Thermal fuses are located in glass fiber protection tubes. By checking the resistance of each of them, you can determine the health of the elements. In the event of a malfunction, the thermostat must be replaced. After repairs, the resistance of the circuit should be checked in each mode of operation of the heater.
TEN (tubular electric heater) for an oil heater consists of a shell - a tubular metal body, nichrome spiral and quartz sand, which insulates the spiral from the tube walls. At both ends, the tube is sealed with bushings through which the heating coil leads are connected. They have no polarity and are arbitrarily connected to the network.
The most common malfunction in the heating element is a break in the spiral heating element (nichrome thread). To check, you need to touch the tester's probes to the terminals of the heating element in the resistance measurement mode. When the multimeter 1 appears on the display (the resistance is equal to infinity), a thread break is diagnosed.
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If it turned out that the heating element for the oil heater burned out, then repairs would be required, which would be associated with great difficulties. This is the search for a heating element of the desired configuration and power, its pressing out of the case with the accompanying oil drainage process, replacement of the heating element, oil filling, sealing, etc. It is easier to buy another heater, since repairs will result in almost the same amount.
The sensor for the fall or vertical position of the oil heater is a system of a weight and a spring-loaded arm in equilibrium. When the heater is in a vertical position, the weight acts on the lever, and that on the limit switch that closes the network. When the position of the oil heater is changed, the balance of the system is disturbed, and the switch breaks the contact.
2 wires leave the position sensor. Measuring the resistance of the sensor in different positions, determine its serviceability.If the oil heater is in a vertical position, the resistance at the ends of the sensor should be zero. In a tilted state, the resistance should be equal to infinity. If the measurements are abnormal, then the sensor should be replaced.
Then I opened the transformer of the network adapter, there was a thermal fuse in the open circuit, it looks like this:
Found how it works, a rather complicated structure, which means it can be repaired.
Easier to replace with a conventional fusible.
AK : can be repaired.
If this thermal fuse was on the primary of the transformer, then boldly short it. They burn out (in my opinion) due to a voltage surge and an ordinary fuse perfectly replaces it, but I prefer to insert one vein of the screen from a shielded Soviet wire, Yesterday I passed the microwave after such a repair, the day before yesterday a refrigerator, and there were also washing machines, etc. Very often on the trance board. soldered with three wires (primary). When dialing, one output is broken. There was an assumption that these are two windings of 110 volts, this was previously practiced, but when the jumper was soldered and the trance was turned on through the LATR, the current h.x. increased. not found.
I opened the fuse to the bottom, did not find there any mechanics with a spring, two tinned pins and some kind of powder, similar to rosin, melts with a soldering iron. So, just a fusible metal jumper was soldered between two pins.
The adapter has been plugged into the outlet for an hour, cold, not even warm. This adapter is most likely a mobile phone charger, it says MOTOROLA 4.8 V 350 mA, output through a resistor, and at idle 12 V. I'm going to power a homemade room thermostat for a gas heating boiler from it.
In version Graciano , about the cause of the burnout, I do not believe. I believe barsenal , and your experience. This transformer will still work. Of course, if possible, I will buy a thermal fuse and replace this one with a homemade one in the adapter. Then I will test it for temperature. In the meantime, temporarily, let it work.
barsenal : If this thermal fuse was on the primary of the transformer, then boldly short it.
Do-it-yourself oil heater repair is quite real. Many owners successfully restore the functionality of these heat sources without resorting to the services of craftsmen.
When starting to repair any electrical appliance, you need to know two things - how it works and how it works. The oil heater consists of:
metal case;
Heating element (heating element);
control unit;
connecting wires.
Oil is poured into the heater body, which, when turned on, is heated by the heating element. Heat is transferred to the walls of the case, and from them to the heated room. When a certain temperature is reached, the control unit is triggered and heating stops. The cycle repeats as long as the heater is connected to the mains. As a result, a constant temperature is maintained in the heated room.
There are not so many reasons why the oil heater does not work. They can be conditionally divided into two parts - electrical and mechanical. Failure in work electrical equipment most often falls on heating elements and control communications - thermal relay, switch, thermal fuses. There may be a problem in the wiring, but this is extremely rare.
