DIY repair Volvo C40

The laconic and reliable premium car Volvo S40 II attracts with its safety, original design, wear resistance and reasonable cost. However, each car has weak points and shortcomings and it is worth learning more about them before buying from hand. At first glance, we can say that any car can break down, anything, but it is important to know that any car has such parts, components and assemblies that fail more often than the resource assigned to it. Next, we will analyze the main and common diseases of the Volvo S40 II.

Problems with the steering rack may appear after a run of 100 thousand km. Its malfunction can be determined by the tangible and most obvious symptom - a characteristic knock. It manifests itself when driving on uneven roads and intensifies when you turn the steering wheel. Also, turning the steering wheel becomes tight in one or both directions, its vibration or incorrect return to its original position is possible. There may be a hum in the power steering. Look for oil stains under a parked vehicle. Leaking steering rack is also a sign of a broken steering rack. Therefore, it is imperative to make a test run before buying and indirectly determine the condition of the steering rack. If the above signs are heard and felt, then the best way would be to drive the car to the service station.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) keeps the engine running efficiently and reduces fuel consumption. If the valve of this system is faulty and dirty, then during the test drive at low rpm, there will be jerks and dips, as well as loss of power. Therefore, the work of cleaning or even removing the USR valve, although not very expensive, should pay attention to this nuance.

One of the weak points of this car is the electrician. When buying, you need to carefully check the operation of all systems. Most often, the audio system fails, the fans of the motor cooling system. Climate control, trunk lid may not work correctly. Electronics problems can include more serious problems, such as failure of the knee and camshaft position sensors. In this case, the engine may stop suddenly and no longer start, but at best, fuel consumption will greatly increase and jerks will appear during acceleration. Since they are responsible for which cylinder to ignite the mixture.

The timing drive in this car is of the belt type, and the camshafts are connected by a chain. Its wear, stretching on used cars is a frequent occurrence. You can find out about this when the engine is idling by the ringing sound. Untimely replacement of a worn chain can lead to serious problems and money costs.

The wheel bearings in the Volvo S40 II can wear out after 50,000 km. A test drive will help you to find out about this. In case of problems with wheel bearings, the car body begins to vibrate, an unpleasant sound appears, which increases when the steering wheel is turned. This check will also not take long, but it will save you money.

With a careful attitude with the gearbox, there are no problems, but with a mileage of more than 100 thousand kilometers in the manual transmission, the lever arm may become loose. Its replacement will cost more than 2,500 rubles. The resource of the automatic transmission is also not unlimited, and with high mileage, you should carefully look at how it works at different speeds. Gearbox wear is determined by transmission shocks, shifting jerks, and gear loss. Automatic transmission repair can cost from 50 to 130 thousand rubles.

Another equally common problem in the Volvo S40 ii is the starter bendix. It can also be called Volvo S40 II disease... As a rule, when the bendix fails, the starter buzzes but the engine shaft does not turn. In the case of a purchase, it will not be superfluous to ask when the bendex was replaced.

The device, maintenance and repair of Volvo S40 cars

This section covers procedures such as removing a Volvo engine, repairing the cylinder head, cylinder block, and other internal engine parts.
Information is provided to the fullest extent possible, from advice on getting ready and purchasing spare parts to step-by-step instructions for removing, inspecting, and replacing engine parts.
All information has been compiled with the engine removed from the vehicle. All information on the repair of a Volvo engine installed on a car, as well as on the removal and installation of some of its components, is given in the Volvo S40 engine section.

1 Install the remaining parts and components on the engine. Install the power unit to the vehicle. Check engine oil and coolant levels. Make sure to install all previously removed parts and components. Remove all tools and rags from the engine compartment.
2 Remove the spark plugs and turn off the ignition system. To do this, disconnect the camshaft position sensor wiring. To prevent fuel from entering the cylinders, disconnect the wiring from the injectors.

1 Before install pistons in cylinders, make sure. that the cylinder mirrors are absolutely clean. The crankshaft and intermediate section (main bearing caps) must already be installed.
2 Remove the cap from the first connecting rod. Remove both earbuds and thoroughly wipe both seats. They must be absolutely clean. Prepare new connecting rod cap bolts. When performing this operation on a diesel engine, we were able to purchase nuts only complete with bolts.

1 At this point, the pistons should already be attached to the connecting rods and the groove-to-ring clearances checked.
2 Before installing the rings on the piston, check the clearances of their locks as follows.
3 Lay out the pistons and corresponding rings in the order from the installation. Turn the cylinder block on its side.
4 Take the upper compression ring and install it in the first cylinder. Using the bottom of the piston, push it into the bottom of the cylinder. In this case, the ring will be located perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. Note that the cross-sections of the compression rings are different (there is a notch on the underside of the lower ring).

