DIY repair of fuel injection pump toyota nadia

In detail: DIY repair of fuel injection pump toyota nadia from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Alexander - 2004-12-09 11:15:59

A story about how they were looking for a common language with a Japanese car.

It all started when one summer in June 2004, I bought a 1999 Toyota Nadia, 44,000 km.

The purchase happened almost spontaneously, although the Internet and forums and friends were at hand and everything. but I bought it with a 3S-FSE D4 engine, for those who do not know I will explain - this is a gasoline engine with direct fuel injection. Its main problem is its increased capriciousness to our fuel due to which a very important unit - the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPP) - fails.

When I found out what I bought - I felt bad - imagine my condition - to give back the Green money and get such (as it seemed to me then) hemorrhoids. But there is nothing to do, it was not in my rules to immediately start selling it, I decided to FIND A COMMON LANGUAGE WITH THIS JAPANESE CAR.

In the summer, the car showed itself great, the family just squeaked from the ride in our new car. Air conditioning, automatic transmission, excellent sound insulation, everything was suitable for long trips, trips to the country and to the countryside.

The first thing that was done (44 800 km), the Castrol GTX 5w40 oil was changed 1200 rubles) and the filter (500 rubles). And I started looking for a high-pressure fuel pump because it seemed to me that it was about to break. The search did not last very long, the range of prices turned out to be very decent, from $ 790 to $ 280 for $ 280, I bought it - a normal original Toyota injection pump.

In August, the first troubles appeared (45,600 km) - the car began to eat a lot of gasoline on a heated one, it drove with failures, a little troilus, but not always, this was especially often manifested in hot weather. I went to the diagnostics to my guys. They have service for foreign cars. They “scolded” me for buying a car with such an engine, but they didn’t refuse to do it… they made a diagnosis and it turned out that the Oxygen sensor was dying. They sentenced him to be replaced, but said that this may not be accurate information, because their equipment is not designed to scan just such an engine. Then I decided to go to the TOYOTA Official Service. Service is great but expensive. There I was unconditionally sentenced to the Oxygen sensor. (900 rubles for diagnostics).

Video (click to play).

I ordered it through them. The purchase of the Oxygen sensor cost 6,780 rubles. + to replace it, it was necessary to re-diagnose (900 rubles) and carry out its adaptation (1200 rubles). I thought, I thought, and went back to OWN. There they quickly put him on, adapted and sent him home with Mir.

At the end of summer, I changed the oil again (47 300 km) (Castrol GTX 5w40 1200 rubles) and the filter (500 rubles). I rode without any problems until October, I noticed that only with the onset of cold weather the car's appetite grew (14-15 liters in the city), but I sinned on my driving style and did not blame Nadyukha for anything.

But then frost came. My Nadyukha began to be capricious. (51,000 km.) B -0, started the first time, but it took a long time to turn the starter. B -5, from the third. At -10, from 5-7. at -12 did not start at all. By that time, the order already had candles, fuel, air and oil filters, and there was a high-pressure fuel pump, for which I, foolishly, most of all sinned and was determined to change it.

I waited when all this came, called a tow truck and went to the service. By that time, I had accumulated a lot of articles and just reviews about the car, I conveyed all this to the guys. Especially helped them in their work Essay on D-4 By Eugenio77 ("). THANK YOU VERY MUCH. Changed plugs, fuel and air filters, removed and cleaned (EGR) Exhaust Gas Recirculation System, cleaned the cold start nozzle, checked the pressure on it, it was 3.2 kg.

The effect of work was not given. then I quote the correspondence with Eugenio77 in the Forum on the website

We read the answers and the guys got to work:
Cold start nozzle - clean, inlet pressure 3.2 kg.
(EGR) Exhaust Gas Recirculation - Clean, EGR valve alive and well.
Throttle body - clean

We connected a cold scanner and took the data:
The unit saw the temperature correctly (it was 0 degrees outside)
The operating time of the cold start nozzle is 13.2 ms.
Throttle opening degree - 17 degrees

We start:
Vacuum (MAR) no claims
The operating time of the cold start nozzle when trying to start for the first time was reduced - 4.2 msec.
Throttle opening degree - 7 degrees
... then when it started up ... but it worked very unstable. the system tried to correct the operation by increasing the opening angle of the throttle valve and the operating time of the injectors ... ... but the car stalled anyway. It turned out that there was not enough fuel [TC - actually air]? Where did it go?

