Very often, equipment begins to malfunction, not for any specific reason, but, for example, with critical voltage drops in the power grid. If a pump breakdown is observed, it is advisable to check the voltage. Normally it should be 220-240V. If this indicator is correct, then it is already possible to resolve the issue with the repair.
In order to avoid problems with the winding and, in general, with the operation of the equipment, it is necessary to install a voltage stabilizer, which aligns the plug during operation and all equipment works correctly.
Also, a visually intact and efficient pump may not pump water for the following reasons:
The above problems can be corrected very easily - it is enough either to completely immerse the water intake part in the water or tilt it so that all the air comes out, or it is enough to simply unhook the stuck "frog". In general, it should be noted that all problems must be eliminated in a timely manner and entrust this work to professionals.
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A drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles equipment for the supply of drinking water, but it has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.
Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out if it is possible to repair the drain pump with our own hands, if necessary.
The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large inclusions of sand, organic debris is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.
It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase in order to imagine which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakdown. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - it is enough to study the diagram that is attached to the instructions for connecting and maintaining the device.
Apparatuses for private use in summer cottages do not differ in high power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.
The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The motor is housed inside a robust casing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.
Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid to the inside of the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, pick up water from the outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next - and so on until the mechanism stops.
The float switch regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the level of liquid in a reservoir or natural reservoir, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.
As you can see, the device of the drainage pump is quite simple, and if you have ever disassembled and cleaned a submersible well pump, then you can handle this category of equipment as well. The faecal aggregate, which has an additional unit for crushing too large particles, is slightly different.
The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well that has just been commissioned. The first liquid that has accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay. During the day, it is necessary to pump out the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.
Unlike a submersible pump, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks; it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement when it is flooded. A hose for receiving dirty water is placed at the bottom of the container, the second hose is used to drain the drains.
If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise. The plus is that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).
It is clear that the surface type aggregate differs in its structure. A working shaft and a wheel are fixed inside the metal case, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming products - asynchronous two-pole.
Despite the contamination of the pumping medium, do not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other oil products and chemicals are dissolved.
Both new equipment and those that have served for more than one year can break down. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect made during assembly: a damaged piston or an incorrectly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to inept installation, if:
lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;
allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;
the water inlet is above the water and is not covered with liquid.
These flaws are easy to fix with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.
Most often, problems arise during the operation of the equipment. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are declared in the technical passport of the product). If the equipment is used incorrectly, not for its intended purpose, it simply will not withstand the load.
For example, it is normal for a drainage device to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you start moving clean drinking water (for which borehole and well models are designed). On the contrary, too coarse dirt clogs the filters, as a result of which the pump stops working.
Also, troubles await if the equipment is idle, in "dry" mode - overheating will surely happen, which cannot always be corrected on your own. As a result of an oversight, the matter can end up in expensive service repairs.
Lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause breakdown. Many troubles can be avoided by preventing them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.
There are a number of possibilities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning) can be performed. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.
Available actions include replacing a capacitor, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.
If the cast-iron body is cracked, the valve is out of order, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Inexpensive Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering serious professional repairs is impractical.
The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection break, as a result of which the pump power is cut off.
It is necessary to find the break point and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if a break occurs near the plug - you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the place of work.
A broken cable in the area where the pump is connected will take longer to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection block. Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.
The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or force. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension member, you will be able to see the cable and identify the area of the break. We remove the worn-out piece, mount the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.
The engine is working properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether, or comes in in small, uneven jerks. There may be several reasons for the strange phenomenon:
Part of the supply line is clogged. This is a branch pipe or supply pipe. There is a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than the manufacturer's recommended length, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace parts, to begin with visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.Engine power has noticeably decreased. That can be determined even by the sound. Possible malfunctions in the supply of electricity, failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment.It is necessary to disassemble the case to clarify the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.The most common problem is filter clogging. You can try running some clean water through the pump to clean the sieve and suction port. If this procedure does not help, disassemble the case and clean all chambers, removing pebbles, algae and chips.
When disassembling the unit, be sure to follow the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help to consistently remove parts, quickly find bolt attachment points. In some cases, wear on fasteners or loose nuts will cause parts to move, which will also affect the performance of the machine.
You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Prepare to inspect all equipment. The most common causes of engine failure are:
Disruption to the electricity supply due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of connection to the pump, proceed as described above.The stator winding is out of order. Happens due to dry running. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.Seized bearing ... We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or replace it.The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grate, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.The float switch has broken. To check its performance, you need to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.If the capacitor is out of order, replacement is required. In some models, special access is provided to it, which is a separate hole in the case.
