DIY renault scenic torsion beam repair

In detail: do-it-yourself renault scenic torsion beam repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Yes, this is perhaps the most frightening knot in used Renault where many owners are afraid to climb on their own. And this, I can tell you, is not without thoroughness.
I will try to describe everything in great detail, these are not records of replacing candles and oil ... there are almost no reports (and especially sensible ones).
! Think 100 times if you can do everything yourself and have at hand all the necessary tools (press).

My example is trash)))) In winter (-12), on the street, literally on my knees, for 12 hours.

The condition of my silencers is almost complete wear and tear (they kept a little in the cage), the rubber simply shrank and gave not frail "idle" suspension moves === thereby killing brand new shock absorbers ((((((and increasing the risk of breaking torsion bars.

Image - Do-it-yourself Renault Scenic torsion beam repair

I bought "Sasik" - there are a lot of fakes now, I hope I didn't "hit"

Let's go according to the timing of the works:
(! I did not take any measurements before parsing, because I am 100% sure that the torsion bars were rearranged during the wear of the silencers = DO NOT DO IT, lift up the backside for a couple of Santas, the load on the torsion bars increases ... comfort does not improve by a single gram)

one). Raise the rear of the car completely. We loosen and disconnect the lower attachment points of the shock absorbers. (The upper ones can be left alone for now - in the fully hanging position of the mesh

2). Trying to loosen the four nuts securing the beam to the body. Do not feel sorry for the "vadashki" + metal brush. I was lucky, the nuts went ... if the bolts turn, I will have to disassemble the floor of the salon plastic at the back to get to the bolt heads = extra work.

3). Disconnect the connectors from the ABS sensors (! Did not disconnect the battery - after assembly, the error does not light up, the system is working.)
+ Try to unscrew the rear brake circuit. I chose the option of disconnecting the fittings from the flexible hoses (! I did not stand on ceremony - the system elements were replaced, including the tubes ... I did not like them, well, since I got in, why not)
Disconnect the parking brake cable (so as not to remove the drums, disconnect it from the lever bar under the bottom). I rolled out the beam along with the cables.

Video (click to play).

4). We completely unscrew the nuts that hold the rear strut together with the beam (It is called differently, and the stabilizer, and the rod ... for me, the usual rectangular strut).

5). Having completely disconnected the rear brake circuit, unscrew the remaining two nuts securing the beam relative to the body. I did not drive the bolts into the cabin, but carefully removed it.

6). (! An important point is to measure the distance between the centers of the holes in the levers) = This will be needed when assembling and easily installing the moved beam back.)
We proceed to the most disgusting - knocking out the torsion bars from the landings in the levers and the central bushing. * Already a year ago I tried to knock out the torsion bars with a reverse hammer ... through the threaded holes at the ends of the torsion bars (M10x1.5) = they are sitting dead.

He warmed up the central sleeve with a small blowtorch, and then with a sledgehammer, simply hitting the levers, he dropped the levers along with the torsion bars and the remnants of rubber from the holders of the silent blocks.

7) .Preparation of the beam for pressing in new silent. Since in my case the outer part of the silent blocks was almost completely separated from the metal - the outer rings remained in the lug housing. I made cuts with a simple hacksaw for metal (loosening the fit) = took them out easily.

(! They can be taken out only "towards themselves" ... for a photo, moved inward). + Seeing a couple more cuts on the lug housing = I realized that they had changed more than once.

! One moment remained “off-screen” ...I don’t have a press, I had to send an assistant to a mutual friend to extract the old silent bushings from the levers of the torsion bars and internal bushings.
The torsion bars gave in at low pressure, but the question is, how to get the bushings of the old silent blocks? We found a relatively easy and quick way = inserted a nut of a suitable diameter (any) inside the sleeve, scalded it ... and, like the torsion bar, squeezed it down (already having a fulcrum, and not just a hollow tube).

eight). We press new torsion bars into the beam lugs. There is no positioning, solid rubber - without marks and other things. Used a regular self-made screw press (long bolt + washers + nut). Smeared with lithol for ease of planting.

