DIY cauldron transom repair

Homemade cars, tractors, ATVs and ATVs

Restoration and repair of the boat "Kazanka": a detailed photo report of the work done.

After a long search, I found and purchased a boat "Kazanka" with wings, and, accordingly, decided to put it in order, repair, restore and paint it.

This is how the boat got.

He began to renovate little by little.

I covered the boat with primer - epoxy-based enamel (gray), then Mobihel metallic (blue-green) and varnished.

Poliki and benches were made of pine, then covered with Pinotext impregnation.

At the same time, he restored the trailer for the boat.

Now I'm looking forward to the opening of the motorboat season!

Homemade author: "071moroz". Nizhny Novgorod.

Andrey Apr 16, 2003

Andrey Apr 29, 2003

Andrey Apr 30, 2003

Andrey May 02, 2003

Once again, I carefully looked at these rivets, I don't know, but I am afraid to put those that we sell on the boat. Maybe there are some special ones for water?

Rivets need to be set, of course, aviation. If you still have the boat repair kit, it contains a bunch of rivets. At least you can see how they should look.
It is worth remembering that duralumin rivets are hard. The hardness is marked by the number of “pimples” on the insert head: the more there are, the higher the hardness. New rivets should have the same hardness as old ones (ideally).
It will probably be useful to remind that duralumin rivets need to be annealed before installation. You can control the temperature by rubbing the rivets of the household. soap. When heating, you need to monitor the color of the rivets. As soon as it turns brown, the heating must be stopped. Wash the rivets thoroughly from soap. After some time (about a day, it seems), the hardness is restored.

Self-extracting rivets tend to become loose due to material fatigue. So, it is very unreliable to put AMG rivets on the transom of a motorboat. Believe the “practice”, there are 200 transoms of these reworked pieces.
If you use self-extracting rivets, then it must be made of stainless steel. But the “riveter” here already requires another, more powerful and most likely professional one. A simple “riveter”, especially a Chinese one, will fall apart on the second rivet, or simply “gobble up” the sponges of the hood (checked).

So, definitely - STAINLESS. Or then you get so worried.

For sealing joints, it makes sense to use raw rubber "Sikafleks". It is really expensive, but buying one tube will last for a lifetime.

If the stiffening ribs have rotted in the transom board, then it makes sense to replace them with bakelized plywood, but do not forget that the thickness of the transom should not exceed 60mm, otherwise the motor clamp will simply not fit.
As a reinforcement, start up an AMG sheet (6mm.) From the outside, securing it through and through with stainless steel bolts (8mm), it is better to use body washers.
Before assembling, sheets of bakelized plywood must be coated with polyester resin (they will not dry out). Then I varnish this whole structure (for aesthetics).

Brief report on the repair of Kazanka M.
Last year I came across such a Kazanka at a boat station.
According to the owner, it does not flow and the bottom is even)). The price of a miracle is 8,000 rubles.
I didn’t find fault or haggle (the owner was 80 years old), I bought it. Brought home and then it began.

A detailed inspection with poking with a screwdriver and a hammer showed that under a thick, even layer of tar, the bottom is all in waves and dents, the keel pad rests on the same tar and on parole.

Also all rotten

The joy of the purchase began to fade

The transom is rotten, the kerchiefs all burst.

After some deliberation, I decided to fix it all the same.
I started by roughing the hull to metal

Seven sweats are gone, seven days have passed, 10 cans of BODY are gone.

Everything is done if desired. If you do not feel sorry for work, time and money, get down to business.

In fact, I cleaned it for a long time (about a month), tk. distracted by work and wife))
The paint was 5 or 6 layers and the resin was about 5mm.
The paint could still be removed wherever it went, but the resin is still an infection.

Looking ahead - the boat is already painted, the motor has arrived (thanks to Karas)

Further, I will not paint all the stages, because everything has long been chewed on this forum. I will answer all the questions.
I will continue in the evening ..

