DIY brake hose repair

In detail: do-it-yourself brake hose repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A working braking system is a guarantee of your safety! I spoke about this for a long time, in one of my previous articles. Today I am no less sure of this, and I want to talk about brake hoses, or rather, how to replace them with a VAZ 2115.

Only regular maintenance and monitoring of all components of the braking system can provide confidence that the brakes will not fail at one most inopportune moment. One of the most important components of the brake system (TS) is the line through which the brake fluid (TZ) is delivered to the brake cylinder and calipers. Violation of the tightness of one of the hoses can lead to a malfunction of the vehicle, as a result of which the TJ will leak out, and you will simply find yourself without brakes.

Replacement of brake hoses is regulated by each manufacturer differently, on average it is 3-5 years or about 100 thousand kilometers. However, all this is individual, hoses can fail earlier and later, it all depends on the operating conditions and the quality of the brake hoses themselves. It is necessary to visually inspect the hoses from time to time, and the entire vehicle as a whole, this is the only way you can avoid troubles on the road.

The appearance of microcracks on rubber hoses or metal pipes is a reason to immediately replace the brake hose or part of the damaged line. Damage to the tightness of the line manifests itself in different ways, one thing will always be the same - the absence of brakes, that is, pressing the pedal will fail, and the car will not stop. Hose damage can also be detected from a wet track after long periods of parking.

Video (click to play).

In my article today, I will tell you about how to replace brake hoses on a VAZ 2115 at home.

New brake hose (s);
Special key for removing brake pipes with a double clamp “9x11”;
A set of keys (8, 10 15);
Adjustable wrench;
Jack;
WD-40 liquid.

The first step is to establish the location of the damage and decide which of the hoses you need. In this case, the front brake hose burst. Then we buy everything we need and get to work. The photo shows the place of rupture (damage).

We start by ripping off the wheel bolts while the car is on four wheels, then jack the side we need, unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel.

We process the WD-40 bolts and wait for the liquid to eat away the rust, and will allow you to easily unscrew the connection.
Next, we unscrew the hose connected to the metal brake pipe. Using the key on “15”, we hold the tip of the hose, and with the other key on “10”, carefully unscrew the union of the brake pipe. It is important here to be as careful as possible, as it is very easy to rip off or “lick off” the edges. If the nut does not give way, use a special brake hose wrench. Such a key allows you to tighten, making it more firmly engaged between the key and the threaded connection.

After the connection is unscrewed, the tube should be plugged with something suitable in diameter, this is necessary in order to avoid leakage of the TAS.

Now, using the “15” key, unscrew the hose fitting connected to the brake cylinder. A copper ring is installed between the cylinder and the fitting, which it is desirable to replace, but if it is in order, then you can do without it.

Then we assemble in reverse order. However, it is too early to put an end to this. Before enjoying the work done, it is necessary to bleed the brake system in order to expel all the air that has entered the vehicle.I will not tell you how to bleed the brake system, you can read about this in one of my previous articles - here is the link to this article

After bleeding the brake system, we check the tightness of the joints and the level of TJ in the system. Next, we check how everything works. I warn you, do not rush to accelerate strongly to test the brakes, anything can happen, if the brakes fail, you can make an accident and damage your own or someone else's car. First check how everything works somewhere in an uncrowded place at low speed, if everything is ok, check how the car will behave on an empty track.

That's all for me, thank you for your attention, until we meet again at the VAZ Repair. If you liked this report, share the link to the publication with your loved ones on social networks, this will help the development of our project.

The order of work performed to replace the brake hose.

The braking system plays an important role in the operation of any vehicle. If at least one of its elements is faulty, then this can lead to disastrous consequences. Therefore, one should be especially vigilant to monitor the health of all elements of this system.

An important component of any braking system is the brake hose. Cracking and wear on brake rubber hoses is a common problem, and should be lubricated with silicone grease and checked periodically to prevent this. If there is any suspicion of a defect, you should immediately replace the brake hose, because its malfunction in the future can have a detrimental effect on road users.

Sequencing:

1. First of all, the vehicle should be prepared to perform the necessary operations. To do this, place it on a flat surface, install stops under the wheels on the side opposite to the suspended wheel.

