DIY 4g94 injection pump repair

In detail: DIY repair of fuel pump 4g94 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

- = andry = - »Mon, 22 Jun 2009 13:53

2001 Aspire 4G94
The CHECK lights up, error P0190.
Starts up normally, turns on XX do not float.
The rpm does not rise above 4000 in neutral, it twitches during acceleration, barely eats.
The pressure shows in the region of 0.6V at XX.
When the pedal is pressed sharply to the floor, it sneezes, dips appear, and loud bangs are heard.

After cleaning the throttle valve and replacing the mesh in the tank, replacing the fuel filter, two filters for the inlet and outlet, no results.
Candles are normal.
After cleaning, the pressure was checked with a voltmeter on the pressure sensor, in the range from 0.8V - 0.9V at XX, at 3000 rev / s it rises to 1.2V - 1.3V.

And yet, while the CHECK is off, the car “does not go”, as soon as the CHECK light comes on, the car drives as usual, the revs rise briskly.
As soon as the light goes out, it does not gain momentum again, it twitches during acceleration, what can it be?

He took off the injection pump, the nut was unscrewed by hand.
The plates were unsatisfactory, they removed the plaque, cleaned, sanded.
Collected, put back, zero effect.
pressure as it was 0.8 - 1.0 Volts at idle, and remained.
I tried to tighten the pressure bolt on the injection pump, no changes.

Now the P0170 code comes on.
P0190 has not appeared yet, but it's strange why, because the pressure is 1.2 volts.

Please give advice on what else can be done?
There are specialists in Tyumen who have already restored the high-pressure fuel pump, please respond?

Jonnik »Mon, 22 Jun 2009 14:00

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VOVAN-YuAO 10 Feb 2010

MuhameD (10.2.2010, 23:11) wrote:

VOVAN-YuAO (10.2.2010, 23:14) wrote:

1xlopok (10.2.2010, 23:18) wrote:

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SaLut 10 Feb 2010

MuhameD (10.2.2010, 23:11) wrote:

forgive me for asking, instead of answering,
but have you not met manuals or photo reports on the entoy procedure?
* going to change this weekend - it's scary to even watch.

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Reket 11 Feb 2010

MuhameD (10.2.2010, 23:11) wrote:

Call this tuber 89270200215, his name is Valera, he fumbles at them, everything is just meries with tension and turns this wheel (but more precisely where and how he will tell you).
How we changed the injection pump from the first to the second can be read here below
o. t = 0 & start = 0

Ehhh
Post has been edited Reket: 11 February 2010 - 01:46

MuhameD (10.2.2010, 23:11) wrote:

To the right - an increase in pressure, to the left - a decrease.
After I twisted in the direction of increasing idle speed, they subjectively became a little higher.

Anyway, what's the point of twisting something if you don't know the pressure at the moment?

Here's how you can measure the pressure in pictures Measuring the pressure of the injection pump

Colleagues, help me, my pressure on the injection pump dropped to 30 atmospheres and floats within 10 more. The old forum had a whole section on the pump and its repair with photos. If anyone has a photo report on the removal and repair of the pump, post a link or post it here.

Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics

The old forum has never had a photo report on the repair of fuel injection pump. I feel the time has come. While I will deal with the pictures (insert them on the forum), prepare:
1) a bottle of Galosha gasoline (clean, unleaded, so as not to be poisoned).
2) 6 sheets of good skin (I take some kind of Swedish one) 1000,1500,2000, each with 2 sheets (better aluminum oxide, sometimes silicon carbide, it is softer, written on the back side).
3) a piece (approximately 300x300) of thick glass, at least 8mm, I have 10mm. You can ask the manager of any large supermarket - there are always broken windows.
If possible, it is best to use a tared sanding plate. Work with glass anyway on a flat hard surface. I have a marble slab.
4) cotton swabs, clean rags.
5) the keys are different, incl. under the "asterisks". Special key for pressure regulator.

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No key, don't even try to disassemble the regulator. No ersatz substitutes are suitable.

Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics

Change, for a start, the filter at the entrance to the injection pump.