I had to change the keel pad completely.
I cut out strips 10X300cm and 10X140cm from AMG5 sheet. I put it on a polyurethane sealant, riveted with BRALO blind rivets (closed Al / Nerzh 5X12mm). I thought for a long time which rivets to use, but since I did everything alone, I decided to take a chance with fume hoods. They riveted, by the way, hard - the Chinese riveter was enough for 50 pieces. Then he fell apart)).
He pulled up the native rivets on the bottom and from the inside missed everything with polyurethane mastic mixed 1k1 with aluminum shavings - it keeps "horseradish" (you painted the mastic after priming)

At first I used such a sealant, then I took 600g in sausages - it is twice cheaper and more convenient to use

Because the motor was planned to be 25 - 30 hp, I decided to make boules (I would gladly buy it, but you will not find it with fire in the daytime). I bent 1.5mm from AMG5 according to the original drawings, a sheet of 120X300cm was enough, and there was also a keel pad left. I pushed polystyrene foam inside the boules (it remained after the room was repaired), the voids between the polystyrene blew out 2k foam.

gravity transom asks, and so the boat acquired a second life thanks to the new owner. it turned out great. What engine will it be?

There will be no self-draining transom - it is not needed in our estuaries (there is little water). The motor will be this one about 25 filly.

Put the pump anyway, it will overwhelm, checked personally. And what screw?

Painting.
I painted it according to the following scheme:
I stripped everything to metal, degreased (taking into account the removal of tar, solvent, it took 15 liters), put epoxy primer, on top of the automobile VIKA - one of the cheapest.
Next is camouflage. Looked at the amerikosov. I applied different leaves - twigs. Used three colors. First the darkest, then the lightest "Ivory", followed by coffee. From above I covered the whole thing with a matte varnish from the same cans. By the way, the paint is quite high quality, I use it not for the first time, even on bare aluminum it holds well, and amers were painted with it on a video from Youtuba.

Repair cost estimate:

BODY wash - 10 cans X 250r - 2500r
Solvent 640th canister 10L - 2pcs X400r - 800r
Epoxy anticorrosive primer 2-component 2 sets X500r - 1000r
2k acrylic paint Vika 1l - 2pcsX500r - 1000r
Spray gun - 1pc X 800r
Paint in cans RUST-OLEUM - 3pcX170r - 510r
Matt varnish in cans RUST-OLEUM - 3pcX170r - 510r
AMG5 sheet 1.5mm 120X300cm - 3500r
Foam 2k DenBraven 4pcsX250r - 1000r
Blind rivets BRALO closed Al / Nerzh 5Х12mm - 1000shtХ4р - 4000r
Riveter Chinese "accordion" - 1pcX750r
Polyurethane sealant "Marine", 300gr each - 2pcs X200r - 400r
Polyurethane sealant in "sausages" 600gr each - 3pcs X250r - 750r
A pistol for sausages - 1000r
Polyurethane mastic Hyperdesmo Classic can 1 kg 3pcsX300r - 900r
Polypropylene sheet 5mm 150X300cm - 4600r
Composite sheet 3 mm 150X400cm - 4500r
Electric pump - 1pc. - 850r
Polyethylene ducks - 4pcsX60r - 240r
Anti-skid tape Tessa - cut 20X110cm - 700r
Total: 30 310 rubles

Maybe I missed something, so you can safely throw a couple of thousand, well, beer does not count))

The pump is standing, the propeller took 9 7 / 8X13, I have not been on the water yet.

I have an 11-cargo Solas (with a full load of 300-400kg it comes out on the glis), but my boat is heavier too. I put a tah-I will look, I think 13 is the best for you.

Some more photos
Sewn up the bottom with 5mm polypropylene. Now it is even and smooth)). Along the keel, the plastic was milled by 2 mm and bent by heating with a construction hairdryer. I put it on the same BRALO rivets, liberally coating it with sealant.

The overlay turned out not very neat, tk. its width is 10cm. Bent with folds. If you do it already, it will be perfect. Material - AMG5.

Mastic with aluminum shavings

Buli is also not ideal because they bent “on the knee” without the use of a listogib and other high-precision equipment. But the camouflage hid all the shoals of the tinsmith.

The transom is reinforced with additional kerchiefs to the bottom, the kerchiefs on the sides are replaced by the family.

To drain the water, I put a hose from the washer (it was lying idle) - let's see how long it will live.

A 7A battery, a voltage regulator from Ivan, a toggle switch for the pump and a couple of fuses (in front of the regulator and in front of the pump) will live here

The set for slides was reinforced with an aluminum profile. Instead of plywood on the floor, I decided to use a 3mm composite ("sandwich" made of aluminum and polyethylene) - it does not rot, does not bend, and of the minuses it is slippery. The drawers are made from the remains of the same composite. For the harnesses I used 4cm secondary foam rubber and Soviet leatherette from old stocks.

