Do-it-yourself Bosch injection pump repair t4

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There is no more complex and critical unit in a diesel engine than the fuel injection system, more precisely, its main part - the high pressure fuel pump. Many mating parts, high-loaded units, the presence of a precision dosing system, make the repair of the injection pump a difficult task even in service conditions. It is all the more difficult to repair the high pressure fuel pump of a diesel engine with your own hands.

In automotive technology, almost everything is repaired, except, perhaps, individual oil seals and cuffs, the repair of which is impossible without special materials. The complexity of setting, diagnosing and repairing the injection pump requires the employee to have skills in working with precision mechanics.

It is simply impossible to adjust according to the factory parameters, without a special diagnostic stand for the repair of the injection pump. During the diagnostic study of the injection pump, it is necessary to check:

• cyclic supply of the high-pressure pump, in the entire range of revolutions of the injection pump shaft, at start-up, and after cutting off the fuel supply;
• stability of the developed pressure;
• uniformity of the injection pump delivery to the fuel injector.

Even having access to a diagnostic stand, and having studied the issue of repairing a high-pressure fuel pump using numerous videos, it is very difficult to qualitatively check and evaluate its work.

In heavy diesel engines, plunger, in-line injection pumps are used. In maintenance and repair, such devices are more difficult, since they require special equipment for its disassembly, therefore we will not consider such high pressure fuel pumps and their repair.

In a passenger diesel engine, a distribution type injection pump is almost always used. Unlike in-line pumps, in a distribution pump, the force is transmitted to the plunger using a profiled cam washer. The design of the injection pump turned out to be more compact, but it is hardly simpler to expect to carry out its repair on the knee.

The most famous and affordable is the Bosh VP44 injection pump. Often, the need to repair the pump internals arises when:

• poor traction and incomplete combustion of fuel even under ideal conditions - in the absence of load and a thoroughly warmed up engine;
• a sudden failure and stoppage of a diesel engine under load, which is called “death on takeoff”. Usually the scanner in such cases diagnoses the code P1630 and P1651.
• the appearance of a diesel fuel leak in the area of ​​the gland seal of the central shaft of the injection pump.

Therefore, we will restrict ourselves to the issue of repairing the injection pump with our own hands by replacing the seals and eliminating the scoring of the working surfaces of the parts.

Before disassembling the pump drive shaft seal, try to move it radially. If play is felt with your hands, it is possible that the reason for the leakage of fuel is the wear of the working surface of the shaft or requires repair of the bearing.

A large number of split planes and mating surfaces of parts required the use of a large number of seals and glands. As a rule, they are made of quality material and last long enough until they are damaged during repair or maintenance. In this case, standard repair kits are used for DIY repair of Bosch injection pumps.

It is quite easy to replace the seal on the shaft position sensor and on the automatic injection timing during repairs. For a better fit, you can drip a few drops of spindle or engine oil onto new rings and rubber bands.

For preventive repair of a Bosch injection pump with your own hands, you will need to disassemble the pump in approximately the following order:

• remove the metering valve from the end of the injection pump.To do this, unscrew the four screws of the pressure plate, carefully release the cable of the injection advance valve. By removing the three screws securing the metering valve, you can carefully remove it from the seat;

• by unscrewing the fastener on the top cover, you can remove the control board and gain access to the electronics;
• we set the position of the shaft, as shown in the photo, remove the camera and get access to the insides of the injection pump;

• after dismantling the bearing using a special puller, we get the opportunity to study the potential culprit for the poor performance of the injection pump - the piston of the injection advance unit. There is often surface wear and edge scuffing on the part. You can try to make repairs by polishing the surface, replacing the whole part is much more expensive.

After the repair, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order with the washing of the parts with diesel fuel.

Often, in addition to scoring, on the surface of the pistons there is another reason why the injection pump does not develop the required pressure. This can be due to debris, films or wax build-up on the filter screen inside the pump. There is a mesh on the side of the inlet pipe. Rinsing the channels is a troublesome and ineffective business, it is easier to remove the mesh and blow it with compressed air.

