Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Supra TV is not included from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

SUPRA STV-2084E3... When you turn on the TV without a signal, such a picture is observed. The lower part of the frame is present, the upper part is absent, the separation is not clearly expressed, there is no pronounced separation strip. When a signal is applied, a normal image appears, but just above the middle of the screen, there is a black arrow-shaped stripe at the end. It turned out that the malfunction was in the frame scan output circuit, the capacitors and electrolytes of the output and feedback must be replaced.

SUPRA STV-1484 The image on the screen is sluggish (graphics are displayed normally) after two to three hours, according to the owner, it is restored. There was not enough strength to check this statement, after a day of work nothing has changed. The fault consisted in the breakdown of the LZP. After replacing it with a piece of wire, the normal operation of the TV was restored. The quality of the picture was quite satisfactory for the client.

Supra STV-2084DK When turned on, a squeak is heard coming from the power supply, the TV does not start. When checking the secondary circuits of the power supply unit, it turned out that + 12V and + 18V are normal, and instead of + 115V, only +28 - 30V. When the power was turned off from the horizontal scan, the voltage increased to + 115v. Checking the SPLIT of the transformer and its secondary circuits yielded nothing. When the scribe was connected, the voltage again sank to + 30V. I measured the pulsations on the D8075 diode with an oscilloscope and it turned out that the constant level is somewhere around + 30V, and the variable pulsations are higher. I replaced the diode, but it did not help, then I replaced the C8075 33.0x160v and everything returned to normal, the TV started up.

Video (click to play).

SUPRA STV1484DK chassis PC04 Very dark, almost invisible image, OSD behind the threshold of the tube closing. On cathodes of 220 V. Supply voltage VVU 240 V. instead of 180 c. It turned out: in the power supply circuit of pin 3 of the split tr-ra up to L804P 118 v. and cleanly, and after, at pin 3, the horizontal frequency pulses. Reason: C807S capacitance loss 47UF 160V.

SUPRA STV1484DK chassis RS04 When turned on with the network button, the TV enters standby mode and does not respond to commands from the remote control and from the front panel. It turned out that the STENDBY 12V voltage is not filtered. Reason: loss of capacitance C804S 1000 uF 16 V. After replacement, it turns on normally.

DAEWOO DMQ-1427/1457/2027/2057/2127/2157; SUPRA STV-2024; SHIVAKI STV-2012M4; NAM DMQ-2046 (Chassis: C-50); DAEWOO DTK-2053 (Chassis: C-52).

1. Tuning frequency drift. The inverter is built on the TA8701N. More often the L124 circuit is faulty (connected to pin 22), similar to the AFC circuit in AKAI CT-1407/2007 / 2107D. The built-in capacitor 47-51 pF is subject to replacement. The failure of the L125 circuit is also possible, its parameters are similar to those of L124. After replacing the capacitors, the usual procedure for sequential adjustment of the loops to the normal operation of the auto-lock system of stations.

2. Distorted, weak sound. The L128 circuit connected to the pin is guilty. 9 TA8701N. According to my data, the built-in capacitor has a nominal value of about 15 pF. We change it and tune it to the optimal sound.

SAMSUNG CK-3351/3362/5051/5314/5342/5361, SUPRA STV-2094 (Chassis: P68SA / SC), SAMSUNG CK / CW-3335/5035/5041/5081/5082/5318/5341 (Chassis: P69SA) , (Not less favorite devices of telemasters :-).

Does not keep the frequency of tuning to the TV program. These devices are built on the TDA8362 multifunctional microcircuit, which has only one tuning circuit at the IF frequency, connected to legs 2, 3 of AFC DET (T104). Again, the built-in capacitor with a capacity of about 68 pF is to blame. We change it to a hinged one and sequentially adjust the contour to normal auto-capture of stations (the setting is quite sharp).

