Do-it-yourself pump btsn repair

Centrifugal pumps are the most common type, used as surface and submersible equipment. This is because they have a fairly simple design and relatively high performance.

But, unfortunately, like all equipment, the pumps break down and require maintenance. Repair of centrifugal pumps should be carried out in a specialized service center, but in some cases, maintenance can be done independently and at home.

The name of the devices unites a large class of products that, depending on the manufacturer and design, must be serviced in different ways. Accordingly, the options for breakdowns and repairs of a centrifugal pump of one subspecies have significant differences from the subspecies of another.

In order to repair the water pump, without reducing the performance, you should clearly understand its structure, the presence of features. For this, a diagram and a list of components and spare parts are included in the product along with the documentation.

In the process of finding out the operation of the pumping equipment, it is possible to determine almost all the malfunctions of centrifugal pumps.

Centrifugal pump device

Powerful centrifugal pumps for lifting water to high heights and delivering it with high pressure are recruited from the sections. An example of such a sectional representative is a submersible submersible pump.

Centrifugal pump parts:

• responsible for the created pressure - the impeller - driven from the shaft of the electric motor, creates a centrifugal force to suck in and push the water mass into the supply and distribution pipe.
• driving the entire structure of the pump is an electric motor, which by the way is also a drive for both internal and external cooling.
• containing the components - the body - protects against damage during operation, assembly / disassembly.
• auxiliary structural elements - seals, oil seals, bearings, bushings, thermal protection - directly affecting the correct, quiet and high-quality operation of pumping equipment.

In principle, when starting a centrifugal pump, an electric drive rotates the rotor shaft, on which a pump impeller with blades is fixed. Rotating, the structural element creates centrifugal force, moving water between the blades and pressing it against the edges of the cylindrical chamber (glass). Under the influence of force, the liquid moves from the working chamber to the branch pipe of the general water supply system. In this case, a new portion of water comes from the supply pipe by creating a suction vacuum at the pump inlet.

It should be understood that the presence of water at the inlet is necessary, since the pump does not run "dry", since the liquid pumped through it is its main cooler. Without cooling, structural parts will overheat and show incorrect operation right up to failure. This is especially true for submersible pumps, for which it is physically impossible to organize air cooling.

Professional repair of industrial centrifugal pump

Air cooling is organized in surface representatives of this type of equipment. In pumping devices, the drive motor is equipped with a fan impeller, which drives air flows directly over the body surface, which additionally removes the heat generated by the operation of the mechanism.

A feature of centrifugal equipment is the recommendation to work with clean water without inclusions and impurities that can affect the functionality and duration of high-quality work. So large particles and sand can clog the inlet channels, the working chamber, block the vane impeller, which will invariably disable the pump or significantly affect the output head power. Reducing the number of such hits inside the product will increase its life and simplify maintenance.
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To reduce the cost of pump maintenance, a visual inspection of the entrusted equipment should be carried out at least twice a year. Breakage is easier to prevent than to fix later.

1. if the pump is submersible, remove it to the surface. Perhaps this will be a rather difficult task and you cannot do without help, but in the future it will prevent even more troubles.
2. after lifting it is necessary to inspect the fastening and visually verify the integrity of the cable connections and the housing integrity, contamination and corrosive areas. If in doubt, be sure to check to avoid repeating the first point again.
3. the correct solution during the check would be to start the device for a short period of time and listen - the noise in operation will signal possible malfunctions.

Work with periodic inspection significantly postpones the overhaul of centrifugal pumps with possible significant costs. The presence of silt or sand on the pump will be the first signal that the water source is silted up and the need for action to clean or swing it. Failure to do so will result in equipment damage.
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Disassembling the connected pump is prohibited by BEEP and safety regulations. It is necessary to de-energize your device exactly like all the automation and protection belonging to it, and, only after making sure of this, start work.

