DIY td27 pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of td27 injection pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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sometimes I write a lot, but sincerely!

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テラノ TD27T, automatic
Details about the car here:

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sometimes I write a lot, but sincerely!

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There is a legend that the sound of a diesel engine at idle speed coincides in frequency with the purr of a cat. This sound not only calms a person, but also has healing properties.

Good day to all.
I'll raise the topic, I see no reason to create a new one.
the injection pump ran, the joint of the plate from where the fittings go to the injectors (in the photo are indicated by arrows) drips more as the speed rises. It starts amazingly, at all speeds the engine works without interruptions.
Question: if I contrive and remove the cover of the rear fuel pump and change the rubber ring (without removing the fuel pump from the engine), the whole inner tube will not get enough sleep in my hands?)))
after removing this cover, I will not knock down the vital settings of the fuel pump ??

I have already found that this is a plunger and that by removing the inlet I will get to it. then the question is by replacing the gum sealant will I get rid of the leak ??

I bought the car 3 months ago, I'm restoring it. I just left and after 100 km the salary ran))) I would have registered it before the registration, otherwise it was already very normally thrown into the car, but I haven’t registered it yet. the car stood 7 months without moving . picked up on a tow truck.

Good day to everyone. I really need advice because I'm already exhausted and I'm ready to just burn it.
mistral td27b
I gave the injection pump and injectors for repairs. (salar dripped from the junction of the plunger of the injection pump body) the injection pump and the forces after the stand are all right as in the manual, they gave a 5-month guarantee. We put a repair kit.

Video (click to play).

When I took off the injection pump marks, the zzz stood as it should be, the ignition position is the farthest from the block (maximum possible) and the car started up perfectly cold and hot.
After repair of fuel pump. you oil it with a starter for 3-4 seconds it starts up and for 3-4 seconds it rumbles. Without reacting to the gas it stalls.
the hoses are all new, the washers are new under the return flow, the washers are new under the sprayer. Ignition moved in any position the same result for 3 seconds and stalls. I changed the gasket under the cylinder head and personally rubbed the valve and checked it for leaks.
What I have tried:
valve removed the cover checked 2 out of 8 it was not critical clamped 0.10 climbed.
I thought maybe I was mistaken with the mark and cranked the crankshaft 2 more to 360, the result is the same. For some reason, I have when the zzz pulley is combined with the lower mark (left) for about 7 o'clock.
I found copper washers under the rim and replaced the aluminum ones.
I changed and tightened all the hoses, feed, return. The frog works, the pressure is pumped up 1 time.
Candles with a button and a separate relay. Candles new. Akb new 2 to 90.

Now I am writing and remembered that I did not connect the tube going to the top of the injection pump from the vacuum pump. but in the very first attempts, when the pump was put in the position in which it was removed, it was connected.

What else can you do? If you move the gear to the tooth, then forward or backward? Maybe I am setting the BMT incorrectly? In the position closest to the block, he made an attempt to rush a little longer for 5-6 seconds.
I googled, search yuzal. If there is a similar topic, transfer it to where you need it. just tell me what to do. he has been in my garage for 6 months.

I don’t know how on your car, but I (on TD42) have 2 valves on the injection pump - a cut-off (“blower”) and a valve that presses the return flow - thereby changing the pressure inside the injection pump and, accordingly, the injection advance angle. This is to make it easier to start the engine in cold weather.
So this valve works like this: after starting the car, if the coolant temperature is not negative, this valve turns off after a few seconds. The effect is exactly as you described. Normal start of the car and after a few seconds it just stalls. When I ran into this (accidentally confusing the wires - the valves are next to each other), for some time I could not understand what was the matter.

Again, it would make sense to move the gear back and forth if there was no start at all. And then it starts up!
To test the hypothesis, disconnect the wire from the cut-off valve, and feed the + valve from the battery. Start - and everything will become clear.

I think it's time to create
Engine FAQ: TD27, TD27T, QD32, QD32ETi.

In this topic, I propose to unsubscribe without unnecessary chatter
(so as not to turn the topic into a long and boring romance),
for original and non-original components for these ICE models.