For safety reasons, we install stops under the wheels.

2. Use a jack to raise the front of the machine. Place the car on the "blocks" for better stability. Remove the wheel using a wheel wrench.

To access the brake hose, lift the car.

3. Treat all replaceable fasteners and bolts of the brake system with a special penetrating lubricant. This will ensure that they are easily loosened. This work must be done in advance so that the grease penetrates deeper into the joints.

We will take care in advance by covering the threaded joints with this solution.

4. Using pliers, remove the retaining bracket from the body bracket brake hose. Holding it with a wrench 17 (so that the tip of the brake hose does not move), unscrew the brake pipe union using a wrench 10.

Using pliers, remove the bracket that secures the hose to the body.

5. Pull the brake hose out of the bracket. Make sure the brake pipe has a protective cap from the bleed nipple. If not, then brake fluid leakage is inevitable. Using a wrench 10, unscrew the fixing bolt of the bracket holding the brake hose and remove it.

Prevent brake fluid from escaping from the disconnected hose.
Install the rubber cap from the bleed nipple.

6. Use wrench 14 to loosen the brake hose mounting bolt and remove it.

We unscrew the bolt that secures the hose using a 14 wrench.

7. Installing a new hose should be done upside-down. It is also necessary to replace the copper sealing washers. Having installed a new brake hose, you need to bleed the brake system.

Bleeding brake systems:

1. To bleed the brake system, fill the brake fluid reservoir to the max level.

Top up the tank on the master brake cylinder with brake fluid.

2. Next, remove the protective cap from the fitting and put a transparent hose on it, and then lower it into the container where the brake fluid is located.This prevents air from entering the brake system.

It is imperative that after replacing the brake hose, bleed the system by removing the air.

3. To bleed the brakes, you cannot do without an assistant. He must press and hold the brake pedal. Ask an assistant to press the brake pedal all the way 3 times. In this case, you must unscrew the bleed fitting using the key 10.

We unscrew the bleed fitting with a key.

Trapped air will collect in the liquid barrel. After that, you need to tighten the union by repeating the operation again. You need to repeat until the air leaves the system.
4. As the air escapes, you will need to top up the brake fluid reservoir. Upon completion of this operation, screw the bleed fitting tightly, dismantle the tube, install the protective cap, and then install the wheel in its original place.
For bleeding, you need to top up with a liquid of the brand that is used in your automotive system.

As you can see, replacing the brake hose is no big deal. But this work also requires a serious and responsible attitude. Indeed, not only your life, but also those around you, depends on the quality of its implementation.
In the course of performing the work, you need to use attentiveness and caution. But personal qualities will not be enough - you also need to have certain skills. If you are unsure of your abilities, then contact the service station for help.

Anything can wait on the road ...

History with broken brake hose happened about 10 days ago.

I decided to go for a drive around the city at night because of the good weather, the drivers were playful, they chased, I also joined.
Passing the tram tracks to the intersection of Engels and Svetlanovsky, the pedal went to the floor and in order not to moor into the cars standing at the traffic lights, I had to fly the intersection to the red one in the opposite lane 🙂
After which it successfully slowed down, not resorting to grinding the curb with discs.

When one circuit does not work, the ABS automatically stops working and, with sharp braking, the car turns)

It happens that during the operation of the car, for various reasons, it is required replacement of brake pipes. Sometimes the repair and replacement of these parts should be carried out not even because of a breakdown, but for preventive purposes. Why this happens and how to independently repair the brake line, we will try to explain in detail just below.

The pipes and hoses of the brake system are used to transmit the force that flows with the help of the fluid from the pedal to the master cylinder, and then to the workers, which are mounted on the supporting discs. Tubes are connected to cylinders and distribution units using cone couplings.

It should be noted that it is quite possible to conduct an external examination of the state of the brake system on your own, however, in the event of any malfunction, it is better to seek help from a specialized center, where diagnostics and qualified repair of the car system are carried out, as well as fluid replacement.

