DIY oven timer repair

In detail: do-it-yourself oven timer repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The axis of each gear of the device has pivot points - anchor, both in the back and in the front of the case. After removing the cover, a picture should appear in front of us, approximately the same as shown in Figure 2. When I had to disassemble this thing for the first time and see so many gears of different calibers, the first thought that came to my mind was: “Well, what a fuck I’m here did you climb? " At first, there was a feeling of panic and confusion, "how does this all work?" and "how can all this be assembled afterwards, while maintaining its working capacity?" But, as the proverb says: "The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing."

And so, let's figure out what all these cogwheels are for. In order to make it easier to understand, let's remember that the timer - the regulator combines two devices, a timer and a power regulator, and the common unit for both devices is an electric motor. It is the electric motor that drives both of these mechanisms. Therefore, we will select the gear shaft of the engine as the reference point 0, and from here we will begin the study. Let's number all the gears in order, from the motor shaft and on. First, the rotation from the engine is transferred to gear 1, then in sequence to gears 2, 3 and 4. Most gears have two tiers with different diameters. The rotation motion is transmitted from a smaller diameter to a larger one. Gears 1 and 3 sit on the same axis. The above gears together form a gearbox that transfers rotation from the electric motor shaft to the control elements of the timer and power regulator, and also reduces the number of engine revolutions to the required value. The last - the fourth gear of the reducer, is a transfer gear. From this gear, rotation is transmitted in two directions: to gear 5 and then to the timer, and in the other direction to gear 11 and then to the power regulator.

Video (click to play).

Now, let's consider the operation of each device separately. Let's start with the timer.

The timer mechanism consists of the following parts:

Transfer gear 5. Transmits rotation from transfer gear 4 to the timer mechanism.
Gear 6 - friction clutch. Transmits rotation from gear 5 to timer gear 7. It works in one direction, thereby preventing the reducer from turning in the opposite direction when setting the time - turning the timer knob clockwise.
Timer shaft and timer gear 7. Serves for setting and counting the time of the timer.
Program disk 8. Controls the lever 9 of the contact group of the timer.
Lever 9. Under the control of the program disk, it reciprocates, and thus controls the contacts of the timer 10.
Contact group of timer 10. One pair of normally open contacts. It supplies power to the electric motor and to the power regulator terminal block 16.

The main elements of the timer are, without a doubt, the friction clutch and the program disc. The clutch allows, when setting the time, to rotate the control knob separately from the rest of the mechanism, even while the oven is operating, and then synchronously return it to its original position. The program disk, due to its design, provides the timer device with two stable positions: "On" and "Off" (Figure 3). Well, everything seems to be about the timer. We will talk about the work of that part of the timer - the regulator, which is responsible for regulating the power in the next article.

Modern ovens break down quite rarely, but problems in their work are not excluded.The difficulty is that the structure and all its elements do not provide for outside interference. Repairing ovens at home is usually done by replacing components and is carried out in most cases by an experienced craftsman. However, in some cases, breakdowns can be repaired by yourself.

If you decide to try to repair the oven with your own hands, then it is worth knowing the situations when this should not be done. There is definitely no need to open the case if:

the electric oven is under warranty;
the oven information panel shows that the problem is a complex component breakage;
you know nothing about electrical engineering.

During the warranty period, all repairs are made is free... Except in the following cases:

There are traces of attempts to open the structure - worn out or damaged heads of bolts, self-tapping screws, removed seals.
Insects or rodents have entered the oven, causing a short circuit or mechanical damage to components and wires.
The connection was made incorrectly, without following the manufacturer's recommendations.
Damage to electronic components occurred due to a change in voltage parameters, as a result of which it went beyond the critical limits specified by the manufacturer.

In all cases where the warranty is removed, repairs will have to be paid in full... The same situation occurs when the warranty period expires.

Before grabbing a multimeter, putting on gloves, and pulling out a set of screwdrivers, it makes sense to check the power supply to the oven. It is worth looking for answers to the following questions:

Is food served?
Is the power cable OK?
Is there good contact between socket and plug?
Are there traces of carbon deposits, melting on the plug and socket?
Is the fuse for the plug or oven broken?
Is the power wire in perfect condition, is there any fractures, scuffs or melting on it?