9). VERY important point, leverage insertion.
-It is important to plant the lever relative to the beam as accurately as possible. So that in a static state (when the car is lowered on wheels) the silent blocks are as relaxed as possible (without twisting and other things - which leads to their short life).
-It is important to observe the distance parameter for the fastening holes of the bolts (we measured this immediately when removing the beam)
-It is important to observe the uniformity of pressing the right and left levers (in order to exclude the displacement of the rear track relative to the front).
I came across 50/50 opinions ... There is a manual drawing ... and the text does not correspond to the scheme:

Because I have a mechanical engineering education and I am familiar with drawing from and to ... following the law of drawing and building diagrams: always the dimension is taken along the axial lines, and not from the supporting surfaces. I did it as I thought it was right = then I'll arrange a check for myself (see the end of the post). Right or wrong - decide for yourself.
I measured the given axial distances with a simple bar with a movable element ("in Russian" = a regular wooden bar with a perpendicularly screwed-in self-tapping screw adjusted to a length of 37 mm.) in the desired position, pressed the lever onto the inner sleeve of the silent block, all the same in a screw way.

10). Take a little break from the volume of information
I didn’t like the rear brake pipes - they were rusty, seized… I took a simple path: I put new working cylinders, tubes (80 cm on the left; 75 cm on the right). Satisfied .

eleven). The beam is ready for installation on a car and subsequent clearance adjustment.
! In order to check myself (I mentioned above) I put marks with a marker on the lugs of the beam and the levers themselves = the silent blocks are MAXIMUM free (do not experience any load).

12). Observing (when pressing in the levers) the distance between the holes for the fastening bolts = the beam fell into place without any effort.
The assembly is carried out mirrored to the disassembly process. I clamped the nuts securing the beam to the body without a torque wrench ... by hand force (I used a meter-long knob from the firm "Force").
I chose the fastest and most affordable option for adjusting the clearance. Without worrying about making a "semblance of the original" screw strut (fixed from the top mount to the bottom) ==== it takes a lot of time to remove the shock absorbers, install the stretch, install the shock absorbers ... NAX.
Sawed wooden blocks of different lengths. For the pivot points, I used the trunk floor surface and a screwed-in bolt in the lower shock absorber mount.

pay attention to this photo and the photo below through one!

Why such delays in length = fatigue of the torsion bars themselves. Observe the factory settings for adjustment - really only on new torsion bars or on cars with the age of 5 years)))).

! IMPORTANT, I asked you to pay attention to the difference in the photos above ... ERROR = the torsion bars had to be inserted (not into the slots - just put them in) before the beam was clamped to the body ... The thresholds do not allow you to either remove or insert the torsion bar completely into the mounting holes.
I had to re-squeeze the fasteners, lower the beam, throw in the torsion bars, again clamp the beam = VERY time and mood kills.

thirteen)! IMPORTANT, the adjustment should be made with the upper mount of the shock absorbers released.
All spline joints of the beam were greased with “graphite”. The torsion bars were inserted into the landing sites by hand (without a hammer).
It may seem that the backside is too raised - this is the illusion of photography = normal height.

Remember the marker marks on the relaxed silencer beam? = Vehicle on wheels, tank two-thirds full ...

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Renault Scenic 1 - replacement of torsion bars and rear beam silent blocks.

How to replace silent blocks and adjust the rear suspension on Renault Megane

How to change a torsion bar in a 4-torsion beam Renault Kengu - Auto channel Vovka-62

What are the colored markings on the torsion bar?

Another question. How was the muffler removed? It rests against my bumper. I will remove the bumper. is that enough?

Yes, it was one-piece from the resonator to the muffler, and previous repairmen cut it in the parking brake area. It was necessary to cut closer to the muffler.

The bumper does not need to be unscrewed to remove the muffler. Something you have there nakhimichino.

I have a similar repair + I also want to remove the tank. You put wheels under the sills. Did I understand correctly that the car is on the front wheels and there are wheels with a board placed in the area of the rear passenger's feet and that's it? It turns out that the ass is completely hanging?

I have a Renault 19 beam closed, the silent blocks are normal and the 2 needle bearings are worn out, so that the torsion bar in the center should be disconnected, you need to beat the lever in order to separate it into two parts?

so it is a closed beam and a connection inside

Sergey Karpov needs to be heated. There is nothing to do without a burner, you will suffer for a long time.

Tell me, what do the bolts hold the beam, if the family breaks, be sure to look for it?

