DIY repair mitsubishi colt 2005

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Mitsubishi Colt 2005 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

2005 Mitsubishi Colt. He came to our car service with a problem: “It somehow works incomprehensibly… poor throttle response, shudders…”.
The client asked for a “comprehensive motor diagnostics”, as he was not satisfied with the engine operation.

It’s not a question, as they say: I did a “check in a circle”, determined that the candles needed to be replaced - I replaced them and carried out other mandatory technical operations with these symptoms.

When I was inspecting it, I noticed with my peripheral vision that there was no fender liner on the car. Moreover, the fender liner is “front-left”.

Front left wheel arch liner (around the wheel).

And this immediately strained: just in the same area in the engine compartment is the engine control unit.

From work experience I know that if there is no such a fender liner, or “there is a fender liner, but there is no flap,” then the dirt from under the wheels (mud, snow and this incomprehensible mixture that is poured on our Moscow roads), all this safely gets inside the motor compartment and, consequently, on the control unit.

Sometimes even to the point that the unit simply went out of order (not instantly, of course, but gradually).

After replacing the spark plugs and carrying out other standard maintenance work, the engine began to work correctly, without jerking or dips when picking up speed.
The work is done.

The work is finished - it seems, but ... I don’t know what others are doing, but I decided to overexert myself and bend over, remove the control unit and look at it.
Agree: unnecessary work! The client did not ask for this. And why then climbed?
I will say this: if I left the control unit without inspection, then it would be uncomfortable inside myself. There is such a state.
And you know, my guess turned out to be accurate!
Let's take a look at the photo showing the already removed control unit:

Video (click to play).

You can see for yourself that there is NO one pin at the top and left.
As they say, "he stupidly rotted and fell off."

Why, then, did the motor and other engine systems continue to work flawlessly?

This pin practically does not affect the performance of the motor, the pin is needed to program the control unit in “boot-mode” (when voltage appears on this pin, the control unit enters the reprogramming mode). By the way, I will give its name:

The rotten pin is the 136 contact.

And in conclusion, a few words.
He did his job, eliminated all the minor faults that upset the client and interfered with the operation of the motor.
But then I spent some more time to remove the control unit, examine it, find a rotten pin and warn the car owner that if he updates the software of the control unit, there may be problems. What kind of problems was shown by the rotten pin, without which reprogramming via the K-line would be impossible.

Keywords: “free”, “wasted extra time”.
THE BIGGEST question: why and why?
Did the client ask for it?
No, I didn't.
Did this rotten pin affect motor performance?
No, it didn't.
Then WHY?
Is this some kind of "charity" at the expense of your pocket and your time?
By the way, the client also tensed when I began to study the control unit, they say, he did not order this and will not pay for this work.

No need to pay.
This was done solely for my personal statistics and personal experience.
Now I am fully convinced that on this car, this year of release, problems may arise on the control unit associated with rotting of the pins.

However, not only on this car. Trace a thought?
Thank God, as they say, this rotten pin cannot affect the operation of the motor. And if I had turned off another pin, for example, 108th, 133rd or some other pin that affects the operation of the motor and its systems?

Therefore, I immediately want to voice a MEMO TO OWNERS of Mitsubishi Colt cars of 2005 release:
- went to nature, returned - do not be too lazy to bend over and look: are the fender liner and hatch in place?
- during the rainy season and in winter, CHECK REGULARLY for the wheel arch liner and hatch
- if you wash the car, then after washing, do not be too lazy to take a flashlight, bend over and carefully examine the condition of the fender liner: if there are cracks, chips, etc. - Immediately eliminate, postpone all your affairs and urgently look for these small, but very necessary parts of your car at auto dismantling stations.
These simple rules will help you save money and time.

We changed the oil in the engine again, I didn't buy it through a wholesaler, so it turned out to be expensive. It feels like the store is keeping statistics, and having bought from them 2 times before at the wholesale price, on the third they already break the price.

