I think not, he probably just bends, and that's why it gets stuck.
Well, so it is necessary to buy a normal riveting machine with adjustment and that's it. the two-hander never hovered over me. everything works like clockwork. but in general, it gets stuck, I do not pay attention. when you put the next rivet, the previous one automatically flies out if it gets stuck.
In, for sure, I, too, somehow do not worry about this.
but in general, I will tell you a secret - the best riveters are those with three petals inside - they do not slip, they hold stronger and wear out longer, respectively. and they fit the rod better, which by the way is easier and easier to insert into a three-lobed collet
novak, both. And third: you need to adapt
_maximus_, Novus, for example.
Half-meter two-handed jonesway without adjustments, likes to bite the shanks of rivets 5-6mm. Cleaned-washed, does not save
also Bralo, Gesipa. They make very useful things like rivets with external threads or a countersunk head.
Yes, judging by the price in Ukraine, it should already be firm A.
rivets are different, mostly those that I bought at every corner - I don’t think that it was in them that the dog rummaged. change the device and that's it.
novak wrote:
and what is the point if it is not regulated? spend a bunch of dough on expenses? so it is better to take the right one, which with a cheap expense can work tolerably well, then the benefits will be correct. it's like the original DVD-pirated copies are not read and are expensive, but buying nothing special you will not look at, only a license for 1kRub.
greg111 wrote:
and what should be regulated in it?
The degree of spring tension, which presses on the jaws, is adjustable, but this practically does not affect the result. Although, when the spring is as tight as possible, the rod will fly out the worst of all.
I had to try to understand it myself.
It is quite possible that it will be enough to drill a hole in the head a couple of tenths.
novak wrote:
it is possible if the collet is three-lobed, then the flattening of the rod will be less due to a more uniform girth. so I advise you to look at just such a device.
greg111 wrote:
you did not understand. the photo shows two types of dents on the stitch. there were rivets under the body ... It is these two symmetrical dents that give the rod diameter almost 2 tenths plus, and it is in this place that the rod gets stuck when pulled out. This is the problem of making rivets.
By the way, the rod that I pulled through the Stanley riveter, although with difficulty, touching the edges, can be inserted again into the holok of the same apparatus. But, in the head of Sigma, he does not enter, even hammer with a hammer. The Chinese have more tolerances for the head hole, that's the result.
VIDEO Why is the rivet shank stuck in the rivet. DIY repair. Village life. Subscribe to the channel -
# Tool # Construction # Riveter. Simple improvements. Video: 1 device. 2-principle of operation. 3 - -improvement .. Works like a typist of blind typing.
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I put the attachment one size up and nothing gets stuck
Thank you - now it's clear, otherwise it just killed you to poke around 10 - 20 times so that the stub would fall out ..
I always push the old one with a new rivet and in 99% of cases it helps and everything starts working again
Thanks man really helped rides like clockwork
the first rivet in the new rivet is stuck. also had to be disassembled. Thanks for the review - if I know what to adjust next time.
always gets stuck. just insert the next one and the stuck rod is pushed out. no problem.
It's a pity to watch and listen to how it creaks. Lubricate it finally.
I was just tired of this operation for disassembly and assembly! Horror . Enough for a couple of times, disassemble again.
For starters, just lubricate and everything will work out.
on my not only, after all he stopped biting off?
Bliiin! How many times, when squeezed with such a rivet, I pinched the skin on my palm to a bruise.
For another reason, the rod did not fall out for me, the spring was bent, he was already old, he picked up another spring and continues to work.
On the contrary, it does not capture the rivet shaft. What to do?
Thank you, useful video, this is also a problem, and CSE CHSE is apparently unhappy because it sells them, saying that repairs are very expensive and it is cheaper to buy a new one.
Thank you, I have the same problem tomorrow I will try to sort it out. Like.
Repair - elimination of a malfunction by restoring or replacing worn out, broken, defective parts.
5 minutes and renovated. already wanted to buy a new one)))
Thank you very much! I'm 13 years old, only the rivet itself got stuck, I had to knock it out, and the riveter himself is different, in general, thanks)
why not attach a hook to the hole? hooked the spring, pulled it over and that's it. in theory, it should be in place after the shake-up. removed the hook-work further.
