VIDEO
This manual presents the factory manual for the operation, maintenance and repair of front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive Honda HR-V vehicles from 1998 with gasoline engines D16A, D16W1, D16W2.
Video (click to play).
SYSTEM PGM-FI
REGULATION OF AIR SUPPLY AT IDLE SPEEDS.
Engine repair on Honda HR-V
Replacing the oil caps and piston rings on the Honda HR-V.
So. remove the air filter housing, remove the high-voltage wires and unscrew the valve cover.
Then you unscrew the entire block of the camshaft and rockers and remove it.
Unscrew the candles and through the candle channels you need to fix the valve that you will dry out.
If you decide to change the piston rings, then immediately remove the head and it will be easier for you to change the caps on the removed head.
After you have finished with the block head, then remove the engine oil pan and you will have access to the connecting rods, unscrew them and push them to the top of the cylinder block.
After you have unscrewed the connecting rods and pulled out the piston with connecting rods, then remove the old rings, clean the piston well and especially the grooves near the pistons, where the rings are and install new rings.
Lubricate everything with oil and drive the piston into place.
Old rings, although they look good, they have lost their elasticity and here is a photo of old rings.
Don't forget to buy new gaskets, rings and whatever else you need.
That's all I kind of described.
Toy-looking, but reliable and unpretentious
Gone are the days when the model was produced only in a three-door body. Her looks are impressive. A bit like a toy. But frivolous in appearance, it can hardly be called passenger. A true off-road SUV, but serious dirt isn't for it. True, the car pulls the Russian climate, nowhere is rust found even after years! Despite some stiffness of the suspension, there is no doubt about the reliability of the chassis. Whatever the mileage, nothing goes wrong in the steering, suspension and braking system as long as you drive on a flat road. Everything (air conditioning, mirrors, headlights, wipers, etc.) works for a long time and reliably. In addition to the air conditioner tensioning belt, this is the weak link of the car. Great interior with decent lighting. Good equipment.They say that the speed of the car is not enough, but it can still "ignite". And like a point. Nothing helped the manufacturer - not restyling, not other steps. The creators discontinued the 3-door version 12 years ago, and then the 5-door modification. Nothing has come to replace it.
Problems with a private master are solved quickly and efficiently
Our hero is not off-road. He literally flies, but only on asphalt. Drivers need to check the oil level, because the alarm light is late in the day to signal that the magician is a bit left. Our friend eats a lot of oil and also needs to repair the Honda HR-V engine. Do not try to do it yourself, because it is fraught! One inaccuracy, and who knows how your next trip will end. You can contact the branded service center, but be prepared for the fact that you will have to pay a lot and you will be offered an unnecessary service.
Meanwhile, there is a place where the quality of services is high and the prices are affordable. Take a look at our website Here you will find out in detail what services we provide, in addition to repairing the Honda HR-V engine, meet our professional who will help any brand. Whatever we are talking about, whether it is prevention, or diagnostics, overhaul of the Honda HR-V engine, repair of an automatic transmission and so on, our private master Nazariy is a real ace who can handle any breakdowns and problems of vehicles. Car owners from Moscow already know well that it is worth contacting our workshop, and then forget about breakdowns for a long time, and also not worry about repairing the Honda HRV engine, or about anything else - it's checked! In addition, our master personally purchases all the necessary parts (certified) in order to put the car on wheels.
Having diagnosed the power unit, our craftsman will not invent non-existent problems, but will debug a worn-out or worn-out mechanism, a unit. So much so that you will forget about repairing the Honda HR-V engine for many years. But on condition that you regularly visit us for maintenance. After all, the car must be monitored and measures must be taken in time - either change the oil, or the belt, or the spark plugs, and so on.
To make such a diagnosis: Honda HRV engine repair, our craftsman will recheck everything several times. A highly qualified specialist will bring the car to life and even advise its owner. Everyone who communicated with Nazarius continues to pay visits to our workshop. After all, no one is insured against different situations - whether it is wear and tear, or an emergency, when without repairing the Honda HR-V engine - nowhere, and so on.
