice versa. I found the technique for performing these works on the Internet, I will not dwell on it in detail. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer ,what do I know.
It is much more difficult to fix the frame on the ceiling, the neck hurts.
When the metal frame is completely ready, you can sew gypsum boards to it, preferably in a checkerboard pattern, starting from the ceiling! Do not forget to scatter the electrical wiring and hide it in the gafrochannel, behind the profile, and install the distributor boxes in a place convenient for you.
In this photo you can see wooden blocks, I screwed them on for the subsequent fixing of bookshelves. Exactly the same, only thinner, I fix them under the ceiling above the windows (for fixing the cornices).
When all the walls and ceiling are sheathed with gypsum board, we putty with a spatula and align all the joints between the sheets and the places where the screws are screwed in with this composition.
At the corners and seams, we lay a reinforced mesh for the strength of the joints, and after everything is dry, we sand it, apply a primer to the walls and ceiling.
And now the most interesting moment is wallpapering. I took vinyl white for the ceiling and with delicate roses on the walls.
When the wallpaper is dry, I by mutual agreement
invited a team of craftsmen to finish their work in this room on the windows (slopes and window sills).
After that, I glued the ceiling plinth, hung the shelves on the wall, put my flowers on the windowsills, which the guys from the company had already installed for us.
The carpenter helped put the interior door, only then I found out that it was standing upside down. (what a difference!) if only it functions normally.
I pasted the doorways with a white corner on a liquid nail. On the right side, the stove is new, heats all the rooms at once.
The firebox itself is in the bathroom.
I put a substrate on the rough floor, then fiberboard and linoleum. Then she screwed the floor plinths with self-tapping screws and voila-beauty.
This is the big room.
Some of you wanted to see more details about concrete pedestals, so I added details. So, a layer of windows was inserted, the house was sheathed with flat slate from the outside, and a mound was made around the house, until next summer.
Now let's continue about outdoor work, after the cold winter and spring. next summer.
When all the pedestals are ready, gradually, opening each side of the house from the blockage, we remove the rotten logs of the lower crown, dry them with waterproofing,
we install the formwork, lay the reinforcement, connecting it to the ends of the reinforcement of the corner pedestals and fill it with concrete.
We do this together with a man, under my strict guidance.
We make brickwork on the finished foundation.
And as expected, the blind area has been made. not quite ordinary.
This is all about outdoor work, home renovation. If you have any questions, ask, with pleasure that I know, I will answer. And for everyone who is interested, the continuation of the internal renovation awaits - the dining room!
Thank you for your time. Your LYUDMILA.
Wooden houses are comfortable and ecological housing. However, over time and under the influence of the climate, such houses can deteriorate, decay, and the tree can rot. In this case, timely overhaul of a wooden house from the outside and from the inside is necessary. Despite the considerable financial and labor costs, all costs will pay off by the fact that the house will stand for more than a decade.
Initially, it is necessary to plan all the work, assess the degree of damage and determine the scale of work, the required costs and timing.
If a complete overhaul of a wooden house is planned, then the sequence of work will look like this:
base repair;
replacement of all communications (sewerage, electrical wiring, water supply, etc.);
dismantling and installation of new windows and doors;
roof renewal;
new decoration of the facade of the building;
analysis of old and installation of new plumbing;
repairs inside the house: bathroom, kitchen, living rooms.
To renovate an old wooden house, you will need the following materials and fixtures:
Column foundation repair.
waterproofing and heat-insulating material;
concrete;
scaffolding;
puncher;
wheelbarrow;
stairs;
Bulgarian;
level;
hammer;
jigsaw;
screwdrivers, fasteners;
tape measure, plumb;
chisel;
pliers;
hacksaws for wood and metal;
cord;
square;
spatulas.
In the process of work, it is often necessary to change individual logs in the structure. To do this, rotten logs are carefully removed from the general structure, and new ones are inserted in their place, while it is necessary to immediately protect them with roofing material.
Cracks can also create a lot of problems, they can grow, moisture accumulating in them and microorganisms lead to rotting of the tree.