According to the manufacturers' recommendations, the performance check of all vehicle components should be carried out in accordance with the routine maintenance schedule. The brake system is diagnosed once every 2 years (or every 50,000 km). Rubberized hoses must be replaced after 125,000 km, regardless of their technical condition.

The main malfunctions of the brake system:

a significant increase in the braking distance of the vehicle;
when you press the pedal, a pulsation appears and a squeak is heard;
large free travel of the brake pedal;
fluid leak;
overheating of brake drums;
when you press the pedal, the car starts to move to the side;
cracking brake hoses;
uneven pad wear.

How to repair a damaged line yourself? Repairing brake pipes requires a certain amount of experience from the driver and the ability to use locksmith tools. But not everything is so complicated. The following is a step-by-step description of the process of restoring the damaged system.

First you need to unscrew the tube from the brake cylinder or caliper.
With the help of a pipe cutter, the pipeline is cut in the right place.
The damaged area is removed.
The edge of the tube is degreased with gasoline.
Clamp the tube with pliers so that its edge protrudes by about 50 mm.
With the help of a drill inside the tube, a chamfer is removed at the edge.
At the end, you need to remove the remnants of the shavings.
Next, a fitting is pushed onto the tube.
The end of the tube is inserted into a special device and expanded.

The repaired pipeline is purged with compressed air and connected to the pipeline using a special adapter. Now all that remains is to bleed the brake system, and the car is ready for further operation.

What you need to pay special attention to during a visual inspection of the brake system:

metal tubes should not have obvious mechanical damage and various deformations;

rubberized hoses must be flexible without cracks or breaks. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the termination of the hoses in the ferrules. Do not allow fuel and lubricants to come into contact with them;

the fastening brackets must be in satisfactory condition;

at the junction of the pipes with the master cylinder, tank and line, no liquid seepage is allowed.

The simplest repair work can be done even at home. For instance, replacement of the front brake hoses is carried out in the following sequence:

Park the vehicle on a level surface.

Remove the front wheel.

Unscrew the brake line union, while holding the hose with a wrench so that it does not turn.

Remove the bracket and remove the tip from the bracket.

Unscrew the hose connection from the slave cylinder.

Unbolt damaged hose from brake pipe.

Screw in a new hose.

Further assembly of the system is carried out in the reverse order. Make sure that the hose is not kinked. To control this, a longitudinal colored strip is applied to it. In the same way, the hoses on the rear axle are replaced. Image - DIY brake hose repair

It is not allowed to operate the vehicle with cracks on the brake hoses. Failure to comply with this rule can lead to brake failure and a serious accident. However, what to do in situations where the problem is discovered far from home? Finding the right brake hose at your local auto parts store is not possible for every vehicle.
It is worth noting that the repair described below allows you to "on your own" get to the house or the place of repair. However, the considered technique does not allow to fully restore the required characteristics of the part. Therefore, the replacement of the repaired hose should be carried out as soon as possible.

To restore the integrity of the brake hose, you must have a certain amount of raw rubber, several liters of gasoline, access to an oven or an open fire, and a supply of brake fluid. In addition, a set of tools must be available to remove the damaged part. As a rule, a jack, a wheel wrench, and 13 and 10 mm keys are sufficient. However, the exact set of keys required depends on the model of the faulty vehicle.
The repair begins with hanging and removing the car wheel on the side of the fault. The removed wheel is usually placed under a sill or brake disc. This measure avoids injury when the vehicle falls from the jack. After that, the brake hose fittings are unscrewed, and the hose itself is completely removed from the car.The openings of the brake pipes must be closed to avoid significant loss of brake fluid and complete airing of the system.

The dismantled hose is thoroughly washed in a separate container with gasoline, foreign inclusions (sand, dirt) are washed out of the cracks. After that, the hose is dried, using fine sandpaper, they pose a risk, degreased with gasoline or acetone.
The repair solution is made by dissolving pieces of raw rubber in a container with gasoline. In this case, the composition should be thick enough. The hose is treated with the obtained substance three times. In this case, between the imposition of layers of rubber, the part should be dried for 20-30 minutes.
The fully processed and pre-dried hose is placed in an oven heated to 120 degrees. The exposure time is about half an hour, which will allow the process of vulcanization of the applied composition to be carried out.
In the absence of a stove, you can use an ordinary metal bucket. To do this, a gasket is placed on the bottom of the bucket, which allows the hose to be somewhat separated from the heated surface (any metal object or object made of heat-resistant materials of a suitable size). After that, a fire is made and a bucket is placed on it. The time required for vulcanization, in this case, will be about one hour.