I selected Sergey Karpov according to a broken sample, but definitely not the original. On top, so that the bolts do not rotate, there is a mortgage plate that holds the bolt heads. To get the bolt, you need to remove the plastic in the cabin. I don’t remember exactly, but it seems that the seats were even removed. Wake up the bolts, see that they are not from raw metal. If I'm not mistaken, they seem to be red-hot.

Thank you, otherwise they told me that there are some special bolts

Sergey Karpov if you mean the bolts for attaching the beam to the body, then 2 pcs. there are no relatives and everything walks well.

I hope the wheel bearings are not pressed in this way. Who presses on the inner cage and presses the outer one? First it was necessary to press it into the beam.

How often do you need to repair the rear beam of a Renault kangoo?

2203 wheels have become a house or there is a knock in the rear suspension, then it's time. There are no regulations there. Neither the number of kilometers nor the time.

The correct Mouzon plays at cha

Alexander Volkov is a radio)))

How did you press it, didn’t take it off, the tape ran out?

Th, how to unscrew the nuts also need to be removed :)))

Vasya, show me how you shoot the video and press it, it's not very convenient for one. the more I explained how and how I pressed it.

The machine (Citro Picasso 2000) sank, its hind legs tucked unevenly and + the house began to cling to the body. Found a garage cooperative () came done (with small blots on rusty parts) now the back of the car is staked! They say it will work out. I would like to hear your opinion. For me, so complete nonsense. Loaded the car 200kg. right in the trunk of 2 boats and a motor. anchors. and other weights. I slowly ride on the waves and bumps in the parking lot and try to wait until it “develops”. I would very much like to hear your opinion on this behavior of the rear suspension. Are the paws clamped on the toes, because instead of bearings, rolling bushings with grooves for lubrication + oil nipples for monthly oil pumping are pressed into the legs.

I won't tell you on Berlingo, but on Scenic a used beam of $ 70, it left for 6 months and the torsion bar burst. I think that it is still better to sort out your beam.

Thank you for your support, I am from Bobruisk, but now I live in St. Petersburg. It can be very easy to fool here. And I am very worried about the typewriter. By the way, I order used spare parts from Belarus, but I didn’t take the suspension, I’m afraid the “watch for panties” will come out, if not worse. Replacing bearings here in St. Petersburg on a beam 35-38t.r. at the officials. Everyone needs a means of survival, in other matters, as elsewhere in recent years.

I am from Belarus and I think that they will answer me in the same way: “I have to travel and get used to it”. But I would go to them and understand the place.

And further! Regardless of what is worth, bearings or bushings, without torsion bars, the levers should move easily on the fingers, without backlash and jamming. I think if, as they say, it will work in, then how does the suspension know to what state it needs to work in. It can be run in like this until the bushing or finger is worn out. I haven’t worked with bushings yet, but on bearings: if the suspension is oak, I have to climb there soon. And after the repair of the beam, no one has yet told me that the suspension has become oak, usually on the contrary, it becomes softer.

I think here! to undertake the same work yourself, or it is better to pay money.

Sanya Sergeich I did this work for the first time and everything about everything took about half a day. Just be patient, a torch and a puller.

sanya sergeich nothing complicated, if there is time and desire, then you can do it yourself

Before talking about the repair process itself, I would like to note that, in my opinion, it is important for a car enthusiast to decide before repairing his car in order to what resources are needed to carry out the repair.

Therefore, I would like to note the following: I did all the work alone, the car was parked in the garage, the garage did not have a pit or a lift. In addition to the sledgehammer on

5 kg, spanners and open-end wrenches, a 19 lengthened head for the beam bracket bolts, 4 stands, 2 jacks, tape measures, I also needed: a drill, hacksaws for metal and wood, a chisel, a 3-legged puller with a maximum grip of 150 mm, universal tool for pressing out / pressing in silent / bearings, file, metal brush, molybdenum grease and approximately 32 hours spread over 5 days. Doing a similar job for the second time, I think I would have done it in half of the specified time.

A week before the scheduled repair day, I started watering all the bolts and especially the torsion bars on the WD40. I don’t think it helped in getting the torso, although it’s better to use all the available opportunities to facilitate this process. Taking off the caps of the torsion bars, I was glad and got upset. One torsion bar was as good as new, while the other was covered in black foam of rust.

