Here is a photo of the input shaft bearing. Remove the stoppers from the outer and inner sides of the bearing race.
The bearing itself is difficult to remove here, so you cannot do without an assistant. Of course, you can get by with a puller here, but we did not have a suitable puller at hand. Therefore, we did it as follows :
One held it with montages on both sides, as if pulling it out
I knocked out the bearing by tapping through the copper lining on the input shaft.
In general, we collect everything and put it back in place in the reverse order. Well, that's how it is. There are still questions! Write them in the comments, if possible I will answer them.
You will need: keys "10", "13", "17", "24", "27", screwdriver, circlip remover, bearing remover, tweezers, punch, chisel, vice with soft metal jaws ...
1. Drain the oil from the transfer case (see "5.3.2 Changing the oil in the transfer case") and remove it from the vehicle (see "5.3.7 Removing and installing the transfer case").
2. Use a screwdriver to pry the locking sleeve and remove the gearbox control lever rod.
3. If the spacer and rubber ring are worn, remove them from the arm by prying apart the spacer tabs.
4. To reinstall the lever rod, install the spacer, locking sleeve and rubber ring into the lever rod in the reverse order of removal.
5. Remove the retaining ring and pull out the control arm shaft.
6. Remove the yoke axle bolt and ..
7.. remove the control mechanism.
8. Check and if necessary replace the plastic bushings of the lever, clean and grease all joints of the mechanism.
9. Remove the differential lock warning lamp switch from the transfer case housing.
10. Remove the nuts securing the control arm bracket and.
12. Unscrew the nut securing the fork in the bracket and.
thirteen. . disassemble the bracket. Replace worn or damaged parts.
14. Remove the nuts securing the side cover.
15. . remove the cover and the gasket underneath.
NOTE Replace a heavily crimped or torn gasket by lubricating it with a thin layer of sealant on both sides before installing.
16. Loosen the nut securing the shift clutch fork.
17. Using a screwdriver, remove the plug of the hole for the gear selector rod from the box crankcase.
18. Rotate the rod around its axis and smoothly slide it out of the crankcase until the lock ball appears. Use tweezers to remove the ball and.
WARNING Pull the stem very carefully, as the ball of the retainer is spring-loaded and can suddenly fly out of the stem seat.
20. Remove the stem from the crankcase by alternately removing the plug and from it.
22. Finally remove the stem.
23. Replace the stem O-ring if necessary.
24. Unscrew the nuts of the front axle drive housing cover and remove it.
25. Remove the differential lock rod retainer spring.
26. Remove the differential lock fork retaining bolt.
27. Take the protective cover of the stem away from the crankcase and,
28.. while extending the stem, tilt the transfer case forward so that the ball of the retainer rolls into the front axle drive housing. Having finally removed the stem, remove the plug from it, and then remove the ball from the crankcase.
29. Replace the stem O-ring if necessary.
30. Remove the five nuts securing the front axle drive housing.
31.. use a screwdriver to separate it from the transfer case housing and.
33.Remove the differential lock clutch.
34. Remove the gasket or remove its remnants.
35. Disassemble the front axle drive, for which fix the shaft in a vice with soft jaws, unscrew the self-locking nut of the front axle drive flange and remove the washer installed under it.
WARNING Self-locking nuts must not be reused, replace them with new ones!
37. Using a puller, remove the retaining ring and.
38. remove the shaft from the crankcase assembly with the bearing.
39. Remove the oil baffle and thrust rings from the shaft. Further disassembly of the shaft is described below.
40. Unscrew the nuts securing the bracket to the transfer case housing, and then the rest of the nuts securing the rear cover of the box.
41. Use a screwdriver to separate the rear cover from the box crankcase and.
42.. remove the cover together with the rear axle drive shaft.
43. To disassemble the rear cover, fix the shaft in a vice with soft jaws and unscrew the self-locking flange nut.
WARNING Self-locking nuts must not be reused, replace them with new ones!
44. Remove the nut, washer and flange.
45. Remove the retaining ring from the inside of the cover and.
46.. remove the shaft assembly with the bearing from the cover.
47. Remove the oil baffle and thrust rings from the shaft.
48. Remove the speed sensor drive (see "5.3.4 Replacing the speed sensor drive").
49. Unscrew the self-locking nut of the intermediate shaft mounting flange.
WARNING Self-locking nuts must not be reused, replace them with new ones!
50. Remove the nut, washer and flange.
51. Using a puller, remove the drive shaft rear bearing retaining ring.
52. Unscrew the nuts securing the front bearing cap of the drive shaft and.
54. Unscrew the remaining nuts securing the rear cover of the transfer case housing and.
56. Remove the differential from the box case.
57. Remove the drive bearing retaining rings and.
59. Remove the intermediate and from the crankcase.
61. To disassemble the differential, remove the retaining ring from the differential shaft.
63. Press the bearings off the differential housing trunnions using a puller.
64. Make marks on the separable parts of the differential housing so as not to disturb their mutual balance and alignment.
65. Remove the differential housing pinch bolts.
67.. remove the driven gear.
69.. separate the front and rear differential housings.
70. Remove the half-shaft gear from the front housing.
71. Remove the pinion shaft retaining ring.
73.. remove the pinion shaft from the holes in the rear housing.
74. Remove the satellites and from the rear housing.
75.. the second gear of the axle shaft.
76. Install the removed parts and assemble the differential in the reverse order.
77. If necessary, disassemble the intermediate shaft. Remove the outer race of the front intermediate shaft bearing.
78. Using a screwdriver, carefully, without damaging the separator, squeeze the rollers and out of the separator.
80. Using a spacer (socket head) of a suitable diameter, install the puller so as not to damage the gear wheel of the speedometer drive mechanism, press the inner ring of the bearing and from the shaft.
82. To remove the rear bearing, unscrew the nut, remove it together with the washer and.
83.. press the bearing with a puller.
84. Assemble the intermediate shaft in the reverse order of removal. After tightening with the required torque, lock the bearing retaining nut with a bit, pressing the nut collar into the shaft groove.
85. To disassemble the drive shaft, unscrew the bearing retaining nut and remove it.
87. Using a puller, remove the bearing from the shaft.
88.. thrust ring and low gear.
89. Remove the transfer clutch together with the hub and.
90.. top gear.
91. Using a puller, remove the bearing from the shaft.
92. Assemble the drive shaft in the reverse order of removal.After tightening the bearing retaining nut with the required torque (see Appendix 1: Tightening torques for threaded connections), lock it with a bit.
93. Assemble the transfer case in the reverse order of disassembly.
NOTE Press the bearings onto the shafts using a mandrel, applying force only to the inner race of the bearing. When pressing the bearing into the housing (crankcase), apply force only to the outer race.
WARNING Self-locking nuts must not be reused, replace them with new ones! Replace all removed gaskets with new ones.
USEFUL ADVICE Even install new gaskets with sealant.
In order to change the amount of torque and distribute it between the rear and front axles, the Chevrolet Niva has a transfer case, which has two gears. These two axles are connected to each other by an interaxle differential, which divides the torque equally, and in order to increase the cross-country ability, the differential is locked, while the drive shafts are rigidly connected to each other.
Therefore, it is very important to know what a Chevrolet Niva handout device is, which it is also desirable for the owner of this SUV to know.
This device is fixed on several brackets to the floor of the car body. The parts in the box are made of aluminum alloy, which are interconnected with nuts and studs.
The upper part of the crankcase is equipped with a special hatch, which is closed by a steel cover. There are cardboard spacers in the space between the crankcase and the lid.
All shafts in it are sealed with cuffs, which are made of rubber-metal material. Also, rubber rings sealed such elements as: Differential lock, shift fork rod, speed sensor, as well as drive shaft
A drive shaft is mounted on a pair of ball bearings, and the outer rings are located in the crankcase and in the slots of the front cover.
If you read the regulations, it is recommended to change the oil in the transfer case every forty-five thousand kilometers. The following tools are required for replacement:
Key for twelve
Syringe
Capacity where you can drain the mining
After the tool is ready, we proceed to the replacement:
We unscrew the oil drain plug and drain the working off
We twist the drain plug back, and unscrew the filler
Fill with a syringe with new oil to the desired level, at this point the process can be considered complete.
Sometimes it is necessary to replace the transfer case on a Chevrolet Niva car, and in order to do this, it should be dismantled, for this it is necessary to do the following:
We take two keys for thirteen and seventeen, and disconnect the driveshafts from it
Disconnect from the transfer case from the passenger compartment, cover with handle
We remove the cover of the lever, which is responsible for switching the drive
For the existing box suspension, loosen the fasteners
Disconnect all wires from the lamp responsible for the differential lock
We install a support under the box, unscrew all the nuts that secure the pillow, and remove the distributor
In order for it to fall into place, you should do all the steps in the reverse order.
The transfer case works very noisy, probably every owner of the Niva is faced with this problem, this noise is transmitted to the salon through the levers in it. There are two ways to get rid of this howling.
