DIY generator repair huter

Gasoline generator Huter DY8000LX, no battery. The generator was recently purchased and started up for the first time. The first time I worked for 10-15 minutes, all subsequent times I worked within 3 minutes, depending on the length of the break before trying to start. Before stalling, the revolutions began to float; after increasing the minimum revolutions, the unit simply began to stall. There was a feeling that it stalls due to heating. Gasoline flows well up to and including the filter (the filter is completely filled with gasoline). After stopping, the candle is dry (it could dry out, because it is hot).

Within 3 min. the engine will not heat up because the air consumption is immediately high. Nothing but fuel comes to mind. Missing him. Buy a spare candle. It helps like.

Problem with the HT950A gas generator. The crankshaft wedged during operation. After independent replacement, it began to work unstable. After some time of operation, the revolutions increase or decrease. By adjusting the speed screw (under the gas tank), after a while everything is repeated. When the speed decreases, if the unit is shaken, the speed rises, but also not for long.

Something with gasoline. Maybe the float wedges more. Check the ease of rotation of the regulator stem to which the spring is attached. When shaken in the gas tank, the rag moves and more gasoline comes in and the revolutions increase. Check the spring holding the choke against the adjuster lever.

Hooter DY4000L - oil in the filter, possibly overflowed. But what to watch when the power has dropped? More precisely, before he calmly held the 2.8 kW stoves, but now, when such power is turned on, it simply stalls.

Video (click to play).

First, take out the filter element, which is a sponge and replace the gasoline, and then try how it works, if everything is fine, then wash the filter and put it back in place, if it is also bad, then the adjustment of the valves and the carburetor, you may even have to clean the carburetor and the petrol faucet.

New Huter DY3000L. It started up, well, but the voltmeter went off scale right away. I measured the voltage with a multimeter - 354V. Second try is the same. I really forgot to measure the constant. From the side of the unit, a sound similar to the scratching of a fan impeller, if any.

For warranty or replacement. There are no other options.

Power station Huter DY6500L - manual start, new candles, oil changed 3 days ago, gasoline at the same time, bought in 2009, did not work a lot, from time to time, the problem began to appear this summer, voltage increased to 350 per week, did not touch, turned on everything is fine, today I started 220, brought it into the garage. After 2 hours, I took it out, stood on the street for half an hour at +1, started 350, opened it, the brushes are alive, everything seems to be normal, what to do, where to look? By adjusting the engine speed screw, you can bring the voltage to 240, it works very slowly, there is no tachometer, I adjusted the valve today, set it to 1.5. During normal operation, it gives out 223-227 volts, the voltage does not float.

The AVR has a damaged (or missing) capacitor. So it's better to replace it.

The problem is as follows. In winter, I left the Huter DY4000LX gas generator to the workers to carry out work in the house. When, at the end of the work, I asked how the unit started up, I received the answer that they could not start it and started it from the car's cigarette lighter. Since the generator can be started from the battery, I did not bother. Recently I arrived at the dacha, tried to start, but the starting cord stretched out without resistance to its entire length and dangles completely freely. Ie, obviously, the guys ripped it off the starter.Since I am not yet familiar with the internal structure of the unit, I would like to ask advice if the breakdown is worth taking it to repair, or can I fix it myself? One of the neighbors suggested removing the cover and attaching the cord. They say it will work fine. Is he right?

Yes, he is right, he knows what he says, the cord has broken - this is unlikely, most likely, the end of the spring broke off, if with a loop, then you can heat it up a little and bend it hot according to the broken pattern. It is better if the bend is not steep and the spring does not burst when bent, then without heating, it is safer.

Generator Huter DY4000L, purchased in summer 2014, gasoline, manual start, no rechargeable batteries, single-phase, 220V. In total, it worked 50 hours. Before the start of the season, I changed the oil, at the end of autumn it stopped starting, a light on the lack of oil in the engine began to burn. The oil has been checked and the level is normal. I read that the oil level sensor is most likely stuck. I decided to disassemble the unit. I disconnected the yellow wiring and the generator started, again, on the recommendation, I left it working, worked for 15 minutes, then another 10, turned it off, connected the wiring, and still nothing came off, although it seems that everything should be restored in 15 minutes. What to do now, how to make the sensor unstick? I unscrewed the nut that held it to the engine, I thought to get it, but something inside prevented me from getting it, I didn’t jerk much, because I don’t know the internal structure.

