DIY supra thermo pot repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a supra thermo-pot from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Thermopot is a mixture of a teapot and a thermos. To maintain a certain temperature of the liquid in the device, a heating function is provided. Despite the rather reliable design, the device breaks down over time, and the question arises: is it possible to repair the thermopot with your own hands?

Before you start looking for the reasons that caused the malfunction in the device, it is advisable to know a little about its device. A thermopot consists of a plastic or metal case, inside which there is a metal container for water. The device is closed with a lid with controls.

In any thermo-pot there are 2 heaters: one for boiling water, and the second for maintaining the desired temperature regime. To control the heating of the liquid to a certain value, the device is installed thermostat... The latter is of 2 types.

Stepless - characterized by smooth regulation of the water temperature in the range from 60 to 100 degrees.
Stepwise - the temperature regime is adjusted according to fixed temperature values, for example, as in the VITEK VT-1187 GY thermo-pot, Saturn ST-EK8032, as well as in the MYSTERY MTP-2403 device

Thermopots always have at their disposal several heating control modes. The more modes there are, the more flexible the device can be controlled.

But practice suggests that in most cases 3 modes are enough to control temperature indicators. In inexpensive models such as Magnit RTP-013 and MAGNIT RTP-002, only 1 temperature setting is available, which only allows you to boil water.

Video (click to play).

Also, the thermopot is equipped with an electronic board (control module) and electric pump (pump) for supplying heated water from the container. To supply heated water to the cup, there are several modes: manual filling, auto-filling and filling with a lever on the spout. Such filling functions are available, for example, in the Polaris pwp 4012d or Saturn ST-EK8034 NEW aggregate.

The most common causes of breakdowns are the following parts of the device:

network wire;
control module;
water pump;
electric heaters;
thermal switch.

Before you repair the thermo-pot with your own hands, you should disconnect it from the network. After that, in order to “ring out” the wire of the device with the tester, it must be disconnected. To do this, unscrew the screws on the bottom of the device and remove it. You will see the terminals to which the power cord... Unplug the cord and start “ringing” it with the tester. If the cord is in order, you can proceed with further troubleshooting.

If you find that on your device button does not work or all keys, the cause of the problem may be a failed control unit. It is not recommended to repair it on your own, since it is necessary to have certain knowledge in radio electronics. It will be better if a service center will repair the thermos kettle.

If, after turning on the device, it does not boil water, while all heating modes, as well as automation, are working, then these symptoms indicate that the heater may have burned out or the thermostat has failed.... To find out, you need disassembly of the unit.

Using a flat object (you can use a screwdriver), remove the plastic ring from the clips. Under it you will see fasteners that need to be unscrewed.

After removing the screws, remove the pallet.To continue disassembling, it is recommended to mark with a marker all the wires of the same color and photograph the location of all other wires. This should be done so that later during assembly there are no difficulties.

Disconnect the hose clamps holding the hoses connected to the pump. You can simply cut them off with scissors or wire cutters.

Disconnect the hoses from the electric pump connections.

Remove the top cover of the thermo pot, without applying great force, turn it upside down and lower the tank so that it is on the table.

Unscrew the PCB and set it aside.

2 more screws can be found under the gasket.

After unscrewing all the screws on the metal pallet, it can be removed together with the bottom.

Next, remove the 8 screws holding the cover.

Now use a screwdriver to pry off the protective cover and remove it. You will see a heating element.

After removing the heating element, it must be checked for open circuit using a tester. If the changes have shown that there is damage to the heater, then it will have to be replaced with a new one, since water does not boil due to this breakdown.

In different models of units, the type of heating elements may differ. Their location may also vary. But the algorithm for disassembling the device, in most cases, is similar. To learn more about how to change the heaters, you can watch the video.

If the thermopot does not pump water when trying to pour hot liquid into the cup, then most likely the pump does not work, due to its failure. To get to the pump, you will need to disassemble the device as described above. After removing all parts of the bottom, you will see the pump.

Next, do the following.