Honda HRV repair is a popular service of “Honda Car Service” carried out by experienced specialists using the most modern equipment. You need to understand that repair The Honda HR-V, like any other Japanese car, is fraught with complexities, as technology from the land of the rising sun has never been simple. In addition, the repair of the Honda HR-V cannot be carried out without the presence of the latest technical achievements and novelties, which the services of the Honda Autoservice network have at their disposal. It should also be remembered that only a competent master can provide high quality services. Below we would like to tell you about the experience of repairing Honda HR-V 1999 -. G.V. which has been repeatedly produced by the specialists of our services.
As you know, Honda HR-V 1999 -. G.V. installed mechanical and variator gearboxes. Subject to the rules of operation, the "mechanics" does not cause any complaints, but the stepless variator is less reliable, since it is not intended for operation in domestic conditions. Repair of a Honda HR-V, associated with the restoration of variator functions, is a rather laborious event in terms of finding parts and a specialist who has experience in implementing such work.In the network of technical centers "Autoservice Honda" maintenance of the Honda HR-V related to the restoration of variators was carried out several times, so all specialists have the necessary knowledge and skills. Maintenance of the Honda HR-V, associated with changing the transmission oil, should be carried out at least 40-50 thousand kilometers, otherwise expensive repairs may be required. The one thing that every Honda HR-V owner should remember is this automobile not adapted for off-road conditions.
The chassis of the car and the braking system deserve all praise, since 120-150 thousand km of the distance traveled function properly without the slightest interference. The weak point of the suspension is the front stabilizer bushings, which are associated with the repair of the Honda HR-V at 60-80 thousand kilometers. The anti-lock braking system is very reliable and only requires periodic diagnostics of the main components.
The network of technical centers "Autoservice Honda" provides professional service of Honda HRV on the most favorable terms and in the shortest possible time.
Honda variator. Cleaning the variator control unit.
The operation, which will be discussed in this article, in fact, is quite complex, very responsible, and in no way "preventive"! The work, as well as the materials used during work, can harm the car if they are used incorrectly, or if they are not properly prepared. A prescription for such actions may be an unambiguous diagnosis of the problem with the variator, while eliminating all other problems with the engine (ignition systems, fuel supply, electrical circuit breakdowns).
It is imperative to perform the operation that will be discussed in this article only in a warm, bright room and with maximum accuracy.
So, today we are talking about cleaning variator control unit at Honda. I would like to note right away that the article will contain instructions for the first generation variators, the first and second types (cars, for example, Honda Civic EK3 and Honda Civic EU1). CVTs of the third type (Fit) and subsequent generations cannot be repaired based on this article, since they have structural differences from the first two types.
A prerequisite for such an operation may be problems with the CVT, such as “floating” of the tachometer rpm, “kicks” when starting off, “smeared” reaction of the box to engine operation. At the same time, all other problems with the car related to ignition and other things must be eliminated without fail. Before removing the "brains" of the variator, you must be sure that the point is in him, and not, for example, in bad high-voltage wires.
The “model” for today's article will be the Civic EU1 car, which came to us precisely with an unambiguous problem of the variator operation. In one of our previous articles, we talked about how to change the special fluid in the variator. ⅔ actions from that article are to be done this time too. Before getting the "brain", it will be necessary to drain the special fluid and remove the pallet. If you haven't changed the special fluid for a long time, there will be a great reason to do it now. We will accompany further actions with photographs with comments.
Slowly, carefully unscrew the long bolts securing the control unit to the pallet. Since the entire structure is made of aluminum, no excessive force must be applied. If something doesn't unscrew or detach, take your time and inspect everything carefully first.
Disconnect and unscrew the fastening of the wires. Attention! Remember the colors and location of the chips!
We take out the "brains" from the seat.
