DIY bosch vp30 injection pump repair

At first there were jerks, short-term failures. But traction and winding up without problems.Forscan beat error P1564, the error was erased and did not appear for a while, just as glitches appeared and disappeared.

P1564 Injection Pump Control Module Requesting Reduced Fueling

On the move it stalled, the bosch VP 30 pump itself was tested by Denis's prog. Showed such errors:

52 Sporadic malfunction of the steering angle sensor (32)
52 Solenoid valve permanently energized, irreversible damage (32)
59 BIP (Beginn of injection Point) error (32)

on the 2nd error, the valve was constantly popping, possibly closing somewhere.

Tell me where to dig by mistakes? Thank you in advance!

So there is a chance to just rewire the transistor irlr2905 and the problem will be solved for a while? As I understand from the information from the forums, the transistor just does not burn, 90% of the mechanics are to blame.

Yes, there is an assumption that the pump has grabbed air. The cooling was broken and the transistor burned out.

Thanks a lot, everyone! tomorrow I will do an autopsy, I will definitely unsubscribe on the problem. In the meantime, I am studying the information on how to tie the high-pressure fuel pump.

I would say differently, basing my findings on multiple PSG5 repairs.
In 50% of cases, contact with the conductor crystal is broken (apparently a large current at a small cross-section does its job), this is in older blocks in newer blocks two conductors go in parallel. The second overheating of the crystal (on the air pump for starting, the unit stretches the valve activation signal trying to increase the dose by heating the crystal), as a result of which it moves away from its place and becomes, as it were, mobile. Both the first and the second are successfully treated.

YouTube repairs of this device are usually advertising, I am silent about the nuances and without them, NOTHING will work.

Thanks to all! I bought a used pump, because I thought that if you make repairs on your own, it may not be enough for a long time. A stand, and replacement of the valve + brains is half the cost of the car!

You can attach a pump to a Ford Focus 1 1.8 tddi using the program Forscan. I did it myself. If you need to help someone, write or call +375.44.580.44.57 (there is Viber). Or in Minsk personally.

I bought the injection pump for disassembly with the number 0 470 004 007, although I had 0 470 004 002. They are interchangeable. As I understand it, it was restored in the Czech Republic. (Reman in Czech R). The control valve looks like shiny new.

And on the old injection pump there were such glitches: uneven idle after warming up. But if you turn on the dipped beam and the stove to the 1st position and gently, smoothly podgazat, then the revolutions leveled off. But if you press the gas pedal again and release it abruptly, again the engine sausages, with this glitch it has already hit 60 thousand km, it was already there when I bought the car, and I sinned on the USR. With the new injection pump, the problem was eliminated.

So far, only a slightly increased fuel consumption is confusing (but I think the brains have not adjusted yet). And from the bottom, the thrust felt better.

write NUMBERS
type. PREVIOUS feed at 90 gr. Was 1.32 raccoons. became –5.5 raccoons

injection advance angle. on xx — earlier — just such and such. and right now - 2.54 + on average - 5.5. but it was, hell, and nothing more. and kada fagot strangled to the floor. became. a hundred

ON EACH MODE we monitor the duty cycle

the program is added to the ecu of the injection pump zhoko ONCE-AND-FOREVER - reprogramming at the EPS 815 stand is possible, but the current for the parameters of the new injection pump, up to 1-2 times
adaptation. type of adjustment - NOT PROVIDED

write NUMBERS
type. PREVIOUS feed at 90 gr. Was 1.32 raccoons. became –5.5 raccoons

injection advance angle. on xx — earlier — just such and such. and right now - 2.54 + on average - 5.5. but it was, hell, and nothing more. and kada fagot strangled to the floor. became. a hundred

ON EACH MODE we monitor the duty cycle

the program is added to the ecu of the injection pump zhoko ONCE-AND-FOREVER - reprogramming at the EPS 815 stand is possible, but the current for the parameters of the new injection pump, up to 1-2 times
adaptation.type of adjustment - NOT PROVIDED

The consumption of the on-board computer is about a liter more, both on the highway and in the city. It looks like the ECU of the injection pump on this pump is filled with a less economical setting. And the pump in general with a different number (interchangeable). Although the smokiness felt diminished, the bottom thrust increased. I did not put a pump on a used stand, I will not say specific numbers.