To easily remove the pump, disconnect one of the tubing connected to the pump. If the tubes are clogged with limescale, it is recommended to remove and clean them.
Separate the pump from the housing and be careful not to lose the silicone gasket.
After that, unscrew the fasteners connecting the motor to the impeller to the pump housing.
After disconnecting the pump housing and the electric motor, you will notice scale build-upthat interferes with the rotation of the impeller.
Also, if you remove the impeller (it is she who is responsible for the water supply), you can find clogged magnetto be cleaned of dirt.

If, after removing all the contaminants, the pump does not turn on and there is no water supply, then you will need to purchase a new pump, since these signs indicate a burnout of the electric motor winding.

Sometimes a situation arises when the thermo-pot does not turn off and boils water constantly... Or vice versa: you have poured water, the device heats it up, but turns off when the liquid is not boiling yet. Why is this happening? This malfunction can occur when the thermal switches are faulty. They can be found on the bottom and sides of the tank. For better contact with the surface, a special thermal paste is used.

The thermal switch located at the bottom of the tank is attached to it with two screws. Sometimes a manufacturer, especially a Chinese one, applies little thermal paste, because of which the thermostat starts to work incorrectly: the device may not turn off for a long time when boiling water.

To test the thermostat for operability, it is necessary to disconnect it from the tank body, and remove the wires from the terminals. In the normal state (no heating), the relay is in the “on” position. If you check it with a tester, the device will show a resistance of 0 Ohm.

Next, you should connect 2 wires to the switch and immerse it in water brought to a boil. Now measure the resistance again. If the device shows infinity, it means that the switch has tripped and it is functioning normally. If the sensor is not working, then you should purchase a new one and replace it. You can watch the following video about replacing the thermal switch.

Above, some breakdowns of the thermos kettle were considered, which can be completely eliminated without the involvement of a specialist. In other cases, the unit should be taken to a specialized service center for repair. But before you hand over the device for repair, ask how much it will cost you. Most often, from a financial point of view, the repair is not justified, since its cost will be within the price of a new thermo-pot.

Thermopot is an invention of modern civilization. This is a symbiosis of an electric kettle and a thermos, working on the principle of a samovar. Like a kettle, a thermopot boils water, and like a thermos, it keeps it hot for a long time. But even this invention sometimes has to be repaired. To start repairing a thermopot with your own hands, you need to study its internal structure and the principle of operation, therefore, a technical instruction is attached to the thermopot.

All such devices are arranged in the same way, and may differ in auxiliary options. The working units of the thermo-pot are placed in the housing, and it must be removed to repair the device. Water is poured into a stainless steel tank with two heating elements in the bottom. One heating element heats water to 100 ° C, the second keeps it hot. All electrical parts are provided with appropriate electrical protection.

An engine is mounted on the side of the body, which supplies water from the reservoir. Also, the device is equipped with electronics, which acts as a time relay for re-boiling water and lowering the mains voltage for the pump and a time relay.

Also, an automatic control board is built into the thermo-pot for reheating, indicating the status of the device and supplying water. A thermal switch, which is duplicated by a thermal fuse, is mounted on the side wall of the tank and on the bottom of the case. This protection prevents the thermal pot from overheating or burning out.

If you know how the thermopot works and where it is located, it will be easier for you to identify the problem and repair the thermopot with your own hands. It does not hurt to familiarize yourself with the electrical diagram of the device - then you can also repair some of the nodes yourself. For example, a power supply circuit for a Vitek thermo-pot can be purchased for about 1000-1200 rubles, and it consists of the following parts and assemblies:

Pulse transformer.
Diode bridge.
Elements of an electrical circuit: capacitors, resistances, diodes, transistors, etc.

So, the Panasonic NC-EH30PWTW thermo-pot costs about 5,000-6,000 rubles, and the replacement of electronics during repairs - more than 2,000 rubles. The pump also costs about 2,000 rubles, so it is cheaper and easier to buy a new device than to repair an old device. However, if you do decide to repair the thermopot yourself, then start with the power cord.

Any deviation from the normal operation of the device can be called a breakdown requiring repair.

To remove the upper case, locate and unscrew the screws on the bottom of the instrument. Next, make a visual inspection of all components for damage - mechanical and thermal, which can most often be restored with a soldering iron.

