DIY TV repair rubin 55m09

In detail: DIY TV repair rubin 55m09 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Compound : PWM - TDA4605-2, key SPP03N6055

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Vladislav, have you come across broken impulses in your practice?

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Compound : PWM - TDA4605-2, key SPP03N6055

Yesterday I repaired exactly the same defect, I also thought at first that the voltage was too low. This is normal for standby mode, in fact, your TV set is in standby mode. When the TV set starts up and the remaining voltages appear .. It is necessary to check the 8th leg of the industry relative to the case, it should be 5v, if it shows a short one, unhook 28 or 29 I don’t remember exactly the processor leg, but you’ll find it along the chain. At least I had a problem with the processor, the processor sat down to 5v. I replaced the processor, everything worked.

Today there was such a TV, video processor TDA8842, SAA controller. Power on TDA16846.
Came with a defect, does not turn on. The launch of TV went as it should, but the line was silent. and although there were pulses on the base of the lowercase output (but I did not like them), there were no pulses on the collector of the output. After replacing the line operator, the high went, TV started, but there was no line synchronization, the replacement of the video processor did not work.
The reason is the capacity at 0.047 microfarad. in the pre-output line collector circuit.
RC collector chain to body.

TV RUBIN 51M06
Video processor - TDA8842
No CP launch.When switching from DR to RR, all voltages from the power supply unit return to normal after 2 seconds. back to DR. The LED blinks. The line does not even try to start.
The culprit turned out to be C114 (22p), although the capacity was within the normal range. Leaks were not detected by the device.
Stands in the chain 9 feet TDA8842 to the ground.
When switching to PP, 6.6V appeared on the 9th leg of the TDA8842. It should be 6.7V.
The TOPIC on the MONITOR FALCON 37ТЦ6153 helped A-2010 there is no start line. THANK YOU HSLat.

Video (click to play).

According to the client, the TV sometimes switched to DR at first. Then more often. Then it stopped turning on completely. During the repair process, it also turned on in the PP a couple of times for a few seconds.
Apparently the C114 is another of the many reasons for disabling this chassis.

Rubies, Rollsen 2011, chassis KD-315 (power supply unit with three transistors) TDA11106 / 36
Defect - when standing in standby mode for a long time (for example, at night), it starts to rumble from the speakers.
Unlike Rubies and Rollsen 2010 years (chassis KD-035 A, B, C, D, E ) where the power supply was assembled on 5Q0765, in 2011 they returned to the old proven three-transistor power supply unit. But they forgot to put one detail, which is present in the three-transistor power supply circuits of fifteen years ago. Namely, the + B (+ 115v) pull-up resistor. The power supply unit in standby mode without load begins to break down and work in batches, all this will go to the ULF. The defect is eliminated by a resistor 1-2W, 10-15 kOm

The power supply unit of the TV Rubin 55M10-2 is assembled on the TDA16846 microcircuit. When you turn on the TV, the power supply tries to start, the LED blinks several times and goes out completely.

After attempts to start, the line scan voltage rises smoothly to 50 volts. All voltages are too low, there is no start.

If you forcibly try to start the TV by short-circuiting the collector-emitter of the transistor VT805 (BC548B), then the voltage rises from 50 to 70 volts and all voltages are also underestimated.

The defect turned out to be in the VD830 8.2V zener diode, which is in the D801 CNY17-2 optocoupler circuit. The zener diode had a large leak.

And yet another case, with another malfunction.

Rubin 55M10-2 TVs have a TDA9381 PS / N2 / 1I1156 processor. This processor is very sensitive to static discharges - it crashes right away (for example, during a thunderstorm).
This time it was necessary to remove the board and, accordingly, discharge the second anode of the kinescope. So they burned the percent.due to static discharge from the CRT. Therefore, it is better to discharge through a high-resistance resistance.

It is interesting that in many imported TVs TDKS-s are built in such a way that they do not support, remove high voltage at the second anode after turning off the TV, but ours, in this case on the TV Rubin 55M10-2, TDKS PET22-23V - let us down.

Hello everyone, I want to fix rubin 51m09t. Before this experience, there was nothing in the repair, so I ask you not to throw it too much. than they usually throw newcomers there.

1. In the standby mode, the LED blinks red with a characteristic "chucking", it can blink like this for a whole day, or it can disappear after 10 minutes, after which the red color of the watchman continuously turns on normally.

2. After switching on, there is no picture, only sound. I did not see any pattern, but the image always appears immediately after switching on or does not appear at all. There is always sound. If the picture after turning on did not appear immediately, then it certainly will not appear, even if you wait 8 hours.

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hair dryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Read also: DIY refrigerator seal repair

Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you are replacing this radio element with the same one - it is not yet a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radioelements are almost everywhere used; The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to repair the radio equipment on your own, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source.Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance for solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also keep in mind that no one should answer instantly or during, say, a day, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

There is this device, it is 6 years old. I have worked quite a lot. About two years ago, a horizontal strip of 5-10 centimeters wide appeared on the screen at the top, but it seemed to be translucent, and did not particularly interfere with viewing. So it worked for another year. Then one day he began to turn off himself after some time of work, and the time of this work was somehow reduced. Now, when turned on, it works for a couple of seconds and turns off.
I climbed, pulled out the board, saw on the board a darkened spot from heating under the CT15-3 thermistor and this (posistor?) Itself, although in a translucent case, but inside the darkened contacts. Well, not healthy at all. Dropped out. According to the diagram, I looked at a couple of details that next to it - two film capacitors dropped out (one according to the characteristics should be 470 nF, the tester showed something about 207; the second - from 100 nF there were about 7 nF left). I checked them on a tester and on a capacity meter - they showed the same way. And so on with a dozen more details I evaporated-checked, the largest electrolytes are also just in case. Yes, and according to reviews, I read that in Rubies this posistor often flies from overheating. I'll start with this

Explain sensibly about removing the residual charge from the anode: do I need to remove it if I do not plan to change the kinescope? I then threw one crocodile on the ground, the second led over the kinescope (the aquadak is kind of like the name of the area behind), poked them also on the payment for the multiplier (like he, which is high-speed, the storm from the sucker goes to him). There was no charge, since the TV set had stood disconnected from the network for a week or two. But I didn't climb under the sucker

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Translation: Natalia Kuznetsova

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For color TV RUBIN 55M09 (T) -1 the following documentation may be available:

Schematic diagram of color TV RUBIN 55M09 (T) -1 (order) (download)

Manual for repair and adjustment of color TV RUBIN 55M09 (T) -1 (order) (download)

Operating instructions for color TV RUBIN 55M09 (T) -1 (order) (download)

You can always order a circuit diagram for a color TV.

The possibility of ordering a manual for repair and adjustment, as well as operating instructions for a color TV RUBIN 55M09 (T) -1, please specify additionally.

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Percentage control SAA5541PS / M5 / 0355
Video processor: TDA8842
Power: TDA16846
HR: TDA6107Q
ULF: ILA7056B

51M06 Sound drops, image distorts

Malfunction: Our area has its own tower (800-2000 meters from the house) that broadcasts two programs, ORT 77.25 MHz and RUSSIA 93.25 MHz. The essence of the problem is as follows - on the first ORT program, the image and sound are in order, and on the 2nd Russia, the sound disappears and distorts the image at the top of the screen (more just sound is transmitted, and sometimes distortions appear), and more often this happens during program advertisements lead (in general, when the brightness signal is greater) - less often on films. Many people in our area have the same garbage (distortion), but they are almost invisible and the sound does not disappear. And on this TV it manifests itself strongly.
I tried to decrease - to increase the AGC, I also tried to lower the video signal - I hung a 390 ohm resistor in parallel with R114 and the VT 101 base through 2.7k to the ground, the image darkens a little and the defect remains. Sound filters have not changed yet ZQ101 ZQ102? I want to experiment С101 102 R101

Solution: I made sure that when the MUTE on the 5th leg is applied, the voltage of the padolo is not up to “0” but up to 1.3v. Now the sound does not pass, it just becomes slightly quieter - this is better than the sound.

55M06 Faint sound

Malfunction: Shows normal but weak sound. Sound ruler at a maximum of about 3 cm, can this be eliminated from the service?

Solution: I installed the flashed memory and set the max in the user. volume, before the firmware in the user, the sound line did not want to increase to the maximum (2-3 cm and that's it)

2512.) Rubin 51MO4-3. Fault: the TV turns on only in AV mode, it is not possible in normal TV mode. Power supply for MP, microcontroller control and memory are normal. When you try to replace the memory with a clean 24CO2, the screen is still in the same AV mode.! Only by flashing the memory on the programmer, the TV was restored.

2573.) RUBIN-55M06. Malfunction - breaks through TDKS (PET22-23) to ferrite from the high-voltage wire exit area. TDKS can be replaced with 154-177V (TV GOLDSTAR), making sure to control the glow value. In my case, I had to add another 2nf * 1600v to the original capacitance of 6.8nf * 1600v in the collector of the line transistor.

2593.) RUBY 55M0T9T Fault: after five minutes PAL disappears, when STV2249C cools down, PAL appears. Replacing STV2249C did not solve the problem. After replacing C130 (18p) with 68 (p), PAL appeared, the TV is working properly.

2627.) Ruby 55M10T-2. Fault: on "cold" it leaves the standby mode from the tenth time, or even longer. Then it turns on and if you turn it off and on again, it works fine. The VT700 KT972A turned out to be faulty, although the scheme should be BSR52.

2628.) Rubin 55M10T-2. Fault: does not leave the standby mode and emits weak “tsyk-tsyk-tsyk” with a frequency of half a second. The C822 100mkFH35V in the primary unit of the power supply unit turned out to be faulty.

2639.) RUBIN 55M07-1.Fault: a power transistor is broken in the power supply. I replaced it and the TDA16846 microcircuit, I turn it on, does not work. R806 1mOhm open circuit, start circuit. I also replaced the C819 with a 22nF leak of about 150kΩ.

2650.) RUBY 55M07-1 Fault: only noise on the screen, no sound, graphics are normal. On the 2nd leg of the tuner (AGC) U = 0V. Reason: R146 10k breakage from + 5V to AGC.

2666.) Rubin 63S05T. Fault: does not turn on from standby mode (protection is triggered). Defective VD706 (BY228) and Q701 (BU2508A).

2674.) Rubin 37M06-2 Fault: the remote control works only up to a meter. Replaced the remote control, to no avail. It turned out to be a dirty light guide in front of the photodetector.

2697.) Rubin 51M04. Fault: no OSD graphics; when switching channels, the raster disappears for 5-10 seconds, LOX is at the top of the raster. The reason turned out to be in the m / s of the personnel scan TDA3653C.

2701.) Rubin 55M09T. Fault: after 3-4 hours of operation, the TV spontaneously turns off into standby mode. The reason turned out to be in the power supply unit in the VD807 diode (1N4148) in which the reverse current increased during warming up.

2703.) Rubin 51M04-1. Fault: overvoltage from the power supply - faulty C807 (1.0 μF)

2708.) Rubin 55FM09T. Fault: the TV turns on for a long time. The voltage from the power supply unit is too high. (Instead of 115 - 130V) Defective optocoupler CNY17-2.

2717.) Rubin 37M09T-2. Fault: channels are not switched from the buttons on the TV panel. In the “MENU” mode - the buttons work. The problem is a faulty m / s EPROM. When you try to reflash it on the programmer, the recording does not occur. I changed it to a new one.

2718.) RUBIN 51M10-2 Fault: turns off in standby mode after 3-5 seconds. Launching through the service (menu + 0) gives a raster with backtracking. Replace VT-102. (the tester does not call)

2730.) RUBIN 55M06 Fault: after turning on the network, the TV tries to turn on (the red LED on the front panel glows dimly) and after 2-3 seconds. goes into standby mode, the red LED is on. At the moment of switching on, the increased voltage on the horizontal scan, instead of 115V - 160V, jumps from 145 to 180. In the standby mode, the voltage stabilization is normal. Resistors in the stabilization circuits correspond to the ratings. The C836 470.0x16V capacitor (loss of capacity up to 22mk) for the 13V power supply turned out to be guilty of the voltage increase, the voltage for the stabilization circuit sat down because of it through the VD825 diode. Further - the replacement of personnel m / s, after a corresponding check of voltages and signals.

2731.) Ruby 51M10 (T). Fault: a smooth increase in the sound level to the nominal value occurred 2-3 minutes after the TV set from standby to working. The ULF microcircuit (TDA7056V) turned out to be serviceable. The processor (TDA9381 / PS / N2i1.) And memory (24С08) were suspected. Further testing showed a smooth decrease in the voltage at pin 20 of the processor (approximately from 5 to 0.25 V). Upon reaching the minimum value, the sound level reached the nominal. After reducing the capacity of С111 (between terminal 20 of the processor and the common wire) to 0.1 μF (initial value 2.2 μF), the sound level began to reach the nominal level after 7-8 seconds. from the moment of entering the operating mode. Due to the fact that the user was satisfied with such work, the processor and memory were not checked.

2755.) RUBIN 55M10-08. Fault: the TV is not turned on, in STB mode, the indicator is on, and when you try to turn it on, it goes out. Composition: D101 TDA9381PS / N2 / 1I1156, D404 24CO8W6, D302 ILA7056B, D802 TDA16846, D600 TDA8357J, TDKS PET 22-23B. What I didn’t like right away was the slightly screwed picture tube. It can be seen that they began to collect RUBIN so quickly that there is no time for such trifles! When searching for a malfunction, a broken VT701 ST1803DHI was found, but after replacing another malfunction was revealed: after turning on the TV, there is no image (the kinescope is locked on the cathodes 246v, all other voltages of the MP, microcontroller are normal), if you add a little, the accelerating voltage raster with a reverse beam path is visible, sound accompaniment of TV programs is present, channels and volume are adjustable! With a light tapping of the chassis, a short vertical line jumps on the raster, an L701 non-propay was found (one pin is simply pressed to the chassis), obviously, this was the failure of the line transistor. Further, on the kinescope board, the culprit for the absence of the raster was found: a break in VD201 1N4148. After replacing the diode, the TV was restored.

2757.) Ruby 55M09-8 Fault: came with the fact that at start-up the LED started blinking, upon examination, a melted resistor was found in the power circuit of the kinescope board 8.2 ohm at 200v. When analyzed, a stitched diode.After the replacement, the device started up, but the raster is “wide” and “low”, a clear sign of an overestimated U PSU. Consecutive replacement 431, CNY 17-2, 4605 did not give any result, U is still 145c. Further measurements of all parts revealed a change in resistance R823, it stood at 120kom, according to the 130kom scheme, from 115v to an integrated zener diode to 195kom.

2766.) RUBIN 55FS10TP Fault: poor reception, with snow and distortion. Faulty 38 MHz filter. Replacement for K2955M.

2796.) RUBIN-55M10. Fault: There is an image, a hoarse sound, an enlarged raster. Understated + B to 100V. Leakage of diode VD825 (1N4148) in TL431 circuit.

2821.) RUBY 37MO4-1 Fault: green color prevails in the picture. Check for open circuit R205, R207 (100k).

2830.) Ruby 37/51 / 55M10 Chassis M10 Fault: the TV turns on, the LED on the front panel lights up brightly, there is no raster and no sound, whistling is heard from the power supply. When measuring the voltage at the output of the power supply unit, it is overestimated: instead of 115 volts, we have 190. Visually, it is visible that the resistor R834, the transistor VT806, the capacitor C841 1000.0 × 35 burned out. The central processor for 3.3 volt power supply has a short circuit. All these troubles occurred due to the breakage of the D801 CNY17-2 optocoupler. The circuit designer did not bother to properly power the TV's heart, the central processing unit. As a result, we have the following: when the optocoupler fails, the voltage on the VT806 collector rises by more than 35 volts. The transistor breaks through and instead of 3.3 volts, more than 10 volts can be supplied to the processor. He immediately fails.

P / S If the developer does not make changes to the scheme in the very near future, an epidemic will occur with sad consequences. If earlier I advised my friends to buy Ruby, now it is too rash to give such advice.

2882.) Ruby 51M10-2 Fault: no sound. Breakage R117 (22k).

2902.) Rubin 55FM10T. Fault: the TV does not turn on, the indicator is off. According to the owner, after a thunderstorm. There is no voltage at the output of the power supply. Faulty: D802 (TDA16846), D801 (CNY17-2) and VS802 (MCR22-8). After the replacement, the TV turned on in standby mode (the indicator lights up red), but when switched to operating mode, the indicator lights up green for seconds, a high crackle is heard and again goes into standby mode. Defective transistor VT805 (BC547) breakdown base emitter. After the replacement, the TV worked fine.

2962.) RUBIN 37M09T-2. Fault: in the standby mode, all voltages are normal, i.e. they are 30% of the norm, but when you try to turn it on, the voltages rise for a split second to the operating level, and then immediately drop to zero, which again leads to the standby mode. No overloads were found during diagnostics. As a result, it turned out that the resistor R823 130kOhm, increased the rating to 250kOhm, was naturally replaced with a more powerful resistor in order to avoid repetitions, this is not the first case with this chassis.

2964.) RUBY 55M06 Fault: after 20-25 min. the TV turns off and the power indicator starts blinking red. The TV may turn on immediately or after a few minutes. Then reverse the cycle of TV behavior. Elimination: Replacement of С816 47.0х25В, С825 10.0х50В, С827 100.0х35В, С701 100.0х35В. Soldering of all visible microcracks in the board. R801 was burnt - replaced.

2966.) Ruby 55M10T-2 Fault: after a thunderstorm, the power supply did not work due to TDA16846 and CNY17-2. After installing these parts, the TV started up, but channels began to switch spontaneously due to D101 type TDA9381 PS / N2 / 1I1156. After replacing the D101, the channels switched normally, but the volume quickly decreased to zero. When the volume was increased with the remote control, it again decreased to a minimum. If you press the volume + on the TV, then the channels were switched. Was in the breakdown VT405 type BC548B, it is in chain 7 of the TDA9381 leg.