Centrifugal pump impeller grinding

The repair process is briefly described as follows:

• disassembly is carried out after pulling the pump out of the water on a clean smooth surface so that there is no loss of connecting elements and parts of the structure. For reliability, all dismantled parts of the device should be signed / numbered. The whole process can be accompanied by photographic or video recording;
• by visual inspection, find worn-out elements and replace them having previously purchased from the manufacturer or an equipment dealer. Only a fully compliant analogue will provide further safe operation;
• clean other structural elements and, if necessary, add lubricant;
• assemble the equipment in reverse order and check its performance. If the user has forgotten how to connect the pump back to the water supply system or to the mains, these actions must be coordinated with the supplied diagrams and instructions in the instructions.

Centrifugal equipment malfunctions are divided into:

1. mechanical damage and deformation;
2. management malfunctions.

According to the statistics of equipment services, breakdowns are frequent due to the fault of inept device users, as well as due to non-conducting technical inspections, cleaning equipment from contamination.

Defective assembly failures, as well as wear of parts over time, belong to mechanical ones.

The product defect is detected almost immediately, perhaps even when it is first connected to the network. In this case, you should exchange the device under warranty from the seller.

When some elements are worn out, the pump:
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A worn hose or supply pipe can be an elementary problem. But this diagnosis is also characteristic with a worn out or displaced impeller.

Cleaning the submersible centrifugal pump

Replacing the repair kit, which includes seals and a worn element, will help to return the pump to the desired mode.
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The simplest problem can be cavitation processes in the working chamber of the pump, or simply airing. The downside in the design is the impossibility of operating the pump without water, even a short period of time of such work can significantly harm the pump and disable it.

More difficult is the failure of the bearings of centrifugal pumps. With a working unit, the start and stop of the centrifugal pump are smooth, without unnecessary noise. If there is a problem, it is necessary to disassemble not only the pump compartment, but most likely the motor part.

After replacing bearings, check all bushing parts of the pump that could cause a problem and use a repair kit.
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Equipment can "catch a wedge" when large debris gets into the hull, clogging the water path with sand and silt. To restore the functions of the product, the water passages and intakes should be cleaned.

If there is a worn out structural element that interferes with normal operation, it should be removed and replaced with a new one.
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In this case, the sealing materials are definitely to blame and their urgent replacement is needed. An excellent indicator of problem areas can be corroded areas on the product body.

Repair of a submersible centrifugal pump

The control system malfunctions include:

1. problematic power supply;
2. operating mode without water;
3. broken electric drive.

Broken insulation is the main cause of poor contact, wire damage and failure of the pumping unit.

To avoid working without water, special level control sensors are installed, which help to turn off the pump in dangerous positions for it. Their failure leads to damage to the drive.

A non-working drive motor is a complex breakdown that can be solved by service workers or a reason to buy a new centrifugal pump.
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For watering a vegetable garden in the country, and residents of rural areas for all domestic needs, household electric pumps are often used. They are surface and submersible. Surface pumps include Agidel, BTsN, etc. For submersible pumps - the well-known "Kid" and the like, as well as submersible pumps. Sometimes they (pumps) have a bad tendency to fail, i.e. break down. Let's try to repair them ourselves, with our own hands.

Surface pumps.

The pump is silent, does not work.

The first thing to do is to check if voltage is supplied to the electric pump. Check that the electrical outlet is working. If the socket is working, unscrew the cover on the pump, where the power cord goes. Using a test lamp or an electric tester, check the presence of voltage on two contacts where the wires of the electrical cord fit. If there is no voltage, then we repair the power plug and the power cord. If there is voltage, then we check the capacitor and the thermal relay. We check the thermal relay using an electric tester (multimeter), setting it to the minimum resistance. De-energize the electric pump, connect the tester probes to the two contacts of the thermal relay. If the relay is working properly, the buzzer of the electronic tester will emit a sound signal. If there is no signal, the relay is faulty. Unscrew the relay cover, inspect it and clean the contacts. If you could not eliminate the malfunction, then replace the current relay.

Replacement of oil seals on the pump.

If water gets under the oil seal, it must be replaced. The electric pumps have a control hole, the appearance of water from which tells us that the oil seal is damaged. Let us consider the replacement of the oil seal using the example of the “HELZ” electric pump. We disassemble the pump itself. Unscrew and remove the cover. Then we remove the impeller. We unscrew the cover of the electric motor, which contains the oil seals (2 pcs.). The cover must be removed carefully without damaging the motor winding. Carefully knock out the oil seals from the cover. The main thing is not to damage the cover, the oil seals will no longer be useful to us. Both need to be replaced. Using a tube of the appropriate diameter, we install the first oil seal in the cover. This must be done with extreme caution, without damaging it. Lubricate it with graphite grease. We insert a plastic gasket. Then we install the second oil seal, lubricate it.