TO mechanical damage includes various holes in the housing, as well as the formation of cavities on it through which oil flows out. As a rule, these are the fruits of corrosion activity. Determining the type of malfunction is not a big deal. Mechanical breakdowns are always associated with oil stains under the heater. All other faults are related to the electrical part.
To repair a heater, you first need to create conditions for this. One of the main prerequisites for a successful renovation will be preparation for it. First of all, you need to choose a place where you will disassemble the heater. It should be large enough and well lit. A garage or a separate room is best suited for this.
Then the tool and accessories are prepared. Since the device of the heater does not represent any complexity, then the tool will be the most ordinary one. A set of screwdrivers, pliers and side cutters, a small hammer and an awl - this will be enough for repairs. Before repairing, you must have a soldering iron, a tester, WD-40 liquid, grease (Graphite or Litol-24) and a little alcohol to wipe the contacts. There must be a clean rag. If the cause of the breakdown is determined in advance, then spare parts are needed to replace the failed parts.
The question of how to repair an oil heater with your own hands arises for everyone when the device stops working. Meanwhile, there is absolutely no difficulty in this matter. First of all, it is necessary to carry out disassembly in order to get to the object of repair. To do this, detach the control panel from the case. As a rule, it is fastened with latches. But there is also a fastening of another kind. For example screws or staples.
Therefore, first you need to carefully inspect the heater in order to determine how the panel is attached. Then carefully, without making great efforts, remove it. Disassembly should be done without brute force as all fasteners are made of plastic.
De-energize the heater before starting repairs.
Checking the power cord and switch ... From this it is necessary to begin work on restoring the operability of the oil heater. The fact is that during long-term operation at the connection points, the wires usually burn out, and the contact is broken. In this case, it is enough to disconnect the wire and strip it, and at the same time the connection point. After that, reassemble everything. Contact re-established. We check with a tester whether this is really so. At the same time, you need to check the power cord for a wire break. Rarely, but such a malfunction occurs. This is done simply using the same tester.
Next stage - inspection of all contact connections in the control unit. It is necessary to very carefully inspect each contact for burning, oxidation and loosening of the fastening. A screwdriver, a fine-grained abrasive cloth, and a cotton swab moistened with alcohol will be sufficient for the repair. It is possible that somewhere you will need a soldering iron to solder the wiring that has come off.
It may happen that arose malfunction in the thermal relay , or temperature regulator. In this case, you need to carefully remove and disassemble it. After disassembly, the bimetallic plate, which is inside, is removed and replaced with a new one. The thing is that there can be no more malfunctions there. After replacing the plate, the relay will restore its potential.
Repair of thermal fuses will consist in checking their performance and replacing them, if necessary, with serviceable ones. Checking is a simple dialing test by a tester. There may be several thermal fuses, or they are also called thermostats. We check each one.
Left check the condition of heating elements ... To do this, it is enough to measure their resistance with a tester. It should be less than 1 kΩ. One connection is used to check for an open circuit. Thus, if the tester shows a lot of resistance or shows nothing at all, then it's time to change the heating element.
This completes the check of the electrical part of the heater. Moving on to mechanical failures.
Of these, only one is relevant - oil leak ... In this case, the heater will have to be disassembled to drain the remaining oil inside. If there is damage to the case, it is important to determine exactly where it happened. Then you need to carefully clean the found place with a sandpaper. This is done to determine the repair method. If it turns out that the hole is small, and there are no traces of corrosion around, then one of the repair options would be to screw a self-tapping screw or a suitable screw diameter into the hole. Another option would be to use a special sealant called "cold welding". Before use, he kneads in his hands to the state of plasticine.
A rolled bead of sealant is placed over the hole and carefully leveled to the surface. After 15-20 minutes, it hardens so much that you can use the heater. It will be somewhat more difficult to eliminate the hole that has formed from the rust. In this case, you will need to sand the entire rusty spot to a "live" metal. Then again you need to carefully examine and estimate the size of the hole. If it is not very large, then it can be soldered. If the hole is large, then here you need to use welding, that is, apply a patch and scald it. In this case, the repair of the oil heater will be more serious and will require not only a special tool, but also skills.
