DIY TV repair supra

SUPRA STV-2084E3... When you turn on the TV without a signal, such a picture is observed. The lower part of the frame is present, the upper part is absent, the separation is not clearly expressed, there is no pronounced separation strip. When a signal is applied, a normal image appears, but just above the middle of the screen, there is a black arrow-shaped stripe at the end. It turned out that the malfunction was in the frame scan output circuit, the capacitors and electrolytes of the output and feedback must be replaced.

SUPRA STV-1484 The image on the screen is sluggish (graphics are displayed normally) after two to three hours, according to the owner, it is restored. There was not enough strength to check this statement, after a day of work nothing has changed. The fault consisted in the breakdown of the LZP. After replacing it with a piece of wire, the normal operation of the TV was restored. The quality of the picture was quite satisfactory for the client.

Supra STV-2084DK When turned on, a squeak is heard coming from the power supply, the TV does not start. When checking the secondary circuits of the power supply unit, it turned out that + 12V and + 18V are normal, and instead of + 115V, only +28 - 30V. When the power was turned off from the horizontal scan, the voltage increased to + 115v. Checking the SPLIT of the transformer and its secondary circuits yielded nothing. When the scribe was connected, the voltage again sank to + 30V. I measured the pulsations on the D8075 diode with an oscilloscope and it turned out that the constant level is somewhere around + 30V, and the variable pulsations are higher. I replaced the diode, but it did not help, then I replaced the C8075 33.0x160v and everything returned to normal, the TV started up.

SUPRA STV1484DK chassis PC04 Very dark, almost invisible image, OSD behind the threshold of the tube closing. On cathodes of 220 V. Supply voltage VVU 240 V. instead of 180 c. It turned out: in the power supply circuit of pin 3 of the split tr-ra up to L804P 118 v. and cleanly, and after, at pin 3, the horizontal frequency pulses. Reason: C807S capacitance loss 47UF 160V.

SUPRA STV1484DK chassis RS04 When turned on with the network button, the TV enters standby mode and does not respond to commands from the remote control and from the front panel. It turned out that the STENDBY 12V voltage is not filtered. Reason: loss of capacitance C804S 1000 uF 16 V. After replacement, it turns on normally.

DAEWOO DMQ-1427/1457/2027/2057/2127/2157; SUPRA STV-2024; SHIVAKI STV-2012M4; NAM DMQ-2046 (Chassis: C-50); DAEWOO DTK-2053 (Chassis: C-52).

1. Tuning frequency drift. The inverter is built on the TA8701N. More often the L124 circuit is faulty (connected to pin 22), similar to the AFC circuit in AKAI CT-1407/2007 / 2107D. The built-in capacitor 47-51 pF is subject to replacement. The failure of the L125 circuit is also possible, its parameters are similar to those of L124. After replacing the capacitors, the usual procedure for sequential adjustment of the loops to the normal operation of the auto-lock system of stations.

2. Distorted, weak sound. The L128 circuit connected to the pin is guilty. 9 TA8701N. According to my data, the built-in capacitor has a nominal value of about 15 pF. We change it and tune it to the optimal sound.

SAMSUNG CK-3351/3362/5051/5314/5342/5361, SUPRA STV-2094 (Chassis: P68SA / SC), SAMSUNG CK / CW-3335/5035/5041/5081/5082/5318/5341 (Chassis: P69SA) , (Not less favorite devices of telemasters :-).

Does not keep the frequency of tuning to the TV program. These devices are built on the TDA8362 multifunctional microcircuit, which has only one tuning circuit at the IF frequency, connected to legs 2, 3 of AFC DET (T104). Again, the built-in capacitor with a capacity of about 68 pF is to blame. We change it to a hinged one and sequentially adjust the contour to normal auto-capture of stations (the setting is quite sharp).

Supra STV-20 on STR50103A - does not turn on from standby mode without warming up for 30 minutes. Change С4.7 * 50v to (+ 16v), set no more than 10.0

Supra CTV1485 MC-41A chassis, aka Goldstar GF-14/20 / 21A80 MC-41A / B. In SEKAME there is no blue color, in PAL everything is OK. In SECAMA, the blue B-Y core circuit is L504, does not react to rotation. Do not rush to change the TA8750AN microcircuit, swap the L504 and L502 circuits connected through capacitors to pins 35 and 29 of the TA8750AN. In my case, after rearranging the contours in places, everything worked, obviously, the soldering of the legs (inside) of the contour affected, after which a small adjustment of the contours is required.

SUPRA STV-2084... There is a high and a sound, the picture tube is locked. After about half an hour, a picture appears. Dried C416 50.0X250V.

SUPRA STV2128... Changing the size of the raster when changing the contrast. Dried condenser 1.0x160 V in the power supply unit.

Supra STV-2017... When the power supply is turned on, a characteristic squeak is heard. After five minutes of warming up, the squeak stops. During the squeak, some programs go astray. I soldered the PSU and SR and changed the capacitors in the PSU - everything is OK.

Supra STV 2112W aka Shivaki STV-2017M4. A noteworthy defect. Came to be repaired with a broken HOT. After the replacement, by the evening when it was taken out of standby mode, the transistor was knocked out on a new one. During further repairs, an interesting feature was noticed. When switching the device to the duty room, the line does not turn off. When turned on, like in American cinema, the TV started working instantly. In standby mode for ms TDA2579V, (master) in standby mode, the supply voltage is absent. Short-circuited the ms output on the page r.-ku to ground, the lower case still works. I planted the base of the pre-exit tr-ra on the ground, one devil is working in full mode. The defect turned out to be in the 115 volt supply. Made in the same way as in the old GoldStar, two tanks, one after the diode, the second after the choke. The second was dry. The power supply of the TMS is also taken from 115, and the pickup from the horizontal scan was enough to support the generation on the TMS.

Supra STV-2128MS and other TVs assembled on the C-50N (C-50AN) chassis, STR50103A is used as the main element of the power supply. The raster is narrowed both vertically and horizontally, at the top of the screen there is a twist in the frame, the adjustment to the channels is lost. When measuring the output voltage of the power supply, we observe a voltage of 60% of the nominal. When replacing electrolytic capacitors in the power supply unit C832, C830 (1μF / 160V), the malfunction disappears.

DAEWOO, SUPRA, ELEKTA (Chassis C-50NA) Defects manifest themselves in different ways: no start-up, narrowed screen horizontally and large vertical size, vertical twist. And there is only one malfunction - a low supply voltage of the power supply unit. Change C830, C832.

Supra STV-2900XT... No startup lowercase / no high. When measured on IC803 (7812), the input is 6 volts. It turned out that channel 12v is connected to channel 27v, and with a punctured personnel microcircuit, we have such a failure. Replace TDA3654Q.

Supra, STV-2024... No color, buzzing on sound. Unable to configure UPCHI. The inverter runs normally from the generator. Defective transistor Q503 (2SC3198) in the SYSTEM switching circuit.

Supra STV-2900XT... Fault: after replacing a burned-out 1000 pF 2000 V capacitor in the horizontal output stage, the horizontal scan does not start. When measured on IC 803 (7812), the input is 6 volts. The stabilizer output is overload. It turned out to be broken by the power supply of the TDA8145.

SUPRA STV2024 Fault: the standby mode does not light up, the TV does not turn on, no 103v., Breakdown of C453 3.3x250V on the picture tube board.

Supra STV2128... Chassis C-50N. Fault: very quiet sound. Normal operation was restored when the TA8701N IC was replaced.

SUPRA STV-2062DK (chassis C500) The main power supply is assembled on STK73410II. Fault: does not turn on from standby mode. Replace it and two litics C808 and C810.

SUPRA STV2084DK... (The scheme is typical for GOLDSTAR TVs). Fault: the screen is dark, when an accelerating voltage is added, the image appears with a strip at the top of the screen, when the + V supply voltage is added, the strip disappears, the image becomes brighter. The supply voltage of the video amplifiers has been increased to 224V instead of 180V. The C8065 47.0x160v turned out to be faulty. Along the way, I replaced the capacitor C406 1.0x160v.

Supra STV-2017. Fault: the raster is narrowed horizontally and vertically, a fold in the image is frame-by-frame, the power supply is squealing. The voltage under load drops to 70V. Defective C830 (1.0x160V)

It is impossible to imagine a modern apartment or house without video and audio equipment. This equipment is used every day and therefore breaks down more often than others. There are several ways to repair TVs: send the technician to a service center, call a qualified technician at home, or make repairs with your own hands.

Before you start repairing a TV, you first need to make sure what the problem is. This will also help if you do the repair yourself, and then when the master comes, you will be able to explain the situation to him.

There are several types of malfunctions that can most often be found when a TV breaks down.

1. The technique does not turn off. In independence, a CRT TV or a modern LCD model has broken down, this malfunction is associated with a blown fuse. Only different models have distinctive details from each other. You should also pay attention to the diode bridge - perhaps it was he who burned out.
2. In both domestic and imported models, the potential can often go astray, for the function of which the posistor is responsible.
3. If the plasma TV monitor is broken, then the problem, most often, is interference or drops, light or dark stripes may appear, color changes while watching a program or movie.
4. The problem may be a broken cord or a faulty outlet.

If we take into account all the troubles listed above, it is worth saying that the most difficult breakdown is considered to be a screen malfunction. For example, light reflections appear on your monitor after the liquid hits the matrix or the TV is hit, then it is better to carry it to the teleservice. Here it will certainly be repaired, and if the warranty period has not expired, then it will be free of charge or at a reduced price.

See also - How to choose a TV for your home in 2018?

You can try to fix some malfunctions of TVs yourself. And it doesn't matter here - these are LCD models, LCD or LED, it is not necessary to call the wizard if you are confident in your abilities. But caution never hurts, because such TV models are not cheap, and without any repair experience or knowledge in this area, you can only harm and aggravate the breakdown.

Before you start repairing LED or LCD TVs, you must carefully read the instructions, and also study the principle of operation of your model. Anyone, even far from this field, will understand that the repair of TVs such as LCD or LED will differ from CRT models. In the latter case, you are guaranteed not to run into a faulty PTC thermistor. The main thing here is to determine the problem, why does the backlight not work?

If you are repairing LCD, LED models, then the only difference here will be what kind of backlight is used. If it is an LCD TV, then the backlighting is produced using fluorescent or fluorescent lamps. For TVs, LED backlighting is produced using LEDs. At this point, the differences between LCD models usually end.

The breakdown may consist only in the fact that there is no power, in order to check this on an LCD TV, you can do the following with your own hands:

• open the back cover of the model;
• remove the wires connected to the matrix;
• connect the working lamp to the contacts;
• there are also LCD models in which more than one light source is provided. In this case, all sources must be tested. Just dismantle the matrix and plug your TV into the network - you can see which LED is the problem.

When a broken lamp in an LED or LCD TV is identified, it must be replaced. This stage requires maximum care from the master, as well as the manifestation of special attention. In some cases, the lamp is removed without removing the matrix, you just need to move the protection elements with a rubber gasket and pull out the lamp with a soldering iron. Similarly, it is necessary to mount a working light bulb. Now we can congratulate you - you did the repair of the LCD TV with your own hands! Just pay attention to one important nuance - the new light bulb must fully meet the parameters and dimensions of the broken one!

To repair TVs yourself, look carefully at the matrix! If there are "unhealthy" streaks here, then the breakage is in the matrix. Have a new part? Then everything is simple! You change it and turn on the TV, if it works, then you have accurately identified the breakdown.

If the reason for the breakdown of LCD TVs is the screen, then it is best to purchase new models of LCD or LED equipment. It is not recommended to change the screen of LCD and LED models, as it is impractical! This also applies to the LCD matrix.

What could be the problem with a malfunctioning plasma TV? If it is necessary to repair plasma TVs, then proceed in the same way as described above. Just adapt it to your specific case. This description can be applied to any model of plasma TV, just stock up on the necessary tools in advance.

Although today most users prefer to use plasma, many still watch programs on more outdated CRT models. Let's find out how to repair a breakdown in such TVs. Below is a step-by-step instruction that will help you repair your electron beam product with your own hands.

• If you do not turn on such a device, check first of all the fuses. In these TVs, the back is made up of panels. Therefore, it is necessary to unscrew that part of the panels. Under such panels you will find a board and the power terminals must be connected to the fuse. They are connected to a conventional incandescent lamp, or rather to its base, after which the TV must be connected to the network. In the event that your equipment is in good working order, the lamp will go out after switching on, otherwise, when the fuse has blown, it will either not work at all, or it will constantly burn.
• The diode bridge may also break. It should only be borne in mind that it is necessary to regulate and repair it only after making a dial. In this case, not only a multimeter is used, but also a product passport, which indicates the main parameters of this model.
• The most difficult breakdown in a TV with a kinescope is a posistor. To check with your own hands, you must first turn off the power circuit, and then turn it on. In this case, the lamp must be monitored. If the work lamp goes out, then it can be said that the posistor is faulty. To make repairs, it is necessary to adjust the resistance of the network and only ventures to change this part.

But not only the matter may be in the posistor, transistors and capacitors burn out in CRT models. The diagnosis of this breakdown can also be made visually. If the condensate is blackened or cracked, then we replace it with a serviceable analogue. Now you know why the TV does not work and how to fix it yourself.

Recently, an active reader of my blog Master Sergey sent a story about his successful LCD TV repair Supra STV-LC2622W... His TV stopped turning on and he turned to me for advice. We read below what came of this.

LCD TV model SUPRA STV-LC2622W version V1J03
Inverter + PSU- MIP260B
Mine board-B.LT918C:
Processor - I could not disassemble it, because it is located under the radiator,
flash - 25L4005A MC
RAM - H5DU1262GTR-E3C
video processor - TDA8890H1 / N1B
tuner - TDQ-6F61T1260W
Matrix: M260TWR1.

Sergey began repairing the Supra LCD TV - he disassembled and checked all the tracks - it seems to be intact, then he checked the ceramic capacitors. I rang the details for a short circuit, I did not like the PWM microcircuit, because it had two legs closed.

This chip OB2262, analogues - OB2263, SG6848, SG5701, SG5848, LD7535, LD7550. Sergey replaced the PWM - put the LD7535, as shown in one of the diagrams for a similar TV.

When the TV was turned on, the duty LED blinked and clicks were heard in the speakers. From the remote control it turned on like this: when the voltage appeared, the standby mode came on and by pressing the remote control several times it was possible to get into the turn-on time and turn on the TV.

I measured the rest of the voltages - they appear and disappear in time with the blinking of the duty room LED.

I advised Sergey to replace the small electrolytes with which the PWM microcircuit is hung, because in my practice I periodically meet such defects. But it seems that the solution to the problem was different.

Sergey bought for 100 rubles. another microcircuit OB2263 and everything worked - the voltage is normal.

Turned on the TV - it works well, the remote control listens, but sometimes it does not turn on from the button on the TV. The details I checked on both boards do not heat up. Perhaps the power button needs to be cleaned.The repair was completed successfully and Sergey wrote the following a comment:

“… Denis, thank you so much! ... and can I describe to you such a case with my TV, I was not the only one who suffered so much ... I found it on the Internet with the same power supplies. If you write on your website, you will help radio amateurs. " Therefore, as I promised, I am spreading Sergey's case about the successful repair of the Supra STV-LC2622W LCD TV with my own hands - someone will definitely come in handy.

Then we switched to communication by e-mail and Sergey told how he repaired the soap bubble generator. But that's a completely different story.

I am writing for all readers of my blog - bolder ask for support to knowledgeable people on the Internet. Just describe your problem in detail so that the desire to help you does not turn into an interrogation. I am for freedom of information on the Internet and its benefits for ordinary people.

79.) SUPRA STV-2084E3. When the TV is turned on without a signal, such a picture is displayed. The lower part of the frame is the presence of the upper vіdіlennya vіdіlennya not clearly bends, the smog razdіlennya vіrazdіnnya vіddіnnya. When a signal is given, the image appears to be normal, a little more than the middle of the screen, the black smog is spared from the view of the arrow on the end. Opinioned that the disparity was in the field of cadres, the capacitor of the electric power and the ringing must be replaced.

262.) SUPRA STV-1484 The image on the screen of the blast (the graph is displayed normally) in two or three years, according to the statement of the owner, will be updated. I didn’t need to change my strength, I didn’t remember anything through the robot. The incomparability was in the test of the LZYA. When you change it to a dart, the TV robot has been updated. The brightness of the picture completely pleased the client.

Upgrade to No. 359. A similar defect can also be detected in TB DAEWOO-2057, SUPRA-2024 on the C50N chassis. There, through the capacitor C830 1x160 V, pulses are supplied from the TDKS for synchronization of STR50103 with a row frequency. When the capacitor turns (withers?), The screen repairs itself, with the programs it can stabilize.

363.) Supra STV-2084DK When a sensitive squeak is turned on from the living unit, the TV will not start. When the second lancers were reversed, the power supply appeared, + 12V and + 18V at normal, and + 115V in total +28 - 30V. When turned on, the life from the row of the rosette, the napruga moved up to + 115V. The revision of the SPLIT transformer and the second lancers did not give anything. When the scribbler was connected, the spout again subsided up to + 30V. Having frozen the pulsation oscillograph on the diode D8075, it appeared that a steady rate of + 30v appeared, and a change in pulsation. Having replaced the diode, Aletse did not help, but replaced the C8075 33.0x160v and everything returned to normal, the TV started up.

481.) SUPRA STV1484DK shasi PC04 Even darker, the image is not visible, OSD is beyond the threshold of the closed screen. On cathodes 220 st. Napruga livelihood VVU 240 Art. replace 180 Art. Opinilosya: lantsyuzi vivodu vivodu 3 split tr-ra up to L804P 118 st. і clean, and when, on vivodі 3 pulses of the row frequency. Reason: loss of capacitance C807S 47 microfarads 160 st.

483.) SUPRA STV1484DK Shasi Рс04 When the TV set is turned on with the fenestration button, enter the mode of operation and does not respond to commands from the remote control or from the front panel. It appeared that the STENDBY 12 was not shown. Reason: waste of capacitance С804s 1000 microfarads 16 st. The message will turn on normally.

DAEWOO DMQ-1427/1457/2027/2057/2127/2157; SUPRA STV-2024; SHIVAKI STV-2012M4; NAM DMQ-2046 (Chassis: C-50); DAEWOO DTK-2053 (Chassis: C-52).

1.Vidhid frequency and settings. IF incentives on TA8701N. The often faulty circuit L124 (connections to pin 22) is similar to the AFC circuit in AKAI CT-1407/2007 / 2107D. Replace the capacitor 47-51 pF. You can change the L125 circuit and the analog L124. After replacing the capacitors, there is a special procedure for the post-processing of the circuits to normal robotic systems and auto-storage of stations.

2. Creation, faint sound. Vinen contour L128p_connection to pin. 9 TA8701N. For my given data, the capacitor is rated at 15 pF. Minutes and tunes for optimal sound.

SAMSUNG CK-3351/3362/5051/5314/5342/5361, SUPRA STV-2094 (Chassis: P68SA / SC), SAMSUNG CK / CW-3335/5035/5041/5081/5082/5318/5341 (Chassis: P69SA) (Not less fond of telemasters :-).

Do not trim the TV program frequency. This device was prompted for a multifunctional microcircuit TDA8362, all of which have one tuning circuit at the IF frequency, connections up to 2, 3 AFC DET (T104). I know a 68 pF Umkistyu capacitor is invented.Minyayumo yogo on navіsnіy and lastly pіdstroyumo contour to the normal auto-storage of stations (setting to finish the gostra).

P.S. These recommendations can be used for other devices on similar microcircuits. Even if the capacitor is replaced, the circuit does not tune to the required frequency, you can try to change the capacitance in either direction with a 5-10 pF croc (at a nominal 47 pF)

612.) Supra STV-20 on STR50103A - do not turn on from the charging mode without a 30 min program. Minute C4.7 * 50v to (+ 16v), set no more than 10.0

654.) Supra CTV1485 MC-41A chassis, in the same Goldstar GF-14/20 / 21A80 MC-41A / B. SEKAME has a blue color, in LIG everything is OK. The SEKAME has a blue B-Y core contour L504, does not react to wrapping. Do not match the TA8750AN microcircuit, remember the circuits L504 and L502, connected through capacitors to 35 and 29 TA8750AN. In my mind, when the contours were rearranged in mice, everything began to flow, obviously, it was the one who sang low (middle) contours, when the contours were not needed much to adjust the contours.

663.) SUPRA STV-2084. Є high and sound, kinescope of closures. Approximately through pіvgodini a picture appears. Visoh C416 50.0X250V.

910.) SUPRA STV2128. Change to the size of the raster when changing the contrast. Visoh capacitor 1.0x160 u in the power supply unit.

1216.) Supra STV-2017. When the moon is on, a squeak is characteristic of the living block when the moon is on. Through five hilin progrivannya squeak beep. For an hour the squeak is filled with deyaki programs. Proposing the power supply unit and the SR and remembering the condenser in the power supply unit - everything is OK.

1340.) Supra STV 2112W in the same Shivaki STV-2017M4. The defect is old respect. Priyshov for repairs we beat HOT. When you change it, until the evening, when you switch from the clock mode, the transistor vibrated on new one. When repairing for a long time, the specialness has been determined. When changing the device at the side, the line is not included. When turned on, like in American cinema, TV has started mittєvo pratsyuvati. In the circulating mode, on ms Tda2579v, (setting) in the circulating mode, the energy is energized during the day. Short-circuited on masu vyhid ms on the side. r.-ku, all one ryadkova pratsyuє. Having planted the base of the mobile trans-ra on the masu, one bus is working in the main mode. The defect has landed at 115 volts. It’s so broken in the old days GoldStar, two capacities, one letter from a diode, another letter from a drosel. The friend is dry. The life of the TMS is also taken from 115, and the installation of the row of the rosette began to be used for the generation of the TMS.

1341.) Supra STV-2128MS і інші TVіzori, from the selection on the chassis С-50n (C-50AN), as the main element of the living unit is STR50103А. The raster of sounds yak vertically, so also horizontally, at the top of the screen it is possible to turn around the frame, wherever it is tuned to the channel. In case of vimіryuvannі vіchіdnoї strains the block of living sposterіgmo sprue 60% of all nominal. When replacing electrical capacitors in the unit C832, S830 (1mkF / 160V), there is an imbalance.

1350.) DAEWOO, SUPRA, ELEKTA (Chassis C-50NA) Defects occur in different ways: no launch, screen sounds horizontally and great vertical dimension, vertical rotation. And there is only one inequality - the life pressure of the BP is small. Minyati C830, C832.

1356.) Supra STV-2900XT. Nemaє start lowercase / no high. With vimіra on IC803 (7812) on inputsі 6 volts. The 12v channel was described by the connection with the 27v channel, and when the personnel microcircuit was broken through, maєmo taku vidmovu. Replace TDA3654Q.

1394.) Upgrade to secrets No. 92, 893, 1111. SUPRA STV-2040 with a TA8701AN sound channel microcircuit. Guchnost is maximum and not regulated. The reason is in the TA8701AN microcircuit, for my eyes the reason is at the turn from the 14th microcircuit to “+”. It’s not necessary to add 2 elements - a transistor (for example Kt209) and a 22-50 kOhm resistor. It is necessary to build the path to the 14th leg of the IMC, solder the emitter of the transistor to the 14th leg, the base of the transistor and the resistor - to the side, the collector and the insulator of the resistor - to the case.

1705.) Supra, STV-2024. Nemaє koloru, gudinnya by sound. It is not a bad idea to nabuduvati UHCHI. It is normal to pass through the generator of the inverter. Invalid transistor Q503 (2SC3198) at the SYSTEM jumper.

1806.) Supra STV-2900XT. Incompatibility: after replacing the capacitor 1000 pF 2000, it burned out, at the outgoing cascade of the row rosette, the row rozgortka does not start. With vimіra on IC 803 (7812) on inputsі 6 volts. At the inputs of the stabilizer - rewiring. It appeared with a broken TDA8145.

2058.) SUPRA STV2024 Incompatibility: the check mode does not appear, the TV set does not turn on, 103v. Probe C453 3.3x250V on the kinescope board.

2177.) Supra STV2128. Shasi C-50n. Incomparability: even quieter sound. The normal robot was updated when the ІМС TA8701N was replaced.

2389.) SUPRA STV-2062DK (chassis C500) Mainly live on the STK73410II. Incomparability: not included in the cheer mode. Replace її and two litics С808 and С810.

2633.) SUPRA STV2084DK. (The scheme is typical for GOLDSTAR TVs). Incomparison: the screen is dark, when the pressure is added, the image appears from the dark at the upper part of the screen, when the lively pressure is added + In the dark, the image is bright. The tension of the vividness of the video was increased to 224V, replaced by 180V. C8065 47.0x160v is incomparable. Along the way, replacing the capacitor C406 1.0x160v.

2705.) Supra STV-2017. Inconsistency: raster of sounds along the horizontal and vertical lines, fold on the images in frames, the block of vividness to squeal. The voltage before the voltage drops is up to 70V. Wrong C830 (1.0x160V)

2783.) Supra STV-1454K. Incomparability: When turned on, a kalamut-green raster appears, and after a dozen hour the neck of the kinescope will open at once with the system downward. When replacing the kinescope, everything is repeated. Inadequate (breakdown) capacitor 2200mf 25v at the outputs of the AN5515 personnel socket.

P.S. on the forum of the "monitor" as if there was a hot discussion on the topic. Ale deyakі old-timers of the whole forum didn’t want to admit the fact. If the glass is defective, if it is squeezed with a deflector, it will hit the electromagnet.

For myself, I can say for the experiment, we took 14 monitor kinescopes. The deflector is not secured to the shaft і at the moment of opening the throat і did not rip, did not rotate about the throat. Please tell me that the glass is not defective or if it is pinched by the deflector, the impact of the electromagnet can be damaged.

Go to the top and fly to the vidhilyayuch system of the personnel kit. And there it was, there were a long way to see melodiously to fakhivtsiv.

Before you can go to any kind of diagonal of the kinescope, you will often get lost with such a disparity between the kinescope, but if it’s not a problem, then it’s not necessary to blame the throat, just flip through the OS.

After working in the kitchen for about three years, suddenly such a small Supra LCD TV went out and stopped turning on. He did not react to pressing the buttons on the remote control and on the TV itself. The LED on the TV, somehow not stable, sometimes switched from red to green and vice versa.

I made a small animation. This is approximately how it looked in real life.

To begin with, I decided to delve into it myself, since sometimes I managed to fix the TVs on my own, although those TVs were tubular. He took it off the wall, disconnected the external power supply and antenna. After that, he unscrewed the homemade bracket so as not to interfere with the disassembly of the case.

This is actually its marking, model, number and other dregs.

I unscrewed ten self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter, they are not all the same, so we remember which one from where.

Then remove the cover. If you look at the photo below, then it must be pulled out from under these connectors, since it is slightly pressed by them.

Something like this looks like the insides of this TV model. Its power supply is external, and there are only a couple of boards inside the TV. Since I am far from an electrician, even very far away. Then he decided to inspect it himself, and then call specialists. For half a day I bumped it, in the hope that the breakdown lies in a bad or loose connection. I checked the voltage on the power supply with a tester, even changed it to another one, with a current slightly less than the prescribed one. I disconnected all the cables from the main board in turn. I also tried to find something suspiciously heating up, burned-out tracks on the board, etc. etc.

As a result, this TV was sent to x. (to the master), or rather, I summoned the master to him. Fortunately, their sharashka is located not far from the house, or rather the master is not far, since they most likely work in the districts, and the workshop itself is devil-where. He came quickly, for where else they give almost a piece for a look. With the tester, he poked a couple of times into the small board on the left (pictured below). I checked the power supply, then jabbed my finger at the processor (I think so) on the main board and said that it should be changed.Then, according to the price list, he named the approximate price of this upgrade, something about 3000r (the cost of the same TV at that time was about 5000r). Then he wrote out a referral to the workshop so that they would not do the diagnosis a second time.

In order not to further sponsor a home appliance repair company, at a family council they decided to buy a new TV for the kitchen. Yes, they have already picked it up and ordered it in an internet store. But since the order came on the weekend, there were still three days to wait for it. During this time, I tried to find friends in the network in misfortune. And on some forum I found something similar, where a person raised the topic of a malfunction with about the same symptoms as mine. There, in the comments, people referred to a voltage regulator, at the output of which the voltage sags. As a result, the TV does not turn on and does not react to anything.

It is located near the white shoe on top, under the black tourniquet. Having measured the voltage between the first and second terminals, it turned out that it is almost twice as low as 0.6v. Although there on the forum they say that there should be 1.26v.

Somehow this monster looks like this (stabilizer BM1117-ADJ), in size it is slightly larger than a match head 🙂 After going through a bunch of pieces of iron in the apartment, I found something similar, but with slightly different markings. Therefore, I decided to go to the Tsaritsyn radio market to find exactly the same one. But we couldn't find the same stabilizer there. Those who sell purely parts didn't have it. Unfortunately, I didn’t get it on used boards.

On bezrybe, I decided to put the one that I found on my sound card from the computer, that is, AMS1117.

For clarity, I sketched a diagram of the work done (photo below). After installing AMS1117, the voltage on pins 1 - 2 became 2.2v. But the TV still didn't turn on. Using the poke method, I tried to lower the voltage by soldering the resistor into the gap of the third terminal. I got this resistance by about 3-4 Ohms. Then the TV started up fine.

Attention!
I am not an electrician and not even a radio amateur, I did all this out of sports interest, with the expectation that if I did not fix it, I would throw it out the window 🙂 Therefore, if you are afraid to set yourself or the TV set on fire, then in no case do all this. Either look for the original stabilizer, or bring it in for repair.

Since I have no resistance for 3-4 Ohms, I had to make it up of four resistors of 10 Ohms each, connected in parallel. In total, we got such a bandolier, which was melted into the rib of the TV case. And I stretched the ends from it to the stabilizer and the board. Due to the tightness, I had to solder the stabilizer itself with its end to the board. In general, in the pictures below, you can see this whole vegetable garden 🙂

In general, I had to cancel the order for a new TV, since this one has been working for a week. If you have the same TV or the same signs of illness, then try to find this stabilizer on the board and measure the voltage at its terminals. Perhaps your TV has something similar and you just need to replace this part. Most of all, it was upset that the master immediately rejected the TV. He didn't even bother to ring the processor's power supply circuits, or at least he would pretend that he was looking for a malfunction. Almost immediately straight to the forehead, take it to the workshop and give it another 3000. In my opinion, all his diagnostics initially boiled down to checking the power supply. The devil only knows how correct all this is, but so far everything works great. Maybe over time, experts in their field will unsubscribe in the comments.

After working with the new stabilizer for about a month, this TV still did not turn on about three times during this period. Therefore, out of four resistors, I had to leave only three, biting off one of them with side cutters. That is, instead of a 2.5 ohm resistor, it now costs

3.3 ohm. At the moment, it has worked for more than a year, there were no more glitches with the inclusion.

Recently I found and bought on Ali in this store, here are such BM1117-ADJ stabilizers, unfortunately in China they like to sell everything in wagons, so the minimum batch of such parts consists of five pieces and costs about 200r. And since the TV for some reason still works great on my substitution from the sound card, these new stabilizers are still lying around, sealed.

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Repair of budget TV Supra

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Video Repair of the budget TV Supra of the Vintik i Shpuntik channel

It is no secret that a breakdown of a television receiver can ruin the mood of any owner. The question arises, where to look for a good master, do you need to take the device to a service center? You need to spend your time on this, and what is important - money. But, before calling the master, if you have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and know how to hold a screwdriver and a soldering iron in your hands, then repairing the TV with your own hands in some cases is still possible.

Modern LCD TVs have become more compact and easier to repair. Of course, there are breakdowns that are difficult to detect without special diagnostic equipment. But most often there are malfunctions that can be detected even visually, for example, swollen capacitors... With such a breakdown, it is enough to evaporate them and replace them with new ones with the same parameters.

All TV sets are the same in their structure and consist of a power supply unit (PSU), a motherboard and an LCD backlight module (lamps are used) or LED (LEDs are used). It is not worth repairing the motherboard on your own, but the power supply unit and screen backlight lamps are quite possible.

As already mentioned, the design and principle of operation of LED and LCD TVs, regardless of the manufacturer, are the same. Of course, there are some differences, but they do not play a significant role in the diagnosis of faults. Often, in the event of a problem with the power supply, the LCD TV does not turn on at all, while there is no indication, or it turns on for a while and turns off spontaneously. Using an example, the repair of a DAEWOO LCD power supply unit (can be applied to plasma) is considered, which is not much different from repairing an LG TV, as well as Toshiba, Sonya, Rubin, Horizon and similar models.

1. First of all, before you repair the TV, you need to remove the back panel of the device with a screwdriver by unscrewing the screws. On some models, the rear wall may be latches installedwhich must be handled with care so as not to break them.
2. After removing the cover, you will see the power supply unit, consisting of several modules on the left, and the motherboard on the right.
3. 
4. On the power supply board you can see 3 transformers: the bottom one is the mains rectifier choke, the top one on the left (large) feeds the inverter, and on the right is the standby power supply transformer. You need to start checking with it, since it turns on the standby mode of the TV receiver.
5. Duty transformer when the device is connected to the network, it should give out a voltage of 5 V. In order to correctly find the wire on which you need to measure the voltage, you can use the diagram, or you can see the markings on the case. In this case, opposite the required contact is written - 5 V.
   

Measurement is taken first open circuitby connecting one probe to the found contact, and the other to the cathode of the diode on the radiator. In this case, there is no break.

Further, one tester probe can be attached to the body of the device, the other to the previously selected contact, and measure the voltage, having previously connected the telly to the network. In this case, the device shows 1.5 V, instead of the required 5 V.Such readings of the transformer indicate that it is working, but not at full strength. The reason may be dry condenserlocated below, or swollen - above the transformer.

To remove the parts that have become unusable, it is necessary to remove the power supply board. To do this, first disconnect all wires and the matrix cable coming from the inverter and the system board. So that in the future, after repairing the power supply, you do not get confused where what is connected, you can take a picture of them before disconnecting the wires and loops.

Now you can remove the entire LCD TV power supply by unscrewing the 4 screws. After removing it, it is very important discharge all capacitorsto avoid electric shock.

We solder the defective capacitors and replace them with new ones, observing the polarity.

The assembly of the device takes place in the reverse order: the board is screwed into place, all connectors and cables are connected, the rear panel of the unit is closed.

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We again measure the voltage on the transformer of the TV's power supply (the device should turn on) and see that it has become 5v. When you unfold the repaired TV receiver, you will see that it works.

As you can see from the review presented above, repairing TV power supplies with your own hands is not such an overwhelming task. Following this description, you can also repair plasma TVs.

Do-it-yourself TV repair with a kinescope, for example, such as: Rubin, Horizon, Sharp 2002sc, LG TVs, as well as repair of the Vityaz TV, begins with checking the power supply unit for operability (this is done if the unit does not turn on). It is checked using incandescent bulbs for 220 V and a power of 60-100 W. But before that, be sure to disconnect the load, namely the horizontal output stage (SR) - connect a lamp instead. The CP voltage ranges from 110 to 150 V, depending on the size of the tube. Must be found in the secondary circuit SR filter capacitor (its values ​​can be from 47 to 220 microfarads and 160 - 200 V), which stands behind the SR power rectifier.

To simulate the load, you need to connect a lamp in parallel to it. To remove the load, for example, in the popular Sharp 2002sc model, it is necessary to find and unsolder the inductor (located after the capacitor), the fuse and the limiting resistance through which the CP stage receives power.

Now you need to connect the power supply to the power supply unit, and measure the voltage under load. The voltage should be between 110 and 130 V if the CRT has a diagonal of 21 to 25 inches (as in the 2002sc model). With a diagonal of 25-29 inches - 130-150 V, respectively. If the values ​​are too high, then it will be necessary to check the feedback circuit and the power supply circuit (primary).

It should be noted that electrolytes dry out during prolonged operation and lose capacity, which, in turn, affects the stability of the module and contributes to an increase in voltage.

When the voltage is too low it is necessary to test the secondary circuits to exclude leaks and short circuits. After that, the diodes for the protection of the power supply of the SR and the diodes for the power supply of the vertical scan are checked. If you are convinced that the power supply unit is working properly, then you need to disconnect the lamp and solder all the parts back. This check can also come in handy when doing DIY Philips TV repairs.

Another common breakdown of the TV that can be eliminated is the burnout of the backlight lamp. In this case, the TV receiver, after switching on, flashes the indicator several times and does not turn on... This means that after self-diagnosis, the device notices a malfunction, after which the protection is triggered. That is why there is no image on the screen.

For example, a Sharp LSD TV receiver with this malfunction was taken, although in this way it is possible to repair Samsung TVs, Sony Trinitron, Rubin, Horizon, etc.

To fix the TV, you need to remove the back cover from the TV. This requires a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Next, you need to be careful disconnect loops from the matrix.

The next step is to detach the control panel from the case. You do not need to remove it, you will still need it to turn on the device.

The remaining loops also need to be disconnected. Then it is necessary to remove the housing on which the electronic boards are fixed.

Before removing the matrix, unscrew front frame... We remove the matrix itself and filters, snap off the side mounts.

We connect the power and hold down a few keys to enter service menu... This will keep the lamps on for a while.

The figure below shows that after turning on the lamps, the 5th from the top turned out to be inoperative. Disconnect it and replace it with a new one - now all the lamps are on when checking.

The assembly takes place in the reverse order.

After that, you need to turn on the TV receiver and enter the service menu for reset lamp error counter... If this is not done, the device will not work. Entering the menu, you need to find the corresponding line and reset by selecting ok. Now the repair of the LCD TV set is finished. Tests show that the unit is operating normally.

Thus, you can repair the Philips and LG TV with your own hands, and other LCD panels, as well as devices with LED backlight (LED). Owners of the latter type of devices should read the article on repairing LED backlighting, where the whole process is described in detail using the example of an LG TV.

Among the typical and simple reasons that the TV set does not turn on, there may be a remote control or a lack of signal from the antenna cable.

If the TV does not turn on with the remote control, first, you need to make sure the batteries are good. If they are shrunken, replace them. Often the TV set cannot turn on due to contamination of contacts under the buttons. To do this, you can disassemble it yourself, and clean the contacts with a soft cloth from accumulated dirt. If your remote control has been dropped, it is possible damage to the quartz emitter... In this case, it must be replaced. Well, if you filled the remote control with water or some other liquid, and it did not work after disassembling and drying, then it will have to be replaced with a new one.

You can learn more about fixing the remote control in the following video or article.

When repairing TVs LG, Sharp with LCD, Rubin, Horizon with the same screens, a situation often arises when it does not turn on when the device is in good working order. It turns out that the reason may be no TV signal in the antenna cable. This happens due to the operation of the noise suppression protection (in Rubin TVs, they began to install it not so long ago), and the unit goes into standby mode. Therefore, if you find your TV set inoperative, you should not panic, but you need to check the presence of a signal from the transmitting station.

In conclusion, we can say that when you decide to repair a TV set yourself, you should soberly assess your abilities and knowledge in this matter. If you do not feel confident, then it is better to entrust this matter to a telemaster, especially since nobody canceled 220 V, and ignorance of basic safety rules can entail unpleasant consequences.