DIY tennis table repair

In detail: do-it-yourself tennis table repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Many people love to play table tennis, but not everyone does. First of all, the point is in expensive equipment. After all, tennis tables from world manufacturers are very expensive, and not every ordinary person can afford such a pleasure. But if you really want to run the ball with a racket, why not think about how to make a tennis table with your own hands? Moreover, this is not such a terrible business.

Don't grab the tools right away. You should start with very simple things. First of all, look around and choose a place where the future structure will be placed. It should be chosen based on the type of tennis table, which can be either stationary or easily assembled.

A stationary table cannot be disassembled; a separate room must be built for it. Only then will it not deteriorate from the bad weather and the sun, and playing at such a table will be enjoyable. But not every summer resident can afford to give extra meters for a playing place, therefore, more often than not, they choose easy-prefabricated tennis tables.

A comfortable do-it-yourself tennis table should be made on a hard surface, have a perfectly flat surface and free space must be provided around it. those who have already played table tennis know that players periodically run away from the table for a short distance.

Advice: the ideal size of the area allocated for playing table tennis is a 5x8 m area. Moreover, the sun should not be blinded, there should be no gusts of wind, there should be no biting insects (well, this is probably not realistic in the country).

Video (click to play).

Unlike some other objects, the size of which can be increased or decreased, the tennis table must always meet the standards, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient to play:

This is what a drawing of a standard tennis table looks like.

Of course, all the parameters of a do-it-yourself tennis table should be reflected clearly and understandably. In addition to the standard dimensions of the table itself, they also indicate the parameters of the grid installed in the future, as in this figure.

Having decided on the dimensions, let's turn our attention to the material and tools that will be needed for successful work. We will proceed from the above indicated dimensions of the tennis table with our own hands to make. Thus, we need:

Plywood, preferably sanded (2 sheets, 1525 × 1525 mm, thickness 12 mm).
Edged timber (5 pieces, 50 × 50 × 3000 mm).
Metal leg brackets - 4 pcs.
Self-tapping screws (5 × 89 - 38 pieces; 3.5 × 49 - 45 pieces).
4 bolts for connecting brackets with legs.
Antiseptic for the treatment of wooden surfaces.
Wood putty and spray paint in green and white.
Hacksaw.
Drill.
Welding machine.
Primer and paint tools.

The list was made, the tools and material were prepared, now you can proceed directly to how to create a table for tennis with your own hands.

Since our tennis table must be easy to assemble and disassemble, then conditions must be created for this, and specifically - it is necessary to cut the blanks of metal fasteners that can be easily disassembled and assembled.

It is not difficult to prepare plywood for the surface, since the sheets on sale correspond to our size.

Tip: Since plywood is sold in the correct width, it only needs to be adjusted in length. To do this, measure 15.5 cm from each sheet and cut off the excess. This will ensure that the plywood joints are located exactly under the mesh.

Now it remains to cut the timber, and then treat it with an antiseptic.Such processing will increase the service life of the product and a do-it-yourself table tennis table will last for a long time. While the timber is drying, we cook the brackets for fastening and make holes in them for self-tapping screws.

We mark the timber and assemble, using self-tapping screws, a support structure for the table. To strengthen the frame, we fasten metal brackets to the corners, the task of which is to keep the corners in one state.
Try on the legs for the mountings and, if necessary, remove the excess wood. It is imperative that the leg and the mounting slot match exactly. In order not to confuse them in the future, it is better to number the details.
Now we fasten the timber installed in the nests to the bracket. For greater strength, we use bolts and do everything very carefully and accurately. Having screwed on all four beams, we get a frame, which will require further work.
We make markings on the tabletop, try on and, using self-tapping screws, attach it to the finished frame. To do this, we drill holes, attach the cover to the frame and twist it gently. Of course, you can screw in the self-tapping screws from the back side, you just need to correctly calculate their length. Otherwise, it will not be possible to make a folding tennis table with your own hands, but to spoil it, since the ends of the screws will stick out on the surface and interfere with the game.
The last stage of our work in the process of how to make a tennis table with our own hands is painting. To begin with, the surface of the countertop must be prepared for painting, for which it must be blown with a strong stream of air. It is easy to do this with a compressor. If it is absent, the tabletop must be carefully wiped and wiped with a cloth of a fairly rigid structure. After all the actions, apply a layer of putty to the surface and wait until it dries well.