1 Installing the crankshaft is the first step in assembling the engine. The block and shaft must be absolutely clean and all faults must be repaired. Place the unit on a workbench or other horizontal surface with the crankcase facing up.
2 Remove the bearing shells from the block and intermediate section (covers) (if they were not removed during disassembly).

1 Before assembling the engine, prepare all the necessary tools and purchase all spare parts. Read the assembly sequence carefully and make sure you have everything you need. In addition to the usual locksmith tools, you will need special glue for fixing threaded connections. Remember that some parts will require new fasteners when installing. Also stock up on branded sealant and a short nap roller.

Checking Volvo S40 bearings

1 Although the bearings must be replaced anyway, a thorough inspection of the old ones will help you determine the condition of the motor.
2 The bearing can fail due to lack of lubrication, dirt on its surface, constant heavy loads or corrosion (fig. 212). If a bearing fails, then before installing new ones, find and eliminate the cause of the damage, that is, check the bearing, otherwise the new bearing will probably also fail soon.

Checking the cylinder block Volvo S40

8 Inspect the surface of the unit for damage, cracks and corrosion. When checking the unit, inspect the threads in the holes. If the engine previously had a coolant leak, check the unit at the original station using special equipment. If damage is found, the unit should be repaired or replaced.

Note. On petrol engines 1.8 and 2.0 liters, it is impossible to remove the intermediate section, as well as the crankshaft and pistons. Spare parts are not supplied separately, and new or remanufactured blocks are sold only complete with crankshaft and pistons. Therefore, the following sequence of steps only applies to 2.4 liter petrol and diesel engines.

Note. On petrol engines 1.8 and 2.0 liters, it is impossible to remove the intermediate section, as well as the crankshaft and pistons. Spare parts are not supplied separately, and new or remanufactured blocks are sold only complete with a crankshaft and pistons. Therefore, the sequence below is only applicable to 2.4 liter petrol and diesel engines.

Note. If you are not going to remove pistons and connecting rods, you do not need to remove the cylinder head. After disconnecting the connecting rods from the shaft, push the pistons up and leave them in the cylinders.

Checking connecting rods and pistons Volvo S40

9 Before checking the connecting rods, thoroughly clean the connecting rods and pistons and remove the piston rings.
10 Gently spread the rings and remove them one by one from the piston. To prevent the ring from falling into the upper grooves, insert several probes under it (Fig. 205). Do not scratch the piston surface with rings. Keep in mind that the rings are quite fragile, so don't push them too far apart. Also keep in mind that the surfaces are sharp end - do not injure your hands.

Note. On petrol engines of 1.8 and 2.0 liters, it is impossible to remove the intermediate section, as well as the crankshaft and pistons. Spare parts are not supplied separately, and new or remanufactured blocks are sold only complete with crankshaft and pistons. Therefore, the following sequence of steps only applies to 2.4 liter petrol and diesel engines.

Note... On petrol engines of 1.8 and 2.0 liters, it is impossible to remove the intermediate section, as well as the crankshaft and pistons. Spare parts are not supplied separately, and new or remanufactured blocks are sold only complete with crankshaft and pistons. Therefore, the following sequence of steps only applies to 2.4 liter petrol and diesel engines.

31 Dip the valve stem in oil and slide into the guide, then install the lower spring plate. Remember that on diesel versions the lower poppet is integrated with the valve stem seal.
32 As a rule, valve stem seals are supplied with dowel sleeves to protect the valve stem seals from damage when installed on the valve. If there are no bushings, wrap tape around the top of the valve stem. The tape should protrude about 10 mm above the stem.

21 Inspect all valve heads for holes, burn marks, cracks and wear. Check valve stem surfaces for wear and tear. Rotate the valve stem and make sure it is not bent. Also check the ends of the rods. If the described defects are found, the valve (or valves) must be replaced.

Note. Complete all of the following checkout procedures before concluding that head repair or replacement is required. Write down any problems you find.

10 Completely remove the remnants of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the lower section of the head and the cylinder block, as well as the sealant from the mating surfaces of the head sections. Since the head and block are made of soft metal, do not use metal scrapers - use special fluid and a thin, sharp knife.

Note.You will need special tools to complete this procedure. Spare parts may not be available. Alternatively, you can purchase a new or remanufactured head from your authorized Volvo dealer and specialist workshops. Consider this option carefully.