It is best to seal them up: clean, cover with an antiseptic, then apply a sealing compound. So, the cracks will be almost invisible and will not pose a danger to the house.
Quite often, the tree rots under the windows. When repairing, old logs are taken out or cut out. The ridges are fixed to the ends, to which fresh logs of the same thickness are attached. Tow is laid under the tree and treated with protective mixtures.
Replacing the rotten section of the crown of a log wooden house.
It is better to start overhaul of an old wooden house from the foundation. The amount of work depends on the nature of the destruction.If the reinforcement has rotted and the concrete has collapsed, you will have to update the foundation in whole or only part of it. To do this, formwork is installed around the perimeter of the building and concrete is poured. Reinforced concrete and brick structures are reinforced with reinforced concrete, interlocked with anchors. With a point structure, the space between its parts should be filled, so you will achieve its solidity, you can install reinforced concrete clips. This will give the base of the house additional rigidity.
Overhaul involves the replacement of communications, and here you cannot do without the help of professionals. The durability and reliability of their operation will depend on the quality of the installation of the systems. So, by correctly installing the wiring, you will avoid short circuits that can damage your home appliances.
When replacing windows and doors, you can handle some work yourself, and also entrust something to the masters. For example, if you can cope with the installation of doors yourself, then, of course, it is better to entrust the replacement of old windows with plastic ones to the masters.
When installing doors with your own hands, the work will consist of such stages as:
dismantling the old door along with the frame;
installation of a new door frame (if it is made of wood, use screws and dowels, from metal - wide metal pins, they are driven into the walls, screwed to the frame);
processing of foam gaps between the frame and the opening;
plaster;
installation of doors on hinges, which should be lubricated in advance.
The quality of sound and heat insulation will depend on the correct installation.
Repair of the roof system.
First, consider what kind of roof material you want to use. The choice depends on whether the roof is pitched or flat. Flat roofs are usually installed during the construction of outbuildings. Residential buildings are most often equipped with pitched roofs, which can be with or without an attic. The attic can be used as a utility room when replacing a roof. The attic room contributes to the ventilation of the whole house, there is a pipe there, if the house is on stove heating. If the attic is used for household needs (drying, storage of things, etc.), it is advisable to make the roof gable or broken. In any case, the performance properties of the roof must be taken into account. On a one-story house, a high roof will make it look not only more solid, but will also help ensure that precipitation will not linger on the slope for a long time. This will help keep the roof from rotting and leaking.
The procedure for replacing the roof:
dismantling of the old coating, rafters;
replacement of rotten parts;
laying a new coating.
Sound and thermal insulation of the attic space is performed in the following sequence:
put foam or mineral wool in the space between the rafters and the laid covering;
perform cladding (for example, clapboard);
lay on the attic floor a double layer of expanded polystyrene, 50 mm thick, so that the joints of the upper and lower layers do not overlap one another;
in the end, lay the expanded clay backfill, 200 mm thick.
There are 2 types of facades: wet and ventilated. Determine the condition of the exterior walls. When performing work on a wet facade, the old facade should be cleaned of paint and dirt. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out additional manipulations. Please note that unfavorable weather conditions (cold, damp) can affect the quality of work. Therefore, determine for yourself how long it takes you to complete everything.
The next step is the installation of corrugated board. To do this, you will need to restore the anti-salt protection, treat the walls with a bioprotective agent. It is advisable to dry the surface of the walls. Otherwise, the quality of the facade may not be the best.
If the house is not high, you can use galvanized profiles. For buildings with a height of more than 7 m, more reliable steel and aluminum profiles are needed. Purchase special fasteners with metal dowels.If you plan to clad with artificial stone, you need to calculate the height of the building and the load on the load-bearing walls of the entire house.
Siding is very popular when decorating a house. Siding installation is carried out as follows:
Metal brackets are placed over the entire area. Attach a wooden beam with a section of 50x80 mm or an aluminum profile to them. You will have a crate.
Attach the rockwool to the wall surface using long nails with a wide head. Fill the joints with polyurethane foam.