We decided to remove the intake manifold, what was found there defies description in words. everything was in very dense soot, and she did not want to clean it off at all, she had to use a special washing liquid, a wooden stick and the help of a kuzken mother to scrape this crap off the walls of the manifold to a metallic sheen. Because of this soot, the operation of the intake manifold flaps [TC - there was a chance to see this in DataStream, by the SCV position sensor] was disrupted (not fully closed). The work turned out to be hellish, for its implementation special thanks to the Master diagnostician Vitaly. At the same time, we changed the high-pressure fuel pump so that it wouldn’t be lying around.

Cleaned up. all gathered. kicked out into the street. in the morning started up from the second second of scrolling by the starter! the temperature overboard was -1-2. Fuel consumption in the city has decreased, now it is 9-10 liters. (I drive as before)
The guys in the service said that the car became clearer and that the most important thing is that we found a COMMON LANGUAGE WITH THIS JAPANESE CAR, Nadyukha can live in Russia, but she needs careful care.

Sponsored links. Shown only to unregistered users

1. Ability to eliminate the leakage of the pump oil seal on the road (and not only) in 10 minutes. and guaranteed tightness of several thousand km. (we drove, we know)))
2. The second point is more useful to repairmen:
Checking the “native” high-pressure fuel pump seal for leaks is a 100% accurate method.
I'll make a reservation, my design turned out to be reliable, in some respects better than that of the original pump.
There is nothing new in my design, but, as they say, God is in the details.
I will try to make the report clear and detailed, with a description of the recovery from A to Z.
The entire alteration will take you a maximum of 2 evenings and 500-700r. not counting beer), I fit in 1.5 hours.
So let's go!

In a store that sells consumables for auto painters we buy;
-Any cheap glue for gluing car windows (hereinafter I will call it sealant) (250r)
-Sheet of waterproof sandpaper R-500 (15r)
-Sheet of microabrasive ZM No. 2000 (20r)
-Farekla G-3 abrasive paste. 50 gr. (40r)
-Solvent 650 0.5l (50r)

In an auto parts store, we buy a set of oil caps for the "classic". I took "Reserve" (80r)
We pass to point 18, we carry the sketch to the turner.
For two cases of the oil seal, I gave 150r.

2. Pressing the glass on the corner of a wooden block, gently bend the antennae (0.5-1 mm, no more) and slowly relax the spring.

3. Take out the plunger, spring, split washer.

4. Press out the standard oil seal through the hole in the injection pump housing.
This is easily done with a straight screwdriver, sliding it over the gland and hitting it with a hammer.

5. We take the oil cap from the “classic” (I took the “Reserve”, don't run into a fake) by hand, but put it tightly on the valve guide from the same “classic”, and remove the protruding metal collar with emery

6. You need an adjusting aluminum plate with 08-15 model Lada (mounted on the body under the pad of the lock) thickness somewhere around 1-1.5 mm. I did not measure it, but in my opinion they have the same thickness.

7. We are interested in the LATERAL holes of the plate - we cut it off with scissors and drive it on emery to the outer diameter of the “Zhiguli” gland

eight.We end up with just such a washer, put it aside.

10. Modifying the plunger. The photo clearly shows the development on the working surface, in the places of contact with the oil seal. From her
need to get rid of.

11. Wrap half of the plunger with transparent tape (5-6 layers)

12.we clamp this part into a drill (without fanaticism, do not damage the plunger itself)

14. Apply P500 sandpaper to a hard rubber squeegee and moisten the entire uneven surface with water. No more, no less. The drill is naturally included, at about medium speed.
We get a matte uniform surface.

15. Further, without a squeegee, but with water, R-2000 sandpaper, we reduce the risk.

16. In conclusion, we take the Farekla G-3 polish, also, moistening with water with a soft flannel cloth, we make it shine (about 5-7 minutes)
In the process of lapping, the polish changes its color from beige to gray - the paste works.

17. We get such a “new plunger”, put it aside for now.

18. We sketch this sketch and carry it to the turner. I also took the oil seal, for clarity. We explain to the turner: the oil seal must be tight. Other sizes can be rounded to the nearest tenth.