QD32 / thermostat / 21200-05D00, 21200-05D02
TD27T / fuel filter
TD27 ETi / Oil Filter / Mann 928 Filter
TD27T / oil filter

spare parts for generator on QD32ETI
Generator regulator
05054 UTM
UNIPOINT YR722
VR-H2000-62

Diode bridge generator
HI11305A UTM
IHR771

automatic transmission cable 35520-35190 (automatic transmission catalog surf130)

useful links (taken from friendly forums):

stud size under KOM on manual transmission and KOM oil seal
bolts for connecting internal combustion engines and gearboxes

bell for QD32 / TD27 under the UAZ gearbox from A.Zediyarova

oil seal KOMa manual transmission SD33 NOK AE1351E according to the catalog moto honda () - a replacement for KMD152603
gland dimensions: 25 * 47 * 8

Only now I would also add the item “interchangeable spare parts”, for example - for example, I’m not satisfied with the 65A generator, which is put on the TD-27T, but there is 127A from another engine, and from which one I’m not I know, but I would like

Well, you yourself probably saw my question in the topic on the oil filter and the ideal oil.

Radiators
Radiator NISSAN TERRANO / PATHFINDER / REGULUS / ELGRAND 96-03 DIESEL price 2450 rubles.
found out by this radiator (aluminum), manufacturer Taiwan, price corresponds to reality
retail sale on site, no dispatch to the regions.

cardan shaft crosspieces Patrol 160/260
GUN29

Message Dima42 »23 Dec 2014, 22:11

Message Dima42 "24 Dec 2014, 20:53

Message Mazay 03 Mar 2015, 15:53

good afternoon everyone
urgently need help
150t.km have passed since the restoration of the injection pump
now again the car does not pull, smokes some blue-green color, drinks diesel fuel.

Help
send the pump back for repair? or buy a contract
if the contract then tell me the catalog number of the fuel pump, its (body p4f23-039971)
and in general, you need a high-quality contract, what to ask sellers so as not to take a pig in a poke
or can you suggest a reliable trusted supplier
thanks in advance!

Added after 7 minutes 27 seconds:
or still buy an original plunger pair for 9t.r and send it for repair? there is also a Chinese one for 5t.r.

Added after 1 minute 21 seconds:
or still buy an original plunger pair for 9t.r and send it for repair? there is also a Chinese one for 5t.r.

Added after 1 hour 32 minutes 9 seconds:
167006T014 right?

This post is a compilation of what you read on> to solve problems with the injection pump.

Probably almost all owners of TD27ETi and QD32ETi, that is, engines with electronic control of the injection pump, sooner or later face the Problem.
At first, these are just tremors at idle (XX), then it will start to start worse when hot, then floating rpm XX, then it will start very badly, you will have to turn it for a long time, the engine will stop holding XX, it will stall on the move. And one day you just won't start.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, the reason is the high-pressure fuel pump.

It is expensive and difficult to repeat what was described in the last article, and there is a high probability of error.
Fortunately, as a rule, such global achievements are not needed. All you need to do is:

Clean the positionometer. Metal working is stuffed into it and the sensor is buggy. And there is nothing special to break down there.
Rinse the mesh at the injection pump inlet.

Part 1. General education.

This is our injection pump.
It is on the right side of the engine in the direction of travel. Deep down below. Under the power steering pump.
1 Is a positionometer.
If the injection pump is BOSCH, then here are its numbers:
9461625783 bosch positioner NISSAN TD27ETi / QD32ETi old number (9461620450)

Chinese costs about 5.000r, it is better not to take it. Normal - 12,000r.
2 - the place of docking with the cylinder block. The pulley is visible.
3 - plunger pair. It is poorly visible in this photo.

Another picture.
1–2 - the same, the positioner and the place of docking with the cylinder block.
3 - plunger pair, fuel fittings are visible.

Here is the new positioner (left) and plunger pair (right) removed:

But you don't need to shoot anything. 🙂 Pictures are here for general understanding.

Part 2. Easy option.

I already wrote that in the light version it is enough just to clean the positioner from the metal working and the mesh (if any) at the injection pump inlet. The main thing here is to get to the pump 🙂
a) The cover of the positioner is removed, held by the hex bolts
b) The positioner is thoroughly purged with a compressor. Together with the solarium, it washes out all the debris.

PS. After removing the cover from the positioner, it will look like the picture 3.2 below.
PPP. Just in case. People do not take off the positioner with joy, because then it threatens to adjust the XX by rotating this positioner.