While hitting about 200 km. Where does the on-board computer get information about fuel consumption? directly from the injection pump computer? I don't have a mass flow sensor, there is only an intake temperature sensor.

here I am for you about Ivan - and you are about Peter, but what a hell of a thing about the on-board computer

You, at least -shot, read the right diagnostics. for example, VCM-IDS, or a program from deniss, otherwise-sho-writes-tidy. so then - mathematics. and to real PHYSICAL values, - has a VERY SECONDARY relation

here I am for you about Ivan - and you are about Peter, but what a hell of a thing about the on-board computer

You, at least -shot, read the right diagnostics. for example, VCM-IDS, or a program from deniss, otherwise-sho-writes-tidy. so then - mathematics. and to real PHYSICAL values, - has a VERY SECONDARY relation

With a program from Denis (free) I tested the pump, 2 errors in the angle of rotation sensor (but he says that this is the norm). Where can I get you specific figures for the high pressure fuel pump? I don’t have a stand, I don’t have a paid program and Denis’s adapter either.

I made my car for myself. I believe that it is economically feasible to simply change the fuel pump for another bu.

After the replacement, I was surprised that the flow rate reading on the BC increased noticeably. It turns out that it is the brain of the injection pump that gives information about the fuel consumption specifically in the FF 1.8 Tddi.

without eps 815, you have NO options. AND HANDLES ALSO. and even correct herprom (in the sense of adding effefoks and zeros, even there de nuna, - mona — the current client will come to you every hour — then he doesn't go, but now he is eating, or ... now, everything is fine-BUT . give the money, - the navels pressed)

delta-fi-prog from DENISS — in case of inflated understated feeds, it will help, 5050—— test prog

DO NOT NEED. plz. thoughts. through the trees.

plz more specifically—> this is pamagait. in such and such cases, and this -> in such and such cases, but this gadget -> vashche a kid from all troubles for VP 3044

set 5.5-7.5. at 4.3-4.0-2.8 and so on. and etc. will slowly decelerate when shifting gears.

vashshche-that, cool. repairing worn-out mechanics - programming, - takes 15 minutes for a test drive. after "fixing"

dont be upset. you are not the first to step on the enty grabarks. really> 50% - repairerschikoff-programmeroff

I would say differently, basing my findings on multiple PSG5 repairs.
In 50% of cases, contact with the conductor crystal is broken (apparently a large current at a small cross-section does its job), this is in older blocks in newer blocks two conductors go in parallel. The second overheating of the crystal (on the air pump for starting, the unit stretches the valve activation signal trying to increase the dose by heating the crystal), as a result of which it moves away from its place and becomes, as it were, mobile. Both the first and the second are successfully treated.

YouTube repairs of this device are usually advertising, I am silent about the nuances and without them, NOTHING will work.

Totally agree with you! Another option for the "departure" of the transistor: interturn closure, and wedging of the needle (with the help of small chips that are present inside the pump). All this increases the currents of the transistor circuit, and the vulnerable spot burns out. In pumps until 2001, the source of the transistor burns out, in pumps after 2001 - the crystal itself (they thought of inserting two wires at the source!)

At the moment, I have another problem: After replacing all filters (except for the oil one, I changed it with oil before), - do not start up hot. Namely, if you turned off the engine and immediately start it, start and work. If the car has stood for 10-15 minutes, the engine clings and immediately stalls, the second attempt - the starter turns and does not even cling. After waiting an hour and a half, - to start as if nothing had happened. This does not happen every time, but quite often.Need help where to dig? I don’t know if this has something to do with filters or is it a coincidence of circumstances? And one more thing, about a month ago I discovered a diesel engine “digging out” from under my injection pump bosch VP30. (More precisely, from under its cast-iron head of the plunger pair) A repair kit of rubber bands was bought and replaced. Now the pump does not drip, but the problem with the hot start has not disappeared!
In addition, when disassembling the pump, small swarf was found, which apparently was the cause of the wedging of the valve needle.
Having shoveled the Internet, I did not find the answer to my problem, whether it is a plunger pair (Ford has been running 240 tons since 2000), or the EGR valve, which I have already cleaned, or is it some kind of sensor? Need help, thanks in advance everyone for participating!