Place a retaining membrane fabric on top of the insulation, it will prevent the insulation material from blowing out of the cells and does not obstruct the penetration of air.
Attach the siding strips to the batten from bottom to top.
It is better to start repairs from non-residential rooms: bathroom, kitchen and bathroom. Considering the high humidity in the premises, the best option would be to lay tiles on the floor, under which pre-install the "warm floor" system and cover it with a thin layer of screed. Wall decoration provides more variety in work. In the bathroom, walls can be tiled with ceramic tiles or plastic panels. Cover the toilet in a similar way, sometimes the upper part of the walls is covered with wallpaper. In the kitchen, tiles, as a rule, are laid in certain areas, near work areas, other places can be pasted over with wallpaper.
If desired, in these rooms you can install a suspended ceiling, make a covering of PVC panels, or simply paint the ceiling. After finishing work, you can install plumbing and furniture.
Choose the scale and type of repair in living rooms yourself.
First, remove all old wallpaper from the walls, process and prepare them carefully before you start pasting with new wallpaper.
There is a large selection of materials for the floor: parquet board, linoleum, etc. If parquet was laid on the floor, sand it and apply a varnish. To insulate living rooms, you can also make a "warm floor".
Having completed all the above measures, the repair can be considered completed. Overhaul of an old wooden house is quite possible to do without the involvement of special powerful equipment. The complexity and duration of the entire repair depends on the state of the structure and the scale of the planned work.
However, there is one circumstance that cannot be attributed to the merits of this material - this is durability. If we compare wood with brick and concrete, then a wooden house is less durable. It is for this reason that all structures of the house should be updated from time to time, not only from the inside, but also from the outside.
If you decide to repair a village house, then you need to start with a thorough and systematic inspection of it. This will allow you to identify the most problematic areas and draw up a plan of necessary actions. Many people today prefer to independently resolve all issues related to the repair, especially in the interior. And there is a certain logic in this. After all, who else, besides the owner who constantly lives in the house, can know all the strengths and weaknesses of his structure.
Sometimes constituting a single whole with its inhabitants, a wooden house gives signals about its shortcomings. This is a creak of floorboards, a crack in the wall, etc. Failure to ventilate can lead to the formation of mold or rot, the appearance of insects inside the tree, etc. The tree can dry out, which is fraught with cracks in walls, frames or partitions.
That is why, having gathered to make repairs to a village house with your own hands, you need to prepare the most complete list of all the work that will need to be done, calculate the building materials and only after that start work.
It should be noted that by performing repair work on your own, you can significantly save money. But you also need to understand that cheaper does not mean better at all.Objectively evaluate the level of your skill, estimate how much work you have to do and only if you think that it is real, feel free to take up the work.
In the opposite situation, it is better to seek professional help. The most important thing is to take measures during the maintenance of proper order in your house, not to start up and prevent the aggravation of the situation and not to delay the repair. Only in this case, you can enjoy the comfort and coziness in a beautiful wooden house, fully adapted for normal living, for many years. Moreover, almost any house in the village is subject to restoration, the main thing is to correctly carry out all the repair work.
DIY village house repair video
VIDEO
If you have a house in the village that needs renovation, do not rush to give it up. We will talk about how to transform an old building, giving it a modern look, as well as endowing your home with comfort and practicality. How does the repair begin? From the roof, of course. It is with this question that we will begin.
First of all, a roof is a single structure, assembled from many elements, which include roofing, battens and trusses. They can have a wide variety of forms, but all of them are subject to basic rules that are inviolably followed when performing all the necessary work .
a - shed;
b - gable;
in - hip;
g - half-hip;
d, f - hipped roof;
h, g - complex, multi-slope;
and - unequal, gable;
k - bulbous-domed;
l - complicated half-hip;
m - four-slope (tent);
n - eight-slope;
o - baptized;
n - tricycle;
p - "cap" four-slope;
c - baptismal barrel;
Explanations of the elements in Figure 1:
Figure 2. Component elements
But the types listed above do not represent the whole variety of options. Structures have a lot of elements that complement and transform them. To carry out repairs to an old village house, you need to have a certain concept about them, see figure 2.
stingray;
skate;
oblique rib;
groove;
eaves overhang;
frontal overhang;
gutter;
drain pipe;
chimney.