Shell HX8 4L 5W-40 oil - 1900 rubles

Oil filter MZ690115 - 335 rubles.

I ran into a dead dog and after the impact the right front wheel bearing hummed.

NTN / SNR AU08312LX3LX7L588 bearing - 1,750 rubles.

I think the bearing life in a taxi is excellent at 430 thousand km.

Shell HX8 5W-40 oil - 1800 rubles

Oil filter Mitsubishi MZ690115 - 320 rubles

air filter Asakashi - 330 rubles.

The mileage during this time was the largest for the entire period of work. In the first 9 days of work, I dashed off 7800 km. In just 3 weeks, apparently, 12600. There have never been such runs, and there will be no more hike.

We carried out MOT with our own efforts.

Change the oil in the engine and gearbox.

Shell HX8 5W-40 oil - 1720 rubles

Oil filter Mitsubishi MZ690115 - 310 rubles

oil for automatic transmission mitsubishi 4l dia queen atf spiii - 1660 rubles

I think the next interval between TOs will be the shortest in all the time, since over the next 4 days I drove 2900 km.

Shell HX8 5W-40 oil - 1680 rubles

Oil filter Mitsubishi MZ690115 - 440 rubles

Oil filter Kitto A3021 - 230 rubles

Cabin filter Bronco BRC0301 - 290 rubles.

Contact group of the steering column switch Henshel KMR583930 - 955 rubles.

Still, as was said, the sealing did not work. I had to change.

I changed the burned-out ring on the muffler and the gasket in the same place. I don't remember the articles anymore.

Spare parts came out 1000 rubles + work 1200.

I also replaced the steering rod.

I took Nipparts J 4843024 on the advice of the Koltklab and Yaritik. It costs 400 rubles.

Replacement of traction - 900 rubles. Resharpening 300 rubles. Collapse - 1200 rubles.

The chassis works like new.

Consumption fell to 7.5 liters per shift in the city. Was 8.3.

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I went to see some very good guys to glue the panels, as the interior resembles a rattle. We glued and soldered two front side panels, which just fell apart inside. The glove box was also glued and soldered, which was just awful. No longer rumbles on bumps. All locks and some of the rubber bands went through with silicone grease.

The fifth door (trunk lid) also rustled. Now it closes so solidly and the sound is very pleasant.

2 weeks ago, the signal disappeared, before that the airbag sensor lit up.

"The Lord made people different, and Colonel Colt made them equal" – spoken in America. We are talking, of course, not about the car, but about the inventor of the revolver, thanks to which the Indians fully mastered the advantages of civilization, and free citizens became even freer.

With the Colt car, everything is different: on the contrary, it helps to stand out from the crowd. Even this one - 1995, with a 1.3-liter engine. If not by drive, then at least by the cost and ease of maintenance: there is almost nothing to break here, and what breaks can be repaired for three kopecks or in the garage. Although there are some things that need to be monitored especially carefully. Let's see who might like this car and how not to go bankrupt for its owner.

The history of the model can serve as a prime example illustrating the history of the Japanese car industry. The first Colt, the 1959 Mitsubishi 500, was interesting only because it was Japanese, but almost never broke. Its serial production lasted from 1960 to 1962, until the Colt 600 was released.

This car was already a little more interesting, but still very far from the modern understanding of the car: a rear-engined layout, an air-cooled engine, rear-wheel drive and 25 hp. Agree, even for the sixties, all this is very modest. The next Colt 600, which was released in 1978, looked much better. There was already front-wheel drive, and even rear-wheel drive. Nevertheless, all of these machines belong to the first generation.

The second generation appeared only in 1984, and it was already quite a decent example of what someone respectfully calls "Japanese" or dismissively "Yap" in our country, but always remember that the quality of cars from the Land of the Rising Sun has gradually risen to a height unattainable for many. Already in 1983, the third generation appeared, which was appreciated all over the world: here the comfort was added, and the assembly became very good, and the reliability was beyond doubt.

