Where did you get that petal from, brother? everyone is jamming and then the petals will burn with something, where is the connection, explain, maybe I forgot the alphabet? The USR is not connected with the turbine, the fact that the USR after 120 thousand km begins to harm a proven fact. or replacement of the entire USR or a plug.
bordelus (17.07.2007 - 09:11) wrote:
Max is an interesting fact for you, I simulated your sound, though not so loudly, but it was at 2500, and it was during acceleration, but the engine howled too
after installing the pressure sensor, the turbine decided to take a ride, pumped 0.65 bar, threw off the hose from the bypass and gave the gas the engine howled like yours, the pressure swung to 1.2 did not rape the turbine any further. Can't you jam or not open the bypass !! proceeding from this, I decided to put myself a mechanical or electronic boost controller to temporarily increase the power of the motor.
PASAK (07.24.2007 - 16:24) wrote:
xStudentx 24 August 2007 - 15:13
Hello Surfers! There are a bunch of questions, if not difficult to help the lamer: Interested exclusively, in a new body, 1KZ - 3L 🙂 1. Surf '96, body 130? 2. Surf 96, in contrast to the previous ones, comes already with Part time, so can you ride with a constant 4WD? 3. Skoko and what modes are on the razdatka? And what other chips are there? 4. What is the maximum rubber mono to supply without a lift? 5. 3L 1 KZ all go with a nostril, as I saw like, turbo 1 KZ without a nostril, or am I mistaken? 6. Everyone scolds the driver's stupid landing, such as uncomfortable sitting? 7. How is the permeability better than that of the Pajero? (I know in advance what you will answer) 8. What are the most common diseases and how many showdowns on Surfs? 9. Is there any factory fuel heating? Thanks in advance.
Video (click to play).
p.s read 20 pages, could not resist, decided to ask this, so do not send to
xStudentx (08.24.2007 - 15:13) wrote:
xStudentx 24 August 2007 - 17:07
Gleb (08.24.2007 - 16:53) wrote:
3L and 1KZ are different engines, you won't find 3L, and you don't need it!
And so you messed up everything that you could!
xStudentx (08.24.2007 - 15:13) wrote:
Hello Surfers! There are a bunch of questions, if not difficult to help the lamer: Interested exclusively, in a new body, 1KZ - 3L 🙂 1. Surf '96, body 130? 2. Surf 96, in contrast to the previous ones, comes already with Part time, so can you ride with a constant 4WD? 3. Skoko and what modes are on the razdatka? And what other chips are there? 4. What is the maximum rubber mono to supply without a lift? 5. 3L 1 KZ all go with a nostril, as I saw like, turbo 1 KZ without a nostril, or am I mistaken? 6. Everyone scolds the driver's stupid landing, such as uncomfortable sitting? 7. How is the permeability better than that of the Pajero? (I know in advance what you will answer) 8. What are the most common diseases and how many showdowns on Surfs? 9. Is there any factory fuel heating? Thanks in advance.
p.s read 20 pages, could not resist, decided to ask this, so do not send to
xStudentx 25 August 2007 - 12:30
Mikle (08.24.2007 - 17:21) wrote:
3L and 1KZ are different engines, you won't find 3L, and you don't need it!
And so you messed up everything that you could!
Aren't there Surfs with a 3-liter 1 KZ diesel engine with a turbine? And this is:
Well, I got it wrong, that's why I decided to ask you, since I almost don't understand Surfs
People: Surf92, body 130, Engine 2L-TE - covered, you can say (you need a piston, rings, liners, and possibly a crankshaft boring, in general, overhaul) Who can say whether it is better to repair or take a new one? What is more profitable? And how much will both cost? And also where?
Good afternoon! A couple more questions arose during the operation. Surf 130, 1KZ, automatic transmission. 1. For some reason, the glow plug relay goes out very quickly. In fact, it burns on the panel for literally 1 second and then goes out. I can't figure out why. Do candles actually warm up so quickly? 2. When you turn on the downshift from 1 to 2 gear tightened. Is that so for everyone? 3. With active driving, a slight jolt is felt when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.With a smooth start-off and quiet acceleration, this is not. Box feature or pillow wear? 4. On XX, the hand-out lever vibrates. What is the reason for this?
