In detail: do-it-yourself gdi 4g94 injection pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Continuation:
We unscrew the “fuel pulsation damper” (not unscrewed it will slightly interfere), read the name of the MEK, twisted by 4 hexagon bolts, it is quite clean under it.
Then, unscrew the cover 2 of the hexagon bolts, hold it with your hand, under it there is a spring (elastic enough) and carefully so as not to damage the corrugation ..
We open it slightly, there we see this very spring, under it the corrugation is “hidden”, we remove the spring, we take out a small roller with a support plate from the removed case.
we see a nut with internal hooks in the amount of 6 pieces, we make a key for it (described above, in the first post)
So, the “cunning nut” is twisted, let's open it ..
I got a little worried about removing the corrugation, hooked up with just 2 screwdrivers, there is a small protrusion, it was removed. To remove the top plate, you need to remove the rubber ring (photo), and then the funniest thing in the photo can be seen in principle. Sandpaper was taken in 3 grit sizes (600, 1000, 2000) and in order.
total grinding and polishing time took 3.5 hours. after sandpaper, I walked with a felt roller with GOI paste (photo) everything glitters and sparkles ..
Putting them in the reverse order put 3 plates, by the way, do not mix them up there are pins there, put the top plate (we don’t forget to put the rubber band) put the corrugation and bait the nut on top. I tightened the nut, again in a vice and with an assistant, in 2 steps (tightened, allowed to stand for 5 minutes, tightened one more time).
We put the lid in place, with the rubber sealing ring of the lid more careful !! We fasten the damper, the body is assembled. We change the filters for new ones. Then I found at the outlet of the high-pressure fuel pump, in addition to the filter, a shiny ring from the old one, “carefully” left by the previous owner, removed it again with a self-tapping screw, but with a large diameter (photo).
Almost as good as new
 |
Video (click to play). |
And further. Floating rpm at idle does not always drop in pressure. Usually in conjunction with the tapping of wetsuits.
I solved this issue like this. And everything is quiet and does not float.
php? 22065.315
In the GDI, it is important to clean the throttle and injectors.
Be sure to flush the fuel with this
08 & like_name = 1
Pouring oil Liquid-Moli for Japanese machines ASIA 5-w30
And there will be no noise from the gidrik. And the revolutions will stop floating
Pouring oil Liquid-Moli for Japanese machines ASIA 5-w30
And there will be no noise from the gidrik. And the revolutions will stop floating
I advertised the liquor mills in full, my wetsuits did not knock and the revs did not float, the throttle valve was clean.
———- Added at 15:19 ———- Previous post was posted at 15:15 ———-
tt1488 nope (the pressure has risen a little, 39-40 MPa, the engine has become a little smoother, the diagnostician says that it is some kind of pressure regulator or pressure sensor that is most likely to blame, for the sake of interest I will change the maintenance station to another, whatever they say.
I will ask BAN for the title of the topic. ABOVE IT IS WRITTEN IN CAPITAL LETTERS HOW TO NAME THEMES!
———- Added at 14:54 ———- Previous post was posted at 14:53 ———-
You will never see your useful and high-quality material in FAK! Because for me this topic is already “in the fake”.
- = andry = - »Mon, 22 Jun 2009 13:53
2001 Aspire 4G94
The CHECK lights up, error P0190.
Starts up normally, turns on XX do not float.
The rpm does not rise above 4000 in neutral, it twitches during acceleration, barely eats.
The pressure shows in the region of 0.6V at XX.
When the pedal is pressed sharply to the floor, it sneezes, dips appear, and loud bangs are heard.
After cleaning the throttle valve and replacing the mesh in the tank, replacing the fuel filter, two filters for the inlet and outlet, no results.
Candles are normal.
After cleaning, the pressure was checked with a voltmeter on the pressure sensor, in the range from 0.8V - 0.9V at XX, at 3000 rev / s it rises to 1.2V - 1.3V.
And yet, while the CHECK is off, the car “does not go”, as soon as the CHECK light comes on, the car drives as usual, the revs rise briskly.
As soon as the light goes out, it does not gain momentum again, it twitches during acceleration, what can it be?
He took off the injection pump, the nut was unscrewed by hand.
The plates were unsatisfactory, they removed the plaque, cleaned, sanded.