Another saddle-cap is missing.

Painting))

Ready for takeoff)).

ZY This was my first renovation and it took me almost 8 months with breaks for work and family)). Many thanks to the forum for ideas and practical experience in repair)).

I hope my report will be useful to someone.

Khokhloma. TS respect, patience and energy expended. You never know what you can do till you try!

Hi Artem, I take off my hat - I myself am in this process 🙂
the truth is, I don't have 6 layers - only the factory one, so I think the body cans and 3 liters of 646 should be enough, the bottom remains to be washed and the interior. Damn thought to run in a new boat by the 9th, but alas - a stupid habit to do everything to the fullest. There was a desire to touch up only the top - it ended up with a complete repainting, and even out of inexperience and haste, I threw work on myself.
How is the motor? all normul?
By the way, I went through the process of welding a pen - little things in life! you don't even need to disassemble.

Hello Dima)). Thank you.
Everything is in order with the motor, started from the third pull. There was a little water in the carburetor, but everything is ok. I won't cook the pen yet, I just bought a new screw.
I also wanted to go out on the water in May - it did not work. The alteration of the trailer was delayed. I'll finish - I'll post it.

The seats are high. Make rails to hold on.
And so the test! With hands guy!
Have you seen this topic? Link.
It will be more convenient.

There is no need for a fuse in front of the regulator.

Varnishing somehow demonstrated the process of painting a lifebuoy as an ideal :) IMHO, it makes more sense than repairing a rotten cauldron. And yes, the guy with the hands :)

Hello Artem, please write in more detail about polypropylene on the bottom and composite on the bottom, interested in what it is used for, where it is sold, how much it hangs, how easy it bends in the shape of the bottom, etc.
Thanks in advance.

Polypropylene is used for the manufacture of various containers. It bends well when heated with a building hair dryer or a heat gun, welded using rods and the same hair dryer or a special soldering iron. Better to bend on the "string", because you need to heat from both sides. The specific gravity is 0.96, i.e. a sheet with a thickness of 5mm and a size of 1.5X3m weighs 21kg.
The composite is used in the manufacture of advertising signs and ventilation facades. There are Chinese YARET, our Bildex and German ALUCOBOND (the most expensive). The thickness is 3,4,5mm. In advertising, mainly - 3mm, in facades - 5mm. A sheet with a thickness of 3mm 1.5X4m weighs about 18kg.

Artem, thank you, and in which stores are these materials sold?

Tatarstan Fishing and Hunting Forum

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Great job. Inspires. I also think Kazanka M will be restored as the next step.
Questions:
Not considered what rivets riveted the patches on the bottom?
From what and how did you bent the keel pad? Riveted on holes from old rivets or on top of them?
What kind of tape is this in the photo near the patches on the bottom?

And the nose rack is a necessary thing. It splashes heavily on the wave.

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Kazanka is written on the ship's ticket

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

yes, this is only without booles

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Excellent copy in the photo! in the current state of rarity!

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

made from bakelite plywood, it turned out self-draining.

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

The photo of the transom can not be thrown off. The format does not work. Make sure to self-drain, there is more foam in the sides and under the sleigh.

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Excuse me for the lack of understanding, I just didn’t do boats when I didn’t do it, how to understand self-draining?

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

And how thick is the plywood?

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Max you are more accurate with such a kit! Especially if you come across boats for the first time, the motor is powerful, and the boat is not easy to operate, it smells special, it hurts especially at high speeds, not expected. She does not like the harsh handling of the tiller. But when you make friends with her, you wake up happiness! GOOD LUCK!

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

I went to the garage to take a photo. I'll post it in the evening and write in detail.

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

We are all waiting for Nikolai with a photo report.

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

What is 30ka in general on such a cauldron without boules? Then the topic “How did I get the boat from the bottom” will appear?
I went on it on Neptune 23 two years ago, so this power was behind the eyes in general, and this despite the fact that the Kazanka was at least with boules!

