DIY repair boat motor whirlwind 25

Khorkhordin E.G. Outboard boat motors. Improvement and repair of motors Vikhr, Vikhr-M, Vikhr-30. Directory. - M .: "Publishing House of the Ruchenkin", 2006. - 176 p.

The book systematizes and summarizes the recommendations of many amateur motorboats on self-repair and modernization of the main units and systems of motors. Methods for eliminating the most characteristic shortcomings and malfunctions inherent in Vortex motors of various modifications are considered. The technical characteristics and data on the interchangeability of the most running engine parts are given.

The manual is intended for hobbyists and boaters and outboard motor repair shop workers.

Check the integrity of the frame (mount + cores) of the ignition coils. But in general, the principle is the same everywhere: if there is a spark, then there is no gasoline and vice versa))) Good luck!

Ignition is conventional cam. Yesterday I replaced the plugs with wires again. Special boat candles - cheap Soviet candles. Before that, there were imported ones. It seems to work. But the warm one still starts up badly. Hot is ok. but it will stand a little - you have to pull it 15 times.
This weekend I still think I will frolic with him on the river.
And another question. Maybe there are some tips for modernization .. let's put some imported coils .. or a carburetor from something better ..

Have you tried to regulate the carburetor (in the sense of the problem on the hot one)? Fuel level in the float chamber, twist the screws?

Pablo, your description of the problem is too vague. Are the candles (after trying to turn on hot) wet? Is there a spark and what kind? If it is dry and there is a spark, then where is the gasoline (float chamber, b / pump, valve on the hose, if there is one). Well, or a book in hand and off you go. Or see the post above about a foreign car))) Good luck!

I had the same garbage on Neptune-23. As it turned out later, the mixture was over-enriched.

I have had this, I even had a failure of one cylinder for a hot one, i.e. while cold - everything is fine, warmed up - refused. There was always a problem in the ignition, more precisely in the gap between the cams, wire insulation, and so on. IMHO, it is better to replace it with a new one.

a quick start balloon helped not to bother

It seems to me, in this case, the usual thermal shock. After stopping the internal combustion engine, fuel evaporates in the hot carb, and fills the intake tract and cylinders from the float chamber with a closed throttle, causing an over-enrichment of the mixture. You will not believe it turns out that gasoline does not burn! Only gasoline vapors burn, and then in a certain concentration called stoichiometric (correct simplification) about 1 to 15 gasoline
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a rich mixture (as well as an extremely lean mixture) cannot be ignited by a spark. The usual method of dealing with this ailment is purging, opening the throttle fully and turning the starter, after about 10-15 strokes, flashes begin and the engine starts. Judging by your posts, you do not have a starter, and it is unlikely to portray a normal blowdown hand-to-hand. By the way, this moment of behavior is typical for all carburetor engines and automobile ones too (excluding the Japs, there is a system that fights this effect)

By the way, about import ..
If an imported motor does not save the sawdust in my head, a spring incident in my life: the first trip to the river, my comrades and I go on motors. We have a cauldron under the 25th served vortex, tovarischa has a new nissamaran with last year's pit.After entering the glide, his yamaha was constantly deaf, after the fifth embarrassment, his launch was taken in tow and dragged away in shame on a whirlwind on a fishing trip, after long digging and proceedings it was found that the seasoned fisherman grossly violated the operating instructions, poured gasoline diluted with oil last year, apparently regretted the good. And although it was stored in an airtight container, it lost its properties. There is only one withdrawal conclusion - I bought an import, listen to the instructions, but our people don't care about it, the installer opens only when the result does not come to the mind of Lazarus, and even then only when, due to a great need, it was necessary ..

First time on sale 18 HP boat motor «Vortex»Appeared in 1965. All subsequent years, in parallel with the serial production of the first model, work was carried out to improve the design of the engine, increase its power and efficiency. A total of eight models were developed and produced: the "Whirlwind" motor was replaced in turn by "Whirlwind-M", "Whirlwind-30R", "Whirlwind-30", "Whirlwind-25P electron", "Whirlwind-25 electron", "Whirlwind-30R" electron "and" Whirlwind-30 electron ". Their power increased from 18-22 hp. (13.3-16.2 kW) up to 25 hp (18.2 kW), and then up to 30 hp. (22 kW). The separate cast iron cylinders were replaced by an aluminum cylinder block; motors with an electric start and a manual starter were replaced by motors equipped with an electronic ignition system (ESZ), in connection with which the "additive" - ​​electron appeared in the name.

