Everyone can make a simple chipboard stool on their own, since the design of the product is simple, and old furniture can be used as a material. This stool can be useful in the kitchen, hallway, workshop or utility room.
There is a wide range of products on the market. Stools can have a soft seat, be part of furniture corners or be sold separately, have a simple rectangular shape or curly cut, etc. A variety of color palette allows you to choose a product for any interior. Puffs are also sold for hallways. They are boxes with soft seats. You can put small things or interior items in them.
A significant disadvantage of finished models is their high cost. The cheapness and availability of the material, the simplicity of the design allow you to make a do-it-yourself stool from chipboard.
You don't need to be a professional carpenter to make your own stool. It is enough to have basic woodworking skills. To do this, you need a minimum set of tools and chipboard, which you can buy or use elements of old furniture. The advantage of a do-it-yourself stool is the variety of shapes. Everything is limited only by the imagination of the performer.
Before starting work, you should prepare the necessary tools, materials and place of work. In advance, you should choose the shape of the stool, its color, determine whether the seat will be soft or hard, and draw up a drawing.
As a material, you can choose chipboard or laminated chipboard (chipboard). The advantages of the first are that it can be painted in any color and its price is lower. Chipboard is a chipboard sheet, which is lined with paper-resin film. For the manufacture of such a film (laminate), paper with a pre-created texture, color or ornament is used. The paper is stiffened by impregnation with melamine resin, after which the chipboard is combined with the laminate. The advantages of laminated chipboard are as follows:
Leatherette or fabric can be used as an upholstery material. If the choice is made in favor of fabric, then it is advisable to give preference to dense materials - they are less amenable to wiping. You also need to purchase a finishing tape that is glued to the edges of the stool parts. It is chosen according to the color and width of the chipboard.
The design of the stool is quite simple. It consists of:
The schemes differ from each other in size, shape of the side pillars and the seat. The last element is most often made square or round. The side racks of the stool and lintel come in various shapes. The simplest option provides for the rectangular shape of the uprights and lintels.
You don't have to buy chipboard to make a stool for the kitchen. You can use scraps or take elements of old furniture. First, you need to transfer the dimensions of all parts to the chipboard. The lines should be clearly visible so that it is convenient to cut along them.
If using a jigsaw, cut with a fine-toothed file at maximum speed.After cutting out all the elements, it is necessary to clean the edges with sandpaper so that there are no chips and burrs.
The jumper can be attached to the posts using self-tapping screws or a tongue-and-groove connection. In the latter case, you need to make a groove in the racks. To do this, drill holes of the appropriate diameter close to each other from the top to the bottom marks. Then, with a file, align the groove so that the spike of the jumper fits snugly into it.
If the design of the stool does not provide for such a connection, it is fixed with self-tapping screws or Euro screws. To do this, make guide holes with a drill in the marked places and connect all the elements to each other. To make the stool look more aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to use a drill with sweat. If this is not the case, you can use a simple one, the diameter of which corresponds to the size of the cap. To hide the screws, plugs are used.
All holes must be made strictly perpendicular and in the center. Particular attention must be paid to securing the side struts. Poor fixation of the legs can lead to loosening of the entire structure and falling off the stool.
After assembling all the parts, the furniture edge is glued. This is done as follows:
The glue hardens in less than 1 minute. Last but not least, the seat is covered with soft material. The upholstery fabric is attached to the chipboard with staples from a construction gun.
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Stools with three or four legs, which are fixed to a hard or soft seat by means of threaded metal axles through a metal frame or curved metal plates, are widespread. Usually, the legs for greater stability of the stool are installed at an angle, which leads to uneven load on the thread, the legs are unscrewed, the thread deteriorates, and they begin to stagger and fall out. To prevent damage to the threads, it is necessary to tighten them in a timely manner in the event of a weakness in the fastening of the legs.
When the beautiful fronts for kitchen furniture appeared, I replaced all the doors and front walls of the drawers with modern MDF. The color changed and the stools of Soviet production with rectangular seats of the color of blue sky and dark legs began to stand out strongly, introducing disharmony into the design of the kitchen. I decided not to buy new stools, but to remake the old ones, since the old facade of the kitchen left the doors in good condition from laminated chipboard of a suitable color.
