DIY fuel pipe repair

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the tube of the fifth cylinder from the injection pump burst. in my village you can’t find it, and in the existences it’s not. is it possible how to repair, flare, flare. can come up from something? scrapping right in a circle in front of the tapered tip, half the diameter. I want to try to drill a tapered tip and re-solder it on the tube, but without experienced advice, somehow dumb.
THANKS IN ADVANCE for the advice comrades.

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the tube of the fifth cylinder from the injection pump burst. in my village you can’t find it, and in the existences it’s not. is it possible how to repair, flare, flare. can come up from something? scrapping right in a circle in front of the tapered tip, half the diameter. I want to try to drill a tapered tip and re-solder it on the tube, but without experienced advice, somehow dumb.
THANKS IN ADVANCE for the advice comrades.

if the length of the tube allows, why not try it - the main thing is to flare it well.

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Look from a truck or a tractor. I've read somewhere that some are suitable, from T-40, or from something else.

Post has been edited74rus: 11 July 2011 - 22:47

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Look from a truck or a tractor. I've read somewhere that some are suitable, from T-40, or from something else.

Well, yes, I also read that the injectors fit from the T-40 to some kind of diesel, which means, in principle, the pipe should fit))) I do not know the same pipes from all diesel models. in terms of the diameter and size of the landing head and fitting.
thanks comrade!

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if the length of the tube allows, why not try it - the main thing is to flare it well.

in the sense of drilling out this cone and re-soldering it on the tube. but if you just solder the lump on the tube and give the shape of a normal seat? it will not withstand your assumptions.
Thank you

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We had something similar on the 190th, on the bend. They just soldered a lump on top in the garage. It turned out ugly, but until they found another pipe, I went. You can do this, and ask the guys about the pipe itself here on the site, maybe someone else has unnecessary and healthy used in the storerooms of the homeland - they will send it. ))

in the sense of drilling out this cone and re-soldering it on the tube. but if you just solder the lump on the tube and give the shape of a normal seat? it will not withstand your assumptions.
Thank you

The collective farm will not last long .. Checked. Have Sheremet were. Ask.
Tighten the tubes not much... Almost by hand.
Be sure to attach to the standard holders! ... Otherwise, you will change constantly!
Good luck!

The collective farm will not last long .. Checked.

How to say. There are decent welders who can weld normally and will walk for a long time. Checked.

Look from trucks or a tractor. I read somewhere that some are suitable, from T-40

From the T-40 is not necessary. Even if the thread fits. To put it mildly, evaporate you to bend this tube. Azzy thickness.

Post has been edited Cannibal Mad on: 12 July 2011 - 16:08

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If you have a familiar turner, then you can carve a cone with a tube and weld it to your broken one. Has been proven to work for a while.

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How to say. There are decent welders who can weld normally and will walk for a long time. Checked.

From the T-40 is not necessary. Even if the thread fits. To put it mildly, evaporate you to bend this tube. Azzy thickness.

comrades, thank you very much for your advice.
As a result, I sealed the pipe with brass, rubbed it in and stopped flowing. I hope that's enough until I find something to replace! By the way, a tube from the T-40 will not fit, there is a pipe for 17, although it is a pity, in our collective farm town there is enough such equipment.

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tubes come from Tatra
a little thicker, on the threads and cones like a native
put it on the road, then replaced it with my own
now I’m rolling a new (straight) Tatra’s one in stock, so that I can reach any cylinder if there’s anything

Post has been edited by Demyan: 13 July 2011 - 16:04

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tubes come from Tatra
a little thicker, on the threads and cones like a native
put it on the road, then replaced it with my own
now I’m rolling a new (straight) Tatra’s one in stock, so that I can reach any cylinder if there’s anything

Tatra is also such a machine that you can't really find it))), although I think it's easier than a mercier! Thank you, buddy.

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Tatra is also such a machine that you can't really find it))), although I think it's easier than a mercier! Thank you, buddy.

I also broke off at 123. tube kamaz. native nuts. cut. tube. planted native nuts, carved a tube so that it could fit tightly. and scalded with gas. second year I go. 15 thousand passed from the Tatras did not come. the cone is not quite like that. and the hooks seem to be like mine.

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I also broke off at 123. tube kamaz. native nuts. cut. tube. planted native nuts, carved a tube so that it could fit tightly. and scalded with gas. second year I go. 15 thousand passed from the Tatras did not come. the cone is not quite like that. and the hooks seem to be like mine.