Today, about 1 mln. boat motors "Whirlwind" of different generations. Many motor owners have difficulty with renovation engines, replacement of parts and assemblies. It is still difficult to purchase spare parts far from industrial centers, in many regions there are no repair shops, and a service department has not yet been developed. It is far from always possible to find a knowledgeable specialist nearby. But sometimes the motor becomes inoperative only because of its inept operation or untimely and poor-quality repair.

The accumulated experience allows us to make some of the most general advice to the owners of "Whirlwinds":

• when operating the PM, it is imperative to follow all recommendations for engine maintenance;
• it is advisable to sort out all new engines from the store;
• it is imperative to purchase and use oil intended for two-stroke water-cooled engines (logo according to international standards TC-W-3 - ashless mineral oil, economically degradable in water; diluted in gasoline at a ratio of 1:40).

Message # 1 Georg Ohm »04 Jan 2017, 22:53

I got the "Whirlwind-25" motor with the boat. Slightly dismantled: there is no flywheel, magneto is rather in the trash, there is no ignition reel. Was not mothballed and lay in a box at the boat station for 2.5 years. But he is inscribed on the ship's ticket. Deadwood is still virgin because there is no hatch and the standard reverse link is not collapsible. In this state, the motor is one hundred percent anchor, as they usually joke about "Whirlwind" motors. There were some difficulties in unscrewing the engine itself from the pallet. Only 2 countersunk screws are tightly acidified in the threaded bushings of the crankcase. Soaking the WD-40 for 3 days and tapping with a screwdriver in the slots gave an effect, and with a powerful knob, I finally pulled these recalcitrant screws. Then brushing off dust and sand from the crankcase and block with a brush, unscrewing the carburetor and the fuel pump, then washing off the dirt adhering to the oil with a rag soaked in gasoline. In the photo, I indicated where the stubborn ugly cogs are. When reassembling, be sure to drive the threads and twist them on the graphite. I will disassemble the engine further, tk. shitty spinning, albeit evenly. Crankshaft rings or bearings are suspected. The second would not be desirable, of course.

Sent after 1 hour 39 minutes 29 seconds:
I disassembled the motor and was a little sad. It turned out that the upper cylinder is so well upturned from the exhaust side. At the same time, there is a hone on the side, and in the lower cylinder there is a hone everywhere around the circumference.The piston is seized, but the rings are intact and there are no chips on them. That is, the engine has not been rolled very much. The knee with spools is also free of wear. The most surprise awaited when the block began to be viewed with passion: the raised cylinder has an evenly placed sleeve, but in the working sleeve it is planted 1-1.5 mm lower and slightly folded, which is a vertical step relative to the channels by 1 mm and about a step to the side by 1 mm ... I think: give this one to the bore or look for another block?

Message # 2 Georg Ohm »06 Jan 2017, 23:27

Message # 3 User_612 »07 Jan 2017, 00:20

Message # 4 Georg Ohm »07 Jan 2017, 01:52

Message # 5 Georg Ohm »07 Jan 2017, 18:41

Message # 6 User_612 »07 Jan 2017, 18:47

Message # 7 Georg Ohm »07 Jan 2017, 22:20

Message # 8 mix66 »08 Jan 2017, 08:53

Message # 9 User_612 »08 Jan 2017, 16:15

Message # 10 Georg Ohm »08 Jan 2017, 16:30

The cylinder-piston group of the outboard motor operates under high thermal and mechanical stress. The design features of any two-stroke engine, in which the exhaust and blowdown are controlled directly by the piston overlapping the windows cut in the cylinder mirror, are such that, due to a significant reduction in contact areas, the specific loads on the parts of the group under consideration are especially high. That is why increased requirements are imposed on the materials used and the manufacturing technology of parts of this group.

In order to correctly operate your "Whirlwind" and correctly perform preventive and overhaul repairs of the engine, it is necessary to represent the structural differences in the details of the cylinder-piston group "Whirlwind", "Whirlwind-M" and "Whirlwind-30" (taking into account the release time) and when replacing parts to provide the combination of their mating dimensions provided for by the drawings.

The main difference between the engines of the Vortex family motors is in the design of the cylinders.