Checking the fuse in the plug

If the above problems do not exist, and the oven still does not start, it is worth checking the device for standard faults.

Consider typical malfunctions, methods for diagnosing them and the necessary repair of electric ovens at home. As mentioned above, most of the troubleshooting work involves replacing assemblies and parts.

If the electronic control unit of the oven suddenly fails, then be prepared to pay a tidy sum for repairs. In most cases, you do not need to do anything to identify this problem. Modern oven models are equipped with self-test system: The electronics will send a signal by itself by displaying an error code.

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Do-it-yourself repair of the control module is possible only if you have experience and knowledge in electronic technology.

Parts are replaceable and can be ordered from the manufacturer's catalog. For users who prefer to get a baked chicken out of the oven, rather than electronic boards, it is better to call a qualified technician.

If this is not possible, or the qualifications of the service personnel do not inspire confidence, you can order a control unit wholly... This can be done on the manufacturer's official website or in a specialized online store. It is usually not difficult to install a board in place of a burned-out one.

Most modern models equipped with mechanical regulators do not provide for disassembly and cleaning. Primary repair consists in removing contamination from the outside, removing contact leads and cleaning the terminal plates on the regulator or timer. If this does not help or does not help fully, the part should be replaced.

Some older models allow cleaning of mechanical regulators, after which the latter work perfectly, without any complaints. It is necessary to carry out maintenance using non-aggressive solvents, for example, white spirit or a weak solution of ammonia. It is necessary to clean off oxides from contact groups with a very fine sandpaper; to eliminate traces of corrosion, special primers are used.

Oven mode switch

This is a part that is often changed, including when the gas ovens are being repaired. No interference in the design of the device is provided. The entire element is replaced.

Air blower and grill fans no longer create a good air flow over time. If the engine is running, the impeller should be cleaned. Dust constantly accumulates on it, while grease and oil are on the blowing fans.After a certain period of operation, it is imperative to disassemble the oven and lubricate the engine, if this is provided for by its design.In the event of a blower failure, rewinding or other repairs are simply unprofitable - the entire unit is replaced. Do the same with the grill motor. It is placed in a non-separable housing together with a gearbox.The heating elements of the oven are constantly working in critical mode. Determining whether the heating element is working is quite simple. To do this, turn on the oven to the appropriate heating mode and check the temperature by touching your hand in a kitchen mitten. The method works, however, for a more accurate result, it is better apply a pyrometer... The device will clearly show the uniformity of heating over the area, indicate the maximum temperature in a given mode. This will make it possible to diagnose the "burnt" heating element not only completely, but also partially.Heaters are replaced after disassembling the case; it is not difficult to buy the corresponding part. The specific marking can be found after removing the heating element or according to the reference data of your electric oven model.The last three elements that change without hesitation or hesitation are the backlight, thermal fuses, and a touchscreen film panel. All these parts cannot be cleaned or repaired.The oven electronics will inform about the operation of the thermal fuse in emergency mode, and problems in the operation of the film touch panel are diagnosed by the lack of reaction, the need to exert excess pressure, and accidental operations. The backlight lamp can be replaced independently, but to install new thermal fuses or a film sensor, it is better to contact the master.

What is there to diagnose and how the master will do it is generally not clear

Like: "Show me what you have? Yeah. clear! does not work! need to change the block! from you. rubles for diagnostics! "
However, what one person has done - the other will always be able to break (fix)!
And I fixed it! I'll figure out how to insert pictures here - I'll post a report.

So, to open the oven, you need a Phillips screwdriver (asterisk) T20 in size. You can, of course, with anything, but the proprietary one is more convenient. We take out the oven, unscrew the screws, sketch, or better photograph the connection of the wires to the watch. This is how it looks from the inside.

Next, remove the front panel - just pull out the handles and buttons.
Using a knife and a sharp awl, carefully remove the spring clips and now the patient is already in our hands.

These are the details of the block if it fails to be repaired and you have to look for a new one.

We remove the board by gently pressing out the latches (6 pcs.) For example.

An external examination showed that all the details seemed to be normal. The first one was suspected of being an electrolyte, the only one. It turned out to be normal. Another capacitor with a nominal value of 0.68 μF showed 0.22 μF, i.e. 3 times less! Here it is.