A good option will require more strength. But the result is a truly clean positioner.

Do not forget somehow mark the position of the positioner relative to the injection pump housing, so that later it can be correctly set and not to suffer with the adjustment.

3.1 The eccentric has a spherical shape. There are almost no signs of wear, the shape is perfect.
View of the lower part of the positioner:

3.2 To remove the board, you need to disconnect 5 wires from the connector and 2 wires from the coil. The first is easiest to saw with a hacksaw at the welding point to the board contacts, the second is drilled with a 1-1.5mm drill
There is a position sensor on the board.
Top view (cover removed):

3.3 Unscrew the screws and remove the board.
View from above:

3.4 Remove the springs, unscrew the struts and remove the coil:

3.5 The shaft is probably not separable, in any case I did not check it 🙂
Top view of the positioner without giblets:

3.6 We thoroughly clean all the parts and begin to assemble everything in the reverse order.
Positioner board, bottom view:

3.7 Before installing the board, you need to clean and tin the contacts on it with a soldering iron, install the board in place, fasten it with screws, solder the conductors. We fasten the lid.
View from above:

Tags: DIY diesel engine fuel equipment repair

DIY repair and maintenance · Tips for beginners, etc. 3 What is the repair of diesel engine fuel equipment? ... In the photo - repair of fuel equipment of gasoline engines, / p>

The first signs of a malfunction of the diesel fuel system

Serviceable and well-adjusted fuel equipment ensures the supply of finely atomized fuel in equal portions and at a certain time to the combustion chambers of all cylinders. Fuel must be supplied in such an amount that is necessary to obtain the required engine power at a given crankshaft speed. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to excessive consumption of fuel, a decrease in the power and service life of the diesel engine.

When operating a diesel engine, malfunctions may occur in the power system, the main symptoms of which are:

1. Increased fuel consumption.
2. Unstable engine idling.
3. The engine does not pick up speed.
4. It is difficult to start the engine in cold weather.
5. The car started to smoke (black, blue, white-gray smoke from the exhaust pipe).
6. Loss of engine power.
7. When the engine is under load, a characteristic sound (crackling sound) is heard.

Malfunctions in the power supply system arise due to failures and damage to devices and fuel lines in the high and low pressure lines. The main malfunctions in the low pressure line include leaks or clogging of fuel lines and filters, as well as malfunctioning of the low pressure pump, which leads to insufficient fuel supply to the high pressure pump.
Malfunctions in the high pressure line are reduced to malfunctions of the high pressure pump and injectors. They most often cause difficult starting of the engine, interruptions and uneven operation of the cylinders, loss of engine power, increased smoke of the exhaust gases, and refusals to regulate the crankshaft speed.

Violation of the tightness of the low pressure line occurs, as a rule, due to leaks in the connections.If such leaks appear in the line between the fuel tank and the low-pressure pump, then the fuel supply decreases sharply, the engine runs unstably at a low crankshaft speed and stops when the load increases.

When assembling the lines, complete tightness is achieved, especially at the connections to the fuel tank, coarse filter and low pressure pump.
Clogged fuel lines and filters in the low pressure line. The degree of clogging is judged by the decrease in fuel pressure in the line at the inlet to the high-pressure pump. Determine the value of the pressure on the control pressure gauge, which is connected to the hole for the plug to release air on the fine filter. If the pressure is below the permissible limit with tight connections, then replace the filter elements and check the operation of the low pressure booster pump.

Low pressure pump malfunctions cause a drop in pump performance and affect engine starting and operation. First of all, it becomes difficult to start the engine, since at a low crankshaft speed, the pump will supply less fuel even at a lower pressure. In the event of an increase in the load and at a low fuel supply by the pump, interruptions in the operation of the engine are observed and it will not be able to perceive the load.

The main causes of malfunctions and irregularities in the operation of low-pressure pumps are: debris and dirt under the valves, breakage or loss of spring elasticity, piston hanging, wear of the pusher rod. With increased wear of the main working surfaces of the pump (piston and cylinder), its performance decreases and the pressure in the line drops. A decrease in performance can also occur when the elasticity of the working spring decreases.
Malfunctions of the high-pressure pump and injectors during operation can be detected only partially, most of them are determined only when checked using special equipment. Below are the main symptoms and nature of high pressure pumps and nozzles.

