DIY stool repair

In detail: do-it-yourself stool repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Very often, after prolonged use, the legs begin to fall out of the stool. We offer you a way to eliminate this problem. For repairs you need: an M 10 nut, pliers, a large screwdriver, a file, a hacksaw for metal, or a chisel with a hammer, as well as two hands. The stool consists of a seat to which a silumin frame is screwed from the bottom with screws. The legs of the stool are screwed into the frame.

The leg is a piece of wood in which a metal pin with an M 10 thread cut into it is wrapped.

A steel pin screwed into the leg is harder than a silumin frame in terms of hardness, so the thread in the frame is “eaten away” and the stool leg starts to scroll and pop out. In principle, you can rewire something under the thread, but as a rule, this is not enough for long. The silumin frame is not welded and, moreover, is fragile; therefore, we offer you the following repair method. First of all, turn off all the legs. We weld off the screws from the seat and remove the silumin frame. We take any leg of the stool in the left hand, in the right pliers, with which we clamp the thread of the metal pin and while holding the pin, we twist the leg counterclockwise. Do not grip the very edge of the thread with the pliers - the nut will not wrap.

It is not necessary to unscrew the pin to the end, but to unscrew it by about 1-2 centimeters. Insert this leg into the hole in the frame with the eaten thread so that on the other side the pin is flush with the frame. Screw the nut onto the pin.

Part of the nut will go beyond the dimensions of the frame and will not allow it to snuggle tightly against the seat, so it must be cut off right in the assembly with a hacksaw and then trimmed with a file. If you don't want to cut, you can instead use a chisel to make a recess under the nut in the seat. Then we completely assemble the stool. The repair work will take no more than half an hour.

A stool is the most common piece of furniture that is often used for a kitchen, corridor, balcony. Unusual shaped stools will not be superfluous in the living room, bedroom and children's room. Like any furniture with heavy use, stools loosen, their seat is covered with cracks and scratches. In this case, stool repair is required, it is easy to carry out at home. This may relate to the repair of a wobbly leg, a skewed or badly worn seat. In some cases, stool repair is no longer advisable, in which case you can assemble a very beautiful and stylish stool with your own hands.

Video (click to play).

Stool is a piece of furniture that is mainly used for the kitchen, corridor and balcony.

To complete the repair, you must take the following materials:

Cutting boards in the amount of 8-10 pieces, the length of which should be from 500 mm. The thickness of the boards is taken from 25 mm, width - from 80 mm. You can use sawn timber waste by choosing only whole boards, without cracks, knots, chips, traces of mold. It is best to purchase softwood.
PVA joiner's glue, it is better that it is the D3 brand, which has moisture-resistant properties. It is worth buying furniture varnish, stain or a piece of artificial leather, fabric for finishing the seat.
Self-tapping screws for wood 70 mm, staples for fastening fabric.
For varnish and stain, you need to take brushes, rollers, a container for mixtures.

To repair a stool, you need to prepare the following tools:

Stool repair tools: gloves, rasp set, hacksaw, ruler.

jigsaw for cutting material;
a set of rasps;
a hacksaw for carpentry work, which has fine teeth. Today there are special tools for wood on sale;
manual milling cutter or a set of sandpaper with different grain sizes (80, 120, 180);
plane;
drill;
a set of chisels;
screw clamps, which are necessary for drying the glue, their length should be 400 mm, it is enough to take 2-3 pieces;
simple pencil, ruler, square.

When the legs of the stool or one of them are broken, it is necessary to make new ones. For this, boards for legs and drawers are selected. There should be no cracks, chips, knots on the surface of the boards. After that, the blanks are cut out according to the template. It only takes 4 legs and 2 drawers to make the connection. This will make the structure stronger and more rigid.

The standard stool height is usually 45 cm, the dimensions of the seat should be within 35 * 35 cm.

Figure 1. Diagram of the connection of the legs to the chair seat.

But there are no strict restrictions, if necessary, the height changes, as well as the dimensions of the seat. The shape of the legs can be different, in this case a curved one is used. After marking, all elements must be processed with a router and sandpaper to make the surface smooth.

Next, you need to start assembling the legs, i.e. bases for the stool. To do this, it is enough to glue 2 structures, each of which includes 2 legs and one tsar. At the bottom, the cut in the tsar should look up, at the top - down. Structures are connected using wood glue and a thorn-groove system. To do this, before assembly, a groove and a spike are cut out on the sides, which will adjoin each other. During this work, it is constantly necessary to check the dimensions so that the spike fits tightly and fully into the groove. Self-tapping screws can also be used for additional fastening, as shown in fig. one.

