In detail: DIY repair of toyota rav4 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Many RAV4 II owners are aware of a sudden shifting problem. A lot of different information can be found on the forums on this issue, but in this post I want to share one of the solutions that I personally tried and it works. I will make a reservation right away that it was not me who did the work on the repair. I just made a visual analysis before and after work, and based on this analysis I made a description. The description is not an instruction to the solution; all your actions in the description are at your own peril and risk.
Description of the problem: I was driving, enjoying my life, and at one point, the box began to malfunction. Switch jerkily. At first slightly, then stronger. For example, starting from 3 speeds and then switching to a low speed with jerks, jerks to L, to D tachometer jumps up to 4000 rpm and constant switching between 2 and 3. I tried to reset the settings by disconnecting the battery terminal, it did not help. Dexron is enough, no burning, color and consistency are fine. There are no errors in the self-diagnosis system. Sometimes the problem disappeared, drove for 10-15 minutes and appeared again. Toyota RAV4 II 2001 left-handed American.
Solution: Repair ECU (block 89661-42820). I think, most likely, the wizard collected (did not alter) some settings. The block was “stitched” without a car. I can 100% assure that the master did not use any programmers. I am sure of a banal memory replacement, that is, the old memory microcircuit is replaced with a clean new one.
After opening the block, I realized that there was no alteration, but the memory chip was trite and replaced with a dozen resistors.
Video (click to play).
1.The microcircuits to which the conventional soldering technique was applied are highlighted in red circles.
2. Green memory microcircuit, which was replaced by the master.
Photos of individual elements of the front side:
1-4. A simple waste. 4 microcircuits TEN 811600 4623 1010.
5. Solder 2 resistors 221. (it is possible to replace 2 resistors with resistors with code 221).
6-7. Soldering 2 resistors R27
8. Soldering of 2 resistors with R27 code.
9. Soldering of 2 resistors with R10 code.
Photo:
10. Replacing the serial EEPROM memory chip with the ATMEL 120 25080NC 1A3059A chip:
Photos of individual elements of the back side:
12-13. Drop the resistors R330.
14. Solder 2 resistors 820 (replacement is possible)
15-16. Solder 2 resistors R330
... The description is based on a visual analysis of one of the ECU repairs. The description is not intended to be a repair manual. All actions in this description are only at your own peril and risk.
Regarding the behavior after renovation:
1. With a sharp start and reset of the gas pedal, that is, when the set of revolutions is large, but short in time, when the car has not yet accelerated enough and has not shifted to an increased gear, the tachometer needle drops from, for example, 3000 to 700-800 rpm, and then it returns to the current rpm for the current speed, for example 1200.
2. It was noticed when switching between 3-4 there is an increase in speed by 200-300 when switching speeds at speeds above 3000. But it was only a couple of times. A similar effect was observed when adapting the ECU. I drove 80 km since the repair.
before he began to rattle a little (not like before), as if rattling on small irregularities. I drove it for diagnostics, the front pillar on the left had leaked out, on the right it was in good condition, the pads were already worn out and the discs had to be grinded. Most importantly, the Korean or Chinese RBI silent tires, which changed about 11 thousand kilometers ago, were in excellent condition. The stub bushings are satisfactory, the stub struts (relatives) are not bad, but there was already a slight backlash. I did not grind the disks, I bought new ones but not the original.
Well, I drove almost 10-ku and the TO-1 flood came. As a result, the price tag of the OD stood at 11370, but in addition to the regulations, I replaced the cabin filter for 1200 with a non-original carbon. The dealer, in spite of the grumbling during acceptance, still presented it with a jar of paint))) so I will do the repair myself.
There are not many obvious jambs for 10 thousand, more precisely 1 - episodic overloads of the head unit. OD offers to make a video of how it happens, but unfortunately it happens when the phone is in the bag).
There are no obvious squeaks and rattles.
I wrote a long time ago, and I think it's time. Since at the moment the mileage is 42t.km across Sochi.
Before the pain, I want to write about Auto in general. Personally, I would now call Auto Toyota shit 4. Why so, I will try to tell you.
When I chose Auto for every day, I had simple requirements 1. Diesel (well, mountains and slopes in Sochi), 2. four-wheel drive (sometimes in the rain, front or rear wheel drive does not climb the concrete road up the hill), 3. Reliability (no time to spend on repairs), 4.