The next step is to check the thermal switch in the bottom of the case using a normal household tester. A working switch has infinite resistance. Simply replace the non-working unit with a new one, and the easiest way to order it is via the Internet.

The pump can only be disconnected after disconnecting the inlet tube and loosening the fixing bolts. Check it for clogging - often cleaning the impeller and magnet is enough to give the pump a second life.

Also, a standard thermopot, for example, Polaris or Boch, has not one, but several thermal switches, one of which is needed to control the water temperature, and the second protects the device from being turned on if it is empty. The thermal switch is located so that the walls of the tank and the flange are in close contact. A special thermally conductive grease is used for contact.

Do not try to work with an unsuitable soldering iron, removing and replacing the microchip in the same Ideal ID-40TPS model or any other that requires the use of a hot air gun.

The most common malfunctions can often be identified and corrected by yourself. Here are some of them:

The indicators do not light up, the device does not work and does not show signs of life. First, you should check the wiring and electrical connections, fuse and thermostat - these parts and assemblies are the most likely to fail.
Only reheat mode works - main boil does not work. Most likely, the bottom thermal switch is faulty or the main heating element burned out.
The main boiling mode is working, reheating is not. Check the elements of the main board.
The water supply does not work. Breakdown can be caused by a malfunction of the pump power circuit or a breakdown of the pump itself. Often the spiral (TEN) of additional heating burns out, through which voltage is supplied to the pump motor. If the heating elements fail, it is economically unprofitable to repair the thermopot - it is cheaper to buy a new one, for example, scarlett SL-1509.

After completing the repair, check the electrical safety of the device - measure the resistance with the same tester (it should be infinite) between the reservoir and the contacts of the electrical plug, between the body and the contacts of the plug.

If your thermo-pot has a burned out coil (heating element), then it will not work to repair it - you will have to buy a new device. A new heating element costs 2,000 rubles and more, so changing it in an old thermo-pot is simply unprofitable.
Electric cord. There is a block inside the case that fixes the cord. It is necessary to release the cable and check it for a short circuit with a tester.
Microchip. It happens to be feeding and managing. A visual inspection will help identify burnt items that can be replaced with a low-power soldering iron.
Capacitors. The defective part looks swollen and is immediately visible.
Diodes rarely fail, and you can only check their performance by dialing a tester.
Getinax board tracks. Microcracks can be tinned with a layer of tin solder.

The video shows the internal structure of the thermopot and one of the ways to repair it, namely, to replace the pump. Step-by-step video tutorial with detailed explanations along the way. This breakdown is not the most common, but it is one of the difficult problems that you can solve on your own. The video shows the repair of the Panasonic thermopot pump.A thermopot is a useful household appliance that was invented not so long ago. It combines the functions of an electric kettle and a thermos, and is in many ways similar to a samovar. On the one hand, it allows you to quickly boil water, on the other hand, to maintain its temperature for a long time. However, such household appliances need repairs from time to time. If you want to repair the thermal pot yourself, before starting work, find out as much as possible about how this device works and functions. To do this, just read the instructions attached to the device.All heating devices are arranged according to the same scheme, they are distinguished only by additional functionality and the material from which they are made. The functional elements of the device are placed in a protective case, therefore, in order to repair the thermopot with your own hands, you will need to remove the case. The liquid is poured into a stainless steel tank, into the bottom of which two heating elements are integrated - heating elements. The first one heats the liquid to boiling water, and the other heating element is needed to maintain the temperature. All cables are equipped with a protective ceramic coating, which prevents the cables from coming into contact with the steel tank.On the side there is a tubular object (water pump). This pump is needed to supply water. In various modifications, the voltage drop across the motor is in the range of 8-24 V.It is worth noting the electrical board on which the circuit is installed, which is necessary for secondary boiling. In addition, it is required for voltage conversion. Broken contacts on this board can be repaired by hand by simply using a soldering tool. Image - DIY supra thermo pot repair

In addition to this main board, the device also has a control module. It supports the function of the water supply and reheat keys. Also, indicators are connected to the module, showing in which of the available modes the technician is working at the moment.