It is much more convenient to disassemble the engine if it is fixed on a portable stand. Such a stand can be rented from specialized workshops. Depending on the type of stand, you may need to remove the flywheel (faceplate). The engine is secured to the bench with bolts screwed into the base of the cylinder block.
If you do not have a do-it-yourself engine overhaul stand, mount the engine on a sturdy workbench or place it on the floor. Be very careful not to drop the engine or subject it to mechanical shock.

Installing the engine on modifications with a manual transmission
41 Center the clutch and make sure all clutch components are in place. Since the splines on the input shaft, the release bearing guide and the bearing itself are coated to reduce friction, do not lubricate them.
42 Slide the box onto the rails and press it against the engine. Screw in the box mounting bolts and tighten them with the required force. Install the starter.

Note. Here is the sequence for removing the power block assembly through the bottom of the engine compartment. When raising the vehicle, keep in mind that the distance to the ground must be at least 700 mm.

Volvo S40 repair manual will allow you to learn how to independently service Volvo S40 cars.

How to find a car malfunction, how to eliminate this malfunction, control of the technical condition of the car.

Repair of units, engine, body.

Electric network diagrams, power system, well, all the rest of the useful information on repairing volvo s40.

A quick search in the book will simplify your reading, and reduce the search for the necessary information on the operation and repair of the car.

Download volvo s40 operation and repair manual.

In September 1995, the S40 debuted. Initially, this Volvo was called S4 / V4, but after the Swedes were sued for using other people's abbreviations (as the sports modifications of Audi were designated), the model was urgently renamed S40. In the new model designation, the letter indicates the body type: S - sedan, V - pickup and C - coupe or convertible, and the numbers indicated the model number. The new S40 is completely different from its predecessors, both in design and construction.

Three types of engines were offered as the main driving force for this model: 2.0 l and 1.8 l petrol and 1.9 l turbodiesel.

The result of three years of work, based on customer feedback since 1995, is the new generation Volvo S40, which appeared in 2000. More than 1,500 parts have been changed on the updated model, resulting in more than 30 major improvements that extend to safety, quality, environmental performance, dynamic performance, comfort and design.

Volvo S40 - one of the safest cars in the middle class, has become even safer, more comfortable and convenient.

Fresh touches have been added to the exquisite design of the model: new bumpers, new enlarged side lights, new front fenders, new fog lights, new direction indicators and twin headlights, new side moldings, colors, new alloy wheels, new transparent taillights, new rear panel and a new wiper.

The wheelbase has increased by 12 mm, the vehicle length has increased by 33 mm, and the front wheel track has increased by 18 mm.

The Volvo S40 is the only vehicle in its class to be fitted with an inflatable curtain (IC) as standard on all variants. A two-level airbag is also installed.

A lot of changes have been made to the chassis: new front wheel suspension, new engine mounts, which significantly increase driving comfort, noise protection and handling on winter roads. The interior of the salon has undergone significant modernization. The center console has been seriously modified: a new climate control panel, new control positions, a more convenient lower shelf, a new design of the audio system, window and mirror controls have been moved to the doors. Added a new multifunctional console above the tunnel, new seats and two new types of upholstery.

The Volvo S40 is a front-wheel drive vehicle with a transverse four-cylinder engine. You can choose from one of three petrol engines or a diesel engine. The turbocharged version has 200 hp.

All of these engines react very quickly and powerfully to the movement of the accelerator pedal. This allows you to pick up speed very quickly when exiting a bend or when overtaking a truck. It also means fewer gear changes in urban environments.

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We are glad to welcome all car enthusiasts, auto mechanics, locksmiths and simply interested ones to our car portal. The site> is made for you and we will try to help you repair your car.

Today we will explain how to replace and repair spark plugs in Volvo S40 / V40. If your candles left and you decided to replace them, then our video tip will certainly help. What difficulties are expected during their installation?

If you want to repair the spark plugs in your VOLVO S40 / V40 with your own hands, then it will not be difficult to complete all the repair steps. To understand the process of replacement and repair, watch our video instruction to independently replace spark plugs in Volvo C40 / B40.

This is not my first car from the country of the Baltic winds. Before that, there was a Toyota Kaldina with a right-hand drive from the land of the rising sun, and even before that, the VAZ 2106 was produced by the plant, well-known to all of us.