In the Vortex engine, which has a deflector blowing, the cylinders are separate and each of them is entirely cast from cast iron. The cavities of the purge and outlet channels and the water jacket were formed during casting without additional machining (Fig. 1). According to the diameter of the mirror, the cylinders are divided into three size groups (Table 1). The group number is applied with a shock stamp on the flange of the outlet windows. Such a division into groups within the drawing size (67 +0.03) is necessary for the correct selection of the clearance between the cylinder and the piston.

In the "Vortex-M" and "-30" engines, both cylinders represent a single block, cast (from an aluminum alloy) with purging and exhaust channels and a water jacket. Blanks for cylinder liners inserted into the block (Fig. 2 and 3) are machined from cast iron castings (cast iron grade SCH21-0). In them, the purge and outlet windows are milled, after which the sleeves are pressed into the bored block and the final processing of the mirror of each cylinder is performed.

The Vortex-M cylinders are divided into the same size groups as those of the Vortex (see Table 1). Since the working volume of the Vortex-30 engine is increased due to the increase in the cylinder diameter, the division into groups is made within the drawing diameter 72 + 0.03 mm (Table 2). The group numbers are applied with an impact stamp opposite each cylinder on the outlet flange or on the block lugs from the side of the outlet ports. The cylinders of the same block can have different group numbers: this means that their diameters are different (within the drawing tolerance) and the pistons must be selected separately for each cylinder.

The Vortex engine cylinders are attached to the crankcase by the flange with six short M8 pins; with pins located on the middle part of the crankcase, both cylinders are simultaneously attached using steel linings.

The Vortex-M cylinder blocks are also attached with six M8 studs, but long ones - passing through the entire block and pulling it together with the crankcase together with the cover.

The Vortex-30 cylinder block is attached to the crankcase with six short M8 pins.

The coordinates of the location of the studs on all models of the motor do not coincide due to the difference in the diameters of the cylinders.

The head block is also cast from an aluminum alloy; it has two combustion chambers with spark plug holes and channels for the passage of cooling water.

The engine head blocks of different models are not interchangeable. In "Vortex" it forms two combustion chambers together with the piston deflector and therefore has a reciprocal depression for it (Fig. 4). Head blocks "Vortex-M" and "-30" are identical in design, but different in connection dimensions due to the difference in cylinder diameters (Fig. 5).

The Vortex head block was produced in two modifications - one-piece (2.111-000) and one with a removable water jacket cover (2.111-700). The split head block consists of body 2.111-004 and cover 2.111-005, which is attached to the body by six screws 3181A6-1 with gasket 2.111-006. The one-piece block of heads is attached to the cylinders with 12 bolts 3017A8-36-18 (M8, length 36 with a thread length of 18 mm), detachable - 12 bolts 3001A8-52-18 (M8, length - 52, thread length - 18).

The Vortex-M head block is secured by six pins extending from the crankcase, and additionally by six short M8 pins screwed into the upper part of the cylinder block.

The Vortex-30 head block is secured with 10 M8 pins screwed into the upper part of the cylinder block. All fasteners are made of steel 30HGSA.

The pistons of engines of all Vortex models are cast from a special aluminum alloy and consist of a head that perceives the pressure of the combustion products and a skirt that guides the movement of the piston in the cylinder.

The piston skirt has ports for the passage of the purge mixture and holes for the piston pin, reinforced from the inside of the piston by nubs-bosses. In the upper part of the skirt, two grooves are made for the two piston seal rings. A steel stopper is installed in each groove to fix the ring in it against longitudinal movement. The place for the stoppers was chosen so that, firstly, the locks of both rings are not located on one straight line (in order to reduce the breakthrough of gases from the combustion chamber) and, secondly, so that the locks do not coincide with the liner windows in order to avoid the ends of the rings falling into windows and their breakage.

Pistons "Vortex" (Fig. 6) and "-M" (Fig. 7) due to the difference in blowing, despite the same diameters, are not interchangeable. Pistons "Vortex-M" and "-30" are identical in design, but different in diameter.

The outer cylindrical surface of the piston skirt has a complex generatrix and is machined according to a copy with control over diameters D₁, D₂ and D₃ (fig. 8), measured at different heights from the edge of the skirt.

Pistons of all models are manufactured with a breakdown by diameter into three groups; the group number is applied with a shock stamp on the piston head. Pistons of all groups are manufactured within the drawing size (tolerance) and are completed with cylinder liners corresponding to the number. The group is determined by diameter D₂most important and convenient for measurement.