The landing site itself looks like this.
If you shine a light on, you can see the same variator belt.
We disassemble the brain into its constituent parts. This is a simple job, but it also requires the utmost care and accuracy - a lot of effort will break the knot rather than help. Cutting should be done in the cleanest possible environment, and it is best to use a clean waffle towel as a backing.
It is best to lay out the parts in the sequence of removal, so it will be easier to assemble back.
In our case, we used the tray as a bathtub for washing and wiping the items. Simple and convenient, in fact.
Through all these channels, which look like a labyrinth, a special fluid moves in the assembled unit. Of course, they will also need to be cleaned, but we are primarily interested in the valves that let the liquid pass in different directions. One of them is visible in the photograph. It is, as it were, “under” the labyrinth and differs in color.
In order to remove the valve from the channel, you need to remove just such a bracket. To remove it, we used a homemade awl with a long thin end and a ring instead of a handle.
After removing the bracket, ideally, the valve should fall out of the groove by itself. If it does not fall out, you need to help him.
If the valve was poorly removed and the walls of the cylinder have irregularities (it can only be determined by lubricating the valve well with HMMF and dropping it back) can carefully clean the cylinder thoroughly soaked in the same HMMF (CVTF) zero-sandpaper. ATTENTION ! This operation requires minimal effort and time. Do not rub with sandpaper in the cylinder for a long time, or even with some effort. The account of the gaps in this node goes to microns, so sandpaper is needed only in order to remove possible inclusions of harder particles from the surface of the cylinder. This operation itself incorrect therefore, the prescription for it can be only clear wear of the variator. Carrying out this operation on the working variator for “prevention” is NOT PERMISSIBLE.
The piston itself can also have a workout, such as in this photo. The elimination method is the same. The warnings are the same as in the previous case.
The block with solenoids (solenoid valves) also contains conventional valves, which must be movable. The logic is simple, - if the valve is movable in its cylinder, - we do not touch it, - if its mobility raises doubts, we take it out and clean it. In our case, four valves out of eight on large parts and one on blocks with solenoids were cleaned.
After cleaning the valves, the labyrinth platforms themselves are thoroughly washed with a carbohydrate cleaner to remove all kinds of micro-contaminants. Note the small metal nets in the larger platforms. They contain a lot of dirt, so they must also be thoroughly washed. Now you can start reassembling.
The metal plate between the two blocks, before installation, must be thoroughly washed from dirt (there is a lot of it on it), and immersed in the HMMF, in order to have an oil film on both sides.
We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.
The main thing is not to rush, carefully choosing the sequence of parts. It's hard to make a mistake. The bolts must be tightened carefully. Do not forget that all parts are aluminum.
Putting the entire structure into place is carried out in the reverse order shown in the first four photographs.
As a conclusion, it can be noted that the question of cleaning or brainwashing the Honda CVT is raised on the Internet quite often, but at the same time few know HOW it is done, and even fewer people suggest how to do it CORRECTLY. The purpose of our story was to demonstrate the process. It is recommended to do it yourself only by experienced mechanics who understand the full responsibility of this event. The cost of the error is great - the variator itself.
If you think that your car needs such an operation, first consult with the masters, and be sure to make sure that the problems of your car arise from the variator, and not from other components. Otherwise, such repairs can only harm.
Those who are willing to take the risk and try to repair the node on their own can use this material as some kind of instruction for the procedure. But, to be completely honest, it is better to entrust this complex operation to professionals.
P.S. After disassembling the "CVT brains" on your own car.
First, the operation is really not for the faint of heart and the absent-minded. It is difficult to confuse the structural elements, but it is possible if you get distracted for at least a minute halfway. The valves in variators of the first type are not steel, but some kind of titanium, or something similar. Some of the valves in my car (Honda Capa) were stuck to death and had to be disassembled and cleaned.