1. It also goes out quickly for me. In winter, I saw several times in the mornings, mostly like 3-4 seconds on fire. 2. If you turned on the razdatka, then it's okay. Even a slight jerk is possible. 3. Change the oil in the automatic transmission with flushing the box and flushing / replacing the filter. I also started with a light push, then (after 1.5-2 months) it became more noticeable. 4. Even on a 2006 maize 100, this boom vibrates on XX. On Pradikah, too, I saw vibrations. So that's okay. It is much more terrible when you are walking on very loose sand and there is not enough power, the car starts to jerk in jerks and this unfortunate lever jumps under each such jerk.
Almaty, Duysenov st., 25 (corner of Rozybakiev st.)
Thank you. I'll come and talk tomorrow. Maybe they'll say something smart. One thing is bad. Lenses will not work for me because I don't want to do my whole face from scratch. And so yes, I got the sack almost like for free. Post has been editedrom_kor on: 05/25/2006, 18:20:34
Guys where you can mark oil in a box with filter change and flush on 130 body. And then where I do not call everywhere flushing without removing with the help of a super duper device.
I changed on Shell (near Tulpar) and on Elf (Cosm.-Botanical). Both here and there they change using a special device (100% replacement) with preliminary removal of the pallet and flushing the filter. The price is in the region of 20-25 thousand tenge.
Guys where you can mark oil in a box with filter change and flush on 130 body. And then where I do not call everywhere flushing without removing with the help of a super duper device.
I changed on Shell (near Tulpar) and on Elf (Cosm.-Botanical). Both here and there they change using a special device (100% replacement) with preliminary removal of the pallet and flushing the filter. The price is in the region of 20-25 thousand tenge.
took on Bayan 8 liters of ESSO semisynthetics 10W40 plus a filter, for only 10 thousand replacement for free: on tol bi, between Mate zalki and Saina Ryskulova-Suyubaya (bridge) Furmanova, between Abay and Satraev Rokhybakiev, between Utepova and Kikhtenko
thanks a lot but this is a dialogue from the beginning of 2005
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Hello. Two months ago I bought myself a surf. But the suspension is very low because of this tore off the armor and tore the radiator. Please tell me how you can raise the suspension by 10-15 cm. And what do you need to buy for this?
to raise the suspension by 15 centimeters, you need to roll the bridge forward
, but you can rip the body off the frame by 5 centimeters and play with the suspension for the same amount. Here is a link to the forum in which there are still a lot of links on the front suspension lift:
Thank you very much for your writing and for the link)))
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Take the car, write down exactly what happened.
Experts, tell me exactly 5L for 2 LTE 1991 release is getting up? And then drag it to Anapa in order to make sure there that the camshaft is not so located.
Post has been edited interceptor – 28.2.2009, 20:48
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- revision for “gases” - no;
- revision of valve clearances - norm;
- broaching the cylinder head - tightened all the bolts with a force of 135-140 (was 110).
After talking with INCH, the thought arose: maybe on 2LTE it is necessary to periodically check the cylinder head tightening? Over time, the gasket “shrinks” and micro gaps appear. In these places, the gasket begins to burn out, and after it the cylinder head “quacks”.
I changed my “head” in June 2004. After that, I did not set speed records, I tried to keep the rpm within the range of 2-2.5 thousand. The temperature on the sensor never even jerked beyond the central part of the scale.
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After talking with INCH, the thought arose: maybe on 2LTE it is necessary to periodically check the cylinder head tightening? Over time, the gasket “shrinks” and micro gaps appear. In these places, the gasket begins to burn out, and after it the cylinder head “quacks”.
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Take the car, write down exactly what happened.
Experts, tell me exactly 5L for 2 LTE 1991 release is getting up? And then drag it to Anapa in order to make sure there that the camshaft is not so located.
Kick-ass. I explain in Russian. I put my own hands on the cylinder head from 5L on my 2L-TE 92 years old. SURF (body LN-130). All delivered with the same camshaft, take it even with the engine. ))
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The cylinder head bursts regardless of the gasket
But if everything is not “pulled” enough, overheating will happen faster?
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There are mostly cracks between the valves.
and it was enraged that, like in the summer, the second Armanskiy pass is understood only and you look so that the arrow does not crawl up. ... The rise is 30-40 km.
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First try changing the radiator cap. Not Chinese.
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That is why they remove the thermostat in the summer for 2 LTE
First try changing the radiator cap. Not Chinese.
from the cylinder head cracks, the exhaust gases press into the coolant system. antifreeze and expelled. but does not go back. and the cork here, if it is Chinese, breaks the pipes.
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Didn't understand a little: is the cork a lid? Those. can it “freeze” in the open state with proper workmanship?
Post has been edited KV2008 – 3.3.2009, 3:13
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“Spring will show who cocoa where”. In this case, winter will show. I will not open a new topic - I will continue this one.