In a heating device, the thermostat is of great importance. It is mounted on the bottom or side of the water tank. For situations where the thermostat does not work for some reason, a thermal fuse has been created. It excludes the possibility of overheating and breakdown of the thermo-pot when it is accidentally activated with an empty reservoir.

Having found out where all the key elements of the thermopot are located, it becomes much easier to establish the cause of the breakdown and repair the thermopot with your own hands. But it would be more correct to investigate the circuit, to understand all the connections and what parts are to be replaced. In some cases, repairs are impractical, and even specialists do not undertake it.

Let's consider the most common problems and how to fix them.

The indicator panel does not light up and the device does not function at all. In such a situation, it is necessary to inspect all wires and connections, as well as the thermostat and fuse. If there is more than one breakdown, then it will be more difficult to repair the device with your own hands.
Only the secondary boil key functions, but the main primary boil is not performed. In such a situation, a thermal switch located in the bottom is checked.
The main boiling works, but with the secondary boiling, the thermal pot does not work. It is necessary to inspect the module on the main board.
Boiling does not work, only heating is available. Most likely, the heating component burned out, or the wire broke.
The water supply does not work. There is a pump malfunction. Often, this burns out the helical element for auxiliary heating, subsequently, no voltage is applied to the motor.

The body of the equipment is fixed with screws that need to be unscrewed by removing the plug from the socket in advance. On the inside you will find a plank that needs to be examined carefully. All kinds of burned out components, no doubt, indicate the specific location of the malfunction. The cord is carefully separated from the device and checked by a tester. If the cause of the problem is in the cable, you can quickly replace it with your own hands.There are two electronic modules in a standard thermocouple:

For power supply.

For management.

Both must be visually inspected for swollen capacitors, blown resistors, unusable fuses, torn tracks. Replace damaged elements with new ones, contacts and soldering are restored by tinning.But first of all, it is necessary to check the presence of fuses and their integrity. If changing a component does not help, and instead the replaced part also burns out, then the malfunction lies in the electronics, which have failed due to a short circuit. Image - DIY supra thermo pot repair

Resistor ratings are indicated with colored stripes. A common question is how to find out which side the marking begins and which end.

It is much easier with capacitors - they swell. As a rule, beginners looking for methods to fix a thermal sweat are tormented by the question - what does "swell" mean? To understand, it is enough to see a non-working capacitor at least once.

With diodes, it is always more problematic, however, and they break much less often. You just need to separate the component and test it with a tester at both ends to see if it works.

The torn paths of the electronic circuit should be lightly cleaned by removing the varnish layer from them.Then the surface is tinned and covered with solder. It will work as well as before.

The pump pumps water for supply through the tap in manual or automatic mode. The pump is quite simple, it includes a few simple windings that any beginner can figure out. All contacts must be dialed in pairs. Also, a pump dismantled from the body should be tested by applying a certain voltage to it. The 12 volts needed to test the pump can be obtained from simple batteries or a car battery.

We do not recommend changing metal sheets with terminals for others. Protection against overheating is provided by bimetallic switches. The durability of the apparatus largely depends on the functioning of this element. As a rule, there are more than one thermal switches in the heating element, and one of them controls the characteristics of the liquid, and the second does not allow activation when the tank is empty. In such a situation, the heating element component heats up to a temperature of more than one hundred degrees and breaks the power supply circuit.

To improve the contact of the heating elements switches, a special paste is used, similar to the one applied between the fan and the PC processor.

This sensitive component functions quite simply. When the surrounding space warms up to the set temperature, the contacts of the heating element switch open. But as soon as the temperature drops by 15-30 degrees from this point, electrical conductivity resumes. Unfortunately, it is impossible to find out what type these elements of the heating element belong to, simply by looking at the instructions for the thermopot. However, the surfaces of the elements are always marked so that the optimal replacement can be selected.

As a rule, the manufacturer is not satisfied with a simple overheating protection system and equips the equipment with fuses. These are small tubular elements squeezed tightly against the tank wall or glued to it. When the steel tank heats up to a critical temperature, the heater fuse burns out, and the device will not work unless it is replaced. That is why the equipment should be carefully examined in terms of the presence of such defects.