Pistons "Whirlwind" until 1967 were produced more complete (Table 3) and with a groove width for the piston ring equal to 2.16 + 0.02 mm. In 1967, the clearance between the piston and the cylinder in the zone of the fire belt was increased by reducing the diameters D₁ and D₂... From the second half of 1968, the groove width was increased to 2.26 + 0.02 mm. The finally accepted breakdown of pistons 2.144-000 into groups is given in table. 4.

Initially, the Vortex-M pistons (4.144-000) were divided into groups by diameter similarly to the Vortex pistons (see Table 4). Then, from October 1971, the coordinate of the D2 measurement was changed from 50 to 49 mm, and the diameters became different (Table 5). Both of these modifications of pistons (their number is the same) were produced with a groove for a piston ring having a width of 2.0 m, that is, the grooves had the same width as the grooves of the Vortex piston (2.26 + 0.02). Since December 1971, larger piston rings (2.5 mm) have been used at Vikhr-M, and at the same time the end gap between the ring and the wall of the piston groove has been reduced to 0.1 +0.05 _-0,01 pistons with a breakdown into groups according to table.5 began to be produced with a groove with a width of 2.6 +0.02 and they were assigned No. 4.144-000 / 1.

All pistons for "Vortex-M" are interchangeable only complete with rings. When repairing, it is recommended to give preference to the latest release pistons with widened rings.

The pistons of the Vortex-30 engine (3.144-000) are similar in design to the Vortex-M pistons, but have an increased diameter and width of the groove for the piston ring (2.66 + 0.02 mm). The breakdown of the pistons into groups is given in table. 6; note that the diameter D₁, as in the case of Vortex-M, it is measured at a height of 49 mm from the bottom of the skirt.

Vortex pistons of all models are subdivided into three groups also according to the diameter D of the hole for the piston pin (Table 7); the color code of the group is applied from the inside to the piston bosses.

The piston pin is designed to pivot the piston to the connecting rod and transfer force from the piston to the crankshaft. The pin is a short steel tube (fig. 9) that passes through the upper connecting rod head and is installed at the ends in the piston bosses.

When the engine is running, forces act on the piston pin that tend to bend it; the surface of the pin is subject to abrasion against the upper connecting rod head and the piston pin boss. Therefore, a finger made of mild steel is subjected to surface carburizing and quenching to a depth of 0.5-0.8 mm to obtain the required strength and wear resistance.

The finger used in Vortex engines belongs to the so-called floating type - it rotates not only in the upper connecting rod head, but also in the piston bosses. This nearly triples the pin surface area, which reduces wear and pin galling. Pin lubrication holes are made in both the connecting rod top and the piston bosses.

In the axial direction, the floating pin is fixed by two spring retaining rings, installed at its ends in special grooves of the piston bosses. During control inspections of the pistons, it is necessary to ensure the sufficient elasticity of these rings. If you do not pay attention to this, a malfunction of a trifling part can render the cylinder block unusable: when the engine is running, a finger will drop to the cylinder mirror and cut deep (sometimes up to 2-3 mm) irreparable grooves on it.

When selecting a piston pin, a part with a color index corresponding to the index on the piston boss is selected. The color index is applied to the end of the finger.

Piston pins for "Vortex" and "Vortex-M" are identical in geometry and are manufactured with a breakdown by diameter into three size groups. In the first batches of Vortex motors, the finger length was 60 -0.3 mm, and the diameter was 16 ± 0.012 mm, and within the diameter tolerance the fingers were divided into five size groups (Table 8).

Since the beginning of 1967, the tolerance for the diameter of the finger was reduced to 16 ± 0.007, and the fingers of the two extreme groups (blue and yellow indices) were no longer produced; at the same time, the length of the toe was reduced to 59 -0.4 mm. Such a breakdown by diameters is preserved at Vortex even now (Table 9). The same table shows a breakdown into groups and fingers "Vortex-M" and "-30".

As can be seen from the table, the diameters of the Vortex and Vortex-M piston fingers are different - the Vortex fingers are fuller by 0.008 mm. The division of fingers into groups for "Vortex-M" and "-30" is the same, but the length of the fingers of "Vortex-30" is greater and equal to 63.5 -0.3 mm.