Diagnostics + timer replacement would be worth it. not cheap, but excluding the timer - an eternal oven)))

alex50 wrote:
diagnostics + timer replacement would be worth it. not cheap, but excluding the timer - an eternal oven)))

It is eternal even now!
Continuation.
I looked at the board, traced the tracks, sketched the power circuit and understood "size matters!"... The developers used the simplest power supply scheme - no transformers and pulse converters, capacitive ballast - our everything!
A snippet of the power scheme is here:

And exactly - the measurements showed that the supply voltage is only 4.5 V at the minimum load and drops to 4.2 V exactly at 20.08, while the program flies in the controller and it turns on the relay, which actually "beeps".
Further, a matter of technology - I find a capacitor of the desired value and the client has risen!

Amendment to the first part - it is better not to remove the control knobs - you don’t want to put them in place correctly.
Back cover screws

and on the front panel of different diameters - do not confuse.
When applying power to the device, be careful - part of the board is under MAINS VOLTAGE!
Exceeding the nominal capacity of the replaced capacitor is fraught with burnout of the processor, and it will not be possible to replace it with a new one. But it is better to choose a larger operating voltage - 400 volts.
In general, if the head is cooking and the hands grow from the right place, it is quite possible to fix it.
Everyone else is better “Call the wizard for diagnostics”.

Py.sy.
I apologize for the size of the photos, but the full-size ones do not fit here.

DIY oven repair

Mode switch.
Temperature regulator.
Upper ten.
Round ten.
Lower ten.
Internal glass.
Ventilation holes (cooling).
Upper grill.
Door handle.
Inner body.
Electronic control module.
Ventilation holes (cooling).
Run-time timer scoreboard.
Cooling fan.
Convection fan (side view).

DIY oven repair. The latest models of ovens are equipped with an electronic control module.

The task of the control module is to control the operating modes of the functional units of the oven, according to the cooking program set by the user.

The cooking mode is selected.
The required cooking temperature is set.
The total cooking time interval is selected.
The oven door closes and the process starts.

The electronic control module executes the instructions according to the selected program. The processor compares the readings of the sensors, and, according to the readings of the sensors, controls the operation of the peripheral devices of the oven (electric oven).

At the end of the program, when the program is completed, the control module will sound or beep to inform you that the cooking process is complete. How to independently repair household appliances with your own hands.

The choice of modes or cooking programs, on some models of ovens, is set using the touch control panel, on others using program selectors.

But the essence does not change from this. An image of the electronic control module for the oven can be seen in Fig. 4.

Modules may differ in appearance, dimensions, depending on the manufacturer of the oven. For example, the electronic control module (control board) may look like the image below:

example of the image of the control module.

The upper ten in fig 4, consists of two tens: inner and outer.

The inner ten is switched on if you have selected the "Grill" cooking mode.

In Figure 1, the top ten is labeled 3.

The lower shade of rice 5 is usually located under the lower casing of the inner case of the oven (electric oven). In Figure 1, the lower ten is designated at number 5. Genuine parts for the electric oven.

Round ten fig 6, located under the shroud of the rear of the inner case in the center. In Figure 1, the round ten is numbered 4.

The round ten is switched on in cooking modes in which convection is provided, and usually in tandem with a convection fan, rice 2 position 15.

In order to successfully repair an electric oven or oven on your own, it is easy to find and fix all possible breakdowns. Purchase full main course: Oven repair.

Book: how to properly connect an electric boiler.
Book: electric stoves, hobs, electric ovens - typical malfunctions.
Video lessons: How to repair an oven.

Built-in electric oven Hansa BOEI64030077
We have been using this oven for about 5 years. True, for a long time during cooking there was a smell of burnt plastic or something else, as when turning on a new technique. In general, everything was fine, but just the other day it stopped turning on at all, only the clock is on. After reading the information on the Internet, I decided to inspect the operating mode switch myself, since it is not difficult to get to the control unit. And what did I see? On the first contact (two red wires) there was a malfunction of the contact group as a result of overheating, which is visible by a change in the color of the plastic, i.e., blackening. After removing the switch, disassembling the burnt group, I was very surprised to see that the power contacts were not soldered, but assembled by means of a clamp, therefore, I think they did not contact very well and heated up more and more over time. Then they weakened so much that the movable part of the contact group simply jumped off and the oven stopped turning on. I cleaned the contacts, soldered the assembly part ("dad"), inserted it into the socket and mechanically secured it with a bracket, drilling two 1mm holes. In the future, I want to fix the contact with epoxy glue, since it is not afraid of temperature. I assembled the switch, put it in place and it worked.