At the initial stage, it is important to measure the distance from the center of the bolt hole in the torsion bar to the ground, this is the H5 reference point for technical documentation. After replacing the silent blocks, this distance should be the same as before the repair.

On the first day of the repair, I loosened the rear wheel bolts, disconnected the battery, lifted the car with a jack and put it on the stands. The racks rested against the bracket for attaching the beam to the body in the area of the torsion bars, and a little further to the front end in the place where the crumb of the beam ended. He took off the rear wheels, climbed under the car and disconnected the ABS, brake pipes, unscrewed the shock absorber bolts and threw off the lower end of the shock absorber, and also threw off the parking brake rods, but not in the area of the regulator, but directly on the levers of the rear wheels with disc brakes. If it is not possible to throw off the parking brake rods right on the wheel levers, then you need to remove the piece of thermal protection and throw off the rods on the parking brake rod effort regulator.

Returning to the bracket for attaching the beam to the body, I jacked it up and began to unscrew the nuts, after which I removed the longitudinal rail and made sure that nothing prevents you from removing the rear beam.

The rear beam was removed as follows. I poured the WD40 bolts for lubrication, so as not to damage them, I installed those racks that supported the beam bracket in the area of the torsion bars lower by 2 cm. After that, I lowered the jack a little, which rested against the bracket itself. Due to the fact that the beam with the wheel disks slightly outweighs, a skew appears and the bracket just does not slip, so you need to go to the rear wheels and twitch on each side, when the bracket drops onto the rack, the process must be repeated gradually by removing the bracket from the bolts. Next, we pull the beam back from under the machine, alternately rearranging the racks on each side. I think the beam weighs 30-40 kilograms, so I had to sweat. The machine remains standing on those racks that were installed in front of the bracket, on which hTo avoid damaging anything, I used hard rubber pads between the body and the uprights.

Having taken out the beam, I made control measurements of the distances between the bolts of the brackets, brackets and the beam, and also marked the position of the torso relative to the bracket. On the first picture

1cm - but this distance is not critical, it is rather informative for the process of pressing in new silencers, but at the same time it is imperative to observe the distance between the bracket bolts - otherwise you will not put the beam back later. This the distance was 1268 mm - the same in the documentation.

Day two: I started to get the torsion bars. Having screwed the pin into the torsion bar, I put on a ring that rested against the bracket, then a washer and a nut. By turning the nut, the torsion bar is pulled outward. The right torsion bar came out like clockwork. The photo also shows that the silent is practically collapsed and I tore it out with my hands. When removing the left torsion bar, an unpleasant thing happened - the thread damaged by rust tore off.

After spending some time thinking about what happened, I took a drill and a 10mm steel drill, drilled out the old thread right on the spot, and cut a new M12 thread. After that, taking the M12 pin, I wanted to remove the left torsion in the above way, but there was an embarrassment - the thread pitch did not match. And most likely it was even for the better, because the new thread is also weakened and I would most likely have pulled it out, and it will be needed later to adjust the clearance by pulling out and rotating the torsion bars.

Leaving the left torsion bar, I decided to remove the outer ring of the silencer on the right side. I took a hacksaw for metal and made two cuts for the width of a chisel. Then I knocked out this section, and the ring itself came out easily.

Returning to the left torsion bar, I decided to get the end out of the central coupling. To do this, first knocked on the coupling and a little on the torsion bar itself, then inserted a chisel into the gap between the beam and the bracket and drove it there with hammer blows. This helped and the torsion bar began to come out of the central clutch. With a little tinkering, I took it out, and then removed the outer ring in the same way as on the right side.

Since I did not cut the inner pipe of the silent block, this made it possible to drill holes in the protruding piece and insert a stop there for subsequent extrusion from the beam bracket. It should be noted that I fiddled with this for the rest of this day and half of the next, and I fiddled with only one, and coped with the second in an hour.

In order to do it quickly, it is better to immediately take a hacksaw on wood and cut off the rubber - it interferes with drilling and installing the puller. Next, you need to drill a through hole by 5 mm, and then drill it by 10 mm and insert a suitable stop, I had 2 M10 bolts fit for this. In both cases, I heated the pipe with a burner - but I think it doesn't help much, only the rubber became like tar and got dirty - although I used a heating pad in both cases. Then you have to bang the pipe a couple of times to touch it - I think that was the most important thing! After that, holding it in a vice, I installed a three-legged puller. By the way, at this stage, it was necessary to remove the remaining rubber on the tube, since it interfered with the installation of the hooks of the puller. An adjustable wrench with a long handle is about 45 cm, since the effort must be applied well - turn the bolt until the tube starts to come out of the bracket.