Also, with the help of a tester, the operability of the bimetallic contact is checked. Before starting the test, the heating element should be evaporated.

When the spirals of the heating components burn out, it is simply unprofitable to repair the equipment. The tank is too complex to disassemble on its own, and the insulation and cables are not cheap enough.

After completing the repair work, the safety of the device should be tested. For this purpose, the resistance between the plug and the reservoir, and between the plug and the outer casing should be determined. In a normal situation, it must be infinite.

Can a thermos boil water by itself? Of course it can, if he is a thermopot. This is a combination of an electric kettle and a thermos. He, like any technique, is prone to breakdowns. Therefore, you need to figure out whether it is possible to repair the thermopot on your own?

Thermopot is a smart kettle. The difference is that:

in addition to the water tank, it has an electric pump in its body;
there is a control module;
the flask keeps warm and works like a thermos.

If in an ordinary thermos the hot water gradually cools down, then our unit will keep the set temperature as long as the device is plugged into the outlet. Therefore, all models are equipped with two heaters. One heating element boils water, the second maintains the set temperature. The exception is inexpensive devices that only have a boiling function.

There are models with different thermostats. The device is responsible for the temperature of the liquid. There is a stepless regulator that smoothly raises the heating from 60 to 100 degrees Celsius. And there is a stepped one, which has predefined fixed positions. Many models use only three modes to control temperature readings.

A pump is needed to supply hot water from a container to a cup.

It has several modes of operation:

auto filling;
manual filling;
spill using a lever on the spout.

The control module is mounted under the cover. The board is responsible for re-boiling using a time relay. And also for lowering the mains voltage for the correct operation of the pump and time relay.

Any model has a thermal switch, which is controlled by a thermal fuse. Such protection is needed against overheating and combustion. Parts are attached to the bottom of the device case and the side wall.

If you have no knowledge or experience in electronics repair, it is advisable to contact a service center. But it's still nice to have a general idea of how the thermo-pot circuit works. Then it will be possible to eliminate small malfunctions without special education. For example, repair the power cord, evaporate and replace a faulty capacitor, or replace a burned-out heating element or pump yourself.

The thermo-pot has a power supply unit. It consists of a pulse transformer and a diode bridge. We do not recommend climbing inside. Even specialists are unlikely to want to do repairs. Most likely, they will insist on a complete replacement. Elements of the electrical circuit connecting electrical parts include: capacitors, resistances, diodes, transistors, etc. They are attached to the electrical board.

We have already mentioned the electric pump, control module and thermal protection. They are also included in the scheme. Let's take a look at several repair cases that do not require advanced knowledge.

Before trying to repair anything, you need to properly disassemble the unit. This is necessary, firstly, to find and get to the malfunction. Secondly, to properly assemble the device back. Otherwise, the already repaired thermopot will simply not work.

Almost all models are designed in the same way. Knowing the general principle, you can visually figure it out yourself. In order not to forget anything and not to confuse anything when dismantling, we will go all the way step by step:

What may not work and how to understand the reasons.

None of the indicator lights are on on the display, the kettle does not turn on. We check the power cord and each wire connection. We also check the thermostat, fuse, control module.
No water flows into the cup when the button is pressed. The reason is the pump.
Secondary boiling does not work, the thermos does not heat the water. We check the power supply module of the electrical board.
Basic boil does not work. We check the thermostat.
Heating only works. We check the teng for boiling.

Now in a little more detail - how to check it and what can be done to make everything work again.

The power cord must be ringed with a tester. If there is a problem, then the wire is simply replaced with a new one.

There are two modules in any thermo-pot. One for power, one for control. We look at the details on the getinax boards, and check the boards themselves for microcracks. Burnt parts are charred and capacitors swell.

Parts can be removed and replaced with workers. Solder the cracks with a soldering iron. If the replaced part burns out again, then there is a short circuit somewhere and the whole block will have to be replaced.

To check the condition of the heating element, you first need to unsolder it, and then ring it. If it does burn out, then it is difficult to repair the heating element with your own hands. Easier to replace with a new one.

It may not pump water due to an elementary blockage.