According to the shape of the seat, the stools could be made round or rectangular, with right angles or rounded. The choice fell on the seats with a square shape with rounded corners. Sitting on stools with seats of this shape is more convenient, they are easier to manufacture, the corners do not spoil the walls and doors of kitchen cabinets when they touch, and it is easier to paste over the ends of the seats with furniture edge.
After marking the chipboard sheets, they must be carefully cut without damaging the surface of the slab along the saw line. It is best to cut with a saw with hardened fine teeth. The question of which saw is better to cut, and the technology of sawing chipboard sheets, is discussed in detail on the page How to make a cornice for window curtains.
If you want to make a round stool seat, then after marking, you first need to cut a round blank from a chipboard sheet with an electric jigsaw, and then give a perfectly round shape to the ends of the seat using the technology described in the article How to make a table with a round table top.
For pasting the ends, a decorative furniture edge is best suited, the back side of which is covered with hot melt glue. The edge is glued quickly, does not require special skills in work, after the glue has cooled, it adheres tightly and is not afraid of moisture.
To glue the edge from the tool, you will need an electric iron, scissors and a boot knife.First, you need to cut off a piece of furniture edge from the roll along a length slightly larger than the perimeter of the butt end of the stool seat. Further, the seat is fixed in a vice or in any other way, since you have to hold the iron in one hand, and hold the edge with the other. The handle of the electric iron temperature regulator is turned clockwise until three points coincide with the mark on the iron body, that is, the heating temperature is set to about 150˚C and the iron is connected to the network.
While the electric iron is heating up, you need to attach the furniture edge to the end of the stool in such a way that its edges protrude equally from both sides beyond the corners of the edge along the entire applied length. This is necessary so that the end of the edge does not leave the plane of the butt end at the end of the gluing. The edge is rigid and practically does not bend to the sides.
When the iron has warmed up, it must be applied to the furniture edge and slowly moving, with slight pressure, draw over the area of the surface of the furniture edge. Glue does not get on the soleplate of the iron and you can do without a pad.
Next, the iron is removed and the quality of adhesion and the accuracy of the edge orientation relative to the center of the ends of the stool seat are checked. The edges of the flange should fit snugly against the ends without air gaps. If there are gaps, then you need to iron these places with a hot iron again. If the edge is crooked, then you need to iron it again until the glue warms up and correct its position. It is convenient to work with hot melt glue, since when it is reheated it becomes liquid again, which makes it easy to correct mistakes made during gluing.
Having ironed the furniture edge along the entire length of the end of the seat, the edge is trimmed at the junction to size and glued completely.
After gluing the furniture edge around the perimeter of the end of the seat, you need to cut off its excess. The best tool for this purpose is a boot knife. A boot knife differs from a simple knife in that its blade is sharpened only on one side of the blade.
Cut off the excess part of the edge, you need to lead the knife from the edge of the end of the stool seat to the center, you need to move the knife back without cutting. Then the formed bead of the furniture edge will be cut evenly, and the end of the stool seat will turn out to be neat. It remains only with fine sandpaper to walk along the sharp edge of the cut edge to round off the sharp corner so that it is pleasant to sit on the stool. The new seat for the stool is made by hand and all that remains is to repaint the legs of the old stool in a different color and rearrange them to the new seat.
Before moving the legs from the old stool, it is necessary to check the reliability of the fixation of the legs, depending on the fastening design, to the fastening frame or strips. If, when screwing the stool leg to the stop of the thread, it continues to turn, then you can try to restore the rigidity of fixation by winding a thick thread or flax fiber on the thread, which plumbers use when screwing metal pipes.
If, by sealing the thread with thread or linen, it was not possible to rigidly fix the leg in the mount, it means that the thread is completely damaged, and the stool mount needs to be repaired.
The stool fixing can be repaired in two ways, using a M10 metric threaded stud and a nut, or using an M10 bolt instead of a threaded stud. The end result of the repair will be the same and which method to use depends on the presence of nuts or bolts.