For village and other small renovated private houses, attic or gable structures are usually used. Any materials for the roof can be used, depending on the financial condition.
Traditionally, slate or shingles are used. However, remember that when using tiles to repair the roof of a private house, it is necessary to strengthen the rafters so that they are able to withstand the weight of the structure. Roofing steel is sometimes used, but it is good for complex configurations.
If the building is one-story, the middle wall of the private house being renovated serves as the load-bearing one. In this case, it is recommended to use inclined rafters with one edge on the outer wall and the other on the middle wall post.
It is recommended to use nails when connecting rafters, and staples when attaching them to walls.
If the walls of the house are not wooden, then the fastening is carried out according to the scheme:
A metal crutch is driven into the wall of the house.
The rafters are attached to it by wire twisting.
The ends are placed on a bar along the wall.
Be sure to make a break, called a fire break.
The rafters must withstand a constant load and, of course, a temporary one. The constant refers to the mass of the rafters themselves, and the temporary refers to the mass of snow and gusts of wind. The snow load is calculated and is equal to 180 kg per square meter.
Since the structure of the upper and lower chords is ready to withstand a not heavy roof, the trusses are additionally strengthened with internal supports. Farms are needed to create a slope that obeys certain criteria and factors.
Precipitation and their amount. In case of heavy precipitation, the slope angle should be at least 45 °.
Wind load.
View of the roof itself.When using roll materials, the angle should be within 5-25 °, piece - more than 22 °, for tiles - from 25 ° and above;
Note! The higher the slope, the more roofing materials are needed.
If you decide to renovate a village house with your own hands and started it from the roof, you must remember that the hanging truss has rafter legs, and therefore, two points of support. In this case, the truss works in two directions - bending and compression. With this design, the action of the horizontal expansion load is distributed over the walls.
We advise you to pay attention to the section. If it is not enough, you can insert an addition from the lattice, which will significantly increase the rigidity of the structure.
Figure 3 shows the layout of the rafters.
Figure 3. Layouts of rafters
The section itself can be determined by the span width, pitch and roof slope. Normally, the pitch of the rafters should not exceed 120 cm.Cross-section data are given in table 1.
Table 1. Selection of the section of the rafter legs
Experts pay attention to the fact that the installation and slope of the rafters is very important for the roof structure. The walls of the house, both external and internal, can act as supports. The installation diagram of the rafters is shown in Figure 4.
Figure 4. Inclined rafters
The distance that must be left between the rafter legs is 1 m, while the roof slope must be more than 45 °. If the house is located in areas where snow falls frequently and abundantly, then the distance between the rafters is reduced to 0.6 m. All options for the distance between the rafters are presented in table 2.
Table 2. Permissible distance between rafters
On the top of the structure of the rafters themselves, girders are laid, for the manufacture of which logs with a large section are used. They subsequently become the basis of the roof ridge.
VIDEO
To increase the living space, attics are often erected, which are an additional floor instead of an attic. Figure 5 shows various options for attics.
a, b - single-level attic with a gable roof;
c - one-level attic with a sloping roof;
d - single-level attic with outboard consoles;
d - two-level attic with a displaced support spike.
The very idea of using the attic as a living space originated in France in the 17th century. For the attic, trusses of a certain design are used. The main feature is the presence of interfloor overlap. This is due to the fact that the lower belt belongs to the base of the attic floor.
Experts advise using the structures shown in Figure 6 to build the attic.
Figure 6. Mansard structures
triangular trusses;
racks;
strut brace;
frame strut;
runs;
floor beam;
outer wall;
inner wall;
rafters;
crossbar;
lathing.
So, repairing the roof of a private house with your own hands is a complex event that requires the knowledge that we have tried to give you. If you understand the construction of a roof, do it correctly and in accordance with your own preferences, the house will immediately transform and take on a new life.
Video (click to play).
We hope you found our article helpful. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website contains detailed photo and video instructions, in which you will find useful information on this issue.