Difficulty starting the engine occurs due to wear of plungers, liners and pump discharge sections, breakage of plunger springs, discharge valves, drop in injection pressure by injectors as a result of loss of spring rod spring elasticity, development of nozzle openings of nozzles and violation of optimal pump adjustment.

Increased opacity of the exhaust gases is observed with excessive fuel supply by the high-pressure pump sections, violation of the injection advance angle, a decrease in the opening pressure of the injectors, a jammed needle and an increase in the injector nozzle holes. With these faults, the exhaust gases are black.

9 Feb 2015. Do-it-yourself fuel pump repair (high pressure fuel pump) may be required for any diesel engine after.

There is no more complex and critical unit in a diesel engine than the fuel injection system, more precisely, its main part - the high pressure fuel pump. Many mating parts, high-loaded units, the presence of a precision dosing system, make the repair of the injection pump a difficult task even in service conditions. It is all the more difficult to repair the high pressure fuel pump of a diesel engine with your own hands.

In automotive technology, almost everything is repaired, except, perhaps, individual oil seals and cuffs, the repair of which is impossible without special materials. The complexity of setting, diagnosing and repairing the injection pump requires the employee to have skills in working with precision mechanics.

It is simply impossible to adjust according to the factory parameters, without a special diagnostic stand for the repair of the injection pump. During the diagnostic study of the injection pump, it is necessary to check:

cyclic supply of the high-pressure pump, in the entire range of revolutions of the injection pump shaft, at start-up, and after cutting off the fuel supply;
stability of the developed pressure;
uniformity of the injection pump delivery to the fuel injector.

Even having access to a diagnostic stand, and having studied the issue of repairing a high-pressure fuel pump using numerous videos, it is very difficult to qualitatively check and evaluate its work.

In heavy diesel engines, plunger, in-line injection pumps are used. In maintenance and repair, such devices are more difficult, since they require special equipment for its disassembly, therefore we will not consider such high pressure fuel pumps and their repair.

In a passenger diesel engine, a distribution type injection pump is almost always used. Unlike in-line pumps, in a distribution pump, the force is transmitted to the plunger using a profiled cam washer. The design of the injection pump turned out to be more compact, but it is hardly simpler to expect to carry out its repair on the knee.

The most famous and affordable is the Bosh VP44 injection pump. Often, the need to repair the pump internals arises when:

poor traction and incomplete combustion of fuel even under ideal conditions - in the absence of load and a thoroughly warmed up engine;
a sudden failure and stoppage of a diesel engine under load, which is called “death on takeoff”. Usually the scanner in such cases diagnoses the code P1630 and P1651.
the appearance of a diesel fuel leak in the area of the gland seal of the central shaft of the injection pump.

Therefore, we will restrict ourselves to the issue of repairing the injection pump with our own hands by replacing the seals and eliminating the scoring of the working surfaces of the parts.

Before disassembling the pump drive shaft seal, try to move it radially. If play is felt with your hands, it is possible that the reason for the leakage of fuel is the wear of the working surface of the shaft or requires repair of the bearing.

A large number of split planes and mating surfaces of parts required the use of a large number of seals and glands. As a rule, they are made of quality material and last long enough until they are damaged during repair or maintenance. In this case, standard repair kits are used for DIY repair of Bosch injection pumps.

It is quite easy to replace the seal on the shaft position sensor and on the automatic injection timing during repairs. For a better fit, you can drip a few drops of spindle or engine oil onto new rings and rubber bands.

For preventive repair of a Bosch injection pump with your own hands, you will need to disassemble the pump in approximately the following order:

remove the metering valve from the end of the injection pump. To do this, unscrew the four screws of the pressure plate, carefully release the cable of the injection advance valve. By removing the three screws securing the metering valve, you can carefully remove it from the seat;

by unscrewing the fastener on the top cover, you can remove the control board and gain access to the electronics;
we set the position of the shaft, as shown in the photo, remove the camera and get access to the insides of the injection pump;

after dismantling the bearing using a special puller, we get the opportunity to study the potential culprit for the poor performance of the injection pump - the piston of the injection advance unit. There is often surface wear and edge scuffing on the part. You can try to make repairs by polishing the surface, replacing the whole part is much more expensive.