Collected, put back, zero effect.
pressure as it was 0.8 - 1.0 Volts at idle, and remained.
I tried to tighten the pressure bolt on the injection pump, no changes.
Now the P0170 code comes on.
P0190 has not appeared yet, but it's strange why, because the pressure is 1.2 volts.
Please give advice on what else can be done?
There are specialists in Tyumen who have already restored the high-pressure fuel pump, please respond?
Jonnik »Mon, 22 Jun 2009 14:00
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valentine 30 Apr 2009
Well, if on Uncle Mek's knee
And on your xs, try reading the manual on his website
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valentine 30 Apr 2009
Well, if on Uncle Mek's knee
And on your xs, try reading the manual on his website
no, but even our strawberries from St. Petersburg go to Moscow to repair the high-pressure fuel pump. A vivid example of Makesha
and you give your hard-earned 7 tykofs to the master felt-tip pen, he will do you, and in a month you will get up again, and what will you do? And what infuriates you is your problem, a master with a capital letter, who is known far beyond the territory of Moscow!
Alternatively, ask him a question on the forum about the possibility of advising a master in Novosibirsk, suddenly it will work out.
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valentine 30 Apr 2009
Alternatively, ask him a question on the forum about the possibility of advising a master in Novosibirsk, suddenly it will work out.
I didn’t write that he had absolutely everything in chocolate, talk about something else!
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AndreyN Apr 30, 2009
Repair of fuel pump at MEK - i.e. banal grinding of plates - 7000r.
Any diesel operator, or well versed in high pressure pumps, can easily repair our injection pump.
In order to know what to do - read the section about GDI on the autodate.
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AndreyN Apr 30, 2009
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AndreyN 01 May 2009
Polishing plates
gdi_1 / fp_15.jpg
Post has been editedAndreyN: 01 May 2009 - 00:56
and with your paws you can fit in 500 rubles. + clean the intake valves, manifold, sist. circulation neg. gases, damper, rinse the force., do decarbonization and all this along the way during the 1st day. but there is one thing but the paws should be on friendly terms with the head, the tool is needed and the garage.
and about the cutoff, the valve inside the injection pump must be cleaned, and especially the return valve.
Dragona has a chorus .. statics!
Post has been editedBlack_Neon: 18 February 2010 - 19:19
Hello! 1998 Carisma car, 4G93 GDI engine. She abruptly stopped driving, according to her mother (the car belongs to her). After reading the forum, certain manipulations were made to determine the cause:
1. Self-diagnosis error codes - 12, 13, 25.
2. Voltage at the high pressure sensor of the high pressure fuel pump, XX - 0.75: 2000 rpm - 0.98. Measurements were made with a voltmeter, plus on the middle wire of the sensor, minus on the battery terminal.
Symptoms are such that it starts up and works on the XX, picks up speed, if you smoothly press on the accelerator pedal, if abruptly, then it chokes and detonation appears.
Please tell me how to determine that the injection pump is dead or something else. It's just that the nearest station is 100 km away from me, where they can diagnose the GDI engine, and I don't want the reason to be in a banal filter. The revs did not float and do not float, up to this point the car worked smoothly, the throttle response was excellent. This problem happened abruptly. The engine costs a contract and was bought together with a high-pressure fuel pump.
Need advice to rule out the rest. Maybe we need to look at something else, check it out. Which gives symptoms like mine.
Hello! 1998 Carisma car, 4G93 GDI engine.She abruptly stopped driving, according to her mother (the car belongs to her). After reading the forum, certain manipulations were made to determine the cause:
1. Self-diagnosis error codes - 12, 13, 25.
2. Voltage at the high pressure sensor of the high pressure fuel pump, XX - 0.75: 2000 rpm - 0.98. Measurements were made with a voltmeter, plus on the middle wire of the sensor, minus on the battery terminal.
Symptoms are such that it starts up and works on the XX, picks up speed, if you smoothly press on the accelerator pedal, if abruptly, then it chokes and detonation appears.
Please tell me how to determine that the injection pump is dead or something else.
According to claim 1, the impression is that the DMRV connector was disconnected when the engine was running. In it, physically, there are three sensors - the actual mass air flow sensor on the Karman vortices (12th error), the temperature sensor of the incoming air (13th error) and the barometric pressure sensor (25th error). The simultaneous output of all three sensors is unlikely, which means that the connector was simply disconnected.