Thank you, I must try, otherwise the new riveter is going to the scrap)))
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Riveting has always been a difficult and time-consuming process with a lot of flaws and various nuances. It was not always possible to approach both sides of the spliced parts during work, and considerable physical exertion had to be applied. There was no question of performing the process at home.
Attention! This kind of riveter provides trouble-free access to both working sides at the same time. No additional support is required to get the job done.
The only manipulation that the master needs to perform is making a hole for the riveting entrance. After that, it is very quickly fixed with the tool. With the help of a riveter, most of the known roofing materials are fastened (for example, a profiled sheet), and also corners, pipes, etc. are fixed.
Riveted joints are very reliable. They are highly vibration-resistant. Unlike welding, such fasteners will never burst suddenly. If we compare a rivet with a screw connection, then it is much more expensive. After all, in fact, it is just a small piece of soft wire.
The riveter consists of the following parts:
A head that fits over the rivet core.
The body, which is the base for the stop and the lower handle at the same time.
Top handle. This part of the tool rests on the body with an axle and acts as a power lever.
The working sleeve compresses the collet jaws after the handles are squeezed. As a result of their joint work, the rivet rod is firmly fixed.
Further, using the same collet jaws, the rod is pulled out of the sleeve. A riveted ring is formed.
While the foreman unclenches the handles, the taper bushing expands the collet mechanism and it returns to its original position.
The spring is supported by the cover. If it is necessary to inspect the cams, the riveter is disassembled and removed.
The housing has a place for replaceable heads. They are selected depending on the diameter of the rivet.
Generally speaking, the riveter is a pistol equipped with two mechanisms:
The first pulls the rivet inward, where it is flattened using a lever system. As a result, the parts are firmly connected to each other.
Each riveter has several attachments of different diameters. This allows fasteners of different lengths to be used.
They work with the riveter like this:
The parts that need to be connected are applied to each other and securely (sometimes with the help of a magnet) fixed.
Make a hole. Its diameter should be a couple of mm larger than the rivet size.
A consumable is inserted into the resulting hole.
A head is screwed onto the riveter, the diameter corresponding to the rod.
They push the tool to the very side and squeeze the handles. If the rod does not come off the first time, the compression is repeated. Sometimes you need to do several approaches.
The metal for the rivet sleeve is selected depending on what material the parts that need fasteners are made of. Usually these are soft types: copper or aluminum. They are easily deformed and do not corrode. The pull rod is made of steel.
The size of the rivets for the tool must correspond to the thickness of the material. For strength, select the smallest possible diameter. In addition, when choosing a riveter in a store, be sure to check the correspondence of the set of heads to the diameter of the rivets.
Advice. Do not connect parts with large diameter rivets. This reduces the strength of the workpiece and makes the finished product look unaesthetic.
Too long rivet body reduces the strength of the joint. It has been empirically proven that a length 1-1.5 cm larger than the diameter is best suited. This is how the riveter makes a strong and beautiful connection. The total length of the rivet body can be completely different. Indeed, sometimes you need to connect fairly thick workpieces. The dimensions of the core do not particularly affect the process. The main thing here is its compatibility with the heads.
A hand or blind riveter is a very convenient and versatile tool. With its help, you can quickly and firmly connect parts at home without the help of professionals.
VIDEO
The riveted connection method is the fastening of two or more metal sheets by means of cylindrical rods, at the ends of which there are heads. Pre-drilled holes in the parts to be joined. A rivet with one head made in advance is inserted into the hole and a second head is formed. The heads of the rivets pull the sheets together and prevent them from being torn off. The rod of this fastener prevents lateral mutual displacement of parts and is subjected to shear forces.
Riveted joints are used in the production of bodies:
for fixing sheets (most often made of light alloys);
for fixing parts made of plastic materials;
when assembling frames.
When repairing, this method is most often used to replace corroded body sheathing when welding is unreliable. Riveted joints are especially common when repairing floors - the damaged area is replaced with a new panel. A well-made rivet seam is not inferior in strength to a welded seam.
Simple ones have a solid core. The crown can be cylindrical, round or countersunk (flat). These fasteners are used when there is good access to both surfaces of the sheets to be fastened, because a pneumatic or manual hammer is used to form the second flat.
