In detail: do-it-yourself tarpan repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Motor-cultivator Tarpan can be attributed to the middle class, single-operation, having one speed. It is equipped with a B&S 6 hp engine. Adjustable cutter grip 35/70/100 cm. Worm gearbox and automatic centrifugal clutch are also installed. The weight of the walk-behind tractor is 45 kg. It does not provide reverse gear and power take-off.
Two wheels are installed for rolling the walk-behind tractor. And in order to regulate the depth of the cutter, a coulter is installed. The walk-behind tractor itself can be easily disassembled into two parts. The casters and handles are removable. This makes it easy to fit into the trunk of a car.
The main feature of Tarpan is a rather powerful engine, in comparison with other cultivators of this class. Unfortunately, the designers did not provide for a reverse gear, which is a big disadvantage. The worm gear of the gearbox was installed in a fairly robust housing.
Unfortunately, it does not have a reverse stroke due to the large gear ratio. When processing heavily planted areas, it is quite often necessary to pull out the cultivator in reverse. This usually occurs in places where a reversal is not possible.
In this case, the cutter does not turn back, it skips and unfolds what has just been loosened. It is for this reason that gearboxes with toothed wheels or with chain drives are installed in modern cultivators. If a worm gear is installed, then only with reverse gear.
Therefore, Tarpan is very convenient for the owners of open gardens, and for those who will prepare the soil for further processing and sowing. In this case, there is no great need for the convenience of controlling the walk-behind tractor in reverse gear.
Video (click to play). |
The following design features of the cultivator are an automatic centrifugal clutch and a split "leg". This allows it to be disassembled into two parts and folded into the trunk of the car, which is a definite plus. On the other hand, due to this feature, the clutch "often flies out" when working with a hiller, plow, digger. If you use an automatic clutch, it has a large response inertia, which is unsafe.
To turn on the speed, to start the cutter, you need to turn the throttle lever. This will increase the RPM, after which the cutter begins to rotate. If it is necessary to stop the cutter urgently, the operator must remove the gas. This will not immediately turn off the cutter, and it will continue to run for a while. In this case, you need to use the "Stop" button.
Also, in the structure of the motor-cultivator, a new design of the steering bar is used, which allows it to be turned 360 degrees and to adjust the angle of inclination. This allows the operator to walk close to the cultivator and not on cut furrows or loosened soil.
If you install additional equipment on the Tarpan motor-cultivator, then it will be able to weed, huddle, harrow, loosen, mill, etc.
Vladimir, a resident of Belgorod, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator at his summer cottage:
I have been using Tarpan for 9 years. The positive overall experience is primarily due to the engine. Advantages of a motor-cultivator: it always starts from a half-turn; since there is a four-stroke engine, there is no need to oil the oil, just poured gasoline and change it a few times a year; easily fits into the trunk of any car, because it can be disassembled into two halves. Disadvantages of Tarpan: the gas is made very inconveniently - under the thumb of the right hand. He gets tired quickly.
Feedback from Sergey, a resident of Omsk, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator on his site:
With its light weight (48 kg) and "monstrous" excess power, it is difficult to take the virgin soil. If you first use a tractor plow that will break the roots, the lumps will be dealt with quickly and easily. Due to the peculiarity of the design, the reverse is not installed. But with its light weight, it can be deployed manually without any problems. I saw how a cart was dragged with a converted Tarpan. The plow does not pull because it is lightweight. And at the same time, it perfectly cuts the beds with a hiller on cutters. Excellent material from which the cutters were made.
Review of Andrey Ivanovich, a resident of Rostov, uses the Tarpan motor-cultivator in a greenhouse:
I sharpened them once after buying them, and never touched them again. Basically I use a hiller and cutters - I will cut the beds, plow and that's it. Needed is negligible gasoline: a 1.5-liter tank is enough for an hour of operation. The first time I took off the cutter cover, because it only got in the way, because a lot of grass is wound around the cutters. I also hung a 20 kg weight in front, thanks to which the virgin soil was taken much better. But she dangled in front and rocked the cultivator.
In general, if used for summer cottage work with a minimum of settings and hemorrhoids, this is quite a convenient thing. Also, do not forget that, first of all, the task of the cultivator is to loosen the soil, which he does just fine. Therefore, only cutters are included with it.
Feedback from Roman Viktorovich, a resident of Kharkov, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator at the dacha:
I have been working with Tarpan since 2004. Very satisfied. If, when working on heavy ground, he begins to jump and tries to run away, then first you need to remove and sharpen the knives. It is advisable to attach a load. Made a load of lead (melted old batteries). The result is a weight of 13 kg, has a compact volume and allows you to work perfectly. Also can be made in the form of several plates to adjust the weight. I use the load for digging trenches, virgin lands and primary plowing. Then I shoot and it works great.
Alexey, a resident of Kharkov, uses Tarpan on his personal plot:
Recently acquired by Tarpan. Yesterday I went through the garden with cutters. Feeling: the engine runs vibration-free and quiet; the cultivator is a little light, sometimes it jumps; perfectly cultivated the second time when turned the horns, no trace left. Processed seven acres. It took two hours and three liters of gasoline.
Vladimir Ivanovich, a resident of Belgorod, uses a motor-cultivator in the country:
The load on the back and arms is acceptable. In addition to milling cutters, I did not test attachments. The cutters have to be cleaned because they wind up the roots a lot. But I think that this is a plus, since weeds are removed from the garden. If the cutters are sharp, it will chop up the roots, after which weeds will multiply.
For its manufacture of the plow for the Tarpan motor-cultivator, high-strength special steel was used to withstand heavy loads. Its purpose is to plow the soil with a set of lugs, thanks to which the required tractive effort is created.
The use of a plow is possible for the initial tillage. To loosen large clods of soil, cultivation is necessary.
Like any technique, a walk-behind tractor requires timely maintenance and repair. And it is advisable to entrust their implementation to specialists who have the necessary tools and equipment and know their job well. However, if you are also familiar with the device of internal combustion engines and understand the topic of mechanical engineering, then you can do a lot of what may be required to restore the machine's performance on your own.
Diesel and gasoline engines have different motor resources. For the former, the normal figure is 4000 m3 / h, but the latter are capable of providing only 1500 m3 / h. Despite this, diesel models of walk-behind tractors are not in high demand. After all, both when buying and during operation, they are much more expensive.Therefore, most likely you are working with a walk-behind tractor equipped with a gasoline (carburetor) engine.
All breakdowns that may arise during the operation of agricultural mini-equipment can be conditionally divided into two categories:
- Engine malfunctions:
- startup problems;
- malfunctions.
- Malfunctions of other units and mechanisms:
- improper clutch operation;
- breakdowns in the gearbox;
- problems with the chassis;
- malfunctions of control and automation;
- malfunctions of walk-behind tractor systems (cooling, lubrication, etc.).
In many ways, the success of repairing a suddenly out of order machine depends on the correctness of the diagnostics. With regard to maintenance, it is carried out precisely in order to identify small malfunctions, which subsequently lead to serious ones.
If you do not have the necessary knowledge, premises, tools and materials necessary for servicing and repairing the motor, entrust the work to a specialist!
If attempts to start the walk-behind tractor were unsuccessful, this means that there are malfunctions in the engine or starting system. In order to determine the source of the breakdown, you first need to check the spark plugs.
If the spark plugs are dry, this means that the fuel mixture is not entering the engine cylinders. There may be several reasons for this:
- there is no fuel in the tank;
- the fuel supply valve is closed;
- the hole in the gas tank plug is clogged;
- foreign objects have entered the fuel supply system.
To fix problems with the fuel supply, you must:
- Fill the tank of the walk-behind tractor.
- Open the fuel cock.
- Clean the drain hole located in the fuel filler cap.
- Remove the fuel cock, drain the fuel tank and rinse it with clean gasoline. After that, remove the connecting hose on the side of the carburetor and blow it out together with the carburetor nozzles without disassembling the latter using the fuel pump.
If fuel enters the carburetor but does not reach the cylinder, the problem is with the carburetor itself. To eliminate it, this unit must be removed, disassembled and cleaned. Well, after that - assemble and install in place. Therefore, before performing all the necessary manipulations, it does not hurt at all to refresh the memory of the device and the principle of operation of the carburetor.
In the event that, when checking the candles, they turned out to be wet, i.e. fuel is supplied normally, but the engine does not start, the problem may be as follows:
- Failure of the ignition system:
- there is a characteristic carbon deposit on the spark plug electrodes (it is necessary to clean the candles with emery, after which they should be rinsed with gasoline and dried);
- the size of the gap between the electrodes does not correspond to that specified by the manufacturer in the engine operating manual (the gap is adjusted by bending the side electrode to the required dimensions);
- insulators for spark plugs or high-voltage wiring are damaged (defective plugs and wiring must be replaced);
- the STOP button is shorted to ground (for normal engine start, the short circuit must be removed);
- contacts in the angles of the candles are broken (contacts should be put in order);
- the gap between the magnetic shoe and the starter does not correspond to the standard value (gap adjustment is required);
- defects are found on the stator of the ignition system (the stator must be replaced).
- Air leaks through the seals of the carburetor, spark plugs, spark plug heads and cylinders, as well as the carburetor and engine cylinder connections.
If a leak is detected in the connections, it is necessary to tighten the fastening bolts, tighten the spark plugs and check the integrity of the gaskets between the plug heads and the cylinders.
- Incomplete closure of the carburetor choke.
To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to ensure free movement of the damper by checking the quality of the drive. If jams are found, they must be eliminated.
Compression and carburetor malfunctions
It so happens that the launch is carried out, but its process is significantly complicated. At the same time, the engine of the walk-behind tractor is extremely unstable and cannot develop power sufficient for normal operation.
The reason for this may be loss of compression, which can be identified by:
- soot on the working surfaces of the valves, as well as the seats of the cylinder blocks;
- deformation of the intake valve;
- wear of the piston rings.
In order to restore compression, you must:
- Check the technical condition of the engine timing mechanism, clean the parts contaminated with carbon deposits, and if there are any defects, replace them.
- Check the condition of the piston rings and replace defective components.
If, during engine operation, black smoke comes out of the muffler, and an excess of oil is detected on the spark plug electrodes, or they themselves are covered with carbon deposits, this means that:
- an oversaturated fuel mixture is fed to the carburetor;
- the sealing of the carburetor fuel valve is broken;
- the oil scraper ring of the piston is worn out;
- the air filter is clogged.
To fix this problem, you should:
- adjust the carburetor;
- replace the leaky valve;
- replace worn piston rings;
- clean or replace a defective air filter.
In the event that, when the engine is running, light smoke comes out of the muffler, and the spark plug electrodes are dry and covered with a white coating, this means that a lean fuel mixture enters the carburetor. This problem is eliminated by adjusting the operation of the carburetor.
Units and components of motors that are installed on agricultural mini-machinery are exposed to significant loads. They can also fail during the operation of the unit, which will very quickly lead to serious failures.
If suspicious noises, jerks and irregularities in the operation of the walk-behind tractor systems are detected, it is very important to immediately turn off the engine, and then let it cool down - only after that it will be possible to fix the problem.
If, during operation, the motor starts to gain momentum on its own, i.e. is "running out", most likely this means that the fastening of the regulator and traction levers is loose. In this case, the user will have to readjust the motor control drive.
Sometimes, when the throttle is fully open, the engine does not accelerate when the throttle is pressed, but on the contrary begins to lose power until it stops completely. This is a clear sign of overheating, so the walk-behind tractor must be turned off and wait until its components have completely cooled down. After that, you should check the oil level in the crankcase, and also check the cleanliness of the ribbed surfaces of the blocks and cylinder heads.
Under increased engine loads, it can jam. There may be several reasons for this:
- not enough oil in the crankcase;
- a nadir formed on the lower head of the connecting rod;
- the connecting rod or oil spray is completely out of order.
If the motor of the walk-behind tractor is jammed, it will have to be disassembled and the condition of the main units and components should be checked: faulty, deformed, melted, etc. subject to replacement.
What to do if the motor block motor works intermittently and does not develop the required power? There may be several reasons for this behavior:
Air does not enter the carburetor, which means that the fuel does not burn well - the filter will have to be cleaned or changed.
Fuel residues and combustion products form a thick deposit on the inner walls of the muffler, which must be removed.
In this case, the assembly will have to be removed, disassembled and properly cleaned all of its components. After that, the carburetor must be assembled and properly adjusted.
- Wear of the cylinder-piston group.
Temperature and high loads do their job, and even the most durable metal wears out and deforms over time. Such parts should be replaced immediately, otherwise you can pay for this with irreparable damage in the engine itself.
- Damaged ratchet housing or ratchet
The presence of this problem is indicated by the lack of movement of the crankshaft when the engine is started. To replace the clutch housing and ratchet, you will have to completely disassemble the starting block.
- Loosen the screws securing the starter housing to the engine housing.
If the starter cord does not return to its original position, the starter motor must be adjusted. To do this, the screws are loosened and the position of the knot is set by hand so as to ensure the normal return of the cord.
A fairly common reason for the lack of a return stroke of the starter cord is the failure of the starter spring - it will have to be replaced.
The service life of any equipment is significantly increased by competent maintenance of its main units and components. The promptness of replacing worn-out spare parts is also of great importance. Therefore, in the event of the slightest malfunctions and malfunctions, they should be eliminated immediately - as a result, this will prevent much more serious and expensive problems.
About idle on a new engine - he described his solution to the problem. On Lifan, the normal idle speed is higher - the knives rotate.
- Modernized Tarpan with a handle from the old Tarpan and a straight hitch. Pay attention to the gap between the brake and the handle, without removing the head - the brake cannot be removed or turned over, a very limited range of adjustments.
- Rolled weeders (the 2nd is on additional wheels), I puzzle how to straighten it.
- Rolled weeders (the 2nd is on additional wheels), I am puzzled how to straighten it.
You probably have them made of plasticine. On my even there are no signs of this. Although, on my blades with a stiffener, the thickness of the metal is similar to yours.
CSpirit wrote:
Pay attention to the gap between the brake and the handle, without removing the head - do not remove the brake or turn it over,
What other design do you have? I calmly take mine down, and no problem. Outwardly similar, the same.
If they were made of plasticine, I would unbend them with my hands.
If you read the posts above - here is the result of crossing parts of the early Tarpan (with the engine from Ant) with the purchased Lifan engine and the gearbox from the new Tarpan. A photo for a deeply respected colleague Poe, shows what happens as a result of replacing the oblique trailed one on the early Tarpan with B&S with a straight one, without replacing the control sticks (unless of course they have them (this is a 1994 release).
On a modern Tarpan, the handle bracket design is different - there are no problems with pulling it out.
Here, parts of the early Tarpan are used - at the other end of the brake there is a flat hiller, when working on cutters - it is at the top, during transportation - at the bottom, like a platform, so that the trunk does not break through.
In 1994, Tarpan was regularly equipped with tools for a full cycle of planting potatoes according to Dutch technology (in high beds), hence the Brake with a flat hiller (if turned over), a long-eared hiller, a set of cutters, weeders, limiters, there was not only a digger.
There are discussions on the forumhouse about tarpan, if anyone is interested, type this "Cultivator Tarpan (Tula) - a full report for the year of ownership with a photo"
I didn't have enough patience to read everyone. Therefore, I apologize if the question is repeated. First: I plan to rivet a swivel plate on the trigger. When turned 90 degrees, it will press against the handle. Has the right to life?
Second: W30 oil is recommended for the engine, which I always forget to buy. Is it possible to use 10W40 oil (including on the trimmer), which is always in the car? And is it possible to have half-shin instead of mineral water?
RIE,
Think for yourself, CAE w30 is summer, and if you operated MK in winter. I have 10w30 flooded from the beginning of operation mineral. According to the instructions, the oil is changed to a warm engine. Just do not tip the engine towards the filter, oil may get into it. I usually remove the filter, one at a time, and clean it.
[QUOTE = RIE; 5232052] Everyone did not have enough patience to read. Therefore, I apologize if the question is repeated. First: I plan to rivet a swivel plate on the trigger.When turned 90 degrees, it will press against the handle. Has the right to life?
Take a closer look at the gas control knob of the MB-1 walk-behind tractor, it is not very expensive, but much more convenient than the standard invention of Tula craftsmen. I set it myself - I didn’t regret it, it proved to be a very convenient device.
Good afternoon, tarpanovody.
There is absolutely no time to dig the site and the topic, so sorry if a similar issue has already been covered here.
And the problem I have is the following - there was noise from the clutch and gearbox. He took off the power unit - the clutch is normal.
I disassembled the gearbox housing - the gearbox itself is alive and without signs of wear, I check the oil, change it every season.
But the clutch drum is backlash. The bottom bearing of the worm has no backlash, the top has a slight backlash, but the drum dangles seriously and noisy specifically if it is turned by hand. Apparently, there is also a third bearing under the drum.
I could not pull out the worm and remove the clutch drum - with this I appeal to you, tell me, who had such experience - how to disassemble this unit?
Everything is simply disassembled there. First, the drum is removed, then the lower part of the gearbox housing is unscrewed and everything is pulled out. There are no additional fasteners there.
There are two 205 bearings on the worm and two on the wheel and that's it.
If you saved the operating manual, then everything is drawn in detail there.
Thank you, I understand you.
Found the same manual for Tarpan. There, in the drawing, the drum is bolted to the worm with a bolt or nut, and in my place everything is welding. And in this form and bought it new in the store. Chinese or what?
Apparently, the drum itself needs to be twisted and I don't understand how to do it without a special key or a puller?
2Z wrote:
Thank you, I understand you.
Found the same manual for Tarpan. There, in the drawing, the drum is bolted to the worm with a bolt or nut, and in my place everything is welding. And in this form and bought it new in the store. Chinese or what?
Apparently, the drum itself needs to be twisted and I don't understand how to do it without a special key or a puller?
I don’t remember exactly, I took it apart for a long time, it seems there is a nut.
How can you twist it now? Unless you carefully drill down the weld seam with a drill.
An interesting photo of such a miracle. Maybe we can offer something else.
Victor K. Couldn't upload drum photo here. Only on YouTube. Here is the link ”>
So I understand that you need to twist the drum itself like a nut. And for this you have to fix the worm, i.e. collect everything back, otherwise everything will turn. And then with a hammer on a drum through a drift.
It seemed that not only the bearing itself is inside, but also its seat in the gearbox housing. There is a new bearing. But how to seal its landing in the gearbox housing so that it does not dangle along the outer cage?
2Z wrote:
So I understand that you need to twist the drum itself like a nut.
The video is hard to see (a speck), but nothing is welded there and the shaft is visible. Most likely a tight fit, and rusted.
Look carefully to see if the keyway is visible. If the shaft is not screwed on and there is a groove, then it will not work. Drop a little WD-40 or brake fluid and let it stand for a day. Try to remove.
It will not work, then a more radical way, heating the compound (without fanaticism). It is enough to warm up with a burner to 150-200 degrees (change in the color of the metal) and immediately try to remove it.
If there is no puller, then try to knock out with blows on the shaft through a copper (other soft metal) adapter. Again, without fanaticism.
A threaded boom is welded onto the clutch drum. There is a thread on the shank of the worm shaft. Everything there is spinning normally, if without fanaticism. The bottom of the boot is removed, the bearing is removed from the shaft, the worm wheel is removed. The bottom of the worm shaft is clamped through aluminum spacers in a vice and the clutch drum is twisted. The thread lock is not used at the factory. You can knock gently with a brass punch. I use a homemade return clamp.The clutch drum is very delicate, try not to deform it. In spare parts drums are not polished inside, try to keep your own.
A drum with a keyway fit, was used only on Tarpans with a scooter engine. There is a nut with a figured washer inside the clutch drum.
CSpirit wrote:
A drum with a keyway fit, was used only on Tarpans with a scooter engine.
Yes? And I have a Honda GCV-160 engine, and it fully complies with the drawing in IE.
The classical design diagram of an agricultural unit consists of certain elements. These include the following nodes:
Understanding what the spare parts for cultivators are responsible for will make it possible to quickly identify the breakdown and fix it on your own.
Since the motor is most susceptible to loads, it is with it that most of the breakdowns of the cultivator are associated. The main symptom of a breakdown is a sharp loss of engine power. In this case, you need to check:
- Is the motor warmed up, especially if the cultivator is used in winter;
- The presence of dirt in the air filter;
- The quality of the fuel used;
- Serviceability of the ignition system;
- The presence of residues of combustion products inside the muffler;
- The presence of contamination in the carburetor;
- Integrity of the piston elements.
If the motor fails to start at all, experts advise checking its position. The fact is that if the motor is tilted in relation to the central axis, then it will need to be set to its original position and check the quality of attachment to the frame.
In addition, it is required to check the amount of fuel in the tank and blockages in the tank cap.
All cleaning procedures performed are aimed at restoring the uniformity of the carburetor float immersion. To do this, it is also necessary to eliminate the deformation of the bracket, by means of which the float is attached to the piston system.
The dive setting is done with both open and closed needle valves. Use a screwdriver to align the bracket. All manipulations must be clear and accurate.
Along with the elimination of deformation, it will also be necessary to adjust the valves of the cultivator.
To do this, check the tightness of each of them. Performing this procedure allows you to restore the functions of the carburetor and return the amount of fuel consumed by it to normal.
The cultivator motor plays the most important role in the design of the machine. Often it will not start due to a malfunctioning fuel pump.
The pump serves to supply the fuel mixture to the carburetor at a certain point in the cycle. If no fuel is supplied, then the engine will not start.The pump is defective in the following cases:
- If the fuel supply to the engine injectors is interrupted;
- In case of fuel leakage as a result of mechanical wear;
- The appearance of strange noises during operation.
To fix the damage, the pump should be disassembled and inspected. It is possible that the engine will not start on the cultivator due to dirt inside the pump. In this case, the device will need to be cleaned and reinstalled.
Motor-cultivator Tarpan can be attributed to the middle class, single-operation, having one speed. It is equipped with a B&S 6 hp engine. Adjustable cutter grip 35/70/100 cm. Worm gearbox and automatic centrifugal clutch are also installed. The weight of the walk-behind tractor is 45 kg. It does not provide reverse gear and power take-off.
Two wheels are installed for rolling the walk-behind tractor. And in order to regulate the depth of the cutter, a coulter is installed. The walk-behind tractor itself can be easily disassembled into two parts. The casters and handles are removable. This makes it easy to fit into the trunk of a car.
The main feature of Tarpan is a rather powerful engine, in comparison with other cultivators of this class. Unfortunately, the designers did not provide for a reverse gear, which is a big disadvantage. The worm gear of the gearbox was installed in a fairly robust housing.
Unfortunately, it does not have a reverse stroke due to the large gear ratio. When processing heavily planted areas, it is quite often necessary to pull out the cultivator in reverse. This usually occurs in places where a reversal is not possible.
In this case, the cutter does not turn back, it skips and unfolds what has just been loosened. It is for this reason that gearboxes with toothed wheels or with chain drives are installed in modern cultivators. If a worm gear is installed, then only with reverse gear.
Therefore, Tarpan is very convenient for the owners of open gardens, and for those who will prepare the soil for further processing and sowing. In this case, there is no great need for the convenience of controlling the walk-behind tractor in reverse gear.
The following design features of the cultivator are an automatic centrifugal clutch and a split "leg". This allows it to be disassembled into two parts and folded into the trunk of the car, which is a definite plus. On the other hand, due to this feature, the clutch "often flies out" when working with a hiller, plow, digger. If you use an automatic clutch, it has a large response inertia, which is unsafe.
To turn on the speed, to start the cutter, you need to turn the throttle lever. This will increase the RPM, after which the cutter begins to rotate. If it is necessary to stop the cutter urgently, the operator must remove the gas. This will not immediately turn off the cutter, and it will continue to run for a while. In this case, you need to use the "Stop" button.
Also, in the structure of the motor-cultivator, a new design of the steering bar is used, which allows it to be turned 360 degrees and to adjust the angle of inclination. This allows the operator to walk close to the cultivator and not on cut furrows or loosened soil.
If you install additional equipment on the Tarpan motor-cultivator, then it will be able to weed, huddle, harrow, loosen, mill, etc.
Vladimir, a resident of Belgorod, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator at his summer cottage:
I have been using Tarpan for 9 years. The positive overall experience is primarily due to the engine. Advantages of a motor-cultivator: it always starts from a half-turn; since there is a four-stroke engine, there is no need to oil the oil, just poured gasoline and change it a few times a year; easily fits into the trunk of any car, because it can be disassembled into two halves. Disadvantages of Tarpan: the gas is made very inconveniently - under the thumb of the right hand. He gets tired quickly.
Feedback from Sergey, a resident of Omsk, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator on his site:
With its light weight (48 kg) and "monstrous" excess power, it is difficult to take the virgin soil. If you first use a tractor plow that will break the roots, the lumps will be dealt with quickly and easily. Due to the peculiarity of the design, the reverse is not installed. But with its light weight, it can be deployed manually without any problems. I saw how a cart was dragged with a converted Tarpan. The plow does not pull because it is lightweight. And at the same time, it perfectly cuts the beds with a hiller on cutters. Excellent material from which the cutters were made.
Review of Andrey Ivanovich, a resident of Rostov, uses the Tarpan motor-cultivator in a greenhouse:
I sharpened them once after buying them, and never touched them again. Basically I use a hiller and cutters - I will cut the beds, plow and that's it. Needed is negligible gasoline: a 1.5-liter tank is enough for an hour of operation. The first time I took off the cutter cover, because it only got in the way, because a lot of grass is wound around the cutters. I also hung a 20 kg weight in front, thanks to which the virgin soil was taken much better. But she dangled in front and rocked the cultivator.
In general, if used for summer cottage work with a minimum of settings and hemorrhoids, this is quite a convenient thing. Also, do not forget that, first of all, the task of the cultivator is to loosen the soil, which he does just fine. Therefore, only cutters are included with it.
Feedback from Roman Viktorovich, a resident of Kharkov, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator at the dacha:
I have been working with Tarpan since 2004. Very satisfied. If, when working on heavy ground, he begins to jump and tries to run away, then first you need to remove and sharpen the knives. It is advisable to attach a load. Made a load of lead (melted old batteries). The result is a weight of 13 kg, has a compact volume and allows you to work perfectly. Also can be made in the form of several plates to adjust the weight. I use the load for digging trenches, virgin lands and primary plowing. Then I shoot and it works great.
Alexey, a resident of Kharkov, uses Tarpan on his personal plot:
Recently acquired by Tarpan. Yesterday I went through the garden with cutters. Feeling: the engine runs vibration-free and quiet; the cultivator is a little light, sometimes it jumps; perfectly cultivated the second time when turned the horns, no trace left. Processed seven acres. It took two hours and three liters of gasoline.
Vladimir Ivanovich, a resident of Belgorod, uses a motor-cultivator in the country:
The load on the back and arms is acceptable. In addition to milling cutters, I did not test attachments. The cutters have to be cleaned because they wind up the roots a lot. But I think that this is a plus, since weeds are removed from the garden. If the cutters are sharp, it will chop up the roots, after which weeds will multiply.
For its manufacture of the plow for the Tarpan motor-cultivator, high-strength special steel was used to withstand heavy loads. Its purpose is to plow the soil with a set of lugs, thanks to which the required tractive effort is created.
Video (click to play). |
The use of a plow is possible for the initial tillage. To loosen large clods of soil, cultivation is necessary.