Supra STV-20 on STR50103A - does not turn on from standby mode without warming up for 30 minutes. Change С4.7 * 50v to (+ 16v), set no more than 10.0

Supra CTV1485 MC-41A chassis, aka Goldstar GF-14/20 / 21A80 MC-41A / B. In SEKAME there is no blue color, in PAL everything is OK. In SECAMA, the blue B-Y core circuit is L504, does not react to rotation.Do not rush to change the TA8750AN microcircuit, swap the L504 and L502 circuits connected through capacitors to pins 35 and 29 of the TA8750AN. In my case, after rearranging the contours in places, everything worked, obviously, the soldering of the legs (inside) of the contour affected, after which a small adjustment of the contours is required.

SUPRA STV-2084... There is a high and a sound, the picture tube is locked. After about half an hour, a picture appears. Dried C416 50.0X250V.

SUPRA STV2128... Changing the size of the raster when changing the contrast. Dried condenser 1.0x160 V in the power supply unit.

Supra STV-2017... When turned on, a characteristic squeak is heard from the power supply. After five minutes of warming up, the squeak stops. During the squeak, some programs go astray. I soldered the PSU and SR and changed the capacitors in the PSU - everything is OK.

Supra STV 2112W aka Shivaki STV-2017M4. A noteworthy defect. Came to be repaired with a broken HOT. After the replacement, by the evening when it was taken out of standby mode, the transistor was knocked out on a new one. During further repairs, an interesting feature was noticed. When switching the device to the duty room, the line does not turn off. When turned on, like in American cinema, the TV started working instantly. In standby mode for ms TDA2579V, (master) in standby mode, the supply voltage is absent. Short-circuited the ms output on the page r.-ku to ground, the lower case still works. I planted the base of the pre-exit tr-ra on the ground, one devil is working in full mode. The defect turned out to be in the 115 volt supply. Made in the same way as in the old GoldStar, two tanks, one after the diode, the second after the choke. The second was dry. The power supply of the TMS is also taken from 115, and the pickup from the horizontal scan was enough to support the generation on the TMS.

Supra STV-2128MS and other TVs assembled on the C-50N (C-50AN) chassis, STR50103A is used as the main element of the power supply. The raster is narrowed both vertically and horizontally, at the top of the screen there is a twist in the frame, the adjustment to the channels is lost. When measuring the output voltage of the power supply, we observe a voltage of 60% of the nominal. When replacing electrolytic capacitors in the power supply unit C832, C830 (1μF / 160V), the malfunction disappears.

DAEWOO, SUPRA, ELEKTA (Chassis C-50NA) Defects manifest themselves in different ways: no start-up, narrowed screen horizontally and large vertical size, vertical twist. And there is only one malfunction - a low supply voltage of the power supply unit. Change C830, C832.

Supra STV-2900XT... No startup lowercase / no high. When measured on IC803 (7812), the input is 6 volts. It turned out that channel 12v is connected to channel 27v, and with a punctured personnel microcircuit, we have such a failure. Replace TDA3654Q.

Supra, STV-2024... No color, buzzing on sound. Unable to configure UPCHI. The inverter runs normally from the generator. Defective transistor Q503 (2SC3198) in the SYSTEM switching circuit.

Supra STV-2900XT... Fault: after replacing a burned-out 1000 pF 2000 V capacitor in the horizontal output stage, the horizontal scan does not start. When measured on IC 803 (7812), the input is 6 volts. The stabilizer output is overload. It turned out to be broken by the power supply of the TDA8145.

SUPRA STV2024 Fault: the standby mode does not light up, the TV does not turn on, no 103v., Breakdown of C453 3.3x250V on the picture tube board.

Supra STV2128... Chassis C-50N. Fault: very quiet sound. Normal operation was restored when the TA8701N IC was replaced.

SUPRA STV-2062DK (chassis C500) The main power supply is assembled on STK73410II. Fault: does not turn on from standby mode. Replace it and two litics C808 and C810.

SUPRA STV2084DK... (The scheme is typical for GOLDSTAR TVs). Fault: the screen is dark, when an accelerating voltage is added, the image appears with a strip at the top of the screen, when the + V supply voltage is added, the strip disappears, the image becomes brighter. The supply voltage of the video amplifiers has been increased to 224V instead of 180V. The C8065 47.0x160v turned out to be faulty. Along the way, I replaced the capacitor C406 1.0x160v.