If the first Colts remained a hatchback Lancer, now it was already a more or less independent car. Although, of course, in the 80s and in the 90s, he largely repeated his longer brother. The main drawback of the Colts was the rather cramped interior, which the Europeans could not appreciate too highly: they did not fit.

But the fourth generation Colts (1991-1996) and subsequent ones could already accommodate a person of almost any height (albeit only in the front seats). Our current machine belongs to the fifth generation, the production of which began in 1995.

In 2002, the sixth generation appeared, which was restyled in 2008. Note that the sixth Colts are assembled in Japan and Holland, restyling was carried out only in Holland, the Japanese cars remained the same. This Colt is no longer quite a Colt: the engines here are DaimlerChrysler, and the Orion 4G engines, which were produced in various modifications from 1983 to 2007, are not known to fans of the "Japanese".

Actually, we will begin to "pick" our Mitsubishi Colt CJ 1A from the engine. The year of production of our today's car is 1995, the engine is 4G13, the gearbox is a mechanical five-speed F5M41, the GL grade (that is, apart from the power steering, there are no benefits of civilization here). The mileage of the car is 194.5 thousand kilometers, of which only the last ten thousand he "ran" in the hands of the current owner. So, the key to the start!

The most common intervention in the 4G13 engine is replacing it with at least one and a half liter 4G15, because 75 hp. - this is, frankly, a little. This is not enough. But, oddly enough, this twelve-valve motor pulls well, even at the bottom (the maximum torque is 108 Nm at 4,000 rpm), and the engine produces maximum power at 6,000 rpm. In general, you can even drive fast enough with such a unit. But what pleases more - this motor is as simple as a two-year-old child's cunning. Let's start with the easiest job - changing the oil.

The only inconvenience is the need to climb under the car to unscrew the oil filter (by the way, a new one costs about three hundred rubles). Since the Colt does not differ in high ground clearance, some dexterity will be required. Well, or a rolling jack.

On the other hand, you still have to unscrew the drain plug, so you will have to crawl on your belly (more precisely, on your back) in any case. The owner of the Colt fills in Japanese oil 10W40, the cost of which is only one and a half thousand for five liters. Replacement will require no more than three and a half liters, but you should not be too happy about the large residue: you will have to add oil almost inevitably. And although this motor does not like to eat oil as much as its more powerful relatives of the Orion series, consumption can be quite high.

If we have touched on the topic of oil, then let's say one more important thing: oil drips on these units are possible from under the valve cover. It is easy to cause this gasket to leak on almost any engine by improperly tightening the cover bolts. On 4G13 motors, the matter is aggravated by the fact that the cover is very easily deformed, so if the owner is strong, but a little bad, then he can bend it. The advice is obvious: you should strictly follow the recommendations for tightening torque.

We will save about five hundred rubles on an independent oil change, therefore, cheerfully rubbing dirty hands, let's go and twist something else. For example, candles.

Replacing candles is no more difficult here than with a "chisel". We unscrew the old ones, screw in the new ones - we save from four hundred rubles, and at the same time we find out that the spark breakdown on the block is due to the fault of the very oil that flows through the valve cover gasket. Before unscrewing the candles, it is worth carefully wiping the candle wells, if possible: the dirt that can fall through the hole into the cylinder is not curative, the compression will not increase, the rings will not decoke, so it should be avoided getting into the block.

It is not too difficult to change the alternator and power steering belts (they are separate). In order to remove the alternator belt, you will need to loosen the mounting and tension bolts on the alternator; to remove the power steering belt, loosen the tension on the pump. Both mechanisms are available, and there is nothing to break. The cost of a generator belt is from 250 to 400 rubles, a power steering belt is about 300.

For replacing the timing belt in the service, they can take from two and a half thousand (if you're lucky) to seven (if you're not lucky, and even with pomp). A belt can be bought for 700 rubles, but it can be more expensive: this is not a thing to save on.

When I was inspecting it, I noticed with my peripheral vision that there was no fender liner on the car. Moreover, the fender liner is “front-left”.