Having pressed the inner tube of the Scienta out of the bracket, I started knocking out the torsion bar. I will not say that it was difficult - about 5-6 blows with a sledgehammer of 4.5 kg weights. It should be noted that I made the first 4 blows through an aluminum gasket 1 cm thick, while both the bracket itself and the gasket flattened a little and there was no sense. Removing the soft metal gasket, I hit right on the bracket and the torsion bar moved, with the second blow the torsion bar passed 80% percent to the exit. Holding the bracket in a vice, I finished it off with light blows on the opposite end of the torsion bar.

For successful knocking out, it is necessary not to use anything damping blow, be it a soft metal spacer or a non-rigid stop. From the blows, it crumpled somewhere about 2 mm, but this does not affect anything, you just need to trim the edges with a hammer and file to restore the edges of the slots. The torsion bar was not injured at all.

After nHaving cleaned the splines of both torsion bars and lubricated them with grease, I dealt with the second bracket.

The third day was spent mainly on pressing and installing the beam back. According to the documentation, it is necessary to maintain the distance between the upper plane of the bracket attachment and the center of the wheel axle of 37 mm.

I think this is easy to do by inserting the torsion bars according to the marks made - unfortunately I did not think to do so and measured this distance.

Read also: Cooler aqua work DIY repair

IMPORTANT: after I made this report I noticed one jamb with a 37 mm setting.
In the picture from the docks (see above), the distance between the centers of the torso and the rotation wheel, but the text says about the surface! I measured from the surface and this is probably an extra 2 cm.
A gross error in the angle of installation will be:
arsin (57 mm / 400 mm) - arsin (37 mm / 400 mm) = 8.19 - 5.30 = 2.89 degrees.
Not much - but silent will serve less!

The new silent was first pressed into the beam, then into the bracket. When pressing in, I dripped 1-2 drops of oil and smeared it on one of the surfaces for even pressing. However, distortions in the first third of the way still appeared, while it is important to level them with light hammer blows, and then slowly continue pressing. When pressing into the bracket, it is also necessary to periodically measure the distance of 1268 mm between the centers of the holes for the bolts. fastening. I managed to withstand it and the beam sat on place with no problem.

I connected back the brakes, ABS and the handbrake, but adjusting the fit and bleeding the brakes I stoppedAvil the next day.

Day four and fiveA: At first I tried to adjust the fit by measuring the length between the shock absorber bolts. Before parsing, I had 470mm. Having set the same distance, I put the car on the wheels and got a landing lower than necessary, and different from different sides - why I don't know, probably this method does not work or it is necessary to do specials. I will adapt it as in the dock.

Therefore, as described in one report, I cut out the spacers and inserted them between the wheel arch and the lower shock absorber bolt. At first, the spacer was 440mm - this is exactly the distance I intended before disassembling. The car sat in the same way, but still lower than 235mm between the ground and the center of the torsion bars - control point H5. Then I increased the strut to 450mm expecting 235mm - I got almost 240mm, but after a day's train this distance became almost 230mm. I stopped at a spacer of 460mm - while H5 became 237mm. I want to note that the torsion bars did not become according to the marks made before the analysis, but on both sides the difference was the same in 7 teeth.

One adjustment with removing the wheels, shock absorbers and pulling the torsion bars took about 1.5 hours. To pull out the torsion bars, I used the inner tube of the bushings - sawing off about 2 cm, better less - 1.5 cm is enough. After the wheels are hung out, they need to be propped up or raised a little, then the torsion bars are easy to get - but not by hand, so the tube and bolts greatly simplify the adjustment procedure.

That seems to be all. I wish you a successful repair of your cars!

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I do not believe that this was written by a girl)))))))

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Video (click to play).

Hey, it's the 21st century, have you heard about transport companies or do you think you still have mammoths hunted with a cudgel. )))
I send spare parts to all regions of Russia, well, this is information for you to think about)

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