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Supra STV-2017. Fault: the raster is narrowed horizontally and vertically, a fold in the image is frame-by-frame, the power supply is squealing. The voltage under load drops to 70V. Defective C830 (1.0x160V)

Image - Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

Recently, an active reader of my blog Master Sergey sent a story about his successful LCD TV repair Supra STV-LC2622W... His TV stopped turning on and he turned to me for advice.We read below what came of this.

LCD TV model SUPRA STV-LC2622W version V1J03
Inverter + PSU- MIP260B
Mine board-B.LT918C:
Processor - I could not disassemble it, because it is located under the radiator,
flash - 25L4005A MC
RAM - H5DU1262GTR-E3C
video processor - TDA8890H1 / N1B
tuner - TDQ-6F61T1260W
Matrix: M260TWR1.

Image - Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

Image - Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

Sergey began repairing the Supra LCD TV - he disassembled and checked all the tracks - it seems to be intact, then he checked the ceramic capacitors. I rang the details for a short circuit, I did not like the PWM microcircuit, because it had two legs closed.

Image - Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

This chip OB2262, analogues - OB2263, SG6848, SG5701, SG5848, LD7535, LD7550. Sergey replaced the PWM - put the LD7535, as shown in one of the diagrams for a similar TV.

Image - Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

When the TV was turned on, the duty LED blinked and clicks were heard in the speakers. From the remote control it turned on like this: when the voltage appeared, the standby mode came on and by pressing the remote control several times it was possible to get into the turn-on time and turn on the TV.

I measured the rest of the voltages - they appear and disappear in time with the blinking of the duty room LED.

Image - Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

I advised Sergey to replace the small electrolytes with which the PWM microcircuit is hung, because in my practice I periodically meet such defects. But it seems that the solution to the problem was different.

Sergey bought for 100 rubles. another microcircuit OB2263 and everything worked - the voltage is normal.

Turned on the TV - it works well, the remote control listens, but sometimes it does not turn on from the button on the TV. The details I checked on both boards do not heat up. Perhaps the power button needs to be cleaned. The repair was completed successfully and Sergey wrote the following a comment:

“… Denis, thank you so much! ... and can I describe to you such a case with my TV, I was not the only one who suffered so much ... I found it on the Internet with the same power supplies. If you write on your website, you will help radio amateurs. " Therefore, as I promised, I am spreading Sergey's case about the successful repair of the Supra STV-LC2622W LCD TV with my own hands - someone will definitely come in handy.

Then we switched to communication by e-mail and Sergey told how he repaired the soap bubble generator. But that's a completely different story.

I am writing for all readers of my blog - bolder ask for support to knowledgeable people on the Internet. Just describe your problem in detail so that the desire to help you does not turn into an interrogation. I am for freedom of information on the Internet and its benefits for ordinary people.

After working in the kitchen for about three years, suddenly such a small Supra LCD TV went out and stopped turning on. He did not react to pressing the buttons on the remote control and on the TV itself. The LED on the TV, somehow not stable, sometimes switched from red to green and vice versa.

I made a small animation. This is approximately how it looked in real life.

To begin with, I decided to delve into it myself, since sometimes I managed to fix the TVs on my own, although those TVs were tubular. He took it off the wall, disconnected the external power supply and antenna. After that, he unscrewed the homemade bracket so as not to interfere with the disassembly of the case.

This is actually its marking, model, number and other dregs.

I unscrewed ten self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter, they are not all the same, so we remember which one from where.

Then remove the cover. If you look at the photo below, then it must be pulled out from under these connectors, since it is slightly pressed by them.

Something like this looks like the insides of this TV model. Its power supply is external, and there are only a couple of boards inside the TV. Since I am far from an electrician, even very far away. Then he decided to inspect it himself, and then call specialists. For half a day I bumped it, in the hope that the breakdown lies in a bad or loose connection. I checked the voltage on the power supply with a tester, even changed it to another one, with a current slightly less than the prescribed one. I disconnected all the cables from the main board in turn. I also tried to find something suspiciously heating up, burned-out tracks on the board, etc. etc.