After the repair, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order with the washing of the parts with diesel fuel.

Often, in addition to scoring, on the surface of the pistons there is another reason why the injection pump does not develop the required pressure. This can be due to debris, films or wax build-up on the filter screen inside the pump. There is a mesh on the side of the inlet pipe. Rinsing the channels is a troublesome and ineffective business, it is easier to remove the mesh and blow it with compressed air.

Torn pieces of debris can jam the plunger piston or even break or break the pump drive shaft. Therefore, cleaning should be done very carefully to avoid contamination of the internal cavities of the pump.

Among the many reasons for the failure of the electronic "liver" of the injection pump, the most common is the breakage or burnout of the contacts of the control board and the failure of power transistors.If the knowledge and skills of working with electronic devices allow to carry out a "continuity" of the transistor performance and repair, it is worth trying to identify the cause and replace the culprit with a serviceable element.

To check the condition of the "culprit", you need to carefully open the black cover, which is tightly seated on the rubber seal with screws. It should be removed carefully so as not to damage the seal itself.

The reason for the failure of not only the transistor, but also the entire board could be air trapped in the cavity due to poor performance of the drainage system or the check valve. Often, they try to eliminate the airing by spinning up with a starter, hoping to pump diesel fuel into the high-pressure fuel pump in this way. At this moment, the transistor is open and loaded as much as possible, which leads to intense heating. In an air environment with poor heat dissipation, it will inevitably burn out. In some German cars there is a protection that prevents an attempt to start the engine in the absence of fuel in the highway. For this, a fuel sensor in the tank is used.

Failure of the transistor can be established by "dialing" a tester or by its appearance. The best option for repairing such a malfunction would be to replace the entire control board. Perhaps it is more expensive than soldering, but it will give guaranteed quality and stable operation of the injection pump after repair. As a last resort, give the board and the transistor for soldering to electronics specialists.

When installing and reassembling after repairs, check the tightness of all fasteners.

If during the audit you did not make rash and unreasonable replacements of parts, the assembled pump should work with approximately the same parameters as before. Bosch EPS-815 stand is used as a standard for testing and adjusting injection pump after overhaul.

The video shows how to raise the plunger pressure in a Bosch VE injection pump:

Attention, the editors of the site "Your Road" recommend that you consult with a specialist before applying this instruction to action. One of the most mysterious parts of a car with a diesel engine is a high-pressure fuel pump (TNVD). There are 2 types of pumps - a mechanical pump and an electronically controlled pump, popularly EFI-shny. Each of the types is divided into 2 subspecies: Multi-plunger in-line, single-plunger distribution type (VE). We will not consider the "exotic" type of pump-injector, Common Rail or VR series distribution pumps (Distribution pump with axial plunger, Distribution rotary injection pump)Since the device, and therefore the principle of its operation, is a mystery for many, there is an opinion that specialized equipment and a specially trained person are needed to repair it. However, such a "gentleman's" set is not always at hand, so let's try to disassemble and assemble this tricky knot "on the knee". The object for preparation will be a high-pressure fuel pump, assembled in ancient times from several different-sized pumps, without using stands, but at the same time successfully spinning a 4D56 diesel engine WITHOUT TURBINE up to 8000 rpm. Externally, it can differ from the high-pressure fuel pump installed on your car only in the absence of a pressure corrector (a kind of mushroom-hat on the top cover) and some attachments. This does not change the essence of the matter.So, on the table- OH .. Top viewColored arrows indicate:

Green - fuel supply bolt

Yellow - "return"

Black - pressure valve in the injection pump housing

Red - the axis of the fuel supply regulator ("gas" drive). The "gas" lever itself has been dismantled for convenience.

Brown - mixture "quality" bolt.

Arrows indicate:

Black - automatic heating

Green - drive of the automatic heating device

Red - automatic ignition timing (injection)

Blue - identification plate

Side view (back side):

Blue - speed sensor (tachometer, not always present)
Red - fuel cut-off valve (muffler)
Yellow - pressure valve.
Green is the plunger itself.
Black - the axis of the fuel lever. The same is available on the back of the pump.It is better to remove (but not completely unscrew) them at the initial stage of disassembly.