Torn pieces of debris can jam the plunger piston or even break or break the pump drive shaft. Therefore, cleaning should be done very carefully to avoid contamination of the internal cavities of the pump.

Among the many reasons for the failure of the electronic "liver" of the injection pump, the most common is the breakage or burnout of the contacts of the control board and the failure of power transistors. If the knowledge and skills of working with electronic devices allow to carry out a "continuity" of the transistor performance and repair, it is worth trying to identify the cause and replace the culprit with a serviceable element.

To check the condition of the "culprit", you need to carefully open the black cover, which is tightly seated on the rubber seal with screws. It should be removed carefully so as not to damage the seal itself.

The reason for the failure of not only the transistor, but also the entire board could be air trapped in the cavity due to poor performance of the drainage system or the check valve. Often, they try to eliminate the airing by spinning up with a starter, hoping to pump diesel fuel into the high-pressure fuel pump in this way. At this moment, the transistor is open and loaded as much as possible, which leads to intense heating. In an air environment with poor heat dissipation, it will inevitably burn out. In some German cars there is a protection that prevents an attempt to start the engine in the absence of fuel in the highway. For this, a fuel sensor in the tank is used.

Failure of the transistor can be established by "dialing" a tester or by its appearance. The best option for repairing such a malfunction would be to replace the entire control board. Perhaps it is more expensive than soldering, but it will give guaranteed quality and stable operation of the injection pump after repair. As a last resort, give the board and the transistor for soldering to electronics specialists.

When installing and reassembling after repairs, check the tightness of all fasteners.

If during the audit you did not make rash and unreasonable replacements of parts, the assembled pump should work with approximately the same parameters as before. Bosch EPS-815 stand is used as a standard for testing and adjusting injection pump after overhaul.

The video shows how to raise the plunger pressure in a Bosch VE injection pump:

Attention, the editors of the site "Your Road" recommend that you consult with a specialist before applying this instruction to action.

One of the most mysterious parts of a car with a diesel engine is a high-pressure fuel pump (TNVD). There are 2 types of pumps - a mechanical pump and an electronically controlled pump, popularly EFI-shny. Each of the types is divided into 2 subspecies: Multi-plunger in-line, single-plunger distribution type (VE). We will not consider the "exotic" type of pump-injector, Common Rail or VR series distribution pumps (Distribution pump with axial plunger, Distribution rotary injection pump)

Since the device, and therefore the principle of its operation, is a mystery for many, there is an opinion that specialized equipment and a specially trained person are needed to repair it. However, such a "gentleman's" set is not always at hand, so let's try to disassemble and assemble this tricky knot "on the knee". The object for preparation will be a high-pressure fuel pump, assembled in ancient times from several different-sized pumps, without using stands, but at the same time successfully spinning a 4D56 diesel engine WITHOUT TURBINE up to 8000 rpm. Externally, it can differ from the high-pressure fuel pump installed on your car only in the absence of a pressure corrector (a kind of mushroom-hat on the top cover) and some attachments. This does not change the essence of the matter.

So, on the table- OH .. Top view

Colored arrows indicate:

• Green - fuel supply bolt
• Yellow - "return"
• Black - pressure valve in the injection pump housing
• Red - the axis of the fuel supply regulator ("gas" drive). The "gas" lever itself has been dismantled for convenience.
• Brown - mixture "quality" bolt.

Arrows indicate:

• Black - automatic heating
• Green - drive of the automatic heating device
• Red - automatic ignition timing (injection)
• Blue - identification plate

Side view (back side):

• Blue - speed sensor (tachometer, not always present)
• Red - fuel cut-off valve (muffler)
• Yellow - pressure valve.
• Green is the plunger itself.
• Black - the axis of the fuel lever. The same is available on the back of the pump. It is better to remove (but not completely unscrew) them at the initial stage of disassembly.

For work you will need: a set of heads, a set of hexagons, tweezers, screwdrivers, a gas wrench, a caliper, a vice, a clean rag, a container with clean diesel fuel, a grease (Litol, CV joint, etc.) -))

1. A mesh filter is installed inside, which, as a rule, cannot be washed. Removal has no “contraindications” (yellow arrow).
2. Has a calibrated hole on the side surface (red arrow). Different pumps have different sizes, so replacing them with another leads to a change in the internal pressure in the pump.