As a result of the repair, the damaged hose should have a smooth rubber surface without cracks. The part must be cooled, and then installed in its original place. After installing the brake hose, the brakes must be “pumped” (squeeze air out of the brake system). Usually this manipulation is carried out together. However, in the absence of a partner, you can restore the brakes yourself.
For self-"bleeding" of the brakes, with the wheel removed, unscrew the bleed nipple of the brake cylinder and squeeze the piston until a drop of brake fluid appears from the nipple. After that, while holding the piston, the union is tightened. The procedure is repeated several times until the desired result is achieved. The quality of manipulation can be assessed by the following criteria:

When pressed, the brake pedal travels about half the distance to the floor and stops.
With prolonged pressure on the pedal, it does not smoothly sink below its normal position.
The car brakes normally, when braking it does not lead to the side.
There are no drips of brake fluid in the area of the hose and cylinder (drips that have arisen during the pumping process should be wiped off).

The brake system with a remanufactured hose is not able to withstand full loads. When driving, you should observe enhanced safety measures, avoid sudden braking, keep a considerable distance in front of the vehicle in front, be ready to apply emergency braking using auxiliary techniques.

The latest KIA ceed models suffer from brake hose disease due to their premature death.
Tritely ran into a snowdrift, the brake hose bent and began to snot. The original issue price is five rubles / piece. and wait 2 weeks. Holidays NG.

Further, it is simply the process of restoring old ones to a new RVD and at the same time the reason why it failed.

Actually, here it is the original brake sleeve, then there will be a couple of them.

In photo 2, what is clamped in a vice has a non-collapsible Climp design, that is, a disposable one, where the fitting is an integral part of the crimp sleeve.
What is a disposable design!
But in our kingdom-state, everything that is disposable becomes reusable, but with proper execution and good equipment, it was not for nothing that I graduated from a technical university.
I must say right away that this cannot be done on the knee.

You can saw it off by the Bulgarian's wife, or it can be done on a band saw, in the latter case, the parts will not need to be adjusted before Argon welding.

Why it is impossible to cook with an electrode: during welding, the slag forms micro-shells that become oily channels and under pressure the hydraulic fluid will squeeze out, in the photo it is in oil, constantly flowing while lying down and sawn - so that it would be clear:

Next, we weld two halves: a fitting with a nipple with a shank with a lock for a standard hydraulic coupling

We select a high-pressure hydraulic hose, in our case, a 1SN-6mm high pressure hose designed for Pwork = 225bar is suitable, which will be enough for the car's brake system. Whereas the burst pressure has a 4-fold margin.

Then we crimp the prepared fittings in a hydraulic press and check with gauges the process of crimping the product

At the exit, we get such a product that meets the requirements for pressure, elasticity, and should not be a rigid structure. In addition, we get the opportunity to re-replace the hose without welding operations, which I doubt a steel cord is stronger than a piece of thick rubber from the original sleeve.
Of the minuses, we have a longer sleeve compared to the original, in view of the design features of hydraulic couplings and standard fittings, taking into account welding work. Its length is adjusted downward by bending the steel tubes.

Hello, friends. I need your help. I was engaged in the suspension and there was a need to remove the brake caliper. The repair was long, several days, so the battery was discharged and I decided to run the engine a little, and then stop using the energy of the battery (music, light bulb). I started it without a second thought and with the drive belt I rubbed the rubber hose at the brake caliper to the sheath. In appearance, she did not suffer much, but still. Replacing the hose can be costly in the worst case, so I want to assess the situation and take action if possible. There were thoughts of smearing the rubbed place with sealant and wrap it tighter with something, and then also attach a collar. In general, if there are any options, then I will listen to them with pleasure.