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

Re: reinforce the transom under 30 yamaha

the transom was made from scrap materials (plywood, glass glue, 40 * 35 * 2 corner, screws, self-tapping screws, T-shaped profile), because. the entire budget at that time was spent on the motor and control. the corner stuck through drilling out the native rivets, fixed with screws (as a result, the height increased by 20mm, then the truth had to put another 20mm bar.) frame (+ the stops for the slides turned out).

Barnaul
Last authorization:
25.07.2018 14:46:46

So, we have Kazanka 5M2, which I put in order the year before last. By the way, I did not find pictures in the relevant topic - apparently an echo of the forum's moving. freshen up then.
What was done then:
- Changed the glass to completely homemade
- Changed the entire fuel line (wiring, filling, ventilation)
- Cut out a regular sofa, thereby increasing the length of the cockpit
- Changed all the floorboards
- Made blocks of buoyancy (in the sides, in the stern and in the bow) from expanded polystyrene in a volume of 0.35 m3
- Installed removable swivel seats with adjustable height
- Redesigned the dashboard
- Sewn up the cockpit walls with alucobond
- Made awning arches from stainless pipes
- Made a fender from a reinforced hose
- I changed the lodgments on the trailer - they were strongly bent
- I ordered parking and running tents from the Nomad
A little phot:

Last year, after the cold fishing trips in the fall of 2012 (hands get stiff when you pull out the anchor), I decided to equip the boat with a Trac 45 anchor winch, and dumped a homemade roller (this is such a crap with rollers that the anchor takes) - this is how it happened:

Barnaul
Last authorization:
25.07.2018 14:46:46

Since the motor runs with a long leg, the transom was made soundly even before I bought the boat - it was increased in height, sheathed with plywood, pasted over with fiberglass and painted. Apparently the specialist did it. The thickness excluding the wedge is as much as 70 mm.

But last year I decided to raise the motor 18 mm to improve speed. drilled new holes, and I have wet wood shavings on the drill - an alarming sign. Well, I think the transom will also have to be altered - I set this task for this year.

Barnaul
Last authorization:
25.07.2018 14:46:46

I set myself the minimum task: to cut off all the plywood, to open the transom, since a pine board comes from the factory inside, to make a new transom from plywood, and on the outside with a sandwich to cover it with sheets of duralumin.
Well, sir! You must first remove the engine, which is not so easy considering that the 4-cylinder 50 weighs 108 kg. We put the motor on a chock with a feather, unscrewed the bolts, and pulled up the bow of the boat - the engine remained on the chock. tied up capacity on all sides - let it stand until the end of the repair.
This is what the transom looks like:

A crack on the top of the transom is clearly visible - it is the glued fiberglass that has burst - we dismantle everything!
Between the plywood and the duralumin there was a sealant that can only be torn off mechanically - the carbcliner did not even help.

The plywood began to exfoliate in places, and there was no transom board in the inside at all - there was only wet dust inside, which had to be scooped up with a spoon - there was no solid wood left at all!

All that's left. yummy)))

I cut the end of the transom a little crookedly with a grinder - nothing, then I will trim it.

Some of the elements in Kazanka 5M2 are made of steel - you can see sickly corrosion.

In short, everything must be cleaned and painted.

... To be continued. next week.

Barnaul
Last authorization:
25.07.2018 14:46:46

And so, if I had not forgotten the camera next to the boat for two weekends in a row, I would have written more often)))
Let's continue.
We clean the feed and recess from old paint and prime with WashPrimer.

Then we take a 2-component car enamel and, in the absence of normal means of painting, use a piece of foam rubber as a tampon.
It turned out bearable.

We try on pre-cut elements: from the recession side, a sheet of duralumin 1.5 mm and another sheet of 3 mm; in the middle, FSF plywood glued from two sheets of 18 mm (total 36 mm); outside there are two sheets of duralumin, 3 mm each.

This is how it looks from the inside - everything seems to be ok. In general, before I cut out or alter anything, I am already used to making drawings, which I think over carefully.

Barnaul
Last authorization:
25.07.2018 14:46:46

In order not to make unnecessary holes in the old transom - we take the old holes as a basis + add new ones where necessary.
Here is a photo of the gouged plywood, which has already been treated with Tikkurilov antiseptic.

Next, we put the plywood in the transom niche, apply the sheets of duralumin and start punching them through the holes in the plywood.

