DIY repair door slopes

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of door slopes from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

After installing a brand new door, the opening looks unsightly, spoiling the whole impression of the repair. And it's not just beauty - drafts appear in the cracks, unprotected polyurethane foam quickly gains moisture, which sharply increases the heat loss of the entire room. In addition, correctly installed slopes for entrance doors play the role of additional sound insulation. What types of slopes exist, what should be considered when choosing, how to do it yourself?

Outside, a small gap between the opening and the frame can be closed using platbands - special shaped strips, usually included in the door installation kit. However, from the inside of the room, there remains a fairly wide area of open brickwork with layers of concrete mortar, and to ensure the proper level of tightness, it must be finished with not one, but several types of materials - insulating, load-bearing and decorative.

According to the method of installation, there are 3 options for finishing the slopes for entrance doors:

Application of cement mortar directly to the wall and its further plastering. It is considered the most reliable and budgetary method, but also the most time consuming. To lay out perfectly flat surfaces, there must be some experience both in the preparation of the plaster solution and in its application.
Bonding of finishing panels with a suitable adhesive mixture. Finishing door slopes according to this principle is more expensive, while the "wet" installation process is quite long (you need to let each layer dry), but it is quite accessible even for a beginner in the repair business.
Fastening of finishing elements on a pre-assembled frame. The fastest solution to achieve a perfectly flat surface, hide telephone or electrical communications, install lighting equipment in the door block. The downside is the low mechanical strength required to protect the door mounts from burglary.

Video (click to play).

In order for the slopes to withstand temperature changes, especially noticeable if the door leads directly to the street, and not to the corridor or to the staircase, it is advisable to mount a layer of thermal insulation on the wall: it can be mineral wool, polystyrene or its modification - penoizol. If the width of the trap does not allow installing the insulation (according to SNiP, the dimensions of the doorway should be at least 0.8x1.9 m), glue the slopes with sandwich panels.

Frame slopes are irreplaceable when the opening is too wide, and a large volume of cement mixture is required to seal it. They are also chosen when there are damp walls, or there is no time to do finishing work - plastic or wood panels themselves look presentable. In order to fix the thin sheets, the space between them and the walls is filled with polyurethane foam sealant, which also serves as a heat barrier.

In addition to the protective function, the slopes perform the task of decorative design of the opening. To veneer a rough surface, one of the following materials is layered on concrete or drywall:

Recently, designers, trying to include the doorway in the overall interior picture, have been using atypical building materials for its decoration - ceramic tiles, mosaics, natural or artificial stone.

Before finishing the slopes of the entrance door, make sure that it is installed vertically and check the tightness of the installation seams. To do this, run a lighted candle around the entire perimeter of the opening and add sealant in places where the flame has deviated to the side.Do not forget to cover the door leaf and frame with masking tape and cut off the remnants of dried polyurethane foam with a clerical knife. Then remove the old plaster and loose areas of the brickwork.

It is important to thoroughly clean the leveled sections of the wall from construction dust and cover with a deep penetration primer (it will strengthen the base surface and ensure high adhesion of the layers). Pay special attention to the concrete lintel above the door - it should be treated with "Concrete Contact", a special primer for surfaces that do not absorb moisture well.

After the primer has dried (after about 5–8 hours), the most accurate installation of the beacon profiles is required, which is necessary for leveling the plaster of the slopes of the entrance door by the rule:

Use a laser or conventional level on the side wall 3 cm from the door to mark the position of a strictly vertical line.
Drill 6 mm holes along it with a step of 30 cm.
Insert 6x30 mm dowels into the holes and level the caps with twine.
Install the beacon on the clips and once again check the verticality of the installation with a level.

In the same way, position the corner profiles at the top and sides of the doorway so that they are flush with the end walls and the above-door section.

After installing the beacons, you can start preparing the cement-sand mixture. The simplest and cheapest option is to use quarry or river sand and cement of the M-150 or M-200 brand as basic ingredients. To get the right consistency, follow a specific sequence:

Sift the building materials through a 3x3 mm or 5x5 mm sieve.
In a previously prepared container, mix 3 parts of sand with 1 part of cement.
Little by little, start adding clean, settled water to the dry mixture and at the same time knead the solution with a trowel or a special nozzle of an electric drill.