If you are performing routine repairs on a stool that has broken legs, the procedure may be different. If the cross is intact, then there is no need to replace it. First, the surfaces are coated with glue, after which they are tightly connected. How accurately the fit is made will also determine how stable the stool will be after final assembly.

Stool seat assembly diagram.

To repair the stool, you can use board trims. The workpieces are coated with glue along the edges, after which the structure is tightly compressed with clamps. When making a seat for a chair, it must be remembered that it will have 2 sides: the outer one on top and the bottom one, which will be attached to the legs.

It is better to first assemble the seat without glue, pick up the boards so that in the upper part they are as even and smooth as possible. If all the elements are aligned exactly, then you can start gluing. Before work, you should not only select the boards in size, but also immediately cut them according to the template to give the structure the required appearance. This will allow you to complete the work as quickly and accurately as possible.

Often, to repair a stool with a damaged seat, you can use not only boards, but also a ready-made shield. It can be cut from a large piece of plywood or other suitable materials. After the seat is ready, it is necessary to process its edges, pay special attention to the corners, they should not be sharp. If the seat is dry, it can either be varnished, like the entire stool, or covered with artificial leather, a special fabric for furniture.

The wrapping itself is not difficult, usually this part of the work is the easiest and fastest. It is necessary to choose a piece of leather or cloth, prepare tools. If artificial leather is used, then its edges do not even need to be processed. It is best to start work when the stool is already assembled. If the seat is being repaired normally, the legs do not need to be removed, the seat surface is leveled. If there are swellings, then they must be removed. After that, the fabric is spread on the floor with the wrong side up, and a stool is placed on top with the seat down.

The contour is drawn with a pencil, while taking into account that at the edges you need to leave material for the hem.The size depends on how thick the seat has, how long you can fold it. After the fabric is cut out, the chair is covered, it is tightly fastened with staples from the inside out so that no bubbles and folds remain on the surface.

After the glue is dry, the final assembly can begin. It is necessary to remove the clamps, the remaining glue should also be carefully removed from the surface. The seat is trimmed to fit the desired shape and size if necessary. All surfaces should be sanded to make the stool look smooth and attractive. The corners can be rounded off using a hand router. This tool removes material with a small radius, only up to 2-3 mm.

Assembling a stool at home.

Next, the halves obtained are connected, the method with dowels and glue is used. For this, holes are drilled in the base, the diameter and depth of which must correspond to the size of the dowels. The standard dimensions are 8 * 30mm, but it's better to double-check. The holes and grooves are coated with wood glue or PVA, after which the dowels are hammered, the halves are squeezed together with clamps.

The seat is attached to the base in the same way. After the assembly is completed, it is necessary to process the surface using an emery paper or a grinding machine using abrasives such as P90 / 120/180. The surface of these chairs will be smooth and attractive. The last stage is surface decoration. The easiest option is to cover it with a stain of the selected color and varnish, but you can also use a seat upholstery with artificial leather or fabric. Such a coating is fastened with staples.

Stool repair is not so difficult, usually it consists in the need to strengthen the leg or just cover the seat. In some cases, it is best to make your own chair. This work is not very difficult, the materials and tools for this are taken the simplest, they can be easily bought at any hardware store or found at home.

How to make a professional restoration of chairs with your own hands using available tools? It's not difficult at all!

The appearance of furniture can become unpresentable over time. In addition, it sometimes breaks down and requires repair. Restoring a chair that can last for years is not difficult at all. Sometimes you just need to refresh the surface - change the upholstery or make the seat more durable. For restoration, many materials are in the house - a piece of dense fabric, foam rubber, etc. The updated chair, covered with a beautiful varnish, looks no less neat than when purchased.

The appearance of furniture can become unpresentable over time.

A chair that is refurbished at home can be decorated better than it looked before. The restoration requires a minimum of materials and tools. Changing a leaky or worn upholstery is a matter of one hour.

If the chair is antique, then you need to restore it very carefully.

You can independently clean the wooden surface of old furniture and cover it with a transparent or tinted composition, add new elements to the decor. For example, a chair is made with carved legs or a back, reinforcing the seat so that it can be used for its intended purpose for a long time.