Depending on the hardness of the materials from which the stud and the fastening strip are made, the thread can be damaged either on the stud or in the strip and this is easy to determine visually. If the thread is damaged in the bar, but in good condition on the hairpin, then it is enough to unscrew the hairpin from the stool leg by 10 mm, insert it into the fastening strip and screw a nut onto the hairpin.
You need to unscrew the hairpin with pliers, laying a piece of leather between their jaws and the thread of the stud so as not to damage the thread. If it is not possible to unscrew the pin from the leg with pliers, then you need to make edges under the open-end wrench on opposite sides at a distance of several millimeters from the end of the pin on opposite sides, or unscrew it by holding it in the pin in a vice.
If the thread on the stud is completely damaged, then you can unscrew it from the leg and screw it back into the leg with the damaged end. Thus, the thread in the attachment point will be new again and if the thread in the fastening strip is still good, then it will be possible to do without fastening with a nut.
If, during the repair of the stool with the help of the old hairpin, it was not possible to secure the legs securely, then you can fasten the leg to the stool seat with a bolt.
The thread in the leg of the stool is metric M10. Therefore, it is enough to tighten a bolt with a length of about 80 mm instead of a stud. Due to the presence of a hex head, the bolt can be easily tightened with an open-end wrench with the required torque.
After repairing the fasteners of the stool legs, you can start installing them on the new seat made. Usually, when removing the fastening elements of the stool legs from the old seat, the slots of the screws deteriorate, often the screws themselves are covered with rust. It is better to replace them with new modern self-tapping screws 12 mm long. Before screwing them in, it is advisable to drill the screwing points of the self-tapping screws to the depth of its length with the diameter of the drill equal to half the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Then, when screwing around the self-tapping screw, a bump will not form, and the fastening strips of the legs will fit snugly against the plane of the seat.
The gap between the leg attachment strip and the stool seat is usually small and you will need to make a sample in the seat for the bolt or nut heads. The sample can be drilled with an electric drill with a perk drill. But be careful not to drill through the seat. If there is no drill, then this work can be done using a chisel.
If you need to paint the legs of the stool, as in my case, then it is best to do this work without unscrewing the legs from the mountings. In this case, there is no need to hold the legs during painting and hang them for drying. To protect the seat of the stool from paint, you can cover it with a newspaper, after cutting out holes for the legs in it. If the newspaper is torn in places, then these areas can be closed by gluing it with masking tape or a piece of newspaper with glue.
The legs are best painted with a roller with waterproof paint. Then the surface of the legs is smooth and without smudges. If there is no roller, then you can use a brush. When the paint is completely dry, the stool is ready for use.
After the do-it-yourself restoration, the stool changed beyond recognition, and became an adornment of the kitchen.
When purchasing furniture, you can notice a clear discrepancy between the prices of materials for their manufacture and the final price of the product. This is especially noticeable when buying fairly simple pieces of furniture, such as stools.
Stools are most often made from chipboard.
Stools are most often made from chipboard. It is a fairly cheap material, easy to work with, durable and great for indoor use. Having glanced once at a chipboard stool, it is easy to understand that making it with your own hands is quite easy. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the detailed instructions for making various configurations of stools at home.
Having glanced once at a chipboard stool, it is easy to understand that making it with your own hands is quite easy.
You can make a stool with your own hands, having at hand professional and non-professional elements and devices.
You can make a stool with your own hands, having at hand professional and non-professional elements and devices.
The seat of the resulting chair can be made soft using foam rubber and upholstery.
Mandatory tools include:
You can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery materials to decorate the stool seat.
You may also need a drill with a drill and a stapler for construction purposes.
Upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.
To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts, and only then fix them with self-tapping screws.
Materials for making:
chipboard sheets, new, substandard or leftover spare parts from old furniture;
self-tapping screws, no longer than the thickness of the chipboard;
confirms 4 pieces. 6.4 mm by 50 mm;
metal corners 4 pieces;
adhesive tape for processing sheet edges;
thrust bearings made of any acceptable material;
sandpaper for grinding.