According to claim 2 - yes, a dead injection pump. How to determine? - you have already determined it with the highest possible probability.
What to do - remove the battery terminal for 30 seconds. All hover errors will be cleared. If the DMRV really died, then after the start-up, the errors will appear again.
After that, you need to teach the damper, otherwise it will be very capricious with every braking.
But, more correctly, do not touch the battery terminals for now, I am sure that everything is in order with the DMRV, but to do the injection pump, Read carefully> soberly evaluate
our strength and do. Yes, first we change the MD619962 filter at the input to the injection pump and measure the voltage again.
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, Thanks for the answer. I also assumed about these errors and did not take them much into account. And I also thought first to change the filter at the inlet of the injection pump. The only thing I still thought was to change the filter in the fuel pump in the tank. I used to live in Novosibirsk and I had a Pajero IO GDI car, and so once I had a similar problem, though I was serviced by Alexei's GDI service, and replacing the filter in the tank and in the injection pump solved this problem. True, I didn’t measure the pressure of the high-pressure fuel pump, and I wasn’t why I was there, I was a competent and good specialist, but here where I live now, alas, there are no such people, so I have to try to do everything myself, with your help. Thanks again for your advice.
By the way, can you tell me which manufacturer is better to buy a filter for the fuel pump in the tank? The original, alas, do not sell with us?
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, Thanks for the answer. I also assumed about these errors and did not take them much into account. And I also thought first to change the filter at the inlet of the injection pump. The only thing I still thought was to change the filter in the fuel pump in the tank. I used to live in Novosibirsk and I had a Pajero IO GDI car, and so once I had a similar problem, though I was serviced by Alexei's GDI service, and replacing the filter in the tank and in the injection pump solved this problem. True, I didn’t measure the pressure of the high-pressure fuel pump, and I wasn’t why I was there, I was a competent and good specialist, but here where I live now, alas, there are no such people, so I have to try to do everything myself, with your help. Thanks again for your advice.
By the way, can you tell me which manufacturer is better to buy a filter for the fuel pump in the tank? The original, alas, do not sell with us?
I bought myself at the bazaar, taking with me the old one I had removed. The first time I bought some Toyotovsky, but one-to-one, and the second time, someone's analogue of my own.
High pressure fuel pump (three-piece)
1 - fuel tank
2 - fuel filter
3 - filtric
4 - compensator-limiting fuel pulsation (low pressure)
5 - ball-type bypass valve (low pressure)
6 - plates
7 - ball-type bypass valve (high pressure)
8 - plate valve on the line of dumping leaks from the supra-plunger space
9 - compensation chamber of high pressure
10 - fuel rail
11 - filter
12 - high pressure regulator
When the engine is started, the fuel priming pump, located in the fuel tank 1, starts to operate.
Under a pressure of about 0.3 MPa, the fuel passes through the fuel filter 2 and enters the injection pump through the filter 3, which is structurally located in the pulsation compensator-limiter
fuel 4.
This is where the separation of the fuel lines (highways) takes place.
Low pressure line:
1 - fuel tank
2 - fuel filter 3 - expansion joint-limiter 4 - ball-type bypass valve 8 - compensation chamber (located parallel to the fuel flow) 9 - fuel rail
This picture has already been published, but it is not superfluous to repeat it “in the subject”.
Possible malfunctions when the filter is “clogged”: - poor engine start and not the first time
- unstable engine operation at XX
- uncertain acceleration
- no kick-down mode
- incorrect and unstable transition from the mode of operation with an ultra-lean fuel mixture to the mode of operation with a stoichiometric composition of fuel assemblies
As practice shows mek, it happened, and not so rarely, that when disassembling the high-pressure fuel pump, it turned out that there was no “filter” inside.
Nonsense, but true.
And there is no "filter" - that's it. soon an old woman with a scythe behind her shoulders will come to your pump and call him on a long journey.
She will come a little later and with the filter in such a state as in the above photo. See why?
"Little hole". Surely the reason was someone's "playful hands".
Note:Information provided by the workshop of Dmitry Yuryevich Kublitsky.