Machine 1.8 GDI 1998 y / in mechanics

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On the image:
1) High pressure sensor
2) Discharge of a part of the high pressure into the return line
3) High pressure outlet to the fuel rail
4) Pressure regulator block
5) Block fur. drive
6) The fuel injection pump unit itself.

The fuel pump filter changed 2 times, before the winter-spring seasons. This is not a problem, I only started swimming for a week, I went to the Lipetsk Japanka for diagnostics - the verdict is pressure in the high-pressure fuel pump, respectively, the officials only have the replacement of the high-pressure fuel pump at a price of 35t / rub. on the old forum I read about the ability to extend the life of the pump

Let's continue.
After separation from the engine, we have a separate section of the regulator (removed earlier) and two sections (mechanical drive and injection pump),
fastened together.

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We unscrew the 4 long bolts holding the sections together and helping ourselves a little with a flat screwdriver, like a lever,
we separate them. It is better to flush the drive with gasoline and fill it with clean engine oil. Little oil, 3-4 tablespoons
spoons will still flow out through the oil channel hole. Rotate the eccentric shaft for lubrication.
Now, in fact, the injection pump.

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Using the E8 head, unscrew the two bolts under the "asterisk". We unscrew evenly, 3-4 turns each, pressing firmly
unscrew the cover by hand, because there is a rather strong compressed spring under it. We remove the cover and see.

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Well, to be precise, this is a photo of the 3rd generation injection pump, but they differ only in the fastening castellated nut.
In the second generation, there is no nut, and the inner bag is not compressed by anything.
Carefully remove and fold the rubber rings separately. Using a thin screwdriver and tweezers
we take out the ring located in the groove in the wall of the chamber well. Without removing the ring, we will not analyze it further.

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Using two flat screwdrivers, using them as levers, we take out the corrugation. With corrugation in general, we handle it carefully!
After the corrugation, we take out the plunger itself.

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It is better to put all the removed parts in a plastic container.
(ice cream bucket, small basin) filled with gasoline. I use a 1: 1 "Galosha" mixture for washing
with acetone. I carefully wash the glands with a stiff toothbrush. Especially the grooves of the corrugation.

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Once the plunger pair (crimp and center plunger) has been cleaned, a small but much needed test should be performed. Its result will show
in general, the expediency of further actions. It is necessary to salivate the thumb of the right hand well, put the plunger on it, with the pad on the finger, so that the finger is guaranteed to cover the central hole and put the corrugation on the plunger from above. In a successful case, the corrugation will not fall on the plunger, the air cushion will interfere. The resulting knot must be squeezed several times between the thumb and forefinger. Three times he has to spring back.
This effect indicates a satisfactory condition of the plunger pair. If the corrugation freely descends on the plunger and is removed from it (remember the central hole closed with your finger), then further actions (grinding the plates, dancing with a tambourine, reading prayers) will be completely useless. High pressure fuel pump for discharge.

Let's continue.
Suppose that we have complete order with the plunger pair. This means that you need to disassemble the pump further.
We take out a spring with a plunger travel stop from the well

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And, finally, “our charm-s-s-t” - three plates.

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Well, I don't think there is much to tell about the state of these. And so everything is visible.
For those who are not visible and incomprehensible, for those there are they, only after grinding.

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We take a thick glass, at least 8 mm, or better 10 mm, put it on something, also even and solid,
for example, on the desktop in the kitchen (hello to spouse!) and, applying successively, skins 1000, 1500 and 2000,
with circular and spiral movements, we remove all workings, saddles and cavities on two thick plates. Average,
thin plate, gently grind at once 2000th. AND NO PASTES. Grinding, polishing, lapping.

Here are the pluses of the new forum, excellent instructions. Thank you And at the same time the question: when warming up a cold car

in the area of the rear left wheel, away from the gas tank, some whistling is heard, this is normal or not.

Here are the pluses of the new forum, excellent instructions. Thank you And at the same time the question: when warming up a cold car

in the area of the rear left wheel, away from the gas tank, some whistling is heard, this is normal or not.