Front left wheel arch liner (around the wheel).

And this immediately strained: just in the same area in the engine compartment is the engine control unit.

Sometimes even to the point that the unit simply went out of order (not instantly, of course, but gradually).

After replacing the spark plugs and carrying out other standard maintenance work, the engine began to work correctly, without jerking or dips when picking up speed.
The work is done.

You can see for yourself that there is NO one pin at the top and left.
As they say, "he stupidly rotted and fell off."

Why, then, did the motor and other engine systems continue to work flawlessly?

The rotten pin is the 136 contact.

MMC Colt 2005 release, mileage at the time of purchase - 53,232 km, at the time of writing - 76,650 km. Mileage per year - 23418 km. Engine - 1300 cc cm, power - 95 liters. sec., 6-speed "robot".

Choice... I chose the car almost by accident. I wanted something with a left-hand drive, with a guarantee, B- or C-class. Then two-year-old Colt turned up. After a minimal inspection and bargaining, the car was bought on February 2, 2008 for 330 thousand rubles. The balance of the guarantee was exactly one year.

The first owner was an Angarsk woman, respectively, the main run was on the Irkutsk-Angarsk highway. The car did not get into an accident, the cleanliness in the cabin is just perfect. The hostess honestly admitted that she "flew" over the dividing strip on the bypass road to Novo-Lenino. It seems without consequences. Later, when adjusting the "camber", it turned out that the rear right wheel was on the border of the "green zone".

Body very roomy - the feeling that the car is a class higher. This is achieved by a vertical seating position behind the wheel, hard and relatively thin seats. No one particularly complained about the rigidity in a year, but there were no long trips - no more than 150 km. The landing is quite comfortable for the back, but there is nowhere to fold the arms - the left one falls between the two protrusions in the door, there is simply no armrest for the right one. The salon is wide - two large men, 130 kilos each, did not touch each other with their hands. The rear seats fold down completely and can also be removed from the car.

Engine very controversial. On the one hand - he is "lucky", and how. I never felt a lack of traction or power. Overtaking on the track is not a problem. After 3000 rpm - just a beast. Consumption is a fairy tale: the minimum that I saw on the on-board computer is 5.4 liters per 100 km. I often take my children to Meget - it turns out

6-6.5 liters per 100 km. In the city in the summer - 7.5 liters with traffic jams. But in winter ... The engine is "meteorological". The fact is that the volume of oil in the engine is 4.5 liters: thanks to the phase regulator. There is no insulation in the car at all. So with plugs and warming up - up to 12 liters! But we must take into account that I travel mainly from Volzhskaya to the city center. That is, all traffic jams and traffic lights are "mine". One has only to go to Novo-Lenino or Yubileiny - the computer shows 8.5 liters. Starts up to -30 ° C on the first try. In January, there was a case when in the morning at a temperature of -3 ° C the car did not start. I "screwed up" the battery to the point of exhaustion and went to get the charger. Came back an hour later, just to see the temperature on the display, turned the key - the car started on the first try. The computer showed -31 ° С ... The charger was not required.

The robotic "mechanics" went to "Colt" from Smart. Also a very strange product. "Robots" scold for jerking when switching and thoughtfulness. There is no such thing here, the switching is fast and soft. But full of other nuances. For example, the Smart has a 0.66 liter engine. So, the box from him to the Colt was rearranged without changing the gear ratios and the number of the main gear. As a result, the 6th gear works confidently from 60 km / h ... However, in manual mode. In automatic mode, it turns on after 80 km / h. For overtaking, there is a mode similar to the "kick-down" on conventional machines: the pedal to the floor - and instead of 6th you go in 4th or 3rd gear. Although it would be enough to change one gear down. Acceleration is very vigorous, according to the passport - 12 seconds to a hundred, I did not measure it on purpose, but it looks like the truth.