For restoration, many materials are in the house - a piece of dense fabric, foam rubber, etc.

The cost of home restoration is minimal. Before buying a new chair, think about whether you can restore the old one and save a lot at the same time. Restoration of antique furniture is especially expensive as it requires great care and exclusive materials. Updating furniture on your own will be much cheaper.

The updated chair, covered with a beautiful varnish, looks no less neat than when purchased.

If the "native" bolts connecting the supporting structure are loosened, then they are strengthened with an additional washer.For greater security, you can add some all-purpose glue to the grooves.

Replace old seagrass and horsehair fillers with foam rubber.

The leaky seat is renewed by replacing the base with sipes and / or completely restoring the upholstery. The worn-out surface is freed from old material. The chair is being prepared for further restoration:

cut a piece of plywood to fit the seat;
foam rubber is glued onto the base (width - 3-4 cm);
fix the plywood around the perimeter;
pull the upholstery fabric onto the finished base;
fix the material with a stapler and staples.

A chair that is refurbished at home can be decorated better than it looked before.

You can completely replace the back with a curly one, if the design allows.

You do not have to run the fabric on the outside of the seat. Then the upholstery is tucked inward around the perimeter. The seat frame will then be visible.

The fabric is selected to be resistant to abrasion and mechanical stress, sufficiently dense.

The restored chair can be additionally decorated - to make the wooden surface lighter or darker, or to arrange the back or legs in a different way.

Changing a leaky or worn upholstery is a matter of one hour.

You can use a wide variety of materials when upgrading. With good carpentry skills, the restored chair takes on a personal touch. This takes into account the material - wood species, density, texture.

You can independently clean the wooden surface of old furniture and cover it with a transparent or tinted composition, add new elements to the decor.

The chairs included in the kit must be decorated in the same style.

If the chair is antique, then you need to restore it very carefully. Be sure to give time to dry the applied composition.

For an antique chair, choose a decorative material with embroidery.

For your information... Antique chairs often come with springs in the seat area, so you will need to find the same or similar ones, and remove old, rusted and lost elasticity. Replace old seagrass and horsehair fillers with foam rubber.

The cost of home restoration is minimal.

Round off the edges using a jigsaw and sand the edges with sandpaper.

To restore the chairs, you will need the following:

quick-drying varnish (transparent or tinted);
dye;
upholstery fabric;
foam rubber;
plywood;
sandpaper;
metal washers and bolts (screws);
springs (for a specific type of chair).

Sandpaper is required in order to clean the surface of the furniture from irregularities, chips and cracks in the varnish.

The fabric is selected to be resistant to abrasion and mechanical stress, sufficiently dense. Tapestry, flock, matting, etc. will do. For an antique chair, choose a decorative material with embroidery.

Updating furniture on your own will be much cheaper.

Select a wooden base according to density and texture in advance, cut it to size and use a template to draw up the desired pattern.

Sandpaper is required in order to clean the surface of the furniture from irregularities, chips and cracks in the varnish. The chair (wood structure) must be completely sanded for smooth application of the laminate.

For major repairs, the chair can be disassembled, the broken parts can be replaced with new ones and fastened with bolts or screws.

To upgrade a chair, you need tools:

scissors;
roulette;
a hacksaw for wood (cut off the excess plywood under the seat);
screwdriver;
screwdriver.

For greater security, you can add some all-purpose glue to the grooves.

For major repairs, the chair can be disassembled, the broken parts can be replaced with new ones and fastened with bolts or screws. Seat frames also often require restoration.

Seat frames also often require restoration.

A Viennese chair or whatever looks best in this design.

Important! It is necessary to use wood species that are close in density and texture to make the chair functional and presentable.

The leaky seat is renewed by replacing the base with sipes and / or completely restoring the upholstery.

There are several options for decorating the appearance of furniture. The chair can be refurbished in the following ways:

It is necessary to use wood species that are close in density and texture to make the chair functional and presentable.

As a decor, you can use both the upholstery itself, picking up fabric of interesting colors like a tapestry, and the rest of the furniture, making them carved, curly.

You do not have to run the fabric on the outside of the seat.

The plain seat is decorated with smooth embroidery or appliqué. This must be done before starting the sheathing.

The plain seat is decorated with smooth embroidery or appliqué.