I can assume several situations - the neck of the gas tank is rotten and the intake air siphon quietly;
not a whistle, but a buzz - the pump engine dies, there is little gasoline in the tank, remove the back seat and listen to the flask

Thank you. I am more inclined to believe that the neck is rotten, the whistle is not even a whistle, but the hiss is as if the wheel is poisoning. Is it possible to inspect the neck without removing the tank?

At a minimum, use a flashlight to shine through the filler hole.
I could be wrong, but from the lift, from below, removing the left wheel.
"Video stethoscope", there are many decent service stations, for examining the cylinder walls through the spark plug holes.

Oops. but how to determine what generation of injection pump is worth? ... on fault, can you? VIN: XMCLNDA2AWF049266

If the pump unit is located at the end of the engine, between the engine and the air filter box, then this is only
1st and 2nd generation.
Here's the first one.

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And if the pump block is located on the side of the engine, between the flap,
then this is the third generation, "tablet".
By VIN you can, if there is a guarantee that no one has changed anything
Actually, you are in the second generation.

what is the acceptable minimum plate thickness after grinding? and is there an order of the plates? Is it worth turning the pressure regulator on the injection pump (there is a hexagon in my block under the number 4 in the figure) and if it costs how much and in which direction?

you can read here, for a general development, so to speak

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You are unlikely to remove 0.1 from the entire package. There is no permissible (within reasonable limits), the wear of the plates is removed by the clamp of the top cover. And that is why between the cover and the body
a gap of about 0.5-0.7 mm remains. In especially "suspicious" cases, I put a 0.1-0.2mm copper foil ring on top of a wide corrugation ring (massive body). Order
the succession of the plates, of course, is and it is very important. I will not speak in principle, everything is clear there after a moment's reflection (well, you can't chew everything like that). Though,
I recently read on Meka's website, and laughed and got angry at the same time, the person just managed to put (I have no other word) inside the parts, twist everything and put it on the car.
And I spent a week figuring out why there was no pressure! And all this with claims! Regarding the regulator, there will be a continuation of the report. In the meantime, I'll say this, the factory position of the adjustment screw is
flush (under the cut) with the surface of the main plug, the one for which a special key is needed. And you can twist it only by connecting the tester to the pressure sensor. Necessary
set at 2000rpm 2.9-3.0v. When the pump starts to die, you can slightly raise the dropped pressure with this screw, again, only according to the tester. But, at the same time, it grows
pressure and high revs.

Of course, I'm not a "deer", but when I have never done it, I prefer to first learn about the intricacies and pitfalls, so that later I do not get into the situation, in Lebedyan no one wants to take my djidai, and since then I will have to do it myself and so as not to get paid.

Will you wait until evening? There will be a continuation of the report. With assembly. No offense, if you do it carefully and think a little, you can't make a mistake. And friends are helpers with beer
close so as not to run.

Pumps from the second generation are more reliable than the first generation high pressure fuel pumps. This is a very high-tech unit, and quite capricious in terms of fuel cleanliness. The main malfunctions of the high-pressure fuel pump arise due to untimely scheduled maintenance to replace the fuel filter and the intake grid in the tank, in addition, as an additional filtering of the fuel, it is recommended to install an additional fuel filter before entering the high-pressure fuel pump. During normal operation, the average resource of this type of injection pump is about 250,000 km, without its repair. In this case, as a rule, the plunger pair in the pump is in good condition, mainly the plate valves are worn out. sometimes there are cases of self-loosening of the fastening nut (pill-type pumps) tightening the entire structure (plates, plunger, corrugation), and if measures are not taken in time, the restoration of the plates will be very laborious. as the plates lose their shape and become uneven due to the constant shock load.