As soon as the mixture begins to envelop the instrument, like a dough, the solution is ready to use. Use a trowel or spatula to forcefully throw it onto the wall, trying to completely cover the profiles. After passing a small area, attach the rule to the beacons and smooth the plaster with them. This way you will achieve a perfectly flat surface.

Adhesive finishing of the entrance door slopes with laminate, plasterboard, sandwich panels or a thin MDF sheet does not require smoothing the surface. It is important that the base is vertically aligned and free from obvious defects. In this case, a slight blockage of the side wall can be corrected with a layer of plaster with a thickness of 8–10 mm. If you are lucky and the original surface is level, the task is extremely simplified and reduced to a minimum of actions:

Thoroughly prime the base on which the panels will be mounted.
Measure the dimensions of the slopes, mark them on the building material, recheck the marks with a tape measure and a square.
Using an electric jigsaw, cut the sheet into the required number of fragments (you can install laminate and MDF vertically, with one lamella on one slope, or horizontally - by a set of small pieces of lamellae from bottom to top).
Apply glue to the prepared part using the square-nesting method with a pitch of 15–20 cm with spots approximately the size of a Soviet penny.
Let the glue spot dry - a film should appear on its surface.
Apply the element to the desired place, align it with a small amplitude and pointwise, starting from the upper edge, press the panel firmly against the wall with your palms.

You can choose liquid nails, for example, Titebond or "Instant grip" ("Moment") as the building and assembly mixture. Polyurethane adhesive PUR 501 (Kleiberit) and even polyurethane foam are also suitable. However, when using the latter, you need to be careful: if you apply it in large quantities to the material, the finishing details may shift during further polymerization.

In the event that the inner surface of the slope is severely damaged, there is no other way out but to level the doorway with plaster (see the step-by-step description of this process in the previous section), and only then proceed to the above algorithm. After complete drying, it is the turn of the installation on the outer corners of the painting profile and final processing.

The heavier the front door, the more likely the slopes will be overloaded. For example, after installing an iron door, finishing the doorway with plaster can threaten it with cracking already in the first year of operation. Therefore, the frame method is optimal when the need arises:

prevention of surface deformation;
installation of heavy MDF sheet (more than 4 mm thick);
elimination of excess space around openings.

This option is also suitable for installing slopes in the bathroom or in other rooms where moisture regularly penetrates into the walls, and it is not recommended to glue the finishing sheets directly, especially if it is laminate or drywall. The simplest solution is to use for the supporting base an aluminum profile for the construction of walls and ceilings made of plasterboard or wooden slats of suitable thickness, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic.

The scheme for preparing the walls of the opening and erecting the frame base looks like this:

Clean the walls of debris and check for cracks and crevices.
Repair the surface with a cement mortar if necessary.
After the plaster mixture has dried, treat it with an antiseptic primer.
Set the extreme beam or profile according to the level and fix it with dowel-nails with plastic sleeves.
Install the second post parallel to the first element and rigidly attach it to the capital base.
Fit parallel posts around the entire perimeter of the entrance door opening.
Reinforce the structure with longitudinal bridges connecting both parts of the skin.

Next, pass the communication cables through the upper part of the structure and lay insulation in the cells. After that, make the slats exactly in size and install them on the "liquid nails", making sure that the gaps between them are minimal. Reinforce the fastening with self-tapping screws, hiding their caps under the decorative caps, and carefully fill the gaps between the parts with transparent sealant or tinted putty.

Video: How to make a slope on the front door from MDF with your own hands

As can be seen from the result of the work on the video, door slopes made of MDF do not need to be additionally trimmed with your own hands - the material looks good on them anyway. This applies to laminated and plastic surfaces: the finishing operation for them is the installation of platbands and masking the joints with furniture stickers or mastic matched to the tone.

A roughly plastered doorway needs to be refined with paint, decorative plaster or wallpaper. Before painting, the slope must be covered with two layers of putty - starting, designed to eliminate the main irregularities, and finishing, necessary to obtain a smooth surface. The next step after the filler is to apply a primer and two layers of paint - water-based or acrylic.

Due to the routine of the process, wallpapering is often abandoned, even with the right amount of finishing material available. However, you can handle the process fairly easily if you keep some secrets in mind:

glue the surfaces not immediately after installing the slopes on the front door, but simultaneously with the entire hallway;
for finishing the space around the door, choose wallpaper without a pattern;
calculate the position of the canvas so that it covers the entire width of the slope;
cut off the excess of the canvas, taking into account its overlap beyond the corner line to the adjacent plane.