Secondly. When connecting the wires, I made a mistake, and attached them incorrectly. Because of this, the box gave out errors 31 and 33 (main line solenoid and emergency mode solenoid). I had to remove and install the brains several times before the cause of the problem was discovered. For those who will repeat - on the one hand, a single wire goes to the small solenoid , with another, - the green-wound wire must be on the lower solenoid!
Thirdly. The box after repair requires calibration. It can be done with a special scanner, but, as they say, for lack of the best, you can try to do it on the go. I had to do exactly according to the second scenario. The essence of the calibration is as follows, - fully warmed up car , is driven onto a flat straight road, parked, then switches to D and accelerates to 60 km / h (I managed to do this on the third attempt, because twice the car just stalled on the move), and gas at 60 km / h is abruptly released so that the car will coast. In this case, there should be disabled all energy consumers (stove, light, music, heating, heating, etc.). In winter, it is extremely difficult to do all this (especially at a temperature of -36 in Novosibirsk), but there was not much choice. Coasting must take place at least 6-7 seconds! Do not step on the gas or the brake at this moment! After that, the car can try to step on the gas. If there is a kick, the calibration is repeated.
Fourth. Yesterday's first trip was very difficult - the car stalled, several times went into emergency mode with blinking D and blocking the box. The second trip was already better. The third, the way home, is even better. The car no longer stalled and did not try, it accelerated confidently to 70 (it was scary to accelerate further, since there was a high probability of sending the box into emergency mode at this speed), although there were spreading kicks when the gas was released and pressed again, almost every time it was pressed. This morning, on the way to work, the situation improved even more, there were fewer kicks, and acceleration and maneuvers by the car began to seem safe already at 80-85 without trying to go into emergency mode. Climbing a steep hill also did not cause any problems (and yesterday, during the first climb up the hill, according to the law of meanness, the box went into emergency mode right on the tram tracks, and before I realized that I needed to "reboot" (turn off-turn on the ignition) the passengers of two trams pushed me off the rails.
One of the specializations of our stations is the high-quality repair of Honda ShRV. Our auto repair shops have a dedicated Honda HR-V repair tool. Consumables, oils and fluids are available for routine maintenance. Within a couple of hours, from the main warehouse, we will bring any spare parts for the repair of Honda ShRV.
Before starting the repair of Honda ShRV we will make free diagnostics suspension, engine or electrics (free diagnostics in case of repair at our service stations). We do not recommend doing DIY repairs on the Honda HR-V.Everyone must do their job. You need to entrust the repair of your car to those who do it every day.
The cost of repairing Honda ShRV:
Routine work and maintenance of the Honda HR-V is recommended to be carried out every 7-10 thousand km. mileage. This necessarily includes changing the engine oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. When carrying out scheduled work, we will make free diagnostics of all vehicle components and draw up a list of recommendations.
Every 60 thousand km. mileage, we recommend changing the timing belt with rollers, and if the motor is chain, then it is better to replace the chain every 120 thousand km. It is better to replace the candles every 40 thousand kilometers on gasoline engines and 100 thousand kilometers. mileage on a diesel engine. On Honda HR-V models with adaptive throttle, it is recommended to clean and adapt the throttle every 60,000 km.
The most famous problems and malfunctions of Honda ShRV: - acidification of the caliper pistons with subsequent uneven wear of pads and discs;
The degree of wear of the bearing of the Honda ShRV hub can only be determined during diagnostics.
Warranty for all repair work Honda ShRV - 6 months.
And this is despite the modest interior and rather poor equipment. In addition, until 2000, a single engine was offered in Europe - 1.6 liters, 105 hp, until, again, the only alternative appeared - a 125-horsepower engine of the same volume (see Model History).
A good compromise between graceful form, high fit, capacity and compactness, the HR-V can be used for commuting to work and the market, on vacation or on a picnic. Let's not forget what many people choose Honda for - outstanding handling, despite the high center of gravity and dependent rear suspension of this model. The automatically connected four-wheel drive (under normal conditions it is a front-wheel drive car) is an additional trump card for Russia. However, to the off-road conquerors, we recall that the swamp and the muddy tractor track are not for this machine. But the clearance of 170 mm allows you not to be too afraid of potholes and gullies. And there are also completely asphalt HR-V - with a drive only to the front wheels.