The do-it-yourself tabletop on the outdoor tennis table is painted in two layers: cover it with the first layer - wait for it to dry completely. We cover with a second layer and also wait for it to dry well. Now, with the help of an aerosol can, we apply the markings, install the grid and have made a table tennis table with our own hands, you can start using it.

Tip: when making a tennis table, calculate the length of the beams yourself, which you will lay so that they are shorter than the length of the playing surface, in addition, their section should prevent deformation of the tabletop.

Using the information, you will quickly make a tennis table for the street with your own hands, which will indescribably please your loved ones and significantly save your family budget. Well, if you still have questions about how to make a tennis table with your own hands, the video will give additional explanations.

Trust the professionals of the TENNIS # 1 hypermarket with over 15 years of experience to get your tennis table back into working order.

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Whether your tennis table needs a refurbishment or an easy customization, one of our craftsmen is ready to help you with your table in no time. In addition to any repairs, each visit is accompanied by a complete set-up to ensure that the device is functioning properly. Our experience shows that regular preventative maintenance of your tennis table can extend its life and reduce the likelihood of costly repairs.

Maintenance of the tennis table is carried out by a certified specialist of the TENNIS No.1 hypermarket. Each of the craftsmen is trained to work with different types of tennis tables. Our technical staff has an average of 3 years of experience in the tennis table repair industry, making our hypermarket the most reliable and experienced provider of tennis table repair and maintenance services.

Maintenance of tennis tables includes:

Checking and adjusting the tennis table frame

DIY tennis table

Table tennis is a fairly widespread sport in the world; the popularity of the game is great among teenagers and even people who are well over forty. When playing tennis, a person's muscles are loaded proportionally and synchronously. In relation to the “big brother” tennis, table tennis does not require a large area and serious sports equipment. In every courtyard or school playground there is a tennis table and there, in the summer, young people gather. The structure of the wooden tennis table fits perfectly into the home interior. Many heads of office structures support the direction of a physically healthy team, install tennis tables in their offices during lunch breaks. Even a teenager can make a tennis table if he really wants to play table tennis with his friends and parents.

For this you will need:

Legs 8 pcs. from a wooden bar 30x40 mm, length 720 mm;
Longitudinal bar 4 pcs. from a wooden bar 30x4 mm, length 360 mm;
Side board 2 pcs. Board 20x200 mm, length 500 mm;
Cover strip 2 pcs. from a wooden bar 30x40 mm, length 900 mm;
Fixation synchronizer 8 pcs. from a wooden bar 30x40 mm, length 100 mm;
Articulated platform 8 pcs. from a wooden board, 20 mm thick, 80x30 mm;
Thin board bracket 16 pcs. Fiberboard 10 mm;
Platform eyelet 16 pcs. Fiberboard 10 mm;
Wing nut bolt 8 pcs. bolt М8;
Table top 2 pcs. Chipboard 20 mm thick with a section of 1522 x 1370 mm.

Manufacturing process.

First stage.
Support legs for the table are constructions with four modules of U-shaped parts. One module includes two legs from a bar measuring 40 × 30 mm and a height of 700 mm, interconnected by a longitudinal bar along a length of 1360 mm. In the upper part of the legs, thin-plank brackets are cut in and mounted. A hole of size R30 is drilled in each thin-plank bracket. The center of the table support is two connected modules, which are located in the middle of the structure. They are connected to each other by two side boards measuring 500x200x20 mm and create a powerful “stiffening rib”. The other two modules are located in opposite directions from the sides of the tabletop. They are connected to the main modules with overhead strips from a bar. Synchronizers of fixation made of small blocks are installed on both edges of the strips. And to connect the secondary modules with the main modules, the indicated strips are used in the wound, by the overhead method on the longitudinal bars that fasten the legs of each module.

Second phase.
The tabletop can be made of two pieces of fiberboard of the same size, with a section of 1522x1370 mm. The front side of the fiberboard must be covered with plastic. Well, if there is no plastic on the countertop, open the top side with linseed oil (give time to dry) and then cover with several layers of oil paint (preferably green). White paint is used for marking on the countertop. It is applied to the pre-made marks with a pencil under the rail.

Stage three.
The technology for installing the bracket-hinge platform is as follows. An R30 hole is drilled into each pivot plate bracket. On the opposite side of the playing field, platforms are installed, four pieces per one half of the fiberboard, respectively, in the size of coincidences with a thin-board bracket, which are installed on the legs of the fundamental supports. Using epoxy resin or screws (it is necessary to ensure that the screws are of the appropriate size and do not go through the tabletop), the hinge bracket is attached with carpentry glue.

Fourth stage.
After the glue dries, the playing field is installed in parts on the foundation supports, by connecting the lugs of the bracket-hinge platform with thin-plank brackets, in the previously made holes, fasten with bolts or wing nuts. After installing the countertops, the overhead strips are fixed to the longitudinal bars. Once the assembly is complete, you can stretch the net to play.
In a suburban area.

A comfortable place for a tennis table is in the backyard of a suburban area, there is enough space for various games and, in particular, for tennis parties. It would not be bad if the sports equipment was in a secluded place under a canopy (terrace, closed patio, large gazebo). Playing table tennis is always a pleasant pastime.

Make a tennis table for yourself and you can always play ping-pong in the fresh air. An all-weather tennis table is easy enough to make according to the instructions that we have prepared for you. Such a table does not need to be given much attention, and affordable and inexpensive materials will be needed to make it.

According to the Olympic regulations, the optimal table dimensions are 2740x1525 mm. It is advisable to install the table for the game stationary and carefully adjust the level. Table height - 760 mm from the floor (ground).

Such a table will be quite large and there is really a lot of space for it (taking into account the obligatory 1.5-2 m on each side). When making a table for children, for example, you can deviate from the recommended dimensions to the smaller side, in the end, it is not the final size that is important. Much more important is the proportion of the table - the ratio of length to width should be 9: 5. In addition, it is very important to apply the markings correctly. It should provide a 20 mm perimeter edging and divide the table longitudinally into two halves with a 3 mm strip for playing in pairs. Marking color - white or light contrasting with the background of the table.

For the table to be truly all-weather, the material must calmly survive both low temperatures and heat, high humidity and wetness. In this regard, only moisture-resistant film faced birch plywood can compete with plastic. It is preferable to use it, abandoning chipboard or MDF. The thickness must be at least 16 mm, the color must be dark blue or green.

The overall dimensions of the countertop for the base material should be 2740x1525 mm. A whole sheet for the entire tabletop is quite difficult to transport, so it is better to take two sheets of a standard size 1525x1525 mm as a basis. Cutting of the material can be ordered upon purchase, or the sheets can be cut with a circular saw or jigsaw to a size of 1370x1525 mm each sheet. For the rigidity of the table top and the union of the two halves, a 40x50 mm beam is required.

To assemble the table legs, you will need a 20x40x4 mm profile pipe 6 m long and a 16 m steel corner with equal 20 mm shelves with a thickness of at least 3 mm. To give the countertop exceptional resistance to moisture, its edges must be edged with an angular aluminum profile 20x20x1.2 mm; you will need 280 and 160 cm pieces of it - two pieces each.

The tennis table must be very stable. Its base, a metal frame, must be made to last.

Profile pipe: 4 pieces of 1.5 m.
Angle steel: 4 x 1 m and 4 x 2 m.
Divide the rest of the corner into 8 pieces of 0.5 meters.

We place two pipe sections in parallel and weld them together with two two-meter crossbeams made of angle steel. The first is installed 20 cm from the upper edge of the leg, the second - 70 cm below the first.

First, we assemble the frame on millimeter tacks, align the diagonals of the rectangle formed inside and only then weld the seams tightly. The second pair of legs is assembled in the same way.

At the place where the table is installed, you need to mark out a rectangle of 150x100 cm with pegs and lacing.With an indent of 10 cm to each side of the lace, the sod is removed and a small trench is dug out with a bayonet depth or a little more, the bottom must be carefully cleaned. At the corners of the trench, you need to dig four pits, 75–80 cm deep and 50 cm wide, so that the center falls exactly on the marking peg.

Pour 10-15 cm of dry sand into each pit and stick the legs so that the upper ends are 80 cm above the ground.Align the legs horizontally using a long rule and a slatted level, the process will be more convenient if you place the broken brick under the lower rungs. Connect the pairs of legs together with 1.5-meter pieces of the corner, offset the attachment points by welding 50–60 mm below the longitudinal bars. After assembling the base frame, you will need to get it out of the pits, from this moment you cannot do without the help of a partner.

At 100 mm from the bottom end of the legs from 50 cm of corner pieces, we weld cross-shaped embeds that will hold the table in the ground. Each welding seam on the product must be cleaned with an angle grinder from slag, if necessary, more metal must be welded on top. After the pipe is degreased with acetone and covered with a phosphating primer, then two layers of enamel of any type follow.

After drying, the frame is set in place, but now, to level it, you need to slightly sink the legs into the sand with light blows on their upper ends to a level of 75 cm from the ground. After that, the pits are filled with broken brick mixed with soil and spilled with a bucket of water every 25 cm.

Once the legs are in place, bring the upper ends to the level. Laying a profile with a bubble level on the legs in pairs, the horizontal plane is checked. If necessary, the length of the legs is adjusted, grinding off the excess with an angle grinder.

On top of each leg, it is necessary to weld a square or triangular plate made of sheet steel with a thickness of 2 mm or more. The right angle plate aligns with the outer corner of each support so that the main body faces the inside of the table.

To begin with, a frame is assembled from a 40x50 mm bar. It is better to take the actual dimensions at the outer corners of the already installed supports from the profile pipe. If the base is made without deviations, then the dimensions of the frame along the inner perimeter should correspond to 2080x1040 mm. You will need two beams 2160 mm long and three 1120 mm long. It is advisable to dock the beams with a half-wood pad or spike connection. The frame is assembled rectangular with a crossbar in the middle.

Instead of a crossbar, which will fall on the joint of two halves of the tabletop, you can use the remaining strips of plywood in one layer or folded in half. If the halves of the table are joined with strips of plywood, then it is advisable to put them on glue and then additionally screw them in with screws along the entire length, in two rows. To align the tabletop with the frame, the plywood strips are cut into three parts, the central part must fall between the long sides of the frame, and the short ones on the outside, not reaching the edge of the tabletop, 7–10 cm, so as not to interfere with the installation of the mesh.

The frame and tabletop halves are connected together using metal furniture corners and screws. The corners are distributed evenly along the inner and outer perimeter of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm.

The most vulnerable place of the countertop is the ends, they should be reliably protected. Simple painting or pasting with end tape will last 2-3 years, then chips and swellings will appear. Therefore, it is better to surround the table with an aluminum corner: we precisely cut the parts according to the final dimensions of the table: 1525 and 2740 mm, we wash it down at 45 ° for the ends converging at the corners. We make holes in the centers of both shelves with a staggered offset of 3 mm, the step in each row is 60 cm.

At the bottom, at the ends of the countertop, you need to chamfer 2.5–3 mm and apply silicone hot melt glue to the edge, use white plastic rods. The assistant should heat the applied glue with a hair dryer until the end of the plywood is completely covered with it, then the aluminum corner is pressed tightly until protruding excess appears. Pay special attention to filling the corners.

Drill the plywood with a 3mm drill through the holes in the corner.
Countersink the metal 7 mm.
Reinforce the edging with 12 mm flat head screws.

From the front side, the excess glue is cut off with a sectional knife.The corner will protrude 2–3 mm above the table top, against this side you need to abut the hacksaw blade at an angle and stretch it with an effort 5–7 times along its entire length. Along this furrow, the edge is broken off with pliers, then the butt is brought with an abrasive bar to obtain a 2 mm chamfer.

Turning the table over, stick masking tape on the front side of the strip of masking tape, separating the marking lines with them according to the exact dimensions, recall: 3 mm central centerline and 20 mm along the perimeter of the table. It is better to glue over the free areas for reinsurance with paper and tape. In open places, remove the gloss with a zero-grade sandpaper, remove dust and grease, apply white paint. At the ends, we especially diligently paint over all the places where the screws are screwed. After drying, the table must be turned over and its entire seamy side must be opened with enamel, especially carefully paint the corners and ends of the ribs. The frame is also painted on all sides.

The table top can now be placed on legs and the levels can be checked accurately. The tabletop can be attached to the legs in two ways:

In each of the four plates on the legs, three holes are drilled for the screws that secure the tabletop.
In the beams in the corners, it is enough to drill through holes with a diameter of 10–12 mm as close as possible to the table top so that the drill goes right next to the profile tube and under the base plate. In this case, the worktop will be fixed by rods of reinforcement or wooden pins inserted into the holes.

The second option will allow, if necessary, to remove the countertop without unnecessary problems, for example, for storage indoors in winter.

As a conclusion, we suggest you make a pair of tennis rackets on your own. To do this, we apply the markings on a sheet of 4–6 mm plywood:

We draw a rectangle 20x160 mm.
On the wide sides, add two semicircles with a radius of 80 mm.
From the center of the figure, set aside a rectangle 35x180 mm towards one of the circles.

We make a small pairing at the base of the handle and cut out the blank with a jigsaw. On the handle we try on two strips of solid wood 6–7 mm thick, 35 mm wide and 100–110 mm long. We put them on PVA and squeeze them with clamps, then we process the handle and sawn ends of the racket with an emery cloth until the chips are eliminated and an ergonomic shape is given.

Silicone mats (made from kitchen utensils) or cork can be used as a shock absorber. In the first case, the same hot glue is used for fastening, in the second, concentrated PVA can be dispensed with. First, we put glue on the racket, then lay it on the edge of the sheet, press and cut along the edge of the plywood after drying.

Now all that remains is to secure the net and you can play.

How to make a tennis table: dimensional drawings, step-by-step instructions, photos and

Among the many wonderful opportunities that a private house or summer cottage can give, it is a sin not to pay attention to ways to actively promote health.

For example, table tennis, also known as ping-pong.

If earlier this game was available rather to the elite, now everything is in our hands, and by acquiring just a tennis table, we can have a beneficial effect on many aspects of our own health. Namely:

Physical health
- vision - quickly changing the focus of the eyes to a flying ball is an extremely useful exercise, including relieving fatigue from working at a computer;
- getting rid of excess weight - from seven to ten kilocalories of energy are burned per minute;
- flexibility - develops and maintains high joint mobility;
- agility - the accuracy of fast movements;
- speed of reaction - to develop this quality, ping-pong is used by famous boxers;
- endurance, strengthening the cardiovascular system, training the vestibular apparatus - the list goes on;
- Psychological health
  - getting rid of chronic fatigue syndrome - movement and positive emotions relieve stress and tension like nothing else;
  - concentration of attention, self-control, analytical thinking ... enough to understand: this is great!

And it's no less great to realize that it is not at all necessary to purchase an expensive table from a well-known company. It is quite capable of making it yourself, with your own hands, and it will bring almost more joy. Tempting? Then it's time to dive into the topic!

According to the international standard, the tennis table is 2740 mm long and 1525 mm wide. The standard height of the table's playing surface is 760 mm from the floor (ground).

However, it is worth noting that in practice other sizes are sometimes used, it all depends on the goals pursued and the conditions available.

So, the height of the table for schoolchildren can be lowered to 700, 680 or 600 mm. The same applies to dimensions - there are mini-tables on sale 2440 x 1220 mm and even 110 x 61 mm.

The thickness of the table top for amateur tennis is usually 16-19 mm, for professional tennis 25-28 mm. For clubs and competitions, the standard is 22 mm.

Interesting fact: Nowadays, table tennis and ping-pong are not the same thing. Modern ping-pong masters use rackets covered with ... sandpaper.

The material for the manufacture of the countertop is not strictly specified in the standard, only the rebound from it of a standard ball falling from a height of 30 cm is regulated.It must be at least 23 cm.

In practice, wood-based sheet materials (plywood, chipboard, OSB) are quite consistent with this requirement.

Of the most affordable, you can consider plywood and chipboard (chipboard). Let's briefly consider their main advantages:

Sizes of sheets. On sale, usually the most common are plywood sheets with dimensions:
- 1525 x 1525 mm;
- 1525 x 1300 mm;
- 1525 x 1475 mm;
- 1475 x 1474 mm.
They are the best fit for making a table top from two halves, that is, if you intend to make a folding tennis table with your own hands. In this case, you will need two sheets, which will need to be cut to size on one side only;
The surface quality is suitable without additional processing. The only advice is that it is better to choose sheets in which one surface is polished (there is a “Ш1” designation in the marking) of grades I and II;
Moisture resistance. If an option is planned mainly for the street, then you can use moisture-resistant plywood (FSF, FB brands), as well as laminated.

Important: laminated plywood is much more expensive, but such a table will serve for a long time, despite any weather.

Chipboard (particle board)

Sizes of sheets. The nominal dimensions of chipboard are described in GOST 10632-2007, and it makes no sense to list them all here. In our case, the most interesting will be sheets of the following sizes:
- 2750 x 1830 mm;
- 2750 x 1750 mm;
- 2750 x 1500 mm.
The availability of sheets of specific sizes on sale strongly depends on the region, however, it is obvious that a sheet of 2750 x 1500 mm is an almost finished one-piece tabletop, if it is possible to place the table permanently and permanently.
The surface quality is generally acceptable, but depends on the specific manufacturer, you need to choose carefully. However, a laminated sheet of green or blue color and, although somewhat more expensive, eliminates the need for painting and gives a finished surface;
Weight. Chipboard sheets of the required thickness (from 16 mm) are quite massive, which can be considered an advantage in the case of making a solid one-piece stable table.

Please note: a slight deviation from the standard in the dimensions of the tabletop can be completely neglected if there is no special tool for making a long and even cut at home. On the other hand, serious sellers of this material usually offer related cutting and trimming services.

The underframe can be made of metal or wood. The easiest way to make a wooden base, and if the tabletop is also made of wood material, the set of tools for making them will be the same.

Please note: it is better to take planed lumber, although you can cut it yourself.

So, with the materials we figured out, you can proceed to the main thing - how to make a tennis table yourself at home. For example, let's take this option:

In order to make a table tennis table with your own hands, you need to prepare the following materials:

board 25 x 100, length 1050 mm - 6 pcs.;
board 30 x 100, length 2200 mm - 2 pcs.;
timber 50 x 50, length 750 mm (for legs) - 6 pcs.;
bar 30 x 50, length 850 mm (for the underframe) - 4 pcs.;
adjustable furniture leg - 4 pcs .;
studs or bolts М8, length 120–125 mm - 12 pcs .;
nuts and washers М8 - 24 sets;
wood screws;
sandpaper.

You will also need tools:

Drawings and instructions for making a sewing machine table can be found here.

Our tennis table consists of several assembly units, the drawings and dimensions of which are shown below:

Step 1. Prepare the canvases of the countertop and make the parts according to the drawings.
Adjust the grooves of the longitudinal bar (section 50 x 100 mm) so that they fit into the mating grooves of the support legs with some effort.

Step 2. Assemble the support legs (3 pcs.):

screw furniture legs with adjustment to the legs for the legs (section 50 x 50 mm);

fasten the legs and boards with studs and nuts.

Step 3. Assemble the frame by inserting the longitudinal beams from above into the grooves of the legs.

Step 5. Install the tabletop into the assembled frame. Then fix the position of the tabletop relative to the longitudinal bars in any convenient way. This can be done, for example, with self-tapping screws, or you can drill the longitudinal bars themselves and the bars 30 x 50 in place and use the bolts.

You will find a detailed description of how to make a picnic table yourself in this article.

Statistics show that more than 70% of people are infected to one degree or another with parasites, in order to remove them you need to drink in the morning ...

When deciding to play table tennis, remember: consulting a doctor is never superfluous, but those who have problems with the spine (for example, scoliosis) should definitely consult!

Table tennis is contraindicated for people suffering from hypertension, certain eye diseases (problems with the retina and fundus).

It is not recommended to play when the body is weakened by a recent viral disease, as well as during an exacerbation of chronic diseases.

In authority maximace

maximace -85
Left 2,574 messages since Apr 30, 2005
FR: 117054
July 9, 2014 at 01:28 PM

I'm going to make a table tennis table. Street.

Table size 2.74x1.525. Usually they are made of 2 halves, you can, of course, from a single piece, but this can no longer be collected / removed and the material is more difficult to find.

The main problem with finding material for the countertop. I can't find the right size in Petrozavodsk. For sale or plywood FC (not very for the street) 1.525x1.525 or FSF (for the street) 1.22x2.44 (the size does not fit - narrow). Where to buy a saw?
If you just put fiberboard, then, I'm afraid it will swell on the street. We need a moisture resistant fiberboard. You will find such a fig too.
There are still quality problems with plywood, so that there is a flat surface (no defects). for construction plywood, this is not very relevant, but it is this one that is mainly sold.

Has anyone made the table themselves? What materials did you use for the countertop? Advise a company where you can buy / order a worktop of the required size
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You can still play on the table with a book