So, what should you pay attention to on the operation of the motor in order to prevent critical wear of the injection pump, and take action in time.
The very first sign if the revolutions began to float with the load turned on (position R or D) in the range from 600 to about 1200 rpm, with a frequency of 5-10 seconds
The engine does not develop rpm before cutoff, or develops them sluggishly
When the load is on (D or R), the check lamp is on.
With all these signs, it makes sense to check the fuel pressure. If no diagnostic scanner is available, the pressure can be checked using a conventional voltmeter. The pressure rating is for 4G93 non-turbo 3.0V (4.8MPA) 3.2V (5.0) MPA for Turbo motors. 2.9 in (4.7 for 4G15, when the pressure drops less than 2.6 in the ECU, it gives a command to increase the speed to stabilize the pressure, and so every time it drops less than 2.6 in). Having caught the normal value, the ECU gives a command to decrease the speed, and if it falls to xx, it repeats the command to increase them.
The signal can be read with a voltmeter from the middle contact of the fuel pressure sensor located on the fuel rail. In this case, the measurement must be carried out on a warm engine and on D or R, since under load, the speed begins to drop to 500-550 and the injection pump loses pressure if it is defective.

The ECU, on these cars, even in the worst case, a complete loss of high pressure (work only at the pressure created by the submersible pump), switches to the emergency program, and increases the opening time of the nozzle, by an interval of up to 3.2 milliseconds, instead of 0.51 milliseconds. (Mode of the lean mixture) at idle, and does not allow the engine to develop at more than 2000 rpm. min, this allows you to get to the car service.
Typical trouble codes for a drop in pressure or its instability according to the OBD 2 protocol, 0190 is an abnormal fuel pressure in the system and 0170 is a malfunction of the fuel supply system.
Pressure instability can also be associated with injector failure. If the nozzle needle hangs in the open position, there will be no pressure in the system, while, as a rule, gasoline enters the oil through the piston. When starting, the engine wedges a little, there is a risk of getting a water hammer. It is recommended to clean the injectors with Vince without removing them from the car every 30,000 km, before changing the engine oil.

Before you panic and get upset, you can try to do the following: unscrew the low-pressure fuel supply pipe before entering the high-pressure fuel pump, and clean the microfilter, check the condition of the fuel inlet mesh in the tank, if the fuel immersion filter has not been replaced for a long time (over 35,000-40,000 km) analyze the state of cleanliness of the fuel tank. The nominal pressure created by the low-pressure pump is 3.8-4.0 kg. If these measures did not lead to the desired result and the pressure did not return to normal, then the injection pump must be repaired or replaced.

Regarding the increased planting, through the EGR valve, the least costly and effective way to get rid of this problem is to install a solid partition between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, which prevents soot from entering the intake manifold. At the same time, the ECU does not see such alterations and the motor operates normally.

[Message modified by user 12/15/2009 11:07 am]

There is a new pump, we bought it for 40,000. I will give it for 15,000r

Added after 18 seconds
2nd generation

Are you guys kidding me? 🙂 I saw the injection pump, probably more than the whole club put together

And than the second generation from 3 (it is the 4th), I, as it were, know 🙂 But on the same 2.4 GDI Galantian seat for the injection pump drive is the SAME, because the head has not changed during the entire production time. So to put a third generation instead of 2 is quite possible, there are not so many differences. And you don't need to break anything, including your head.

Given:
Pajero IO 2000 4g94 GDI mileage 72 thousand

The check light is on, difficulties with the plant, diagnostics in a certain company showed that it was necessary to clean the fuel system, the combustion chamber, replace everything and everything (filters, gaskets, light bulbs, caps, etc.)

Advise more or less normal masters who could deal with this issue. Unfortunately, the search in all known forums did not bring success, calling everyone will also not be useful until you find it yourself.
I don't really want to do repairs in the same place where diagnostics were done due to financial difficulties (a new engine may cost less :))

Given:
Pajero IO 2000 4g94 GDI mileage 72 thousand

Well, according to the master, the mek drives! Dmitry Yurievich

If you climb yourself, then in GDI there are two or three weak points that you need to look at first of all:
1.filter at the entrance to the injection pump
2.throttle cleanliness
3. candles and tips.

The text is not mine. Craftsmen from Mitsu Forum:
FIRST:
When the engine is started, the fuel priming pump starts working, located in the fuel tank, which, in turn, at a pressure of about 0.3 MPa, supplies fuel to the high-pressure fuel pump through a filter element, popularly referred to as the “filter” of the high-pressure fuel pump ..

So,
The "filter" of the injection pump is very small (hence the diminutive nickname), but a VERY IMPORTANT element of the injection pump.

"Clogging" of the filter element of the high pressure fuel pump can cause:

- poor uncertain engine start (with several attempts);
- uncertain acceleration;
- unstable engine operation at XX;
- lack of kick-down mode;
- incorrect and unstable transition from the mode of operation with an ultra-lean fuel mixture to the mode of operation with a stoichiometric composition of fuel assemblies.

And the absence of a filter element for the high-pressure fuel pump can lead to the death of the pump itself!

Therefore, do not overlook this information and be careful.

1. original number of "filter" -MD619962
2. cost -50 rubles. (everyone who sells more than 100 rubles - hucksters!)
3. constructive arrangement:
in the injection pump housing at the fuel supply inlet (see photo)

- We look at the injection pump from the side of the air filter (we first remove the air filter housing and the air path to the throttle valve) and find the fuel hose (supply). We unscrew the two bolts by 10 and carefully disconnect this hose (pull on the metal connecting part of the hose). He sits in the freed inlet of the injection pump.

4.how to pull out:
- We are looking for a 5mm self-tapping cutter with a "blunt" nose (or bite off the sharp part of an ordinary self-tapping screw with pliers) and screw it in at a slight angle

5 mm (the intercostal part of the "filter" metal clip, see the photo) into the vacated opening of the injection pump, then pull towards ourselves and take out the "filter".
In about 90 cases (at least for the first time), the "filter" suffers (breaks), so it is better to get a spare one in advance, especially since the "filter" is penny and is considered disposable.
Preserving the integrity of the filter grid is probably more relevant for owners of cars with GDI injection who live in cities where the network of selling spare parts for MMC is not developed. this "filter" is easy to clean with any carburetor cleaner and can be reused.

Just in case, I give the overall dimensions of the fuel pump "filter":
L = 14mm;
D1 = 6mm;
D2 = 4mm.
since there are rumors that such "filters" can be picked up from nozzle washers ..

SECOND:
Cleaning the throttle valve on the example of Mitsubishi Legnum 2000. with 4G94 engine.

Discussion of this article on the forum

I would like to note right away that this procedure has a tremendous effect in stabilizing engine speed, regardless of the type of injection system type .. but on GDI, this procedure is, let's say, more in demand (1-2 times a year) and has some insignificant, but all the same distinctive feature (GDI with ETV) is the need to "learn" the electronic throttle valve after any manipulations with it.

- remove the "-" terminal from the battery;
- remove the air filter housing and the air path to the throttle valve;
- we throw off two throttle chips;
- unscrew the 4 bolts of the throttle body itself + 3 bolts securing the metal bar connecting the throttle and the engine;
- unscrew the decorative plastic engine cover and pull off the plastic clamp of the wiring harness from the aforementioned strip (it is not necessary to remove the entire cover, it is enough to lift it and, by pressing the latch, throw off the clamp with your hand);
- we pull back the bar and remove two rubber pipes (antifreeze) from the throttle flanges;
- carefully pull out the throttle (handle the throttle very carefully, because the notorious magnets are sitting in the EVT-motor, which strive to come off (for the most part this applies to models up to 1999 with an unfinished ETV-motor, which, as you know , the magnets sometimes peeled off even from the vibration of the engine itself))

- thoroughly clean the inner cavity and "edges" of the damper from carbon deposits
- and check the damper stroke for wedging
- throttle gasket (i.e. can be reused)
- and check its recyclability

how,
I cleaned the SHUMM-oh - it was interesting what it is.

As for the SHUMM - it washes great - it foams and dissolves soot in a funny way, turning it into a sticky thick slurry (see video) .. but expensive!
- the usual ABRO carburetor cleaner + a brush with a hard bristle copes with the infection just as well, albeit a little longer (from previous experience) .. yes, and as a result, after the SHUMM, I still had to douse the throttle with a carburetor cleaner to get rid of the "stickiness "..

