In detail: DIY repair of a toilet cistern from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The design and principle of operation of the cistern are quite simple, therefore, difficulties rarely arise with the repair of the device.
With some breakdowns of the cistern, water does not flow to the floor, there is no threat of flooding the neighbors from below. Such malfunctions seem insignificant, but this is exactly until the invoice for payment of water supply services arrives.
If a counter is installed, then any failure in the operation of the tank can become a problem! Therefore, the smartest solution is to eliminate it right away, without waiting for trouble.
Small difficulties sometimes occur only with improved modern models, in such cases it is worth contacting specialists. Basically, almost any toilet cistern repair can be done by hand.
The device of the toilet cistern is quite simple, and almost any person can cope with its repair, because no special skills are required for this
In many ways, cisterns of various designs are similar. The main difference lies in the installation method:
Suspended cisterns. Structures of this type are attached to the toilet bowl at a low height and connected with a pipe.
Toilet cistern compact. The compact cistern is mounted directly on the toilet bowl without connecting pipes.
Built-in cistern. Constructions of this type are installed in the wall, they are used with hanging toilet bowls.
Regardless of the model, the designs of the cisterns are very similar. Modern devices are convenient because they can be repaired without disassembling modules and replacing them entirely
The water supply to the flush tank is carried out either from the bottom or from the side. The side feed device is most often found in domestic-made toilets. Its advantage is its relatively low price, which affects the cost of the entire toilet bowl as a whole.
Video (click to play).
Bottom water supply is often found in modern domestic and imported designs. These are usually slightly more expensive models.
For draining, mechanisms of various types can be provided: buttons, rods, levers, chains. The most common option is a button.
It can be located at the top of the structure, and in models with a hidden cistern - on the wall. To drain the water, just press it.
Models with a push-button mechanism can only be disassembled after dismantling the push-button. How to remove the lid from a tank of this design is shown in detail in the video:
VIDEO Buttons in which the water is completely drained after a short single press are called automatic.
Those in which the water is drained only while the button is pressed are mechanical. The former are more convenient to use, and the latter allow you to save water when flushing the toilet.
There are one- and two-mode push-button drain mechanisms. In models with two buttons, it is possible to drain only half the volume of the tank.
However, there are designs with one button, which in the same way can drain either the full volume of water or half. If the push-button mechanism is equipped with a special auger that makes the water rotate when flushing, then the toilet bowl is washed more efficiently.
Mechanisms with two buttons cost a little more, but the overpayment pays off, because draining in economy mode can reduce water consumption by 20 cubic meters. in year
If desired, you can easily adjust the amount of water drawn into the tank. This is necessary if the toilet is poorly flushed or if there is too much water and there is a need to reduce its volume.
To change the filling volume, you need to remove the tank lid and perform simple steps. But before proceeding with the adjustment, you first need to deal with the tank device.
The video below will help you with this:
VIDEO
Such mechanisms are equipped with a lever made of thick metal wire. It connects the valve and float. To raise or lower the float, bend the wire arm slightly.
After that, you should make sure that the right amount of water is collected in the tank. If not, bend the wire a little more. Raising the lever, you can increase the volume of water, lowering it - decrease it.
This option is only suitable for those tanks in which metal is used in the float system.
Many modern models use plastic instead of metal parts. Such levers cannot be bent, but it is possible to move the float itself along their axis using the fastening screw provided by the design.
The float can be secured with a thread or a latch. If a latch is used in the design, then it is squeezed out. To increase the volume of water in the tank, the float is moved closer to the valve body.
As a result, the length of the lever is reduced. If it is necessary to lower the water level, the float is moved further from the body.
This is the simplest design of a side-fed cistern. Brass wire is used as a lever. By slightly changing the angle of its inclination, you can reduce the amount of water in the tank. If a meter is installed in the house, this is a great way to save on utility bills.
If the design is with a bottom feed water, it can be adjusted even more easily than a side feed system. The mechanism has a special water level limiter connecting the valve lever and the float. It can be lengthened or shortened.