It is not difficult to eliminate such a breakdown by disassembling and cleaning:

Remove the hoses from the pump, disconnect the pump.
Unscrew the impeller from the housing.
Descale the impeller.
Remove the impeller, clean the magnet from dirt.
If, after cleaning, the pump continues to not work, then the winding on the engine may have burned out, then you will have to buy a new pump. When installing the hoses back to the nozzles, secure them securely with clamps to prevent leakage.

It happens that the thermo-pot does not turn off after boiling. And sometimes when you turn it on, the indicator blinks and immediately goes out.In both cases, the thermal switches must be checked. In the normal position, the contacts of the thermal switch are closed. When the maximum temperature is reached, they open. When the temperature drops by an average of 20 degrees, the contacts close again.Check the thermal switch with a tester. To do this, it must be disconnected. At room temperature, the tester should read 0 ohms. If the switch is lowered into boiling water, then - infinity. In case of other indications, the part must be replaced. You also need to check if the thermal paste has dried, which is used for better contact with the surface.In case the protection of the thermal switch does not work, then there is a thermal fuse that will open the circuit at a temperature of 110 to 150 degrees. Sometimes contact is simply not restored on it, then it is necessary to replace the fuse.At the end of the work, check the electrical safety of the repaired device. There should be no contacts on the case, except for ground!

It is quite possible to repair a thermopot with your own hands, even without special knowledge of electrical engineering. The thermopot was invented very recently. After boiling water, the kettle does not keep it hot for long. It is the thermopot that helps the water temperature to be maintained for a long time. You can always drink tea, and you don't have to boil it and wait. But, like any technical tool, a thermopot fails, and you have to repair it. How to do it yourself later in the article.

In ancient times, a thermopot would have been called a samovar, now it is affectionately called a potter. He can not only boil water, but also keep it hot, like a thermos. But if the potter breaks down, it is not necessary to call the master and carry it to the repair. The work can be done independently. Before using each household appliance, you must read the instructions. Understand how to use the item correctly and what will prolong its use. For example, a thermopot, according to statistics, often breaks: an indicator panel, a key for primary boiling, secondary boiling, boiling function and water supply.

All these breakdowns occur due to the effect of high temperature on all elements of the device. For example, the housing that protects the entire device should not heat up during boiling.

Thermopots data are very popular: Polaris, Vitek, Elenberg, Scarlett and Alisa. The thermo-pot circuit is light enough for a non-professional electrician to figure it out. But all the same, the scheme is a scheme, and it is not recommended to climb into it without minimal preparation. Therefore, if the thermo-pot does not boil water at all or does not perform the functions of a thermos, then first you need to study its scheme and understand the principle of operation.

Before proceeding with the repair of a thermopot, you should familiarize yourself with its diagram

Thermopot operation scheme:

All elements are located under the protective casing;
The water tank is made of stainless steel;
Heating coils are installed at the bottom;
The thermopot heats up with one spiral, the second maintains the temperature of the water;
Thermo-pot pumps water using a water pump.

The thermopot works as follows: after pouring water into the thermopot itself, the lid closes and the device turns on. One coil begins to boil the water. A thermal fuse turns off the product as soon as the water reaches the desired temperature. The water cools down to the desired temperature set by the user. The temperature itself is maintained by a second heating element. Thermal fuse recommend using Sheng Ping SPF 139 reusable.Therefore, if a thermal pot breaks down, you will have to completely disassemble it, remove the cover with a button, check the heating element and establish why it broke.

Products from different manufacturers have their own characteristics. For example, the Vitek device has a dedicated button for filling the cup with water. This button is also called a pump or pump. With its help, you can draw hot water into a cup without getting burned. The circuit of the Vitek thermocouple motherboard is called RSP22, it is available and easy to do in special services.

If the thermo-pot constantly breaks down, then you need to take it for repair or deal with the problem yourself. It is better to start repairing the kettle by disassembling the case, remove the lower plastic part, and unscrew all the bolts. After that, access to all electronics is opened. The electrical component of the product is open to fault determination. It is of fundamental importance to repair the thermal sweat after a complete analysis. After evaluating all the components with a view in the instructions, you can establish the causes of the breakdown - maybe the stainless steel tank has broken.