As far as I understood, the KAMAZ fittings came up. I have them at 14, but where you don't look everything at 17 (((damn

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I also broke off at 123. tube kamaz. native nuts. cut. tube. planted native nuts, carved a tube so that it could fit tightly. and scalded with gas. second year I go. 15 thousand passed from the Tatras did not come. the cone is not quite like that.and the hooks seem to be like mine.

As far as I understood, the KAMAZ fittings came up. I have them at 14, but where you don't look everything at 17 (((damn

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Tatra is also such a machine that you won't find much

well we have such

from the Tatra did not fit. the cone is not quite like that. and the hooks seem to be like mine.

put the tube from Tatra 815 (scoop) with V10 air, on the 602nd

I have them at 14, but where you don't look everything at 17 (((damn

the main thing is that the thread and the height of the nut fit
here is a spare (for some reason rusted in two years in the trunk) nut by 17, tightened moderately everything kept it, then it got up normally too, without leaks
the photo is not a fountain, but the essence is visible

Repair of high pressure fuel lines of the fuel system of internal combustion engines of cars

Heading: Technical science

Date of publication: 30.03.2015 2015-03-30

Article viewed: 1718 times

Zakharov Yu.A., Golovin A.I. - 2015. - No. 7. - S. 129-131. - URL https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1223/archive/87/16859/ (date accessed: 19.10.2018).

Ensuring fuel efficiency and technical readiness of mobile equipment are the main tasks of farms operating cars, buses, specialized equipment, tractors, and so on. One of the items of fuel consumption is the presence of spills during refueling, maintenance and operation of mobile vehicles. The amount of fuel spills is largely influenced by the technical condition of the fuel lines of the vehicle's fuel system, especially high pressure fuel lines. The article discusses the main defects of high-pressure fuel lines and methods for their elimination.

Keywords: strait, fuel, fuel line, repair, fuel consumption, fuel system, restoration, fuel equipment.

Saving fuel during the operation of the vehicle fleet has always been and is an urgent task for business entities. Reducing the annual fuel consumption of the equipment in use has a positive effect not only on the value of operating costs, but also on the ecological state of the environment.

Incomplete and uneven combustion of fuel is a major cause of air pollution. The exhaust gases of cars and other mobile equipment with internal combustion engines contain more than 170 harmful substances, about 160 of which are derivatives of hydrocarbons, which are closely related to incomplete combustion of fuel [1].

In addition, the environment suffers from the so-called "spills" of fuel when refueling and operating mobile cars. Spills can account for up to 15 percent of a vehicle's total annual fuel consumption.

The main reasons for the presence of fuel spills are the careless performance of operations during the maintenance and repair of the vehicle's fuel system and interconnected systems and mechanisms, leakage of the joints of the fuel system components and assemblies, the presence of defects in high and low pressure pipelines [1–2].

The overall fuel consumption is influenced by the technical condition of the vehicle and its systems, operating conditions, fuel quality, environment and driver's qualifications.

The fuel system of a car is designed to ensure the timely supply of fuel to the combustion chamber of the internal combustion engine cylinders, and it is one of the most important systems of a modern car [1, 3–4]. The fuel system has two main circuits - a low pressure circuit and a high pressure circuit. The difference between the circuits is the amount of pressure at which the fuel flows through them.

One of the main malfunctions of the fuel equipment of mobile machines is the wear of the working surfaces of the tips of the high-pressure pipelines and, as a consequence, the violation of the tightness, leading to the appearance of excessive consumption of fuel in the form of spills [1, 5].

In addition, a violation of the tightness of the fuel system circuits leads to a decrease in the efficiency of fuel injection into the combustion chambers and a general decrease in the efficiency of the engine and the machine as a whole. That is, fuel leaks in the power supply system, in addition to an increase in consumption, lead to a violation of the normal operation of the engine [1–3].

Diesel engines use split high pressure fuel lines that include a short fuel line, an intermediate union, and a long fuel line. To ensure reliable operation of the fuel system, the fuel lines are attached to the bracket with clamps. In addition, the fuel lines at the outlet of the high-pressure fuel pump are additionally fastened together with aluminum strips.

Typical defects in high-pressure fuel lines include:

- deformation of the sealing cone;

- reduction of the inner diameter at the ends of pipelines;

- bends with a radius of curvature less than permissible;

- reduction of the length of pipelines with repeated nozzles of the ends of the tubes;

- local wear and tear on the outer surface of the tubes;

- damage to nuts and fittings.

The presence of such defects leads to disruption of the normal functioning of the fuel system, which leads to a decrease in power and an increase in fuel consumption.

Most of these defects are detected visually - by external examination.

Deformation (jamming) of the sealing cone surface leads to a loss of tightness of the fuel system circuit, the appearance of spills, a decrease in fuel supply efficiency, and so on.

The decrease in the inner diameter of the ends of the pipeline is checked with a normal gauge or a calibrated wire with a diameter of 1.7 mm, which is inserted at a depth of 20–25 mm from the end of the fuel line. A decrease in the inner diameter of the fuel line leads to an increase in its hydraulic resistance with all the ensuing consequences.

Bends with small radii of curvature, as well as external deformation of the pipelines, create additional hydraulic resistance to the fuel flow through the pipelines, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the system, the appearance of an unnecessary load on the fuel pump and to a general destabilization of the engine operation.

A decrease in length as a result of repairs carried out or for other reasons can lead to excessive tensile stresses in the fuel system pipelines, which will lead to cracks, ruptures, kinks, and so on, leading to a loss of system tightness.

Damage to nuts and fittings also leads to a loss of tightness and the appearance of corresponding consequences in the form of a decrease in power, efficiency, and so on.

High pressure fuel lines are restored by plastic deformation (upsetting) or complete replacement of the tip. To carry out the upsetting, the fuel line with a defective tip is subjected to high-temperature annealing at a temperature of 700… 800 C °, to reduce the strength of the material and impart plasticity to it. Then, the tip is cut off and the end of the tube is deburred with a file or abrasive tool. The body is planted on specialized stands or devices using hydraulic or mechanical presses.

To completely replace the tapered tip, the end of the fuel line tube with the damaged tip is cut off and the burrs are removed from the resulting end. Then, a pre-fabricated new tip is welded to the cut end of the fuel line. In most cases, gas welding is used, the ends of the pipes to be connected are sawed off, paying special attention to the evenness of the cut and the cleanliness of the inner diameter of the pipeline. Before welding, the pipeline must be blown out with compressed air. After reconstitution, check the inside diameter at the weld with a gauge or ball of the appropriate diameter.

A set of high pressure fuel lines repaired in this way must be tested for flow capacity (hydraulic resistance).

Gas welded remanufactured or remanufactured fuel lines must be durability tested and withstand fuel pressures 50% greater than the maximum fuel injection pressure.

The throughput of the high pressure fuel lines is determined on the wall for testing fuel equipment. For this, the fuel lines to be checked are connected alternately to the same section of the operating fuel pump. The fuel must be collected at the same time intervals, at the same shaft speed with the pump rack fixed in one position. The deviation of the throughput of the fuel lines of one set should not exceed 5%.

Fuel lines that have cracks and dents more than 3 millimeters deep, abrasions (scuffs) up to 2 millimeters deep, bending radius less than 30 millimeters or a deformed tapered tip must be replaced or repaired.

Union nuts that have damage to the thread (more than one turn), as well as crushing of the flanges for the wrench, must be discarded and replaced.

Dents in pipelines are removed by straightening (driving a ball of a certain diameter). In the presence of cracks or fractures, as well as abrasion of the tubes, defective places are either welded with brass followed by stripping, or cut out with subsequent connection of low-pressure fuel lines using connecting pipes, and high-pressure ones by butt-welding. If at the same time the length of the pipeline has decreased, then an additional piece of the tube is inserted.

Before installing on the engine, all fuel pipes must be thoroughly rinsed and well purged with compressed air, as well as pressurized under pressure to detect leaks.

Thus, excessive fuel consumption during the operation and maintenance of mobile vehicles consists of the fuel consumption of the engine and spills resulting from the presence of defects in the fuel lines of the fuel system.

The existing methods of restoration and repair make it possible to restore the operability of fuel lines while maintaining the main technical and economic indicators of the operation of internal combustion engines and their systems.

1. Zakharov, Yu. A. Analysis of the equipment used for diagnostics, testing and inspection of nozzles of diesel internal combustion engines of cars [Text] / Yu. A. Zakharov, EA Kulkov // Young scientist. - 2015. - No. 2. - P. 154-157.

2. Zakharov, Yu. A. Checking, diagnostics and testing of diesel injectors [Text] / Yu. A. Zakharov, EG Rylyakin // Transport. Economy. Social sphere. (Actual problems and their solutions): a collection of articles of the International Scientific and Practical Conference / MNITs PGSKhA. - Penza: RIO PGSKhA, 2014. S. 43–47.

bring brass with borax
where to get?

I tried this node again yesterday
same crap in the morning
stalls and kicks

Dad arrived for 5 minutes
I say this is such a damn nonsense, see they say I'm shaking it works. I do not pump, it stalls
he says, look under the fuel filter, what is it dripping
EPT, diesel fuel. a cork flowed on the tf
although he just did not touch

but I still want to solder the tube
they are very unreliable after bending and unbending
or for this tool to be in the car
there is a gas soldering iron, it always hangs in the car
just such small connections to solder

vs83, HP tubes can be made of copper brake pipes. Put on nuts, flare, anneal, and tighten. It is necessary to bend in advance according to the model of relatives, it is better to bend in a hot state, on a mandrel, it is not difficult to do it yourself. The main thing is cleanliness, cleanliness, and again cleanliness. The pipes should not contain sawdust, dust and other crap that complicates the life of a diesel operator. It is better to replace copper gaskets for nuts. If you anneal the old ones, they can leak. New ones cost a penny, it's better not to save.

Sealing steel is a dead matter; at a pressure of 115-130 bar, you shouldn't even try.

2Vlad
Yeah, that's what I suffer from ruptures, with copper VD pipes, one of which was made by "Kulibin"

2Vlad, addition
Do not forget that the average pressure in the brake system is from 10 to 12 MPa. And he does not vomit. Even with sharp drops, it does not break. If the tubes are “tired” of vibration, there will be at least 4 mm wall thickness, they will both “sweat” and crack.

Serge
Yah?!
Then why at the stand I press out the injectors at a pressure of 115 kgcm ”2?

ZY Maybe you are confusing with a comon rail? This is where the nozzle is really capable of developing such a pressure, in my opinion, for today, a maximum of 1800 bar. But the nozzle, not the injection pump. On a diesel engine with a mechanical or electronic injection pump, I have not seen a pressure higher than 140 bar.

the fuel pressure in the injectors of a conventional diesel engine with mechanical injection is from 100 to 400 bar

I have never seen copper pipes on freight diesels,
no fixing structures of any kind

PS
by the way, it must be borne in mind that the tubes must be of the same length

Pitrovich, +1 about the pressure. I had nothing to do with freight.

About the length of the tubes - not praff. In fact, do not care, tk. the expansion of the metal during pulsation at the feed can be neglected, it is several thousandths of a percent, the compressibility of the fuel is, in my opinion, a few hundredths. Pascal's law has not yet been repealed.

Fuel leaks are one of the most dangerous situations on the road. If you notice stains on the tube or hose gasoline or smudges, the cause must be eliminated immediately. Of course, if you find a leak in the garage, then the tube connecting gas tank and gasoline pump or hose carburetor should be replaced immediately.

Eliminate the leak on the road you need to be very careful. Remove any open flames in the vicinity. Let's start with the tube fuel pump... There are only two reasons for the formation of smudges: time and mechanical damage. The tube runs under the bottom, so if you have to drive off-road, you can hook it on any high bump or the edge of a deep hole (on city roads it can be a curb). If you feel that the bottom is caught, stop and inspect the bottom.

Hardly copper tube gas line will suffer from time, but the hose connecting gasoline pump With carburetor maybe. If you constantly feel gasoline smell in the passenger compartment after a long period of inactivity. Of course, it could be gas tank, and tank cap, but in any case, you need to inspect the hose. Run your hand along the entire length, because small cracks can form in the rubber, and petrol will ooze, not drip. If there are stains of gasoline, the hose must be replaced.

The repair consists in removing a section of the tube with a crack. You will not be able to stop the gas supply, so before you start sawing, you need to find a way to connect the pipe. It can be any hose with a suitable diameter. When you find such a hose, you need to rinse it, dry it and cut it to the required length. Then you can start sawing off the damaged section of the tube. After deleting it, be careful as petrol will flow out. You can close the hole with your finger. Try to put the hose on the tube as quickly as possible. The deeper the hose is pulled, the more reliable the structure will become. Pull the hose tightly at the attachment points using a wire or string.