Riding Kaldino at a certain point, I began to think about changing the iron horse and of course I was thinking about purchasing a European.
Acceleration of my thoughts was given by new technical regulations, as well as periodically arising rumors about the prohibition of the operation of right-hand drive cars.
After some deliberation, after consulting with his wife, it was decided to closely tackle the issue of buying a European car.

Began trips to the car market, study of advertisements in newspapers, reading reviews and advertisements on the Internet, car inspections. As a result, I picked up several options, looked, but when I saw a Volvo C40 in the car market and even rolled, doubts were almost over.

When buying, of course, there were doubts about spare parts - spare parts such as expensive, service, but remembering the quality of Swedish cars, I nevertheless decided to buy a used Volvo C40.

And now I have been driving the Swedish beauty Volvo S40 for several years.

The impression of the car is good, although I still cannot understand how the 105 hp engine is. can move 1500kg of car mass so quickly!

I was worried about how a car made in a country of smooth asphalt roads would behave on our potholes. But nothing, in general, it's okay.

Winter came and the problem of cold starting the Volvo C40 engine arose. Cold start is when it is -30 at night, and in the daytime, when it gets warmer -23. I left the car on such a night on the street, in the morning I looked - all covered in hoarfrost.
What to do, you have to start. Spun the starter one, two, three, four…. The engine will not start and the battery is already running out. An acquaintance drives up in a car, throw in the wires, "light up" a couple of times we turn the starter and .... MIRACLE… the car started up and it was after freezing to -30.

This time I started the car in such a frost, but I didn’t experiment anymore, and I don’t advise you either.

Winter has passed, it became hot outside and a problem with the Volvo C40 air conditioner appeared.
Of course, when there is only one big air conditioner outside the street at -30, you don't even remember about its presence in the car.

But it got hot and at one point, after the car stood in the May sun and the heat of heated seats smelled from the open door, the switched on air conditioner began to work, cool, but then some kind of sound appeared and stopped working.

It became noticeable immediately, in principle, it is not yet so hot inside the Volvo cabin, and after leaving the track, the car has cooled down.

But re-inclusion clearly showed that there is a problem. Because after turning on the air conditioner, there was no cold in the cabin.
I started looking for faults in the air conditioning system.

When you turn on the AC on the Volvo C40 dashboard, in theory, the compressor clutch should turn on, which ensures the rotation of the compressor and, accordingly, the start of the air conditioner.

When the clutch is turned on, this is heard by the appearance of an additional sound, and a slight increase in engine speed.
It can also be identified visually - on a roller, on the outside of which a black triangle starts spinning.

By the way, here I was checking if my compressor was stuck. To do this, I rotated this triangle with my hand (of course, I turned off the engine.). Scrolled with effort.

While I was testing all this and figuring out what could be a compressor malfunction on a Volvo, my compressor began to make sounds that I did not attach importance to at first.

If the air conditioner turns on, then, in addition to changes in the engine operation, sounds from the compressor appeared, small, but the compressor clearly began to emit grinding sounds that disappeared or appeared.

The reason was established - it was the compressor.
Without waiting for him to be deadly jammed so that the belt began to slip, he quickly began to look for where to repair it.

I arrived at the service station, the diagnosis was confirmed. Repair of the air conditioner compressor is required.

The price that was named for the new original Volvo compressor upset me - I'd rather drive from the fans in the cabin, so I thought at the first moment.

Then, on reflection and rummaging through the Internet, I found offers for the sale of used air conditioner compressors on the Volvo C40. The prices turned out to be quite reasonable.
I will not voice the name of the company, so as not to be considered an advertisement.

I bought an air conditioner and there was a passion for sports = but little to change myself.

On Sunday I put everything aside, go to the garage and start poking around.
In practice, everything turned out to be not so difficult,

How to replace an air conditioner compressor on a Volvo C40.

- disconnect the diffuser from the radiator (so that you can remove the compressor)

- take out the diffuser
- weaken the belt tensioner roller and remove the belt itself. (here we immediately check the roller by twisting it several times by hand. If the roller hums when scrolling, then you can change the bearing on it) My roller did not hum.

- further we loosen (carefully!) One of the nozzles on the compressor. Look, liquid can flow from the compressor here, prepare a rag.
- we listen to how, as both pipes weaken, the refrigerant leaves the system.

- we wait until all freon is gone
- completely, but carefully unscrew the compressor pipes, but without damaging the O-rings.
- loosen and unscrew the 4 mounting bolts of the compressor.
- remove the air conditioning compressor.

We lay down on the workbench and twist it by the pulley - extraneous sounds are clearly audible when scrolling.