One of the frequent breakdowns of a thermopot is a breakdown of the indicator panel.

The reasons why the thermo pot does not work:

The display panel does not turn off. The opposite also happens, a complete lack of operation of the device and the display panel. In this case, you need to check all the wires and contacts. Check the boil regulator.
The main switch does not work. Check all temperature switches and if the wiring diagram of the switch located at the bottom is working properly.
The water is heated, but not boiled. When boiling is turned on, the thermal pot turns off and does not perform its main function of boiling. In this case, the contact is checked for rupture or completely the boiling part.

If the thermopot does not heat due to the breakdown of 2 spirals, then there is no point in repairing it. It will take a long time and a large amount of money. With a lot of shortcomings, it is easier to take a new one, because repairing the wiring and the tank in total will be expensive.

Most importantly, check the settings on the control panel. Perhaps the boiling function is turned off, and the thermo pot is turned on only in heating mode. Then it turns out that there is no malfunction, which means that the elimination of the broken part is not necessary. The settings are ok, but the water is not boiling - check the temperature sensor and heater. If the elements do not work well, then they must be replaced with new ones.

How to disassemble a thermopot:

Remove the top element - the cover. Then remove the ring securing the inner tank to the body.
Remove all fasteners - screws and bolts.
Remove the bottom of the thermopot.

In order to disassemble the thermopot, you must remove the upper element and the bottom of the device

A screwdriver is useful for all these manipulations. To get to the electronic filling of the device, you need to remove all the elements, and only then can the device be repaired. The thermo pot can perform many functions, for example, replace the thermo mug. But, what is the use of this, if the water is not boiled there - neither brew tea, nor coffee.

But, before disassembling the device, you need to know exactly where what is attached and how many parts were there before the disassembly.

The thermal switches have a boiling function. They are usually located at the bottom of the product or along the walls. In order for the thermal switch not to melt, it is treated with a special solution. To test the element for work, you need to pull it out and leave it on, screw the wires to it, and place them in the water. With all this, you need to check the resistance. It should not be outside the water, if it has increased in the water, it means that the part is working and the breakage is not in it. If the opposite is true, then the thermal switch is faulty.

It happens that the thermopot works, boils, heats and keeps the water warm as much as necessary, but it is impossible to pour water - the valve is broken, and the water supply is impossible. And it's not at all clear which option is better: a broken heater or a feed function.Such a breakdown indicates a malfunction of the pump (pump) for pumping water into the mug. Then it is necessary to disassemble the machine and examine the suspicious element.

How to get to the pump:

After removing the metal housing, disconnect the tubing from the pump. If you find scale on the wires, you need to get rid of it.
Disconnect the pump itself from the tank and housing, while trying not to lose all the small parts.
As soon as the pump and the electric motor are disconnected, remove all scale that interferes with the correct operation of the device.

If the thermopot does not pump water, then it is necessary to replace the pump.

Like any household appliance, a thermopot needs care and attention. You can descale it at home using citric acid, acetic acid, and baking soda. You need to clean the thermopot immediately, with the appearance of the first scale. If the product begins to emit suspicious sounds, then cleaning is all the more necessary. This is the first signal for help.

If after all these manipulations there is no water supply, then it is necessary to change the pump itself - to buy a new one. There is no point in restoring a damaged pump.

Soda and acid cleaning is carried out in accordance with the size of the product itself. You can also use special cleaning agents, just carefully study the composition. Citric acid has its drawbacks - sometimes it is not enough for one kettle. But after boiling water with citric acid, it is important to then wipe the kettle with a soft cloth. There is no smell after boiling, it can be combined with vinegar. Acetic acid cleans from limescale instantly, but it is very difficult to get rid of the aroma afterwards. It takes several boils after and cleaning with a special tool, so it is better to clean with a mixture of citric acid and vinegar.

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Thermopot is a very convenient thing for giving and rest. The water will be hot all the time, in cold weather you will not have to constantly run to the stove and put the kettle on. You can just walk up and pour hot water, it makes life easier and reduces the waste of time. Having put the thermo pot in the morning, after a shower, you can immediately drink coffee, without worrying about the kettle boiling and the instant cooling of the water.