Piston rings installed in the grooves on the piston skirt of any two-stroke engine have a double function - they seal the piston in the cylinder, preventing gases from escaping from the working chamber above the piston into the crankcase, and direct the heat flow from the piston head to the cylinder walls and further to the cooling water. In addition, the rings contribute to the uniform distribution of the oil deposited from the fuel mixture entering the crankcase over the cylinder mirror.

Two rings are installed on the pistons of engines of all Vortex models. Piston rings are cast from special cast iron in one piece, but have one cut, called a lock. The end surfaces of the ring are ground.One of the most important properties of a piston ring is its elasticity; its ring should not lose even at those high temperatures at which the piston operates.

In the free state, the gap in the ring joint is usually 5-7 mm. The ring inserted into the cylinder is compressed, the gap in the lock is reduced to 0.2-0.5 mm; due to its elasticity, the ring fits snugly against the cylinder wall, providing the necessary piston seal. The residual, so-called thermal gap in the ring lock is absolutely necessary, since otherwise, when the engine heats up and the ring expands, its ends in the lock will close and the ring will jam in the cylinder.

In the lock, the ends of the ring have a special recess, which includes a locking pin located in the piston groove. As already noted, on the Vortex engines, and initially the Vortex-M engines (see also the Pistons part), which have the same cylinder diameters, thin rings 2.0-0.01 wide were used _-0,03 mm (fig. 10).

Later, due to the fact that the "Vortex-M" engine is more forced than the "Vortex" engine, and has a high thermal intensity, in order to increase its motor resource, the width of the ring was increased to 2.5 -0.01 _-0,03 mm.

E. N. Semenov, R. V. Strashkevich.

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If it is necessary to disassemble the motor or its components, it is recommended to disassemble in the following sequence.
When disassembling, remember (it is better to write down) the position of the motor parts before disassembling, especially for small parts, since in some transitions their position is not reflected.
Disassembly should be performed only to the extent required by the purpose of disassembly.

8.10. Disassembly into units
1. Remove the fairing.
2. Disconnect and remove the carburetor throttle actuator rod.
3. Remove the carburetor throttle valve drive shaft.
4. Unscrew the gank and remove the bolt of the reverse link rod, unscrew the rod bushing, remove the pin.
5. Unscrew the screws securing the engine to the deadwood, remove the engine from the deadwood.
6. Remove the gasket from the deadwood. Remove torsion shaft.
7. Unscrew the screws securing the reducer housing to the stern tube, remove the reducer, remove the rubber grommet from the water pump casing, remove the water supply pipe from the stern tube.
8. Unscrew the bolts securing the suspension to the sternwood, remove the retaining plate and rubber gasket, remove the suspension.
Note. Further disassembly of the assemblies should be carried out in accordance with the relevant operations.

8.12. Disassembly of the deadwood
Remove the bracket axle, remove the suspension bracket, latch and gaskets.

8.13. Dismantling the recoil starter
1. Unlock and unscrew the nut, remove the bolt with a bracket.
2. Remove the bracket, spring washer from the bolt. Remove two pawls from the nests of the block.
3. Unfold the starter block by the cord so that the spring is loose.
4. Remove the spring engaging block by turning it clockwise. Remove the block.
ATTENTION! When removing the block from the housing, beware of the coil spring.

8.14. Disassembly of the gearbox
1. Unscrew the screws securing the water pump, remove the pump housing, impeller, pin and plate.
2. Unscrew the upper and lower plugs in the housing and gearbox cover and drain the oil.
3. Unscrew the gearbox cover fixing screws and the rod fixing screw (6, Fig. 4), remove the gearbox cover and the screw shaft with gears and bearings.
4. Remove the bearing cup, shims, gears, shift clutch, bearings from the shaft.
Note. When assembling, place the set of shims in its appropriate place (in thickness).
5. Remove the pinion shaft from the gearbox housing.
6. Rinse all parts in gasoline.

8.15. Disassembly and assembly of the Magdino base with mechanical breakers
Disassembly is carried out in exceptional cases;
a) complete wear of the interrupter textolite pads;
6) complete wear of contacts on the rack or breaker lever:
c) failure of the capacitor.
Disassembly sequence:
1) unscrew the screw nut of the breaker contact post;
2) remove the locking and adjusting washers from the axis;
3) remove the spring breaker lever without touching the connecting screw. The spring has an open groove at the point of attachment with a screw;
4) make the necessary replacement of parts;
5) grease the lever axis with CIATIM-201 GOST 6267-74 grease:
6) the assembly of the interrupting mechanism is carried out in the reverse order;
7) contact mismatch should be within 0.2 mm;
8) the leads of the coils and capacitors must be laid in accordance with the factory release in order to eliminate the possibility of rubbing against the cam or flywheel magnets.