We stick in the furniture bolts and try to stretch them so that the square base of the bolts pushes the nests into the duralumin - it did not work. you will have to make square holes with a file (((

I took the duralumin sheets home and shuffled them with a file for 3 days - I made square holes out of round holes.
On Saturday he brought everything and began to collect - he missed everything with aquarium sealant.

I will cut off the excess of the corner in the next. once. All bolts are also sealed with sealant. The holes from the old reinforcement below the waterline, which were left out of business, had to be simply closed with bolts and sealant.
This is what the result looks like at the moment.

It remains to put the kerchiefs (they are in recession), and make a wedge under the engine - and you can launch it.

This is how the removed engine looks like - 108 kg just can't be carried on your hands.

The housing has been tested for leaks. Installed boules made of fiberglass of our own production according to original patterns. The old paint was removed chemically, the factory cladding layer remained intact. The boat is primed with primer on aluminum, painted with acrylic enamel in camouflage with varnish. The boat has a shipping cover made of waterproof material.

Installed windshield with the ability to exit to the nose (frame - aluminum profile, glass - polycarbonate). A self-draining anchor box with a lid made of corrugated aluminum, a stainless steel handle and a lock-lock is mounted on the bow of the deck. If necessary, you can use the anchor box as a basin for fry, plugging the drain hole with a stopper. On the bow deck there are two rod holders, two mooring cleats and two half-hooks. A removable, combined running-parking light is mounted in front of the windshield. A stainless steel eyelet is installed on the stem.

The opening part of the boot lid has been shortened for ease of use. The trunk lid acts as a table with two rubber cupholders. The boot lid is locked. In the trunk there is a floor covering made of waterproof laminated plywood.

The cockpit of the boat was increased by 30 cm due to the reduction of the bow trunk, which was difficult to access.In the cockpit, a floorboard frame is mounted, floorboards are installed from waterproof laminated plywood, the sides are protected from the inside with foamed PVC with the installation of an additional unsinkability margin. Shelves are built into the middle part of both sides. A folding table is installed on the starboard side in the middle of the cockpit. Swivel platforms and soft folding chairs are mounted on the podium lockers.

A manual dewatering pump is installed in the stern. The transom boards were replaced, a self-draining recess was made with the adjustment of the transom height for an imported motor with an S-leg. At the stern there are two rod holders and two mooring cleats. At the stern, there is a cover that covers a standard 24-liter gas tank. Installed aft boatmaster's seat, increased in length, removable back and soft pad on the seat, under which you can mount a waterproof compartment for fish (possibly with aeration).

An aluminum boat, like any other, requires careful inspection and, if necessary, repair.

It is not always possible to entrust repairs to a specialist; often boats are repaired by their own hands.

Having carefully examined the aluminum boat, you should understand what kind of repair is needed.

Inspection begins from the bottom of the boat, for this it is turned over. Look for cracks, rusted spots, lost or loose rivets.

The transom of the boat experiences the greatest load during operation, and special attention is paid to it.

Of course, various breakdowns are possible, but in the article I consider only those that are inherent only in boats made of aluminum and its alloys.

One of the most common damage to an aluminum boat is corrosion. Often cracks are hidden under the corrosive spots. If you do not fight with it, then as a result, a hole will form in the bottom.

To determine the depth of damage, it is best to clean the bottom of the boat with a grinder. Peel to metal.

After rough cleaning, sand it with sandpaper, and if necessary, remove the old paint with a special remover. Then degrease, prime and paint.

When inspecting the boat, the hammer will help to determine the reliability of the rivets. It will be necessary to knock on each rivet, if it rattles and wobbles, then it will need to be replaced.

If the holes are developed, then a rivet of a larger diameter must be put in this place.

The most common rivets fail, which are located closer to the motor, they are most susceptible to vibration.

The next step will be to seal the cracks. Cracks on a boat are most often formed in a collision, for example, accidentally stumbled upon a driftwood. Cracks can be impressive and very small.

The smallest cracks can be repaired with zinc-doped tin-lead alloy soldering.

When working with aluminum and alloys, the problem arises with tinning, the oxide film interferes. There are several ways to solder aluminum, for example, you can use an alkaline anhydrous oil, for example, gun oil. Before soldering, clean the surfaces, moisten with oil, then remove the film with a soldering iron and solder. They also use a flux by applying it to the solder.

The only way you can fix holes and large cracks in your aluminum boat is with patches.

Patches can be riveted or welded.

Welding, in general, is best used in exceptional cases when it is impossible for some reason to rivet.

Not all aluminum alloys withstand welding, often the boat hull breaks next to the weld. Knowing this, experienced welders are usually reluctant to take up the job.

But still, welding is used for repairs. Therefore, if you cook, then you need to do it on both sides and only thin sheets.

If you are not a professional welder, you will have to transport the boat to a workshop. Aluminum boats are welded with argon.

The patch is placed on the inside of the boat. In order for it to be durable, all riveting rules must be observed.

The size of the patch should correspond to the size of the crack.

The material from which you make the patch should be exactly the same as on your boat.

If aluminum is combined with another metal, then a galvanic pair is created. This means that galvanic corrosion will occur at the junction, which will quickly destroy aluminum or its alloy.

For the same reason, it is not recommended to use a metal brush to clean the case.

It is necessary to observe the following sequence when installing a patch using a rivet:

Some people try to seal small cracks with cold welding or glass cloth, it is a waste of time. Such repairs are impractical, all of this will quickly fall off during operation.

After repairs, the boat should be painted with a special paint.

Folk omen: Young and inexperienced fishermen have the biggest catch!

We need advice from an honest mind - there’s not enough of our own.
The crux of the question is this: we have a Kazanka boat of 78 g of release a couple of holes in the bottom, and an attempt to weld them BUT went a crack next to the weld seam, the former owner sealed everything with sealant from insulating glass units and forgot, but it still flows.
We also have a worn-out nose almost to the rivets through which it also leaks, a friend suggests embroidering and repairing, I propose to cook BUT metal duralumin and whether it is cooked or not, we don’t know - who says what and we are not welders. If you rivet, then you need special rivets, as I understand it, airplane rivets - no one knows where to get them.
Vopschem if anyone knows HOW to repair it by themselves or WHERE it can be done in St. Petersburg for reasonable money, or someone who has repaired it myself, I will be grateful for any advice.

If the Kazanka of the first issues (with or without boules), then it is not worth boiling the rubbed keel, there is a tikool tape, it will burn out. A worn keel can be repaired as follows:
Unfasten the epoxy glue, soak the women's nylon stockings with glue and push in as much as possible with a screwdriver, then grease so that everything is flush. In general, I covered up with poxipol.
And of course it is better to rivet the patches, but if you don't feel like messing around, you can put them on the bolts, you can pour sealant for aquariums under the patch, and the car will do.

Thank you! We will try to repair it ourselves - because there are not enough rivets.

quote: because rivets are missing.
And what kind of special rivets? Once upon a time it was necessary to make rivets from aluminum wire. It seems like no problem. The simplest methods.

Brake pad rivets may work if they are long enough.
Also a rarity today, but while they are on sale, I bought myself 2 sets of 4 mm rivets in stock.
It is also possible with the usual now - blind rivets, they are only weak, although they had to rivet the bottom, than the hole in such a riveting was repaired so that water would not flow into the boat, I don't remember.
The neighbor has covered the keel of the broomstick with cold welding, rubbed with ice in the bow, and has been walking without problems for the second year.

And it is not difficult to make rivets, I had a device somewhere, with the help of which I made copper rivets and nails of five or six different diameters. If you have material and a drilling machine, you can make such an adaptation in an hour.

After a long search "CHEAPER and BETTER" - I found it! Well, actually what happened. The trailer in the photo is just a bit unfinished, but at the time of recording everything is already ready. I look forward to the opening of the motorboat season!

I respect for work and beauty, but this is a trough, olweiss with wings, damn it, I can't respect it))

The primer is epoxy enamel (gray), metallic mobihel (blue-green) and varnished.

In the fall, we are waiting for a photo of the state of the fleet!

Launch 7 feet under the keel! A new life begins)))

3 years ago I found myself a 78 like a year, but I have never been on the water, they also gave a breeze 8 to it, also in the 70s and also never used. I just repainted the boat in camouflage, otherwise it was gray, and I don't really digest gray for something ... Good luck with her and seven feet under the keel. Grandfather, at 30 Whirlwind, he did such somersaults on the same, the scooters are resting)))