I am an electrician by profession. In my free time I am engaged in the repair of household appliances with friends, relatives, and friends. Now household appliances have become more modern, new technologies have been introduced. I have carefully studied these training materials, copied, printed. They help me a lot in my work! I also ordered some useful books on home appliance repair.

When an oven appeared in our house, I thought it was nothing special. Confused only by the touch panel, I am not particularly versed in electronics. But as always, what you are afraid of happens. The touchpad has stopped responding to pressure. Only after looking at this material, I decided to disassemble the oven. Step by step I got to the control module and cleaned it. Then I checked it without glass and with glass, everything worked.Without these materials, I hardly decided on such an adventure.

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After you have dealt with the outlet, open the terminal block of the plate. There are several types of terminal blocks, but they all follow the same principle. As a rule, it provides for the possibility of changing the connection to one, two or three phases. For this purpose, the jumpers that come with the kit are used. What is worth paying attention to here. First, do a visual inspection for melted contacts. If there is one, then this contact is either not tightened, or there is an unreliable contact on the inside. De-energize the stove before tightening the screw. If you are trying to tighten the melted contact screw and it is tightened, then you will have to disassemble the plate. If it tightens, that is, it has been loosened, then there is a possibility that the plate will work, but I would recommend replacing the melted terminal block.

In the terminal block, a different burner is connected to each phase contact.Thus, if one or two burners do not work for you (especially if you installed a new stove yourself), then there is a high probability that you forgot about the jumpers or forgot to tighten them. It may be that you tightened the jumpers loosely. And weak contact causes heating. If you are interested, you can find out what the current does to the wires. If the stove does not work completely, then there is hardly a problem in the terminal block, most likely a problem in the power supply.

Now you need to turn on the power to the plate and check the voltage at the terminal block. You need to check by touching the screws themselves, not the wires. Moreover, check each screw. So you will understand if there is voltage at the terminal itself if the wire is not clamped correctly. That is, zero and first screw, zero and second screw, etc. If everything is in order and there is tension, then you will have to disassemble the stove.

After disassembling the plate, look at the connections on the back of the terminal block.

Conclusion on checking the voltage: if the stove does not work completely, then you need to check the jumpers, there is no point in checking the voltage in the outlet. If the stove does not work completely, then you need to check the voltage in both the outlet and the terminal block (if there is voltage in the outlet), since there is a possibility that there is no contact in the plug or some problems in the wire. If any one burner does not work, then go ahead.

If you have not yet read the article that was mentioned just above and which tells what current does to the wires, then read it. The main unpleasant property of weak contact is that when it heats up, the contact can disappear and then reappear. Therefore, if something works for you, then it does not, then you need to look for a weak contact. Unfortunately, this will have to be done under voltage, consistently going through the circuit, so be careful and attentive.

To begin with, there are three types of switches. They are all mechanical, but differ in the way they work.

step power control
smooth power control
smooth power control with the ability to turn on an additional area

Accordingly, each switch uses its own cooking zones. The step switch uses a hotplate with several heating elements. You can find everything about such a burner here. The temperature on the hotplates with these switches is adjustable in steps and has fixed positions.

For the switch with continuously adjustable power, burners with one spiral are used. Therefore, such a burner, if it burns out, then once and for all. Unlike burners with several spirals (they were discussed in the previous paragraph), which continue to work partially, but do not give out maximum power. You can regulate the temperature on such burners smoothly within a very wide range, almost like on gas stoves.

For a continuously adjustable switch and an additional area, burners with one spiral are also used, but the burners have two areas. Consequently, a malfunction can manifest itself in two ways: one area does not work, or both areas do not work. If only one area has stopped working, then it is more likely that the reason is either in the switch or in the hotplate, if both areas stopped working at once, then most likely the power to the hotplate or the problem is in the switch.