Making a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models.
Non-professional tools that can be found in any home:
pencil or marker;
cardboard for making templates;
ruler or tape measure;
knife of any configuration, the main thing is sharp.
The seemingly simple design of the stool has several dozen different models.
Parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws.
You can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery materials to decorate the stool seat. Upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.
Illustrative examples can be found in furniture stores, neighbors, or on the Internet.
Making a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models. The seemingly simple design of the stool has several dozen different models. Illustrative examples can be found in furniture stores, neighbors, or on the Internet.
Usually, several stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical objects according to the selected drawing.
Before proceeding with the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-process all cut edges with a special tape.
Usually, several stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical objects according to the selected drawing. When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of the stool requires a clear balance between the bottom and the top of it. The discrepancy between the dimensions of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable and therefore traumatic.
When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of the stool requires a clear balance between the bottom and the top of it.
Stools can be made from different materials. Particleboard, plywood, wooden blocks and boards are suitable. The cheapest and easiest material to work with is chipboard. Sheets can be purchased in a store, at furniture factories, or you can buy scraps from small firms that make custom-made furniture. Sheets of old chipboard, which were previously parts of other furniture, are also suitable.
The main thing is to determine in advance the number of pieces of finished products, and calculate the required volumes of materials.
The discrepancy between the dimensions of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable and therefore traumatic.
The final step in preparation before assembly is to drill the required holes.
We apply graphic markup
Stools can be made from different materials.
Having decided on the model of the future stool, it is necessary to mark the chipboard sheet, thereby preparing it for further work. If you plan to make several identical stools, then it is better to make a template for all parts of the furniture. It is convenient to make a template from thick cardboard.
For further ease of use of the manufactured furniture, the corners of the parts should be rounded. It is better to make even roundings with a compass. The absence of this object can be compensated for, for example, with a plate of a suitable diameter.
The cheapest and easiest material to work with is chipboard.
The high speed will ensure chipping and chipping-free sheet cutting.
Depending on the selected shape and model, the dimensions of the elements can be as follows.
No. Stool model Seat dimensions Legs dimensions Crossbar dimensions
1 30x30 30x40 20x12
2 30x40 30x40 30x15
(3 pieces)
3 40x40 20x35 (8 pieces) 30x20
(4 pieces)
Sheets of old chipboard, which were previously parts of other furniture, are also suitable.
Cut out elements for the future stool
The main thing is to determine in advance the number of pieces of finished products, and calculate the required volumes of materials.
Cutting elements from the available pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw.
Cutting elements from the available pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw. To make a good cut of the edge, you can use a fine saw and a high speed jigsaw. The high speed will ensure chipping and chipping-free sheet cutting.
After trimming, sand all edges of the stool with sandpaper. Such processing will ensure good adhesion of one part to another and simplify assembly.
The final step in preparation before assembly is to drill the required holes. Make sure the holes are drilled at the same level.
Having decided on the model of the future stool, it is necessary to mark the chipboard sheet, thereby preparing it for further work.
Before proceeding with the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-process all cut edges with a special tape. The tape must be chosen to match the color of the sheet or vice versa in contrasting shades.
The tape is applied to the cut of the legs and seat and glued with a hot iron. The iron must be applied with quick and short strokes. Press down the warm tape with a clean cloth. The glue on the back of the tape sets very quickly and does not require prolonged heating or cooling.
Parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws. To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts, and only then fix them with self-tapping screws.
The seat of the resulting chair can be made soft using foam rubber and upholstery.
For further ease of use of the manufactured furniture, the corners of the parts should be rounded.
It is better to make even roundings with a compass.
VIDEO
Well, who among us would refuse to have completely wooden furniture at home? It is elegant, reliable, but expensive, and it is because of this that we are forced to purchase furniture made of chipboard, which is more susceptible to damage. But even these defects can be eliminated, even if repairing chipboard furniture with your own hands seems to be a difficult process. Now we will prove to you that you can cope with such work on your own.