8.16. Assembling the motor
Assemble the motor in the reverse (compared to disassembly) sequence. Before assembling the Cahors or assemblies, rinse all removed parts in clean gasoline and dry. When assembling, lubricate all surfaces of the parts with machine oil.
When setting the flywheel, lubricate the mating surfaces of the cones with MC-20 oil.
When assembling the engine, clean the joint planes of the mating surfaces of the parts from dried sealant and lubricate the planes with fresh bakelite varnish.
Tighten the nuts or bolts gradually, that is, the grinder is tightened to an incomplete effort, then the final tightening is performed.

With a large number of nuts or bolts in flange connections, tightening must be done diagonally, starting from those located in the middle, which will exclude skewing and warping of parts.
When assembling the starter, generously lubricate the spring with technical vaseline.
Be sure to place the previously supplied washers under the starter supports and check that the starter bracket does not reach the ratchet disc. The gap between the starter block and the flywheel is maintained at 7.5 ± 0.5 mm.
Before installing the flywheel on the motor shaft, lay a clean 1.5 mm thick gasket between the contacts of the chopper mechanism in order to prevent breakage of the lever pads.
After installing the flywheel on the motor shaft, remove the gaskets and set the gap between the contacts according to the section "Recommendations for the operation of the motor"

8.17. Instructions for replacing parts.
The internal diameter of the motor cylinders is divided into three groups, respectively, three groups of pistons are made.

For motors with a power of 25 hp.

Greetings to all. I don't have a photo of candles, I can describe them. On new candles, I burned the fuel tank without turning off the engine, after refueling it was not possible to start the engine. Having unscrewed the candles, I was surprised that there was no carbon deposits, the inner ezolator was pure white, as if only from the package, but there was no spark. I took out the capacitors from under the flywheel. Gasoline 80 oil 1 liter per 30 liters of gasoline as suggested by a friend who also has a Vortex30.

Added after 23 minutes
There is a great desire to understand the reason, but there is no clue who understands this. I myself really like to deal with technology.

Vovchik will spark on both, you unscrew the candles after trying to start them, they are dry. I bought a lawn A 14 I will try these.

Added after 12 minutes
Excuse me, I can't understand about the wires?

Good morning everybody. The candle, if at all, is white-insulator, then-I-don't understand how the engine worked at all. In addition to adjusting the float chamber, - there is a mixture enrichment screw, - it is located near the crankcase on the carburetor, at the bottom of the suction cable, - a screw with a cone and a SPRING - you screw it all the way and then backwards - 1-5.1-25, turns. This is provided that the capacity in other respects is normal. I personally check the spark on myself, on my finger, but you feel weak or normal, of course I twist the flywheel with my hands, and not with the starter, the candles are turned inside out. and konkrektno then everything should be HOCKEY. GOOD LUCK TO YOU.

Topic: Advise on Vortex25 - Repair, revision, maintenance of floating crafts - Boats and boats - Transport (vehicles) - Main section - Forums of the Open Club Petersburg Hunter

Friends.
Who needs to chat, knock on Skype!

kkk2005, Yes, the fact is that the vykhryusha does not start. I have always served him myself.I just tried to revive it in the summer, but it didn't work. What is the reason I can not understand, and there is not much time to mess around. I just wanted to give it to the service, but everyone disowns them.

Volkut, thanks for the contact. I'll call you tomorrow.

Well. what can you say.
zs I wonder what the price tag is bent.

A spark. electronic ignition or contact? Have you tried a 100% recipe (gasoline under a candle and full gas)?

zs Oh damn. how I didn’t mock these vortices. in due time. My last 30 went to junk with electronic ignition from a vase on the hall sensor

There would be another place to take the motor. And now I do not go to the dacha often. I understand that it's probably like a Zhiguli, you can change the dviglo under the window, as before, but I'm probably getting old.

pomeha78, quick start figachil in cylinders. I say I didn't even sneeze. There is a spark, but it seemed to me that it was weak, although on the air I should at least sneeze.

kkk2005, Alexander Genadievich, thanks for the reference, but I have read a lot on Vortex on this site. Yes, a lot of useful things, and it seems that he is not a fool himself, but that’s all he doesn’t start.

pomeha78, electronic ignition.