In general, problems with antifreeze began again: it began to disappear, an infection. I sniffed the exhaust - it doesn't seem to smell. “Gases” are also not visible. And the car will stand / train - you need to top up. The dipstick looked - the norm. The level in the expansion tank is constant. But somewhere the antifreeze must go out of the sealed system. It's dry under the car.
I began to understand. I drove my face into the sky, opened the hood, added gas - I found it! Siphon from under the radiator cover. Stupidly the sealing gum is worn out, it does not hold pressure. It can be seen only under increased revs (1200), everything is fine at idle. Replaced the cover - the problem disappeared.
The joy lasted for a month. Then “25 again”! Again, the antifreeze disappears somewhere. More and more each time.The search for the worked out scheme did not give any results. I must add that since the garage is unheated, I immediately turn on the heating upon arrival. And the car costs a day, or even a week. I thought it was because of the constant heating. I tried not to turn it on immediately after the trip. The car stood for a day - the result is the same: in the expansion tank without changes, 200-300 g were added to the radiator.
In general, half of December was washed out. On holidays I take the car and drive it out of the garage. Purely by chance I glanced at the wheel - something the levers seemed too clean. He came up - and there it drips. In short, I saw that it was oozing from the tee to the heating. Found.
Recently I began to tighten the clamps. And a new "joint": the hose from the heater outlet to the engine stiffened so that it began to resemble a piece of plastic in the cold. Only 3 years of operation. And at the junction of the hose with the heater, the rubber is generally sintered and “welded” to the iron! I barely tore it off. So the owners of the heaters should pay attention to the bottleneck. Only Russian could buy the hose. The rubber is rough, quite tough. I'm afraid that it will only stand until spring.
Now, after a lengthy introduction, there are a couple of questions:
1. Is it possible to purchase a hose (internal diameter 16), which is not afraid of overheating and will not chill from antifreeze?
2. In the process of replacing the hoses, the system became airy. Antifreeze was poured, the car stood for a day. Today I added a little more. How to properly get rid of air congestion in the system? And it's scary to overheat the engine.
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Assessment of the car owner: Ground clearance 180 mm, trunk 500 l, spacious interior, my two are fighting in the back and it doesn't reach me! Not so long ago a stuck san-yong drove through a snowdrift! The tank is enough for more than a thousand km to move, with traffic jams. The process of repairing on the knee of any service is not needed, there are spare parts, hands are there, go ahead. moreover, for the amount of 230000p full minced meat and everything works. Climbed on the forums myself put the signaling all readable thanks to the guys. how is going. from 40 to 5th and rushing, from the place of the clutch you throw only a grunt and go!
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Description: The dimensions are as follows: length - 3439, width - 1100, height - 1786 mm. The wheelbase is 2509 mm. The ground clearance is 222 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The 2-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the engine. There are 4 valves per cylinder. Diameter of one the cylinder is 71 mm, the piston stroke is 79 mm. The engine crankshaft accelerates to 3000 rpm. The maximum torque is maintained up to 4000 rpm.
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Below you can see the technical properties of the Toyota hilux surf 130 body tuning. Express your worldview about cars in the comments.
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The procedure for removing and disassembling the hub completely (with the pivot pin) was already described by me here ... If you need to perform a number of other tasks, for example, check or replace wheel bearings, complete removal of the hub is not required.To do this, simply unscrew the brake caliper (1 lower bolt), remove and hang the caliper from the upper lever. Brake pad mounting bracket: loosen the lower bolt, and unscrew the upper one. We take the brake bracket to the side.
We unscrew the counter. nut, remove the retaining plate, unscrew the nut that presses the retaining ring, which, in turn, presses the outer bearing. This is where axial play is eliminated, if any.
Often the cause of backlash is a wear in the retaining ring (see the figure on the right, the groove is shown by an arrow). The output appears due to the constriction of the bearings, and then gradually increases with the appearance of the backlash.
If you do not immediately find and eliminate the cause, the tire will gradually "eat up". The check is carried out on a raised machine, we apply some force to the wheel, pull it left - right. There should be no visible backlash.
Taking aside the brake pad mounting bracket, we remove the rotating part of the hub with the fixed brake disc. We hold the bearing, try to avoid getting dirt on it. If it happens, rinse in diesel or gasoline and lubricate with grease (molybdenum disulfide). In general, I advise you to take it as a rule, when performing such work, always have grease, flushing fluids on hand, in order to be sure to flush and lubricate bearing assemblies operating in difficult conditions.