On the run - tough! The Japanese supplied 195 / 50R15 tires. When buying, tires were in hernias, discs in cracks. Now there are 175 / 65R14 tires, plans to put 185 / 60R14, after all, in the corners I want to have wider tires. The view is difficult due to the wide A-pillars. Several times on

Cars were "hiding" at the T-shaped intersections on the right and left. Miraculously avoided accidents. Now at intersections I turn my head 2-3 times - body repair is now expensive. The rudder bagel is very comfortable. Moderately plump and small. Heated seats are instant, the mirrors are very large with no dead zone. The back door is almost vertical, which means it's dirty. There is no noise isolation at all, but thanks to the decent music, this is not a problem. But the fact that the head unit does not read MP3 is unpleasant. The electric power steering works smoothly, in my opinion - more pleasant than the hydraulic boosters.

Parking lots and crime ... The whole year the car stood on the street, for only three days I put it in a paid parking lot. In March, light-alloy wheels were removed near the house. I was upset, of course, but it was a good reason to change old tires and broken wheels. Now I go for punching, but I changed the diameter from 15 to 14 - I won in the smoothness of the ride.

"Right-hand drive Colt"... The "Colt" has a right-hand drive analogue - externally differs only in bumpers. There are much more differences under the hood and in the cabin. The motors are less powerful, and only the variator. The salon, for my taste, is much more comfortable and richer. The front seat is solid, in theory, three people can ride. Suspension parts are not interchangeable, but the unit "air conditioner radiator-radiator-diffuser" is replaced!

Dealer, warranty and maintenance ... I am satisfied with the dealer and the guarantee. After the purchase, the check came on. I went to the dealer, the verdict is either replacing the throttle assembly, or cleaning. We did the cleaning for free - the light didn’t come on anymore. Under warranty, three shock absorber struts were changed, and only because of drips (none of them knocked). The air conditioning compressor was replaced - a factory defect, a clutch (there was a manufacturer's recall) and a heating element in the back of the driver's seat. The only thing that confuses is the significant difference in the cost of parts when buying from a dealer and via the Internet. The first thing I bought online was the front brake pads. The dealer estimated the replacement at about 5,000 rubles. Selection by number on the Internet and replacement at the Bravo service station cost 1200 rubles. After the accident, I decided to restore the airbag. From a dealer - 28,000 rubles, bought it with delivery from a Japanese auction for 10,000 rubles. Conclusion: the network is good.

Accidents and repairs ... I got into an accident 4 times, with me this is the first time in 8 years of driving experience. It's a shame that everyone is to blame. A week after the purchase, I rubbed the right rear fender against the wall. Only peeled off the paint, but still haven't repaired it. Then we got used to Subaru. I was found guilty, although the injuries on both were barely visible to the eye.

A-class "Mercedes" was produced in the same body. It costs about twice as much as the Colt. But it is also much better equipped. Why did you remember about him? Because this is what I will try to buy next time. It is more powerful and more comfortable.

Auto - horror! In order: we bought a new one for mom. Interesting design, high seating position, low price (485 thousand rubles) attracted. Even in Colt, there is good ergonomics of the cabin, which, in turn, transforms well.

- Low profile rubber.To install winter tires, you need to buy new wheels for it, since low-profile winter tires are either very expensive, or they are not available at all;

- The wheelbase is small, so it gets in a rut on the track. On a long trip you get very tired;

- Very rigid suspension with short travel.

Now for the fun part:

- To change the low beam bulb on the left headlight, you need to remove the bumper;

- 50 thousand km - replacement of the front wheel bearing. Supplied only complete with a hub (price more than 13,000r, wait a couple of weeks). Still, I changed the bearing itself to a non-original one (800 rubles). To do this, in addition to everything else, a lathe was needed, since the hub is from a series of "non-separable", the ABS after that stopped working, since there is a special magnetic ring on the original bearing for the sensor;

- 60 thousand km - the wheel bearing hummed from the other side. The solution to the problem is the same as in the previous case;

- 50-60 thousand km - jump on the curb. It is necessary to change the steering rack thrust. The rod is naturally sold together with the steering rack! Well, it's worth, of course, a kick-ass. I picked up the rods from the Lancer, at the same time I had to change the steering tips;

