In detail: do-it-yourself repair of toilet cracks from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Faience belongs to the group of ceramic materials, therefore, toilet bowls made from it, despite their apparent massiveness, are quite fragile thing, and if handled carelessly, they can easily crack. The causes of cracks in them can be very diverse. For example, if you live in a small-sized apartment with a combined bathroom, then surely your cabinet for storing household chemicals for washing and maintaining plumbing fixtures is suspended in order to save space just above the toilet. If something falls from it or from it, then it goes straight into the toilet, and a crack will certainly appear in it, and if the dropped object is heavy enough, it may even be split. Therefore, if you have such a cabinet hanging over the toilet, the toilet should always be closed with a lid.
Does not tolerate faience and hot water, and especially boiling water. So if you have a habit of pouring water into the toilet after boiling potatoes, you need to get rid of it. Hot water enters the bowl, which heats up and expands, but the rest of the parts remain cold! Internal stresses arise in the material, which lead to the formation of cracks. And many also pour hot water down the toilet, flushing the batteries. Cracks are almost inevitable here, especially if flushing is performed during the cold season.
Cracks in the toilet can also occur due to defects made during its installation, for example, too tight or unevenly tightened bolts. When installing the toilet or replacing the cistern, the bolts should be tightened without distortion, in pairs and alternately, making the wrench only a few turns each time. It is advisable to additionally support the cisterns with a separate shelf against the wall, since without it, over time, a piece of the shelf or the ear of the toilet bowl, due to the fragility of the faience, will not withstand the load and will fall off. The bolts that pull the toilet bowl to the floor should not be tightened all the way, but only if the toilet bowl does not wobble. Is there an ugly gap left? It's okay, dilute a special dry mortar or prepare a cement mortar, and cover it up. But your toilet will have a large supporting area, and thus the likelihood of cracking in it will be much less.
But - after all, your toilet has already cracked, and now all these tips seem to be somehow already useless - you need to fix it! However, you also need to repair the toilet in different ways, depending on what exactly happened to you.
If the tightness of the toilet is not broken, for example, the eyelet or a piece of base that fixes the cistern shelf breaks off, clean the splinter and splinter of dirt, dry them, degrease them with gasoline or acetone, smear the splinter with Moment, Moment-Super or Henkel glue, and tightly press to the place of the chip under load. We hold the load until the glue has completely hardened, this time is indicated on its packaging.
When various objects fall into the toilet bowl, a chip usually forms in the place where water accumulates in it. There will already be little universal glue - you need an epoxy resin with a hardener and a container for mixing them. We shut off the water entering the tank, wipe the toilet bowl dry, and dry it and the shard. Degrease the chip and splinter, as described above. We mix the epoxy resin and the hardener for it, grease the place of the chip and the splinter with the resulting mixture, apply the splinter to where it came from, and fix it with electrical tape or tape. If possible, we apply a load to the gluing site - for example, using a spacer.When the resin is completely dry, we grind the seams with fine-grit sandpaper "number 0" and a piece of felt cut from old felt boots.
Video (click to play).
If a crack has formed - a through one, and thus the tightness of the toilet is broken, it must be immediately restored. Prepare a grinder by placing a stone disc, felt, sandpaper, manual or electric door on it, inserting a thin drill into it that can work with tiles, epoxy resin and a hardener for it.
Now we drill through the crack from both ends with a drill, limiting and thereby preventing its further growth. We work intermittently so that the faience does not overheat. Using a grinder, we turn the crack into a neat groove. We mix the hardener and epoxy resin, completely fill the resulting recess and both holes drilled in the faience with the mixture. We remove excess mixture. After the mixture has hardened, we grind the restored surface of the toilet bowl with "rough" sandpaper and felt at the finishing stage.
If the toilet is cracked at its base and starts leaking, all that remains is to replace it with a new one. Filling the cracked base with cement mortar will lead to conflicts with neighbors from below - then their ceiling will be constantly wet, even a fungus may appear. You already need it yourself?