Special rivets have a tubular rod and the factory head has a hole in the center. The second cap is obtained by pulling and then tearing off a mandrel (rod with a thickened end). The result is a thick shoulder head. The second method is that a cylindrical rod is pushed through, as a result of which the inner shoulder expands and transforms into an outer one.Special ones are used in cases:
the back surface of the sheets to be joined is inaccessible or difficult to access;
for bonding metal to laminated parts;
for fixing decorative parts.
simple fasteners have less bending capability;
special ones are better rolled.
In practice, during repairs, the hole diameter is determined by the dimensions of the drills available. For small diameter rivets used in tinning, the total gap should be within 0.5 mm. The hole, if possible, should be machined - remove the burrs that formed during drilling from the inner surface.
Before drilling the sheets, choose the length and diameter of the rivets. For example, for floor mounting of a body with a metal thickness of 0.6 mm and a sheet of 1.0 mm, the diameter of the fastener will be approximately 4.0 mm. In the case of using special rivets, the sheets to be joined may be thicker than it is permissible for simple ones. This is applicable if little forces are exerted on the fastening elements. Sheets of body cladding are subjected to vibration loads, torsional and bending stresses arising when the vehicle is moving on an uneven road. They make the fasteners play. Since in the case of large forces it is required to take the diameter of the fastening element larger than the calculated one, for the above example the diameter will be 5.0 mm.
The length of the rivets is selected depending on their type. For simple ones, it is determined by the length of the rod. Therefore, the length of the fastener is calculated as the sum of the thicknesses of the parts to be joined and the thickness of the metal required to fill the gap between the hole and the rivet and to form the head. When forming a round closing head, a rod length equal to 1.5 diameters is added to the total sheet thickness. To determine the dimensions of special fasteners, use the tables supplied by the manufacturers.
Regardless of the type, during the repair it is necessary to use rivets of the same material as the sheets to be fastened. Aluminum fasteners will gradually deteriorate when riveted to brass, copper, corrosion-resistant or common steel. In a more humid atmosphere, this process will be more noticeable, since electrolytic vapor is formed.
Installation procedure for plain rivets:
The sheets are fastened with bolts through 5 - 6 holes drilled for riveting. Mismatched holes are processed by re-drilling or by reaming.
The fasteners are installed with the head to a thinner sheet.
The head of the fastener is mounted on a massive anvil. They use a riveting stand for round heads - this will protect the head from deformation.
A mandrel is put on the rivet rod, on which several blows are applied with a hammer. The sheets should be pressed against the cap.
The upsetting mandrel is removed and impacts are made along the axis of the fastener rod. As a result, the fastening element, collapsing, first fills the hole, and then forms the blank of the closing head.
They strike at the edges of the riveting at an angle, making a hat.
A riveting mandrel is installed on the head and the formation is completed. When riveting fasteners with countersunk heads, as a result of flattening with a hammer, the metal is crumpled and fills the countersink.
The mounting bolts are removed, and fasteners are installed in their place.
Installation of special rivets:
A.1 for simple fasteners.
The rivet is inserted into the hole, a rolling rod is inserted into the broaching device.
The head is pressed with effort against the sheets, which are squeezed together.
The stretching device is activated until the fastener rod comes off.
A.8 for simple ones.
Application for riveting the stitching rod:
In most cases, the piercing rod is driven in with a hammer. During operation, it is required to control the tightness of adhesion of sheets to each other by applying force near the riveting head.
The pressing of the cap to the sheets occurs under the action of the advancement of the piercing rod (it is hit with a hammer).
VIDEO
A pneumatic hammer is used to mechanically install simple rivets. Short successive strokes result in head formation. When using fasteners made of aluminum, light alloys, pneumatic pistols are used, which shape the cap in 1 blow. Special rivets are installed mechanically if the rolling pin is pull type.
occurrence of simple rivets;
a thickening forms between the sheets - as a result, the size of the head decreases;
poor flaring of special fasteners is a consequence of insufficient length;
the riveting movement in the hole is a consequence of the large gap between the hole and the inserted fastener, which does not expand enough to fill the gap.
Why is the rivet shank stuck in the rivet. DIY repair. Village life. Subscribe to the channel - goo.gl/IcHbln
Yruzan Chelaba 13 dias atrás
Alik Shulov What to do 11 dias atrás
It's a pity to watch and listen to how it creaks. Lubricate it finally.