Well, the Heat is gradually leaving us. Cold creeps up to mother Siberia. Although Warmth clings with its last strength, but Cold looks with its icy grin, because the infection knows that its time has come and it's time to dump the Heat.
Siberians, anticipating this, go out into nature without exception, or try to finish their summer cottage affairs as soon as possible. And my family was no exception. We don’t have a summer cottage yet, so we don’t need to harvest the harvest, fortunately, and maybe unfortunately. So we decided to taste the wonderful, tasty and heady aroma, bread crusts fried over the fire.
One of the specializations of our stations is the high-quality repair of Toyota RAF 4. In our car services there is a specialized tool for repairing Toyota RAV 4. In the presence of consumables, oils and fluids necessary for routine maintenance. Within a couple of hours, from the main warehouse, we will bring any spare parts for repairing Toyota RAF 4.
Before starting repair of Toyota RAF 4, we will make free diagnostics suspension, engine or electrics (free diagnostics in case of repair at our service stations). We do not recommend doing DIY repairs on the Toyota RAV 4. Everyone must do their job. You need to entrust the repair of your car to those who do it every day.
The cost of repairing Toyota RAF 4:
It is recommended to carry out routine maintenance and maintenance of Toyota RAV 4 every 7-10 thousand km. mileage. This necessarily includes changing the engine oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. When carrying out scheduled work, we will make free diagnostics of all vehicle components and draw up a list of recommendations.
Every 60 thousand km. mileage, we recommend changing the timing belt with rollers, and if the motor is chain, then it is better to replace the chain every 120 thousand km. It is better to replace the candles every 40 thousand kilometers on gasoline engines and 100 thousand kilometers. mileage on a diesel engine. On Toyota RAV 4 models with adaptive throttle valve, it is recommended to clean and adapt the throttle valve every 60,000 km.
The most famous problems and malfunctions of Toyota RAF 4: - acidification of the caliper pistons with subsequent uneven wear of pads and discs; - unsuccessful design of the fuel filter - the car jerks, stalls, troit; - creak in the car interior due to low-quality plastic - gluing with anti-creak material; - a problem with the box - early failure of bearings and primary shaft oil seals; - in standard cooling radiators, leak at the junction with the side part; - tight steering wheel - a problem with the power steering of the car - a bulkhead or replacement, according to the result of diagnostics.
The degree of wear of the Toyota RAF 4 hub bearing can only be determined through diagnostics.
Warranty for all repair work Toyota RAF 4 - 6 months.
Soundproofing Toyota RAV 4 begins with the disassembly of the passenger compartment
What is the sound insulation of a car, today every second driver knows, if he does not know, then he heard from others or saw an advertisement.Toyota Rav4 from the factory, practically does not have it, so the owners have to pay for this service at the service station, or do it on their own.
Our car soundproofing instructions will help those who are used to saving money and taking care of their favorite car themselves.
Indeed, is this notorious soundproofing, about which they write and talk so much, is needed at all, now let's figure it out:
All units of the machine, especially the motor and gearbox, create noise and vibrations throughout the machine body
Noise - a loud extraneous sound that affects a person's hearing, annoying, distracting, interfering with listening to the radio or communicating
Extraneous sounds come from the external environment - cars and motorcycles rushing past without mufflers, screams, loud music from open windows and others
It has already been proven that the constant long-term effect of noise on the human body causes not only irritation, but also fatigue, decreased reaction, distracts and even causes heart disease - angina
Therefore, for the comfort and protection of your health, sound insulation is a must.
The wrong choice of materials for work is the main mistake of all beginners:
Friends, neighbors, local "kulibins" and simply "well-wishers" advise using linoleum or batting (old-fashioned methods and materials, when insulation has not yet been invented), they recommend building materials, because the properties are the same, and the price is much lower
Absolutely not considering that linoleum, for example, has a very low noise absorption rate, unlike car noise insulation, and it does not reduce vibration at all
Building materials need to be used wisely, some of them, for example, glass wool, are intended for inter-wall and inter-block applications, in the passenger compartment of the car all passengers and the driver will be combed and covered with a rash
Bitumen - will melt in the heat, thereby you can ruin your shoes and even clothes
In addition, exterior or inter-block building materials can be toxic and cause allergies.