If the hose connecting is damaged gasoline pump With carburetor, then you will have to tinker a little longer. Basically, you will have to remove the section of the broken hose, just like with the pipe situation, but it will take much more effort to cut such a hose. Firstly, it is more difficult to get to it, and secondly, it is made of durable rubber with nylon threads, it can only be cut with a very sharp knife.As in the case of the pipe, the hose should be cut after finding the object to be connected, it can be a metal or plastic pipe, the main thing is that the pipe material does not dissolve with gasoline. The tube is inserted inside the hose, after which the edges of the hose should be pulled together with wire.

Try to move as carefully as possible after such a repair. gas line... Seams can come loose from strong rolling and vibration. You should also not drive at high speed. Once you get home, immediately replace your broken pipe or burst hose. It is best to contact a service station for help.

Highways are not always perfect, and it is difficult to insure against breakdowns while driving on them. The most common problem is rubber breakdown, but this malfunction is not so difficult to fix, especially if you have a spare wheel with you. Much more questions arise when you need to repair the gas tank with your own hands, if it suddenly turned out to be broken and fuel began to pour out of it. It is not always possible to call a tow truck, and in some situations it is not necessary at all, since any driver with the appropriate knowledge can repair the gas tank on the spot with the help of improvised means.

• The smell of gasoline began to be clearly felt in the car;
• The fuel level needle began to approach zero faster than usual.

If you notice signs of a breakdown in the gas tank, stop the vehicle and turn off the engine. After that, carefully inspect the gas tank for damage and breakdowns. When they are found, you will need to act, depending on the specific situation. Below we give several ways to self-repair a fuel tank on the road.

The fuel tank is quite simple, and it is a reservoir that is filled with gasoline. In this case, the gas tank can be made of steel, aluminum, plastic or other materials. It is better to replace a broken gas tank with a new one, often inexpensive options can be found at various car "showdowns". However, if you are on the road, it is possible to repair the tank with your own hands in order to get to the place of maintenance or continue operating the machine until you buy a new part.

1. The breakdown in the tank, which must be repaired, must first be expanded to the diameters of the available bolt;
2. Next, a washer with a rubber gasket is selected for the bolt;
3. Next, you need to install a bolt through the neck of the fuel tank into the prepared hole and put a washer, a rubber gasket on it from the outside and tighten it with a nut.

Important: Choose rubber as a gasket that does not dissolve under the influence of gasoline. Do not use "raw rubber", which quickly deteriorates.

It should be noted that this method of repairing a gas tank is popular among truckers. Having closed the hole in the fuel tank in this way, you do not have to worry about its reliability. If it is not possible to replace the gas tank in the near future, it is recommended to remove the threads and paint over the joints to avoid corrosion. With the correct implementation of the patch, the gas tank can last for months or even years.

Find any free bottle, if there is none in the car, you can use the washer reservoir. Fill the container with gasoline and place in it the soft hose that comes from the gas pump. Please note that if you are using a bottle, it will need to be well secured so that it does not tip over during the trip. When everything is done, you can go to the service station.

Important: Before proceeding, make sure that there is no fuel left in the gas tank so that it does not spill on the road.

1. Cut out a small piece of thick fabric. If the fabric is thin, several layers can be folded;
2. Next, completely saturate the fabric with Moment glue or its analogue and apply it to the breakdown site;
3. Next, you need to wait 2-3 minutes until the glue dries;
4. When the fabric is firmly in place, treat it with nitro paint to minimize the possibility of fuel leaking through it.

Such a patch will help you get to the service center and carry out a full repair of the fuel tank.

Important: You should not change fabric to rubber for this type of emergency repair. When the car is moving, the rubber element will quickly peel off, while the fabric reinforced with nitro paint will cope with the task of sealing the fuel tank just as well.

1. The first step is to prepare the surface for applying the epoxy resin. To do this, carefully sand the area around the damage with sandpaper;
2. Next, mix the epoxy and hardener. If you need to heat them, you can put them on a warm engine;
3. Saturate a cloth with the resulting adhesive base and attach it to the damaged area on the gas tank.
4. Wait until the adhesive base dries.

Video (click to play).

In many private car services, gas tanks are restored in this way, since it is quite reliable. The fuel tank can be safely operated for several years after such a repair.

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