You unscrewed the nut not on the sensor, but on the gland of the wire that goes to the sensor. The sensor itself is a housing (screwed near the bottom of the crankcase) in which the float is located. There is no oil - the float is lying, closing the contacts. The probability is 1 to 2, or it will come off or not. If it is jammed in your generator due to a skew, it is easily treated. Advice from personal experience. Drain completely gasoline and oil. You call e-mail with a tester. circuit: sensor wire - motor housing. The circuit is closed. Turn the unit upside down and - the circuit is open. Gently put the unit in the working position, fill in oil, ring the chain - it is open. Usually, the float sticks on new power generators, during transportation on its side or upside down, on workers from the fact that when draining the oil, the unit was tilted to its side in order to drain faster and more.

For some reason, my power plant Hooter 4000 stopped working without suction at high loads. What is the problem? Under heavy loads (without suction), it emits some kind of incomprehensible sound. What is the problem, and what should you pay attention to when repairing this breakdown?

You need to clean the carburetor and adjust the valves.

I am trying to operate a Huter HT1000L electric generator (inverter). Fault: starting the second time, but it works for about twenty minutes, then it turns off and restarting is possible only after cooling down, after about half an hour, then the process is repeated. Please provide technical assistance.

First, adjust the valves.

The DY6500LX gasoline generator does not start from the manual starter, but it turns and starts a little with the key. Tell me what is the problem?

As a rule, it starts from the third jerk, and it takes a long time to start with the starter. Check the valve clearances, set them to 0.15 mm, the instructions say 0.05 mm.

Generator Hooter 6500, purchased in 2011, worked for only a few days, changed the candle six months ago. I have an interesting problem. I put a new recoil starter on it, and it scrolls to idle without scrolling the flywheel shaft. What to do?

Pull and see the engagement, perhaps the mechanism is tightly clamped by the central bolt and the petals do not come out.

There was a problem with the Hooter DY8000LX generator of approximately 2013 purchase. When working with a welding inverter, the voltage began to jump, then it disappeared altogether. Was sent for repair to the service. We replaced the AVR, started it, showed 220 without loading, I was delighted to take it and put it in storage.A week ago I started it, loaded it with a 3 kW cannon, and after 2 minutes it stopped giving voltage again. ATS again. I bought a new one, put it on, but already during operation I began to monitor the temperature of the armature and transistor on the AVR, it is equipped with a heat sink. Idling 51 Hz, 226v. The transistor heats up a little. With a load of 3 kW, both the anchor and the heat sink quickly heat up, I immediately turn off. Idling on the brushes of the armature 48 in. Can you please tell me what to do?

Find the voltage adjusting screw on the AVR and add the voltage to 236Volts, you see, and the old AVR will also work if it loses voltage under a heavy load.

Generator Huter DY4000L, petrol, manual start, 14th year of manufacture. It starts up well, but there is no stabilization of revolutions both at idle and under load. Those. the lever of the centrifugal governor of revolutions constantly moves and the revolutions jump.

The carburetor is most likely clogged - rinse it, at the same time see if fuel is flowing into the carburetor, maybe the filter in the tap becomes clogged, and clean the air filter. If it doesn't help, look at the spark plug. If it does not help, remove the draft from the speed regulator and try to adjust it by hand.

Generator DY2500L, running but not supplying voltage. They bought it 5 years ago, but practically did not use it, well, maybe they started it up once or twice for 2-3 hours. Yesterday it worked normally for about 7 hours, with interruptions after 2-3 hours for refueling, after which problems began: first, the power dropped (judging by the brightness of the bulbs) and the RCD worked in the house, then it worked normally again for a while. Then the voltage disappeared and began to appear in short pulses every 12 seconds - the bulbs light up and immediately go out, at the same time the voltmeter arrow twitches from zero and back and the revolutions increase and again fall, as if some kind of protection is triggered, but the protective machine on the unit and in the house, at the same time, it is turned on, like the RCD. The next day I tried it - there was simply no voltage, no impulses. I checked it with a connection to the house, and without, and just with a light bulb included in the generator - the symptoms are the same. Which way to look? Could something of the electronics be damaged from overheating (the unit is in an annex with an area of ​​about 1.5 m, there is only one hole for the exhaust pipe, and it gets very hot)?