The float on the stop is secured with a thread. To adjust the water level in the tank, you need to change its height using a plastic nut.
The main advantage of bottom feed designs is ease of installation and maintenance. When repairing or replacing, problems are extremely rare.
If the cistern is faulty, it quickly becomes obvious: water either flows into the toilet bowl, or begins to drip onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container is not filled.
No matter how ultramodern and complex the design of the tank is, breakdowns appear the same in all models.
External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that damp areas are not striking. Then the leak can be determined by the appearance of red spots and rust streaks.
If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.
If there is no coarse filter, particles of dirt and rust constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the container and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure and cause breakdown.
Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed against the drain hole, reliably closes it and is held in this position by water pressure. When the trigger is pressed, this bulb rises and opens the drain hole.
The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, a special guide tube is provided in the design. It ensures the correct position of the bulb in the saddle.
If the integrity of the pear or tube itself is violated, the mechanism fails.
This is how the rubber bulb of the tank should look if it is in working order. It should remain flexible and fit well to the saddle.
The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the pear. If it has lost its elasticity, cracked, then it is in it that the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well, water flows into cracks and gaps.
Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the bulb just needs to be replaced.
If everything is in order with it, you need to make sure that no dirt and rust particles get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.
There are cases when the problem of a leak can be solved by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. This is often enough to restore normal operation. It also makes sense for prophylaxis to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.
If the pear is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet cistern in search of the cause of the leak.
The tank is not filled if:
the supply hose is faulty;
the inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.
Water can leak out if:
the gasket between the cistern and the toilet is worn out;
there is a leak at the installation site of the connecting screws.
Internal leaks appear when:
overflow pipe not adjusted;
defective valve;
the float is out of order.
All of these components should be carefully checked, repaired, adjusted or damaged parts replaced. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:
VIDEO
How can you fix a toilet cistern if water has stopped flowing into it? This is not difficult. First of all, check the supply hose. It is disconnected from the tank and one end is lowered into a container.
If the water does not flow, you can simply buy and install a new hose.
Most often, the problem lies in the clogging of the narrow part of the valve. For repairs, it is enough to empty the tank, cut off the water and unscrew the assembly consisting of a valve, a lever and a float.
When the parts are removed, a hole will open through which the container is filled. It is very often clogged. You can clean it with a regular needle or wire.
To carry out a complete cleaning, you need to remove the valve from the inlet and rinse the remaining dirt with water.
Sometimes the cause of breakage is a tiny piece of scale trapped in the hose, or dirt. You can try rinsing or cleaning it.
If an external leak appears, you can repair the toilet with your own hands and not call the master. Usually, problems arise due to a loose gasket between the toilet bowl and the cistern, or if the seals under the screws are worn out.
In the first case, it is enough to remove the tank, check the gasket and, if it has become too rigid or cracked, replace it.
It happens that the reason for such a leak is trivial - the gasket is incorrectly installed. Then it is enough just to put it in its place, or better - to change it.
If a leak appears in the place of the connecting screws, then they need to be unscrewed and the rubber seals must be changed. To do this, it is not even necessary to remove the tank itself.
When choosing new seals, it is better to give preference to conical rather than flat. They adhere much more closely to surfaces.
When tightening the screws after replacing the seals, it is important to achieve an even distribution of forces in order to avoid distortions, otherwise a new leak may appear. To do this, tighten the screws little by little and in turn.
How to fix the cistern if water flows into the toilet bowl? First, it is worth checking the correct setting of the overflow tube. You need to raise it a little and see if water pours into the tube.
If so, the float valve needs to be repaired. If not, you need to adjust the lever.
Valve problems can be caused by debris. You just need to remove it from under the rubber band.
If the rubber is worn out, you can simply turn it over with the other side, but it is better to change it right away. If the valve is broken, you will have to replace it with a new one.