For work you will need: a set of heads, a set of hexagons, tweezers, screwdrivers, a gas wrench, a caliper, a vice, a clean rag, a container with clean diesel fuel, a grease (Litol, CV joint, etc.) -))

A mesh filter is installed inside, which, as a rule, cannot be washed. Removal has no “contraindications” (yellow arrow).
Has a calibrated hole on the side surface (red arrow). Different pumps have different sizes, so replacing them with another leads to a change in the internal pressure in the pump.

I think no comments are needed. Council - the drive itself should not be disassembled.

Yellow - speed sensor
Green - "jammer".
Black - centrifugal speed controller.
Blue - fuel drive lever.

Here one difficulty is to get to one of the 3 bolts. There are only two options:

Disassemble the drive (carefully, there is a powerful spring! + REMEMBER the setting of the adjusting bolt), and then calmly unscrew the rest.

Unscrew 2 "light" bolts under the key "by 10", loosen the third, "heavy" one, and pushing the assembly aside, slowly unscrew it.

It should look like this:

Yellow - O-ring
Red- adjusting bolt of the automatic advance switch
Green - the cover of the advancing machine.
Remember (write down) the bolt head protrusion (red arrow) above the cover (green arrow). If in the process you decide to unscrew this bolt, during assembly it will be necessary to return the dimensions to their original state.
Blue - the axis of the speed regulator.
Black - mating plane.

Attention! For pumps with RIGHT rotation, the thread on the shaft will be LEFT and vice versa!

If you can find a tool, unscrew the pressure regulator.

Now the fun begins. Parsing includes nodes consisting of several parts. Moreover, the details cannot "live" without each other. That is, they simply cannot be confused with each other.

Red - pressure valve body
Green - spring returnable
Blue - valve needle
Yellow - valve seat
Black - sealing washer.

The plug under the red arrow does not need to be unscrewed; it serves to install the indicator. The fact is that the ignition on diesels is placed not so much on the marks. Rather, initially, the moment of injection is set according to the indicator, and only then the mark that we see is applied. We will omit this procedure for now, the turn will come to it.

So, turn off the cap (blue arrow). This is where the gas wrench comes in handy. The thread of the plug is right-hand.

Blue - plunger body
Red - plunger.

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the amount by which the plunger sinks into the body. We measure the results, write them down, they will come in handy during assembly.

We release the fastening screws (but not completely), and gently shaking, we move the plunger body up. As soon as it is free, we finally unscrew the screws and remove the plunger body. You should get the following picture:

Blue - plunger
Yellow - dosing ring
Red - washer - bearing
Brown - base plate
Black - spring
Green - adjusting washers.

Black - Plunger Shim
Red - cam washer.
Green - fuel delivery lever. I managed to take it off earlier.

Attention!! We do not remove the videos, we do not change them in places.

Remove the stopper (shown with a screwdriver).

We see a pin under the stopper. Shown also with a screwdriver (it is magnetized, the pin can be easily removed by it).

Remove the cam washer drive.

In the interior of the vacated space, push the axis of the advancing automaton:

For convenience, I deleted 1 video, there is nothing criminal here. Pull the roller ring outward for the axis of the advancing automaton. Caution, do not use unnecessary effort! At the slightest misalignment, the ring wedges in the body. Attempts to pull it out "insolently" will end in disrepair - the pump casing will be scrapped.

It should look something like this:

For the 2 "horns" sticking out in the depths of the pump, we take out the pump shaft with the gear of the regulator:

We return to the "remains" of the pump:

We release the bolts (blue arrows) and take out the booster pump cover (red arrow).

We turn over the pump housing.

We remove the oil seal (shown with a screwdriver). Warning - don't try to save it, it won't work anyway.

As a result, a bare body with a bushing pressed into it should remain. Like this:

Diagnostics and repair of cars »DIESEL cars» How the drain valve TNVD td27t 94g should work.

Location: Khabarovsk Territory
Total Posts: 132
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Society of Auto Diagnostics

Suslin Oleg Vladimirovich

Location: Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
Total Posts: 1254
Link

Location: Khabarovsk Territory
Total Posts: 132
Link

Privet1 injection pump completely moved away from the block? That is, is the maximum possible early injection worth it? If so, then it remains to unscrew the pressure reducing valve on the high-pressure pump (next to the fuel inlet) under a special key, but you can also use a 10-point open-end valve) and check if the plunger is jammed in it. To do this, it is enough to shake the valve and the plunger will dangle - you can hear how. Or push a needle on him to make sure he moves.