ATTENTION:
It is STRONGLY FORBIDDEN to use a mechanical method of cleaning the throttle - no skin and sharp knives!
And there is no need to pick out the "molybdenum layer" at the base of the damper stem - it ensures smooth running!

And do not forget to do the throttle "learning" after cleaning:

- start the engine without learning the damper, let it run a little and turn it off
- disconnect the "-" terminal with the battery and after one minute. return it to its original
- turn the ignition on and off within one second
- wait

30 seconds (maybe a little less - in general, if you listen, then the relay should click, which symbolizes the end of the learning of the damper positions, i.e. you can turn on the ignition or start the engine ...)

Attention, the editors of the site "Your Road" recommend that you consult with a specialist before applying this instruction to action.

One of the most mysterious parts of a car with a diesel engine is a high-pressure fuel pump (TNVD). There are 2 types of pumps - a mechanical pump and an electronically controlled pump, popularly EFI-shny. Each of the types is divided into 2 subspecies: Multi-plunger in-line, single-plunger distribution type (VE). We will not consider the "exotic" type of pump-injector, Common Rail or VR series distribution pumps (Distribution pump with axial plunger, Distribution rotary injection pump)

Since the device, and therefore the principle of its operation, is a mystery for many, there is an opinion that specialized equipment and a specially trained person are needed to repair it. However, such a "gentleman's" set is not always at hand, so let's try to disassemble and assemble this tricky knot "on the knee". The object for preparation will be a high-pressure fuel pump, assembled in ancient times from several different-sized pumps, without using stands, but at the same time successfully spinning a 4D56 diesel engine WITHOUT TURBINE up to 8000 rpm. Externally, it can differ from the high-pressure fuel pump installed on your car only in the absence of a pressure corrector (a kind of mushroom-hat on the top cover) and some attachments. This does not change the essence of the matter.

So, on the table- OH .. Top view

Colored arrows indicate:

Green - fuel supply bolt
Yellow - "return"
Black - pressure valve in the injection pump housing
Red - the axis of the fuel supply regulator ("gas" drive). The "gas" lever itself has been dismantled for convenience.
Brown - mixture "quality" bolt.

Arrows indicate:

Black - automatic heating
Green - drive of the automatic heating device
Red - automatic ignition timing (injection)
Blue - identification plate

Side view (back side):

Blue - speed sensor (tachometer, not always present)
Red - fuel cut-off valve (muffler)
Yellow - pressure valve.
Green is the plunger itself.
Black - the axis of the fuel lever. The same is available on the back of the pump. It is better to remove (but not completely unscrew) them at the initial stage of disassembly.

For work you will need: a set of heads, a set of hexagons, tweezers, screwdrivers, a gas wrench, a caliper, a vice, a clean rag, a container with clean diesel fuel, a grease (Litol, CV joint, etc.) -))

A mesh filter is installed inside, which, as a rule, cannot be washed. Removal has no “contraindications” (yellow arrow).
Has a calibrated hole on the side surface (red arrow). Different pumps have different sizes, so replacing them with another leads to a change in the internal pressure in the pump.

I think no comments are needed. Council - the drive itself should not be disassembled.

Yellow - speed sensor
Green - "jammer".
Black - centrifugal speed controller.
Blue - fuel drive lever.

Here one difficulty is to get to one of the 3 bolts. There are only two options:

Disassemble the drive (carefully, there is a powerful spring! + REMEMBER the setting of the adjusting bolt), and then calmly unscrew the rest.

Unscrew 2 "light" bolts under the key "by 10", loosen the third, "heavy" one, and pushing the assembly aside, slowly unscrew it.

It should look like this:

Yellow - O-ring
Red- adjusting bolt of the automatic advance switch
Green - the cover of the advancing machine.
Remember (write down) the bolt head protrusion (red arrow) above the cover (green arrow). If in the process you decide to unscrew this bolt, during assembly it will be necessary to return the dimensions to their original state.
Blue - the axis of the speed regulator.
Black - mating plane.