What's on this point? Since you will be working with dangerous voltages, you need to be very careful. Turn on the switch and check the voltage on the hotplate. If there is voltage, and the burner does not work, this can indicate two malfunctions - the burner burned out or the burner thermal fuse (if any) is faulty. If there is no voltage, but it comes to the terminal block of the plate, then the problem is purely in the switch.

Basically, there is only one step switch malfunction.Poor contact leads to heating of the contact plates and either burns out the contact or deforms the switch guides. In this case, only a close inspection of the switch will help determine the malfunction. If you see darkened terminals, then the switch will have to be changed, since it cannot be repaired at home. You can only postpone his death for several days / months.

I wouldn't repair the continuously variable switches either. There are a little more malfunctions, but they all boil down to the fact that there is a breakdown of the bimetallic element. The principle of operation of these switches is that a current flows through the bimetallic plate, causing the plate to heat up, which in turn leads to reversible deformation of the plate. As soon as the deformation reaches a critical point, the switch changes the position of the contacts, closing or opening the contact plates of the power supply of the burner. If you repair such a switch, then setting up the correct activation and deactivation of it is quite problematic. In this case, the hotplate will either not reach full power or will not turn off completely.

Before changing the modulating switch with additional area, it makes sense to disassemble it first. There are two types of malfunction: the additional area does not turn on and does not turn off. In the first case, you need to look at what prevents you from turning it on, in the second case there is such a moment as welding the contacts. In this case, the contacts are opened, cleaned with a sandpaper or file until the contact pads are even, and this may solve the problem for a long time, or it may not. It all depends on the quality of the material of working contacts.

The task of the timer in the stove is to ensure that you have the possibility of automatic cooking. That is, you can set the on and off times, select the cooking mode, place the dish and the stove will turn on and off by the appointed time. Most often, the timer controls only the oven, but there are models in which one of the burners is also connected via a timer. The oven will not work until the timer has been set. It is not necessary to set the exact time, it is much more important to simply set it. The correct time does not affect the workflow in any way, it is rather intended for your convenience, so that you can correctly navigate the time by which you need to prepare your dish (for example, in the morning or reheat food for dinner).

Actually, if the timer is faulty, either only the oven or another hotplate will not work for you, if it is connected via a timer.

In part, I considered the repair of EKCH burners, where all malfunctions of burners with several spirals are written. The troubleshooting methods are suitable for all cooking zones. Here I will dwell in a little more detail on modern burners.

Therefore, it is possible to designate malfunctions:

If power comes to the burner (to the yellow and blue contacts), but the burner does not work, then two reasons can be distinguished: the contacts of the temperature sensor do not close or the spirals are burned out. If there is no thermal sensor, then the most likely cause is the combustion of the spirals. But everything must be looked at in place.

As I said, for the most part, this applies to the oven in the stovetop or oven. It can look differently, but you can "recognize" it by the following signs: it has only two (rarely three) contacts, it is attached to the oven, thick wires fit to it. Thermal fuses in ovens are rarely self-healing. That is, if it burns out, then it needs to be changed. A thermal fuse of any shape is suitable for replacement, but must correspond to the current and temperature that it controls. You can check its malfunction with a multimeter in the dial mode. Its resistance should be within zero.That is, it must simply conduct an electric current. The thermal fuse is installed in the common wire of the oven, which goes directly from the terminal block. Thus, if the thermal fuse is triggered, the oven will not work and, as a rule, only it will not work, and in all modes.

Let's summarize and briefly go through troubleshooting.

We determine the presence of voltage starting from the outlet, if the stove does not work completely and then in series: terminal block, switch, thermal fuse (if any), burner.
Having found a faulty area, we try to repair it. If it cannot be repaired, we will change it.
When replacing a burner, remember that EKCH burners can be used in circuits where regulators with smooth switching are installed, but not vice versa.
We do not forget that we are working with dangerous voltage, therefore, we observe safety precautions.

In the article, I tried to consider as much as possible all possible malfunctions of mechanically controlled electric stoves. Some of the faults are suitable for electronically controlled cookers. In principle, mechanically controlled plates are easily repaired at home, but it is better to entrust electronic plates to specialized workshops.

Repair of hobs with touch controls is discussed in this article. Although this is a separate article, it is a kind of supplement. If you have a purely mechanical control, then you can read the article on touch control panels only for self-development.

Video (click to play).

If you've read it, well done! Well, I say goodbye to you.

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