The heater body is brazed with brass solder or its substitute. Not with tin. Welding is best done with a semiautomatic device. That is, with a wire, not an electrode.
As you can see, repairing oil heaters, and even with your own hands, is within the power of anyone who is familiar with the basics of electrical engineering and plumbing. Therefore, before throwing away the heater, you need to carefully inspect it. If the breakdown is minor, it will be much cheaper to repair than buying a new one. .
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Such a necessary and important device for preserving the proper look of things, as an iron is, for sure, in every home. Everyone knows the main points of its correct use, but, unfortunately, not everyone understands how it can be repaired independently in the event of a minor breakdown, because it is better to repair an old iron than spend money on a new one. The reason for the failure of the iron may be the breakdown of one of its constituent elements.
To carry out repairs on their own, the home craftsman will need a tester with a light bulb and a set of screwdrivers.
In any case, when repairing an iron, even if only the cord is to blame for the malfunction, you will have to disassemble the device, which is also a small difficulty, because design solutions are now such that all screws and connecting elements are hidden as diligently as possible. While the designs of different irons differ, there are a few common details that will help you to disassemble the body of the device. So, it is worth remembering that the body of the iron is always fastened to the sole with screws, and not just latches, therefore, at the junction of the sole and the body, you should look for them carefully. The cogs can be hidden under the water tank, decorative plugs, or other decorative elements of the appliance.
First you need to carefully examine the iron and check the operation of all indicators on it. If these indicator lights do not work, then the cause of the malfunction is most often the cord of your iron.
It is the cord, or rather its inconsistency and non-working condition, that is to blame for almost every fifth iron breakdown. Therefore, in order to check if this is the reason, you must remove the back cover from the iron. A conventional tester can be used to check the integrity of the cord.
You can test the cord for operation by leaning one end of the tester with a light bulb against the plug, and leaning the battery against the other end of the cord. If the light is off, then the problem is in the cord. It needs to be shortened and checked again.
And if the light is on after the experiment, then the reason is not in the cord, which means that the iron will need to be disassembled further. But before proceeding with further examination and study of all the elements of the iron for their performance, it is worth using the recommendation, according to which it is better to draw a diagram for connecting all the wires, which did not become a problem when it would be necessary to assemble the iron and bring it back to its original state.
First, you need to disconnect all the wires from the iron, and only then start trying to consider the thermal fuse, which is possible only after disassembling the device.
It is this part of the iron that is to blame for half and even most of those cases when the iron refuses to turn on and work. To check this particular part for correct operation, it is necessary to connect the dialing wires to it from both sides: if the light does not light up, then the fuse is to blame for the malfunction. The way out of this situation may be to remove this fuse and short-circuit in this part of the electrical circuit. This should not be a cause for concern, because if there is a correctly working thermostat, the absence of a fuse cannot cause danger.
First, you can try to remove the outer handle of the temperature controller by prying it, for example, with a knife and using very little force. If this cannot be done, then it is better to immediately proceed to removing the device case, unscrewing the screws. When all the screws are unscrewed, it will be possible to examine all the "insides" of the iron and try to find the malfunction already here.
If all the other elements that were previously checked according to the scheme described above are in good order, then the fault of the iron breakdown, unfortunately, is in the heating element. Most often, the heating element is very difficult to remove from the iron and, therefore, replace, which also affects the financial component of the repair. Here the craftsmen are advised to send the iron for recycling.
Of course, other elements of the iron can also be repaired. So in the steaming system, for example, scale can form, but it is much easier to get rid of it than from the problems described above. But it is even easier to prevent it by using only distilled or boiled water.
A simple solution if an iron breaks down is to buy a new one in the store, which does not always suit a man who can hold a screwdriver and a soldering iron in his hands. Some problems can be eliminated by replacing the elements or by connecting the burnt contacts.
To do this, you need to know the structure of the iron, and clearly follow the instructions for repairing an electrical appliance with your own hands.