When the pump is switched on to the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it stops spontaneously. Most likely, a protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.
A heating cable may be the cause. It is worth checking the correspondence of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.
Shutdown can also occur due to clogging of the blades with debris. In this case, we recommend that you carry out a complete cleaning procedure, that is, open the housing, clean the inner chambers and impeller, and check the filter.
If blockages occur frequently, re-read the instructions for the product to determine the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding
When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - the cable or the stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked with a tester; if a worn-out area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shorten it.
Winding repair is a laborious task and requires special knowledge. Even with a neatly drawn secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you have no time to fiddle with a burnt-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.
As you can see, both inevitable wear and a violation of the rules for operating the equipment can become the cause of wear of parts. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the body so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not pick up coarse particles.
At least once a year, check the integrity of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventive cleaning, which will increase the life of the parts by several times.Do not confuse a drainage device with a faecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.
Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot yourself.
Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode:
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Features of Pedrollo pump repair:
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How to Repair the Whirlwind Sump Pump:
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Dismantling the Praktika DNG-400 pump:
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Do-it-yourself repair of the drain pump is quite possible and desirable if it is enough to clean it or change a spare part to fix it. Difficult accidents - rupture of a housing or a rotating shaft - cannot be repaired by yourself. Elimination of serious problems must be entrusted to specialists, and if replacement is impractical, then buy a new pump.
Well pumps are used all over the world. After their invention and appearance on the mass market, the popularity of this equipment only began to grow.
Surface pump Jileks Jumbo for pumping station
However, pumps tend to break down, and the breakdown will have to be fixed as soon as possible. You don't want to live for weeks without water. It is about the repair of the pump that we will now talk about, and for the next example, we will take products from the Jileks company.
The pump is a fairly simple mechanism. Its design is not particularly complex, but this is only a comparative judgment. After all, it contains a motor, contacts, an impeller, a shaft, seals, a housing, etc.
All these parts interact with each other, which leads to their gradual wear. As a result, the pump will also need to be repaired.
Plus, it is worth noting that the pump works in rather difficult conditions. This does not apply to Jileks surface pumps, which are assembled together with hydraulic accumulators and installed in separate rooms. However, even such equipment often requires repairs.
What can we say about submersible pumps, for example, about the representatives of the Jileks Vodomet line. Find such equipment in a well or a well all the time. As a rule, they do not take it out for the winter, which only complicates the situation.
It is worth noting that due to the relative simplicity of the design, it is quite possible to repair all equipment with your own hands. This, of course, is not the best option, since if you make a mistake, you will not only not repair the pump, but only aggravate the situation.
However, in some situations, you can only do it yourself with your own hands. The main thing is to understand the design features of submersible and surface pumps, as well as their types of connections.
There are several of the most popular and well-known pump failures that should be highlighted separately. Diagnosing them is pretty easy too. For example, if electricity is connected, but the pump simply does not respond, then something has happened with the contacts or the supply wire.
Disassembled submersible pump, stopper removed from the top of the housing
It is quite easy to check this if you have the ability to disassemble the device and diagnose the contacts with a tester. The absence of a signal on one of the contacts indicates its damage. It is possible that by this time it will become damp, have an unnatural color, etc.
If all the mechanisms do not respond, then the cable is broken. This often happens with submersible pumps of the Vodomet type, since their cable is suspended and poorly protected.
The hum in the engine, uneven operation, clicks or "flooding" of the pump are all the result of problems with the engine or impeller. You can check the correctness of the theory if you disassemble the device and inspect it yourself. It is possible that the impeller is cracked or the bearings on the rotation shaft are out of order. These are the most common problems.
If the engine simply refuses to work, then the problem is already in it. Moreover, we already recommend not to mess with the engine.This is a rather delicate mechanism, especially on submersible models. For example, the pump engine Vodomet 50/25 cannot be disassembled at all, but this is typical only for some models.
Most often, the motor winding burns out, it can be replaced, but whether it will be beneficial is a pressing question. It is possible that it will be easier to simply replace it with a new one. Moreover, the Jileks company supplies spare parts for its products to almost all stores in the country.
In surface pumps, for example, in Jilex Jumbo stations, the engine may burn out altogether or wear out very much. All this is due to the dry running of the pump. Unlike submersible models, surface samples are very susceptible to this moment, and they suffer from dry running fairly.
If we are talking about pumping stations of Jilex Jumbo, then here it is also worth noting one wide breakdown, which occurs very often. It consists of problems with the pressure in the system.
