Do-it-yourself pump repair mazda bongo friendy

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of fuel pump Mazda Bongo Friendi from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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I will share my humble experience. Auto MAZDA BONGO FRENDY, WLT engine. There were two problems. The first one is a GE error, number 0251. They searched for a long time, found stuck wires of the differential sensor. Someone had bitten off the plastic ties of the wiring harness earlier and did not restore everything after the repair (repair of what?). Further, from heating, the wiring began to “fall” onto the exhaust manifold. I could not fall on it, but it melted well, being at a distance of 5 mm from the collector. We restored the wiring - it buzzed. But, with interruptions and twitching. Opening the top cover showed play in the drive shaft axis. Then there was a renovation. Solved the problem of centralization, and twice. The first time I replaced the bearings. I bought two 688 bearings at the 3rd Moscow Gas Processing Plant, about 200 rubles each. Next, I unsoldered / disassembled the differential sensor board and the stator winding.

The rotor was pressed out without problems. The bearings were indeed eaten away by corrosion, and it was electrochemical. Significant currents flow in the winding of the servo, and when they leak, they corrode the metal very quickly. To dismantle the ferro-iron package from the rotor axis, I bought a puller from the Voronezh plant. Tight, but the movement has gone.

Before the final dismantling of the rotor from its axis, he made marks on both planes with a thin marker. I bought it at the Mitinsky radio market. These are used for drawing a pattern on foil-clad fiberglass in the handicraft production of printed circuit boards with radio amateurs. Very fine line and paint resistant. Otherwise, I could not put markers on the axle and the plate pack for the subsequent coaxial assembly of the rotor. The axle metal is extremely durable. Next, reassemble and check "in the field". While I was testing the repair technology, I studied the possibility of buying a new centralization. Just in case. The result is negative - out of production. Unexpectedly, I drew attention to the visual similarity of the centralization of Mazda to the analogue from the Nissan RD-28 diesel engine. The only difference is in the connectors of the wiring harness. Since the old centralization was already unsoldered, I unscrewed the connector from the new one, sealed off the conductors and made a replacement. The car has been rolling for more than a month without any problems. Inside, everything is identical.
The number of "Mazdovskaya" centralization: 12820-292-96756.
Number of "Patrol" centralization: 9 461 620 454 - 3СА

Video (click to play).

Reconsider all connections from the tank to the filter, check the tubes near the tank. Because of the air, the speed will fall rather than rise. Post subject: Re: Problems with the electrician of Denso fuel injection pump on the Russian Federation -2A | mazda forum.

Then the same fuel pump was used to pump fuel into the high-pressure fuel pump. They removed the fuel pump, again connected the injection pump with a hose with a fine filter. The tubes were unscrewed from the nozzles in turn and the air was released, turning the engine with the starter.

Subject number, Auto, Moto (Mazda Bongo Friendee, Maintenance, repair), answers: yes to the injection pump washers and not to the injectors !! For example, you can supply air to the removed fuel intake hose on the tank.

Primus Date: Thursday, Feb 11, Posted by Diesel Engines in Japan Cars Moderators: Dimas, Dizelraf. I washed the chips of this sensor again, dried them and connected them. I unscrewed the old valve, there was almost no salary inside. Group: V I P.

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Problems with the Denso injection pump electrician on the RF-2A .. RF Capella Is there anyone here with a dying spilvoy? Problems with the Denso injection pump electrician on the RF-2A mazda mazda forum Aug 08 A couple of times I spontaneously “got up” on the highway.

He conjured both with the supply of fuel and with the removal of bubbles from the fuel, until he pulled the plugs on the injection pump valves. How much does new motor wiring cost? Can I tightly solder the contacts and fill it with glue? Because of the air, the revs are more likely to fall than rise.Below there is also an advance valve, from under it salary sometimes leaks, from there airing is also possible. Aircraft has nothing to do with it. It's all about the crappy contacts on the very plugs of the high pressure fuel pump sensor connectors.

Today I stopped again, the incandescent light blinked There you will already look in more detail. It's useless to solder all the wires if the problem may turn out to be in another place. A match, cotton wool and twenty grams of alcohol saved the day for a while. The decorative plastic engine cover has taken its rightful place on the garage rack By the way, what is the resistance of the valve?

However, on my Denso bypass valve, this contact is such that it is barely possible to remove the connector. And this is the second pump. The car was changed as it was - it breaks from the spot, runs perfectly in all modes. For this topic, I repacked the plugs on the USR and the turbine pressure sensor. I found out the price of the high-pressure pump motor wiring harnesses, they sorted it out through the pressure valves, it didn't really splash before the bulkhead, now it splashes and it's very good. There are no complaints about the high-pressure pump, all the rules.

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There was dirt inside, in the distributor head, now it's okay. We checked the nozzles, they poured everything and did not hold it. We reanimated the sprayers and now the nozzles and the pressure keep the atmospheres, and do not pour, and pshikat. There are no complaints about them either. The return line, which inside, was broken, was dripping, now it is normal. Today I put the nozzles, a few days ago I put the injection pump. I combined all the marks, checked, adjusted the valves in the sense of clearances. In general, everything is perfect, there is nothing to complain about. All the chips, on the wires that fit the injection pump, are all rinsed with liquid for cleaning carburetors and dried.

Now I am writing how and what I did. He warmed up the degrees to Davanul on gas and at the exchange, when the speed was reached, the engine began to knock terribly, as if they were using a small sledgehammer on it.

He unscrewed the pressure reducing valve, it was removed and disassembled earlier. Flared it and slightly freed it. As a result, such a round thing there, with a hole in the middle, sank down, about a millimeter. I stomp on the gas, the knocking has ceased, but the turnover is no longer rising. Well, I think the ignition timing.

I remove the chip from the ignition timing sensor. I stomp on the pedal - it picks up speed and taps a little bit next to the speed. I washed the chips of this sensor again, dried them and connected them. Started up beautifully, without catching up, I never got it like that. I stomp on the pedal, it picks up speed very quickly, but starts to knock around the speed. I think to take a ride and check the automatic transmission before that they disassembled and changed the clutches. I'm leaving, all the rules.

Departure from the courtyard a little uphill. I start to drive out, trample on the gas pedal, and the engine starts to troit and does not gain momentum at all and tries to stall.

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