Next, we take a used air conditioner compressor that was purchased in advance and start installing it.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

- we put on 4 fastening bolts
- then we stretch them well so that the compressor fits into place
- carefully insert the pipes into their places and twist them, make sure not to damage the O-rings
- put on the belt
- we tighten the belt with the tensioner roller. You need to pull well BUT WITHOUT FANATISM. Over-tightening a belt is just as bad as under-tightening.
-check the belt tension - it should bend a little.
-insert the diffuser back
-attach the diffuser to the radiator.

We check everything again and start the engine. The engine started, when the air conditioner is turned on, there is no extraneous noise, however, there is no cold either.
It is understandable - all the freon came out when the compressor was changed.

I go to the refrigerators and fill the air conditioner.

I start the engine, I feel how the cold has gone. The cabin is quiet, good and cold :-).

The guys really turned out to be work for two hours and that's it. I understood more what to unscrew where.

As a conclusion. Over the entire period of operation, I personally made sure of the actual quality of the Swedish car.
Now, when I hear that Volvo is a car for the rich, I get a smile on my face.

No, in no case can I say that the Volvo C40 has no flaws at all, they are, no one argues with that.
For example, low ground clearance, because of which I periodically catch the road with my belly, or, for example, too wide body pillars that are so wide that sometimes they interfere with the view. Yes, there is such a thing, but the car is normal.
Moreover, I must say that I took the car off hand, not new, with a mileage of about 100 thousand km. Even so, the car is normal.

Volvo S40 / V50 from 2004 to 2007

Year of issue: 2009

The manual includes routine maintenance of the car - a simple weekly inspection, maintenance - full step-by-step instructions, troubleshooting - a simple solution to specific problems, the brake system - monitoring, diagnostics and repair, the power system - the necessary explanations, the engine - adjustments of components and assemblies, repair , electrical equipment - diagnostics and repair, colored electrical diagrams - easy search for elements, recommendations for use, detailed links - quick search for necessary information.

The purpose of the publication is to help the owner use the full potential of the vehicle. First of all, the user will be able to understand which of the machine units requires maintenance or repair, as well as assess the possibility of eliminating the breakdown on his own. The manual also provides a complete list of periodic maintenance procedures, the most common malfunctions, their diagnostics, methods of detection and elimination.

Some procedures take so little time that it is easier to complete the process yourself than to sign up for a service station, drive the car there, and then pick it up. You can save not only your time, but also money!

The book VOLVO S40 / V40 / V50 (2004 - 2007) gasoline / turbodiesel describes operations for changing belts (timing, drive), oil in the gearbox and engine. Describes how to replace the brake pads yourself. How to replace fuel, oil and air filters without visiting a car service.

Volvo S40 owner reviews. Has anyone poured VALVOLIN oil into a Volvo engine? And if so, how did she show herself?

Volvo S40, V50 - cars manufactured by Volvo Cars. There are two generations in total, the first in 1995, the second in 2004, and was also restyled in 2008.

So I decided to write a review about my former car - Volvo S40, 2007 onwards, L., 125 hp, manual gearbox, color - dark burgundy metallic.

Disadvantages of a Japanese with a German heart. This means that the runs will be serious, and the operation will be tough. The car was in operation in the same family. The good news: repairs are not that expensive, spare parts are widely available, the box is well known in services, and there have long been means to extend its life. The relatively low price of brakes on cars with engines up to two liters is further reduced if you look at the details from Fords.

This is what we will try to figure out now. The updated cars are easily recognizable by the updated bumpers, radiator grille with a large logo, exhaust pipe and head optics. The rear of the car received a modified apron, and LED optics began to be installed in the headlights.

In addition to the refreshed design, the car received an original interior trim and added power, the avant-garde interior is made in high-tech style. And if you see rust on the body of a car, it means that the car was involved in an accident, and its owner saved a lot on repairs. The two-liter engine has a timing chain drive, and is less whimsical to maintain, but unfortunately a car with such a power unit is quite rare. The weak point of all engines is the thermostat, which often fails ..

If the oil is not changed, then the transmission may overheat, as a result the valve body fails, the repair of which will not be cheap. If you are or were the owner of this car brand, please share your experience, indicating the strengths and weaknesses of the car. Your e-mail will not be published. High level of safety and comfort. Build quality and materials. Reliable components and assemblies. Large selection of non-original spare parts.

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Do-it-yourself steering wheel heating. DIY seat belt repair. Do-it-yourself car soundproofing. The authorship of the photo and video materials belongs to their legal owners.