There are a lot of these machines on the Russian market. Prices for restyled copies are still high (more than 20 thousand dollars), but cars of the first years of production fell in price to 11-15 thousand. Structurally, they are almost identical, and HR-V does not have childhood illnesses, therefore, among 5-7-year-old cars, you can find quite a decent one. But you still need to choose with passion, keeping in mind the high prices for branded service and original spare parts.
High-speed motors "Honda" are reliable: if you strictly follow the regulations, they will not bring unpleasant surprises. In the regulations, the account goes to hundreds of thousands of kilometers. After the first hundred, the timing belt is changed (the original rollers usually serve with a second belt, no mandatory replacement is provided), after 200 thousand km or after 5 years - the coolant (subsequently it is prescribed to renew it every 100 thousand or 3 years). After the second hundred thousand, it is worth prophylactically changing the pump: it may not live up to the fourth hundred, but you still have to remove the belts. By the way, if you saw traces of antifreeze drips near the drain hole in the left rear part of the engine, this is the first signal.
The breaks of the original belts behind the Honda were not noticed, the clearances in the valves (they are regulated as on UZAM engines - by the thrust screw of the pusher) on good oil do not go away even to 100 thous.km, so maintenance costs are minimal here - "oil" maintenance every 10 thousand km. Motor oil - synthetics or semi-synthetics of quality level not lower than SJ API.
The variator (CVT) is one of the highlights of the Honda HR-V. Traditional planetary "automatic gearboxes" were not offered for this model, especially since the CVT gearbox proved to be quite good. Smooth, jerk-free and at the same time powerful acceleration at optimal engine speeds can upset only the ear - the engine sings boringly on one note. The dynamics with the variator is even better than with the "mechanics", and the engine braking is quite effective. However, for those who like to light up, we still recommend the MCP. The variator does not like a sharp, ragged ride - the starting clutch and the reverse mechanism wear out from it. When buying, go through all the CVT modes, try to move smoothly. If the choice of modes is accompanied by shocks in the transmission, and starting off with a jolt, it is better to refuse such a machine. Replacing individual parts of the mechanism rarely helps, and the assembly is very expensive. For CVTs until 2002, the original CVT Transmission Fluid is provided, since 2002 - ATF Z1. It will also suit old cars instead of CVTTF, but the reverse replacement is unacceptable. The replacement interval is 40 thousand km.
With the same frequency, it is necessary to change the oil in the manual gearbox - the original MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid). With it, the gearbox serves more than 300 thousand km without any complaints. As an exception, motor oil is also suitable, only mineral oil 10W40 is required; its maximum service life is 20 thousand km.
The rear axle of the all-wheel drive HR-V is equipped with an original engaging mechanism with two DPS (Dual Pump System) pumps. One pump is driven by the propeller shaft, the other by the wheels, with a difference in their speeds a pressure difference arises, which activates the bridge connection mechanism. The DPSF oil change interval is 120 thousand km, but it has to be renewed much earlier - after about 60-70 thousand km. By this run, a grunting sound appears in the bridge at sharp turns, which means that the oil has lost its properties and the wear of parts has begun. If you continue to drive on the old oil, the wear will progress, and by 150-200 thousand km you will have to buy a new "hydro package".
For replacement, it is better to take two liters of oil: one will go for flushing (for pumping the system, the rotating rear wheels are held while the car is hanging on a lift), the other for the final filling (in principle, any ATF can also be flushed, it is drained almost completely). There is another way to avoid early DPSF replacement - to fill in the new generation VTM4 oil (Honda produces it for other models). It protects parts much better and serves the prescribed 120 thousand km without problems.