Before running to the store, you need to figure out whether it is possible to eliminate the cause of the malfunction, to try to get the "comrade" to work normally. Only when it becomes clear that the iron cannot be repaired can you please yourself with a new purchase!
To successfully repair the iron, let's get acquainted with its device. Regardless of the manufacturer, the device has in its design in various versions:
High quality durable plastic body;
A massive metal sole, which can have holes when steaming is provided in the iron structure;
Heating element - heating element;
Power plug;
Power cord;
Sole temperature regulator (thermostat);
Overheating protection (fuse);
To open and repair a broken device, you will need the following equipment:
Flat and curly screwdrivers;
Sharp knife;
Control and measuring device - multimeter or LED continuity;
Pliers;
Soldering iron, flux, solder;
Insulating material or heat pipes;
Sandpaper.
In order not to break the device completely, you need to open it correctly. Everything is not as simple as it seems at first glance. The design of the iron provides for both latches and screw fasteners. We start with the visible connections. We take a screwdriver in our hands and unscrew the screws, disassemble the plug.
In modern irons, three wires with different colors are used to connect to the network. Red is usually a phase, the other two are neutral wire and ground. If there is no visible damage to the contacts in the plug box (rupture, melting), we continue to study the malfunctions further.
We open the back panel from the side of the power cord. We look at the terminal box. When we visually see that the cord is melted, the contact has burned out, we do not disassemble the iron further.
We fix the problems. It is enough to strip the wire, connect it to the terminal box. Using the device, we check the integrity of the electrical circuit. When everything is in order, the iron can be used.
When the problems are not in the power cord and plug, we continue to disassemble the iron further. Slowly and carefully pull the buttons, knobs and levers up. If there are screws under them, we also unscrew them. We pry the latches with a wide knife.
In order not to break them, do not pull the case from the sole when something rests against it and does not allow it to be removed. First, we squeeze out and unscrew everything that interferes. The latches are very fragile, we disassemble the device carefully!
When repairing an iron on the Philips and Tefal models, under the removable side cover on the side of the power cord, we find and unscrew additional screws. It is necessary to remove all fasteners, release the removable housing from all latches!
When there are no flaws on the side of the power supply cord, and it does not require replacement, we check the main nodes in order until we find a breakdown:
Heating element performance. We use a device for continuity of electrical circuits. When everything is in order with the heating element (we receive sound, arrow or light confirmation), we continue to look for faults further. If it burns out, there is no point in replacing it, it is better to buy a new iron! Repairs can be more expensive.
We check the integrity of the thermostat circuit. When the contacts are burnt, the iron will either not heat up at all or will not turn off, it will work continuously. We take sandpaper or a nail file and repair the thermostat.
Carefully disconnect the stuck together contacts, clean them of carbon deposits, try not to bend the plates on which they are attached. If we can't fix the problems, we decide what to do next - buy a spare part, a new thermostat, or - an iron.
Check if the fuse has blown. We call. If necessary, we solder it, replace it with a similar one. The fuse is very important. Do not exclude it from the electric circuit of the iron, short-circuit the connection without it. If the thermostat is faulty, it will simply burn out, protect it from fire.
We check the water spray system and the condition of the steam generator. We clean the iron from scale. We repair mini-pumps that supply water to the sprinkler and the sole. It is possible that its mechanisms are stuck and require cleaning.
It is important to carefully check the integrity of the system, to find out what is not working and why. Try to eliminate the reasons for the complete inoperability of the device or abnormally working functions - steaming, spraying, shutdown.
During the repair process, all checks should be done when the iron is disconnected from the mains. Some authoritatively advise looking for a phase when applying current to the device when it is turned on. This must be done carefully enough so as not to accidentally close the zero contact and phase with the same screwdriver. You can get a painful electric shock.
Do not forget about personal safety, put the iron on a flat surface, do not try to repair and check its performance with wet hands.
When, after all the checks, it turns out that the electrical appliance cannot be repaired, with a clear conscience we run to the store to buy a new one!
Video (click to play).
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