Attention! For pumps with RIGHT rotation, the thread on the shaft will be LEFT and vice versa!

If you can find a tool, unscrew the pressure regulator.

Now the fun begins. Parsing includes nodes consisting of several parts. Moreover, the details cannot "live" without each other. That is, they simply cannot be confused with each other.

Red - pressure valve body
Green - spring returnable
Blue - valve needle
Yellow - valve seat
Black - sealing washer.

The plug under the red arrow does not need to be unscrewed; it serves to install the indicator. The fact is that the ignition on diesels is placed not so much on the marks. Rather, initially, the moment of injection is set according to the indicator, and only then the mark that we see is applied. We will omit this procedure for now, the turn will come to it.

So, turn off the cap (blue arrow). This is where the gas wrench comes in handy. The thread of the plug is right-hand.

Blue - plunger body
Red - plunger.

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the amount by which the plunger sinks into the body. We measure the results, write them down, they will come in handy during assembly.

We release the fastening screws (but not completely), and gently shaking, we move the plunger body up. As soon as it is free, we finally unscrew the screws and remove the plunger body. You should get the following picture:

Blue - plunger
Yellow - dosing ring
Red - washer - bearing
Brown - base plate
Black - spring
Green - adjusting washers.

Black - Plunger Shim
Red - cam washer.
Green - fuel delivery lever. I managed to take it off earlier.

Attention!! We do not remove the videos, we do not change them in places.

Remove the stopper (shown with a screwdriver).

We see a pin under the stopper. Shown also with a screwdriver (it is magnetized, the pin can be easily removed by it).

Remove the cam washer drive.

In the interior of the vacated space, push the axis of the advancing automaton:

For convenience, I deleted 1 video, there is nothing criminal here.Pull the roller ring outward for the axis of the advancing automaton. Be careful not to overdo it! At the slightest misalignment, the ring wedges in the body. Attempts to pull it out "insolently" will end in disrepair - the pump casing will go to scrap.

It should look something like this:

For the 2 "horns" sticking out in the bowels of the pump, we take out the pump shaft with the regulator gear:

We return to the "remains" of the pump:

We release the bolts (blue arrows) and take out the booster pump cover (red arrow).

We turn over the pump housing.

We remove the oil seal (shown with a screwdriver). Warning - don't try to save it, it won't work anyway.

As a result, a bare body with a bushing pressed into it should remain. Like this:

Makasyaykin (08.21.2012 - 08:10) wrote:

the subject has our phones, it's probably better to call them, we rarely visit here.

we do almost everything, except for the body and automatic machines.
we repair exclusively MITSUBISHI cars.
Post has been editedMakasyaykin: 04/16/2013 - 12:00

As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
We are here

Only by prior call.

Makasyaykin (09/26/2013 - 14:39) wrote:

This is what it is, "pill" 3rd generation

As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
We are here

Only by prior call.

Just in case. Repair of all Jidai (GDI) and MPI engines, including Pajeromontero, Dingo, Pinin / Io, Lancer, RVR, etc.
All work except for body repair and repair of automatic transmissions (automatic transmissions).

There is also a new service for flashing the engine ECU (brains). Advantages: translation into Euro 2 (turning off 2 lambdas), turning off the EGR valve by software, a slight decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in dynamics.
All the details on the phone.
89223080915.
Geographically street Bakharevskaya first.

P.S. For vehicles only MMS .
Post has been editedNeos: 05/26/2016 - 23:28

As well as repair of gasoline injection pumps MMC.
We are here

Only by prior call.

Just in case. Repair of all Jidai (GDI) and MPI engines, including Pajero3montero3, Dingo, Pinin / Io, Lancer, RVR, etc.
All work except for body repair and repair of automatic transmissions (automatic transmissions).

P.S. For vehicles only MMS .

Video (click to play).

Hello! please orientate the price! Cleaning the forces 4G93T, remove the catalyst, flash the euro 2 sweat, turn off the USR.
You can in a personal! Thanks!

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