16700 VX100
16700 VX101
the numbers of our fuel pumps, they are interchangeable, although 101 has been going on since 06 and I would put it only with nozzles from the Zexel restyling 9430613801
Bosch F01G09X03S, they have more nozzles

REPAIR OF INPUTS, PURCHASE OF REPAIRED -

Injection pump VP44 - zd30
Began the second part by tradition, who wants to see the first

here is the topic of repair

the brains of the injection pump are not interchangeable, even if they are from a similar injection pump, the car will start, drive, but it will not develop full power
brains must be registered at the stand, brains can be registered three times, there are three paths for filling in information, it is non-retrievable and indelible
so after three times you need to buy new brains for the injection pump

On the advance valve (according to scheme 424), there is not a rare case of insulation crumbling followed by a short circuit (the Internet is full of information). At the same time, the car works but does not pull and error 77 appears. At least this is the case for me. To remove this valve, it is necessary to unscrew 2 bolts and remove the bracket (for cx 400) and, accordingly, 2 bolts on the valve itself. Without removing it is probably possible, but you will have to tinker. The 805 valve has short wires and is very difficult to slide into place.

By the way, regarding WD40, I personally have been using it in electrical equipment for a long time to process contacts and even high-voltage equipment (at work at 6 kV). Processed ignition distributor covers (distributor). As far as I know, this slurry contains oils with high hardenability that fill microcracks and prevent electrical breakdown. But now on the market (at least we have) there are many different options. In the photo under number 1, pure china and I would not risk it e-mail. to process. No. 2 is normal, and No. 3 went this way initially. Also in the photo is the set necessary for removing the injection pump valves

the bypass (pressure reducing) valve is located in the front of the injection pump on the right side in the direction of travel (fungus with cut flats, and in the middle there is an adjusting plug-piston.
The pressure regulating valve in the pump is located in the plug, which closes this hole. There is a piston, and a spring on top. In order to increase the pressure, you can not turn out the plug, there is something like a groove with a diameter of about 5 mm in it outside in the center, we take a barb and put it in the groove and put the rod in the bottom the rod compresses the spring pressure in the high pressure pump increases, sometimes it is necessary to Tap 1mm several times.

internal pressure of our injection pump VP44

740 rev - 7 atm (XX)
1000 rpm - 9 atm
1200 rpm - 11 atm
1500 rpm - 15 atm
2000 rpm - 18 atm
2500 rpm - 20 atm
3000 rpm - 21 atm
4000 rpm - 23 atm

The mesh is removed like this, you need a key, make a cut of 10mm in round timber by 12-14 (or with a key of 10 cut short), raise the intercooler and unscrew the valve and pull out the valve with a screw as in the photo.

to check the in-body pressure, it is necessary to unscrew the plug, insert a pressure gauge, it can be a hose with a threaded end, etc.

The injection pump number 059 130 106D was installed on cars:

Volkswagen Passat B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat B5.5 (3B3) 2001 - 2005
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 (3B6) 2001 - 2005

Volkswagen Passat B5 / Volkswagen Passat B5 (3B2) 1997 - 2001
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 (3B5) 1997 - 2001

Audi A4 B5 / Audi A4 B5 (8D2) 1995 - 2001
Audi A4 Avant B5 / Audi A4 Avant B5 (8D5) 1996 - 2002

Audi A6 C5 / Audi A6 (4B2) 1997 - 2005
Audi A6 Avant / Audi A6 Avant (4B5) 1998 - 2005

information is suitable for repairs and other cars.

Hello everyone! I decided to write a report on self-repair of the Bosch VP44 injection pump, number 059 130 106D, auto Audi A8 D2 2.5tdi V6, but this pump was not installed anywhere, Audi A4, A6, VW, BMW, Opel, often breaks down on trucks - so I think the information will not hurt.
I had no experience with high-pressure fuel pumps - so I bombarded specialists with questions on various forums - thanks to everyone who helped with advice!
A big role was played by the report of the owner of the Opel Vectra - Mitrofana (Thank you). The progress of the disassembly process is displayed there.
I want to tell you about my experience and my own “rakes” so that no one would jump on them again.