I think no comments are needed. Council - the drive itself should not be disassembled.

• Yellow - speed sensor
• Green - "jammer".
• Black - centrifugal speed controller.
• Blue - fuel drive lever.

Here one difficulty is to get to one of the 3 bolts. There are only two options:

Disassemble the drive (carefully, there is a powerful spring! + REMEMBER the setting of the adjusting bolt), and then calmly unscrew the rest.

Unscrew 2 "light" bolts under the key "by 10", loosen the third, "heavy" one, and pushing the assembly aside, slowly unscrew it.

It should look like this:

• Yellow - O-ring
• Red- adjusting bolt of the automatic advance switch
• Green - the cover of the advancing machine.
• Remember (write down) the bolt head protrusion (red arrow) above the cover (green arrow). If in the process you decide to unscrew this bolt, during assembly it will be necessary to return the dimensions to their original state.
• Blue - the axis of the speed regulator.
• Black - mating plane.

Attention! For pumps with RIGHT rotation, the thread on the shaft will be LEFT and vice versa!

If you can find a tool, unscrew the pressure regulator.

Now the fun begins. Parsing includes nodes consisting of several parts. Moreover, the details cannot "live" without each other. That is, they simply cannot be confused with each other.

• Red - pressure valve body
• Green - spring returnable
• Blue - valve needle
• Yellow - valve seat
• Black - sealing washer.

The plug under the red arrow does not need to be unscrewed; it serves to install the indicator. The fact is that the ignition on diesels is placed not so much on the marks. Rather, initially, the moment of injection is set according to the indicator, and only then the mark that we see is applied. We will omit this procedure for now, the turn will come to it.

So, turn off the cap (blue arrow). This is where the gas wrench comes in handy. The thread of the plug is right-hand.

• Blue - plunger body
• Red - plunger.

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the amount by which the plunger sinks into the body. We measure the results, write them down, they will come in handy during assembly.

We release the fastening screws (but not completely), and gently shaking, we move the plunger body up. As soon as it is free, we finally unscrew the screws and remove the plunger body. You should get the following picture:

• Blue - plunger
• Yellow - dosing ring
• Red - washer - bearing
• Brown - base plate
• Black - spring
• Green - adjusting washers.

• Black - Plunger Shim
• Red - cam washer.
• Green - fuel delivery lever. I managed to take it off earlier.

Attention!! We do not remove the videos, we do not change them in places.

Remove the stopper (shown with a screwdriver).

We see a pin under the stopper. Shown also with a screwdriver (it is magnetized, the pin can be easily removed by it).

Remove the cam washer drive.

In the interior of the vacated space, push the axis of the advancing automaton:

For convenience, I deleted 1 video, there is nothing criminal here. Pull the roller ring outward for the axis of the advancing automaton. Caution, do not use unnecessary effort! At the slightest misalignment, the ring wedges in the body. Attempts to pull it out "insolently" will end in disrepair - the pump casing will be scrapped.

It should look something like this:

For the 2 "horns" sticking out in the depths of the pump, we take out the pump shaft with the gear of the regulator:

We return to the "remains" of the pump:

We release the bolts (blue arrows) and take out the booster pump cover (red arrow).

We turn over the pump housing.

We remove the oil seal (shown with a screwdriver). Warning - don't try to save it, it won't work anyway.

As a result, a bare body with a bushing pressed into it should remain. Like this:

The time now is: 10/19/18 12:56 PM

kds "12.21.08, 18:36 Re: ААВ, What kind of screw is on the injection pump

T-4 AAV. 1994, clean passenger.

Dmitry_K "12.21.08, 21:34 Re: ААВ, What kind of screw is on the injection pump

PERESVET "06/28/09, 04:56 Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

den47rus "28.06.09, 09:00 Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

So the throttle cable runs freely, does not sour?