The power steering is no less demanding on oil. Widespread ATF destroys him once and for all. Only "Honda's" PSF (Power Steering Fluid) is suitable for it, but it is possible that it will not be required: replacement by the regulations is not provided, with the exception of obvious signs of wear (strong darkening and a burnt smell). It is best to change the fluid by successive replacement (ZR, 2003, No. 4, p. 246).
Original spare parts for "Honda" are expensive, but reliable and pay for themselves with interest in long-term operation. So, the clutch on the HR-V serves more than 200 thousand km, the propeller shaft - 150-200 thousand (it is not repairable and changes in assembly). The steering rack is almost eternal, like the power steering pump, and the tips will last at least 100 thousand km.
There are no complaints about the brakes either. The rear ones are drum-type, they have to be controlled only every 80-100 thousand km. The front discs, despite the small wear tolerance (0.5 mm per side), also serve a lot (the pads are enough for 40-80 thousand km). Their main enemy is salt and rare trips. The discs rust, and the pads begin to adhere unevenly to the surface of the disc, irregularities and a hard-to-remove, ingrained layer of scale appear. Sometimes such defects can be eliminated with a groove.Thermal deformation of the disks (from overheating and abrupt cooling) was not observed on HR-V. The ABS system is also reliable. Brake hoses are designed to last and DOT-4 fluid is changed every three years.
The body of the HR-V is galvanized up to the roof and resists corrosion very well. At least, without "outside help" rust even on cars of the first years has not yet appeared. However, additional anticorrosive will not hurt, especially if you drive a lot on graders and primers - "Honda" does not put wheel arch liners in the rear arches.
The electrical equipment of the HR-V is practically trouble-free - the connectors are reliably sealed, and the wiring harnesses are protected by additional insulation. But when buying a car with an alarm that controls the central lock, try to check how the installers connected the wires: many, without thinking twice, drill a connector in the driver's door, and after a while the contacts oxidize - you have to change the entire harness. By the way, to protect against ordinary hijackers, a standard immobilizer is enough (the response chip is in the ignition key), all cars were equipped with it.
Pay attention to the rear speakers: there is little space for them, so when trying to implant "non-native" acoustics, they often damage the plastic.
The initial ignition timing is traditionally set for Honda, manually, by turning the distributor housing. It is not required to regulate it, but it is useful to check, especially if traces of interference are visible. Do not forget to close the corresponding contacts of the diagnostic socket. The connector will also come in handy far from the corporate technical center - it allows you to read error codes (malfunctions) using indicators on the instrument panel (Engine, CVT, SRS, ABS).
Disconnecting the battery does not cause problems here, only the power windows "forget" the extreme positions. To remember them, it is enough to hold the key for a few seconds after the glass has reached the stop.
1998 year. Honda HR-V 3-door introduced. Engine - gasoline sixteen-valve, 1.6 l, 77 kW / 105 hp. (D16W1). Transmission - M5 or A (CVT), 4x4 Real Time or front-wheel drive.
1999 year. The five-door version (the base is increased by 100 mm, the increase went to the rear passengers). New engine - petrol, sixteen-valve, with VTEC system, 1.6 l, 92 kW / 125 hp. (D16W5).
2002 year. Restyling: the front part and the interior of the car have changed, fog lights appeared in the bumper.
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Repair manual Honda HR-V , as well as a manual for the maintenance and operation of the Honda HR-V, the device of front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles Honda hr-v with engines D16A, D16W1, D16W2 with a working volume of 1.6 liters. The publication contains a description of the adjustment and repair of gasoline engine control systems, a description of the self-diagnosis of various systems (engine, automatic transmission, ABS), detailed instructions for the repair of manual and continuously variable automatic (Honda Multi Matic CVT) gearboxes, differential mechanism (Real-Time 4WD ), adjustment and repair of elements of the braking system (including the ABS system), steering, suspension, additional security system and bodywork. Honda hr-v ... This manual is intended for car owners. Honda HR-V , mechanics, service station workers and car services.