Look in the direction of the alternator, which, in all likelihood, has an open (burnt) winding. Alternatively, mechanical destruction of parts (rotor / stator).

Gas generator Huter DY3000L. Operating time on the strength of 15 hours and then in the running-in mode. Recently purchased, it was not used as intended. Within 5 years, it was started up for 15 minutes every 2-3 months at a load of 1 kW. Today I started it, and the output voltage is 354V, it works smoothly, it holds the load, the heater is warming up. If you underestimate it with a damper, then closer to the starting mode, when it starts to stall, the voltage drops to 150-200 volts, but it naturally jumps all over, looked into the circuit that comes with it, and did not see the AVR module.

Remove the back cover - if there is no AVR there, then it is a capacitor one, and at that the speed is directly tied to the frequency and voltage - see the carburetor and the speed regulator. Inverter alternators are mainly three-phase, the final voltage is generated by an electronic module. Therefore, you will not find non-AVR, non-regulating capacitors there. If there is an ATS, then it is faulty, or you need to adjust it.

Inverter generator DN1000 has stopped starting. He unscrewed the spark plug, ignited it, checked the gap, checked if there was a spark. There is a spark, but it seems weak. When the starter handle is pulled, the “Overload” LED on the front panel blinks. Tell me where to look? I unscrewed the candle, tried to fill in 1 liter of gasoline - it would not start. Splashed ether - it will not start. The generator is inverter.

Posted on Jan 2, 2018 by generator-prosto. No comments yet

Gasoline generators, even if they are made in China, very reliable with proper care... Nevertheless, during their operation, small problems can arise that can usually be quickly fixed with your own hands. Serious breakdowns with the knowledge of the owner of the device and the principle of operation of the generator will also not be able to disable it for a long time.

If you arrange possible malfunctions of the gas generator in a kind of rating, you get the following list:

• Failure or contamination of the spark plug: difficult or impossible starting, unstable operation.
• Clogged carburetor: difficult starting, excessive fuel consumption, unstable operation under constant load.
• Failure of the ignition coil: no spark, inability to start.
• Breakdown of the manual starter: breakage, biting of the cable, destruction of the ratchet.
• Violation of valve clearances: difficult starting, increased noise during operation.
• Wear of brushes (on synchronous generators) - lack of output voltage.
• Speed ​​governor malfunction: floating engine speed, dips when changing the load.
• Wear of the bearings of the crankshaft and the rotor of the generator - an increase in operating noise, oil leakage.
• Wear of the cylinder, piston rings - difficult starting of a cold engine, excessive oil consumption.

It does not take into account breakdowns that result from a gross violation of the rules for operating the generator: for example, seizures on the crankshaft neck due to insufficient oil level, burnout of the generator windings or voltage converter (on inverter gas generators) with frequent overloads.

In fact, malfunctions of a gasoline generator can be divided into three groups: mechanical, electrical and fuel / ignition system malfunctions.

Difficulty starting the generator, which manifested itself suddenly and not accompanied by an increase in engine noise, is a clear sign of either deviations in the operation of the carburetor (too lean or rich mixture), or a faulty ignition system (weak or intermittent spark formation). Since the diagnostics of the state of these systems is interconnected, it is combined into one section.

Remove the spark plug and inspect the carbon deposits on the electrodes.

• Dense and dry black carbon deposits - a sign of a rich mixture (the carburetor is faulty, the air filter is clogged);
• Oily black carbon - a sign of severe wear of the piston rings, oil enters the combustion chamber;
• White soot - a sign of running on a lean mixture, it is necessary to check the carburetor.
• Brick brown carbon deposits - normal for carburetor engines.
• Red, green-red carbon deposits - a consequence of working on low-quality fuel.

It is simple to check the performance of the ignition system itself because of its extreme simplicity: turn on the ignition, insert a known good spark plug into the plug cap and, putting it on the nearest metal part of the engine with its skirt, turn the recoil starter abruptly. If there is no spark, disconnect the ignition switch and the oil level sensor from the ignition coil in turn: if, when both elements are disconnected, there is still no spark, replace the ignition coil.