Let's describe the accidental damage to furniture made of chipboard, which may well be successfully eliminated with minimal effort:
The most commonly used soft and hard wax, special retouching, as well as tint felt-tip pens or markers, PVA glue, furniture stroke, laminating edge:
Soft wax differs from hard wax in that in its original form it is immediately ready for use, that is, it does not need to be melted. But at the same time, it can be used exclusively on surfaces that have not been subject to mechanical stress.
It is much more convenient to use soft wax, but hard wax is safer.
The stroke is used to putty small damages, such as scratches, small chips, abrasions. It must be applied to the surface, wait until it dries slightly, and then sanded with a felt cloth.
The laminating edges must be glued to the already worn end surface, having previously removed and sanded the old edge.
The edge is placed on the end and passed over it with a pre-heated iron, due to which it is glued.
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Chips, as a rule, appear in the corners and are small depressions of a light color.Therefore, it is necessary to repair chips on chipboard furniture with your own hands.
In order to repair such defects, you will need:
retouching felt-tip pen or ordinary, suitable color;
hard wax;
lighter or wax melter;
spatula or chisel;
fixing spray varnish;
felt fabric.
The liquidation process consists of several successive stages.
Work the chip with a chisel so that the edges are straight.
Melt hard wax of a suitable color with a wax melter or a lighter and apply it directly to the chip with a certain margin.
When the wax is dry, use a chisel to work through each plane, carefully cutting off any excess wax. Form a clear right angle of the chipboard surface, sand lightly with a felt cloth.
It is enough to apply lines along the chip with a thin retouching felt-tip pen, in accordance with the general texture, wiping with a paper towel each time in order to smear the clear boundaries of the lines quite a bit and for greater believability.
In order to fix the seal and give the restored surface a characteristic shine, it is necessary to apply a varnish-spray treatment.
Especially often, such damage is found during the repair of children's rooms. In order to eliminate scratches, you will need all the same tools for repairing chipboard furniture that are used for sealing chips. Only now it will be more convenient to use soft wax instead of hard wax.
How to eliminate scratches - work sequence:
Using a spatula, apply the wax crosswise to the scratch while leveling and compacting it.
Use a thin retouching felt-tip pen to paint in the missing texture.
Apply a fixing varnish to fix the embedments and even out the gloss level of the surface.
Important! If wax is not available, you can use special furniture strokes to seal cracks.
Scuffs, like scratches, quite often occur on laminated chipboards due to frequent contact of foreign objects with the surface. For example, you can find them during renovations in the hallway or kitchen.
As a result, the top layer of protection and partially or completely the layer of paint are erased. In order to eliminate the abrasion that has already appeared, you must do a few simple and simple manipulations:
Pull a microfiber cloth over your finger and moisten it with a suitable colored felt tip pen.
Touch up the scuff with a napkin by rubbing along the surface structure.
Apply the fixing varnish in several small coats.
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Cracks on furniture made of chipboard are often formed under the influence of moisture, heat, or improper use in the place where the cabinet doors are attached.
To repair cabinet furniture, you will need:
clamps, they are also adjustable clamps;
PVA glue;
syringe with a needle.
The procedure for repairing chipboard furniture with your own hands in this case will be as follows:
In a syringe without a needle for the easiest and most rapid penetration, take PVA glue and put on the needle.
Use a syringe to fill the entire interior of the crack with glue.
Place a clamp on the stove on both sides of the crack, and then pull it off.
Remove excess glue with a napkin, leave in this position for about a day.
After the drying time of the glue has expired, the part will be ready for use again.
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As you can see, in order to repair chipboard furniture with your own hands, in some situations you don't even need special carpentry tools and skills to work with them. Even a housewife can cope with such a task, if desired. Therefore, do not rush to get rid of practical and comfortable interior items, if they are still subject to restoration, because they are expensive today!
Stools in the interior are the most important functional part of it. And if recently stools have become not such a common attribute in bedrooms and living rooms, then in the kitchen you cannot do without them. And in those houses or apartments where the premises are presented in antique style, there are stools in almost all rooms.