Alik Shulov What to do 11 dias atrás
Igor Sokolov 26 dias atrás
Unforgettable lubrication with petroleum jelly)
Dima Protopopov Mês atrás
the first rivet in the new rivet is stuck. also had to be disassembled. Thanks for the review - if I know what to adjust next time.
I put the attachment one size up and nothing gets stuck
Alexander Omelchenko 3 meses atrás
on my not only, after all he stopped biting off?
Alik Shulov What to do 3 meses atrás
It is necessary to disassemble and look.
I was just tired of this operation for disassembly and assembly! Horror . Enough for a couple of times, disassemble again.
Alik Shulov What to do 4 meses atrás
I don't know, I'm fine.
Thanks a lot. Like me
Alik Shulov What to do 4 meses atrás
Alexis Merqury 5 meses atrás
always gets stuck. just insert the next one and the stuck rod is pushed out. no problem.
hamid cabrailov 5 meses atrás
Alik Shulov What to do 5 meses atrás
Andriy Mykolajovich Aleksandrov 6 meses atrás
Bliiin! How many times, when squeezed with such a rivet, I pinched the skin on my palm to a bruise. He told everything correctly. Like. 310.
Alik Shulov What to do 6 meses atrás
Igor Bykov 7 meses atrás
On the contrary, it does not capture the rivet shaft. What to do?
Alik Shulov What to do 24 dias atrás
Try to stretch the spring.
Anton Gladilchenko Mês atrás
the spring pushing the wedge has weakened
Alik Shulov What to do 7 meses atrás
I don’t know, maybe the inside of the jaws has worn off, where the rod is inserted.
sava ababei 7 meses atrás
Thanks man really helped rides like clockwork
Alik Shulov What to do 7 meses atrás
Vyacheslav Ivanov 7 meses atrás
For another reason, the rod did not fall out for me, the spring was bent, he was already old, he picked up another spring and continues to work.
Alik Shulov What to do 24 dias atrás
In auto parts show can pick up.
Alexander Omelchenko 3 meses atrás
where to get such a spring?
Alik Shulov What to do 7 meses atrás
For starters, just lubricate and everything will work out.
Alik Shulov What to do 8 meses atrás
Vladimir Zaycev 8 meses atrás
Alik Shulov What to do 8 meses atrás
Vlad Kudasov 8 meses atrás
Alik Shulov What to do 8 meses atrás
why not attach a hook to the hole? hooked the spring, pulled it over and that's it. in theory, it should be in place after the shake-up. removed the hook-work further. theory, while only plans to buy a riveter.
Alik Shulov What to do 9 meses atrás
Don't think about it yet. Thank you.
aleksandr volkov 9 meses atrás
Thank you, useful video, this is also a problem, and CSE CHSE is apparently unhappy because it sells them, saying that repairs are very expensive and it is cheaper to buy a new one.
Alik Shulov What to do 9 meses atrás
Ed Krasnodarsky 9 meses atrás
5 minutes and renovated. already wanted to buy a new one)))
Ed Krasnodarsky 9 meses atrás
Alik Shulov What to do 9 meses atrás
Repair - elimination of a malfunction by restoring or replacing worn out, broken, defective parts. In your video - work with a tool in violation of technology and elimination of the consequences of rash actions. What kind of repair are we talking about? If you, while walking around the construction site in your indoor slippers, pierce the shoe with a nail and pull the nail out with a nailer, will your video be called “Shoe Repair”?
Alik Shulov What to do 10 meses atrás
Video (click to play).
Repair is different. Types of repair. Cosmetic - restoration of appearance without interfering with the structure (common name for current repairs). Reconditioning (Medium) - usually performed with the replacement of parts of the device that have undergone wear, or with their modification (surfacing, boring, soldering, etc.) Current - repairs in order to restore serviceability (operability), as well as maintain performance. Overhaul - involves disassembling and revising the structure in order to identify hidden faults and assess the resource of parts, replace not only faulty parts, but also parts that have exhausted their resource. Such repairs involve a large amount of work and significant costs. Scheduled (scheduled preventive) - repairs in the time interval planned by the regulations. It is performed after the device has exhausted its resource, or if the device's performance after a malfunction is partially preserved, or partially restored as a result of restorative repair. Allows you to notify users in advance about the termination of operation, as well as to plan the costs associated with equipment downtime.