Before sealing the opening above the door, cut a piece from the roll that is long enough to turn onto the slope.Glue the wallpaper to the wall, remove any irregularities, and you can enjoy the result of your own hand-made work.

Video: how to stick wallpaper on a door slopeIn the above technologies, far from all the nuances are shown - in each specific case, a sober assessment of many factors is needed that affect the choice of materials and structures. To surely protect yourself from mistakes and, together with replacing the front door, bring the slopes into proper form, involve professionals in the reconstruction - they will take the burden of these far from easy troubles from you.After installing a new iron front door in the apartment, all the pleasant impression about it can immediately disappear if you do not make the slopes from the inside of the apartment. Only they can say about the fully completed stage of repair work.To make them perfect, specialists are most often invited. On the other hand, you can do them yourself, if you have previously studied all the tips and tricks.Slopes are a small section of the wall around the door frame (outside and inside it).In recent years, their arrangement has become a must, because they not only decorate the overall appearance of the door space, but also serve as the beginning of the overall design of the corridor or a room.Having chosen the right material, we can safely say that success awaits you in the process of finishing the slopes. If you are a beginner builder or do not have a lot of time and money, do not tackle methods that require really significant skills and experience.In order not to be mistaken, you need to know about what materials suitable for creating a beautiful space around the front door.MDF panels are a popular material that is perfect for these purposes. As a result variety of colors, panels can be used to trim slopes in almost any interior.Installation takes place using ordinary or liquid nails, as well as self-tapping screws, corners or platbands are superimposed around the perimeter.Among the positive properties, the following should be noted:

able to withstand impacts and damage of small force;

have an attractive appearance;

easily assembled by one person, do not require professional help;

resemble various types of wood, which makes the appearance of the slopes visually expensive and refined;

have good noise insulation properties.

The disadvantages of the panels are that they cannot withstand scratches and strong impacts, and also can change their appearance and structure, if installed in rooms with high humidity (for example, baths and saunas).In addition, being exposed to various pollution, require careful care, otherwise it will be almost impossible to wash them.Stone look decorative tiles attached to a special solution. In the interior decoration with decorative tiles looks interesting and expensive.
Image - DIY repair door slopes

The benefits include:

has a lower cost than natural stone;
is lightweight;
does not require special care;
thanks to a wide range of colors, it is able to imitate the appearance of any stone;
able to withstand significant temperature fluctuations;
resistant to moisture.

The main the disadvantage is the fragility of the material. In rare cases, the size of the opening will coincide with the size of the tile, so its installation almost always requires the ability to correctly and accurately cut the tile in order to avoid cracking it.

Choosing a heavy tile, there is a possibility that it will lag behind on the upper part of the slope, creating a danger for human life and health.

Another option for finishing door slopes is laminate, material has the following advantages:

good indicative strength;
the shelf life can be up to 15 years;
a rich choice of colors allows you to choose the right one for each specific room;
have excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
easy to wash and clean from various contaminants;
decorative elements can be easily attached to them (using ordinary glue).

Among the shortcomings, it can be noted that this type of finishing material poorly resistant to moisture and temperature drops. As a result, it can change its appearance and initial technical characteristics over time.

If you plan to install the laminate on the frame, then you need to be prepared for the fact that the doorway will become smaller.

You may be interested in learning about plastic panels for walls, their types and sizes. Read this article.

Plastic trim works well for a doorway just because you do not need to spend a lot of money to purchase it, it is lightweight, can imitate various textures and materials, and is also easy to clean.

Of the shortcomings, it can be noted - its fragility, because even with the slightest influence and exertion of effort, it simply deforms and breaks.

Decorative stone is a material with a huge number of positive properties. Decorating with decorative stone quite expensive compared to other materials, but also looks more luxurious in the interior, as shown in the photo.

Advantages:

completely environmentally friendly material;
installation does not require a perfectly flat surface;
perfectly withstand high temperatures, a large amount of moisture;
unlike natural stone, it has a significantly lower weight;
wonderful appearance, variety of textures allows you to please the tastes and requirements of any customer;
can be mounted in a doorway of any shape and size;
does not burn, retains heat well in the room;
washes well and does not absorb foreign odors.