But, as a rule, over time, any stool, even the highest quality and most reliable, can become unusable and require repair. And then you need to immediately get to work and not delay with this matter. The sooner you start to repair it, the easier the work will go. And the less likely it is that someone will fall from a broken stool.
Stool repair in most cases does not require any special skills or abilities. Even if the entire chair needs to be completely renovated, it is completely easy to do it yourself. You just need to be patient and have the necessary materials.
Consider the main options for repairing individual parts of the stool in turn.
First, let's take a look at how to repair broken stool legs. There are several ways here, depending on what kind of mount they have. For the most part, the legs can be attached in two main ways: using a thread with bolts or using glue.
Stool legs repair scheme.
So, if the legs on the stool are held on to the glue and are very loose, then it is advisable to do so. First you need to carefully detach the completely poorly adhered legs from the seat. Then, using a sharp knife, free them from the remnants of the old glue. You need to remove the glue from the grooves into which the legs entered. It is convenient to do this with a chisel.
When there is practically no old glue left, you can clean these places with coarse sandpaper. After all, it is very important that the surface of the attachment points is as flat and smooth as possible. This provides the best grip.
Now you just need to re-glue the legs. Apply a sufficient amount (if there is a lot - don't worry, you can remove the excess) of carpentry or super glue in the leg recesses. A little glue needs to be applied to the legs themselves. Then you quickly need to glue the legs and press firmly. When this is done, you need to leave the stool upside down for about a day (depending on the specific type of glue) for the glue to set.
The next type of attachment is threaded. The biggest problem is the threaded rod fastening. As a rule, it is screwed into the seat, and a leg is screwed onto it in the recess. Most often, a leg falls out of the seat along with the hairpin. In this case, you need to repair it like this.
Legs thread restoration scheme.
Detach the frame, into which the pin was screwed directly, from the seat, and drill the hole a little more. After that, make a new thread in this hole (preferably of the same size), then get a new stud under this thread and screw it in there. Exactly such a thread is made anew on the leg itself. Or else, as an option, the old thread layer is simply updated.
But it also happens that over time, the thread on the leg is still damaged, as a result of which the leg begins to crack and change in size in width. Then you have to do this. Take the most ordinary canned food jar and cut a strip out of its metal, the length of which will be such that it can be wrapped around the leg plus about 2 cm for fixing. The width of the strip is about 1.5 cm. It is advisable to make small cloves from one edge of the strip (which will be the top).
Now such a "clamp" is put on the upper part of the leg, after which it is fixed with a regular bolt and nut. You can also twist the rest of the strip well if you can. But the cloves must be bent - this will ensure the maximum retention of the clamp on the leg.
But it also happens that the thread on the leg or on the hairpin is only slightly damaged, and it's a pity to completely redo it. As a rule, in such cases, the stool wobbles only slightly. In this case, you can untwist the legs and simply tighten the thread.
Stool seat repair scheme.
This is easily done using flax fiber or thread, which is simply wound around the thread in one layer. It is also perfectly acceptable to use fum tape, which is often used in plumbing.
When the legs are functionally ready, you just have to transform them decoratively. To do this, it is best to clean them of old paint or varnish, sand and paint again. Once dry enough, you can use this piece of furniture again.
But in addition to the legs, repairs may also be required for the stool seat. Usually the seat just wears out from time to time, it becomes ugly. And the outgoing side trim just lags behind, thus it can easily injure you. Therefore, it is also important here to know how to cope with this type of repair.
In the event that the seat is very old, you need to cut it out and make a new one. In doing so, it is important to correctly cut the dimensions that you want to see. You also need to round off the corners with an electric jigsaw and sand the seat well with sandpaper.
Further, depending on how you want to see the stool seat, you need to treat it with varnish (paint) or glue it over with thin plywood or special furniture film. Both options are good, so here you yourself must clearly define.
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Next, it remains to make the edge. It is not necessary to mount it at all. If your stool is already beautiful, you can do without it completely. But if you think the chair will look better with an edge, get to work. Immediately stock up on a special furniture edge in the right amount, the seamy part of which is covered with hot melt glue, a sharp boot knife, and an electric iron.