The wooden surface of the support structure and the back are laminated, that is, they are coated with a resistant varnish in several layers. The tone of the coating is selected closer to the natural shade of the wood (light, dark or moderate). A Viennese chair or whatever looks best in this design.

The restored chair can be additionally decorated - to make the wooden surface lighter or darker, to arrange the back or legs in a different way.

You can completely replace the back with a curly one, if the design allows. Select a wooden base according to density and texture in advance, cut it to size and use a template to draw up the desired pattern. Round off the edges using a jigsaw and sand the edges with sandpaper.

The wooden surface of the support structure and the back are laminated, that is, they are coated with a resistant varnish in several layers.

The chairs included in the kit must be decorated in the same style so that they do not stand out from the general picture - "different-sized" furniture may look good in different rooms, but at a common table, for example, when celebrating a family celebration, it looks casual.

You can use a wide variety of materials when upgrading.

VIDEO: Chair restoration: How to make a chair with your own hands. Master class from Katerina Sanina: design, interior

Stools with three or four legs, which are fixed to a hard or soft seat by means of threaded metal axles through a metal frame or curved metal plates, are widespread. Usually, the legs for greater stability of the stool are installed at an angle, which leads to uneven load on the thread, the legs are unscrewed, the thread deteriorates, and they begin to stagger and fall out. To prevent damage to the threads, it is necessary to tighten them in a timely manner in the event of a weakness in the fastening of the legs.When the beautiful fronts for kitchen furniture appeared, I replaced all the doors and front walls of the drawers with modern MDF. The color changed and the stools of Soviet production with rectangular seats of the color of blue sky and dark legs began to stand out strongly, introducing disharmony into the design of the kitchen. I decided not to buy new stools, but to remake the old ones, since the old facade of the kitchen left the doors in good condition from laminated chipboard of a suitable color. Image - DIY stool repair

According to the shape of the seat, the stools could be made round or rectangular, with right angles or rounded. The choice fell on the seats with a square shape with rounded corners. Sitting on stools with seats of this shape is more convenient, they are easier to manufacture, the corners do not spoil the walls and doors of kitchen cabinets when they touch, and it is easier to paste over the ends of the seats with furniture edge.

After marking the chipboard sheets, they must be carefully cut without damaging the surface of the slab along the saw line. It is best to cut with a saw with hardened fine teeth. The question of which saw is better to cut, and the technology of sawing chipboard sheets, is discussed in detail on the page How to make a cornice for window curtains.

If you want to make a round stool seat, then after marking, you first need to cut a round blank from a chipboard sheet with an electric jigsaw, and then give a perfectly round shape to the ends of the seat using the technology described in the article How to make a table with a round table top.

For pasting the ends, a decorative furniture edge is best suited, the back side of which is covered with hot melt glue. The edge is glued quickly, does not require special skills in work, after the glue has cooled, it adheres tightly and is not afraid of moisture.

To glue the edge from the tool, you will need an electric iron, scissors and a boot knife. First, you need to cut off a piece of furniture edge from the roll along a length slightly larger than the perimeter of the butt end of the stool seat. Further, the seat is fixed in a vice or in any other way, since you have to hold the iron in one hand, and hold the edge with the other. The handle of the electric iron temperature regulator is turned clockwise until three points coincide with the mark on the iron body, that is, the heating temperature is set to about 150˚C and the iron is connected to the network.

While the electric iron is heating up, you need to attach the furniture edge to the end of the stool in such a way that its edges protrude equally from both sides beyond the corners of the edge along the entire applied length. This is necessary so that the end of the edge does not leave the plane of the butt end at the end of the gluing. The edge is rigid and practically does not bend to the sides.

When the iron has warmed up, it must be applied to the furniture edge and slowly moving, with slight pressure, draw over the area of the surface of the furniture edge. Glue does not get on the soleplate of the iron and you can do without a pad.

Next, the iron is removed and the quality of adhesion and the accuracy of the edge orientation relative to the center of the ends of the stool seat are checked. The edges of the flange should fit snugly against the ends without air gaps. If there are gaps, then you need to iron these places with a hot iron again. If the edge is crooked, then you need to iron it again until the glue warms up and correct its position. It is convenient to work with hot melt glue, since when it is reheated it becomes liquid again, which makes it easy to correct mistakes made during gluing.

Having ironed the furniture edge along the entire length of the end of the seat, the edge is trimmed at the junction to size and glued completely.