An unpleasant occasion - a crack in the toilet. It seems that the problem is not catastrophic, and the water may not ooze, but the appearance of the plumbing is spoiled, and the risk of a leak is high. It is all the more offensive when the toilet is expensive and beautiful. You can also close the rift with your own hands. There are several ways to do this: glue-sealant, epoxy resin, cold welding and others. Videos and expert recommendations will help you figure out how the repair process takes place.
The choice of a method for eliminating a crack in plumbing largely depends on its type:
a chip that does not break the tightness;
one-sided crack (most often inside the toilet bowl);
a bilateral crack that affects or potentially affects the tightness.
If such damage forms in a bowl or cistern, it is enough to simply glue them together.
There is another type of cracks - at the base of the toilet. They usually appear when boiling water is poured into the toilet, and are most dangerous because they will continue to grow steadily in size. It is almost impossible to repair them, it is easier to replace them.
Attention! Saw a crack - glue it up as quickly as possible. A delay in solving the problem threatens to increase the size of the fault.
The method is relevant in the case when a fragment that is not responsible for the tightness has broken off from the toilet. This usually happens at the junction of the bowl with the cistern (eyelet or edge of the base) or on the cistern itself, sometimes along the rim of the toilet bowl. For this purpose, ordinary all-purpose glue is suitable. It is important to buy a reliable one, because there are many models on the market, many of which do not differ in quality.
The process of bonding a broken-off ceramic element consists of the following stages:
Clean the surfaces of the fragment and the toilet bowl in the place of the fracture from mechanical debris and ceramic chips.
After drying, degrease the surfaces using acetone or gasoline.
Apply glue and press down on the broken piece. The time and force of pressing should be in accordance with the recommendations in the instructions for the glue.
Attention! No matter how good the glue is, it cannot restore the toilet bowl to its former strength. Therefore, do not put stress on the glued piece.
This method is great for a situation where an object has fallen into the toilet and damaged the ceramics. The crack turned out to be shallow, does not allow water to pass through and is not visible from the opposite side. All-purpose glue works too, but epoxy is better. More precisely, resin plus hardener:
Prepare both components and a mixing container.
Shut off the water supply to the tank.Dry and dry thoroughly.
Degrease it.
Mix the two adhesives according to the instructions in the instructions for the substances.
Apply the mixture evenly to the desired surface.
Fix the place of gluing in any way. Even tape will do. It is important that the parts to be glued are pressed against one another.
After the resin has dried, it is better to grind the seam. This is important not only for improving the appearance of the toilet, but also for practical reasons. Minor irregularities in the seam will accumulate dirt. For grouting, use M20 or M40 sandpaper and then felt.
These products also work well with shallow cracks and broken pieces of faience. Prepare silicone solvent and laundry soap with your all-purpose silicone sealant adhesive. It is convenient to carry out application work with a plastic spatula:
Sand the crack with fine sandpaper. The procedure requires caution and thoroughness: there should be no small particles left on the surface, which will reduce the quality of gluing.
Degrease with solvent the parts to which the sealant will be applied.
Saturate surfaces with silicone. Remove excess with a spatula.
Lather your hand and walk over the glued area, smoothing it.
If the procedure is correct, the sealant will harden in 20 minutes, and the toilet can already be used.
In the case of "cold welding", you will have to wait at least 4 hours. The process is similar:
Clean and degrease the glued area.
Cut off part of the substance and knead it in your palms (put on gloves first). You should get a homogeneous mass.
Apply the paste to the surface, tamping down into crevices as needed.
After 4 hours, the seam becomes accessible for sanding.
Advice. Once the seam has dried, it can be painted over to match the color of the toilet.
If the crack is double-sided and allows water to pass through, then a two-component epoxy resin is also used. However, in this case, the crack needs additional treatment:
Drill two through holes along the edges of the fracture. To do this, you need a drill with a special drill for thin tiles. Such a technique should stop the growth of the crack.
Using a grinder (disc on a stone), make a depression along the length of the crack in half the thickness of the toilet bowl material. It doesn't matter which side of the plumbing you do this work, because the break will still remain noticeable. Be careful not to overheat the faience.
Pour the resin and hardener inside. Remove excess in an uncured state.
Sandpaper the area after drying. Paint over as needed.