As a result, this TV was sent to x. (to the master), or rather, I summoned the master to him. Fortunately, their sharashka is located not far from the house, or rather the master is not far, since they most likely work in the districts, and the workshop itself is devil-where. He came quickly, for where else they give almost a piece for a look. With the tester, he poked a couple of times into the small board on the left (pictured below). I checked the power supply, then jabbed my finger at the processor (I think so) on the main board and said that it should be changed. Then, according to the price list, he named the approximate price of this upgrade, something about 3000r (the cost of the same TV at that time was about 5000r). Then he wrote out a referral to the workshop so that they would not do the diagnosis a second time.

In order not to further sponsor a home appliance repair company, at a family council they decided to buy a new TV for the kitchen. Yes, they have already picked it up and ordered it in an internet store. But since the order came on the weekend, there were still three days to wait for it. During this time, I tried to find friends in the network in misfortune. And on some forum I found something similar, where a person raised the topic of a malfunction with about the same symptoms as mine. There, in the comments, people referred to a voltage regulator, at the output of which the voltage sags. As a result, the TV does not turn on and does not react to anything.

It is located near the white shoe on top, under the black tourniquet. Having measured the voltage between the first and second terminals, it turned out that it is almost twice as low as 0.6v. Although there on the forum they say that there should be 1.26v.

Somehow this monster looks like this (stabilizer BM1117-ADJ), in size it is slightly larger than a match head 🙂 After going through a bunch of pieces of iron in the apartment, I found something similar, but with slightly different markings. Therefore, I decided to go to the Tsaritsyn radio market to find exactly the same one. But we couldn't find the same stabilizer there. Those who sell purely parts didn't have it. Unfortunately, I didn’t get it on used boards.

On bezrybe, I decided to put the one that I found on my sound card from the computer, that is, AMS1117.

For clarity, I sketched a diagram of the work done (photo below). After installing AMS1117, the voltage on pins 1 - 2 became 2.2v. But the TV still didn't turn on. Using the poke method, I tried to lower the voltage by soldering the resistor into the gap of the third terminal. I got this resistance by about 3-4 Ohms. Then the TV started up fine.

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Attention!
I am not an electrician and not even a radio amateur, I did all this out of sports interest, with the expectation that if I did not fix it, I would throw it out the window 🙂 Therefore, if you are afraid to set yourself or the TV set on fire, then in no case do all this. Either look for the original stabilizer, or bring it in for repair.

Since I have no resistance for 3-4 Ohms, I had to make it up of four resistors of 10 Ohms each, connected in parallel. In total, we got such a bandolier, which was melted into the rib of the TV case. And I stretched the ends from it to the stabilizer and the board. Due to the tightness, I had to solder the stabilizer itself with its end to the board. In general, in the pictures below, you can see this whole vegetable garden 🙂

In general, I had to cancel the order for a new TV, since this one has been working for a week. If you have the same TV or the same signs of illness, then try to find this stabilizer on the board and measure the voltage at its terminals. Perhaps your TV has something similar and you just need to replace this part. Most of all, it was upset that the master immediately rejected the TV. He didn't even bother to ring the processor's power supply circuits, or at least he would pretend that he was looking for a malfunction. Almost immediately straight to the forehead, take it to the workshop and give it another 3000. In my opinion, all his diagnostics initially boiled down to checking the power supply. The devil only knows how correct all this is, but so far everything works great.Maybe over time, experts in their field will unsubscribe in the comments.

After working with the new stabilizer for about a month, this TV still did not turn on about three times during this period. Therefore, out of four resistors, I had to leave only three, biting off one of them with side cutters. That is, instead of a 2.5 ohm resistor, it now costs

3.3 ohm. At the moment, it has worked for more than a year, there were no more glitches with the inclusion.

Recently I found and bought on Ali in this store, here are such BM1117-ADJ stabilizers, unfortunately in China they like to sell everything in wagons, so the minimum batch of such parts consists of five pieces and costs about 200r. And since the TV for some reason still works great on my substitution from the sound card, these new stabilizers are still lying around, sealed.

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Image - Supra TV do-it-yourself repair does not turn on