- 70 thousand km - an airbag error caught fire;

- Replacement of the ball joint. It is sold “naturally” with a “golden” lever;

- Replacing the rear struts (I did not find any analogues, I put the original ones - 4700 for each);

- Somewhere starting from 30 thousand km, the reverse speed does not turn on. There is a shaman tambourine in the car. As you go around this basin ten times with him, the back one will turn on;

- Ugly made a light switch from near to far. Works on the principle of a trigger. In general, in the dark, in order to blink the oncoming driver, the lever must be pulled twice. 1st - to turn on the far, 2 - to turn off;

- I had to ride the Colt myself in the winter. When driving through a snowdrift, so as not to get stuck, I turned on the first gear of the manual mode and at high (4-4.5 thousand) rpm I tried to overcome the obstacle. What do you think? Colt “thought” that the driver was stupid and, in spite of the manual mode of the box, switched to the second one. Bottom line: stuck in a snowdrift for a long time. By the way, the robot box is squalor. Thinks for a long time, when switching sharply drops the gas, and then also sharply adds traction. To accelerate from a standstill to 40 km / h, the car switches three speeds (6-mortar box), and this happens in jerks, as if a driving school cadet is trying to master a car with a manual gearbox;

- 90-100 thousand km - the bearing of the air conditioner compressor pulley is jammed. "Naturally" the bearing seat turned out to be plastic, as well as the pulley itself. While I decide - to grind a new pulley or adapt a new compressor. How much is the original, did not even try to find out;

- 100 thousand km - a box refused on the road. Tow truck before diagnostics. It turned out that there is a small motor on the clutch activator, in which there is a small worm gear shaft that has broken. Of course, the motor is not sold separately. A complete node costs 23.000r (with a discount). You can, of course, restore the worm. But it is very problematic, and no one will undertake the service. The car has been standing for two weeks. I hope to overcome this breakdown on my own;

- In addition, sometimes the car is stupid for no reason. At full throttle in neutral it produces no more than 2 thousand revolutions - the thrust disappears almost completely. If you turn off the engine, then after 15 seconds some relay clicks under the panel, and after that everything falls into place (if you're lucky, then the first time). A trip to the branded service on this matter, apart from the money spent, did not give any result. By the way, from a conversation with the manager I learned that all of the above troubles are not only mine and are often found on other copies.

I will not focus on such trifles as replacing the fuel pump.Since even buying a windshield wiper develops into a whole story with an order, prepayment, waiting. By the way, do not be lazy to find out how much this seemingly simple detail costs. Well, in the end, about consumables. Rear brake pads only fit original ones. They cost about 4 thousand. Against 700-900 for a normal foreign car.

Summary: Colt is an extremely unrepairable car. Requires oh-oh-a lot of money to buy spare parts. 15-20 times more than Toyota, Volkswagen. Spare parts only to order (in Samara). Every minor breakdown gives a lot of headaches.

2006 mitsubishi colt everything was done in a couple of minutes from the car.

This video was processed in the YouTube Video Editor (https://youtube.com/editor) Polishing Mitsubishi Colt headlights.

The process of adjusting the valves on the 4G92 SOCH 16 valve Mitsubishi Colt V engine with a file.

Changing the oil in the box robotic mitsubishi colt.

On 4 doors it took: Vibration isolation Practik 1.6mm 0.47mx0.75m (8 sheets) Noise isolation Practik Soft 6mm 0.5mx0.75m (8 sheets) Sign.

Identifying the problem Although somewhere they wrote that you can pull up like a vase.

Mitsubishi Colt 2008 - We put a two-way alarm system DaVinchi PHI-330, glass closer interface, on two glasses and cameras.

Full video of the repair of the same BC .:

remade the rear seats, now it is convenient and comfortable to rest.

THROTTLE BODY TRAINING Mitsubishi Lancer Tsedia GDI 4WD (MITSUBISHI LANCER CEDIA) Group in VK:.