So that the heavy brake disc does not interfere with further work, we separate it by unscrewing 6 bolts. We can take out the bearings ourselves without any problems. The outer bearing is immediately accessible and the inner one is located behind the stuffing box. Using a puller or a suitable mandrel, we squeeze out the bearing with the oil seal. We wash the bearings and proceed to troubleshooting.
On the surface of the bearing there should be no scoring, traces of "machining", there should be a mirror
uniform coverage, with free rotation of the hand there should be no "biting" and "wedging". There should also be no tarnishing colors indicating strong heating of the bearing assemblies. You should also check the "glass" of this bearing, whether there are traces of impacts, uneven coating on it. If necessary, we make a decision to replace the bearing or bearings. They are sold together with a glass.
I managed to purchase a bearing from the same company KOYO made in Japan. Thus, the bearings were completely identical to those previously installed.
Having new bearings in our hands, carefully knock out the "cups" of the bearings with a rod made of copper (or similar soft metal). It is possible to use a puller, but due to the lack of one, I will describe the method of removing the "glass" in a garage. In the figure on the left, the arrows indicate the recesses where we rest the copper rod. With the hammer blows on the rod, alternately, crosswise, we go around all four notches. So the "glass" will gradually move towards the exit. You must hit carefully so that the rod does not break off and do not make unnecessary serifs.
We clean the mounting surface, apply a little grease and press in the new "glass" with a suitable mandrel until it sits in place. If replacing the bearings is all that was required, the hub study can be completed at this stage. Fill in more grease, grease the bearings well before installing. We put an external bearing, a ground or new circlip. We tighten the nut with the recommended tightening torque 28 N * M... We will twist the rotating part of the hub in different directions to settle the bearings. Then it is recommended to check the force of resistance to rotation using a dynamometer attached to the wheel stud and tighten the nut until the force of resistance to rotation is 3.5..8.5H (which corresponds to 350-850 g).
Maximum axial play should not exceed 0.05 mm. Then we put everything in the reverse order - the brake pad bracket, the pads themselves, the brake caliper, etc.
pivot pin (inner, bronze bushing and oil seal - grease must be applied here)
Now we will deal with the stub axle. How do you know, before removing, if the bronze bushings are broken? We pull, from the inside, for the drive, if they "walk", then the bushings have good wear. If, at the same time, not a dull sound is heard, but a pure - metallic, this also testifies to the fact that there has been no lubricant for a long time during sliding, or it “coked”, or they forgot to apply it altogether. Thus, when sliding on a “dry” surface, there is even greater wear in the form of a scuff, and a creak is heard somewhere in large turns (at low speed).
If you just want to do maintenance, add grease and that's it, you won't need to remove the stub axle. It will be enough to free the drive by removing the retaining ring and washer.
By hand, from the inside, we push the drive as far as possible, with the wheel evenly standing. We clean out the old grease and add a new one. Let's twist the drive, push it into place and push it out again, add grease again. We also add grease to the drive tip, when it goes inside the pivot pin, a layer of grease will also be applied to the working surface of the outer, bronze bushing. Then we put the washer and fix the drive with a retaining ring. Now he will not blur with you.
Now consider the option of removing the pivot pin to replace the bushings.
For clarity, the pivot pin is shown on the left with the elements installed on it:
2. Inner wheel bearing firm KOYOTR100802A made in Japan (inner diameter 50 mm);
3. External wheel bearing firm KOYOLM102949HI–CAP made in Japan (inner diameter 43 mm);
4. Groove for retaining rings;
5. External, bronze bushing.
When pressing in a new bronze bushing, pay attention to the alignment of the groove 4 (shown in the figure above) with the notch 5 on the outer, bronze bushing.
These two bronze bushings are rem. kit. The price for them ranges from 400 to 500 rubles in our auto shops. However, where these bushings are very scarce, you can, having removed the old bushings, order new ones from a competent turner, but at the same time, along with the pivot pin, you will also need to refer the drive to the turner.
Number of cylinders / arrangement: 6 / V-shaped
Engine power hp / rpm: 130/4600
Engine displacement: 2693 cc
Torque / rpm: 240/3400
Fuel tank capacity: 87 l
Acceleration to 100 km / h: 13.5 s
Maximum speed: 170 km / h
Fuel consumption in the urban cycle: 15.5 liters per 100 km
Ladies and gentlemen. We are glad to welcome you to our forum. Before creating a topic, please read the topic "ATTENTION" everything is described there. Thank in advance. and Welcome.
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