Over the years, a lot of things could have happened to the engine, since it did not start right away. The winter is long, if you want to figure it out, or to a friend for whom

Babies can be buggy and the spark of the wrong thing.

I can't even count how many times this little rattler put us in critical situations. Either in the middle of the night, 10 km from the shore, the spline cuts on the shaft, and not on the propeller, but in the engine, then the gasket of the block head will burn through, then the magneto will burn out.
But the good thing about Soviet products was that, as they said then, “with a hammer, a chisel and some kind of mother,” they could always be brought back to life. The same Whirlwinds and Winds, “died”, but even on one cylinder (with the candle turned out from the second), with a punctured head gasket, agonizing, they were able to hold out.

Friends.
Who needs to chat, knock on Skype!

Some recommendations of A.M. Lutitsky.

For many years and hikes, I always returned to the parking lot myself, under my Whirlwind. In the most unforeseen situations, I was mentally prepared for any unpleasant incident, and then technically. In field conditions, with appropriate preparation, it is possible to make almost any repair. It was necessary to repair both gearboxes and cylinder-piston groups, spools, restore cracked pallets from impact, and much more. Much has been learned from C&L, having tested a lot, left it unchanged, invented and designed a lot myself.

Why did I start with psychological preparation? Because on a hike you need to be ready for anything. My rule is to have everything you need with you. 11-13 kilograms of spare parts and tools will provide your peace and confidence and will never be superfluous, providing a 100% opportunity to return home without any help.

So, having everything you need on board will make you feel more confident. And with proper preparation of the engine, any breakdown will be easily and quickly eliminated. What is needed for this - see below.

Having done these operations, you will greatly extend the life of the gaskets, you will be able to have easy access to the most loaded parts of the engine - pistons, rings, fingers. You can easily replace them without removing the engine from the transom in any field conditions.

The same actions (as described above for Vortex-25) can be done with Vortex-20 and -30, taking into account the design differences of these engines. All these changes make it possible to clean the carbon deposits in 30 minutes, to change the piston rings in 40-50 minutes, and to change the piston group in 1.5 hours in any conditions.

Anatoly Mikhailovich LUTITSKY, Kiev, 08.05.99.

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Rebel »10 Oct 2011, 11:55

Giniral »10 Oct 2011, 13:07

Giniral "10 Oct 2011, 13:42

Rebel "10 Oct 2011, 14:19

Giniral »13 Oct 2011, 22:37

Giniral »13 Oct 2011, 22:44

Giniral »13 Oct 2011, 22:49

Giniral "13 Oct 2011, 22:52

Giniral »13 Oct 2011, 22:56

Giniral »13 Oct 2011, 23:00

Whirlwind is a brand of outboard motors produced by the Motorostroitel enterprise

(former Kuibyshev Association), located in Samara. These units are suspended and are intended for operation together with commercial and tourist vessels weighing not more than 130 kg.

Vortex 25 was one of the most demanded modifications of motors produced by Motorostroitel. However, these units are currently out of production.

The motor is built according to the classic scheme for this segment. The nodes in it are arranged vertically. The engine has a deflector blowing. In versions with the index "M" it is two-channel and loopback. Fresh mixture is injected through a special spool device equipped with disc textolite spools. All units of the "Vikhr" brand are created according to a similar constructive scheme. The main difference of the 25-horsepower model is the reduced bore, which affects the design of the pistons, muffler, cylinder blocks and attachment points. The mixture is ignited from the flywheel magneto.

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A stern tube (intermediate casing) connects the gearbox and the motor. On the transom of the vessel, the outboard motor is fixed by means of a clamp and a suspension equipped with elastic elements. The reducer of the Vortex 25 unit is single-stage and conical. Reverse and forward travel is provided by a reversible propeller drive. Also, the motor can idle.

Vortex 25 is equipped with a three-blade propeller. The transmission of rotation to the screw from the output shaft is carried out through a shear key and a damper. These elements are considered the weakest link in the chain. If the screw strikes an obstacle or a foreign object, the key is sheared, which protects the main elements of the motor from breakage. However, for further movement, the key will have to be replaced.