After gluing the furniture edge around the perimeter of the end of the seat, you need to cut off its excess. The best tool for this purpose is a boot knife. A boot knife differs from a simple knife in that its blade is sharpened only on one side of the blade.

Cut off the excess part of the edge, you need to lead the knife from the edge of the end of the stool seat to the center, you need to move the knife back without cutting. Then the formed bead of the furniture edge will be cut evenly, and the end of the stool seat will turn out to be neat. It remains only with fine sandpaper to walk along the sharp edge of the cut edge to round off the sharp corner so that it is pleasant to sit on the stool. The new seat for the stool is made by hand and all that remains is to repaint the legs of the old stool in a different color and rearrange them to the new seat.

Before moving the legs from the old stool, it is necessary to check the reliability of the fixation of the legs, depending on the fastening design, to the fastening frame or strips. If, when screwing the stool leg to the stop of the thread, it continues to turn, then you can try to restore the rigidity of fixation by winding a thick thread or flax fiber on the thread, which plumbers use when screwing metal pipes.

If, by sealing the thread with thread or linen, it was not possible to rigidly fix the leg in the mount, it means that the thread is completely damaged, and the stool mount needs to be repaired.

The stool fixing can be repaired in two ways, using a M10 metric threaded stud and a nut, or using an M10 bolt instead of a threaded stud.The end result of the repair will be the same and which method to use depends on the presence of nuts or bolts.

Depending on the hardness of the materials from which the stud and the fastening strip are made, the thread can be damaged either on the stud or in the strip and this is easy to determine visually. If the thread is damaged in the bar, but in good condition on the hairpin, then it is enough to unscrew the hairpin from the stool leg by 10 mm, insert it into the fastening strip and screw a nut onto the hairpin.

You need to unscrew the hairpin with pliers, laying a piece of leather between their jaws and the thread of the stud so as not to damage the thread. If it is not possible to unscrew the pin from the leg with pliers, then you need to make edges under the open-end wrench on opposite sides at a distance of several millimeters from the end of the pin on opposite sides, or unscrew it by holding it in the pin in a vice.

If the thread on the stud is completely damaged, then you can unscrew it from the leg and screw it back into the leg with the damaged end. Thus, the thread in the attachment point will be new again and if the thread in the fastening strip is still good, then it will be possible to do without fastening with a nut.

If during the repair of the stool using the old hairpin it was not possible to secure the legs securely, then you can fasten the leg to the stool seat using a bolt.

The thread in the leg of the stool is metric M10. Therefore, it is enough to tighten a bolt with a length of about 80 mm instead of a stud. Due to the presence of a hex head, the bolt can be easily tightened with an open-end wrench with the required torque.

After repairing the fasteners of the stool legs, you can start installing them on the new seat made. Usually, when removing the fastening elements of the stool legs from the old seat, the slots of the screws deteriorate, often the screws themselves are covered with rust. It is better to replace them with new modern self-tapping screws 12 mm long. Before screwing them in, it is advisable to drill the screwing points of the self-tapping screws to the depth of its length with the diameter of the drill equal to half the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Then, when screwing around the self-tapping screw, a bump will not form, and the fastening strips of the legs will fit snugly against the plane of the seat.

The gap between the leg attachment strip and the stool seat is usually small and you will need to make a sample in the seat for the bolt or nut heads. The sample can be drilled with an electric drill with a perk drill. But be careful not to drill through the seat. If there is no drill, then this work can be done using a chisel.

If you need to paint the legs of the stool, as in my case, then it is best to do this work without unscrewing the legs from the mountings. In this case, there is no need to hold the legs during painting and hang them for drying. To protect the seat of the stool from paint, you can cover it with a newspaper, after cutting out holes for the legs in it. If the newspaper is torn in places, then these areas can be closed by gluing it with masking tape or a piece of newspaper with glue.

The legs are best painted with a roller with waterproof paint. Then the surface of the legs is smooth and without smudges. If there is no roller, then you can use a brush. When the paint is completely dry, the stool is ready for use.

After the do-it-yourself restoration, the stool changed beyond recognition, and became an adornment of the kitchen.

Stools in the interior are the most important functional part of it. And if recently stools have become not such a common attribute in bedrooms and living rooms, then in the kitchen you cannot do without them. And in those houses or apartments where the premises are presented in antique style, there are stools in almost all rooms.