- Putting the electric pump in reverse order.

The electric pump began to “pinch” you (breakdown). Damage to the insulation.

Check that the electrical outlet, plug and cord are working properly. Unscrew the cover on the electric pump where the capacitor and thermal relay are located. Check them out. Inspect the insulation of the wires, the connection If you did not find anything, then the insulation breakdown occurred inside the electric motor. A workshop for the repair of household electrical appliances will help you.

Submersible electric pumps.

These pumps will be more difficult to deal with. They work in water, so they are not subject to home repairs. The only thing that you can do yourself is to check the serviceability of the plug and power cord. The electrical cord must be checked by unscrewing the cover on the electric pump, where the cord enters. You can check its serviceability using an electric tester or a warning lamp.

The Soviet-made BTsN 3/17 pump was inherited
Went through, there were problems with the capacitor box - eliminated.
The water surface is only 2.7 meters, the depth of the well is 4 meters, the intake pipe is 32 mm with a check valve at the end at a depth of 0.5 meters from the bottom. I pour water into the intake pipe and, as you can see from the photo, 4 liters into a bottle without a bottom, I turn it on, it works, it pumps water from the bottle, I close the tap under the bottle, it doesn't pump it from the well. What is the problem I cannot understand. Tell me who knows, I will be very grateful.
PHOTO here [

Vadim 65 wrote:
Tell me who knows, I will be very grateful.
R.S. I can't insert a photo.

Try to insert a photo through ”> it does not work out badly.
And BCN Kharkovsky of various modifications, until recently, was the main irrigation and water supply "force". I still have it in the bath. I don’t remember when we stopped filling the pump. a working pipe, usually plastic, is attached to the suction pipe. the outlet pipe, usually rubber, must be raised above the pump. We take all this in our hands and sharply raise and lower the pump, when the water fills the pump, turn it on. should swing. My father bought and installed the first BTsN pump in 196 some year. So he did not connect the starting winding correctly, and he turned in the opposite direction, the pump was pumping, but it was bad, I noticed it, my father corrected it, began to pump remarkably. Already at the end of the eighties it was replaced by Kharkovsky, and the first was "Kabansky". So if it turns correctly, holds the oil seal, and the above requirements are met, it should swing. and also, for sure the pump B.U. take a look at the impeller, the lower part of the impeller may be clogged or peeled off, there, for some reason, the aluminum rivets oxidize and crumble. riveted with aluminum wire more than once.

Yes, this is the BTSN of the first releases, the starting capacitors are in a separate aluminum block, later they were made without a cooling fan. in its place are capacitors in a housing with a handle.

UV yes in the photo it's him, and thanks to LeonidS it turned out to insert a link to my photo, it can be seen more clearly there.
The release of 1976 on the capacitor box says BCN 3/17, the price is 50 rubles.
I did not understand the advice> We take it all in our hands and sharply raise and lower the pump,

, because the pump is rigidly fixed to the well, or the outlet pipe? But it is plastic, quite tough and by the way with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 50 meters - is this normal?
And where the oil seal is, probably under the impeller, but I could not remove it. It looks like it’s normal, it didn’t work to take it off, it seems to be fastened in the center with a screw, but it’s aluminum and the slot on it is hammered, maybe you can drill it out or what are the options?

Vadim 65 wrote:
there you can see more clearly.