There may be several reasons for this:
Jileks Jumbo pumping station under renovation
In the first case, the relay itself gets lost. It is easiest to check it, since the relay is easy to configure and rather primitive. If there are problems during setup, then the relay is to blame.
In accumulators, the diaphragm with air can burst or be damaged. This can only be checked with a full or partial disassembly of the tank. The lack of a sufficient amount of air in the membrane leads to an imbalance of the entire system and, as a consequence, a drop in pressure.
The pump can also react negatively, but this is extremely rare. As a rule, working elements fail, and the device simply cannot cope with pumping. But then you would have noticed the accompanying signs of breakage. For example, slight hum, low head, poor impeller rotation, etc. In all other cases, either the relay or the accumulator is to blame.
Now let's look directly at the repair of pumping equipment. It should be understood that repairing a submersible sample will differ from repairing a surface one.
To begin with, let's turn to the models of the Water cannon type. The Vodomet pump is a submersible sample that is available in different configurations. There are models in the 40/50, 55/35, 110/110, etc. However, they differ not so much in design as in the choice of specific components and sizes. Otherwise, their design is extremely simple and is repeated constantly.
Disconnected consumables, filters and water inlets of the Vodomet pump
Repair of a water cannon pump always begins with its disassembly. To do this, you need to carefully remove it from the well, disconnect it from the system and dry the pump from water.
We take out and dry the device.
Remove the top case or cover.
We remove the water intake mechanisms, we will have to use a vice. But remember that the inside of the case is hollow, and therefore it is important not to overdo it.
We disassemble the pumping part, if the breakdown lies there, then at this stage you will eliminate it. Otherwise, you will have to move to the engine.
Remove the plastic corkscrew ring and take out the engine.
We carefully pull out the wires and assess their condition.
After completing the repair, pour non-toxic oil into the engine and assemble the pump in reverse order.
It is important to note that the oil in the engine must be harmless. Glycerin is ideal as it does not harm or contaminate the surrounding fluid.
After disassembling the pump, it will be quite easy to troubleshoot the problem. Problem contacts can be wiped with alcohol or soldered. Broken wires are replaced with new ones or fastened in an artisanal way.
Damaged consumables or rotating parts are only replaced. It is cheaper to buy them than to repair them. Well, it is better to send the engine to a specialist who can disassemble, clean and repair it, as well as guarantee you a positive result.
As you can see, it is quite easy to disassemble and repair the Vodomet pump.Moreover, it does not matter which water cannon you choose, since the design principle remains the same.
Ready-to-use water jet pump
They act a little differently when repairing surface pumps and stations such as Jilex Jumbo. Here it is already necessary to deal with a specific solution to the problem. If the pump jams, then you need to remove the housing and check all systems.
We disconnect the equipment from electricity, the accumulator and drain the fluid in the hose.
Unscrew the back of the case.
We remove the moving parts of the case.
We disassemble the pump chamber.
We remove the impeller seals.
Pull out the engine carefully.
We disassemble with wires.
After completing the repair, we assemble the pump back.
As in the previous case, you can solve the problem with breakage at any stage. The advantage of surface pumps is that their casing is not one-piece, and it is easier to remove it. In this case, parts can be removed and disconnected inconsistently.
If there are problems with the impeller or consumables, then they are simply changed. You will have to get to the contacts through the engine's camera - this is the main problem, but there shouldn't be anything complicated here either.
The accumulators are disassembled by disconnecting the hose and unscrewing the plate. Then the membrane is pulled out from there. It is advisable not to repair the relay yourself, as it is very easy to damage it.
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It is not always possible to repair the Jileks pump on our own, but there are a number of minor malfunctions, for the elimination of which it is not necessary to contact a service center. Homeowners who operate pumping units of this brand at home will not hurt to know how to act in the event of a particular breakdown. After all, it is extremely uncomfortable to do without water supply for a long time, it is better to try to disassemble and repair the apparatus of the Jilex company with your own hands. If this fails, you can always take it to specialists.
The main thing is not to cause even more damage to the unit when trying to repair, so you need to act carefully and start by finding out the causes of the malfunction. To provide water supply to private households, 2 types of pumping devices are used:
submersible pumps Dzhileks of the Vodomet series;
surface pumping stations Jileks Jumbo.
The former are used to raise water from deep wells or wells with a depth of 20 m and to supply water to the interior of the dwelling. They are constantly under water, being submerged to the bottom of the well. Surface stations are located outside, in a technical room or a caisson, and are installed to pump water from wells or tanks, the depth of which does not exceed 20 m.