I am showing you how to remove the valve cover on a Mitsubishi Colt.

Mitsubishi headlight today. How to replacement headlights a blown bulb low beam lump Mitsubishi colt, which burns out most often. 12V-55W (H7) HALOGEN.

Change the timing belt to Mitsubishi Colt.

We are looking for the cause of the combustion of engine control units.

Repair of the switch and cable of the direction of air Mitsubishi colt plus 2008. Japanese.

It is a well-known fact that the Colt has weak spars, driving on our roads, and even yours, leads to deformation and cracks.

Before starting work, DISCONNECT the “MASS” battery cable to avoid damage to the vehicle and injury due to short circuits.

Use protective covers to protect the body, seats and floor mats from damage and dirt. Do not allow brake fluid and coolant to get on the car body, as they can damage the paintwork.

Use only the serviceable tool recommended in this manual.

Do not reuse cotter pins, gaskets, O-rings, lip seals, lock washers or self-locking nuts. When assembling the units, it is necessary to replace them with new parts. Otherwise, the normal operation of the units cannot be guaranteed.

To simplify and speed up the assembly of units, neatly store the disassembled parts in separate groups.

Do not confuse the different mounting bolts and nuts as they differ in strength and design depending on the installation location.

Clean parts from contamination before inspection or installation.

Oil system parts must also be cleaned and blown out with compressed air to remove all contamination.

Lubricate sliding and rotating surfaces with light oil or grease before mounting parts.

Use sealant in conjunction with gaskets to seal oil or operating fluids, if necessary.

Carefully observe the torque requirements for bolts and nuts.

After completing maintenance or repairs, carry out a final check to ensure that all operations have been carried out correctly and that the fault has been rectified.

Autoliterature, Manuals for the repair and operation of cars "Mitsubishi" Mitsubishi Colt (Z3 #) 2005-2008 Repair manual for service stations

Mitsubishi Colt (Z3 #) 2005-2008 Workshop Service manual The repair manual for service stations contains: a detailed manual for the maintenance (including wiring diagrams) and repair of the Mitsubishi Colt 2005-2008 model year. All technical information is presented in English. Disks CZ2E06E1CD (2006), CZME05E3CD (2005), CZ2E07E1CD (2007) and CZME08E1-CD (2008) in MUT - III format. To view it, you must have the MUT-III shell.

Year / Date of Issue: 2005-2008
Version: CZ2E06E1CD (2006), CZME05E3CD (2005), CZ2E07E1CD (2007) and CZME08E1-CD (2008)
System requirements: Windows xp, windows 7. Internet explorer 6-7. Acrobat reader.
Interface language: English
Tabletka: Not required
Add. information: To view it, you must have the MUT-III shell.

We present to your attention a book on the repair and operation of New Colt, the book contains information about our forum

Mitsubishi Colt.
Models since 2004 with petrol engines 4A90 (1.3 L) and 4A91 (1.5 L).
Device, maintenance and repair.

Legion-Avtodata publishing house. 2010 r.

A more detailed description can be found here

It is forbidden to post links to electronic versions of this book. In case of violation of the ban for a month

Mitsubishi Colt books and manuals for free

Service manual Mitsubishi Colt

- Mitsubishi Colt repair in photos
- the components and assemblies of the car are described in detail
- do-it-yourself troubleshooting of typical Mitsubishi Colt malfunctions
- colored wiring diagrams

Mitsubishi Colt Owner's Manual and Service Manual

- operation manual
- Mitsubishi Colt service manual
- trouble-shooting
- interactive wiring diagram

Mitsubishi Colt Wiring Diagram

- pinout of electrical connectors Mitsubishi Colt
- features of electrical equipment
- elimination of malfunctions of electrical equipment
- detailed electrical diagram

Mitsubishi Colt parts and assembly units catalog

- table of interchangeability of Mitsubishi Colt car parts
- intended for service station workers and car owners
- parts catalog