Therefore, I advise you to purchase high-quality special materials for such a car, and get maximum comfort, silence and environmental friendliness.
There are a lot of materials produced today, you need only three or four types, with certain properties:
Vibration absorber - serves to absorb vibration, the bitumen base allows you to convert vibration energy into heat
Sound absorber - needed to suppress all types of noise, this is a porous material in which sounds die down
Noise reflector - allows you to reflect sound waves in their opposite direction, is used near power units and powerful noise sources
Anti-squeak material - serves to eliminate squeaks in the cabin, from the handles on the doors and ending with rubbing parts of the trim
The tools and materials you need to do it yourself:
Hard roller (roll vibration absorber)
Solvent (degrease the surface)
Screwdrivers and wrenches (disassemble salon)
Hair dryer - only construction (home too low-power, for heating vibration isolation)
Scissors and boot knife (for cutting materials)
A bucket of water and a rag may come in handy (wash off contaminated surfaces)
It is recommended for beginners to start with the hood lid and the engine compartment shield, there the work is easier, and at the same time you will practice:
Noise insulation of the bonnet noticeably reduces engine noise, plus it serves as good thermal insulation in the cold season
The effect of noise absorption is especially noticeable when the engine is running in traffic jams, or when idling.
First, the standard noise insulation is removed, photo below
Remove the standard noise isolation
Then you wash and degrease the metal surface
After that, cut out the vibrating material in the shape of the grooves in the hood lid.
Here, it is better to make templates out of cardboard to make it look neater.
It makes no sense to completely cover the surface with vibration isolation - only material consumption and, of course, money
Take a piece of vibration absorber, remove the protective film, warm it up with a hairdryer, then apply and roll it
It is recommended to roll from the center of the piece to the edges, so you get rid of air bubbles that reduce the effect of vibration absorption and absorb moisture, which leads to metal corrosion
A noise absorber is glued on top of the vibration absorber, or better a sound reflector
You need to glue the maximum surface in one piece, you get insulation and sound insulation for the car at the same time
After that, return the factory insulation back.
After washing and degreasing the motor shield, glue it with vibrating material to the maximum
Then a sound reflector, for a better effect, a foil-coated material is recommended for better heat resistance
When soundproofing the roof, you need a partner to warm up the material, feed and hold:
Work begins with removing the ceiling covering, here, too, a partner is simply necessary
Then the surface is cleaned and treated with a solvent
Put vibration material in the first layer (everything is as described above)
Note: On the roof, the recommended thickness of the vibration absorber is 2-3 millimeters, the sound absorber is no more than 5 millimeters, otherwise it will bend inward under the weight.
The second layer is a sound absorber (a sound reflector in the cabin will create an unnecessary echo)
After which, the sheathing returns to its place.
Roof processing with vibrating material
It is generally accepted that roof insulation works only in rain, this is a common misconception
The ceiling is a body element with a large area and low rigidity, so it vibrates well and retransmits sound vibrations from the external environment
The ceiling perfectly reflects sounds inside the cabin and transmits outside noise, which is especially noticeable at high speeds (when air resistance increases)
Doors in any car have the largest area, while they reproduce (transmit) noise from the street, standard noise insulation is usually absent or does not correspond to the required level, therefore:
Remove all handles from the door, then all decorative trim and panels
After that, wash the surfaces and treat them with a solvent.
After that, the vibrating material is applied to the door panel, through the technological holes, in small overlapping pieces
Processing the door panel through the technological holes
Advice: to protect your hands from scratches, it is recommended to work with cotton gloves.
Then, check that the cables and levers do not jam during operation, after which, glue the technological holes with vibrating material
On top, glue the door with a solid piece of noise absorber
Cover the entire surface of the door with a sound absorber
The door trim is also glued with a sound absorber from the inside
Glue antiskrip around the handles and in the places where the sheathing adheres to the metal
Many people forget how much the car's soundproofing weighs, and they glue the doors to the maximum, they also choose a thicker layer of vibration absorber
Which leads to their subsidence and damage to the hinges
The processing principle is the same for all doors
