In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Opel Astra n heat exchanger from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The instructions for replacing the heat exchanger gaskets are, in principle, the same for all GM engines of the A / Z16 / 18XER / LET series.
Below is: the essence of the problem, a few photos of the process on the Zafira Z18XER, instructions with tightening torques on the Z18XER and at the end of the spare parts number.
The problem of GM engines of the XER / LET series (A16LET, Z18XER, etc.) common to Opel, Chevrolet is oil leakage through the heat exchanger gasket (aka the engine oil cooler) / or oil getting into the antifreeze through the heat exchanger.
The heat exchanger is located in a hard-to-reach place, behind the exhaust manifold, therefore, if you do not pay attention to the sweating of oil or the appearance of smudges, you may not notice it in time. But as soon as the oil starts to flow in full and falls on the exhaust manifold, this fragrant smell of burning will immediately notify you of a malfunction.
Antifreeze and oil pass through the heat exchanger. The assembly is heavily overloaded with many gaskets and tubes, the seals of which are made of rubber.
Over time, rubber loses its properties and "dubs". The seals lose their tightness and oil starts to flow through the cylinder block, or get into antifreeze, because the pressure in the lubrication system (oil pressure) is higher than the pressure in the cooling system (antifreeze).
We had a Zafira X18XER, the instructions were taken from the CRUZE Z18XER, no different. One caveat: somewhere it was written that it is necessary to remove the air conditioning compressor on the Zafira. They did nothing of the kind, they just removed the cooling fan. It is better to do it right away, because with a fan, it is problematic to even remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Video (click to play).
1. Remove the cooling fan, oil dipstick.
2. Drain the coolant. Radiator plug. In the direction of movement of the car from the bottom right, from the end of the radiator.
3. Disconnect the lambda block, exhaust manifold heat shield.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold spacer (6)
4. Nuts securing the catalytic converter to the flexible exhaust pipe (1)
When assembling, tighten to 22 Nm
5. Nuts securing the catalytic converter to the cylinder head (8)
When assembling, tighten 20 Nm
6. Remove the 2 bolts (1) from the engine oil cooler outlet pipe. Remove the engine oil cooler outlet pipe (2).
7. Remove the 2 bolts from the engine oil cooler inlet pipe (4).
8. Dismantle the engine oil cooler inlet pipe (3).
9. Remove the 5 bolts (2) of the engine oil cooler housing.
When assembling, tighten 25 Nm
10. Remove the engine oil cooler housing (1).
11. Remove the 6 engine oil cooler bolts (2) and remove the engine oil cooler (1) from the radiator housing.
12. We wash everything, change all gaskets, assemble in reverse order.
13. If desired or necessary, change the oil, filter, flush the cooling system, change the antifreeze.
Watch an interesting video on this topic
06/10/2016 21:11 2016-06-10T18: 11: 50.000Z
We are changing the oil cooler gaskets for the Opel Astra H 1.8 Ecotec Z18XER. We flush the cooling system and change the antifreeze.
For advertising and cooperation, please contact: and
Opel Astra H - Replacing Heat Exchanger Gaskets
Video (click to play).
There is such a contraption at the Z18XER (Z16XER) - a heat exchanger in which the engine oil is cooled (heated) with antifreeze. Installed on the oil filter housing under the exhaust manifold. Assembled on gaskets, which become tanned / exfoliated / softened over the years and begin to flow. I was comprehended at 86000 km and 8 years. In advanced cases, the oil gets into the antifreeze, the cooling system becomes heavily contaminated, then the thermostat and pipes die. The consequences are sad ...
Knowing this, I regularly checked the condition of the antifreeze in the expansion tank and the presence of leaks / wetting on the engine in the place of the heat exchanger. The reservoir was always clean, but last winter it began to get wet on the engine under the manifold. I decided not to delay, bought a full set of all gaskets (only the original! - who does not want to climb there again after six months) and related materials (flushing the cooling system, distilled water, flushing oil, new oil, new antifreeze, sealant, copper grease, gasoline, diesel fuel, rags, brushes / brushes, sponge with an abrasive layer, wd40). It turned out for all 5 thousand rubles. with a penny. I was lucky with gaskets - I managed to get them in early January, and literally a week later their prices increased 1.5-2 times and the delivery time increased to 1-2 months!
Looking ahead, I will say that the same basic "curly" gasket 55354071 had just begun to decompose, the mixing of liquids inside the system had not yet happened, and antifreeze was oozing out - those wet were not oily! Those. my case is easy, but it happens much worse when the gaskets are passed inside the heat exchanger and then everything is clean on the engine, but there are oil droplets in the expansion tank, then mucus, porridge ...
The part of the gasket that comes in contact with antifreeze has softened and cracked, and the oil part is in good condition (like all the other 8 gaskets, but I changed everything for new ones!). Why is that?
There are suggestions that this is the original GM antifreeze! For some reason it is produced by a separate brand only for GM (and the antifreeze concentrate is made by one manufacturer BASF and for GM they have an "exclusive" Glysantin G34) and contains components that are aggressive for the gasket material. More details here:
You need a tool, a normal set of keys, heads, torx and conventional bits, extension cords, ratchets - don't even start without it!
I will say right away - "the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing!" - all the "iron" work is simple, like a children's designer - the keys from the scanty E8 to the head by 13. More fuss with flushing the cooling system (soaps 4 times) ... .Pull out / push back the dipstick tube. The rest is VERY simple, fear not! But painstakingly and scrupulously! Disassemble - rinse / clean - assemble.
- Drain the oil - filled in flushing oil. I drained the antifreeze (clean as a tear, but still decided to wash the system!) - I filled in distilled water with wynns rinsing.
- At idle until the thermostat opens and the fan operates.
- Drained water - refilled with distilled water with wynns rinsing.
-At idle until the thermostat opens and the fan operates.
- Drained the flushing oil, drained the water from the wynns.
- Spattered nuts (3pcs) of the intake pipe wd40
In the intervals, while the slurry / rattled on the XX - began to disassemble.
Bainki went. And all night the leftovers merged drop by drop ...
On Saturday morning, I started disassembling: we unscrew the intake pipe (it was easy!), Remove the radiator grill, the cover over the radiators (this is where the hood lock is), the air intake, the radiator fan, the probe tube (it's hard for me!), The collector heat shield (hemorrhagic!) , manifold, oil filter housing. We disassemble, clean, wash, three, rinse, blow with compressed air, dry, put new gaskets. Putting it up in reverse order. We are also installing new metal gaskets for the collector and inlet pipe.
We fill in oil, and I decided to rinse the cooling system again, now from the wynns rinsing itself - a lot of foam, washed twice with distilled water. We observe - there are no leaks, they suddenly collected crookedly. Then I poured 1.5 liters of Glysantin G30 concentrate with distilled water 1 to 3 - I will go in the summer, in the fall I will change it again in a normal concentration of 1: 1.
What an ode! Outrages: 1. the design of the heat exchanger on a "curly" gasket 2. The location of the heat exchanger. Disassemble half of the muzzle to replace 1 rubber band. No good!
I will answer the questions. Sorry for the photo - as best I could, not before ...
I received the whole set of these gaskets, I wonder, but there is such a proprietary set that would not be separate.
now you need to make up your mind and change everything. what other recommendations can there be?
Well, I coped with the task of replacing the heat exchanger gaskets, I counted on it in three hours, but spent six hours, of course, at the same time washed the radiators, the dirt was notable, I fiddled with removing the thermal protection of the collector, she stubbornly did not want to climb out, because the pipe from the air conditioner compressor interferes, also due to the lack of a special tool for removing the rings of the clamps from the hose that goes from the thermostat to the radiator, I had to pretty much strain my engineering thought how to remove it, and the most flush, this is when I collected everything and put protection, I slammed it the hood to roll the car out of the garage, and and and and the hood does not open I forgot to put the cable in the loop of the lock, I will not tell here how I opened it. conclusion, about about 100 thousand km of gaskets on the oil channels hardened and dried out, so the oil began to ooze on the antifreeze, the rings swelled a little and sat very well and tightly.
A clear instruction on how to replace the heat exchanger gaskets in an Opel Astra H. On these machines, this is a fairly common problem when the heat exchanger gaskets begin to leak, since the heat exchanger itself is located behind the exhaust manifold, due to the temperature difference, the gaskets very often become tanned. In this case, an emulsion forms on the cover of the expansion tank, someone may say that this is due to the cylinder head gasket, but then the tank would constantly inflate, since we do not have this, then the problem is in the heat exchanger. At the moment, we will get oil into the cooling system, there is a possibility that with such a malfunction, oil will soon begin to flow from the heat exchanger itself, but we did not wait for this and began to replace the gaskets.
First of all, we drain the antifreeze, then remove the heat shield (insulating casing), the oil dipstick, and the cooling fan. From underneath, unscrew the catalyst from the intake pipe. We detach the lambda probe. In order not to remove the air conditioner compressor, and this entails the removal of the belt, we will bend the heat shield, then we will align it. We unscrew the exhaust manifold 9 nuts by 10. Remove the old gasket and unscrew the heat exchanger, removing it. All gaskets can be disassembled and replaced:
When reassembling, use a torque wrench, observing the correct tightening torque, if you do not have one, do not pull too hard.
Video of replacing the heat exchanger gaskets in the Opel Astra H:
Backup video how to replace the heat exchanger gaskets in the Opel Astra H:
06/10/2016 21:11 2016-06-10T18: 11: 50.000Z
We are changing the oil cooler gaskets for the Opel Astra H 1.8 Ecotec Z18XER. We flush the cooling system and change the antifreeze.
For advertising and cooperation, please contact: and
Opel Astra H - Replacing Heat Exchanger Gaskets
The malfunction described below is specific to vehicles with a diesel power system. Sometimes the owners, during the daily technical inspection, notice the appearance of oily stains in the expansion tank of the car, the formation of an emulsion on the surface of the tank cap. This indicates a defect in the heat exchanger gasket.
At the initial stage of the breakdown, the leakage is insignificant, but with each trip it only increases, which is confirmed by the increase in oily stains. In critical phases, the driver notices an increased engine temperature that cannot be reduced, as well as a low level of engine oil in the sump.
It is undesirable to eliminate the breakdown on your own, since we are talking about the operability of two systems at once: oil and cooling. Even the smallest error during installation leads to negative consequences. To reduce the risk of damage to a minimum - entrust this business to the workshop professionals, in addition, you will receive a quality guarantee for the work performed.
The workshop provides a wide range of services for the repair of technical equipment of various brands and modifications, including the Opel Astra of the H series. The most demanded works are related to the current repairs, replacement of consumables, namely:
replacement of engine and hydraulic oils;
replacement of oil and fuel filters;
diagnostics of the cooling system, replacement of heat exchanger gaskets;
prevention of a heat exchanger for diesel engines;
checking for errors in the operation of the power unit.
In addition to the listed minor repairs, we eliminate breakdowns associated with the operation of the engine, transmission, chassis, front and rear suspension, steering system. As part of an individual order, we carry out work on the installation of non-standard equipment on cars, treatment of the body with an anti-corrosion base, localize rust and corrosion.
The masters of our service perform work efficiently and quickly thanks to their many years of experience and skills in auto repair. Equipping the workshop with modern diagnostic equipment increases the quality and speeds up the process of prevention of various brands of cars, the waiting time is significantly reduced. Thanks to a professional approach to the elimination of breakdowns, orders of any complexity are successfully completed.
Typical symptoms of a malfunction are as follows:
the engine temperature is constantly high, for no actual reason;
the consistency of the engine oil is too liquid, there is no viscosity;
an oily emulsion forms on the inside of the expansion tank cap;
antifreeze in the cooling system contains particles of engine oil;
the engine oil level in the system is low;
the center console of instruments may periodically display a cooling system error.
A breakdown is characterized by several signs at the same time. It even simplifies the diagnostic process and helps the wizard to speed up the work.
Common causes of breakdowns are as follows:
hole, defect in the heat exchanger gasket;
damage to the heat exchanger body;
overheating in the cooling system, which caused deformation;
overheating of engine oil;
increased pressure in the engine created by the breakdown of another unit;
the factor of marriage in manufacturing, the process technology is violated;
poor-quality installation or poor-quality gasket;
violation of the rules for operating a technical device by the owner of the car.
Diagnostics is carried out in the engine compartment; it is not necessary to use a lifting mechanism or an inspection hole. The main attention of the master during the inspection will be focused on identifying leaks from under the heat exchanger housing. It is located at the bottom of the engine, under the exhaust manifold.
An important step is to eliminate oil leakage into the cooling system. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the cap of the expander reservoir and inspect its inner part. The presence of an emulsion will confirm the worst assumption. This will be confirmed by oily stains in the antifreeze.
This completes the diagnostics, since the above methods are sufficient to conclude the master about the need to replace the Opel Astra N heat exchanger gaskets or the entire device.
Preparatory stage: a set of tools, a new antifreeze, engine oil, a repair kit for gaskets, a heat exchanger (if there are cracks in the case).
The heat exchanger must be replaced only in one case - physical damage to the case, as a result of which a crack has formed, there is a leak. In all other situations, it is sufficient to dispense with the replacement of the gaskets.
Replacing the Opel Astra H oil cooler gaskets is a simple procedure, but the preparatory stage is time consuming:
dismantling the air filter, branch pipes, connecting hoses;
removing the plastic radiator cover;
draining antifreeze;
dismantling the cover of the exhaust manifold thermal shield, directly the manifold itself;
Only then can you begin to remove the heat exchanger.Having cleaned it from the residues of oil, antifreeze, dried it, the master will replace six rubber gaskets with new ones. You can install the finished part on the engine block.
If there are no third-party breakdowns, the installation technology is not violated, the minimum repair time is about an hour.
When working with clients, we always form affordable prices for services so that their cost is within the reach of everyone.
We provide a quality guarantee for all work carried out within the framework of the order (including the replacement of the Opel Astra H heat exchanger gaskets). In the presence of defects, the client can always exercise the right to repair the breakdown free of charge.
The instructions for replacing the heat exchanger gaskets are, in principle, the same for all GM engines of the A / Z16 / 18XER / LET series.
Below is: the essence of the problem, a few photos of the process on the Zafira Z18XER, instructions with tightening torques on the Z18XER and at the end of the spare parts number.
The problem of GM engines of the XER / LET series (A16LET, Z18XER, etc.) common to Opel, Chevrolet is oil leakage through the heat exchanger gasket (aka the engine oil cooler) / or oil getting into the antifreeze through the heat exchanger.
The heat exchanger is located in a hard-to-reach place, behind the exhaust manifold, therefore, if you do not pay attention to the sweating of oil or the appearance of smudges, you may not notice it in time. But as soon as the oil starts to flow in full and falls on the exhaust manifold, this fragrant smell of burning will immediately notify you of a malfunction.
Antifreeze and oil pass through the heat exchanger. The assembly is heavily overloaded with many gaskets and tubes, the seals of which are made of rubber.
Over time, rubber loses its properties and "dubs". The seals lose their tightness and oil starts to flow through the cylinder block, or get into antifreeze, because the pressure in the lubrication system (oil pressure) is higher than the pressure in the cooling system (antifreeze).
We had a Zafira X18XER, the instructions were taken from the CRUZE Z18XER, no different. One caveat: somewhere it was written that it is necessary to remove the air conditioning compressor on the Zafira. They did nothing of the kind, they just removed the cooling fan. It is better to do it right away, because with a fan, it is problematic to even remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
1. Remove the cooling fan, oil dipstick.
2. Drain the coolant. Radiator plug. In the direction of movement of the car from the bottom right, from the end of the radiator.
3. Disconnect the lambda block, exhaust manifold heat shield.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold spacer (6)
4. Nuts securing the catalytic converter to the flexible exhaust pipe (1)
When assembling, tighten to 22 Nm
5. Nuts securing the catalytic converter to the cylinder head (8)
When assembling, tighten 20 Nm
6. Remove the 2 bolts (1) from the engine oil cooler outlet pipe. Remove the engine oil cooler outlet pipe (2).
7. Remove the 2 bolts from the engine oil cooler inlet pipe (4).
8. Dismantle the engine oil cooler inlet pipe (3).
9. Remove the 5 bolts (2) of the engine oil cooler housing.
When assembling, tighten 25 Nm
10. Remove the engine oil cooler housing (1).
11. Remove the 6 engine oil cooler bolts (2) and remove the engine oil cooler (1) from the radiator housing.
12. We wash everything, change all gaskets, assemble in reverse order.
13. If desired or necessary, change the oil, filter, flush the cooling system, change the antifreeze.
Watch an interesting video on this topic
We are changing the oil cooler gaskets for the Opel Astra H 1.8 Ecotec Z18XER. We flush the cooling system and change the antifreeze.
Replacement of heat exchanger gaskets for Opel Astra J, engine A16XER. List of required spare parts. Items: 5650960 24445723 077470.
Guys, when replacing heat exchanger gaskets on opels, never buy a duplicate, only original ones.
Detailed video instructions for replacing the heat exchanger gaskets Opel Astra N. Part 1. Opel Astra H Z18XER Caravan.
Relevant for Opel and Chevrolet.
Guys, when replacing heat exchanger gaskets on opels, never buy a duplicate, only original ones.
We change the gaskets of the heat exchanger. Detailed video. General Motors 55353319 General oil filter housing gasket.
First part
Replacing the oil heat exchanger gasket Opel ASTRA G X17DTL Replacing the oil filter. gasket: 0650742.
Some points are shown for replacing the heat exchanger gaskets.
Opel-Astra-replacement of gaskets (rubber bands) of the heat exchanger.
Second part
Opel Astra G, 1.7 DTI (Y17DIT). 2:06 - draining the antifreeze. 2:41 - how to bypass the heat exchanger. It began to appear in the antifreeze tank.
The Z16XER engines and some others have a standard sore. Symptoms are: Ingress of oil into antifreeze.
So we got around to creating a video for replacing the heat exchanger gaskets with the Z18XER. As you know, this is another typical one.
The main reason for getting oil into the antifreeze is a damaged oil cooler.
Kent categorically refused to buy a heat exchanger for terrible money, I suggested trying to fix it.
Replaced the heat exchanger gaskets, which were squeezed out during severe frosts. The repair was carried out in the already native Autoser.
We remove and clean the heat exchanger and EGR valve on the Opel Astra J CDTI. Error P0108.
Detailed video instructions for replacing the heat exchanger gaskets Opel Astra N. Part 2. Opel Astra H Z18XER Caravan.
A brief overview of replacing the heat exchanger rubber bands opel astrs h and the associated replacement of the stove pipes with cheap ones.
OWN HAND REPLACING OIL COOLER (HEAT EXCHANGER) GASKETS. ONE OF THE BASIC REASONS .. WHEN THE OILS.
I'm talking about the features of repair in the service, recommendations for replacing the Opel Astra heat exchanger gaskets.
I received the whole set of these gaskets, I wonder, but there is such a proprietary set that would not be separate.
now you need to make up your mind and change everything. what other recommendations can there be?
Well, I coped with the task of replacing the heat exchanger gaskets, I counted on it in three hours, but spent six hours, of course, at the same time washed the radiators, the dirt was notable, I fiddled with removing the thermal protection of the collector, she stubbornly did not want to climb out, because the pipe from the air conditioner compressor interferes, also due to the lack of a special tool for removing the rings of the clamps from the hose that goes from the thermostat to the radiator, I had to pretty much strain my engineering thought how to remove it, and the most flush, this is when I collected everything and put protection, I slammed it the hood to roll the car out of the garage, and and and and the hood does not open I forgot to put the cable in the loop of the lock, I will not tell here how I opened it. conclusion, about about 100 thousand km of gaskets on the oil channels hardened and dried out, so the oil began to ooze on the antifreeze, the rings swelled a little and sat very well and tightly.
Removal and installation of the heater heat exchanger
The vehicles discussed in this manual are equipped with the SRS additional safety system, better known as an airbag. Before performing any work near the cushion assembly or the steering column, be sure to turn off the system in order to avoid injury as a result of its accidental operation (see Chapter Onboard electrical equipment). SRS circuit wiring insulation and connectors are bright yellow. Do not connect any diagnostic devices to this circuit!
The air conditioning system is constantly under high pressure. Never disconnect the refrigeration lines or remove any system components without first discharging the system. The air conditioning system must be discharged by an experienced technician in a car service workshop. Always wear protective goggles when disconnecting the refrigeration lines!
Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with open areas of the body and painted surfaces of the vehicle. Wash off accidentally spilled splashes without delay with copious amounts of water.Remember that antifreeze is a highly toxic liquid and if it gets inside the body, even in small quantities, it is fraught with the most serious consequences (including death). Never leave antifreeze stored in a container that is not tightly closed and immediately collect any coolant spills on the floor. Remember that the sweet smell of antifreeze can attract the attention of children and animals. For methods of disposal of used coolant, consult at any car service station. In many regions of the world, special centers have been set up to receive various kinds of labor. Never drain old coolant down the drain or onto the ground! Recently, non-toxic grades of antifreeze have been developed, but they also need to be disposed of in an organized manner.
Wait until the engine has cooled completely before proceeding with the procedure.
We are changing the oil cooler gaskets for the Opel Astra H 1.8 Ecotec Z18XER. We flush the cooling system and change the antifreeze.
For advertising and cooperation, please contact: and
Hah yelled at galasin from the moment about the extension cord)
the extension cord did not take pi ** uh to the top)) 0
you coat the gasket with sealant and forget about these problems)
I see Force heads you have. How is the quality? I'm thinking of buying a set for myself. Thank you for the video. like
the temperature can be found through the onboard computer
Tell me pzhl. track title from 9:40
Well, there is no need to make this silicone gasket at the factory. From the rags, that's dubbed.
bk on this wheelbarrow has a service mode. there and the temperature of the antifreeze is shown.
Guys, what is her mileage, and the year of release. Prosto many sores were fixed after 2009-10.
I haven't watched the new video yet, but put a like or a finger in the top, and even drank not a lot of Georgian wine.
What pshikalis on the rubber sealing rings?
What a stupid design. And why on the motor 1.8 oil cooler.
I picked it myself, I remembered everyone who designed it. more than once.
Well done, very informative. We are waiting for the timing. At the very same Opel, very interesting.
What is the agent in the bottle with which you wash the dirt?
guys, the screensaver is long IMHO, it will be cut a little and will not fall in quality and will not need to turn over 🙂 because it is a little tedious
dick to myself, none of the dislikes. Where are the trolls?
The skin of the hands goes without gloves :(
I have the same but 1.6. about the temperature, you can see it if you hold down the settings button on the radio tape recorder until a beep sounds and after pressing the BC button (on-board computer) several times not on the steering wheel, namely on the radio tape recorder, you can see the coolant temperature
I would like more video on this car))
I understand now Opel shit
Cooling liquid must not be poured onto hot water.
guys bought EML 327 yesterday, it seems that the flow rate is 12-13 l / 100 km, can you trust him or is this program trying?
By the way, I changed this gasket, it comes with the rest of the gaskets
on the video, everything is done so quickly and well
I did the same a couple of weeks ago on a 1.6 engine, but after replacing the gaskets, antifreeze began to go away. I think that from the gaskets on the tubes, by the way, what did you process the gaskets with?
Why is there this oil cooler? Is cooling with antifreeze not enough? In my opinion, they were too clever, they created unnecessary difficulties and then the owner toil.
Well done, great, everything is clear and understandable as always.
What were the O-rings splashing with during installation?
You have cool vidos on the channel. Everything is simple, accessible, understandable. The host is generally superb. Like.
it turns out that you do not need to buy a special flushing agent for the cooling system, but just wash it with distilled water?
The video, as always, is super only 1) Please indicate the catalog numbers of the parts and consumables you are using 2) The price of parts and consumables 3) Tightening torque (as before)
why did they wash it with plain water and not rinsing, can water remove all the oil?
on these opel in bortovik you can watch the temperature.
Like someone at 2:44 a hand with a clock appeared :)))))
Wow!! and what is this "screwdriver" ??
In practice, I received p3da from the mechanic 3a that I removed the collars as in this video 10:58, holding the pliers with both hands 3a. after 3 weeks I left there, he fucked me: D
Bought Concen. concentrates: DDDDD
How many pads and elastic bands did you need? Can I have a list?
I want to still see opel astra (h) refurbishment Many thanks like
as always excellent)) tell me what tracks in the video are playing? I really liked it)))
You can explain in more detail what gaskets you bought, where they ordered (the originals are not originals?), How many of them do you need at all? And where did you get 7000 rubles, if no work. For rubber bands or what? And yet, when installing them back on the sealant, were they not planted?
The oil must be drained or not.
Repair will cost money and it's not cheap. This is a divorce of locksmiths. Just a glitch of the sensor. When the temperature drops.
The engine temperature in the bortovik is shown through the setting button.
Thank you very helpful video.
Ashka also has an on-board computer that shows the temperature of the antifreeze
Greetings! Just came across your video) A week ago, I ran into the same trouble only on the road to M4 from Moscow 65 km. The temperature rises sharply, I open the hood, including the cap of the expansion tank, just stupidly the slurry climbed. I changed the gaskets, by the way, they are not cheap. An hour after installation on a running engine, the same slurry. Thought cylinder head but no. It turned out that the exchanger itself, namely an aluminum radiator that is attached to 6 balts inside, exchanges liquid with oil. Check this thing for leaks, I checked it with an ordinary compressor
Greetings! Just came across your video) A week ago, I ran into the same trouble only on the road to M4 from Moscow 65 km. The temperature rises sharply, I open the hood, including the cap of the expansion tank, just stupidly the slurry climbed. I changed the gaskets, by the way, they are not cheap. An hour after installation on a running engine, the same slurry. Thought cylinder head but no. It turned out that the exchanger itself, namely an aluminum radiator that is attached to 6 balts inside, exchanges liquid with oil. Check this thing for leaks, I checked it with an ordinary compressor
In a zhopele, you can go to the service menu by long pressing the settings button and see the temperature there. And when you remove the battery from them - be careful, the robot begins to love the head!
PLEASE SAY WHAT IS THE OPERATING TEMPERATURE OF THE DIESEL ASTRA MOTOR 1.3?
Good video, but disassembly of course is tough. Apparently modern cars are not very suitable for repair.
NatK159357 ›Blog› Repair leaks heat exchanger Astra H 1.8
The problem of a heat exchanger leak is widespread, and I also had such a problem. I changed the drive and saw the oil on the kondeya compressor, I already wiggled my brains that the compressor is kirdyk, but no, it turns out that our motors have such a fornication as a heat exchanger, and it is located behind the convex manifold, in a very accessible and comfortable place for repairs)). Many outlined how this unit is being repaired, I've decided to get confused and do it myself, I will outline how it turned out for me. I decided to change the oil in the box Opel Astra h. Opel Astra engine mountings are on sale. replacement, price for Orel astra n pillow How to replace the heat exchanger gasket At the moment I am at the assembly stage. Opel Astra N Stabilizer Bushings Replacement
Replacing the engine mount Astra N (solved) - 1 Later I will post a photo report. But I'll tell you right off the bat repair costs 670 rubles. Repair Opel Astra There was an experience of such repairs on the same car for half a year, the flight is normal. Everything is decided by the purchase of 2 gaskets (intake manifold gasket 08 49 533 and gasket between the catalyst and corrugation 58 54 988) and high temperature sealant (abro reddish) all gaskets and a dozen of them remain in place, their role is now to fill the place. And so if you order all of them, the cost, not counting the glushak gaskets, is about 2500 rubles and you can expect it again. How to check the ignition module for an Opel Astra n Generally anti-crisis repair so to speak))) and if, in addition, we add the repair price is 5000 rubles in Krasnodar, the most affordable offer that I found, then it turns out 7500 rubles, but it’s not lying on the road)).
I did this operation in order to remove the internal cooling fan from the case, I tried to take it out without all this, I did not succeed, someone wrote on the forums that it is possible to remove the fan anyway, but I tried and was afraid to break something, I found it easier unwind for 10 minutes and everything is at a glance. Repair of heat exchanger leakage Astra H 1.8 - DRIVE2 Repair of heat exchanger Opel Astra n price This bar keeps the air intake from the air filter,
We change the oil cooler gaskets to Opel Astra H 1.8 Ecotec Z18XER. We wash the cooling system and change it.
Detailed video annotation on replacing gaskets heat exchanger Opel Astra N... 1 part. Opel astra h Z18XER Caravan.
We are changing the oil cooler gaskets for the Opel Astra H 1.8 Ecotec Z18XER. We flush the cooling system and change the antifreeze.
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Numbers of all rubber bands. 5650960/5650962/5650966 - 2pcs. / 5650969/5650971/5650972/5650974/6338472 / this is a complete set of rubber gaskets only.
e10 from the bottom of the thermal protection, the compressor must be unscrewed so as not to damage the tubes and not fuck with the thermal protection, but the fan can be left, the belt is easily thrown off.
It's good that the oil presses into antifreeze and not vice versa, it would be a cunt
fuck him and haby about him forever)))))
This heady engine is present on the Chevrolet Cruze and Chevrolet Aveo. These fucking ecotech engine is just miserable
the engine is not salty, but quite resourceful, the salubrious brain of the designer who came up with this oil cooler and introduced the Euro5 norms, because of the norms, such a temperature is horse, it makes sense to chip and drop the temperature, and it will be better to go
just Good day! Opel Astra J / 1.6, / changed GM gaskets 2 times, the expander barrel is new, all one slurry in the expansion barrel, I spat and drove, and the other day the pipe burst, yesterday I wanted to order a new heat exchanger, so they say 2 months to wait for the original and the price 16-18 t, (not sour) How are you? solved the problem?
The most heat-loaded place, for fast heat exchange, but the design itself could be greatly simplified, without sacrificing reliability, but in general, the unit is efficient
Author! I am much older than you. why are you Poking me?
Engines with this nasty heat exchanger: Z16XER, Z18XER, F14D4, F16D4, F18D4 Cars: Opel Astra H, Opel Mokka, Opel Insignia, Opel Zafira, Chevrolet Cruze, Chevrolet Aveo T300, Chevrolet Orlando
The author and how to understand that the barrel is not blowing?
respect fellows everything is cool.
Numbers of gaskets in the studio!
Hello, about how long does it take to warm up the car when flushing? obd no
The temperature can be viewed on the console
The heat exchanger is nafig, and in the body the channels should be extended and welded with argon. The katkollektor always threw out and put a spider with a blende.
Is it worth it to additionally lubricate with a sealant.
Marat nurtaliev welded it with argon and, when assembling, smeared the old rubber bands with sealant and dried it overnight.
If you have a Chevrolet, then you also have an Opel.
You could not remove the fan, and not pull out the catalyst, just lower the catalyst down and it does not interfere
If you replaced the gaskets and cleaned the inlet, and there is still oil in the inlet, do you need to change the heat exchanger (although you checked the heat exchanger that there is no leakage there)?
Thanks for the answer. Replaced the oil pump gasket and everything is ok
The oil in the coolant can enter in two places.
The temperature is there, but in the on-board computer.
The temperature can be viewed through the "Setting" in the on-board computer)
guys help) I have an Opel Astra n the low beam of the left headlight does not light up, I didn’t do anything in the flesh until delirium, pulled out the fuses one at a time and there’s no point where only on what forums didn’t climb tode
buy a new light bulb and that's all)))
Yes, change the heat exchanger gaskets and you will be happy)
I had such a thought for a long time stuck in my head to throw out the heat exchanger and put on the radiator, but I have not yet figured out how to do it all.
Well, rightly you take a small radiator kondeya a couple of aluminum tubes and a fire, a couple more metal tubes and a filter case from a turner and put it where it is convenient to change and voila, you go nafig the German pendosy constructor.
To come up with this, you need to smoke a lot of cannabis. since an oil filter is attached to the heat exchanger)
I have an Opel Astra Berlin, a 1.4 turbo engine. The oil is flowing apparently from the heat exchanger, because it smells of burnt oil in the salty, but I do not understand where it flows from. There is no oil in the expansion barrel and I don’t see where it flows from. I raised the car several times and still cannot be seen and removed the exhaust manifold protection. So my question is maybe from the heat exchanger and what gaskets are there? Exactly the same as in the video?
Your gasket did not break through between the channels, but just outward hu.rit oil, and burns out below the manifold, then climb under the car, badge fly.