So, if the injection pump is at its maximum for early injection, the pressure reducing valve is not jammed, and the engine does not work correctly (it is slowly gaining momentum, shaking, blue smoke) at least in some speed range, the injection pump needs to be repaired. Or change. A new injection pump costs about 2,200, its repair - up to 1,800 (after all, new parts are inserted there, if you do it according to your mind), used contract - from 500.

Further. With late injection, the engine does not stall. And if it stalls, then there is an air leak. Actually, ordinary leaks can be easily excluded: a bottle with diesel fuel on top of the engine, there the feed tube and the return tube and leave everything overnight, and in the morning look and maybe even take a ride. But it was possible to suck through the fuel pump oil seal. And then the picture will be as you described it. The engine starts, runs, shakes and stalls. You can start it again and everything is repeated. Until the oil seal heats up and starts to work somehow. By the way, in this situation, dark fuel usually comes from the return line: it is colored with soot from the engine oil, that is, you can check the color of the supplied diesel fuel from the return line. The way out is to remove the injection pump, disassemble everything, change the bearing (it should not be made of brass, only from beryllium bronze, otherwise, it has already been checked, it will be wound on the shaft) and an oil seal.

That's all. I got hooked up at work and no, now there are no clients, so I'm exiled. Good luck!

Society of Auto Diagnostics

Suslin Oleg Vladimirovich

Location: Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
Total Posts: 1254
Link

Location: Khabarovsk Territory
Total Posts: 132
Link

Hello to all! I put the high pressure fuel pump on the earliest injection. I checked the reduction valve, everything is OK with it. Vryatli my injection pump is completely spoiled, because it works very well on a hot engine - it does not smoke, it works smoothly, smoothly, the power is excellent.

Most likely, there is really a leakage of air through the injection pump seal, because today I tried to feed the injection pump straight from the bottle again - I started the engine, it worked for about 15 minutes and all this time, air (like a geyser) came out of the return line, especially if it squeezed it for a few seconds the fuel supply hose and fuel are really dark in color. When I was taking apart the injection pump for the first time, I noticed that the whole body was covered with soot inside, I still thought where could it come from?

Now I have a number of questions:
1) why did this oil seal wear out so quickly? because the mileage is about 100 thousand. auction, maybe the speedometer is twisted but at least the engine and the car look very vigorous.
2) If the oil seal is worn out and there is a working out on the shaft at the point of contact with the lip of the oil seal, are the bronze bearings in the high pressure pump housing really worn out in this case?
When I disassembled the injection pump, I did not find any noticeable wear on these bearings.

3) If everything is in order with the bearings, take a new oil seal, put it on, its edge will fall into the place of shaft wear, it will hardly hold it well.You can grind the shaft in the place of wear under the oil seal, but this will make the seal fit even more freely.
If you try to grind the upper side of the stuffing box and install the stuffing box deeper into the body so that its edge works in a new place, will the repair be effective in this case?
4) I have the opportunity to buy a high-pressure fuel pump from a 4D 56T engine with a faulty plunger pair, made by ZEXEL (the same as mine). Will this pump supply mine with some kind of "expense", for example: a shaft, a cam washer, rollers, etc.?

Society of Auto Diagnostics

Suslin Oleg Vladimirovich

Location: Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
Total Posts: 1254
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Hello to all. After consulting with a friend, we can state the following. The mesh in the “OUT” bolt is needed for dirt: so that the throttling hole in the bolt does not get clogged (the metal lug will fly off the giblets and block the hole). Otherwise, the pressure inside the injection pump will increase and problems are possible. If the pressure in the injection pump is provided by a spring with a ball, then there is no small throttling hole and the mesh is not needed. IHMO, naturally.

The wear of the oil seal has little to do with mileage in Russia. It is more connected with the amount of alcohols in the fuel (that is, with the quality of the fuel), dry fuel (again, with the quality of the fuel), the quality of the engine oil (even branded, our fuel quickly "runs out" bunker with fuel, and then they order oil for it) and a belt tightening. In the latter case, the bushing (bearing) wears out first, which can be seen by the dangling of the output shaft (with the belt removed), but the oil seal cannot work without a good bearing.