In order for us to see your photo, we need to highlight the link below the inscription: Preview for forums - click-to-enlarge: copy and paste into the text of the message, somewhere like this.
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This is my irrigation pump, part of the working pipe is made with a high pressure hose, so that you can pump water into the pump.and the outlet is made upward, so that there would be a supply of water above the pump, if the valve keeps the pump constantly with water. I do not advise you to copy my performance, but the outlet pipe must somehow be raised above the pump. The oil seal is located between the impeller and the engine. The impeller is fastened with an aluminum nut, unscrewed by a head or end barbed by 19, if the splines are clogged, be sure, buy a spare nut in the utility room, they sell from us, and you must have "Barabashevo" from you and from us, probably at the same distance

... But first, you can check the oil seal, attach a hose to the pump outlet and fill it with water, lift it up. If water seeps through the gland, change “definitely”.
The length of the pressure pipe is as much as 50 meters, this is nothing, for a centrifugal pump engine it is worse if the diameter of the suction hose is underestimated, just performance. the longer the less.
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I see about a dozen connections at the suction. Vadim 65, are you sure that no air is being sucked in through this ten?

In order for us to see your photo, we need to highlight the link below the inscription: Preview for forums - click-to-enlarge: copy and paste into the text of the message, somewhere like this.

I tried to do so, but it does not work, writes an "incorrect file" for some reason.

I see about a dozen connections at the suction. Vadim 65, are you sure that no air is being sucked in through this ten?

I certainly don't see so much, but I'll try to get to the oil seal and change it. How I will do - I will write. In the meantime, thank you all for your help.

Vadim 65 wrote:
I certainly don't see so much, but I'll try to get to the oil seal and change it.

I can't tell you where the vacuum disappears, you can only find it yourself, but show a dozen visible connections, please:

A high pressure acts on the gland of a centrifugal pump, you will find out about a faulty or serviceable cuff after the pump raises the pressure in the pressure pipe.

Try to raise the water from the minimum depth with the pump. Measure the exhaust pressure. According to the declared and received figure, it will be possible to judge the real capabilities of the pump. If necessary, it will be possible to look for the cause not in the suction pipe with a bunch of connections, but in the impeller and its interfaces.

Please tell me how the cuff on this pump should look like?

Vadim 65, in such cases as yours, in my opinion, the following should be done:
1) disconnect the pump from all pipes;
2) assemble the system as simplified as possible - a piece of steel pipe at the inlet and a bent piece of pipe at the outlet (1 meter is enough), screw the outlet pipe with a slope so that the fountain does not pour on the pump, and, of course, a check valve at the end of the inlet pipe ;
3) fill this system with water through the open end of the outlet pipe;
4) lower the check valve of the inlet pipe into a container with water (even a 10L bucket will go).

Well, and accordingly make sure - if there is a pressure, it means that somewhere there is a leak in your main system. Well, if not, then the oil seal is kirdyk.

LeonidS wrote:
But first, you can check the oil seal, attach a hose to the pump outlet and fill it with water, lift it up. If water seeps through the gland, change “definitely”.

I agree with Leonids, this is when it's really, so to speak, a frank kirdyk to the oil seal.

But if the gland is not so kirdyknulsya, then a malfunction of the gland is possible, but with a more complicated technique (also with a pump disconnected from your system):
1) put a plug on the inlet (naturally threaded, for example, a small piece of pipe welded on one side);
2) connect a hose connected to the central water supply to the outlet from the pump.
And in the “hour of good pressure” to see if water will come out in the oil seal.

Actually, personally, I am inclined that with such a "respectful age" (apparently, even more than 25 years) of the pump, the version about the need to replace the stuffing box is usually in the very first place.

Well, of course, you have too many connections at the input. I would give preference to replacing threaded connections with welded ones as much as possible.

The fact that water “pumps” from the filler bottle does not mean that it is sucked in by the pump. it can go by gravity into the pump. therefore it may seem that the pump seems to be pumping.

The centrifugal pump is one of the most reliable devices used for pumping liquid.

It also features high efficiency and minimal ripple.

However, even such a pump can break, even if it is used correctly. If the normal operation of the liquid pumping system is disrupted, you need to know that the reason for this should not always be sought in the pump. Its verification should be undertaken only after excluding other possible reasons.