19. Slightly set the upper part of the stuffing box body with light oblique hammer blows, creating a shoulder, just in case, to prevent the stuffing box from coming out of the body of the body. You can order it right away with a collar, but I didn't bother.

20. Degrease the surfaces of the gland and housing with a solvent and evenly coat the gland with sealant.

21. Using a metal rod of a suitable diameter, press the gland into the body until the metal part of the gland rests against our homemade collar

22. We coat the top of the gland with a sealant, put on a homemade washer instead of a spring, carefully remove the excess sealant.

23. The bottom of the oil seal, after pressing it in, can stick out a little on the other side

24. If you don't have such a thing)))
then remove somewhere 1-1.5mm of the gland height before pressing it into the gland body.

25. Having degreased the “penny” of the body and its seat in the high-pressure fuel pump, thinly but evenly spread the sealant

26. Put the oil seal in place, insert the oiled plunger. The plunger is needed for centering.

27. We put in place the spring, glass, and for a day we squeeze the pump into an impromptu clamp.

28. We take the key at 14 and unscrew the exit to the return line

29. We take out our own spring, put another one, suitable in diameter, but 2 times more powerful. The goal is to make sure that the fuel pressure valve never opens))

30. The twenty-ninth point is very important (the main trick). By shutting off the low fuel pressure valve, we REDUCE THE PRESSURE OF GASOLINE IN THE SUB-SPACE WITH 4 ATM. TO ZERO.
And now about 1 drop of gasoline per second will flow from the return line! It is she who will need to remove the oil seal!

The fuel pressure valve will be hummed like a simple 3s in the tank.

31. After a day, we remove the clamp, unclench it, check our structure for tightness

32 Wrapping the injection pump with electrical tape, or simply using a finger, we eliminate the technological hole through which we removed our own oil seal. We insert the plunger, pour gasoline into the resulting container.
We supply air to the return connection (I supplied carbon dioxide, which was at hand, oxygen, I think, is not needed),

33. Bring the pressure to 5 atm. and see if there are any "gurgles" in conjunction with the lip of the oil seal - the plunger
If you want to increase the test pressure, then you need to assemble the pump, since the pressure once tore off the stuffing box body from the pump.
But in my opinion, there is no need to check with such pressure, since we will not have any pressure in the sub-plunger space.

34. That's it, we put in place the spring, the split washer, the glass, as well as when disassembling, we squeeze the spring against the corner of the bar, tap the antennae with a hammer,

Personally, I do not understand two points;
- for what purpose did the Japanese engineers run the pressure into the sub-plunger space,
- the use of a double working edge entails increased stem wear, since there is no lubricant between the edges.
With us, on the one hand, the edge is lubricated with gasoline, on the other with oil.

I also need to put a low fuel pressure regulator in the tank, all my hands do not reach, but while I drive like this, I did not reveal anything criminal, all parameters are normal.
I tried to put my own spring in place, thereby restoring the pressure regulator to work. Gasoline does not go into oil, but it is somehow uncomfortable to live, knowing what is to oil, under a pressure of 4 atm. Gasoline "knocks")))))
More than 7 t.km have already passed on this pump, without a fuel pressure regulator, everything is OK.
Before publishing the report, I specially disassembled:
- stock ideally
- launched air 5 atm into the sub-plunger space. - everything is hermetically sealed!

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ZY I won't tell you about the question, I only know about 3S-FSE, you have to run away from it like the devil from incense

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ZY I won't tell you about the question, I only know about 3S-FSE, you have to run away from it like the devil from incense

Thanks for the link. Of course, the contract is a cat in a poke. It is necessary to check.