Russian language
Honda variator. Cleaning the variator control unit.
The operation, which will be discussed in this article, in fact, is quite complex, very responsible, and in no way "preventive"! The work, as well as the materials used during work, can harm the car if they are used incorrectly, or if they are not properly prepared. A prescription for such actions can be an unambiguous diagnosis of the problem with the variator, while eliminating all other problems with the engine (ignition systems, fuel supply, electrical circuit breakdowns).
It is imperative to perform the operation that will be discussed in this article only in a warm, bright room and with maximum accuracy.
So, today we are talking about cleaning variator control unit at Honda. I would like to note right away that the article will contain instructions for the first generation variators, the first and second types (cars, for example, Honda Civic EK3 and Honda Civic EU1). It will not be possible to repair variators of the third type (Fit) and subsequent generations, focusing on this article, since they have structural differences from the first two types.
A prerequisite for such an operation may be problems with the CVT, such as “floating” of the tachometer rpm, “kicks” when starting off, “smeared” reaction of the box to engine operation. At the same time, all other problems with the car related to ignition and other things must be eliminated without fail. Before removing the "brains" of the variator, you must be sure that the point is in him, and not, for example, in bad high-voltage wires.
The “model” for today's article will be the Civic EU1 car, which came to us precisely with an unambiguous problem of the variator operation. In one of our previous articles, we talked about how to change the special fluid in the variator. ⅔ actions from that article are to be done this time too. Before getting the "brain", it will be necessary to drain the special fluid and remove the pallet. If you haven't changed the special fluid for a long time, there will be a great reason to do it now. We will accompany further actions with photographs with comments.
Slowly, carefully unscrew the long bolts securing the control unit to the pallet. Since the entire structure is made of aluminum, no excessive force must be applied. If something doesn't unscrew or detach, take your time and inspect everything carefully first.
Disconnect and unscrew the fastening of the wires. Attention! Remember the colors and location of the chips!
We take out the "brains" from the seat.
The landing site itself looks like this.
If you shine a light on, you can see the same variator belt.
We disassemble the brain into its constituent parts. This is a simple job, but it also requires the utmost care and accuracy - a lot of effort will break the knot rather than help. Cutting should be done in the cleanest possible environment, and it is best to use a clean waffle towel as a backing.
It is best to lay out the parts in the sequence of removal, so it will be easier to assemble back.
In our case, we used the tray as a bathtub for washing and wiping the items. Simple and convenient, in fact.
Through all these channels, which look like a labyrinth, a special fluid moves in the assembled unit. Of course, they will also need to be cleaned, but we are primarily interested in the valves that let the liquid pass in different directions. One of them is visible in the photograph. It is, as it were, “under” the labyrinth and differs in color.
In order to remove the valve from the channel, you need to remove just such a bracket. To remove it, we used a homemade awl with a long thin end and a ring instead of a handle.
After removing the bracket, ideally, the valve should fall out of the groove by itself. If it does not fall out, you need to help him.
If the valve was poorly removed and the cylinder walls have irregularities (you can only determine by lubricating the valve well with HMMF and dropping it back) can carefully clean the cylinder thoroughly soaked in the same HMMF (CVTF) zero sandpaper. ATTENTION ! This operation requires minimal effort and time. Do not rub with sandpaper in the cylinder for a long time, or even with some effort. The account of the gaps in this node goes to microns, so sandpaper is needed only in order to remove possible inclusions of harder particles from the surface of the cylinder. This operation itself incorrect therefore, the prescription for it can be only clear wear of the variator. Carrying out this operation on the working variator for “prevention” is NOT PERMISSIBLE.
The piston itself can also have a workout, such as in this photo. The elimination method is the same. The warnings are the same as in the previous case.