In order for malfunctions to begin to arise as late as possible, you should adhere to the rules for operating the equipment:

1. Before turning on the unit, fill its entire working container with liquid.
2. Do not allow the suction port, protective screens and pump impeller to become clogged. For this purpose, a coarse filter is installed in front of the device.
3. Avoid overloading the motor by limiting the fluid supply using a special valve that is placed on the outlet pipe.
4. Make sure that the shafts of the water pumps rotate in the correct direction.
5. Do not allow the suction lift to exceed the permissible level.
6. The suction pipe should have as few insertions and bends as possible, its inner diameter should be as large as possible and its length should be as short as possible.
7. If the length of the suction line is long, then it should be laid with a slope towards the place where the liquid is pumped. If it is impossible to ensure a slope, the pump is installed at the highest point of the territory.
8. In the case of pumping any gas mixtures, the system must also include a vacuum pump.

Stop valves are installed on the discharge pipe, which regulate the supply force and ensure that the pump is disconnected from the pipeline during repairs.

The loosening of the fasteners first causes vibration and noise, gradually leading to malfunctions, and even complete destruction of the unit parts.

Do not allow the centrifugal pump to idle, as it will overheat and damage the engine.

If no external factors have a harmful effect on the pump, and it does not work correctly, or does not work at all, you should proceed to a thorough check of it.

The most common problem is the wear of the oil seals.

There are a number of reasons that speed up this process:

1. Uneven shaft movement, especially with frequent runout.
2. Unit cover bolts too tight. Best of all, glands cope with the task of sealing, if their moisture is sufficient, as can be judged by the seepage of liquid droplets through the packing.
3. Overheating of the engine.
4. The repair technology has been violated, for example, not all O-rings have been replaced.

In addition to problems with oil seals, pump breakdowns occur due to insufficient accurate centering of the housing and the power unit. In this case, both the oil seals and the bearings are destroyed, leading to the failure of the unit, and such problems are solved only by overhaul.

Lack of proper maintenance of bearings (their regular lubrication) can also pose a threat.

Read the article on self-priming centrifugal pumps for water here.

Centrifugal pump device. (click to enlarge) Such a unit as a centrifugal pump, even in its simplest version, has a rather complex device.

Therefore, to repair it, you will need knowledge, experience and certain skills.

Here are the basic steps for a pump repair:

• disassembly and inspection of the unit;
• measurement of seal clearances and monitoring of the rotor condition;
• installation of new bearings to replace old ones;
• control of the geometry of the necks of the shaft. In case of revealing their defects, the shaft is machined and polished;
• correction of detected defects;
• measurement of the geometry of the case.

This is a routine maintenance and should be done every 4,500 hours of use.

But every 26,000 hours of use of the unit, it requires more complex repairs, during which:

• replacement of the working shaft and wheel;
• change of body seal rings, bushings, both spacer and clamping;
• sometimes the replacement of sections is complete, in sectional units;
• surfacing and boring of landings in the body;
• hydraulic tests of the unit.

When doing repair work with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that the most difficult thing will be:

• disassemble the bearings;
• remove the liners;
• remove the half-coupling. To do this, you will need to use a special puller that comes with the pump;
• dismantle the unloading disc of the hydropath;
• remove the pressure flange.

When removing the impellers, it is important not to cause them to jam, removal is carried out in turn with each section. If this operation is difficult, but the wheel should be slightly warmed up. It is advisable not to remove the guides from the sections.

A comparison of vortex and centrifugal pumps is discussed in this article.

After identifying all the parts that have become unusable, you can proceed to another difficult task - assembling the pump.

During its implementation, you will have to perform rather delicate work:

• check the compliance of new parts with those that were previously and the drawings available in the instructions;
• to customize spare parts to the places of their installation;
• grind and grind the surfaces on which the parts are planted;
• tighten all screw fasteners evenly, using a torque wrench, observing the tightening torque exactly;
• assemble the impeller with exact observance of the axial clearance, directly on the shaft;
• when installing the unloading disc, observe the perpendicularity of its front side, avoiding an error greater than 0.02 mm.

It should be noted that if the impeller or housing is destroyed, they should not be welded, since this is unreliable and this is not done even in a factory.

Most often, the following works are performed at home:

• check and change bearings;
• flush and clean the crankcase;
• change the lubricant;
• check the condition of the oil seals;
• wash oil lines;
• check the alignment of the unit.

Sometimes it can cost so much to fix a pump that it’s easier to get a new one.

Watch a video in which an experienced user shows in detail the stages of repairing a centrifugal pump for water with his own hands: