DIY thermoelectric refrigerator repair

The effect of thermoelectric cooling, discovered by the French physicist J. Peltier in 1834, consists in the fact that when direct current is passed through a thermoelement consisting of two conductors or semiconductors, a certain amount of heat is released or absorbed at their junction, which is proportional to the current strength.

The heat flux, called the Peltier heat, is determined by the equation

The release or absorption of Peltier heat depends on the direction of the current and the thermal current that would arise when the junction of the conductors was heated. When the direction of the current in the conductors coincides, the Peltier heat is absorbed, and otherwise released. If there are several junctions, the release of heat at one junction is always accompanied by its absorption at the other, and vice versa.

The reason for the appearance of the Peltier effect is that the average energy of electrons involved in the transfer of current from one conductor to another is different. This is clearly confirmed by the example of a contact between an electronic semiconductor and a metal.

Let us assume that the direction of the current corresponds to the direction of the transition of electrons from the semiconductor to the metal. Since the energy level of free electrons of a semiconductor is much higher than the level of free electrons of a metal, when passing from a semiconductor to a metal, electrons, colliding with metal atoms, give them their excess energy.

This leads to the release of Peltier heat and an increase in the junction temperature. With the opposite direction of the current, the whole process goes in the opposite direction and the Peltier heat is absorbed.

For a long time, the effect of thermoelectric cooling did not find practical application due to the lack of sufficiently effective materials for thermoelements, and only after a number of discoveries in the field of semiconductor technology did it become possible to effectively use this phenomenon in practice.

Refrigerators with thermoelectric cooling do not have moving or rubbing parts, they are quiet in operation, allow precise temperature control, and are reliable.

Thermoelectric refrigerators are mainly used in vehicles. Their technical characteristics are given in table. one.

A schematic diagram of a household thermoelectric refrigerator is shown in Fig. 1a.

Rice. one. Diagram of a thermoelectric refrigerator (a) and a diagram of the thermoelement (b)

Thermopile consisting of two different semiconductor thermocouples n and R, is placed in the thickness of one of the walls of the refrigerating chamber so that the cold junctions face the refrigerating chamber, and the hot ones face a warmer environment. The thermoelement splices are made in the form of connecting plates that conduct electric current well. These fins are usually connected to finned heat sinks that increase the surface area and therefore the rate of heat transfer to the cold junctions from the cold room and from the hot junctions to the environment.

A constant current source is connected to the final elements of the thermopile. In this case, depending on the purpose of the refrigerator, an electric accumulator (battery) or a direct current generator can serve as a direct current source. In stationary operating conditions, a constant current supplying a thermopile is usually obtained using a rectifier connected to an AC mains.

With the direction of direct current indicated on fig.1.b arrows, the current from the cold junctions of the thermopile turns out to be directed from the thermoelement n to thermoelement R, and from the side of hot junctions, on the contrary - from R To n... The difference in the direction of movement of direct current charges through two thermoelements made of different materials causes a temperature difference at their ends.

If the direction of the direct current is changed to the opposite, then in the upper junctions of the thermopile the current will go from R To n and they will already be heating up, and not cooling, as before. Thus, by changing the direction of the supplying direct current, one can easily change the operating mode of the thermopile from cooling to heating the air in a limited volume environment.

The thermoelectric cooler is a battery (Fig. 2, a) consisting of separate semiconductor thermoelements sequentially soldered together. The thermoelement (Fig. 2, b) has two semiconductors in the form of rectangular or cylindrical bars. One of the semiconductors is made from an alloy of lead and tellurium, the other is made from an alloy of tellurium and antimony. Bismuth and selenium alloys are also used.

Rice. 2. Thermoelectric cooler:

a - thermopile; b - thermoelement

Semiconductors are connected in series with copper plates soldered to them. When direct current passes through the junctions, some of them (upper or lower, depending on the direction of the current) will absorb, while others will release a certain amount of heat. Thus, heat is transferred by an electric current, i.e. moving electrons.

The refrigerator consists of a body 1 (Fig. 3, a), a cover 2 and a connecting cord 10. To connect the refrigerator to power sources of cars of various brands, an adapter is used, which is put on the plug of the connecting cord. A fan and a thermal cooling unit 6 are mounted in the cover, consisting of a heat radiator 7 and a cold radiator 9. The fan consists of an electric motor 5, at the ends of the shaft of which impellers 3 and 8 are fixed.

Rice. 3. Refrigerator HATE-12M:

DIY car refrigerator on the Peltier element: drawings, detailed photos of making homemade products with a description.

This homemade product will be useful primarily for motorists, when traveling to nature, to the forest or to the river to the beach, the presence of a car mini refrigerator is very important.

In the summer heat, you can store perishable food in the refrigerator and cool drinks, of course, you can purchase a ready-made version, but it will be much cheaper to do it yourself.

We will cool the air in the refrigerator using the Peltier element.

In fact, this is a thermoelectric converter in the form of a small plate; when it is connected to an electric current, a temperature difference appears in the plate, one side of the plate heats up, the other, on the contrary, cools down. We will use this feature to operate the refrigerator.

Materials for making:

• Expanded polystyrene (the author used a sheet of 1200 × 600x50 mm).
• Peltier element (can be purchased at radio stores).
• Two radiators with coolers from old computers.
• Thermal paste.
• Temperature controller with sensor (sold in radio stores).
• A piece of wire and a plug for connecting to a car cigarette lighter.
• Polyurethane foam.

• Stationery knife.
• Ruler, pencil.
• Soldering iron with soldering accessories.

We start manufacturing, first of all, we will make the body of the future mini refrigerator from expanded polystyrene sheets.

Expanded polystyrene is a very good heat insulator, even after disconnecting the refrigerator from electricity, it will keep the cold inside the container for a long time.

The figure shows the dimensions of the case, but you can make the box according to your dimensions, depending on the required volume of the refrigerator.

A sheet of expanded polystyrene is easily cut with a clerical knife, all parts of the box are glued together with polyurethane foam, after applying the foam, the parts must be pressed for 5 minutes until the foam sets.

Now we will install the cooling element in the refrigerator.

For cooling, we will use a Peltier element, when connected to a 12 V network, one side of it becomes very cold, and it will cool the air inside the refrigerator. The second side of the element will be very hot so that the device does not burn out, you need to remove heat, this can be done using a radiator and cooler from the computer.

Cooling device diagram for a car refrigerator.

But if you just put a radiator on the inside of the Peltier element, then it will begin to freeze, it is optimal to install a cooler to evenly remove the cold from the radiator.

For good heat transfer, a layer of thermal paste is applied between the radiators and the Peltier element. We connect the heatsinks to each other with standard brackets, which are used to attach to the computer's motherboard.

We test the performance of the device, connect it to a 12 V battery.

In fact, the device is a plate, on either side of which radiators with blowing coolers are fixed.

We install the device in the opening of the box, with the cooling side inward, the gaps between the opening of the case and the device are sealed with sealant.

Outdoor unit, radiator with cooler for hot air removal.

To adjust the temperature, we will install a temperature controller with a sensor; the wire with the sensor itself must be pulled through the hole into the container. The refrigerator is ready, we plug it into the cigarette lighter socket of a car or directly to a 12 V battery and use it.

One Peltier element cools the refrigerator to a temperature of -3 ° C, at an ambient temperature of +25 ° C.

At + 30 ° С outside, the temperature of +6 ° С is stably maintained in the refrigerator, just like in a regular refrigerator.

2. So, let's start with a thermos container. We need one sheet of expanded polystyrene with dimensions of 1200x600 mm, 50 mm thick, a stationery knife and a tape measure. The cost of such a sheet in any hardware store is 160 rubles. We cut the sheet according to the template, take the polyurethane foam and glue such a container.

3. Here is a diagram of cutting a sheet. The sheet has sides with a thickness of 20 mm, they must be cut off from all sides, except for the bottom. The sheets are glued together with polyurethane foam. The technology is simple. Apply a little foam to the bonding area, wait 1 minute, press the sheets tightly against each other and then manually control for 5 minutes so that they do not move due to the expansion of the foam. The main thing is not to leave unattended. Only a small piece of expanded polystyrene, marked in gray on the diagram, will remain superfluous.

4. Pay attention to the design of the lid, I cut one of the large sheets from the diagram above into 3 parts in place when gluing to ensure a tight fit. After that, the outside box can be painted. The paint corrodes the expanded polystyrene a little, so it is better to paint in two stages. The resulting container weighs 820 grams and has incredible heat loss performance. In such a box, you can put several kilograms of frozen food and transport them without problems for several hours. The main thing is not to mix frozen and chilled foods. The design can be supplemented with a cold accumulator.

5. Or you can modify the design to get a full-fledged refrigerator. For these purposes, we will use a Peltier element - a thermoelectric converter, the principle of operation of which is based on the occurrence of a temperature difference during the flow of an electric current. It is these elements that are used in serial car refrigerators, as well as ventilated car seats.

The cost of one Pelte element with a maximum power of 60 W on aliexpress is 130-150 rubles. Model TEC1-12706. During operation, one side of the element heats up, the other cools down. so that the element does not burn out, it is required to intensively remove heat from the hot side. To do this, we need a processor cooler with a radiator from a computer store, which costs 250 rubles.To improve air circulation inside the refrigerator and prevent freezing of the radiator, I decided to install fans on both sides. We also need a thermostat with an external temperature sensor and a relay, which costs 170 rubles, which will allow us to control the set temperature inside the container. Well, an extension cord with a connector for a car cigarette lighter for 100 rubles.

6. The Peltier element using thermal paste (included with the cooler) is installed between two aluminum radiators. It is worth noting here that it is possible to increase the temperature gradient of the installation by assembling 2 or 3 Peltier elements in series. So that one Peltier element cools the other. In this case, it is possible to get a negative temperature in the container down to -18 degrees Celsius. We lay a piece of foamed thermal insulation around the perimeter between the element.

7. We connect the heatsinks to each other with standard mounting plates to the motherboard, connecting them with plastic clamps. This also allows the cold and hot sides to be thermally insulated from each other. Test run of the installation. The more intensively we cool down the hot side, the lower the temperature on the cold side will be. Here, the fans are directed to supply air to the radiators, which is less efficient than turning them over for blowing out. In an improvised box, it was possible to achieve a temperature of -3 degrees, at an ambient temperature of +26. The photo clearly shows the model of the coolers, their advantage is in the large area of ​​the radiator support area. And as a thermal insulation pad, I used a piece of thermal insulation for round pipes.

8. Now we are going to integrate the thermoelectric converter into the new container lid. For the convenience of placing the entire structure, we will increase the thickness of the cover to 100 mm (2 sheets of expanded polystyrene). This photo clearly shows the perimeter gasket between the two radiators.

9. Artistic cutting on polystyrene foam and sanding. We paint again. After painting, the outer polystyrene shell becomes stronger.

10. We coat the seams with sealant, turn both fans over to blow out. Potential improvements - it might be worth lowering the fan speed on the cold side (now both fans are running at maximum speed).

11. Next to the case, we install the thermostat board and fix the power wire in such an unpretentious way. First, we press the plate using self-tapping screws, then fix it with a sealant.

12. Assembled container. The weight of the container without the lid is 800 grams, the same is the weight of the lid with the assembled thermoelectric converter. General expenses - 1000 rubles and a couple of hours of time. Tests with refrigerated products in the trunk of a car have shown the system's ability to maintain the temperature at the bottom (!) Of the container within +5 degrees Celsius, at an ambient temperature of +29 degrees (yes, it is much warmer in the trunk, even when the air conditioner is running) and current consumption - 3 Ampere. I think this is a great result.

I plan to make the next container from 3 Peltier elements installed in series in order to get a full-fledged freezer.

Despite the fact that modern refrigerators are quite reliable and capable of serving for several decades, they also periodically fail. It is worth solving problems with household appliances right away. Some problems can be dealt with on their own, while others require specialist intervention.

Typical problems that you can deal with on your own include:

• the appearance of extraneous sounds and rattling;
• insufficient or strong cooling of food;

But the serious problems that require the intervention of professionals include:

• current piercing through the casing;
• turning off the device immediately after turning it on;
• the formation of a snow cap on the back wall;
• stopping the operation of the motor - compressor;
• lack of cooling.

Most often, no matter how trite it may seem, the rattling of the unit is caused by an incorrectly adjusted suspension of the compressor casing. To solve the problem, it is enough to lower the suspension bolts with springs to the required level.

Also, equipment rattling can be caused by contact of the product body with pipelines. This is solved by detecting problem areas and moving the tubes. Relays can also cause jitter. To fix the problem, it is worth making sure that it is located correctly and according to the special labels.

If the refrigeration equipment begins to freeze strongly or weakly, you will need to check several indicators at once:

Sometimes consumers are faced with the problem that refrigeration equipment is electrocuted. This can happen both during his work and in a calm state.

Attention: using a device that shocks is dangerous to life. Unplug it immediately and either fix the problem yourself or call the wizard.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need a special device - a megohmmeter, with which the insulation resistance of the refrigerator wiring is measured. The workflow will look like this:

1. Disconnect the unit from the mains and check the wires for visible defects.
2. If you haven't noticed any flaws on the wires, you will need one more device - "Ground". Its wire is connected to the body of the refrigerator, and the second wire - "Line", to the wire of the refrigerator. The "Line" wire is alternately connected to the thermostat, relay and compressor wires, and excessive resistance will be displayed on the screen.
3. After the location of the malfunction is calculated, the damaged wire will need to be replaced with a new one or carefully insulated.

The refrigerator can start to work continuously if the room temperature rises constantly or the thermostat knob is incorrectly set. Under these conditions, the equipment will operate at full capacity. If the thermostat is set correctly, and the unit is operating at full capacity without interruption, then it simply failed and must be replaced. Also, a problem in the constant operation of the compressor motor may be a refrigerant leak. This can only be determined using a special device. It is impossible to repair the equipment on your own without the skill and necessary consumables. It is worth contacting the workshop here.

The thermal relay is often triggered for various reasons:

• increased voltage in the electric motor circuit;
• the relay is loose;
• relay contacts oxidized;
• there are faults in the starting relay;
• the compressor is seized.

Important: most often the thermal relay often trips due to an increased voltage in the motor circuit. If the problem is not eliminated in time, its winding will burn out.

You can try to fix the breakdown by checking the voltage in the electric motor network. If stable, check the relay. For this, the motor is connected directly without a relay. If, after the performed manipulations, the equipment starts to work properly, you will need to replace the relay.

Sometimes in two-compartment refrigerators, excess moisture appears on the walls in the form of drops of water or a snow coat. This can happen due to long open doors, or if the seal has lost its elasticity. It can also be provoked by the fact that hot food is placed in the unit. Correcting this situation begins with checking all the settings in the cooling system.

Quite often, in modern models, a fur coat on the walls appears when the internal lighting is turned off. It is impossible to see if the backlight is on after the door is closed.To check if the light is on or not, place a thin object between the equipment wall and the seal and close the door. Through the resulting gap, you can determine whether the light is on or not. If it does not light up, then repair the lighting system or replace the button - the switch that comes out of the wall towards the door.

If, after connecting the unit to the network, it does not make any sounds, then the refrigerator does not work completely. This is most often due to the lack of current in the power supply network or to the failure of the refrigerator cord. If there is current, simply replace the cord or plug.

If the refrigeration equipment works, but with a short cycle, this can provoke:

• high pressure;
• the presence of air in the system;
• excess freon;
• relay actuation;
• dirty fan;
• failure of the fan.

For troubleshooting, you need to check if the fan is connected correctly. If there is a small amount of air in the system or there is an excess of freon, they will need to be vented through the valve. Remember to check the condenser for dust contamination. Frequent activation of the low pressure switch leads to clogging of the filter or damage to the expansion valve. In this case, you just need to clean the filter or replace it with a new one, check the relay settings.

Moisture can collect on the bottom of the refrigerator due to the tube misalignment or clogging. You can cope with a breakdown quite quickly if you clean the pipe that leads water to a special receiver using a long and flexible wire. The wire is inserted into the tube and moves along the hole to the bottom of the unit. After a few minutes of the working process, all the debris will go into the water receiver.

Caution: To completely clean the tube, it is best to douche it several times.

An unpleasant smell appears in the refrigerator from improper use. To do this, it is not recommended to place products with a pungent odor in it without special containers, wipe the walls of the device in time and monitor its cleanliness.

If, however, an unpleasant odor still appears in the device, you must quickly get rid of it. Since this will have a bad effect on all the products that are stored in it. This process can take several hours of your free time:

1. Disconnect the unit from the network and leave it for a while. If ice has formed on the walls, it is not recommended to remove it by force. Since we can cause mechanical damage to equipment.
2. After the equipment is completely defrosted, we wipe its walls with special means. Powder abrasive mixtures should not be chosen. Better opt for helium pastes.
3. Wipe the refrigerator dry with a clean cloth, ventilate it for 5-10 hours.
4. We plug the unit into an outlet and continue to operate it.

In some models of refrigerators, light bulbs in the backlight often burn out. Replacing them should not be difficult. It is enough just to unscrew the bolt holding the cover, remove it and unscrew the burned out light bulb. In its place, a new lamp is screwed in, the power of which should not exceed 15 W., and fix the shade in place.

Before proceeding with the repair of refrigeration equipment, it is necessary to diagnose it in order to understand whether it is possible to cope with the breakdown on its own or it is worth resorting to the help of specialists.

1. To diagnose equipment at home, you will need to prepare a universal tester and a screwdriver. Diagnostics begins with determining the quality of the voltage in the network. If it is 220 W, then everything is normal. If the voltage is less than this indicator, this can become the main reason for the failure of the household appliance.
2. Next, we carefully examine the cord and plug of the unit for integrity. It should not have defects, it should not heat up during operation.
3. Next, we inspect the terminals on the compressor.It is better to do this with the equipment disconnected from the network.
4. We inspect the compressor, which is located at the lower rear of the refrigerator. It must be free of defects and damage. After visual inspection, we check the winding. Disconnect flexible wires before inspection. It is necessary to check the winding circuit for continuity using a tester.
5. After that, you can proceed to diagnostics of small parts - the temperature sensor. To do this, use a screwdriver to remove and disconnect the wiring. Each wire is tested for functionality with a tester.

All malfunctions of refrigeration equipment are divided into two parts:

1. The inner chamber is not cooled during normal engine start. Most often, the breakdown lies in the main components of the equipment.
2. The unit does not turn on or turns on for a short time and then turns off. Here, the problems are associated with a malfunction of the electrical circuit of the household appliance.

In the first case, only highly qualified craftsmen should be engaged in repairs, since diagnostics and repairs can only be carried out with the help of special equipment and long-term skills.

But if the electrical mechanism of the unit is out of order, then you can solve the problem on your own - after carrying out diagnostics, identifying the causes of the breakdown and replacing the failed part.

In conclusion, I would like to note that every unit, even from a world-famous manufacturer, may stop working at some time. To repair a refrigerator, you need to figure out what the matter is, purchase the necessary part and stock up on free time. If you do not have special experience in the repair of household equipment, it is better to contact the masters of their craft, who will solve all problems quickly and efficiently.

DIY installation of screw piles: performing installation calculations, installation rules. Design features and advantages of screw piles.

Description of the principle of operation and the device of the pumping station, characteristics of the main types of breakdowns, do-it-yourself repair. Replacing a failed membrane. System installation and operation manual.

Ceramic crane-axle box: what is it, design, do-it-yourself repair

The refrigerator most often breaks down at the most inopportune moment. What was the reason, how serious the breakdown is, how it can be fixed - the summary table of refrigerator malfunctions will help to answer these questions.

Classic refrigerator (without No Frost system) works as follows:

Now that we are familiar with the refrigerator device, we propose the following sequence of actions:

Try to identify the problem. in the vast majority of cases, this is not difficult by following the instructions for troubleshooting.

If possible, repair it yourself. A person familiar with the refrigerator design and possessing a minimum set of tools is able to eliminate most of the malfunctions not related to the depressurization of the system.

If self-repair is not possible, choose a company, determine the cost of repairs and call a master.

At the end of the repair, adhere to the recommendations for operating the refrigerator.

The sequence of actions to identify the failed part and recommendations for repair. For compressor refrigerators without No Frost system.

Check the voltage in the outlet, it should be in the range of 200-240 Volts, if this is not the case, the refrigerator is not obliged to work (although it may work for a while, especially the old models.)

All repair work must be carried out with the refrigerator unplugged and defrosted!

a) Check if the light inside the refrigerator is on, if it used to be on, but now it is off - there is a malfunction in the power cord or electrical plug (this is a fairly common malfunction and it is not necessary to call a refrigerator repair technician to fix it).

b) If the light comes on, the first thing to do is to check the thermostat:

- we find two wires suitable for the thermostat, remove them from the terminals and connect them together. If
the refrigerator will then work - we change the thermostat and the repair is completed.

c) If the thermostat is working properly. In the same way, we check the button for defrosting the refrigerator.

d) For further diagnostics, you will need an ohmmeter. We disconnect and call the starting and protective relay (they can be assembled in one case), if we find an open circuit, we replace the defective part.

e) The electric motor of the motor-compressor remains, it is difficult to replace it without the participation of a specialist, but since we got to it, it is worth finding out what exactly the malfunction is. There may be three defects in this unit:

- winding breakage;
- turn-to-turn closure of the winding;
- short circuit to the motor compressor case;

How to identify them is generally clear: all three contacts of the electric motor should ring among themselves and not ring with the case. If the resistance between any two contacts is less than 20 ohms, this may indicate an interturn closure.

f) If you carefully completed the previous points and did not find a malfunction, this most likely indicates oxidation of the contacts in one of the connections of the refrigerator electrical circuit. Carefully inspect and clean all the contact groups that you disassembled, restore the refrigerator circuit in the reverse order - the refrigerator should work.

1 - electric motor
motor-compressor
1.1 - working winding
1.2 - starting winding

3 - thermostat contacts

10 - defrost button

11 - protection relay
11.1 - bimetallic plate
11.2 - relay contacts

12 - starting relay
12.1 - relay coil
12.2 - relay contacts

a) Defect in the bimetallic plate 11.1 of the protective relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
b) Defective coil (or other current sensor) 12.1 starting relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
c) Breakage of the starting winding of the electric motor 1.2: we determine the malfunction and call the repairman of refrigerators to replace the motor-compressor.

a) Freon leakage: Determined as follows - if the compressor is running and the amount of freon is normal, the condenser should heat up, touch it with your hand (carefully, it can heat up to 70 degrees), if after prolonged engine operation it remains cold, then the system is depressurizing ... Disconnect the refrigerator from the network and call the wizard.
b) Violation of the thermostat regulation. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
c) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard

a) Violation of the thermostat regulation. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
b) The rubber of the refrigerator door seal has lost its shape and elasticity. If the door does not close tightly, warm air will enter the refrigerator, the temperature regime will not be maintained and the motor-compressor will work with increased load. Inspect the seal carefully, if it is defective, replace it. (see also next point)
c) The door of the refrigerator led. The door geometry is adjusted by changing the tension of the two diagonal rods located under the door panel. For more information on how to adjust the door, see Removing gaps in refrigerator doors.
d) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard

a) If the refrigerator turns off from time to time, but the temperature in it is too low - slightly turn the thermostat knob counterclockwise, if this does not help - see.Violation of regulation of the thermostat
b) The fast freezing button is forgotten in the pressed position - turn it off.

Many malfunctions that subsequently lead to costly repairs to the refrigerator arise as a result of improper operation of the unit. Here are some simple tips:
a) If the refrigerator has been turned off for any reason, wait five minutes before turning it on again. This process can be automated, see the timer to delay the inclusion of the refrigerator

b) If the refrigerator has been defrosted, do not load it with food before it runs empty for one cycle and turns off.

c) Do not set the thermostat pointer further than the middle of the scale, this will not give a significant gain in temperature, and the engine will work in a hard mode.

d) On some refrigerators, a “crying evaporator” is located in the back of the refrigerator compartment (on the back wall). Do not lean food against it and do not forget to clean the water drain underneath.

e) When defrosting the refrigerator, it is unacceptable to pick off the ice using hard objects, defrost only with warm water.

f) On some refrigerators there is a “quick freeze” button (usually yellow), this button closes the thermostat contacts and the engine runs without shutting down. Do not forget this button is pressed.

g) Do not store vegetable oil in the refrigerator, oil is not required, and the rubber of the refrigerator door seal loses its elasticity.

h) Do not place the refrigerator near heating appliances.

The reason for the appearance of water in the refrigerating chamber is defrosting, as a result of improper operation or loss of tightness. Even a small puddle is a bad sign. The refrigerator has time to thaw and flow - look for leaks, as a rule, the sealing rubber does not fit tightly in the door. However, the reason may be trivial, the refrigerator doors were not closed tightly.

Very often household appliances, which are subjected to daily intensive use, fail. A private foreman for the repair of refrigerators can assign a fairly round sum, but fortunately, all the work can be done by hand.

Before starting repair work, you need to find out the place and reason for the strip. The simplest, most accessible, but at the same time, and dangerous indicator is water, which can flow under the freezer or flow out directly from the refrigerator. If a Soviet refrigerator is leaking, there may be two reasons:

1. Drainage is clogged;
2. The container in which the condensate collects is overfilled;
3. The drain pipe is leaking.

It will not be difficult to eliminate such breakdowns, but we will tell you more about this below. If the water does not flow, and the Electrolux, Nord, Ariston and others simply stopped working, then you need to carry out a comprehensive diagnosis.

Urgent repairs of even the most complex refrigerator can be done at home with your own hands. Let's take a look at step-by-step instructions on how to troubleshoot the most common problems in refrigeration systems.

Video: how to repair a refrigerator with your own hands