Caesar "06/28/09, 10:14 Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

Thick "06/28/09, 10:18 AM Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

PERESVET "06/28/09, 11:42 Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

Caesar "06/28/09, 12:08 Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

Albert "06/28/09, 14:13 Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

wait chase.
I had all the same symptoms.
first you need to check how the rotary cam works on the pump itself.
I had a backlash, at more than 2000 rpm, I had a snack and squeezed out excess diesel fuel.
disassembled opened the top cover, it did not work.
I disassembled the motor and took out the injection pump itself, gave it to the assembly. 10 days collected (there was no turner)
and that in the end: ”you have a solid oil there, I had to wash it for a very long time. "
total. ruble, have not yet assembled the typewriter, only next Saturday we will start,
just to begin with, you just need to buy, as you have already written on the website, a flushing agent (you have to rummage around there is such a topic) in Russian WINST, and then continue to break your head.

just don't post-solder like me. no need to disassemble it yourself, only specialists.
The high pressure fuel pump does not like to treat him like that

PERESVET "06/28/09, 14:34 Re: TNVD 2.4 AAV

Caesar »28.06.09, 19:50 Re: Injection pump 2.4 AAV

klerk "05.24.10, 19:51 T4 Question about the injection pump

Nikolay M "05.24.10, 21:05 Re: Question on the injection pump

klerk "05.24.10, 21:31 Re: Question about the injection pump

Caesar "05.24.10, 21:59 Re: Question about the injection pump

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VOLKSWAGEN MINIBUS OWNERS CLUB

Message Waldas » 15.12.2010, 10:58:30 #196

Message dizell » 15.12.2010, 21:03:36 #197

Message Caesar » 15.12.2010, 21:05:50 #198

Message Zulf » 08.01.2011, 00:31:55 #199

T4 1.9D van short 1994 / in (2006-2008)
T4 2.4D passenger, long 1992 / v (2010-2013)
T4 2.4D van short 1996 / w (2013-2016)

T5 2.0D chip, van, short 2010 (2016-.))

Message Albert » 09.01.2011, 23:14:10 #201

you just need to read and not be afraid of anything.

Message Kamal » 12.01.2011, 14:53:53 #202

Message Albert » 12.01.2011, 15:29:08 #203

Message Kamal » 12.01.2011, 15:34:40 #204

Message Caesar » 02.02.2011, 20:50:50 #205

In general, I found what I was looking for, here for the curious I spread
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/402/load/0-0-0-99-20

It's a shame that completely strangers immediately responded within a day, but their own did not. It turns out that there are no hardware specialists in the club and on the forum, and if there are, they are silent. Only sometimes they whisper from around the corner: “The club is POWER”.
Now I know where and from whom to get a test plan for any injection pump, contact us, the service is still free.

Message dizell » 02.02.2011, 21:17:57 #206

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

VW T4. Engine, power supply system, exhaust system ⇒ T4 conveyor .1.9L injection pump Diesel fuel dripping from under the cap

Message Maxim Malkov »04 Jan 2011, 23:27

Message SpiderBUS71 »05 Jan 2011, 03:03

Message SpiderBUS71 »06 Jan 2011, 15:16

Message Maxim Malkov »07 Jan 2011, 01:23

Message SpiderBUS71 »07 Jan 2011, 01:31

Message Maxim Malkov »07 Jan 2011, 20:21

Message Maxim Malkov »09 Jan 2011, 12:26

Message Maxim Malkov »10 Jan 2011, 00:05

Message SpiderBUS71 »11 Jan 2011, 22:37

Message sanyalo »11 Jan 2011, 22:41

Message SpiderBUS71 »15 Jan 2011, 02:23

Message Maxim Malkov »28 Jan 2011, 00:51

Checking the installation of the injection phases of the high-pressure fuel pump on diesel engines is carried out by a static method. A plunger-type dial gauge is required to estimate the amount of lift of the pump. The phase setting is determined by the distance between the TDC mark on the flywheel to a fixed point on the engine, the measurement of which should be entrusted to qualified service personnel.