Repair manual for Mitsubishi Colt engine

- full technical specifications of the Mitsubishi Colt engine
- design features and engine repair
- DIY Mitsubishi Colt engine troubleshooting
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the engine with photographs

Mitsubishi Colt gearbox repair manual

- full technical characteristics of the checkpoint
- design and repair features of the checkpoint
- troubleshooting of the check point and transmission of the Mitsubishi Colt car
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the Mitsubishi Colt gearbox with photographs

Mitsubishi Colt Injector Error Codes

- description and diagram of the injector
- decoding of engine fault codes
- elimination of injector malfunctions
- pinout of injection and wiring

- tuning Mitsubishi Colt with your own hands
- engine tuning, body tuning, suspension tuning
- multimedia tuning guide

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Published: 21 Mar 2017
Contacts: Ukraine, Zaporozhye, 0982032828 Valentin
I shot a detailed video about the next repair of the BC. Since the old video was incomplete and a viewer who did not know Russian asked a question. Like where you can buy that liquid to also anoint and it all worked. 🙂
Link to the first video: ruclip.com/video/X7jQIG1dqcw/video.html&index=9&list=PLJIzh3mSOGAs-eNSRgL6pHIoODkDXq57Q
Science and technology

How will you be contacted. transfer for repair.

Good afternoon, author! They treated me a similar problem, everything is fine. But for a couple of weeks I noticed that the time settings were flitting. Could there be a problem in the bookmaker itself?

I gave it for re-soldering - everything now works stably.

this is the initial stage, for 2 months my time got lost, and then the BC began to go out, and a month later he finally died

check if power is lost in the on-board network

The BC itself works fine, but the clock is reset when the machine is powered on, but not every time, but in some chaotic manner.

gave on soldering bk mitsubishi colt Valentine did everything quickly and with high quality I recommend.

I'm sitting thinking if you were in Ukraine!)) And at the end of the video. oops)

Well done. Like. Regarding the connection: I found ruclip.com/video/3qdATbDyjYM/video.html from the Turkish masters at 2:00 am connected without a car.

And to the point, there only the clock lights up. If all the segments of the display could be checked.

Thank you, I coped with the same problem thanks to you, the compound was washed with nail polish remover.

Today I gave this garbage to the plumber, The guy is adequate, he does well, I will unsubscribe after the alteration, Seversk, Tomsk region

what exatctly are u using ?? from 6:10 that blue stuff

YES, it works like a charm, I did exactly like you !, Thank you!

Thank you. Will do the operation tomorrow

and at 2:54? what is that please?

by the way, if the native head unit from the 6th generation Mitsubic Colt is buggy, it does not seem to catch the radio, volume is not added, etc., it is treated by the same method, only there you need to solder the percent from the radio, the principle is the same

Stupidly with a 60 W Chinese soldering iron, only the main percent was soldered. There was no compound, a 2005 computer.
There is no point in soldering the display driver if the indication is correct, so it did not climb.
And the connectors also had to be soldered, there were some microcracks. Didn't like it. Soldered just in case.
All work for 15 minutes, it took longer to figure out how to shoot BC.
The power converter whistles (hums slightly), this is normal

Could somebody who speak english tell me which are the products used in this video? Thank you.

Blue varnish - Tsapon Lak. Solvent - Gasoline uses "galoshes". I use isopropyl alcohol.

No, it's expensive to call.) It is necessary to discuss the details somehow.

Tell me there are straight-handed people like you from Russia. Same problem. Or is there an opportunity to send to you?

Can I contact you? Write the phone number!

I think there are many, but I am not familiar. You can probably send it, just find out how. I have a mother-in-law in Moscow, but when she comes to visit I will. :-))

And why, after all, they poured it with varnish, it will not save it from shaking, but it will cause a lot of trouble for the next master, it would be better if the edges were dripped with glue from the Teramo pistol, it is also more elastic, etc.

Video (click to play).

Well, yes, it’s like they’re pouring it in at the plant, but we are, as always, smarter than Japanese engineers.

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