"The Moscow center of diagnostics and repair of systems GDI"
(Kublitsky Dmitry Jurjevich)
Note: this material will be further developed and expanded - there are already sketches of the following articles on the table, the basis of which is being prepared after 21-00, directly on the desktop mek and, most surprisingly, while talking about principles GDI it can take an hour or three hours - everything is imperceptible.
Because there is Passion and desire to become the Best.
More Better.
Pumps from the second generation are more reliable than the first generation high pressure fuel pumps. This is a very high-tech unit, and quite capricious in terms of fuel cleanliness. The main malfunctions of the high-pressure fuel pump arise due to untimely scheduled maintenance to replace the fuel filter and the intake grid in the tank, in addition, as an additional filtering of the fuel, it is recommended to install an additional fuel filter before entering the high-pressure fuel pump. During normal operation, the average resource of this type of injection pump is about 250,000 km, without its repair. In this case, as a rule, the plunger pair in the pump is in good condition, mainly the plate valves are worn out. sometimes there are cases of self-loosening of the fastening nut (pill-type pumps) tightening the entire structure (plates, plunger, corrugation), and if measures are not taken in time, the restoration of the plates will be very laborious. as the plates lose their shape and become uneven due to the constant shock load.
So, what should you pay attention to on the operation of the motor in order to prevent critical wear of the injection pump, and take action in time.
The very first sign if the revolutions began to float with the load turned on (position R or D) in the range from 600 to about 1200 rpm, with a frequency of 5-10 seconds
The engine does not develop rpm before cutoff, or develops them sluggishly
When the load is on (D or R), the check lamp is on.
With all these signs, it makes sense to check the fuel pressure. If no diagnostic scanner is available, the pressure can be checked using a conventional voltmeter. The pressure rating is for 4G93 non-turbo 3.0V (4.8MPA) 3.2V (5.0) MPA for Turbo motors. 2.9 in (4.7 for 4G15, when the pressure drops less than 2.6 in the ECU, it gives a command to increase the speed to stabilize the pressure, and so every time it drops less than 2.6 in). Having caught the normal value, the ECU gives a command to decrease the speed, and if it falls to xx, it repeats the command to increase them.
The signal can be read with a voltmeter from the middle contact of the fuel pressure sensor located on the fuel rail.In this case, the measurement must be carried out on a warm engine and on D or R, since under load, the speed begins to drop to 500-550 and the injection pump loses pressure if it is defective.
The ECU, on these cars, even in the worst case, a complete loss of high pressure (work only at the pressure created by the submersible pump), switches to the emergency program, and increases the opening time of the nozzle, by an interval of up to 3.2 milliseconds, instead of 0.51 milliseconds. (Mode of the lean mixture) at idle, and does not allow the engine to develop at more than 2000 rpm. min, this allows you to get to the car service.
Typical trouble codes for a drop in pressure or its instability according to the OBD 2 protocol, 0190 is an abnormal fuel pressure in the system and 0170 is a malfunction of the fuel supply system.
Pressure instability can also be associated with injector failure. If the nozzle needle hangs in the open position, there will be no pressure in the system, while, as a rule, gasoline enters the oil through the piston. When starting, the engine wedges a little, there is a risk of getting a water hammer. It is recommended to clean the injectors with Vince without removing them from the car every 30,000 km, before changing the engine oil.
Before you panic and get upset, you can try to do the following: unscrew the low-pressure fuel supply pipe before entering the high-pressure fuel pump, and clean the microfilter, check the condition of the fuel inlet mesh in the tank, if the fuel immersion filter has not been replaced for a long time (over 35,000-40,000 km) analyze the state of cleanliness of the fuel tank. The nominal pressure created by the low-pressure pump is 3.8-4.0 kg. If these measures did not lead to the desired result and the pressure did not return to normal, then the injection pump must be repaired or replaced.
Regarding the increased planting, through the EGR valve, the least costly and effective way to get rid of this problem is to install a solid partition between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, which prevents soot from entering the intake manifold. At the same time, the ECU does not see such alterations and the motor operates normally.
[Message modified by user 12/15/2009 11:07 am]
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- poor start-up and not the first time
- unstable engine operation at XX
- uncertain acceleration
- lack of "kick-down" mode
- incorrect and unstable transition during operation at XX from the mode of operation on an ultra-lean fuel mixture to the mode of operation on a stoichiometric composition (for more details, see another article).