Of the minuses of decorative stone, it is only known that it is not recommended to use it for exterior door decorationthat immediately go out into the street.

Under the influence of very low temperatures in severe frosts, the material may be slightly destroyed.

Plaster is often used to create doorways. This is one of the economical finishing options, with the help of plaster, if necessary, you can not only repair the slopes, but also level them.

It has the following advantages:

perfectly insulates living space;
well cleaned of dirt;
has high strength;
thanks to various methods of application to the surface, you can give the slopes a unique appearance;
long shelf life.

Many do not want to plaster the slopes due to the fact that during construction work there will be a lot of dust and dirt in the room, as well as the drying process of the plaster can vary from 3 to 5 days.

Drywall is a very popular material in the creation of door slopes, due to its properties and accessibility, any person who has no qualifications and experience can sheathe the slopes with this material.

It has the following positive qualities:

low cost;
made from environmentally friendly materials;
does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere, therefore it is safe for health;
has high strength;
long service life;
due to its technical characteristics, it can be mounted in doorways of any shape;
perfectly retains heat;
has high sound insulation properties.

Of the minuses, only low ability to resist moisture, however, there is a way out of this problem - you just need to purchase moisture-resistant models.

Vinyl is great for openings that have a non-standard size. It can withstand high and low temperatures, easy to install and maintain.

Due to its appearance and shape, vinyl slopes do not need additional decoration around the perimeter of the doorway.

Of the negative properties of vinyl, it should be noted that it is made of materials, capable of emitting harmful substances into the atmosphere... Those models for which you need to pay a high cost will be really durable and of high quality.

You can make plasterboard slopes pretty quickly if, first of all, prepare all the necessary tools... For work, you will need a clerical knife, a long ruler or flat rail, a tape measure, a level, a pencil, a drill, a screwdriver, a puncher, a spatula and a hammer.

Before carrying out construction work, you need to check that the base of the wall is at a sufficient distance from the edge of the door slope. This is necessary in order to the future drywall surface did not go beyond its limits.

Do you know how to make an interior arch with your own hands? All information in this article.

The main stages of plasterboard installation:

This video shows step by step how to do the trimming of the slopes with your own hands.

Slope design - an important stage in the entire work of creating a doorway. You need to start it by creating corners on drywall using putty.This should be done in the following way:

Using a spatula, apply a small layer of putty to the corner.

After waiting for it to dry completely, we apply a serpyanka, which is covered with another layer of putty.

When the second layer is completely dry, a finishing putty is thinly applied to the corners. In this case, it is necessary to avoid any irregularities.

If you plan to paint such slopes, then the entire surface of the drywall must also be plastered twice. In the event that wallpaper is to complete the repair work, the sheets may not be additionally processed.Creating beautiful door slopes is not a very difficult job that any man can do, without resorting to outside help. The main thing in this case is to first study all the necessary recommendations, consult with a specialist and purchase those materials that will be simple and easy to work with.Installing a new door is a joyous occasion for every owner. However, the work is not limited to just installing the box and the canvas - in the end, it is imperative to arrange the slopes so that the structure looks beautiful and organic.DIY door slopesTo carry out this activity, of course, you can invite a specialist. However, does it make sense to overpay for the services of a third-party master, if such a simple work can be done on your own?For the design of slopes (do-it-yourself plastic slopes - article), materials such as plaster, PVC-based panels, drywall and MDF panels are most often used. Explore the guides presented, choose the design option that suits your case, and get to work.Contents of step-by-step instructions:Most likely it will be useful for you to read about plastering slopes with your own hands.First step. Seal all the gaps between the base and the door frame with polyurethane foam. Let the foam set and carefully trim off any excess blowing with a sharp knife. Gently sand any irregularities with sandpaper.Second step. Proceed with surface treatment for future finishes. Apply a coat of primer to ensure better adhesion of the plaster to the surface.The primer usually has to be applied in several layers. Focus on the situation - as a result, you need to get a perfectly flat and smooth surface. Apply a new layer of primer only after the previous leveling layer has completely dried.Step three. Start plastering. Buy ready-made facade plaster or prepare a solution yourself from a lime mixture, clean fine sand and cement. Image - DIY repair door slopes

Lay the mixture in a thick layer

Start plastering from the top door jamb. Lay the mixture in a thick layer. Level and remove excess filler with a wooden batten.