Before thinking that the Jileks submersible pump itself is faulty, it is advisable to make sure that the well is supplying enough water. If its performance has decreased due to various reasons (for example, silting), then when the level falls, the unit's automation will not allow it to turn on “dry”. Therefore, periodic failures of a household appliance indicate, most likely, a lack of water resources.
The second point: it is impossible to determine the breakdown and its cause, when the unit is submerged in the well, it will have to be raised to the surface in any case. An exception is the failure of the circuit breaker through which electricity is supplied to the Vodomet pump. In this situation, you will not have to extract it.
Possible reasons for the failure of the downhole unit are as follows:
failure of insulation or mechanical damage to the power cable;
break in the electrical circuit inside the pump;
wear of impeller parts;
wear of engine bearings;
abrasion of contact brushes;
short circuit in the winding and, as a result, its burnout.
The first 3 reasons can be found and eliminated on your own. If the unit, when turned on, emits a hum, but does not swing, and when you touch it, an electric shock follows, then the capacitor has burned out or dried out.As for replacing bearings, brushes or rewinding the motor, you will have to contact a service center for this.
These complex devices are quite reliable in operation. The first problems may arise 4-5 years after the start of work, provided that there were no emergency situations in which the pump had to rotate the impeller without water. And then these malfunctions rarely occur in the engine of the unit, but appear in other elements of the station:
membrane hydraulic accumulator;
pressure switch;
check valve.
The most common malfunction leading to complete failure of the pump motor is a malfunction of the check valve. It starts to let water through due to wear or clogging, the supply pipe is emptied, and the impeller rotates "dry". Also, the rubber "bulb" (membrane) installed in the accumulator tank may lose its tightness. There are also problems with the pressure switch, then the unit does not turn on when there is a water draw in the house.
Malfunctions associated with the interruption of the supply of electricity to the pump are characterized by the absence of signs of "life" when the power is turned on.
To check the continuity of the electrical circuit, you must use a continuity tester or a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. If the power cable is intact, then you need to go to the inside of the unit, for which it will have to be disassembled.
For disassembly, you will need a standard set of plumbing tools, available in every home and including:
screwdrivers;
pliers;
keys of different sizes;
nippers.
As an example, consider the process of disassembling a Jileks borehole pump model Vodomet 60/52. The sequence of work is as follows:
Disconnect the unit from the power supply and disconnect the suspension device.
Place the appliance in a vice with thick rubber pads between the jaws and the body. Unscrew the screws of the cover, in which the holes for the water intake are made, and remove it.
This will open access to the shaft with impellers, intermediate washers and cups mounted on it. They must be unscrewed and removed, laying out in a prepared place in order of priority, so as not to be confused during assembly.
Place the housing in an upright position with the shaft pointing down. To do this, you need a surface with a hole or a suitable stand.
With a light hammer blow on the top cover, slide the plastic retaining ring a few threads through the wooden adapter. Then pry it off with a screwdriver, turn it 90 ° and pull it out with pliers. If necessary, the screwdriver can be used as a guide that must be hit to turn the ring.
Pull out the machine motor following the plastic retaining ring. Handle it with care as the engine is filled with oil. It can be drained if necessary.
Dismantle the cover of the compartment where the wires are connected. It is attached to rubber seals and is knocked out with a flat screwdriver.
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Now that the pump is disassembled, it is possible to check all the electrical circuits, right down to the motor windings. In a situation where the body of a household appliance is shocked, the capacitor must be replaced. Carefully examine the condition of the plastic impellers, cups and spacers. When worn out, they must be replaced, for which you will have to buy or order an appropriate repair kit. It makes no sense to put worn parts back, because when the shaft rotates, they still cannot create the necessary pressure in the water supply network.
Unlike submersible pumping devices, in the Jileks Jumbo pumping station, the accumulator and pressure switch most often fail. The brushes of the engine may also wear out, but it is better to contact a service technician to replace them.Burnout of the windings is indicated by the smell of melted insulation and plastic, the problem will most likely be solved only by replacing the motor.
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Video (click to play).
The rubber "bulb" in the reservoir of the hydraulic accumulator cannot be replaced, and in case of loss of tightness, the entire reservoir must be replaced. To check, it is enough to remove the accumulator by disconnecting it from the station, unscrew the side plug and the spool, and then fill it with water from the injection side. If water runs through the spool, the battery should be replaced. They do the same with a pressure switch that cannot be adjusted - they change the entire element.
