VIDEO
Repair and maintenance manuals for Toyota Corolla e140 / 150 model year 2006-2012 in electronic form. Books in pdf format, scanned by motorists and posted on the Internet. The manuals contain photo instructions on how to fix various problems, replace car parts, as well as assemble and disassemble the interior and exterior of the 10th generation Toyota Corolla.
Toyota Corolla / Auris: “Operation, Maintenance and Repair Manual”
Toyota Corolla produced since 2007, restyled since 2010 with gasoline engines of 1.33 l (101 hp), 1.4 l (97 hp), 1.6 l (101 and 124 hp) PDF Links: Part 1 and Part 2
TOYOTA AURIS from 2007 / TOYOTA COROLLA from 2006 petrol
equipped with 4ZZ-FE (1.4 l) and 1ZR-FE (1.6 l) gasoline engines. PDF Links: Part 1 , Part 2 and Part 3 .
Toyota Corolla, Auris, Corolla Verso
photo recommendations for maintenance and minor repairs Year of publication: 2008 PDF Download
Smokers use the following proverb: "A quickly lifted cigarette is not considered a dropped one." Something similar can be said about Toyota lovers and their cars, especially - the Corolla of the tenth family. First, getting the Toyota owner to believe that his car is not perfect is sometimes harder than persuading a smoker to give up his cigarette. And secondly, everything that was initially not quite successful on the Corolla E140 / 150 was fixed relatively quickly, which made it possible not to spoil the reputation of these - let's be honest! - very good cars. Therefore, the operation of the Corolla, released after the restyling of 2010, – far from the same as was the case with the first cars of 2007-2010 years of release. And this is good! The owners of "robots" will not let you lie.
Next year will be a jubilee for Corolla - she will turn 50 years old. During this time, 11 generations saw the light and even more restyling and modifications. By the way, we will also see the restyling of the eleventh family very soon. Now it's even hard to imagine that the first Corollas had rear-wheel drive and a longitudinally located power unit. That is how they appeared to the world (albeit only to the Japanese) in 1966. A year later, the Corolla could be bought by a US citizen, and since 1971 - by a resident of Europe.
The release of these cars allowed Toyota to reach unprecedented heights. In 1979, the fourth generation of this model came out and set an important and very pleasant record for the manufacturer: the total number of Corollas produced exceeded 10 million. The entry into the series of the eleventh family allowed the names of the brand and model to be entered into the Guinness Book of Records: Corolla became the "World's Best Selling Car Model". The success of the previous family also contributed a lot to this. In the body of the Toyota Corolla hatchback, we know it as the Auris, and in the station wagon body, as the right-hand drive Corolla Fielder. Today we will estimate how much it will cost to maintain a restyled Corolla 2011 with a specific example. Let's find out how much it will cost money and nerves.
Under the hood of our car is a 1.6-liter 1ZR-FE. It is a very reliable naturally aspirated engine that develops 124 hp. Before restyling, its weak point was the pump, which rarely served more than 70 thousand kilometers.After 2010, the pumps are different and do not cause any complaints. But we still have something to tell you about! The fact is that Toyota still has one drawback: these are very small service intervals. Due to their not very pleasant price, many are trying to quickly get away from dealer service and find another, more affordable service. But Corolla, despite its rather serious appearance, is not too difficult to maintain, so many procedures are quite within the reach of an ordinary technology lover, especially if he already has experience of wiping his face off engine oil when trying to replace it on his own. About how to get into the heart of the Corolla with your own hands and not kill her with this, we were told by the manager of the car service, and also the owner of Toyota Corolla, Alexander Polupenko.
Replacing the timing belt is not provided for by the regulations: it is not here, but there is a chain that will require intervention with a run of at least 250 thousand kilometers. But this is not the case to try to do something on your own: it is long and difficult enough. But saving 500 or 800 rubles (depending on the availability of protection) and replacing the oil with your own hands is quite possible. It is worth paying attention to a few things: it is better to buy an original filter (about 500 rubles), and at the same time purchase a new washer for the drain plug. It is multi-layered and cannot be re-installed. The filter will first have to be found (it is located on the back of the motor), and then - unscrewed with a special device, a "cup". In fact, only the filter element changes, so if you apply too much force when unscrewing, you can lose the body of this filter itself. There are no other subtleties here.
Sweaty injector O-rings can be seen on many vehicles. They can be changed in the service, but you can also save money. The fuel rail is mounted on two bolts that cannot be overlooked, but here it is important to unscrew one bolt by 14 in advance, which secures the fuel pipe of the line (if you look at the engine, the bolt is visible on the right side of the block). Without this, it will not be possible to remove the ramp. Before removing the ramp, you need to remove all accumulated dust and dirt from it and around it: it is completely undesirable to get them inside the motor! After installing the new rings, the ramp with the nozzles is put in place. All the work is to unscrew three bolts, but the feeling of happiness from the economic benefits received can inspire some "handy" Corolla owners for a long time.
The ignition system uses iridium spark plugs. In theory, their resource is 100 thousand kilometers. In practice, it is usually the same, but it is better to change them in advance, before the final failure. And you can also do this yourself, having four new candles, a key for 14 (not 17-19!) And an extension cord for it.
There are things that are almost useless to fight. This is the consumption of gasoline and oil (they are a little too large), as well as a small oil leak in the area of the chain tensioner. There is nothing criminal in this, and even with the last problem, you can live happily ever after.
The chassis of our car, despite the mileage of almost 95 thousand, is almost in perfect condition. Alexander said that a Corolla with a mileage of 190 thousand came to his service, and the only drawback in the chassis was a leaking shock absorber. The suspensions of this car are simple: front - MacPherson, rear - torsion beam. Dorestyling cars sometimes had problems with the rapid wear of some parts, but our Toyota has no known weak elements anymore. Lever silent blocks often run up to 200 thousand kilometers, and they do not require special delicacy during operation. In case of imminent repairs, the owner of the Corolla will not have to sell the kidney, the prices are quite reasonable. For example, a stabilizer bushing costs 500 rubles for a high-quality analogue and no more than a thousand for the original; replacement work will cost the same 500 rubles.
It is a good Russian tradition to swindle an authorized dealer by replacing brake pads and discs on your own. Usually it is based on a solid financial rationale, and Corolla is no exception. The brakes of the car are the best suited to its character: moderately tenacious, but with some admixture of imposingness. There is no point in chasing original discs and pads. Japan Parts pads cost from 1,000 to 1,400 rubles for the front and 800-1,000 for the rear, but the quality is not inferior to the originals, the price of which is at least three thousand rubles. The same situation with disks: the price for disks of a renowned Brembo company is about 2,000 rubles, original spare parts - from 5,000. The cost of replacing a disk in the service is 1,500, pads - 700. But do not rush to win these 700 rubles trying to replace the rear pads ! If everything is simple in front, then the caliper piston at the back must be tightened with a special tool, you simply cannot press it in, and the price of this "pribluda" is about one and a half thousand. Given that the rear pads last longer than the front pads, it is unlikely that buying a special tool will be a good investment.
Unfortunately, the knock on the steering column will have to be resigned to. This is perhaps the only frankly weak node of the tenth Corolla.
I had to see how Auris stopped with a "robot" on an almost level area. Its owner has nerves of steel, so he waited rather indifferently for this electronic eccentric to rest and stick at least some kind of transmission. Naturally, on the sedan, this box behaved in the same boorish way towards the driver. The first attempt to return the reliable, albeit old torque converter "automatic" to Corolla, was made back in 2008. Well, after the restyling, the "robot" left the car completely, which greatly delighted the future owners of the Corolla. The automatic transmission with the factory code U341E, like the manual transmission, is quite reliable. Its only drawback (according to very subjective impressions) is only 4 steps. There is nothing interesting in this "machine", and all maintenance consists in changing the oil at one hundred thousand kilometers. Both the filter and the oil will cost about three thousand per position.
The box has been on various Toyota models since the early 2000s, has established itself as extremely reliable, and it needs overhaul, depending on the intensity of use, at 200-300 thousand kilometers. For diagnostics, the masters recommend from time to time to check for oil leaks from the pump oil seal, which stands between torque converter and the box itself. If they are, then this is a symptom of wear of the "donut" clutch, which means that money for its repair can already be started to save.
What you need to know about CV joints? Remember, they do not tolerate reverse slip at the extreme positions of the steering wheel. The hinge in this way is very easy to ditch! And in order to be sure of only the not new car being purchased, it is worth giving the gas exactly in reverse and with the steering wheel turned inside out. The typical, incomparable crunch of a "grenade" can manifest itself in this position, without giving out in any way when moving forward.
After the changes made in 2010, Corolla looks like her older "sister" Camry. But she still retained one of her "tricks", and not the best: the creak of the panel's details. Let's hear how it sounds on the go.
We sit behind the wheel and adjust the chair and the steering wheel itself. The tilt range of the steering column is very small, but it is convenient to sit down immediately. We note that the dashboard of the restyled car looks much more interesting than the previous one, and this is only because of the white backlighting, which is brighter and "more fun" than orange. Despite the quite decent dimensions, the dimensions are felt easily, and almost immediately there is a feeling that you have been driving the Corolla more than once. We start the engine and play with the gas pedal. Not to say that the silence is complete, but in general it is quite quiet. We translate the selector into "D" and go. The suspension works well, but the "crickets" of the panel and dashboard sound unpleasant here.Moreover, the plastic is soft and does not look cheap. The rest is a solid and very endearing car. Such a "solid guy" who, however, can sometimes "go on a spree". Well, let's figure out what can be done with the panel creak.
The panel, or rather, its overlays can be glued. The hidden advantage of the interior is that all the linings and elements can be "scattered" very quickly, and then just as quickly assembled. By the way, at the same time you can change the cabin filter, you don't even need to disassemble anything for this. We open the "glove compartment" and see on the right, on the outer wall, a shock absorber rod, which softens the process of opening and closing. Gently throw it off, and then slightly press on the sidewalls of the "glove compartment". He goes down, and that's it - access is open.
It is just as easy to remove the door panels for gluing. Not everyone can quickly find two self-tapping screws, which must be unscrewed during this work. We show: one of them is located under the cover behind the door opening handle, and the second is in the armrest niche. It is more convenient to start unfastening the panel itself from the bottom: for this there is a special groove, which is easy to feel with your fingers at the bottom of the door.
Well, and if you bring beauty into the cabin, then you should pay attention to the automatic transmission selector knob. The paint on it holds very mediocre, so it is quickly erased. But it can be covered with leather, changed to chrome or any other. The main thing is to shoot correctly. Not only is it tightly planted, but also glued. But you can shoot, the main thing is not to rush and be persistent.
In general, the quality of the paintwork is not very happy. Chips appear too quickly, and although the car does not rot (Toyota after all!), It does not look the best from this. Alexander advises to glue the joints between the bumpers and fenders with double-sided tape or other material that prevents paintwork defects from appearing due to friction of these elements.
For help in preparing the material, we express our gratitude to the Marshal car service (St. Petersburg, Severny prospect, 5, box 7)
We are a specialized, post-warranty Toyota service in St. Petersburg
We service Corolla strictly in accordance with the regulations of the plant. Calculate maintenance in 3 clicks!
All spare parts are in stock! Your warehouse and store! Check for spare parts here!
In the photo gallery you can watch reports of the repair process at our service station
And here are the prices for specific work on suspension , steering or brake system , select the appropriate section
Have you decided to come to our service? Look at the section Contacts or use online recording on every page!
Service Toyota Corolla E 150 of the tenth generation, which has been produced since 2007 on 2012 year, we carry out regularly.
This is one of the most popular cars in Toyota's Russian lineup. In general, in all honesty, we admit that repair Toyota Corolla does not bring a lot of income to the car service. This is explained by the fact that this is one of the most reliable cars of recent years among models of all brands. Without exaggeration. Reliability is a hallmark of Toyota, but the Corolla stands out for the better among other models from this Japanese manufacturer.
In fact, up to 100,000 kilometers, Toyota Corolla repair comes down to routine maintenance, which, we recall, must be performed once in 10 000 kilometers or once a year (which comes first).
Above you can choose the service you are interested in, find out its cost and the current price list for spare parts.
Installed 3 gasoline engines:
1.6 liters, 124 hp , 16 valves, factory index 1ZR-F, timing chain drive.
1.4 liters, 97 hp , 16 valves, factory index 4ZZ-FE, timing chain drive.
1.3 liters, 101 hp , 16 valves, factory index 1NR-FE, timing chain drive.
Transmission types:
5 - speed manual transmission.
6 - speed manual transmission.
Robotic checkpoint (MMT or "robot").
4 - speed automatic transmission (very rare in our market).
We keep all Toyota Corolla spare parts for quality repairs in stock. You can find the cost and description on the website of our store.
The only really common problem with this car is associated with the unreliable operation of a "robot" - a robotic gearbox.
Read more about this problem and the cost of solving it in a separate article - "Toyota Corolla robot clutch replacement".
The rest repair Toyota Corolla is reduced to the maintenance of the following systems:
Brake system - replacement of pads and discs, installation of repair kits.
Every car owner should be aware that periodically there is a need to repair the chassis of the car. You can repair the rear or front suspension of a Toyota Corolla in a garage, following special instructions and using certain tools for work. How to do it correctly, we will tell you in this material.
The condition of the undercarriage of the vehicle determines how the car will hold the road, pass over broken surfaces and absorb all kinds of irregularities. As is the case with any other car, after passing a certain mileage, the Toyota Corolla will require repair of the front or rear suspension. You can understand this by the characteristic knock on the chassis. The first to wear out are usually rubber elements that have a service life.
The suspension of a Japanese car supplied to the Russian market has an increased ground clearance. The automaker focuses on poor road conditions in Russia and creates vehicles that are most suitable for operation.
The chassis of the Toyota Corolla may seem stiff enough, but it is very ergonomic. Stabilizers, for example, often run up to 70-90 thousand kilometers or more. They change quite easily, but this requires some knowledge and skills. The manufacturer took care of the simplicity of the design, so even a person who is far from car repairs can figure it out. Ball joints of the Toyota Corolla suspension withstand over 150 thousand kilometers.
Regular car maintenance can significantly extend the life of the car's undercarriage and save you money on expensive repairs.
Most often, stabilizer bushings and silent blocks fail. According to the car manufacturer's regulations, they should be changed every 70-90 thousand kilometers. Motorists driving at high speeds may decide at 140-150 km / h that their suspension is defective. In fact, it is normal to experience soft knocks at these speeds.
Unscrewed silentblock bolt
Toyota Corolla suspension repair is not a very difficult job, so you can do it yourself if you want. In some cases, silent blocks begin to knock pretty soon. The problem can be solved on your own or by contacting a specialist and paying him a certain sum of money. We will tell you about the process of replacing it with your own hands using the example of the rear bushing of the lower arm in the front suspension of the Toyota Corolla.
To begin with, raise the car and substitute the supports, and then remove the wheel from the side from which the knock is heard or the wear of the silent block is visually visible. After that, we unscrew two nuts and one bolt that holds the lower ball joint arm. To do this, you need a 17-inch head with a sturdy knob.
Next, unscrew the long bolt of the front silent block using a 19 head and slightly loosen the two bolts and a nut that secure the rear silent block and the transverse rod of the Toyota Corolla suspension.
After that, the lever must be pulled out and removed. This is not difficult to do - when you find yourself under the car, everything will become clear to you. After releasing the lever, place it on a pipe of a suitable diameter or attach a suitable sleeve to it. Then gently knock the rubber piece out of the seat.
After freeing up space for the silent block, it must be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated. It is also necessary to lubricate the inner part of the rubber band, which is intended for this Corolla suspension unit. Place the element inside and hammer in gently with a pipe and hammer.Then you can start reassembling the parts. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in repairing the undercarriage of a Toyota Corolla with your own hands. It is better to always change the silent blocks in pairs - they are not very expensive, so you will not spend a lot of money, but stock up on free time.
It is important to note that it is impossible to bring the situation to a critical state, otherwise the metal parts will start to rub and wear out. If you do not have the time or desire to repair the Corolla suspension yourself, contact the service center, but be prepared to pay a tidy sum for the work.
In service, the chassis of a Japanese car is quite simple. All car dealerships have the necessary spare parts that are inexpensive and easy to change. If you wish, you can replace the springs or stabilizers with your own hands - this is even easier than changing the silent blocks. You can also replace ball joints or tie rods if they also start knocking over time. Thus, when buying a Japanese car Toyota Corolla, you can be sure of the reliability and ease of maintenance of this vehicle.
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Toyota Corolla clutch actuator
Over the years, typical problems with MMT (Multidrive) Toyota Corolla are gaining more and more popularity. Toyota Motors admitted its mistakes in the models with MMT, which are the "disease" of the robotic gearbox. If you have already encountered such a problem or the feeling while driving makes you understand that it will soon be time to repair the actuator, then you need to figure it out and learn how to properly carry out the entire update process. Repair of the Toyota Corolla 2008 actuator photo report, will help you to clearly understand all the "subtlety" and complexity of the renewal of MMT elements.
Mechanical transmission "Multimode" is developed on the basis of a 5-speed gearbox with the addition of two automatic drives - actuators. The first actuator performs the function of a clutch actuator, and the second acts as a gear selection and shift actuator. These drives are controlled by the TCM or ECU. This system ensures uninterrupted automatic clutch operation. TCM and ECU control all transmission control modes, and in case of errors, they give appropriate signals.
The actuator for the 2008 Toyota Corolla is not a successful experiment of developers. This problem with the wear of the MMT drive has affected many Corolla owners. But not everything is as bad as it seems. Before replacing an actuator, you need to identify the problem and figure out how it is easier and more economical to solve this issue.
Perhaps the most common problem is the lack of "help at the start", then - "jerks and bumps when changing gears", as well as "clutch overheating". As for jerks, the automatic transmission, or rather the electronics of the ECU, adapts to the driver's driving style. Therefore, it is very difficult to notice any faults in the actuator. Overheating of the clutch is very easy to identify: there is not a pleasant smell of burning, and even a "red gear" lights up on the panel accompanied by a sound signal, and the box periodically hangs in the "N" position.
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If the most common error p0810 occurs, it is strongly not recommended to initialize the ECU yourself. You can reset all settings (supposedly reboot them), but this will entail a lot of unwanted breakdowns. In any case, the initialization of the ECU is prohibited!
Consequences that will negatively affect the initialization of the ECU:
Increased clutch wear as the ECU will update all of its data and will not account for disc wear. Also, the ECU will set a new reference point, respectively, we get no similarities in the operation of the clutch disc.
With increased wear, the probability of all deviations associated with MMT increases. The speed of disk movement is slowing down, which will subsequently lead to an unwanted error p0810.
The last stage of clutch disc wear will result in partial failure of the ECU. Your car will not move, or at best, the movement will be very difficult.
Toyota Corolla 2006-2008 is equipped with MMT 89530-12290. This is most likely the most imperfect actuator ever installed on a data model. Therefore, owners of Toyota Corolla 2006-2008 most often face difficulties in operating MMT.
If you've bought a used car and don't know which version of your ECU, all you need to do is remove the lower glove compartment. When viewed from the driver's side, the number will be visible on the body of the body.
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Exploded view of Toyota Corolla actuator
Replacing the clutch actuator completely is very expensive. Therefore, it is recommended to repair the Toyota Corolla actuator with your own hands.
The first stage of preparation is to check the adhesion. We accelerate the car to 50-60 kilometers / hour, switch to manual mode and turn on the fifth speed. In this case, we press the gas to the "floor", if the movement of the tachometer needle coincides with the speedometer arrow, then the clutch is most likely in perfect order. After this check, we proceed directly to the repair.
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DLC3 block with CG and TC contacts
We stop the car, put it in the "N" position, then turn off the ignition and the parking brake. Using the SST "paper clip" we connect the TC and CG pin of the DLC3 block (as in the photo). When turning on the ignition, take your foot off the brake pedal. The diagnostic system will start (all lights on the panel will start blinking). If any errors occur, the "red gear" will blink at intervals and intervals. If there are no problems, then it will blink without long intervals.
In order to get to the actuator, we need to remove the battery and the platform for it. Then we disconnect the chips from the sensor and the actuator motor. We directly remove the actuator itself (it is necessary to unscrew 3 bolts).
The first thing to do is to disconnect the motor from the mechanism. Most often, there is a lot of dust and dirt inside that needs to be cleaned. We check the brushes, if necessary we make a replacement (if the length is less than three millimeters). To determine whether it is gentle to change the motor or not, inspect all the wiring (it should be fresh, without deposits and not a pleasant burning smell).
When the drive is in our hands, we begin to disassemble its elements. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the sensor fasteners (be sure to remember the position in which it is located). There is a plate with antennae under the sensor, (nuts for the six) must be unscrewed. Then, in order for our process to go in the right direction, you need to set the position of the stem. To do this, take a screwdriver and twist the rotating element in the groove where the drive motor is located. This will start adjusting the stem.We expose it to the position of the most compressed inward.
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Toyota Corolla Actuator Spring
Now you can unscrew all the bolts in a circle and open the cover. To pull out the actuator stem, untwist it and take it out. We remove the lubricant and clean the entire block. We make diagnostics of all elements and identify problems. The easiest way is to pull out the spring and assemble (for testing) the entire testing kit. Most often this is bushing wear or a problem with the drive itself. But everyone has it differently, it is necessary to identify the causes of the malfunction individually.
When assembling, we replace the lubricant (temperature characteristics of the oil -40 ° C to + 250 ° C). We carry out the reverse procedure for collecting all the elements of the actuator.
When the actuator is fully assembled, set the stem to its maximum outward position and turn it in half a turn. We install the sensor on the antennae and turn it clockwise so that the holes of the element bolts coincide with the body. We treat the clutch fork well with universal grease and install the drive with a clearance of 5 - 9 millimeters. Next, we install the chips on the engine and drive sensor, then install the cover and directly the battery itself.
At first glance, the implementation of this procedure will seem not an easy process. Perhaps the first time will be difficult and not clear. But you will gain experience and know your car better. Moreover, when you independently install a Toyota Corolla clutch actuator repair kit, it will save money and bring you a little closer to knowing the car.
After turning on the ignition, press the brake pedal for at least seven seconds within three seconds. Then the buzzer should sound two short beeps. While holding the brake pedal, move the gear lever in the following sequence: N → E → M → + → M → + → M → + → M → + → M → E → N.
Release the pedal and wait 5-10 seconds. Then hold the brake again. The buzzer will beep - this will mean adjusting the clutch clamp position. Release the brake again, then press it again - the buzzer will beep twice. While holding the brake pedal, move the box position to "-" and release the brake. Turn off the ignition and wait about ten seconds. Now you can disconnect the TC and CG contacts in the DLC3 block. This completes the clutch position adjustment.
Video (click to play).
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