Level and remove excess filler with a wooden batten

For additional reinforcement of the outer corners, fit the perforated corner profile. It must be pressed a little into the still damp plaster mixture.

Let the starter coat dry completely and apply a finishing coat of the plaster mixture. It should be more subtle. The main task of this layer is reduced to leveling small irregularities. Wait until the finishing plaster is completely dry. Simple door slopes are ready.

Plastering technology for door slopes

Plastering is the most budget-friendly option for decorating slopes. Whether to give preference to this method or choose some other way of finishing - each owner has the right to decide for himself.

Beautiful and inexpensive slopes can be made from plastic panels. First, the frame is prepared, and then the finishing is performed directly.For the frame, prepare a timber with a section of 2x4 cm. Plastic panels will be attached to the frame.Saw the timber into blanks according to the dimensions of the future slopes. Secure 4 perpendicular planks to each wall portion of the doorway. Attach 3 strips to the top. Use nails to fix the elements.The finishing panels should be slightly wider than the surfaces to be decorated with them. The trim elements will need to be bent so that they beautifully "beat" the corners.From the end, the plastic panels have a hollow structure. Regular voids are present along the length of the elements. To shape the panel into the desired shape, make appropriate cuts along the voids mentioned. An ordinary stationery knife will help you with this.If desired, even the columns can be trimmed with plastic panels, so there will definitely not be any problems with finishing the corners of the slopes. The joints will be barely noticeable.Make the cuts only on the back of the trim elements.Attach the cut modules to the frame. For fixing, you can use screws or small nails. Fix the bent elements to the wall surface. Work in this order:

define the border of the trim element;

make five holes in the wall so that in the future they will be covered by the edge of the panel;

drive wooden plugs into the prepared recesses;

screw the panel to the wooden plugs using self-tapping screws (nail it in).

Install all panels according to this algorithm.

Perfect door slopes can be made from drywall.

Plasterboard door slopes

Fourth step. Mark strips of the required size on a sheet of drywall. Cut the drywall according to the markings.

It is very important to follow the cutting technique. Otherwise, the cut edges will be ugly.

To cut, attach a long, even object, such as a piece of a fixing profile, to the scribe line. Cut through the top layer of the paper. Gently tapping the cut strip from the back of the sheet, break through the plaster, and then cut through the second paper layer.

Fifth step. Prepare the glue mixture. Follow the instructions specific to your adhesive.

Sixth step. Apply a homogeneous adhesive mass to the back of the drywall strips. Also, you need to glue the pre-mounted dowels with glue.

Seventh step. Proceed directly to the finish. Guide the edge of the strip into the starting guide. Align the trim and then press it against the base. Secure the side slopes in the same way. Remove excess glue immediately, otherwise in the future it will lead to deformation of the drywall.

Installation of construction beacons

The slopes must be supported with spacers while the glue dries.

The gaps between the base and the drywall can be filled with removed excess glue.

Allow the slopes to dry for 12-24 hours and you can start finishing: putty, painting or other finishing of your choice.

Such slopes will serve for many years without any complaints.

Beautiful door slopes can be made from MDF.

First step. Prepare the foundation for future door slopes. To do this, treat the base with a simple lime-cement mixture. Let the mixture dry and apply a primer over it.

Second step. Cut the MDF into three slopes of the required dimensions. Before starting cutting, carefully measure the angles of the joining of the sides of the opening. Next, you need to cut the ends of the trim pieces according to the measured angles.

Before proceeding with the installation of the panels, make sure that the joints are correct. To do this, attach the elements to be connected to each other. Try not to have any gaps - they will ruin the appearance of the finish.

Step three. Apply the required amount of adhesive mixture to the top of the doorway. Press the appropriate trim piece onto the adhesive and support it until the adhesive is completely dry. Fix the side elements in the same way.

For the best possible fixing of the elements, place spacers between them.

Hide the gaps between the base and the fixed slopes with plastic corners. Use liquid nails or other suitable glue to secure the corners.

Try to choose panels for the manufacture of slopes, the appearance of which would be as close as possible to the appearance of the door leaf. This finish will look as holistic and beautiful as possible.

