DIY repair of fuel pump d4

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of fuel pump d4 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Russian Club of Car Lovers Toyota

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Guys, I tried to analyze your answers with the experts I have around. Great doubts. When buying a D4, I heard that he was capricious to gasoline. But, supposedly, 98 will suit. Maybe this gasoline is shit too. There are examples in Moscow when nozzles were changed every 20,000 on a not weak “Merce”. Maybe this is the problem? I also heard that in Vl-ke our clever men “split” D4. They are soldering some kind of resistance and "adjusting their brains" to our Motherland. In short, the car in winter behaved like a good girl. And in the summer like.

Regarding the cost of getting the injection pump for D4.
I called one firm in Moscow. It took a long time to explain about the injection pump for a gasoline injection engine. The guys were very surprised. Hasn't it reached Moscow yet? We were rummaging around for half an hour. Search result - injection pump is sold only as a collection. It costs 19,600 rubles. Terms of purchase: you come, you prepay, the next day they bring them in and you get them.
In principle, it means there is a high-pressure fuel pump. And it costs 650 bucks in Moscow. It can not be so deadly. I wonder where do they get them from so quickly? Maybe there are fuel injection pumps across the road for 600 bucks?
Is it worth clarifying for interest?
By the way, they said that they didn’t know European analogues yet and wouldn’t figure it out soon.
One thing is bad. I do not know this injection pump in person. I'm afraid I won't find out when we meet. After all, they can sell this, abruptly "Zelenka", and inverse problems are always more difficult. And what else is needed for him? Maybe some supply tubes or some other crap? The pressures, you say, are serious.
How does it change there correctly?

Video (click to play).

Yeah, so this thing is about the size of pi. the link from the clock is the notorious injection pump!
And it only costs 650 bucks, I respect. No wonder I didn't like her right away. Probably there is a small video camera inside. Yes, I sold my favorite Lada for exactly that kind of money. And they called me a Jew. But the confidence of the team inspires. On weekends to Moscow, to the fair, to go shopping.
You say D4 is the Japanese scientific and technological revolution trial balloon? Well, we'll make a parallelepiped out of it.

Sorry for a few days "slipped off the topic." I am dealing with the issue of minimizing the cost of purchasing a high-pressure fuel pump. It was already possible to take it, but I consider it my duty to study this issue for everyone, at least for Moscow firms. As soon as I calm down, I will immediately inform you and give “the ends”. I think for everyone from the “club of right-handed people with direct” it will be important. Everyone will have friends and acquaintances if they want to, if the savings are significant. In Moscow, you can find a high-pressure fuel pump for $ 650, I already wrote, but I found guys where it costs about 18,500 rubles. This is if you receive it within two days. There are options for under $ 600. How much less, I have not yet found out, but this is an order with a deadline of up to 1.5 months.
This is already approximately the potential retail price in Japan, as I understand it from the information of serious guys from our discussion.
All the same, for Siberians this is not a cost of $ 590 + 30 (80)%.
But, the issue of pricing is also not so simple. There are discounts from official dealers and their selling "markups". And there is work to be done here.
Now I would be grateful for a hint.
.

- in my practice, I already have experience replacing 3s-fse with 3s-fe and 3s-ge.
with the first car, there were almost no problems in the car to mine in '97 3s-fe engine got up without problems wiring too. But I had to fight a lot with Vista Ardeo, the computer is tied with a digital bus to the floor of the car, the machine cannot be changed - the other is not included in size, I had to knit two computers with all the wiring harnesses in a heap. In both cases, the replacement cost did not exceed the cost of the high pressure pump.So there is a choice - to change one small but expensive part or change the entire internal combustion engine. Although I must admit that it was not possible to completely preserve all the advantages of the machines when replacing

- Since January 2003, Toyota has officially started selling cars with the D-4 engine in Russia and other European countries. The sulfur content in gasoline is, in most cases, within the normal range.
Therefore, problems should not be looked for in this. Sulfur affects the cleanliness of the exhaust, not the injectors. The nozzles are clogged with dirt. 98 gasoline is no better than 92, but from 98 valves can burn out.

Toyota-Club Note:
D-4 engines were officially imported into Russia “by force”. Toyota themselves explain it like this: “. people who buy new Avensis, in their mass, least of all think about how the engine will work for him, but he wants to have the car in the maximum configuration (mentality peculiarities. “And around the corner these ties are a piece more expensive!”), and will still take them, directly in Europe, through gray dealers. So for the company it is better to satisfy the demand, and then time will tell. “After all, D-4 is a lottery, maybe not everyone will fly, and not from the very first day. Well, the guarantee - you will get it first :).

Regarding “adaptation to Russian conditions”, the following is known: “. new plugs are used, the ignition timing settings have been changed, and a few minor changes have been made. “That is, not that the power supply system has been improved (understandably, it is structurally impossible, and financially unprofitable), the famous iridium catalyst (which is killed by a drop of sulfur) has not even been eliminated. So, in fact, there is no question of any adaptation.

The high pressure fuel pump, in short - high pressure fuel pump is an integral part of modern diesel engines. The high pressure fuel pump is designed to supply fuel to the cylinders in strictly defined quantities in certain cycles of the diesel engine.

Fuel pumps differ in the type of fuel injection:

direct injection of a diesel engine (the supply of a diesel engine and its injection into the cylinders take place simultaneously);

battery injection (pressurized fuel is accumulated in a special "accumulator" and then supplied to the injectors).

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Also, high pressure fuel pumps may differ among themselves in types, pumps can be of the following designs:
in-line;

multi-section;

distribution.

If you do not go into the "jungle" of design differences between pumps of different types, then you can simply identify certain differences between them. In in-line and multi-section pumps, each section supplies diesel to its "own" cylinder. In distribution pumps, one "block" is capable of supplying several cylinders with diesel.

Also, another difference between the injection pump is their "power" - the number of cylinders the pump is designed for and its pressure. In general, these are all obvious differences between the pumps. In general, these are the main differences between the pumps.Now we will no longer torment our readers with theories about the operation of injection pumps and their primitive characteristics, which have long been described on the Internet in large quantities. Let's move on to the immediate specifics.

The engine manufacturer Mitsubishi is deliberately omitted here. This is due to the fact that at the moment there are several derivatives of this engine. Accordingly, they have a minimum of design differences, and the injection pump is suitable for both motors.

To be more specific, this is the same engine as the Hyundai D4BH, the pump for it has full compatibility with the 4D56T internal combustion engine (the differences between the 4D56 and 4D56T internal combustion engines are insignificant, the "T" index indicates a turbocharged engine).

The pump itself for the above engines, there is only one, produced by Zexel (aka Diezel Kiki), and now BOSCH.Yes, final suppliers and packaging may vary, but in the end, injection pumps for these motors can only be obtained from Zexel or BOSCH.

Basically, the accelerated output of the injection pump on these engines is caused by low quality fuel, as well as by the ingress of foreign elements into the system, which often occurs when loose connections and driving over rough terrain, fords, etc.

The main problems with the injection pump on these engines are as follows:

Damage (due to accelerated wear) of the internal parts of the pump - the plunger pair, bearings and other parts.

Contamination of the filter (protective mesh and element) due to the ingress of foreign elements into the system.

Increased or floating revolutions due to the so-called. "Airing" of the system - the ingress of air into the system due to loose connections and worn out gaskets and seals.

Poor engine start in cold weather, caused by a jammed or broken thermostat (located on the left side of the pump, injection advance mechanism).

Other breakdowns associated with the rest of the elements - spark plugs, automatic heating, fuel supply, diesel injection advance angle settings.

Until now, the debate about which injection pump for 4D56 / 4M40 / D4BH engines is better, electronic or mechanical, does not subside. How big are the differences in the injection pump themselves and the attachment electronics for the pumps. Is it relevant to replace an electronic fuel pump with a mechanical one. Let's take a closer look.

So, the main difference in this moment is not the pump itself, but the equipment (electronics or mechanics) that activates the fuel supply system, depending on one or another mode of engine operation. In a mechanical injection pump, activation occurs due to the direct mechanical control of the injection pump. A cable runs from the gas pedal to the pump, which controls the system. In an electronic injection pump (EFI), the gas pedal is already electronic and the system is activated through the accompanying electronic units and sensors.

There is also a version about the existence of a cable drive for controlling an electronic injection pump (there is a control rheostat on the pump itself), but our editorial staff could not verify the reliability of this particular information.

Structural diagram of a mechanical pump:

The advantages of a mechanical injection pump:

ease of maintenance;

reliability (due to fewer electronic components and sensors, which often "love" fail);

cost, as a rule, mechanical pumps are cheaper than their electronic "counterparts".

Disadvantages of a mechanical injection pump:

the absence of any indication systems and the quality of the units;

the need to fine-tune the parameters and monitor the state of all related elements of the system (spark plugs, fuel pump, diesel injection timing device);

increased consumption compared to an electronic pump.

slightly worse traction performance at high rpm compared to an electronic pump.

Structural diagram of an electronic pump:

The advantages of an electronic injection pump:

more stable operation of the engine, the absence of "floating" revolutions with serviceable accompanying elements (candles, injection advance mechanism, etc.), including electronic components and sensors;

reduced fuel consumption compared to a mechanical pump;

traction performance at high rpm is slightly better than that of vehicles equipped with mechanical pumps;

the ability to read errors through electronic control units.

Disadvantages of electronic injection pump:

a large number of sensors and other electronics, and this complicates vehicle repairs and increases the cost of maintenance;

difficulties in finding some electronic components;

difficulties in the selection of the pump itself and its components, since there are a large number of different variations with hinged electronics and they are different depending on the make and model of the car;

the reliability of electronic pump units is lower than that of mechanical ones, since electronic components and sensors can often fail.

Before proceeding with the description of the process of removing the pump from the car, it should be mentioned that this article is not a guide to work on a specific car!

Zexel injection pump (aka Diezel Kiki or BOSCH) is equipped with a large number of cars with 4D56, 4M40, D4BH engines. Moreover, this family of engines is installed on completely different cars in terms of their characteristics and arrangement of units, such as Pajero Sport and Hyundai Oldax, so the attachments will be different in most cases. We will just talk about the pump removal process in general terms, without delving into the design differences between cars of different brands equipped with these engines and pumps.

To remove the pump, you will need to do the following:

remove all electrical wiring from the pump itself;

remove the cooling pipes from the intercooler;

unscrew the high-pressure lines, for this use the key for "14";

after which it is necessary to remove the nozzles, this is done with a long head on "22";

then remove the washers (2 pcs.) from the wells for the nozzles;

after which it is necessary to clean the wells of dirt, etc. and close the nozzle seats with a clean rag or glue it tightly;

after the above actions, it is necessary to remove the timing mechanism (for more information about removing the timing mechanism, see the book on repairing a specific car);

as soon as the timing is removed, it is necessary to remove the fuel injection pump sprocket and be sure to set marks on the injection pump and the engine block, this is done so that later it would be easier to install the pump and perform its adjustment;

as soon as all the above steps are completed, you can unscrew the fastening bolts of the injection pump.

The pump is removed, now, depending on the problems, it can be sent to the service to the master. Well, or do it yourself if the breakdown is not very serious.

The installation of the injection pump is carried out in the reverse order: installation of bolts, connection of vacuum hoses and electricity, etc. However, it should be noted that when installing the pump, be sure to set the marks in the correct position! In addition, it should be remembered that the elements of the high pressure system must be installed using a torque wrench. We attach the tightening forces of each element during installation:

nozzles - 55-60Nm;

high pressure pipes - 30Nm;

return pipes - 25-30 Nm.

Blue - speed sensor (tachometer, not always present)

Red - fuel cut-off valve (muffler)

Yellow - pressure valve.

Green is the plunger itself.

Black - the axis of the fuel lever. The same is available on the back of the pump. It is better to remove (but not completely unscrew) them at the initial stage of disassembly.

For work you will need: a set of heads, a set of hexagons, tweezers, screwdrivers, a gas wrench, a caliper, a vice, a clean rag, a container with clean diesel fuel, a grease (Litol, CV joint, etc.) -))

A mesh filter is installed inside, which, as a rule, cannot be washed. Removal has no “contraindications” (yellow arrow).

Has a calibrated hole on the side surface (red arrow). Different pumps have different sizes, so replacing them with another leads to a change in the internal pressure in the pump.

I think no comments are needed. Council - the drive itself should not be disassembled.

Yellow - speed sensor

Green - "jammer".

Black - centrifugal speed controller.

Blue - fuel drive lever.

Here one difficulty is to get to one of the 3 bolts. There are only two options:

Disassemble the drive (carefully, there is a powerful spring! + REMEMBER the setting of the adjusting bolt), and then calmly unscrew the rest.

Unscrew 2 "light" bolts under the key "by 10", loosen the third, "heavy" one, and pushing the assembly aside, slowly unscrew it.

It should look like this:

Yellow - O-ring

Red- adjusting bolt of the automatic advance switch

Green - the cover of the advancing machine.

Remember (write down) the bolt head protrusion (red arrow) above the cover (green arrow). If in the process you decide to unscrew this bolt, during assembly it will be necessary to return the dimensions to their original state.

Blue - the axis of the speed regulator.

Black - mating plane.

Attention! For pumps with RIGHT rotation, the thread on the shaft will be LEFT and vice versa!

If you can find a tool, unscrew the pressure regulator.

Now the fun begins. Parsing includes nodes consisting of several parts. Moreover, the details cannot "live" without each other. That is, they simply cannot be confused with each other.

Red - pressure valve body

Green - spring returnable

Blue - valve needle

Yellow - valve seat

Black - sealing washer.

The plug under the red arrow does not need to be unscrewed; it serves to install the indicator. The fact is that the ignition on diesels is placed not so much on the marks. Rather, initially, the moment of injection is set according to the indicator, and only then the mark that we see is applied. We will omit this procedure for now, the turn will come to it.

So, turn off the cap (blue arrow). This is where the gas wrench comes in handy. The thread of the plug is right-hand.

Blue - plunger body

Red - plunger.

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the amount by which the plunger sinks into the body. We measure the results, write them down, they will come in handy during assembly.

We release the fastening screws (but not completely), and gently shaking, we move the plunger body up. As soon as it is free, we finally unscrew the screws and remove the plunger body. You should get the following picture:

Blue - plunger

Yellow - dosing ring

Red - washer - bearing

Brown - base plate

Black - spring

Green - adjusting washers.

Black - Plunger Shim

Red - cam washer.

Green - fuel delivery lever. I managed to take it off earlier.

Attention!! We do not remove the videos, we do not change them in places.

Remove the stopper (shown with a screwdriver).

We see a pin under the stopper. Shown also with a screwdriver (it is magnetized, the pin can be easily removed by it).

Remove the cam washer drive.

In the interior of the vacated space, push the axis of the advancing automaton:

For convenience, I deleted 1 video, there is nothing criminal here. Pull the roller ring outward for the axis of the advancing automaton. Caution, do not use unnecessary effort! At the slightest misalignment, the ring wedges in the body. Attempts to pull it out "insolently" will end in disrepair - the pump casing will be scrapped.

It should look something like this:

For the 2 "horns" sticking out in the depths of the pump, we take out the pump shaft with the gear of the regulator:

We return to the "remains" of the pump:

We release the bolts (blue arrows) and take out the booster pump cover (red arrow).

We turn over the pump housing.

We remove the oil seal (shown with a screwdriver). Warning - don't try to save it, it won't work anyway.

As a result, a bare body with a bushing pressed into it should remain. Like this:

This video is about repair of fuel equipment on diesel engines... The story is about a specialized car service that deals exclusively with diesel engines. It is almost impossible to repair a high-pressure fuel pump with your own hands, so people turn to specialists.
The director of the service gives interviews, where he talks about the work of the company, about which equipment most often gets to them. We also talk about equipment and special tools that are used in the repair of both old-style and new diesel engines, in particular engines equipped with a Common Rail system.

The video also demonstrates diagnostic equipment, with the help of which the auto mechanics of this center identify problems in the fuel network of a diesel engine. This equipment is a special test bench with which it is possible to carry out a complete check of the operation of the fuel systems.
The principle of checking after the repair of the injection pump on such a stand is as follows: the pump is installed on the stand, the required rpm values are set, and the amount of diesel fuel that the pump delivers to different cylinders is recorded.

In addition, employees of the center show a stand where diesel engine injectors are tested. They first go through the bulkhead and replacement of the necessary parts. When installing the nozzle on the stand, its pressure and the correctness of the spray are checked.

The main element of the injection pump is a plunger pair. It is a long piston of a small diameter (as a rule, the diameter of the device is several times less than its length), which is fitted as closely as possible to the working cylinder. The gap between them (it is called precision mating) never exceeds 1-3 microns. The working cylinder contains intake valves (two or one) through which fuel is supplied. Then it is pushed out by a plunger through the outlet valve.

Pumps are structurally divided into three types:

distribution: 1 or 2 plungers are installed in it, which inject fuel and distribute them over the existing cylinders;

in-line: has a separate plunger pair;

trunk: they are responsible for pumping fuel into the accumulator.

Pump worn out. It is not difficult to determine it by such phenomena as loud and uneven operation of the engine, complicated start-up in a hot state, loss of power.

Use of low quality diesel fuel. The fuel is used for the moving parts of the injection pump as a lubricant. If it includes certain impurities (dirt particles, drops of gasoline or water), its lubricating capabilities are reduced, which causes the pump to fail.

Incorrect operation of electronic devices installed on the vehicle.

When repairing a high-pressure fuel pump, it is most often required to replace worn-out parts, and this can be done only by disassembling the device. In principle, it is not so difficult to carry out repair work yourself if you arm yourself with the knowledge of the device of the fuel pump, as well as a set of special tools (vise, gas wrench, tweezers, a set of hexagons and heads, vernier caliper, screwdriver). But experts always recommend trusting them to the masters of service stations and car services.

Periodic adjustment of high pressure pumps is a mandatory procedure, without which normal and reliable operation of the entire diesel engine is impossible. It is held at special stands (for example, at SDTA-1). The injection advance clutch is dismantled from the device (it works in automatic mode), the camshaft is coupled to the stand drive.

After that, the necessary checks are carried out, during which the uniformity and amount of fuel supply, as well as the beginning of the supply, are adjusted. For these purposes, a special mechanism is used to drive the shutter. The latter is introduced between the measuring cylinders and the reference injectors at the moment when the supply is turned off, which prevents the fuel from entering the cylinders.

Video (click to play).

To regulate the start of the feed, a momentoscope is used (a small piece of fuel line, to which a glass tube is connected). And in order to adjust the moment of the beginning of the feed, adjusting bolts are used, which are screwed into the plunger pushers.