So, after pumping with a pear or something from the nozzle pipes, nothing presses when scrolling with the starter - it means you have problems with mechanics: the most likely option is damage to the membrane (or cutting rings), the second option is a defect in the booster pump ... You will see all this later in the photo.
Anyone who has everything working properly - here you can view the high-pressure fuel pump from all angles, incl. his most intimate places

To begin with, while the pump is on the machine, we set the timing and injection pump to the “base” position so that the hole for the stopper coincides with the hole on the pulley (we shine a flashlight), you can rotate the timing either by the crankshaft or by the camshaft (but with a force of no more than 75 Nm (! ), smoothly, with pauses, or with a gearbox, hanging out the muzzle, rotating the wheel. Then loosen the nut by 27mm of the gear wheel, put a clear mark on the shaft and the gear wheel. We may need it when reassembling. The tooth itself. The wheel sits firmly on the "cone "- even without a nut, it won't move a single gram, you don't need to press it yet, so far we only need a mark with an awl:

The decision on whether to compress it or not will be made later (so as not to do unnecessary work).
Then we unscrew the pump from the auto - we close the fitting with something and thoroughly rinse it with a “karcher”, then blow it in places with a carb cleaner and blow it with compressed air so that there is less dirt during disassembly:

We unscrew the "brains" and 2 e-mail. valve (details at Mitrofan), for this we need Torx 10,25,30 (later another T20 is possible). Before unscrewing, knock on the Torx with a small hammer, if it does not work, it is better to continue knocking, because when you break the edges, you will have to drill and drive in the “M” bit.

When pulling out the central valve (with a screwdriver as a lever), you need to make sure that it comes out without skewing, if it skews, push it back and again try supporting it from below.

Then we bring the gear wheel (which is still firmly sitting on the cone) to the mark into which the stopper is inserted (or, as for a collective farm, a 6mm drill), unscrew the T50 bolt, remove the washer under it and tighten it all the way, thereby blocking the movement of the shaft, the stopper take out:

In this case, the back will be in this position:

Further, to remove the distributor head according to Mitrofan, we burst and swing with screwdrivers, but I, so as not to spoil the al. the body simply rested with a screwdriver and knocked down with a hammer:

We remove the distribution head and see the very defect due to which the pressure disappeared - damage to the outer plastic part of the membrane:

If you saw such a picture (or just a crack), then there is no need to disassemble further - we change the membrane and rubber rings and put them back together. Membrane repair kit Bosch 1 467 045 032. But there are important nuances, read here

Since I did not immediately notice due to inexperience, I disassembled further:

Further, to remove the bearing according to Mitrofan, we pull it with a thick wire, I just spread the newspaper on the floor and hit it with the body - by inertia the bearing and 2 washers came out:

Then you need to unscrew the plug, wrap the top with paper or a rag and pull out with pliers:

With drifts or something handy, we turn the cam washer and the piston to the position at which the cool. the washer will move up (in the photo you need to turn it a little clockwise and it will rise):

After removing the cooler. washers - we take out the piston - this is how it looks from all sides (if it comes out badly, you can swing it with drifts for 2 holes, which are in the photo at the top left, but do not stick it deep into the hole):

Now we press the gear wheel off the shaft (while the shaft is "pressed in" Torx50, which was mentioned above, otherwise, when removed, the shaft will shoot like a bullet - both the shaft and the housing can be damaged). You will need a GOOD puller, the effort is HUGE, we put good pieces of rags under the puller's paws, so as not to leave “jammed”.

After pressing, we loosen T50 and take out the shaft.