We offer video instructions for replacing the drain tank fittings:
VIDEO
Noise when filling the tank with water cannot be called a breakdown, because all mechanisms are in good order. However, loud sounds can be very annoying and interfere with proper rest.
Most often, the tank is loudly recruited immediately after the water is drained, then the noise becomes less.
The solution to the problem is very simple. To do this, a small piece of rubber or plastic tube is put on the branch pipe of the locking mechanism.
The length should be such that the tube reaches the bottom of the container. After that, the tank will become much less noisy.
In addition to such a device, there are other ways to get rid of the noise during the operation of the tank. The cardinal solution is to replace a conventional float valve with a stabilizing one with a special chamber. In this case, it will be possible to forget about the noise forever and relax in comfort.
Repairing a toilet cistern is a simple procedure. To fix all the faults with your own hands, it is enough to have the time, desire and the simplest tools.
However, sometimes difficulties arise with the diagnosis of breakdowns or the repair itself. In this case, it is better not to experiment and call a plumber.
All cisterns have a similar design. The only difference is in the mechanism for starting the water.
Structurally, a toilet cistern with a button or two buttons, as well as a drain lever, can be represented as a set of interacting units:
Filling valve ... He is responsible for maintaining the water level at a certain level. The valve is controlled by a hollow float. When the water rises to the desired level, the float closes the water supply channel to the tank;Plastic float fixed to the filling valve. Works on the principle of a rocker, rising when filling the tank;Drain valve having an overflow system. Modern variants of the tanks involve the control of this valve by pressing a button. When manually controlling the drain of the old model, it is enough to pull the lever or chain to start the water into the toilet;Overflow is an obligatory component of the tank. It is height adjustable so that the water level is set to a limit. When this level is exceeded, water flows through the overflow pipe into the sewer without pouring out through its walls.
A mechanically drained cistern is very simple to operate. Water enters it through the filling valve when the float is in the lowered position. After reaching a strictly defined level, the float shuts off the water supply. The drain is controlled manually. If the tank is equipped with buttons, then the water is drained after pressing them. In this case, the drain valve opens partially or completely, allowing water to flow into the toilet. The float is lowered to open the filling valve.
The structure of the toilet cistern with two buttons is a little more complicated, but you can use such a cistern more economically. If you press one of the buttons, the water is partially drained. Full drainage occurs when the second button is pressed.
Increasingly, you can find new types of tanks that have bottom water connection ... It is advisable to install them if the use of the side connection is impossible due to lack of space. The main difference between such a tank is the presence of a diaphragm valve ... Under the action of the pressure of water in the pipeline, the valve opens slightly and allows water to pass inside.When the water rises, the float presses on the piston rod, which gradually closes the diaphragm valve. When the set level is reached, the valve closes completely.
Drainage malfunctions may well lead to the loss of the toilet bowl of its performance. For many, such a sudden breakdown can be a real natural disaster. In addition, no one will like the increased water consumption.
And how to choose a pump to increase water pressure and in what situations it is needed, we described in another article on the site.
What kind of breakdowns are typical for cisterns? Let's list them in order of frequency of occurrence:
1. Water leaking from the toilet to the floor ... Most often, water flows through an O-ring located between the bottom of the cistern and the toilet shelf. If the ring is cracked or warped, water will seep through it. Also, the place of leakage may be the gaskets of the fastening bolts with which the tank is attached to the shelf. They will have to be replaced if tightening the bolts fails. It doesn't matter if the old-style toilet cistern is being repaired or a modern system is being repaired. After all, they all have the same fasteners.
Tip: When replacing gaskets and seals, it is recommended to lubricate them with liquid silicone to extend their life and prevent cracking.
2. There is a constant flow of water in the toilet ... Most often this is due to an overflow of the tank, in which water flows out through the overflow tube. This can happen due to a change in the overflow height, a loose fit of the float to the shut-off valve, and the loss of its tightness by the float. The rubber seal on the drain fitting may also be worn out. Most often, the malfunction can be eliminated by adjustment. When the locking gasket is worn out, it is advisable to replace the entire drain mechanism.
3. Starting mechanism malfunctions ... If you are using a push-button water supply mechanism, when you press the button, water may not flow into the drain. You will be able to repair the drain tank fittings with your own hands, since, most often, the lever mechanism that connects the button with the drain breaks. This also applies to tanks with a handle or chain.
4. Noisy filling of the tank ... This happens due to the disconnection of the tube through which water is poured into the tank. This is typical for cisterns where water is supplied from the side. When the tube has fallen off, the noise of the incoming water will be clearly audible. To fix the problem, remove the top cover and install the tube on the fitting.
5. Water does not enter the tank ... Repairing a toilet cistern with a button or other flush mechanisms when such a problem occurs is reduced to checking the inlet to the cistern. It is necessary to remove the valve from the tank and clean the inlet with a thin steel wire and rinse it with water.
VIDEO
Many people who are accustomed to old-style cisterns do not know how to fix a toilet cistern with a button. In fact, the differences between these systems are very minor. For many, the main problem is disassembling such a tank. Indeed, the button located on the tank lid requires careful handling during disassembly. But the device is very simple to understand.
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The procedure will be as follows:
turn off the water;
empty the tank;
carefully unscrew the plastic nut near the button;
remove the cover.
Further actions depend on the nature of the breakdown. Breakdowns of the tank with a button may be as follows:
Little water is collected in the tank. Check the position of the float and adjust it.
The water start button is lit. This can happen due to clogging of the button shaft.It is necessary to clean it, and set the button to its previous position.
Water does not go down the toilet at the push of a button. Most likely, there was a break in the mechanism between the button and the drain valve. You can restore it yourself. If this element of the armature breaks down, then to replace it, you can use a copper wire or replace the valve completely.
Water flows through the overflow neck. It is necessary to adjust the overflow height or float. Overflow regulation is very simple. To do this, unscrew the union nut and set the required overflow level.
Water flows into the toilet from under the valve. The drain valve gasket may be worn out. It is best to replace the entire valve. To do this, unscrew the plastic nut at the bottom of the tank and remove the valve from its place. Install a new valve.
Note: It happens that the valve is not firmly in place due to misalignment. Reopening and closing it helps to eliminate the leakage problem.
Economical water consumption adds popularity to such a plumbing fixture. How to repair a toilet cistern with two buttons? The principle of disassembling such a tank remains the same as in the one-button version.
Typical breakdowns of a two-button tank:
Sagging buttons. To install the buttons in place, remove the cover by unscrewing the retaining ring near the button. Sometimes the buttons will snap into place if you press them again.
If the water does not drain, check the integrity of the connecting fittings. Refit it or replace with a piece of copper wire.
Water flowing through the drain valve indicates that the valve is not in the correct position in relation to the drain hole. If water overflows through the overflow, adjust the water level by changing the position of the float or the overflow height.
And if you are interested in how to install a shower cabin with your own hands, then we also have material on this topic.
Before buying a water filter, we recommend that you read our tips for choosing them.
The tank with bottom water connection uses a diaphragm-type filling valve. This can cause problem with filling the tank with low pressure in the water supply system ... The water pressure may not be sufficient to depress the valve and fill the tank. If your system constantly maintains a low pressure, then it is better to replace the diaphragm valve with a rod analogue.
Another common problem is water leakage at the inlet to the supply valve reservoir. Its location is such that the valve is constantly under water. In case of insufficient tightness of the joints, the presence of leaks is practically guaranteed.
Repair of the toilet cistern with a bottom water supply is carried out after shutting off the water supply and removing the cistern cover. After that, the problem is eliminated according to the same algorithms that are described for repairing models with buttons.
We have figured out how to repair a flush cistern with a button, with two buttons, or with a mechanical control. They differ slightly, mainly in the design of the control mechanism. The general principle of operation and repair is the same for all considered devices.
The video shows the do-it-yourself repair of the toilet cistern, or rather, the process of replacing its fittings.
VIDEO
No matter how high-quality the toilet bowl and fittings are, problems periodically arise: either water is not collected, then on the contrary, it constantly flows from the drain. All these problems are associated with fittings (drain and inlet valves), which are placed in the drain tank. Next, we'll talk about how to independently, with your own hands, install it, change, adjust and repair it.
No matter how the toilet looks, the filling in the cistern will be similar
The toilet cistern consists of two simple systems: a set of water and its drain. To troubleshoot possible problems, you need to understand how everything is arranged and works. First, we will consider what parts the old-style toilet cistern consists of. Their system is clearer and clearer, and the operation of more modern devices will be understood by analogy.
Internal fittings for this type of cistern are very simple. The water supply system is an inlet valve with a float mechanism, the drain system is a lever and a bulb with a drain valve inside. There is also an overflow pipe - excess water from the tank goes through it, bypassing the drain hole.
The device of the cistern of the old design
The main thing in this design is the correct operation of the water supply system. A more detailed diagram of its structure is shown in the figure below. The inlet valve is connected to the float using a curved lever. This lever presses on the piston, which opens / closes the water supply.
When filling the tank, the float is in the lower position. Its lever does not press on the piston and it is squeezed out by water pressure, opening the outlet to the branch pipe. Water is gradually collected. As the water level rises, the float rises. Gradually he presses the piston, shutting off the water supply.
The device of the float mechanism in the toilet cistern
The system is simple and quite effective, the filling level of the tank can be changed by slightly bending the lever. The disadvantage of this system is the noticeable filling noise.
Now let's look at how the drainage of water in the tank works. In this embodiment, the drain hole is closed off by a drain valve bulb. A chain is tied to the pear, which is connected to the drain lever. By pressing the lever, we raise the pear, the water is drained into the hole. When the level drops, the float goes down, opening the water supply. This is how this type of cistern works.
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Less noise when filling toilet cisterns with lower water connections. This is a more recent version of the device described above. Here the tap / inlet valve is hidden inside the tank - in the tube (in the photo - the gray tube to which the float is connected).
The device of a flush tank with a water supply from the bottom
The mechanism of operation is the same - the float is lowered - the valve is open, water flows. The tank was full, the float rose, the valve shut off the water. The drain system remained in this version almost unchanged - the same valve that rises when you press the lever. The water overflow system has hardly changed either - this is also a tube, but it is brought out into the same drain.
You can clearly see the work of the drain tank of such a system in the video.
VIDEO
Models of cisterns for a toilet with a button have a similar water inlet fittings (available with side water supply, available from the bottom) and drain fittings of a different type.
Tank device with push-button drain
The system shown in the photo is most often found in domestic-made toilets. It is inexpensive and completely reliable. The device of imported units is different. They basically have a bottom water supply and another drain and overflow device (pictured below).
Imported cistern fittings
Such systems are different:
with one button, the water is drained while the button is pressed;
with one button, draining starts when pressed, stops when pressed again;
with two buttons that release different amounts of water.
The mechanism of work here is slightly different, although the principle remains the same. In this fitting, when you press the button, the glass rises, blocking the drain, while the stand remains motionless. In short, this is all the difference. The drain is adjusted using a swivel nut or a special lever.
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Most of the problems with the toilet are solved by adjusting or replacing the cistern fittings. In any case, you need to know how to disassemble and reassemble the inside of the tank. This skill will definitely come in handy. When replacing, you must first dismantle the old device, and then install the new one.We will describe in detail the whole process, including the installation of new fittings.
If a flush cistern with a button is being repaired, it is not always immediately clear how to remove the lid. This is easy to do: press the button, turn the ring.
How to remove the lid from a tank with a button
If it does not work with your fingers, having pressed the button, we consider its inner rim. There are two special slots there. You can take a screwdriver with a narrow end, turn the ring a little with it. Then you can twist it with your fingers.
Then remove the button by pulling it up. That's it, the lid can be lifted.