The engine is controlled remotely or by means of a tiller. The motor is equipped with a remote control connection point. The engine itself is covered with a casing that protects its elements from dirt and foreign objects.

The unit also includes a 12 V alternator, through which the batteries are charged and the running lights are powered.

The model can be operated in bodies of water with a depth of at least 0.8 m. The high power allows the engine to tow a water skier or move at a significant speed. The underwater part of the Vortex 25 unit is made of corrosion-resistant materials, so it can also be used in salt water.

Back and forward movement of the boat is provided by a reversible propeller drive. Do not use the motor without immersion in water.

Vortex 25 engine complete set:

• canister or fuel tank with a hose;
• battery 6ST-45;
• manual;
• remote control.

The specific fuel consumption of the engine is quite large. For an hour's drive, it consumes about 9-10 liters of fuel. At the same time, the model is not demanding on the quality of fuel. The fuel tank has a capacity of 22 liters. He himself is portable and can be located in any convenient place on the ship. The tank cap has a screw. During operation, it should be turned out a little so that air can freely enter the tank.

The 2-stroke 2-cylinder engine Vortex 25 has forced cooling by seawater. A special pump is responsible for this, which throws out part of the cooling water from the hole in the deadwood. To minimize noise, the unit is equipped with a muffler, which is an aluminum box with a water jacket for cooling.

The power supply system in the engine belongs to the carburetor type and has two adjusting elements. The motor owner can also set the idle speed.

Vortex 25 engine characteristics:

• working volume - 422 cc;
• rated power - 25 hp;
• compression ratio - 7;
• maximum rotation speed - 5000 rpm;
• cylinder diameter - 67 mm;
• dry weight - 48 kg.

Running in a boat motor is somewhat different from running in foreign engines. Oil and gasoline are mixed at a ratio of 1 to 20 (usually 1 to 25). The process itself takes longer than usual. At the same time, it is not recommended to run the engine in a barrel.

First, you need to turn the crankshaft with a starter 3-4 times, then turn off the choke. The initial start-up must be done with a small throttle opening (about 15 minutes).Then the revolutions should be gradually increased (40 minutes - at medium speed, 1-1.5 hours - by 75% of the maximum, 8 hours - at the maximum). After that, you can begin to fully operate the outboard engine using a fuel mixture of 1 to 25 (oil and gasoline).

The outboard motor Vikhr 25, despite the fact that its production has ended, is still being operated by many fishing enthusiasts from Russia.

Evgeny from Saransk bought a used engine. The thing turned out to be very good, but not without flaws. Water in the reducer, unreliable pump and weak candles did not add optimism. During the operation (3 years), the motor failed only once. The engine caught the package and turned it to a boil. The return journey had to be done with oars. A clear plus of the engine is that it runs on any fuel. Moreover, Vortex 25 even "swallows" diesel fuel. The performance of the motor is also off scale, and even a person who is poorly versed in technology can disassemble it and replace individual elements. There are also a lot of defects in the motor. From the first models of the brand in this unit, little has changed for the better.

Cyril, who lives in Magadan, called Vortex 25 "a living dinosaur." Even in comparison with the 30-horsepower model, it seems like a relic of the past. The only advantage of the unit is its reliability. The model works confidently at high and medium revs. But the unit does not like low revs with work "in tightness". You also have to constantly monitor the operation of the cooling system. When passing through sandy or silty shallow water, the intake holes are regularly clogged. There were cases when turning the screw manually in the opposite direction turned the petals of the pump impeller. The rest of the Vortex 25 is quite a normal car. With a set of gaskets, nuts, a set of wrenches, cotter pins and wire, almost any problem can be repaired anywhere. Moreover, the engine rarely fails on the move. Despite its gluttony, the engine "eats" almost any gasoline, and the power does not suffer from this. Almost always, the unit starts up easily, although the model has more than enough problem nodes. The lack of spare parts should also be attributed to significant disadvantages. Vortex 25 motors have not been produced for a long time, therefore it is quite difficult to purchase spare parts for it now.

It is not possible to buy a new outboard motor Vortex 25 now, since its production ended long ago.

A used version of the unit is still on the market. Their cost ranges from 10,000 to 25,000 rubles.

Video (click to play).

Outboard motors Sea-Pro T 25, Privet 25, Moscow 25A and Neptune 25 can be considered analogues of the Vortex 25 engine.

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