You can buy special silent levers for a Niva handout, from which they are suitable, and will cost around 3,000 rubles.
You can make it yourself, while spending much less.
In order to make them yourself, you can take:
Lever repair kit from GAZ 31105 from a five-speed gearbox
Two levers from VAZ
Standard lever
With the help of a grinder, you need to cut off all the elements to the desired level, and then use a welding machine to weld it all. In time, it takes about two hours.The essence of this device is that due to rubber and plastic bushings, which are located on the lever of the box, noise and vibration are damped. Let's consider the whole principle with an example:
Removing the lever
We cut to the size we need, as in the pictures
The lever that changes gears is cut one centimeter above the narrowing
Saw the lever from the GAS below the thickening by one and a half centimeters
We put the resulting elements we need together.
Then we weld the native lever and the lever from the GAS together
On the welded part that turned out, we put on the existing part from the KP
We weld the upper part of the existing native lever as needed
We get the design we need
We prime and paint the resulting elements
We cut the upper part of the sealing gum, low and high gear
If everything is done correctly, they are almost indistinguishable from gratifying. As a result of the actions taken, we get that the inclusion is softer than it was, vibration practically disappears, strong noise disappears, and most importantly, you can do this yourself while saving money.
VIDEO
Transfer case overhaul - general information
Overhaul of the transfer case is a difficult procedure to perform on your own. It involves the disassembly and correct reassembly of many small assemblies and components. It is necessary to accurately measure the many gaps and correct them correctly by choosing the appropriate size shims and circlip. Thus, if it becomes necessary to overhaul the transfer case, its removal and installation can be performed by an amateur mechanic, while the actual repair and restoration should be left to the car service specialists. There is a possibility of purchasing remanufactured boxes - consult the specialists of the dealer department. In any case, the time and money spent on repairing and restoring the old box will turn out to be quite commensurate with the cost of purchasing a restored unit.
Nevertheless, it should be said that the overhaul of the transfer case by the forces of even an inexperienced amateur mechanic is quite possible, provided that there is an appropriate special tool and an accurate and careful approach to performing each of the procedures, when not even the smallest steps are skipped.
Tools required to perform a transfer case overhaul include pliers for removing and installing both inner and outer circlips, bearing puller, sliding hammer, drift set, plunger-type dial indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a strong, comfortable-height workbench equipped with a vice, or a stand for dismantling transmissions, is absolutely essential.
When disassembling the transfer case, pay close attention to how each of the smallest components are installed, their position in relation to other parts, and the type of fasteners (take notes as you disassemble). The accompanying illustrations provided here are intended to help you understand the layout of the box - however, drawing up explanatory notes during disassembly still much more reliably guarantees the correctness of subsequent assembly.
Transfer case components type NP231
1 - Front holder of the cross, its oil seal, sealing washer and fastening nut 2 - Plug, pin and spring of the switch lock 3 - the Front holder with an oil seal 4 - the Front half of the crankcase 5 - Vacuum sensor-switch with a sealing ring 6 - Assembly of the ventilation line 7 - Bearing and retaining ring of the primary gear 8 - the Retaining ring of a gear wheel of a reduction gear 9 - the holder of the primary gear 10 - Thrust washers of a gear wheel of a reduction transfer 11 - the Primary gear wheel 12 - the Guide bearing of the primary gear 13 - the Gear wheel of the lowering transfer 14 - a hub of a fork of switching of modes 15 - the Retaining ring of the hub 16 - the Distance washer 17 - the Springs of the synchronizer 18 - Sliding keys of the synchronizer 19 - the Hub 20 - the Coupling 21 - the Blocking ring 22 - Retaining ring of the front bearing 23 - the Front bearing of a secondary shaft 24 - the Front secondary shaft