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Thank you, I think I'll do it)))

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The situation is as follows:
The car (3S-FSE) is stored in the garage for one and a half years. It is rarely used, mainly only in the summer (I live in another city, I am looking for it only upon arrival). Two years ago I faced such a problem: in very hot weather it stalled (rarely, but stalled), after a couple of months it began to stall when stopping at traffic lights, then did not keep idling at all. We cleaned the nozzles, the intake manifold, everything seemed to be normalized. Traveled, put it in the garage. In the summer of that year, after trying to start the engine, nothing happened. On a tow truck to the service station. Replaced candles, coils, valve cover gasket. Added a liter of oil. With the service station under its own power to the garage, everything is normal. Traveled for a week - set. In the winter, he would come and start, it would be tight, but would start. And in this summer season, I came - started, from 3 times I went. Departure for about a week, began to twitch at traffic lights. There was a smell of gasoline, I thought maybe after refueling like this. The next day I took out the dipstick, and there was 1.5 oil level. I went to the service station. We looked, no one understands what's what. On the dipstick, the same level is shown, but the liquid is lighter on top, darker to the bottom. It smells like gasoline, either from the dipstick or from the top of the oil. When driving, the revolutions sometimes float, after 70 km / h it starts to twitch.

I read it, all the signs point to a high-pressure fuel pump, but is this so? Is it worth trying to change the oil, and then look already? A car is necessary, but it is not the case to operate it either.

Can you please tell me how this problem is solved? Is it really about the high-pressure fuel pump (I would not want to pay such a sum for a new one, but the problem is not in it)?

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

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In the subject Lucida 1995 / TD-2.2 L. bad start on hot was about it. I don’t know why I wrote in the wrong place.

sergluc: I also thought so once, and local lomaster at diesel service stations assured that the matter was in the high-pressure fuel pump, they offered to buy a contract one. Bought. Set. But things have remained there even now. Then I checked my removed injection pump, and what - it presses 300 bar! But it turned out to be a bad compression. Capital motor. I put in an old injection pump. The flight starts.

A bottle of cold water and misled. You water it like a head with a plunger pair, cool it down, start up. It would seem that the plunger sat down. But no, brothers! That cold water also falls on the temperature sensor that is screwed into the block. The resistance of the sensor increases, which means that the computer thinks that the engine is cold and gives more injection volume to the injectors. So the engine starts up. Then I made a toggle switch with a 10 ohm connected resistance to this sensor. So I drove to the capital: click the toggle switch - started - click the toggle - went. Now, with this toggle switch, I raise the speed at XX in winter - however, it is warmer.
The toggle switch was brought under the driver's seat, next to the lever for opening the gas tank.

So in my case, the resistor helped. So I tend to the compression, and not to the injection pump. I haven't measured the compression yet. But you have to.

PS: Can you please tell me how to insert a picture into the text of a message? And then I can only invest, and they are all a bunch at the end.

High pressure fuel pump (Injection pump) of a diesel engine, a rather complex mechanism and, as a rule, is given for repair only to specialists. But to know injection pump device and how to disassemble it will be useful for both the owners of cars with a diesel engine and the fuel pump repairmen themselves. Since each type has its own characteristics. In this case, we consider the case of how the Toyota injection pump with a 2L-TE engine works and functions.

About the injection pump on the video, the following main points will be considered:

High pressure fuel pump device;
Diesel engine injection pump functionality;
Step by step disassembly of the Toyota fuel pump.

The most basic element of the pump is a plunger pair mounted on the body of the denso injection pump. What other elements the fuel pump consists of, see the video. The basic structure of the injection pump is similar to all diesel engines.

Dismantling the high pressure fuel pump should start by unscrewing the fittings. During the disassembly process, the wizard will tell you in detail about the functions of a particular pump part.

In order not to miss anything, but to find out how it works and the principle of operation Injection pump, video look to the end.

Location: Volgodonsk
Total Posts: 27
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Dear Diagnostics! help pliz. can any of you have dealt with this kind of hemorrhoids ..

Location: Volgodonsk
Total Posts: 27
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You are focusing your attention in the wrong place! Well, this is the algorithm for the injection system.

The packs go only at the very beginning, and the starting nozzle works after starting for a few more seconds. D4 starts at low pressure.
Check low pressure pressure, you never said a word about that. And in general it is not clear whether the engine is flooding or running out of fuel, that's where you focus your attention. What's with the spark, synchro, timing marks?

Location: Volgodonsk
Total Posts: 27
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Oleg Igorovich wrote
============================================================================================================
You are focusing your attention in the wrong place! Well, this is the algorithm for the injection system.
———————————————————————-
FackD4 wrote: If this is the start mode, why then the starting nozzle.
———————————————————————-
The packs go only at the very beginning, and the starting nozzle works after starting for a few more seconds. D4 starts at low pressure.
Check low pressure, pressure, you never said a word about that. And in general it is not clear whether the engine is flooding or running out of fuel, that's where you focus your attention. What about the spark, synchro, timing marks?
—————————————————–
FackD4 wrote: perhaps that is why the pressure cannot be gained.
————————————————————–
3.5-4 bars from the pump in the tank should be at the time of scrolling, this is enough to start.

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To do this, you need to find a dealer left-handed Avensis 250 (2003 - .. onwards) they have the same D-4 ..
It's just (not a supporter himself), about for the injection pump .. I read it on the diesel forums.
Why on diesel, because modern TDCI / HDI / TD4 are even more demanding on the quality and purity of fuel filtration than D-4, and the principle of the design of the injection pump is the same-plunger.
Added after 15 minutes 20 seconds:

Last edited by rammstein.72 on Apr 17, 2011 5:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Andrey, this is what does not smile me the most! ... would be with him, to put an experiment on the injection pump with convulsions and sentenced to replacement, but behind it there is also a valve and .. nozzles at a price tag of 9 rubles each!

Added after 9 minutes 34 seconds:
And the same “Suprotek” revelingly describes “INTELLIGENCE OF LUBRICATION .. Evolution of ATOM construction of a crystal lattice” MAX for a high pressure fuel pump, but only in a note in small letters writes:
-Not recommended for use with Common Rail fuel systems and unit injectors. - may impair the performance of faulty injectors. Therefore, if after processing the high-pressure fuel pump, the performance deteriorated sharply.

Last edited by rammstein.72 on Apr 19, 2011 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

An unexpected obstacle for car drivers on the Sedanka - Patroclus highway in Vladivostok.

It all started when one summer in June 2004, I bought a 1999 Toyota Nadia, 44,000 km.

But then frost came. My Nadyukha began to be capricious. (51,000 km.) B -0, started up the first time, but it took a long time to turn the starter. B -5, from the third. At -10, from 5-7. at -12 did not start at all. By that time, the order already had candles, fuel, air and oil filters, and there was a high-pressure fuel pump, for which I, foolishly, most of all sinned and was determined to change it.

I waited when all this came, called a tow truck and went to the service. By that time, I had accumulated a lot of articles and just reviews about the car, I conveyed all this to the guys. Especially helped with their work Essays on D-4 Written by Eugenio77. MANY THANKS TO HIM. We changed the spark plugs, the fuel and air filter, removed and cleaned (EGR) the exhaust gas recirculation system, cleaned the cold start nozzle, checked the pressure on it, it was 3.2 kg.

The effect of work was not given. then I quote the correspondence with Eugenio77 in the Forum on the website

We start:
Vacuum (MAP) no claim
The operating time of the cold start nozzle when trying to start for the first time was reduced - 4.2 ms.
Throttle opening degree - 7 degrees
... then when it started up ... but it worked very unstable. the system tried to correct the operation by increasing the opening angle of the throttle valve and the operating time of the injectors ... ... but the car stalled anyway. It turned out that there was not enough fuel [TC - actually air]? Where did it go?

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3007 07 Oct 2012

By the way, this is what I want to do tomorrow to remove the collector and clean it. With the manifold, it is clear how they cleaned and the valves, how were they cleaned?

Are the catalysts knocked out? Check out two of them. One at the beginning of the downpipe, the other at the end. Knock out unambiguously.

there are three catalysts but they have nothing to do with I checked the car without a front pipe
Post has been edited toyoter: 08 October 2012 - 03:03
quote following post

I want to do tomorrow to remove the collector and clean

The lower part must be removed and cleaned. If everything goes well, then it will be possible to do without removing the cylinder head

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ALTX 08 Oct 2012

Well, if one cylinder does not work (in your case, No. 4) and the coil from the candles is excluded, then measure the compression - if there is one, remove the force, I usually just supply air to the force, and if at least the "sweat" of gasoline comes out - for replacement.

there is compression. then I will remove the nozzles.

At 700 rpm, vacuum 50 kPa. What do the candles have to do with it?
1. Suction
2. Lack of purging.

Video (click to play).

Air leaks are absent. completely removed the manifold and eliminated all leaks!

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DIY repair of fuel injection pump toyota nadia

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