But, as a rule, over time, any stool, even the highest quality and most reliable, can become unusable and require repair. And then you need to immediately get down to work and not delay with this matter. The sooner you start to repair it, the easier the work will be.And the less likely it is that someone will fall from a broken stool.

Stool repair in most cases does not require any special skills or abilities. Even if the entire chair needs to be completely renovated, it is completely easy to do it yourself. You just need to be patient and have the necessary materials.

Consider the main options for repairing individual parts of the stool in turn.

First, let's take a look at how to repair broken stool legs. There are several ways here, depending on what kind of mount they have. For the most part, the legs can be attached in two main ways: using a thread with bolts or using glue.

Stool legs repair scheme.

So, if the legs on the stool are held on to the glue and are very loose, then it is advisable to do so. First you need to carefully detach the completely poorly adhered legs from the seat. Then, using a sharp knife, free them from the remnants of the old glue. You need to remove the glue from the grooves into which the legs entered. It is convenient to do this with a chisel.

When there is practically no old glue left, you can clean these places with coarse sandpaper. After all, it is very important that the surface of the attachment points is as flat and smooth as possible. This provides the best grip.

Now you just need to re-glue the legs. Apply a sufficient amount (if there is a lot - don't worry, you can remove the excess) of carpentry or super glue in the recesses for the legs. A little glue needs to be applied to the legs themselves. Then you quickly need to glue the legs and press firmly. When this is done, you need to leave the stool upside down for about a day (depending on the specific type of glue) for the glue to set.

The next type of attachment is threaded. The biggest problem is the threaded rod fastening. As a rule, it is screwed into the seat, and a leg is screwed onto it in the recess. Most often, a leg falls out of the seat along with the hairpin. In this case, you need to repair it like this.

Legs thread restoration scheme.

Detach the frame, into which the pin was screwed directly, from the seat, and drill the hole a little more. After that, make a new thread in this hole (preferably of the same size), then get a new stud under this thread and screw it in there. Exactly such a thread is made anew on the leg itself. Or else, as an option, the old thread layer is simply updated.

But it also happens that over time, the thread on the leg is still damaged, as a result of which the leg begins to crack and change in size in width. Then you have to do this. Take the most ordinary canned food jar and cut a strip out of its metal, the length of which will be such that it can be wrapped around the leg plus about 2 cm for fixing. The width of the strip is about 1.5 cm. It is advisable to make small cloves from one edge of the strip (which will be the top).

Now such a "clamp" is put on the upper part of the leg, after which it is fixed with a regular bolt and nut. You can also twist the rest of the strip well if you can. But the cloves must be bent - this will ensure the maximum retention of the clamp on the leg.

But it also happens that the thread on the leg or on the hairpin is only slightly damaged, and it's a pity to completely redo it. As a rule, in such cases, the stool wobbles only slightly. In this case, you can untwist the legs and simply tighten the thread.

Stool seat repair scheme.

This is easily done using flax fiber or thread, which is simply wound around the thread in one layer. It is also perfectly acceptable to use fum tape, which is often used in plumbing.

When the legs are functionally ready, you just have to transform them decoratively. To do this, it is best to clean them of old paint or varnish, sand and paint again.Once dry enough, you can use this piece of furniture again.

But in addition to the legs, repairs may also be required for the stool seat. Usually the seat just wears out from time to time, it becomes ugly. And the outgoing side trim just lags behind, thus it can easily injure you. Therefore, it is also important here to know how to cope with this type of repair.

In the event that the seat is very old, you need to cut it out and make a new one. In doing so, it is important to correctly cut the dimensions that you want to see. You also need to round off the corners with an electric jigsaw and sand the seat well with sandpaper.

Further, depending on how you want to see the stool seat, you need to treat it with varnish (paint) or glue it over with thin plywood or special furniture film. Both options are good, so here you yourself must clearly define.

Next, it remains to make the edge. It is not necessary to mount it at all. If your stool is already beautiful, you can do without it completely. But if you think the chair will look better with an edge, get to work. Immediately stock up on a special furniture edge in the required amount, the seamy part of which is covered with hot melt glue, a sharp boot knife, and an electric iron.First, the iron is turned on and set to a temperature of at least 150 degrees. At this time, you need to cut off the required amount of edging - about 5-10 cm more than you need for pasting. Further, it is convenient to work together. One person applies an edge and holds it, while another iron it with a heated iron. The hot melt glue heats up and fixes the edge to the seat.