The block with solenoids (solenoid valves) also contains conventional valves, which must be movable. The logic is simple, - if the valve is movable in its cylinder, - we do not touch it, - if its mobility raises doubts, we take it out and clean it. In our case, four valves out of eight on large parts and one on blocks with solenoids were cleaned.
After cleaning the valves, the labyrinth platforms themselves are thoroughly washed with a carbohydrate cleaner to remove all kinds of micro-contaminants. Note the small metal nets in the larger platforms. They contain a lot of dirt, so they must also be thoroughly washed. Now you can start reassembling.
The metal plate between the two blocks, before installation, must be thoroughly washed from dirt (there is a lot of it on it), and immersed in the HMMF, in order to have an oil film on both sides.
We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.
The main thing is not to rush, carefully choosing the sequence of parts. It's hard to make a mistake. The bolts must be tightened carefully. Do not forget that all parts are aluminum.
Putting the entire structure into place is carried out in the reverse order shown in the first four photographs.
As a conclusion, it can be noted that the question of cleaning or brainwashing the Honda CVT is raised on the Internet quite often, but at the same time few know HOW it is done, and even fewer people suggest how to do it CORRECTLY. The purpose of our story was to demonstrate the process. It is recommended to do it yourself only by experienced mechanics who understand the full responsibility of this event. The cost of the error is great - the variator itself.
If you think that your car needs such an operation, first consult with the masters, and be sure to make sure that the problems of your car arise from the variator, and not from other components. Otherwise, such repairs can only harm.
Those who are willing to take the risk and try to repair the node on their own can use this material as some kind of instruction for the procedure. But, to be completely honest, it is better to entrust this complex operation to professionals.
P.S. After disassembling the "CVT brains" on your own car.
First, the operation is really not for the faint of heart and the absent-minded. It is difficult to confuse the structural elements, but it is possible if you get distracted for at least a minute halfway. The valves in variators of the first type are not steel, but some kind of titanium, or something similar. Some of the valves in my car (Honda Capa) were stuck to death and had to be disassembled and cleaned.
Secondly.When connecting the wires, I made a mistake, and attached them incorrectly. Because of this, the box gave out errors 31 and 33 (main line solenoid and emergency mode solenoid). I had to remove and install the brains several times before the cause of the problem was discovered. For those who will repeat - on the one hand, a single wire goes to the small solenoid , with another, - the green-wound wire must be on the lower solenoid!
Thirdly. The box after repair requires calibration. It can be done with a special scanner, but, as they say, for lack of the best, you can try to do it on the go. I had to do exactly according to the second scenario. The essence of the calibration is as follows, - fully warmed up car , is driven onto a flat straight road, parked, then switches to D and accelerates to 60 km / h (I managed to do this on the third attempt, because twice the car just stalled on the move), and gas at 60 km / h is abruptly released so that the car will coast. In this case, there should be disabled all energy consumers (stove, light, music, heating, heating, etc.). In winter, it is extremely difficult to do all this (especially at a temperature of -36 in Novosibirsk), but there was not much choice. Coasting must take place at least 6-7 seconds! Do not step on the gas or the brake at this moment! After that, the car can try to step on the gas. If there is a kick, the calibration is repeated.
Video (click to play).
Fourth. Yesterday's first trip was very difficult - the car stalled, several times went into emergency mode with blinking D and blocking the box. The second trip was already better. The third, the way home, is even better. The car no longer stalled and did not try, it accelerated confidently to 70 (it was scary to accelerate further, since there was a high probability of sending the box into emergency mode at this speed), although there were spreading kicks when the gas was released and pressed again, almost every time it was pressed. This morning, on the way to work, the situation improved even more, there were fewer kicks, and acceleration and maneuvers by the car began to seem safe already at 80-85 without trying to go into emergency mode. Climbing a steep hill also did not cause any problems (and yesterday, during the first climb up the hill, according to the law of meanness, the box went into emergency mode right on the tram tracks, and before I realized that I needed to "reboot" (turn off-turn on the ignition) the passengers of two trams pushed me off the rails.