If the spark is present and strong enough (white or blue-white), remove the spark plug after several starting attempts. A candle filled with gasoline is a sign of an over-enrichment of the mixture, a dry one is a lack of fuel.

Sometimes, after long storage, the carburetor needle and float stick and prevent gasoline from flowing inside. Several times sharply, but do not hit the float chamber lid very hard and start again.

The most common carburetor malfunction is contamination. The ingress of dirt into the air channels leads to an over-enrichment of the mixture, into the fuel jets - to a depletion. Dirt on the float shut-off needle leads to loss of tightness and overfilling of the float chamber, which will be immediately noticeable by the leakage of fuel from the carburetor.

Let's take a look at the carburetor maintenance using the example of a Honda GX engine installed - its design is typical of a gasoline generator.

• Remove the float chamber cover (4). Wash it in gasoline or a carburetor spray cleaner - dirt and deposits accumulate at the bottom.
• Proceed in the same way with the gas valve sump (22).
• Check if the gas valve is blown in the "open" position.
• Take out the float shaft (3), take out the float and the shut-off needle (2). Blow out the channel with air.
• Blow out the fuel jet (25), emulsion tube (11) and all carburetor passages with an aerosol cleaner or compressed air.
• Remove the adjusting screw (5), blow out its channel. Then screw it in until it stops and loosen, depending on the type of air filter, by 2 (foam, paper filters) - 2.5 turns (cyclone filters).
• Assemble the carburetor.

The electrical system of gas generators is quite reliable. Most often, you can face two problems: lack of battery charging on generators with electric start or lack of voltage at the generator output.

• The lack of battery charging is a consequence of the failure of the rectifier or low-voltage winding. It is easy to check this system with your own hands: connect a 12-volt light bulb in parallel with the low-voltage winding of the generator and start it. A lit light means that the generator itself is working properly, and it is necessary to replace the rectifier.
• The absence of voltage at the generator output is most often the result of wear on the brushes. Remove them and assess the degree of wear, replace if necessary. If your generator is an inverter type, check if the voltage comes to the input of the converter by connecting a low-power 220 V lamp in parallel with it.

Video about the step-by-step repair of the gas generator

One of the routine maintenance provided by the instruction manual for gas generators is the control and adjustment, if necessary, of the valve mechanism clearances. An increase in clearances above the norm will lead to a decrease in engine power, an increase in noise during operation. The most dangerous is a decrease in the gap, since it is not audible during operation, but the pinched valves, especially the exhaust, begin to burn rapidly. As a result, the engine starts to work unstably and, when the plate is burned out, it stops starting.

Valve Adjustment Procedure pretty simple:

1. Remove all components that interfere with the removal of the engine valve cover.
2. Remove the spark plug.
3. Remove the valve cover.
4. Set the crankshaft to top dead center of the compression stroke by the mark on the flywheel (if any) or by controlling the movement of the piston through the spark plug hole. Do not confuse compression TDC (both valves are closed) with TDC issue (the outlet valve closes, the inlet valve opens).
5. Loosen the locknuts of the adjusting screws and, using a flat feeler inserted between the rocker arm and the end of the valve, set the clearances by turning the screw. Typically, a clearance of 0.2 mm is adopted for the outlet valve, and 0.15 for the inlet valve (check in the operating instructions).
6. Tighten the locknuts and turn the crankshaft twice to TDC. If everything is done correctly, at the next dead center both gaps will go away, after another turn they will take the set value. Increased gaps after the first revolution are a sign that they were adjusted at TDC of the exhaust stroke.
7. Assemble the generator.

Manual starter malfunctions - perhaps the most common mechanical problem... Either the cable breaks, or the starter refuses to rewind it due to a broken return spring, or the ratchet does not turn the crankshaft.

Remove the starter by unscrewing the bolts around its casing. By unscrewing the screw (1), the ratchet can be removed. Check its cams (4) and return springs (5). Then carefully remove the pulley with the spring (7). Replace a broken cable or broken spring, whichever caused the repair.

When reassembling the starter, care must be taken to ensure that the spring remains in engagement with the shroud and pulley during installation. The cable must be fully wound around the pulley.With the ratchet in place, check the cable travel and how the starter returns to its original position.

Review and repair of the gas generator Einhell STE800