Thus, a wide variety of materials can be used to equip door slopes. Choose the appropriate option, follow the instructions provided, and you can cope with the tasks as well as any specialist.

Boring door slopes are a thing of the past - now the variety of finishes is off the charts! What interior designers do not come up with, and what kind of experiments customers do not agree to. An overview of the best ideas and how to implement them is ready for viewing.Most of the companies responsible for door delivery and installation only care about the outside of the issue. It is understandable - you can install doors and decorate the front side with platbands in one evening, but with slopes from the side of the apartment you need to mess around much longer. However, this is the positive side of the issue - you can make and arrange the slopes yourself as your heart desires. Image - DIY repair door slopes

In the modern art of interior design, door slopes have long lost their role as the standard space around the opening. Now they can become the hallmark of your home, because it is their guest who meets at the entrance. But first, let's refresh our memory that, according to building codes, slopes should be represented, and what functions they should perform.

So, the slopes are the end part of the walls surrounding the door frame, if any, or the constituent parts of the opening in the wall when the door is not installed, for example, in the interior passage. The main functions of this architectural element are: to protect the door mountings from burglars, to strengthen the door and walls, and to ennoble the entire doorway that was crafted by the craftsmen during the installation of the doors.

However, modern designers look at things from a different angle - slopes can be, if not the central design element, then one of the main ones.The design of the entire room can depend on this element, with its help you can visually improve the space, bring harmony to disproportions.

The modern installation of door slopes is similar to a multi-layer pie - the base is hidden behind the decorative layer, under the main one there can be insulation, sound insulation, vapor barrier, vibration protection, lathing, and only under it there will be a brick or foam block. The doorway is no exception - do not forget that in addition to external beauty, we must take care of the protective function.The easiest and fastest finishing option is to install sheet material slopes on the door, with which the crate is sheathed or glued to the rough surface. Image - DIY repair door slopes

However, this option is best used when arranging interior openings, where security issues are not so acute. If you have to decorate the slopes on metal doors, or increase moisture and thermal insulation, the best option would be to plaster the slopes.

However, this is only one layer of the "cake", aside from the obligatory primer.

Warming is a desirable but not required layer. Most often it is made of polystyrene (in the case of plastering) or mineral wool (lathing and plasterboard sheathing).
Reinforcement - at a minimum, is the installation of reinforcing corners over the outer slope corners. The corners have a special perforation, with the help of which they reliably "cling" to the layer of putty.
Putty - finishing, leveling layer. In some cases, it may be absent, if further finishing with durable materials will follow.
Decorative layer - can be made from a wide variety of materials. The easiest way is to apply a layer of paint, complex options are not limited by anything except the imagination of the customer and the designer. In each case, the method of attaching decorative elements may differ.

How to make original door slopes at no extra cost? Even the simplest option - painting - can be turned into a fun way to finish. Alternatively, you can apply two layers of paint: the background layer is applied with a regular roller, and when it dries, a second layer of lighter or darker paint is applied with a textured tool. You can buy one or make it yourself - just wrap a standard paint roller with a piece of suede, so that the material forms waves, bends, depressions, in a word, texture.Before making door slopes, evaluate, the happy owner of what materials or decorative elements you already have, perhaps this will push you to a fresh idea... It is simply impossible to list all the options - designers in different parts of the world come up with a wide variety of finishing methods. Surely, somewhere they are already experimenting with 3D slopes or coming up with how to use the free area. Indeed, why not arrange small niches, bookshelves or hiding places in the interior slopes? So do not limit yourself in imagination!

We plaster the slopes with our own hands: if the technology is followed, everything will work out

Plastering slopes for the door can be made using different compositions:

Cement-sand mortar (CPM). For 1 part of cement, take 3-4 parts of sand and dilute with water (less than a part) to a state of thick sour cream.
For faster "setting" of the mortar and increase its plasticity, you can add a little alabaster or other similar additive to the cement-sand mortar.
Special mixtures for plaster type (Rotband) and MP 75 from Knauf.

These compounds can be used for plastering door slopes.

What kind of plaster is better to plaster the slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. What is preferable for you is up to you.

Slope plastering begins after the surface of the main walls has been leveled. The work to be done is dirty, therefore it is advisable to close the door leaf, floor and door frame with a film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

The first stage of work is surface preparation. First, remove poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, and other building material. If the doors have been changed, the old plaster can stick out a lot. In this case, even if she holds up well, she is knocked down.