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner inlet hose (see Section Removal and installation of an assembly of an air cleaner and components of an intake tract).
3. Due to very limited access to the pump, it is wise to remove the radiator.
4. Acting in accordance with the instructions given in Chapter Engine repairdo the following:
a) Remove the camshaft cover, the outer timing belt cover;
b) Bring the engine to the TDC position;
c) Slip the toothed belt off the camshaft and injection pump toothed pulleys.
5. Now it is necessary to remove the gear wheel from the injection pump shaft. In the process of releasing the fastener, the gear wheel should be locked against turning using a suitable device that can easily be made from available tools (see Section Removal and installation of the timing belt and its covers).

6. Loosen the three mounting bolts and remove the gear from the pump flange.

Never loosen the central nut of the cogwheel, as this can lead to a violation of the basic settings of the injection phases.

7. Having previously marked, disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the pump, and also disconnect the control hose from the return union.
8. Using two wrenches (you may have to use a split wrench with a split head) loosen the union connections of the rigid fuel pipes on the back of the injection pump and each of the injectors. Remove the tubing assembly from the engine.

Prepare to collect spilled fuel - place a rag under the distributable union connections. Be careful not to deform the rigid fuel pipes under any circumstances.

9. Immediately plug the open ends of the fuel pipes and fittings to prevent dirt from entering the fuel system. Use a finger cut off from the rubber glove.

... or plug the fittings with a hollow bolt turned out from it, previously tightly fitted into a section of a hose suitable for the diameter.

10. Disconnect the vacuum tube from the idle speed increase device drive on the high pressure pump wall.

11. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the injection pump bracket (see Section Removal, installation and adjustment of the accelerator cable).

12. Having previously marked, disconnect the wiring from the following components:

a) Oil pressure switch on the left end of the cylinder head;
b) Oil temperature / pressure switch on the fuel filter support bracket;
c) Two connectors installed in a bracket on the left wall of the cylinder block;
d) The coolant temperature sensor on the coolant elbow in the front of the cylinder head.

13. Before removing the injection pump, mark the position of the fastening bolts in the oval holes - during assembly, the pump must be installed strictly in the same position in order to avoid violating the basic settings of the injection phases.
14. Remove the rear retaining bolt and three bolts from the front of the pump (see accompanying illustrations). Make sure nothing remains connected to the injection pump and remove the pump from the engine compartment.

1. Install the injection pump in its original place on the engine, tighten the fasteners with the required force.

The pump mounting holes are oval in shape to allow the pump to be positioned on the motor. When installing a new pump, the bolts should first be installed in the center of the holes for maximum adjustment range. The old pump is installed strictly in its former position in accordance with the marking applied during dismantling.

I will join Temka with a question (what would I not create another one). T4 1995 engine 1.9D 1X. The problem is this: it starts with a half turn, but it responds poorly to the pedal. The pedal is somehow firmly pressed, and it does not pick up momentum from the first centimeters of the pedal. A similar state was in the winter when the diesel fuel froze (the pedal to the floor, and the car did not spin, the fuel warmed up and it was normal), but now the salary does not freeze. At the same time, with a frozen salary, the car did not accelerate, and now, although it is tight, the machine accelerates 100. But there is no injectivity ..
changed the fuel filter a week ago, it seems like I went, but the next day it stupid again

what could this be? mileage 400 thousand. km. bulkhead injection pump? are the forces dying?
dviglo in the summer of 2011 completely otkapitalil - in the fuel did not climb.

and the number looks in the area of ​​the oil filter (bracket)

“Diesel Market"- Spare parts for engines: pistons, rings, liners, gaskets, sprayers, candles, plunger pairs, high pressure fuel pumps

AUTOWELT - spare parts for engines of Japanese and European cars

DENSODIESEL - the central distributor of DENSO for diesel injection systems in Russia

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VW T4. Engine, power supply system, exhaust system ⇒ T4 conveyor .1.9L injection pump Diesel fuel dripping from under the cap

Message Maxim Malkov »04 Jan 2011, 23:27

Message SpiderBUS71 »05 Jan 2011, 03:03

Message SpiderBUS71 »06 Jan 2011, 15:16

Message Maxim Malkov »07 Jan 2011, 01:23

Message SpiderBUS71 »07 Jan 2011, 01:31

Message Maxim Malkov »07 Jan 2011, 20:21

Message Maxim Malkov »09 Jan 2011, 12:26

Message Maxim Malkov »10 Jan 2011, 00:05

Message SpiderBUS71 »11 Jan 2011, 22:37

Message sanyalo »11 Jan 2011, 22:41

Message SpiderBUS71 »15 Jan 2011, 02:23

Message Maxim Malkov »28 Jan 2011, 00:51

High pressure fuel pump ⭐ (Injection pump) - the main structural element of the injection system of a diesel engine, which performs two main functions: the metered supply of fuel to the engine cylinders under pressure and the determination of the correct injection timing. After the advent of battery injection systems, the task of determining the moment of fuel delivery is performed by an electronic injector.

A schematic diagram of a diesel fuel supply system with a single-plunger distribution fuel pump (TNVD) with an end cam drive of the plunger is shown in the figure:

Rice. Schematic diagram of the fuel supply system of a diesel engine with a single-plunger injection pump: 1 - low pressure fuel line; 2 - thrust; 3 - fuel supply pedal; 4 - injection pump; 5 - electromagnetic valve; 6 - high pressure fuel line; 7 - fuel line of the drain line; 8 - nozzle; 9 - glow plug; 10 - fuel filter; 11 - fuel tank; 12 - fuel priming pump (used for long-distance highways; 13 - storage battery; 14 - ignition switch; 15 - glow plug time control unit

The fuel pump delivers a strictly metered amount of fuel under high pressure to the cylinders of the diesel engine at a certain point in time, depending on the load and speed mode, therefore, the characteristics of the engines significantly depend on the operation of the injection pump.

The VE distribution pump diagram is shown in the first figure, and its general view is shown in the next.

The main functional blocks of the VE fuel pump are:

• low pressure rotary vane fuel pump with bypass control valve
• high pressure unit with distributor head and metering sleeve
• automatic speed controller with a system of levers and springs
• solenoid shut-off valve that cuts off the fuel supply
• automatic device (automatic) for changing the fuel injection advance angle

Rice. Fuel pump diagram - Bosch VE: 1 - pump drive shaft; 2 - bypass valve for internal pressure regulation; 3 - fuel feed control lever; 4 - weights of the regulator; 5 - fuel drain jet; 6 - full load adjustment screw; 7 - regulator transmission lever; 8 - solenoid valve for stopping the engine; 9 - plunger 10 - central plug; 11 - discharge valve; 12 - metering sleeve; 13 - cam disk; 14 - automatic fuel injection advance; 15 - roller; 16 - clutch; 17 - low pressure fuel priming pump

Rice. General view of the distribution injection pump VE: a - injection pump; b - high-pressure unit with a distributor head and a metering sleeve. The positions correspond to the positions in the previous figure.

The distributor injection pump VE can also be equipped with various additional devices, for example, fuel correctors or a cold start accelerator, which allow the injection pump to be individually adapted to the characteristics of a given diesel engine.

The drive shaft 1 of the fuel pump is located inside the high-pressure fuel pump housing, the rotor 17 of the low-pressure fuel pump and the gear wheel of the drive shaft of the regulator with weights 4 are installed on the shaft. The injection pump is carried out from the crankshaft of the diesel engine, by gear or belt transmission. In four-stroke engines, the injection pump shaft speed is half of the crankshaft rotation speed, and the distribution injection pump operates in such a way that the translational movement of the plunger is synchronized with the movement of the pistons in the diesel cylinders, and the rotational one ensures the distribution of fuel among the cylinders. The translational movement is provided by a cam washer, and the rotary movement is provided by the fuel pump shaft.

The automatic speed regulator includes centrifugal weights 4, which, through the regulator clutch and the system of levers, act on the metering clutch 12, thus changing the amount of fuel supply depending on the speed and load modes of the diesel engine. The injection pump housing is closed from above with a cover in which the axis of the control lever associated with the accelerator pedal is installed.

An automatic fuel injection advance device is a hydraulic device, the operation of which is determined by the fuel pressure in the inner cavity of the high pressure fuel pump, created by a low pressure fuel pump with a control bypass valve 2.