... and the puck (what's underneath). The booster pump remains in the housing.
Now, using T20, unscrew the bolts (you need a long and thin T20, preferably):

It is desirable to “shake it out” by hitting the body on the newspaper - then it will fall out “assembled”. If you try to push from behind with your fingers, it will most likely fall out "in parts", this is bad:

As they say, it is undesirable to confuse the blades in places, otherwise they can wedge at revolutions.
Another photo of him:

It is serviceable, the only thing there is a small defect - chipping, but this is not criminal:

The booster pump was taken from the spare donor pump, it fell out “assembled”, we rinse very well. carba:

Then the empty body was washed with "Karcher" (without bringing it close to the channels), then och. Carba dried through channels and compressed air. Purity:

Install the booster pump (donor) in place:

We put the washer and insert the shaft (in the photo the washer hangs on the shaft):

The gear wheel is ready for installation:

Align it according to our scratch mark with the shaft, then rotate it until the hole for the stopper is aligned and block T50:

Slightly (!) Fill the tooth. the wheel onto the shaft, lightly tighten the nut by 27mm. We put catalogs and a tooth damper on the table. wheels to position the injection pump conveniently for further assembly.
In this case, the picture is as follows, the shaft is locked in the “basic” position:

The piston was taken from the donor pump, the scratches were slightly sanded with the P800, 1500, 2000 legs. It is advisable to grind the sleeve itself in the injection pump housing with P2000 (but this is before washing).

As you can see on the left - the piston ring interferes with the assembly - we just wrap the piston with plastic film, squeeze it with our fingers and put it on:

Place the piston so that the cam washer is “filled” into it (yellow arrow). The second point of connection is cool. washers - black arrow:

And here is the cam washer itself, these 2 pins must be “inserted” into the holes:

Repair of high-pressure fuel pump VP series

Injection pump VP series It has been installed on diesel engines since the 97s of the 20th century, until the more economical COMMON RAIL system came to replace it. The VP injection pump was installed on more powerful engines than the VE injection pump. The injection pump is fully electronic and has its own control unit.

The mechanical part of the VP injection pump is very reliable and less likely to break down than the electronic part. The control unit, according to the manufacturer's statement, has a warranty period of 7 years, more often problems with the injection pump occur after this period of time.

The most common cars with Injection pump VP is: AUDI, VW, FORD, MAN, NISSAN release from 97 to 2007.

For the repair of this injection pump, all the necessary spare parts are in our own warehouse and the supplier's warehouse, and the technical equipment of the repair shop of our company allows us to diagnose, regulate and repair the VP injection pump in the shortest possible time. After repair, the control unit has a new program designed for the entire factory warranty period.

The cost of repairing a high-pressure fuel pump excluding material and spare parts:

High pressure fuel pump diagnostics VP - RUB 4500

Disassembly / assembly, running-in and tuning work, including diagnostics - 10,000 rubles. excluding the cost of spare parts.

Approximate estimate for the repair of VP injection pump:

Injection pump 0470004004 with FORD TRANSIT was partially overhauled with replacement of the control unit with a new one, replacement of the advance piston and seals.

- Repair kit for electronic part of TNVD-23000 rubles.

There is no more complex and critical unit in a diesel engine than the fuel injection system, more precisely, its main part - the high-pressure fuel pump. Many mating parts, high-loaded units, the presence of a precision dosing system, make the repair of the injection pump a difficult task even in service conditions.It is all the more difficult to repair the high pressure fuel pump of a diesel engine with your own hands.

In automotive technology, almost everything is repaired, except, perhaps, individual oil seals and cuffs, the repair of which is impossible without special materials. The complexity of setting, diagnosing and repairing the injection pump requires the employee to have skills in working with precision mechanics.

It is simply impossible to adjust according to the factory parameters, without a special diagnostic stand for the repair of the injection pump. In the course of a diagnostic study of the injection pump, it is necessary to check:

• cyclic supply of the high-pressure pump, in the entire range of revolutions of the injection pump shaft, at start-up, and after cutting off the fuel supply;
• stability of the developed pressure;
• uniformity of the injection pump delivery to the fuel injector.

Even having access to a diagnostic stand, and having studied the issue of repairing a high-pressure fuel pump using numerous videos, it is very difficult to qualitatively check and evaluate its work.

In heavy diesel engines, plunger, in-line injection pumps are used. In maintenance and repair, such devices are more difficult, since they require special equipment for its disassembly, therefore we will not consider such high pressure fuel pumps and their repair.

In a passenger diesel engine, a distribution type injection pump is almost always used. Unlike in-line pumps, in a distribution pump, the force is transmitted to the plunger using a profiled cam washer. The design of the injection pump turned out to be more compact, but it is hardly simpler to expect to carry out its repair on the knee.