25 - the Drive sprocket 26 - Drive chain 27 - Bearings of the drive sprocket 28 - Rear bearing of a secondary shaft 29 - the Driven shaft 30 - the Epiploon 31 - Assembling the oil pump 32 - Rear bearing of a driven shaft 33 - the Lock ring 34 - Rear half of the crankcase 35 - Filling plug with a gasket 36 - Drain plug with a gasket 37 - the Back holder 38 - Extension casing 39 - the Bushing 40 - the Epiploon 41 - the Mesh screen of the oil sampling tube 42 - Nipple connection of a tube 43 - Oil intake pipe 44 - the Sealing ring of the oil sampling tube 45 - Magnet 46 - Nut and washer of the lever of modes 47 - the Lever of modes 48 - the O-ring and the bushing of the holder of the selector 49 - Selector 50 - Fork modes 51 - Range plug 52 - Spring modes
Transfer case components, type NP242
1 - the holder of the front bearing with an epiploon 2 - the front half of the crankcase 3 - Switching selector 4 - a Fork of switching to a lower gear with inserts 5 - the Shift rod 6 - the Shifting bracket 7 - the Slider bracket 8 - the Bushing with a spring 9 - Fork of modes with inserts 10 - Bushing 11 - the spring of a fork 12 - the Bushing 13 - Assembly of the ventilation line 14 - Bearing and retaining ring of the primary gear 15 - Retaining ring of a gear wheel of a reduction gear 16 - the Holder of a gear wheel of a reduction transfer 17 - the Thrust washer of the gear of the underdrive 18 - the Primary gear wheel 19 - the Rear half of the crankcase 20 - Drain and filler plug 21 - the Rear bearing holder 22 - Extension casing 23 - the Bushing and the epiploon 24 - the Vacuum sensor-switch 25 - Magnet 26 - the Thrust ring 27 - the Lock ring 28 - the switching clutch 29 - the Gear wheel of the lowering transfer
30 - Guide bearing (primary gear / driven shaft) 31 - Front bearing of the front output shaft and circlip 32 - Shaft of intermediate clutch 33 - the switching clutch 34 - the Lock ring 35 - the Driven shaft 36 - Assembling the differential 37 - the O-ring of a tube of the oil pump 38 - Oil intake pipe of the oil pump with a mesh screen 39 - Rollers of the bearing of the driven shaft 40 - the Drive sprocket 41 - Drive chain 42 - the Lock ring 43 - the Oil pump seal 44 - the Oil pump 45 - Rear bearing with a circlip 46 - Rear bearing of the front output shaft 47 - the Lock ring 48 - Driven sprocket 49 - the Front secondary shaft 50 - Spacer washers of the driven shaft bearing 51 - Washer and nut of the shift lever 52 - the Lever of switching 53 - O-ring and sector oil seal 54 - Cork, spring and retainer pin 55 - the Sealing plug 56 - The front holder of the cross with a nut and a sealing washer, a slider and an oil seal
Transfer case components, type NP249
1 - the Epiploon 2 - the holder of the front bearing 3 - The front bearing of the driven shaft with a locating ring 4 - The front half of the crankcase (with a toothed ring of the underdrive of internal gearing and a bushing of the shift rod) 5 - the gear wheel of the lowering transfer 6 - the Primary gear wheel 7 - Thrust washers equipped with tongues 8 - Holder plate 9 - the retaining ring of the primary gear 10 - the clutch 11 - Clutch shaft 12 - the locking ring of the differential 13 - Differential assembly 14 - the Driving gear wheel of the driven shaft 15 - Retaining ring of a driving gear 16 - the Spacer washer of the driven shaft bearing 17 - Needle bearings of the driven shaft 18 - the Spacer washer of the driven shaft bearing 19 - the Driven shaft 20 - Viscous clutch 21 - the Retaining ring of the viscous clutch 22 - the Retaining ring of the oil pump installation 23 - the Oil pump
24 - Rear bearing of a driven shaft 25 - Retaining ring of the rear bearing 26 - the Drive gear wheel of the speedometer 27 - Assembling the rear holder (with a cap, an oil seal, a bushing, an access cover and a gasket) 28 - a locating ring of the rear bearing 29 - the Front half of the crankcase 30 - Rear bearing of the front output shaft 31 - Assembling the oil suction tube (with connecting hoses, mesh screen, tubes and O-ring) 32 - Assembling the shift fork with the rod (including fork lining) 33 - Drive chain 34 - the Front secondary shaft 35 - the Switching selector 36 - the crankcase magnet 37 - Front bearing of the front output shaft 38 - Retaining ring of the bearing 39 - Plunger and retainer spring 40 - Plug and retainer O-ring 41 - Lock nut and washer of the mode lever 42 - the Lever of modes 43 - Oil seal (front bearing of the front output shaft) 44 - the Holder of the secondary shaft cross 45 - the Sealing washer of the holder of the cross 46 - the Nut of the holder of the cross
Video (click to play).
Before sending the transfer case for repair, it is helpful to have an idea of which part of the transfer case is causing the problem. Some of the defects are uniquely associated with different nodes, which can greatly simplify the troubleshooting procedure and reduce the time for troubleshooting. See also Section Troubleshooting at the beginning of the Guide.