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To replace the old cistern fitting, it must be removed from the toilet bowl. First of all, we shut off the water supply, then we drain the water from the tank. Then, using the keys, remove the water supply hose (it is attached from the side or bottom).
When the water inlet is located at the bottom, it is located next to the fastening pins
Next, you need to disconnect the tank from the toilet bowl. If you look under it from below, you can see the bolts, which are tightened with nuts. So we unscrew them using a set of open-end wrenches or adjustable wrenches. Before that, place a container near the toilet bowl or lay a rag - a certain amount of water always remains in the tank, and when you unscrew the nuts, it will drain.
Having unscrewed two nuts - on the right and on the left, we remove the tank. The gasket usually remains on the bowl. If it is deformed or dry, it is also advisable to replace it.
Remove the cistern from the bowl
We put the tank on a flat surface. There is a large plastic nut at the bottom. It holds the drain mechanism, we unscrew it. Sometimes the first turns have to be done with an adjustable wrench, but do not pinch it too much - plastic can be fragile.
We unscrew the nut holding the drain mechanism
Now the water drainage mechanism can be easily removed.
This is how the cistern fittings look after several years of operation.
Remove the water supply mechanism in the same way. At bottom feed, the retaining nut is also at the bottom (to the right or left of the center).
Water feed mechanism retaining nut
This removed the water supply to the tank
After that, we look inside the cistern. Usually, rusty sediment, small metal particles, sand, etc. accumulate at the bottom. All this must be removed, if possible, rinsed. The inside must be clean - debris caught under the gaskets can cause a leak. After that, we begin the installation of new fittings.
Everything happens in the reverse order. First, we install a new stand for the drainage mechanism. We unscrew the plastic nut from it, put a rubber gasket on the branch pipe. It can be white (as in the photo) or black.
We put on a rubber gasket on the thread
We put the device inside the container, from the outside we screw in a plastic nut. We twist it, as long as possible, with our fingers, then tighten it a little with a key. You can't pull it - it will burst.
Install and tighten the nut
Now, on the toilet bowl, we replace the O-ring that seals its connection with the cistern. Dirt and rust often accumulate in this place - we wipe it off beforehand, the seat must be dry and clean.
We put the O-ring
We install the fastening bolts inside the tank, not forgetting to put the gaskets. We put the cistern in place until it is possible not to level it. The main thing is to get the screws and the exhaust part into the seats. We take a washer, a nut and screw them onto the screws.
When both nuts are installed, but not yet tightened, level the container. Then, using the key, we begin to tighten the mount. We twist it a few turns from the right, then to the left.
Finally, we install the inlet valve for the drain tank. It could have been installed earlier, but then it is inconvenient to install the mounting bolts - there is too little space.We also put on a gasket on the outlet pipe, then install it inside, fix it with a nut.
We tighten the intake valve mounting nut
The next step is to connect water to the same pipe. Before connecting the flexible water hose, open the water for a while, making it possible to remove the scale that accumulates every time after closing the tap, even for a short time. After draining a certain amount of water (substitute a bucket so as not to wet the floor), connect the hose to the fitting (turn off the water again).
We connect water to the toilet cistern
Although the fitting is metal, it is also not necessary to tighten this connection too much - first with your fingers, then one turn with a wrench. If, when you turn on the water, drops are found, you can pull it up another half turn. After that, we check if the system is working properly. If everything is correct, install the lid, fasten the button. You can test it again. This completes the installation of the drain tank fittings. As you can see, everything can be done by hand.
VIDEO
During the operation of the toilet, problems periodically arise - it flows, then, on the contrary, no water is collected in it. Sometimes, tired of the inconvenience, people buy new toilets. But in vain. Most of the faults are eliminated in 10-20 minutes. Moreover, everything is so simple that everyone can cope. You don't have to call a plumber. You can do everything with your own hands.
It will be about devices with a bottom water supply. After installation, the toilet cistern needs to be adjusted. By default, they come from the factory set to the maximum amount of water in the container. This amount is often overkill. With the help of a simple adjustment, we can reduce the volume of water in the tank. For this:
We turn off the water supply, drain the water.
We unscrew the button.
Remove the cover.
Where is the adjusting screw
The same procedure is necessary if water is constantly leaking from the tank. One of the reasons is the float raised too high. This causes water to drain through the overflow system.
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With a side water supply and a float mechanism, adjustment is even easier - we change the position of the float by bending its lever. On the one hand, it is easier, but on the other hand, it is more difficult. You have to bend it many times to achieve the required level.
By bending the float lever, we change the water level in the drain tank
If the water in the toilet is constantly leaking, and its level is normal, move on. There are several reasons for this leak. And if so, then the methods of elimination will be different.
The sealing gum under the drain valve in the tank has silted up, dirt has got under it, a groove (or several) has appeared on its surface. The method of treatment is to clean the existing gasket or replace it with a new one. To reanimate the old one you need:
turn off the water, drain it,
remove the escapement by unscrewing the plastic nut from below;
pull out the drain valve, remove and examine the gasket, clean it from settled particles, if necessary (there are grooves), grind it with very fine sandpaper to smoothness;
install in place, connect everything and check the operation.
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The escapement itself was demolished. To check if this is the case, you can slightly press on the mechanism with the cover removed. If the flow has stopped, then this is the case. If not, you should try to clean the gasket (described above) or replace it. If, when pressed, the leak has ceased, you can replace the fittings or make the glass heavier.
To do this, remove the escapement and put something heavy in its lower part. It can be several pieces of metal, a sock into which pennies were poured, sand, etc. We put the device in place and check the work.
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Another problem that you can fix with your own hands is that water is not collected in the drain tank. Most likely the matter is in the blockage - the filter or tubes are clogged. Long storytelling, better watch the video.
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When installing sanitary ware in a new house or a recently purchased apartment, you need to worry in advance about the correct installation of the toilet, a strong connection of hoses and pipes, the serviceability of gaskets and fasteners. Old plumbing also occasionally requires a routine inspection. Due to poor water quality, the fittings quickly wear out and fail, and then urgent repair of the drain tank is required. The delay is worth the flooding of the dwelling, including the neighbors below.
At first glance - the simplest device: a container equipped with a drain and water supply system. When the button is pressed, the mechanism releases the water, the supply valve opens, and the empty container is refilled.
The main functional parts of the tank: 1 (1) - inlet (filling) fittings; 1 (2) - drain (drain) mechanism; 1 (3) - water drain button. All details are interconnected
It turns out that even such an elementary device can break. Let's consider in more detail how you can troubleshoot without the help of plumbers.
If water is constantly drawn into the tank and immediately flows into the toilet, look for a problem in the float mechanism. There may be several reasons for the breakdown:
intake valve wear;
skew of the lever ("rocker arm");
displacer malfunction.
The float (displacer) from long operation gives cracks through which water enters it. It sinks and stops performing its main function - it just needs to be replaced.
If the lever is bent, it must be returned to the correct, horizontal position. The location of the lever is approximately 2 cm below the hole through which the water enters.
Modern sets of drain fittings have a different structure - they do not include a traditional float on a rocker, although the principle of operation of the mechanism has been preserved
The valve that closes the incoming water has a different structure for different models. In some cases, the valve cannot cope with the high pressure - it is necessary to install a float valve.
The loud noise that accompanies the process of filling the tank with water creates discomfort for others. It is easy to get rid of it by adjusting the diameter of the inlet or by adding a small plastic tube to the fittings. The water will stop freely, noisily pouring into the tank, but will flow through the tube, respectively, the loud sound will disappear. To do this, we put a tube 30-35 cm long on the hole with one end, and place the other below the water level when the tank is drained. Even if the noise does not completely disappear, it will become quieter.
A plastic or rubber tube is placed over the inlet to muffle the noise of the water entering the tank. This device is relevant for tanks with top line
Here, most likely, the steel bolts, which are the fastening of the tank to the toilet shelf, have rotted - they must be urgently replaced. Having bought a new set of bolts, we proceed to dismantle the tank:
we shut off the water by turning the valve perpendicularly;
dry everything inside and remove the remnants of rusty fasteners;
unscrew the nut and disconnect the inlet valve;
we unscrew the old bolts that fix the tank on the toilet shelf;
remove the tank from the rubber tight cuff;
take out the old bolts. You must remove both, even if only one of them is faulty;
we clean the joints of the bolts with the tank and the tank with the toilet;
tighten new brass or steel bolts;
we install the tank on the shelf, after securing the cuff;
tighten the fasteners carefully so as not to damage the sanitary ware;
we start up the water and check if it leaks at the bottom of the tank; we drain the water a couple of times and check it again.
Sometimes a leak can appear a little later, so for two days it is worth occasionally carefully examining the problem area. As you can see, it is not always necessary to carry out major repairs - sometimes it is enough to replace the fasteners.
You do not need a special tool to unscrew the bolts connecting the cistern to the toilet shelf: usually "ears" are provided for a comfortable grip
Toilet cistern fasteners are supplied at every plumbing store. The price of the cheapest is 40-50 rubles, the more expensive option will cost 250-300 rubles
There can be no question of saving water if it constantly flows in a thin stream into the toilet, preventing the required volume from accumulating in the container.
Most likely, the matter is in the siphon membrane, which has worn out and has lost its ability to hermetically close the hole. The problem is solved by simply replacing the membrane with a new one.
To do this, you need to do a few things:
drain the water;
remove the siphon;
remove the old membrane, install a new one;
put the siphon in place, attach it to the lever, tighten the fastening nut.
Sometimes it’s not a membrane, but a breakdown of the thrust, which can also be easily replaced.
The siphon membrane is located at the bottom of the drain fitting. It is a rubber gasket that ensures the tightness of the connection of parts
So, all of a sudden, water has completely stopped flowing into the tank. Will self-repair be enough, or will you have to contact plumbers? Let's consider three ways to solve this problem.
First, let's check the serviceability of the supply hose. We shut off the water, disconnect the hose from the tank and place it over any container (you can also over the tank). Unscrew the valve a little, let the water in again. If everything is in order with the hose, water will flow freely into the container. Otherwise, you will have to replace it.
It is possible that the connection point of the supply hose is clogged, since after repairing the pipeline, sand and other mechanical impurities that can clog small holes get into the water. You can try to clean it with an elongated sharp object such as a screwdriver.
The cost of a new supply hose is about 100 rubles. It is better to buy a product that has a shut-off valve - in the event of a leak in the drain tank, it is much easier to shut off the water
Another reason is a malfunction in the float mechanism due to wear on the intake valve. In this case, it is best to replace the faulty float valve with a new one.
If you do not want to mess with small parts of the worn out fittings, you can simply remove the old one, and replace it with a new mechanism purchased from the store.
When removing old fittings, pay attention to faults. Perhaps a complete replacement of the mechanism is not required, sometimes it is enough to change one small part
The sets of fittings for cisterns have structural differences. For example, their structure is different depending on the type of liner - side or bottom
First, let's figure out how best to disassemble the structure using the example of an armature with a lower connection:
we shut off the water;
carefully unscrew the button;
remove the cover;
disconnect the eyeliner;
remove the drain column in parts: first, dismantle the upper part (by turning it 90 degrees);
unscrew the drain tank fasteners;
we put it on the toilet for further work;
we unscrew two nuts: fastening the valve and the column, take out the second part of the reinforcement;
we install a new mechanism and carry out the reverse work on the installation of the tank.
Video (click to play).
As you can see, changing the components of the tank is not difficult: the whole operation takes no more than 10-15 minutes. Another advantage of independent work is that no special tool is required, all actions are carried out with the help of hands, pliers and keys.