The most famous and affordable is the Bosh VP44 injection pump. Often, the need to repair the pump internals arises when:

• poor traction and incomplete combustion of fuel even under ideal conditions - in the absence of load and a thoroughly warmed up engine;
• a sudden failure and stoppage of a diesel engine under load, which is called “death on takeoff”. Usually the scanner in such cases diagnoses the code P1630 and P1651.
• the appearance of a diesel fuel leak in the area of ​​the gland seal of the central shaft of the injection pump.

Therefore, we will restrict ourselves to the issue of repairing the injection pump with our own hands by replacing the seals and eliminating the scoring of the working surfaces of the parts.

Before disassembling the pump drive shaft seal, try to move it radially. If play is felt with your hands, it is possible that the reason for the leakage of fuel is the wear of the working surface of the shaft or requires repair of the bearing.

A large number of split planes and mating surfaces of parts required the use of a large number of seals and glands. As a rule, they are made of quality material and last long enough until they are damaged during repair or maintenance. In this case, standard repair kits are used for DIY repair of Bosch injection pumps.

It is quite easy to replace the seal on the shaft position sensor and on the automatic injection timing during repairs. For a better fit, you can drip a few drops of spindle or engine oil onto new rings and rubber bands.

For preventive repair of a Bosch injection pump with your own hands, you will need to disassemble the pump in approximately the following order:

• remove the metering valve from the end of the injection pump. To do this, unscrew the four screws of the pressure plate, carefully release the cable of the injection advance valve. By removing the three screws securing the metering valve, you can carefully remove it from the seat;

• by unscrewing the fastener on the top cover, you can remove the control board and gain access to the electronics;
• we set the position of the shaft, as shown in the photo, remove the camera and get access to the insides of the injection pump;

• after dismantling the bearing using a special puller, we get the opportunity to study the potential culprit for the poor performance of the injection pump - the piston of the injection advance unit. There is often surface wear and edge scuffing on the part. You can try to make repairs by polishing the surface, replacing the whole part is much more expensive.

After the repair, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order with the washing of the parts with diesel fuel.

Often, in addition to scoring, on the surface of the pistons, there is another reason why the injection pump does not develop the required pressure. This could be due to debris, films, or wax build-up on the filter screen inside the pump. There is a mesh on the side of the inlet pipe. Rinsing the channels is a troublesome and ineffective business, it is easier to remove the mesh and blow it with compressed air.

Torn pieces of debris can jam the plunger piston or even break or break the pump drive shaft. Therefore, cleaning should be done very carefully to avoid contamination of the internal cavities of the pump.

Among the many reasons for the failure of the electronic "liver" of the injection pump, the most common is the breakage or burnout of the contacts of the control board and the failure of the power transistors. If the knowledge and skills of working with electronic devices allow to carry out a "continuity" of the transistor performance and repair, it is worth trying to identify the cause and replace the culprit with a serviceable element.

To check the condition of the "culprit", you need to carefully open the black cover, which is tightly seated on the rubber seal with screws. It should be removed carefully so as not to damage the seal itself.

The reason for the failure of not only the transistor, but also the entire board could be air trapped in the cavity due to poor operation of the drainage system or the check valve. Often, they try to eliminate the airing by spinning up with a starter, hoping to pump diesel fuel into the high-pressure fuel pump in this way. At this moment, the transistor is open and loaded as much as possible, which leads to intense heating. In an air environment with poor heat dissipation, it will inevitably burn out. In some German cars there is a protection that prevents an attempt to start the engine in the absence of fuel in the highway. For this, a fuel sensor in the tank is used.

Failure of the transistor can be established by "dialing" a tester or by its appearance. The best option for repairing such a malfunction would be to replace the entire control board. Perhaps it is more expensive than soldering, but it will give guaranteed quality and stable operation of the injection pump after repair. As a last resort, give the board and the transistor for soldering to electronics specialists.

When installing and reassembling after repairs, check the tightness of all fasteners.

If during the audit you did not make rash and unreasonable replacements of parts, the assembled pump should work with approximately the same parameters as before. Bosch EPS-815 stand is used as a standard for testing and adjusting injection pump after overhaul.

The video shows how to raise the plunger pressure in a Bosch VE injection pump:

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