It is possible that after the procedure, the crack will continue to grow over time. In this case, you will have to buy a new toilet, because it will not be safe to use the old one. Faience forms sharp pieces when broken.
We went into the bathroom, and there is a puddle on the floor next to the ceramic toilet, and you are completely in the dark, because of what it could be? If the gasket at the entrance to the drain tank is leaking, work for a couple of minutes, it is another matter when the problem arose due to a crack in the same tank or the bowl of the plumbing fixture itself.
In this case, the job is not so easy, which may even result in a complete replacement of equipment. If you want to know how to repair a crack and how you can glue the toilet yourself, read our article further.
Typical damage to ceramics
Before we learn how to glue a ceramic toilet, let's understand where our crack came from, so as not to waste time.
No effort should be made in large quantities during the process.
Make sure that the bolts are tightened evenly.
Otherwise, these two conditions will become precursors of the appearance of cracks. In this case, the cistern and toilet bowl may burst after a while, even a very long one.
First dismantle, and then decide how to glue the toilet cistern
Close the toilet lid... A seemingly simple operation will help protect the bowl from foreign objects entering it, which can cause chips and cracks. In addition, your valuables will also not fall into the water.
Do not pour hot liquid down the toilet, be sure to let it cool down... Agree, purchasing a new toilet and installing it will cost much more than an old pot or frying pan. This also applies to flushing the heating batteries in winter. Do not direct water with a temperature of 80-90˚ into the toilet bowl.
Tip: if there is no other way to remove water from the heating radiators, push the hose into the sewer pipe through the toilet outlet.
During assembly, make sure that there is no distortion, and do not use excessive force., remember that the product is made of clay, not metal or wood. If the toilet cistern is cracked, you will find out how to glue it in the article below.
So, we figured out what can mainly lead to cracks in a ceramic toilet or cistern. Now let's move on to repairing them.
This method will help to repair the product when a fragment has broken off, which is not related to ensuring tightness. For example, a part of the base and an eyelet for attaching a shelf.
Toilet bowl glue "Supermoment" (by Henkel)
Get any all-purpose adhesive from a reputable manufacturer, the price cannot be low. Henkel's Supermoment is fine.
Clean the surface of the defect from crumbs and dust.
Let the product dry completely.
Degrease surfaces with petrol or acetone.
Apply glue and press down on the broken piece. Fix in any way for the time specified in the instructions for the composition.
Advice: it is not worth loading the glue joint, since in terms of strength it will be much inferior to solid faience.
In this case, consider the moment when an object fell into the toilet bowl and damaged it. Replace all-purpose adhesive with two-component epoxy.
Prepare the resin and hardener components and a mixing container.
Dry the surfaces to be glued well.
Close the water supply to the tank, install a fan, wipe off any drops. Make sure the bonding area is completely dry.
Degrease surfaces.
Pictured is a two-component epoxy resin
Stir the resin and hardener together according to the manufacturer's recommendation.
Apply glue to the surfaces to be bonded.
Be sure to fix the gluing area in any way. For example, you can use regular tape by sticking it on the outside of the bowl.
When the resin is dry, lightly sand the glue lines where they are visible. First use M20 or M40 sandpaper, then felt. Otherwise, pollution will collect here.
Even such a defect in the toilet bowl can be eliminated.
Now we will find out how to seal the crack in the toilet, which affects its tightness. In this case, it is also necessary to prevent the defect from growing.
epoxy resin with hardener;
drill with a thin drill for tiles;
grinder with a stone disc;
sandpaper and felt for sanding the bonding area.
Can use cold welding for plumbing
It remains to find out how to glue the toilet with your own hands:
Drill 2 thin through holes at the ends of the crack. This will stop lengthening it.
Using the grinder, select a depression along the entire crack for about 50% of the thickness of the faience. At the same time, do not forget that overheating of the material will only aggravate the situation, it may begin to crack in other places. It doesn't matter where you do it - from the outside or from the inside of the bowl, the crack will still be noticeable.
Fill the prepared recess and holes with a mixture of resin and hardener, remove the excess immediately so that you work less with sandpaper afterwards.