We have never noticed a special development on the injection pump shaft from the lip of the oil seal, at least there were no problems with this. They installed a new oil seal and that's it.

Installing parts from another injection pump of the same type (from the same engine) inside your injection pump makes it necessary to completely adjust the entire injection pump (selection of washers). If a “donor” from another engine is used, then, most likely, some of the parts, the same cam disc, will not work at all. It will have a different profile for a different control program. Again IMMO.

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Suslin Oleg Vladimirovich

Location: Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
Total Posts: 1254
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Location: Khabarovsk Territory
Total Posts: 132
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Hello to all ! Thanks for the answers, apparently everything is so.

Now I will look for a new oil seal, remove the injection pump, check the shaft backlash - if not significant, then I will change the oil seal. The development on the injection pump shaft from the lip of the oil seal, in my opinion, is very significant. When replacing the oil seal (from sin onward), I think it will still be better if you slightly sharpen the upper side part of the oil seal and install it deeper into the body, so that the edge works in a new place.
After repair, I will definitely write about the result.

Location: Khabarovsk Territory
Total Posts: 132
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Hello to all!
The other day they brought me a new oil seal. He took off the injection pump, pulled out the old oil seal with a screwdriver from the body, checked the shaft play (in my opinion, it is in the tolerance), installed a new oil seal. When installing a new oil seal, I did not undermine its upper side part (as I had planned before), but simply "reined in" it a little (1.5 millimeters) deeper into the body, there is enough space there. Installed the injection pump.

And that's it! The malfunction has disappeared. I absolutely love it. The engine began to warm up as it should be, it does not stall. Everything is back to normal!
Apparently, the air leakage actually took place through the oil seal, and the forced switching on of the drain valve only masked the malfunction, since when it was turned on from the return line, the fuel does not enter the supply, therefore, the air that was in the return line did not enter either.

Along the way, I started and completely warmed up the engine, the engine worked pretty well, but with a sharp set of revolutions, there was a characteristic shaking of the engine, indicating late injection at increased speeds, so I decided to slightly adjust the pressure pump pressure relief valve in order to slightly raise the pressure in the body thereby increasing the angle injection.
I adjusted it as follows: through a spacer, slightly sagging the valve control plug with a hammer, I started checking how the engine works, if not enough, I added it and achieved such a result that the engine would quickly pick up speed without flinching in any range revolutions. The main thing is not to overdo it, so that the injection becomes too early and the engine starts to work too hard. As a last resort, you can remove the valve, disassemble it and put everything back in place.

In conclusion, I would like to express my deep gratitude to everyone who participated in this forum, especially to you Sergey Vladimirovich. Thank you. You have given competent, comprehensive answers.

Seichas I am experiencing a great sense of satisfaction that all the same I was able (albeit with your help) to deal with the malfunction of my car, which gives me confidence.

Location: Amur DV
Total Posts: 165
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Message posted: March 28, 2007 11:27 pm

of course you can say a belated answer, BUT the topic is quite relevant.

with similar symptoms, but without air in the return line, in the injection pump there is a booster pump with 4 pouches that creates the actual pumping of fuel and pressure in the body, immediately before each injection of the plunger, thereby ensuring its filling when it is in the lower position.
so in this pump, working petals can sink and, accordingly, at the time of filling the plunger before injection or feeding a portion to the nozzle, there is insufficient pressure, it is very simple to check: remove the return hose, you can in front of the tank, and check the circulation of the jet from the return pipe, if there is no uniform cyclic ejection of fuel, then, accordingly, some kind of lipstick could fall into the rotor, and with an increase in engine speed due to the cyntrifugal force, the petal wedges and is brought into an operable state, the reasons are actually the same - not very high-quality fuel
.
when the pump is worn, the internal pressure naturally decreases, which can be raised approximately as described

but even so, the best option is to check what it is with a pressure gauge, and then draw conclusions. single-plunger injection pump reasons need to be considered all at once, this is not an in-line injection pump, although it also has its own shortcomings.

and even with such symptoms, but without air and a normal pump and the rest, the nozzle sprays have simply outlived their time (they do not spray, but pour, do not hold and cry), they simply need to be replaced (sprays), naturally, first of all, make sure that they have checked it at the stand.

Video (click to play).

Thanks to all those who write sufficiently intelligible and detailed answers to questions.
good luck to all!

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