2014-05-10 18.52.27.jpg 154.28K 1 Number of downloads:

Judging by the section of the hose, it seems to me that there is still a reserve

zavodksie-tormoznye-shlangi-v-razreze.jpg 198.37K 1 Number of downloads:

Post has been edited by Vitaliy: 10 May 2014 - 19:37

The only sensible option is to buy a new hose. I have been working as a driver for more than 20 years, I have never heard of hydraulic brake hoses glued, even on the clutch.

Judging by the cut of the hose, it seems to me that there is still a reserve zavodksie-tormoznye-shlangi-v-razreze.jpg

I remembered a couple of proverbs: "where it is thin, there it breaks" and "kroilovo leads to the popalov" change the hose and sleep well,

The only sensible option is to buy a new hose. I have been working as a driver for more than 20 years, I have never heard of hydraulic brake hoses glued, even on the clutch.

I also did not see the glued hoses, but the camshaft split into two parts, and then welded and installed in place, I personally saw (my brother, my cousin, either put everything on welding or on poxipol :-))

I will change if recovery is impractical maneuvers. There is a struggle in me.It seems that I did not wipe it so deeply, but it seems that it is somehow stupid to restore the hose.

if you ever want to fly into someone's ass or something good into a wall, because of a suddenly torn hose, then glue.

Post has been editedpjv: 10 May 2014 - 20:18

Hello, friends. I need your help. I was engaged in the suspension and there was a need to remove the brake caliper. ...

Theme renamed - clause 2.7 of the rules

On the topic, the top starter himself probably realized that he asked nonsense, forgive me for being straightforward, change the hose, judging by the photo, you can get there before replacing it, but you can't tell it live, if the cord is rubbed even a little bit, then the hose is dangerous, emergency braking it can not withstand

zy - recently my hose broke on a penny in 75 - went to the sidelines - so he was torn - those purely external rubber sheath was torn - braking to half - the pedal failed - I still managed to do a few strokes and so as not to enter the equal 4 colleagues, I went in the pines))))))) think to yourself, your life and health and your loved ones are priceless, but here is some kind of hose, even more so in St.

Post has been editedniv26: 10 May 2014 - 21:28

Resolved. Changing the hose. Do not judge strictly for a stupid question. The cord is frayed and there are some fluff in the photo. Hope it goes smoothly at both ends. Thanks to all.

There is a reinforced hose for the motard, 25cm longer than needed .. The problem is that it is bumped in several places. Heard that there are some kind of connecting fittings. Is it possible to somehow cut and reconnect the bad pieces?

In fact, such fittings or tips are commercially available, of course not in the public domain, but only at specialized firms, where they are doing exactly this work.

But there is only one feature - you cannot do this kind of work with your hands, you will need special mechanisms for crimping.

So, in order, what you need to do:

We carefully inspect your hose, look for signs of impact and, as a result, damage to the hose, note these damage.

With a sharp knife or special scissors, we cut out the damaged pieces and look at the remaining length, figure out how to connect these pieces so that the required length is obtained, and the connector does not interfere with the operation of the hose.

We select the necessary fittings for connecting two pieces of hose, taking into account that we need two different fittings for the connection - “female” and “male”, and also based on the diameter of the tube itself.

We insert the fittings into the cut end of the hose and press them using special equipment.

It turned out two hoses with about the following fittings at the ends:

We connect two pieces of hose into one piece and check the connection point under pressure, if everything is normal, then it can be operated.

We need: a fitting that we screw to the brake machine, a spacer sleeve (olives),

bases (an olive is inserted into them and a fitting is screwed in). We cut off the hose in the place we need. Remove the top protective layer 2-3 centimeters. We put the base on the hose and insert the olive between the braid, so that the hose goes into the olive and rests on the rib. We insert the fitting. We wrap it with electrical tape. We stretch the heat shrinkage on the base. We warm it up. You can use a lighter. We get the connection we need. A set of these are sold in car dealerships.

We communicate, share experience in the operation and maintenance of VW Transporter / Caravelle / Multivan, help other participants to understand the problems that have arisen.