First, the iron is turned on and set to a temperature of at least 150 degrees. At this time, you need to cut off the required amount of edging - about 5-10 cm more than you need for pasting. Further, it is convenient to work together. One person applies an edge and holds it, while another iron it with a heated iron. The hot melt glue heats up and fixes the edge to the seat.
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It is important not to create even minimal gaps. And if they are, you need to iron everything again until they disappear. And in the event that the edge is stuck unevenly, it is quite easy to fix: just iron it again, detach and re-glue. When you're done, trim off the remaining edge with a boot knife.
Stool repair can be considered fully reviewed. From all of the above, it is easy to understand that this is a completely simple matter. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to completely repair the stool if only certain parts are out of order.
Nowadays, many people prefer to throw away the broken things. They say it's cheaper to buy a new chair. And some furniture manufacturers make their products “disposable” according to the principle - “They will use it, throw it away and come back to us for a new chair”. It is possible that someone is comfortable with this, but I think that in most cases it is not. Moreover, in a number of cases there is some very beloved or expensive chair for some reason, or other furniture that you want to leave in the house, as a memory, etc.
Therefore, I will try to give some advice that I think will be useful to you in case your favorite chair began to wobble, or completely collapsed. Of course, it is not worth bringing the matter to the second stage, but there are different situations.
Not so long ago I was asked to “sort out” the chairs that the cafe exhibits on its summer veranda. “Summer is coming and we need to prepare for it,” the director said quite correctly. You can see one of the chairs to work with in the title photo.
The chairs are not bad enough, but as a result of exploitation over the course of several years they have become loose. When examining them, it turned out that the joints in the front of the chair were unstuck and loose, and the back was intact. Due to the fact that in public catering places the furniture is used quite toughly, I immediately proposed to reinforce the chairs simultaneously with the repair in order to prolong their further operation for a long time without repair. My proposal was accepted. And I started repairing.
First you need to disassemble the chair. In this case, it was necessary to detach the semi-soft seat from the chair itself. It's easy to do - you just need to unscrew the screws that attach the seat to the side bars.
At the first stage of any repair, it is necessary to carefully disassemble the loose knot using a mallet, preferably a rubber one.
Then we spread glue on the thorn of the drawer
and, so that our repairs are of better quality, we apply glue both to the upper and lower part of the drawer side in the place where the thorn is made (this technique, after gluing, will significantly strengthen our connection node)
it is necessary to use gauze (bandage) for laying between the glue and the wood so that the glue connection is strong
The joints greased with glue are tightened with a clamp
at the same time, in order not to damage the legs of the chair, it is necessary to lay wooden gaskets between the metal parts of the clamp (see photo). When the clamp is clamped, excess glue will come out at the joints. They must be removed at the beginning with a knife,
and then - with a rag.
This should be done carefully until the glue has hardened. Otherwise, then you will have to peel off the glue from the elements of the chair with a knife, etc., and even with this work, the outer surface of the chair can be damaged.
The next step is strengthening. I made it using metal corners and 16 x 2.5 mm screws. This will be enough for a specific case. In this case, the whole process should be carried out with a clamped clamp. You can, of course, make the reinforcement the next day, when the glue hardens and you can remove the clamp.
Attaching a metal corner to the place of reinforcement, mark with a small nail the place for drilling under the screw. It is also necessary to do this, since it is not possible to simply drive the screw into the drawer with the required accuracy - the chair is made of walnut, this material has sufficient density and the screw will not enter the wood exactly as we would like.
Next, we drill a hole for the screw with a thin (1.8 mm) drill.
Having set the corner in place, we screw the first screw
Now we need to mark with a nail the rest of the holes for the reinforcing corner and tighten the remaining screws. I think that after fixing the corner with the first screw, this operation will not be difficult for you. And a photo, as an explanation of the process, is superfluous here.
Video (click to play).
The last thing to do is to put a chair to harden the glue for a day in a warm room. In a day, your chair is ready for further use. If everything is done correctly, then it will last a long time without repair. Similar techniques are used when repairing any chair.