If the old plaster sticks out strongly, it is chipped

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Old paint is also peeled off: the plaster does not adhere well to it. After - dust and dirt are cleaned off.

If the cracks were not foamed when installing the door, you will need to do it now. Polyurethane foam is applied to the wetted surface in volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), cut off the excess with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with an ordinary stationery for paper.

Do-it-yourself installation of door slopes begins with sealing the gaps between the door frame and the wall

If the plastering will be a cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray bottle or with a brush or roller.

Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, to obtain an even and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Once well secured, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, since during work this edge for some reason always bulges up and causes a lot of inconvenience.

There are several ways to fix the corner:

Gently apply the mortar to the inside of the corner, then press it against the corner. It is necessary to apply the solution carefully: the walls are made very thin and even from a small mass it breaks. Therefore, it is better to use the second method.
The solution is applied to the corner, and the corner is pressed into it.

Too much solution should not be, but voids too

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take an even bar (you can use a building level or a rule), apply it to the corner, checking how even the corner is exposed. Check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by sliding your finger along the junction.

There is another way of attaching the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but when plastering it is not used: the hats get in the way.

When plastering door slopes, it is convenient to use a template

The second guide is the doorframe. When installing the doors, they were exposed exactly, so this is a good reference point. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled.It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: both the edge is smooth, and it slides well, and quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wood plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess mortar should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove the excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

Slope plastering can be carried out along the guides

In this video lesson on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, and explanations are given on the technique of applying putty for finishing.

The process of applying plaster to the slope is no different: a solution is poured onto a dust-free and moistened surface. Do it with a wide spatula or a painting bucket - as you are used to. It is more convenient to start from the bottom, moving up.Leading with a rule or pattern along the guides, swinging from side to side, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, it is possible not to achieve a particularly flat surface, but it is imperative to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly. Image - DIY repair door slopes

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is final

Some problems can arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the mortar here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and slightly pressing, applied with a small broach. If the surface is rough, there are usually no problems. They can occur if a concrete beam is installed on top. To such a surface, mortar, especially cement-sandy, "sticks" badly. In this case, you need to pre-soak it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) with finishing materials.

Processing may also be required if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker bricks, for example). Only in this case, the primer should further reduce moisture absorption. The second way out is to use special Knauf compounds - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile glue to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive adheres remarkably to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as an excellent base.

If all this seems very difficult to you, read the article on how to make slopes from MDF. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortar or spatula needed and the result is great. Or you can make plasterboard slopes. The view is almost the same, but to do faster. After installing plastic windows, you can make plastic slopes.

After a while, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled by applying a second finishing layer. Too early to start leveling it is impossible - the solution "floats", loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not float.

For a fine leveling, the mortar is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is flat. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.

Secrets of smooth plaster: pull the rule not evenly, but in zigzags

This stage creates a perfectly flat surface. It is possible to rub the plaster only after the solution has set. For this, at least 16-24 hours must pass (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if grouting can start, take some mortar from the wall with your fingers and rub. If it crumbles, you can work, if it is smeared, we are waiting for more.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface.And it is distributed not with a spatula or a template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this float, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monochromatic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be putty. But this way your do-it-yourself plaster of slopes takes on a finished look. But once again, this is not necessary.

This video describes how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

If the slope is painted further, the putty is aligned perfectly. For this, two layers are applied: starting and finishing. The starting putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer up to 1 cm. With its help, all flaws that are difficult to remove with cement mortar are eliminated. After the finishing putty dries, all irregularities and protrusions are sanded with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for gluing wallpaper. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.If, when installing the door, the old slopes were slightly damaged and they can simply be restored, there will be less work. You only need to throw a solution into the cavity and level it with a long trowel (spatula).Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but in this case the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and methods of their installation are different.Plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the selection principle is the same).The guides are installed from the sides. These can be boards, metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second on the left, they are fixed. It is most convenient to secure them with clamps. If there are no clamps, powerfully use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired. Image - DIY repair door slopes

To plaster a doorway, two guides are needed, which are installed on both sides

The leading edges of the guides will serve as the base on which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to an ideal state, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, see the video.

Video (click to play).