# 1 Post Glory01582 »03 Apr 2016, 15:10

# 2 Post madein70 »03 Apr 2016, 18:47

The safety of the driver and passengers of the vehicle directly depends on the performance of the braking system. After a certain mileage, its components wear out, one of which is the caliper. Nevertheless, it is quite possible to repair the brake caliper, although most often it fails due to the acidification process of the guides or pistons.

Why is this dangerous in practice? In the event of a malfunction of this unit, the brake pads begin to wear out unevenly. The same goes for brake disc wear. As for the pads, there may be increased wear, for example, external to internal. Uneven wear indicates that the pistons are pressing too much on only one of the pads, while the other does not take part in the process. An urgent repair or replacement of the caliper is required, without waiting for it to finally jam.

This unit of the brake system may break down due to improper maintenance, or due to insufficient quality. The main reasons why caliper repair may be required are as follows:

improper operation, which is associated with filling the guides with poor-quality grease - because of this, the boot swells and later "sours";
in the future, repair of the brake calipers may be necessary due to the ingress of moisture on the guide, which leads to a breakthrough of the boot;

another reason is the piston itself, the body of which is also vulnerable to moisture ingress;
a poor-quality working fluid (brake) can corrode the piston from the inside if the concentration of water in it exceeds the norm.

Video advice for repairing a caliper with your own hands:

It's easy to find them - these are special bolts that are attached to the lugs of the case. They need to be changed as soon as the foci of the appearance of corrosion become noticeable. The repair process will look like this: we unscrew the old guide, and insert a new one in its place.The main thing is not to forget about high-quality lubrication, as well as check the condition and tightness of the anthers - they should not have cracks or breaks. Image - DIY brake hose repair

The return movement of the piston in this unit is provided by the cuff. Firstly, it creates tightness, and, secondly, it acts as a kind of spring. When the piston moves, it undergoes slight deformation, but then returns to its previous state, slightly pressing it into the housing. Determining the malfunction is quite simple - if you hang out the wheel, then it should rotate freely as soon as you press or release the brake pedal. There should be no traces of overheating on the discs themselves, otherwise you will need to repair the caliper yourself.

When performing a visual inspection, we must make sure that there is no noticeable difference in thickness in terms of the size of the outer and inner pads. The piston should move so that, when pressed, it easily sinks into its body. Its surface should not have visible traces of dirt or particles of corrosion. You also need to conduct a superficial examination of the anther and make sure its integrity.

We pass on to the description of the repair itself. The algorithm will be something like this:

In short, as soon as you are faced with overheating or uneven wear of the brake pads, odors and noise, you can be sure that the performance of the braking system will not be the same. Pay immediate attention to the condition of the caliper and, if necessary, refer to the above instructions for repairing the caliper.

Replacing brake pipes: what determines the safety of your car
When do you need to replace the brake pipes and other system repairs?
We make a brake pipe ourselves
How to repair brake pipes?
What should be considered?
How to repair a damaged line yourself?
Replacing the front brake hoses with your own hands

Leakage of brake fluid and depressurization of the entire brake system can be provoked by damaged pipes through which the brake fluid moves to each brake mechanism (wheel). If this happens, then the owner of the car will have to work on their replacement, which, as a rule, is carried out on a raised car.

The machine can be lifted with a jack and more bricks or other solid objects can be substituted so that you can get to the pipes and change them.But usually the car is taken to a car service where there is a lift, it will be easier to work this way. The procedure itself is not complicated, there will be more trouble with pumping the brakes, although this should not cause problems even for an amateur car owner-beginner.

According to the manufacturers' recommendations, the performance check of all vehicle components should be carried out in accordance with the routine maintenance schedule. The brake system is diagnosed once every 2 years (or every 50,000 km). Rubberized hoses must be replaced after 125,000 km, regardless of their technical condition.

The main malfunctions of the brake system:

- a significant increase in the braking distance of the vehicle;

- when you press the pedal, a pulsation appears and a squeak is heard;

- large free travel of the brake pedal;

- overheating of brake drums;

- when you press the pedal, the car starts to move to the side;

- cracking of the brake hoses;

- uneven wear of the pads.

Brake pipes often fail due to:

- When the pipe has outlived its time. Also, we must not forget that the original pipes are metal, and sooner or later the metal will be covered with rust.