So, in some workshops they go, in principle, the correct way from the point of view of technical thinking, namely: in order to "protect" the filter from "excess" dirt, an ordinary high pressure fuel filter is placed in front of it. That is, between the booster pump and the injection pump.
At the same time, forgetting that when developing the GDI, everything was taken into account, including the throughput of the filter, and the pressure that the booster pump develops, and the cross-section of the fuel lines. In a word, the so-called "golden mean" was brought out and embodied "in iron".
And if, like this - "blindly" and without any technical calculations, put an additional filter, which will create additional resistance to the fuel, then we will provoke a fairly quick failure of both the injection pump and the entire GDI system as a whole.
Because: any change in the performance of the booster pump, a slight "clogging" of the filter, etc. will reduce the optimal amount of fuel, and the injection pump will work at some moments
"a little dry." And lubrication and cooling, for example, of seven plungers in a single-section pump, is done exclusively with fuel.
And I'll add on my own - a problem after one of the refueling - microscopic metallized sand got into the system, which quietly passed through ALL FILTERS and FILTERS, including PM and nozzles - as a result, the entire system from the fuel pump to the nozzles was disassembled - for the operation on it took 2 days to remove / clean / assemble - wait, everything is fine 😉
Few or many comments. 1. The problem is not in GDI, but in low-quality gasoline, we will adhere to such a wording so as not to frighten people 🙂
2. Indeed, many recommend installing additional filters - they need to be installed near the gas tank, since it is not so easy to cut the & QUOT; hose & QUOT; under the hood, especially since the hose is a metal tube leading to the injection pump. Of course, you need to install not simple fine filters, otherwise I'm afraid they will simply break - the pump in the tank also develops not a little pressure :)))). Original filters cost about $ 50, and if you put 2 of them additionally, and even change them every 5 tyk, it doesn't come out on a budget. In my opinion, it's easier to replace the native filter every 20 tyk :))). If a native filter lets through some kind of particle, where is the guarantee that some other filter will delay it :)))).
3. All of the above, IMHO, of course, but my galant departed 20tyk across Moscow, refueling 98 on BP + Castrol TBE. Candles are still from the island :)))
Oh, those GDI myths. 🙂 The pressure between the tank and the injection pump is 3.4 atmospheres, i.e. the most common.
Add. the filter can only be cut into two places - into pieces of a rubber hose in the area of the gas tank and at the entrance to the high-pressure fuel pump, in the rest of the places there are iron pipes. At the same time, there is very little space in the area of the gas tank and it is dirty, and there is no need to get dirty under the hood when changing the filter.
EEE at the inlet of the injection pump is also an iron tube :))))) and there are not many places there 🙂 at all. And if you get a bad benz - and as Serge said - we will shoot with all the filters :))
Surprisingly, neither Vladivostok, nor Sakhalin Island, nor the cold city of Khabarovsk became the "homeland of repair" of direct fuel injection engines.
And what can we say about Penza, from where the pump (fuel pump) came to us GDI.
Fault "normal" - will not start.
But sometimes it can start, and then it works.
True, "troit" is a little bit, turnovers are "walking", but - it works.
It is necessary to repair, and for this it would be good to somehow check the sent parts for their performance, right?
Naturally, a "branded" or some similar stand for checking the injection pump GDI in Russia there is nowhere.
And in what way can you then check the sent injection pump and find a malfunction in it?
There is only one way, long and painstaking, but otherwise - how?
Only by installing the sent injection pump on the "donor" - an existing car with the same high-pressure fuel pump.
It is in this way - by substituting a high-pressure fuel pump on the "donor" engine, and all the parts sent for diagnostics and repair are repaired (for prices for such repairs - see the end of the article, a rather interesting note ...).
The injection pump, substituted for the "donor", began to work, but how - with the "swimming" of revolutions:
It is good that there was "some" experience, there were already certain "best practices" on this issue (why and why it can "pump" speed), therefore the type of this malfunction was determined quickly enough, having rechecked, of course, and according to the indications of a diagnostic scanner:
the notorious mistake got out P0190 , in the current characteristics it was clear that; the high pressure fuel pump has been "adjusted" to a pressure of approximately 8 Mpa.
Which means only one thing: the pump must be carefully sorted out, because it is not known what else could have been "adjusted" by those hands, which are called "naughty" among the Diagnosticians.
Well, "we take a brush and gasoline" ...
And only after a thorough bulkhead of the injection pump;
Number 2 in the photo shows exactly the place under the "hexagon", which "someone and once" twisted.
And he "turned" on a pressure of 8 Mpa, at which the pump could not work stably and all the time "pumped" the speed.
But if only that was the fault!
Alas, the most important thing was still unclear: why and for what reason the engine worked normally, but if it was “muffled”, it might not be started back.
Agree that repairing in this way - when only "spare parts" were sent in the parcel, it is both difficult and dreary.
With many unknowns.
And none of the most "expensive" equipment will help if there is no Experience and that substance in the head, which is called "gray".
Describe your troubleshooting experiments?
Long what to say.
And so let's go straight to what we "stumbled upon" after searching:
Yes, you thought correctly, this is the so-called driver injector, an electronic device that is responsible for the operation of injectors.
Outwardly, when examining it, either "simply" with the eyes, and with the help of a magnifying glass, nothing was found. Everything is normal and nothing aroused suspicion: "paths" of a workable type, nowhere are there traces of melting, "swellings", there is no characteristic smell of "something" burnt out.
Let's remember what is written in the "manuals". There are direct instructions on how to check: for heating, for twisting, for water ...
Do you remember?
The rest, as you correctly thought, is "a matter of technology."
After a very careful and very careful examination of the board, the reason was found.
There was "non-alcohol" and something else that was eliminated with the help of a soldering iron and our respected diagnostician Andrei Yuryevich, and of course, a certain baggage of knowledge.
At the beginning of the article, it was promised in a note to tell about the prices for such repairs.
We tell in the words of Dmitry Yuryevich: from Moscow
"With nonresident repairs, we, to be honest," fly over "a little, because if you take the Moscow prices for such repairs, then they are very different and - in a big way. We just take into account their financial situation and, despite the fact that there is more work (well, imagine what it means to "substitute" the injection pump on the "donor" car, and how many times you have to do it), and so, despite the greater volume of work, the prices for "Out-of-town repairs" - below.
Here is such a selfless statement.
Decide for yourself how to perceive it.
probably one of the first to repair his 1999 Mitsubishi Carisma. 4G93 engine. It was like this: I arrived at the station to Sergei on the advice of friends (having visited a dozen more stations before that), the problem was that the cutoff occurred earlier and earlier every month, at that time the turnover did not rise above 2000-2200. After talking with Sergei and talking about my misfortune, he offered to measure the fuel pressure in the system, connected a multimeter (a multimeter, not a pressure gauge), explaining that the pressure of the NVD is checked in this way. On the screen of the multimeter, numbers ran up (HZ what they mean), Sergei said that it was necessary to flush the entire NVD and grind some plates there, I left the car after discussing the time of my appearance on the call. The next day they called me and said DONE, without specifying the details, I went to the station. My swallow stood near the box and hummed with its motor (as they explained to me later, the process of adaptation of the throttle was taking place). I received an offer to ride, leaving a secondary road, I gave it to a sneaker, I was extremely surprised by the dynamics of the car, it did not tumble so much even at the time of its purchase.
To summarize: The cutoff has returned to its rightful place, the car has become more high-torque, the consumption of 12-14 liters has dropped significantly. city 10 highway, the pleasure of driving is back.
P.S. For the work, I paid 3000 + 300 for the filter (I did not specify what they did there, and I had no time for that) almost a year has passed since the repair - the flight is normal.
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Thank you, but the question is that gasoline capacity.
yeah. understandably. well, quarrel. you cut more the next time, in general I will send to the 412th to repair the shock absorbers. but how can the abbreviations be deciphered, otherwise they are too lazy to look?
about abbreviating GDI, becauseThe injection pump in mnu is associated (oval) exclusively with a diesel engine. By the way, write the brand of the engine, because as I understood from the fuel injection pump tyndeksa, there are different types of gasoline engines.
And what does 412 have to do with it?
how and what? there, too, the shock absorbers are being repaired ..
It is clear)) A similar situation with the high-pressure fuel pump, that is, linking this reduction to the diesel engine. GDI is something like a high pressure pump like a diesel engine. Mitsuh has ordinary motors, and GDI (usually GDI on the covers). I will not write the brand of the engines yet, I know that the car is Pajero.
about abbreviating GDI, because The injection pump in mnu is associated (oval) exclusively with a diesel engine. By the way, write the brand of the engine, because as I understood from the fuel injection pump tyndeksa, there are different types of gasoline engines.
how and what? there, too, the shock absorbers are being repaired ..
Well, then where do the shock absorbers?
It is clear)) A similar situation with the high-pressure fuel pump, that is, linking this reduction to the diesel engine. GDI is something like a high pressure pump like a diesel engine. Mitsuh has ordinary motors, and GDI (usually GDI on the covers). I will not write the brand of the engines yet, I know that the car is Pajero.
abbreviation GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection), which can be translated as "engine with direct fuel injection"
so it's still not a pump, but a motor. but due to the fact that
At the moment, cars with engines of the GDI system are produced by the following companies: Mitsubishi (6G-74, 4G-93, 4G-73)
For example, on the 6G-74 GDI engine, a membrane-type valve is involved in this, and on the 4G-94 GDI engine, as many as SEVEN small plungers,
then, accordingly, the repair will be different. although, due to the fact that my knowledge of these motors is limited to the last half hour, I may be wrong.
Well, then where do the shock absorbers?
Well, why are you attached to shock absorbers, well, well, I'll send it to 412 to repair the impeller.
The high pressure fuel pump, in short - high pressure fuel pump is an integral part of modern diesel engines. The high-pressure fuel pump is designed to supply fuel to the cylinders in strictly defined quantities in certain cycles of the diesel engine.
Fuel pumps differ in the type of fuel injection:
- direct injection of a diesel engine (the supply of a diesel engine and its injection into the cylinders take place simultaneously);
- battery injection (pressurized fuel is accumulated in a special "accumulator" and then supplied to the injectors).
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Also, high pressure fuel pumps may differ among themselves in types, pumps can be of the following designs:
- in-line;
- multi-section;
- distribution.
If you do not go into the "jungle" of design differences between pumps of different types, then you can simply identify certain differences between them. In in-line and multi-section pumps, each section supplies diesel to its "own" cylinder. In distribution pumps, one "block" is capable of supplying several cylinders with diesel.
Also, another difference between the injection pump is their "power" - how many cylinders the pump is designed for and its pressure. In general, these are all obvious differences between the pumps. In general, these are the main differences between the pumps.Now we will no longer torment our readers with theories about the operation of injection pumps and their primitive characteristics, which have long been described on the Internet in large quantities. Let's move on to the immediate specifics.
The engine manufacturer Mitsubishi is deliberately omitted here. This is due to the fact that at the moment there are several derivatives of this engine. Accordingly, they have a minimum of design differences, and the injection pump is suitable for both motors.
To be more specific, this is the same engine as the Hyundai D4BH, the pump for it has full compatibility with the 4D56T internal combustion engine (the differences between the 4D56 and 4D56T internal combustion engines are insignificant, the "T" index indicates a turbocharged engine).
The pump itself for the above engines, there is only one, produced by Zexel (aka Diezel Kiki), and now BOSCH. Yes, final suppliers and packaging may vary, but in the end, injection pumps for these motors can only be obtained from Zexel or BOSCH.
Basically, the accelerated output of the injection pump on these engines is caused by low quality fuel, as well as by the ingress of foreign elements into the system, which often occurs when loose connections and driving over rough terrain, fords, etc.
The main problems with the injection pump on these engines are as follows:
- Damage (due to accelerated wear) of the internal parts of the pump - the plunger pair, bearings and other parts.
- Contamination of the filter (protective mesh and element) due to the ingress of foreign elements into the system.
- Increased or floating speed due to the so-called. "Airing" of the system - the ingress of air into the system due to loose connections and worn out gaskets and seals.
- Poor engine start in cold weather, caused by a jammed or broken thermostat (located on the left side of the pump, injection advance mechanism).
- Other breakdowns associated with the rest of the elements - candles, automatic heating, fuel supply, diesel injection advance angle settings.
Until now, the debate about which injection pump for 4D56 / 4M40 / D4BH engines is better, electronic or mechanical, does not subside. How big are the differences in the injection pump themselves and the attachment electronics for the pumps. Is it relevant to replace an electronic fuel pump with a mechanical one? Let's take a closer look.
So, the main difference in this moment is not the pump itself, but the equipment (electronics or mechanics) that activates the fuel supply system, depending on one or another mode of engine operation. In a mechanical injection pump, activation occurs due to the direct mechanical control of the injection pump. A cable runs from the gas pedal to the pump, which controls the system. In an electronic injection pump (EFI), the gas pedal is already electronic and the system is activated through the accompanying electronic units and sensors.
There is also a version about the existence of a cable drive for controlling an electronic injection pump (there is a control rheostat on the pump itself), but our editorial staff could not verify the reliability of this particular information.
Structural diagram of a mechanical pump:
The advantages of a mechanical injection pump:
- ease of maintenance;
- reliability (due to fewer electronic components and sensors, which often "love" fail);
- cost, as a rule, mechanical pumps are cheaper than their electronic "counterparts".
Disadvantages of a mechanical injection pump:
- the absence of any indication systems and the quality of the operation of the units;
- the need to fine-tune the parameters and monitor the state of all related elements of the system (spark plugs, fuel pump, diesel injection timing device);
- increased consumption compared to an electronic pump.
- slightly worse traction performance at high rpm compared to an electronic pump.
Structural diagram of an electronic pump:
The advantages of an electronic injection pump:
- more stable operation of the engine, the absence of "floating" revolutions with serviceable accompanying elements (candles, injection advance mechanism, etc.), including electronic components and sensors;
- reduced fuel consumption compared to a mechanical pump;
- traction performance at high rpm is slightly better than that of vehicles equipped with mechanical pumps;
- the ability to read errors through electronic control units.
Disadvantages of electronic injection pump:
- a large number of sensors and other electronics, and this complicates vehicle repairs and increases the cost of maintenance;
- difficulties in finding some electronic components;
- difficulties in the selection of the pump itself and its components, since there are a large number of different variations with hinged electronics and they are different depending on the make and model of the car;
- the reliability of electronic pump units is lower than that of mechanical ones, because.electronic components and sensors can often fail.
Before proceeding with the description of the process of removing the pump from the car, it should be mentioned that this article is not a guide to work on a specific car!
Zexel injection pump (aka Diezel Kiki or BOSCH) is equipped with a large number of cars with 4D56, 4M40, D4BH engines. Moreover, this family of engines is installed on completely different cars in terms of their characteristics and arrangement of units, such as Pajero Sport and Hyundai Oldax, so the attachments will be different in most cases. We will just talk about the pump removal process in general terms, without delving into the design differences between cars of different brands equipped with these engines and pumps.
To remove the pump, you will need to do the following:
- remove all electrical wiring from the pump itself;
- remove the cooling pipes from the intercooler;
- unscrew the high-pressure lines, for this use the key for "14";
- after which it is necessary to remove the nozzles, this is done with a long head on "22";
- then remove the washers (2 pcs.) from the wells for the nozzles;
- after which it is necessary to clean the wells of dirt, etc. and close the nozzle seats with a clean rag or glue it tightly;
- after the above actions, it is necessary to remove the timing mechanism (for more information about removing the timing mechanism, see the book on repairing a specific car);
- as soon as the timing is removed, it is necessary to remove the fuel injection pump sprocket and be sure to set marks on the injection pump and the engine block, this is done so that later it would be easier to install the pump and perform its adjustment;
- as soon as all the above steps are completed, you can unscrew the fastening bolts of the injection pump.
The pump is removed, now, depending on the problems, it can be sent to the service to the master. Well, or do it yourself if the breakdown is not very serious.
The installation of the injection pump is carried out in the reverse order: installation of bolts, connection of vacuum hoses and electricity, etc. However, it should be noted that when installing the pump, be sure to set the marks in the correct position! In addition, it should be remembered that the elements of the high pressure system must be installed using a torque wrench. We attach the tightening forces of each element during installation:
- nozzles - 55-60Nm;
- high pressure pipes - 30Nm;
- return pipes - 25-30 Nm.