- During the repair of the brake system, the tube may break, crack, etc.

There is also a case when a car hits a stone, hits a wheel in a hole, a branch flies under the car, then the tube, if it is far from new, breaks.

The question arises how to fix it yourself without contacting a service station? For this You will need:

- brake pipe 4.75 (or 3/16 ″, popularly it is 5);

- a machine for expanding tubes;

- split wrench 8x10 or 7x11 (depending on which car and which fittings);

Anyone who has never rolled, of course, should practice.

Tube flaring options:

- the tube is rolled in the form of a fungus;

- the tube is rolled in the form of a cone.

How to understand where is what flaring? Most European cars are rolling with fungus, while Asian cars are rolling with a cone. The fittings also have their own shapes, although all foreign cars have 10x1 fittings. Brake fittings that are installed on European cars are not fully threaded and are rolled with fungus. In full threaded brake fittings, the tube is rolled by a cone. After you have determined which fitting you have, proceed to expanding the tube.

We take a bar for clamping the tube from the kit, if the tube is 4.75, we clamp it in the place where 3/16 ″ is written (this will be 4.75). The tube should protrude approximately 4 mm.

Next, insert a “stamp” into the tube. This is done in order to get the fungus at the end of the tube, and we expand the tube.

If you need to make a cone on the tube, then the steps are as follows. After you have made the mold, take out the “stamp” and flare the tube without it with the tool that you prepared in the kit - the flaring vise.

What are the advantages of self flaring? Probably something that will come in handy more than once, and the fact that you are doing for yourself and for yourself, which means that you will approach the issue of brakes seriously.Also, the pluses include the fact that without knowing the specific length of the brake pipe for your car, you can simply acquire a certain length and flare it on site.

The disadvantages are that you buy a tool at a time, unless, of course, you are engaged in machine repair.

Brake pipes are rarely changed.The need for this arises only if the machine has been in operation for a long time, in unfavorable conditions conducive to the development of corrosion, or in the event of any mechanical damage.

The condition of these units can be assessed on your own by looking under the car body, or by bringing your "iron horse" for inspection by the masters from the service center. According to the regulations, diagnostics of all components of the brake system should be carried out at least once a year, preferably at the end of the winter period. You can combine the inspection with the next oil change.

Rubber hoses on all wheel cylinders must be replaced, regardless of their condition, every 70-100 thousand km. mileage. The pipelines are replaced only when necessary.

To carry out the work, you will need the following tools:

- a set of wrenches for: “10”, “14”, “17”;

- brake fluid (to replenish the system).

The design of the braking system and the principle of its functioning are practically identical for all car models. Accordingly, the method of its restoration is also the same for all brands of vehicles.

All pipeline repair work can be carried out on a repair pit, overpass or on a flat area by lifting the machine with a jack.

A set of pipes can be purchased at any auto shop. You can order a duct with a predetermined length, already bent in the required way, specifically for a specific car model. Or you can buy a universal copper line, and then independently give it the required shape and length. The latter option is more economical, however, and there is much more fuss.

Repairing brake pipes requires a certain amount of experience from the driver and the ability to use locksmith tools. But not everything is so complicated. The following is a step-by-step description of the process of restoring the damaged system.

First you need to unscrew the tube from the brake cylinder or caliper.

With the help of a pipe cutter, the pipeline is cut at the right place.

The damaged area is removed.

The edge of the tube is degreased with gasoline.

Clamp the tube with pliers so that its edge protrudes by about 50 mm.

With the help of a drill inside the tube, a chamfer is removed at the edge. At the end, you need to remove the remnants of the shavings.

Next, a fitting is pushed onto the tube.

The end of the tube is inserted into a special device and expanded.

What you need to pay special attention to during a visual inspection of the brake system:

- rubberized hoses must be elastic without cracks or breaks. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the termination of the hoses in the ferrules. Do not allow fuel and lubricants to come into contact with them;

- the fastening brackets must be in satisfactory condition; at the junction of the pipes with the master cylinder, tank and line, no liquid seepage is allowed.

The simplest repair work can be done even at home. For example, the front brake hoses are replaced in the following sequence: