Do-it-yourself knitted sweater repair

Now I read what I wrote again and I see that I did not specify. I'm asking about knitwear.
-And where is it possible to “pull out” pieces of thread in a knitted product from the side?
- Most likely, you can “get” the thread by pulling it out in the transverse direction - shortening the product by one / two rows.
-From Salve's answer: this repair of holes in knitwear is done with a needle, not with knitting needles.

Let me try to imagine how this is done:
1- the moth-eaten ends of the threads must be deftly tied to each other.
2- To do this, it is necessary to unravel the knitting around the hole to the required length of the tips so that a knot can be formed. In this case, the hole will increase.
3- Remove open loops on a regular thread so that they do not bloom (as it was written in previous messages)
4- We see how many threads are needed
5- Dissolve in the transverse direction and “extract” the required number of centimeters of thread
6- Now you can start with a needle to restore the missing loops.

Correct me and add . Thank you.

Salve, Special thanks to you for the string of pantyhose.

Post has been edited muscleka – Jun 11 2015, 09:13

Often, after prolonged wear, knitted items are torn, unraveled, the elastic band on blouses and sweaters is stretched. There is a need for repair. Ordinary darning or patches spoil the look of things and often make them unusable. Knowing how to knit, you can beautifully repair things so that defects are not noticeable. If things are very worn, they can be unraveled and re-knitted, adding the rest of the wool of a different color. In every home there are balls of colored threads that can be used to decorate the tied thing.

Before you start repairing knitted items, they must be washed. For washing knitted things, washing powders and soap shavings are used. The water is heated to 30 degrees and ammonia is added there (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). When washing, woolen things should not be rubbed, twisted - this causes them to lose their original shape and fall off heavily, which makes them unsuitable for repair and dressing. The washed product is rinsed in warm water, squeezed out without twisting. After that, the thing is laid out on the fabric and give it the desired shape. The details of the gum during washing and spinning do not stretch, but compress a little.

Iron knitted things from the inside through a wet fabric. Things knitted with openwork and embossed patterns are not ironed. After washing, they are laid out on fabrics, leaving to dry. Knitted blouses, dresses, sweaters should not be hung on a coat hanger, because of this they stretch. Store them folded.

After the product is washed and ironed, proceed to repair. First of all, the worn part is separated: for this, the product is torn at the seams, and then at the beginning of the row located 2-3 cm above the worn place, the loop is cut and the end of the thread is picked up with fingers, it is carefully pulled out and the thread is cut off. The worn part disappears and the main part of the product remains with a new row of free loops. The freed loops are put on a knitting needle and knitted along the pattern in the opposite direction.

Figure 578. Thread pulling

Figure 579. Release of a product part from a damaged area

Figure 580. Released loops cast on a knitting needle

In this way, you can lengthen a thing, tie up stretched or blooming elastic bands. If there is not enough wool, the elastic can be made striped, choosing colors that are in harmony with the main color.

1. REPAIR OF JUMPER OR JACKET

If the jumper is badly worn (lost its shape, the sleeves are frayed, the elastic band is very stretched), start the repair by dissolving the product along the seams of the part.After that, wash each piece separately and dry. Then you need to cut out all the worn areas without breaking the loops.

Release the upper and lower sides of the resulting hole from the cut threads and put on free loops on the knitting needle, with the loops of the upper row transferred to the working thread, and the loops of the lower row to the pin. Next, a new square is knitted from the upper side of the hole, while maintaining the design of the product. When the square is knitted, all the loops of the last row are connected with a needle to the loops of the underside of the hole as shown in the figure.

Figure 582. Connecting loops with a needle

Figure 583. Stitching the outer edge loops

Then the sides of the square are sewn with the sides of the knitted hole, turning the sleeve inside out. In order for the seam not to be visible, we carefully align the details row by row, loop by loop, using the threads of the main color. We sew the outer edges of the edge loops of both sides of the parts with each other so that the edges match.

After repair, the sleeve is steamed (except for the sleeve with an elastic band and a relief pattern)

Woolen socks and stockings often have heels and toes torn. Instead of the usual darning, socks or stockings can be tied on, which is much stronger and more beautiful.

When repairing the heel, the worn part is cut out according to the method described in repairing the sleeve. They release the loops from the cut ends of the threads, put the loops of the upper part of the hole on one knitting needle, and the loops of the lower part on the other two, picking up several loops from the sides of the heel.

Figure 584. Sock with a worn out heel

Figure 585. Picking up loops on three knitting needles

Then we begin to knit with stocking knitting loops only on the upper side of the cut. At the same time, with each new row, together with the last loop, we knit one of the loops cast on the side knitting needles. In this way, they knit until both sides of the hole converge, after which they knit another 10 rows without changes and proceed to the heel cap (Figure 584) in the same way as when knitting a sock. When the heel is tied and takes the shape of a cap, the loops remaining from the middle of the heel are connected (see “Repairing a Jumper or Sweater”) with the middle loops of the lower hole. The remaining loops on the sides are sewn with the side parts of the heel.

The repair of the toe is done as follows: the worn part is cut off, the loops are released from the cut ends, put on 4 knitting needles and tied, as described in the lesson “Knitting socks”.

3. REPAIR OF GLOVES AND MITTENS

Fingertips wear out the fastest in gloves and mittens.

Repair begins with the removal of the damaged part. Release the loops from the cut ends of the threads. The released loops are placed on 3 knitting needles. Next, tie a finger to the required length.

Figure 587. Tying the finger of the glove

Figure 588. Repair of gloves connected on 2 knitting needles

Descent of the finger is done by knitting 2 loops together at the beginning of each knitting needle.

The worn elastic band of gloves and mittens is repaired in the same way as the elastic band of a blouse and jumper.

If, when dissolving the old product, the loops are difficult to release from each other, they should be helped with a hook or a needle.

Connecting parts is the most important part of making knitted clothes. Therefore, when unraveling or re-tying the product, carefully check that the parts of the product are sewn evenly.

We have already talked about knitting raglan in the article Knitting products with raglan sleeves. In this article, we will look at examples of specific things like .

1. DRESS WITH BUTTERFLIES Figure 589. Dress size 30-32 is made from 400 g of woolen yarn No. 32/2, connected in 5 threads. Spokes 2.5.

There are various ways to "extend the life" of your favorite thing, so we will tell you how to implement repair of knitwear.

If there are any defects (scuffs, holes), the thing can be repaired by eliminating the damaged area and tying the missing part. The defective area must be separated along the loop rows, which are located below and above the damage.

It is possible to remove the damaged part of the part by cutting the thread along the loop row and pulling it out of the loop posts. The elongated thread must be cut so that the free end is 2-3 cm long.

You can cut the part exactly along the loop row, remove the damaged part and clean the edges of the section from the cut threads (loops). The released loops must be put on the knitting needles and the missing section must be tied.

To connect the main part with the knitted part, the “loop to loop” method is used, while the direction of knitting does not matter.

If the product has a certain pattern, it is necessary to adjust the knitting direction with the pattern (see fig. 1).

In the same way, the elongation of parts is also produced. When completely replacing the lower part of the part, you need to put loops on the knitting needles and knit to the required length.

If it is only necessary to shorten the product a little, the excess is not cut off: the bottom must be bent and hemmed.

If you need to reduce the length by more than 2-3 cm, the product is shortened, the edge is overcast, the bottom of the thing is folded and hemmed.

As a rule, the bottom of the cuffs and waistband wears out in a knitted item.

Loops (broken) can be closed in two ways: stretching and non-stretching.

The first way: the needle with the thread is inserted into the outermost front loop, and, grabbing the rightmost back loop, is again passed into the rightmost front loop. Then the needle is inserted through the second facial loop and the outermost purl, then from the outermost purl to the second purl, then into the second facial, etc.

The second way. The needle with the thread is inserted into the front loops on the far right and the purl loops on the far right (second and first) are captured, threaded into the second and third front loops. Then the third and second purl loops are captured, threaded into the third and fourth facial loops, etc.

If loops have fallen off on single-faced knitwear, they can be restored with a reed needle (see Fig. 2.3).

The head of the reed needle is inserted from the front side into the first non-deflated loop of the column and moves up, capturing the first broach of the lowered loop. The captured broach must be pulled into the first undeflated loop, and then the next broach into the newly made loop, and so on. So a new loop column will come out. Fasten off the last loop.

If loops are lowered in several columns, you need to sequentially raise, starting from the right, each loop column.

Darning and patches on knitted sweaters, cardigans and tops look alien and sloppy, so it is better not to repair such products with needles and threads, but to bandage them, while we are not talking about a complete alteration, but only about replacing some parts.

So, worn cuffs, elastics and collars can be unraveled and tied up using the same thread, if they are still suitable for work, or yarn to match. In addition, a long-sleeved sweater can always be turned into a three-quarter sleeve model, for example.

Machine-knitted items are more difficult to unravel, as thinner threads are often used, so in order to knit or crochet the resulting yarn, you will have to take it in 3-5 additions.

Using old yarn will require you to tie the threads regularly, which causes not very neat knots on them that can ruin the appearance of the product, so they are left on the wrong side. It is best to do this in the process of knitting, but if any of the knots still turned out to be from the face of the product, it can be pulled to the wrong side with a hook.

Before mending, knitwear must be washed and dried. How to do this, we told in the corresponding chapter of our book.

Spread the prepared product, and then start working with the damaged part. Spread it on the table, find the worn area, determine its boundaries and cut the side loop in the row located 20-30 mm higher. Then pull the free end of the thread to separate the damaged fragment.

Type the open loops that appear on the knitting needle and continue to knit the fabric in the same pattern with the same yarn.If there is no such yarn, you can choose another to match or contrast, then you can change the pattern, but this should be justified by the style. The repaired parts are assembled and restored to the integrity of the product.

This method is good if you need to shorten or lengthen the product, change the style of the sleeve or replace stretched elastic bands, but what if a hole appears on your favorite sweater?

First, unlock the desired part and spread it in front of you. Then cut out the damaged area, keeping the top, bottom and side loops. You should end up with a square or rectangular hole. Collect the upper loops on a knitting needle, and the lower loops on a special knitting pin. Knit the fabric of the required size, repeating the pattern of the product detail, and leave the loops open. Thread a piece of yarn into a knitting needle and sew the open loops of the rectangle or square just knitted and the loops gathered on the pin, as shown below (fig. 84).

Rice. 84. Sewing open loops

Then lay the lines along the sides of this knitted patch, grabbing only the outer edges of the edge loops with the needle (Fig. 85). In this case, the number of rows in the part and the associated fragment must match. The repaired part is sewn to the product and steamed if the quality of the yarn and the knitting method allow it.

Rice. 85. Connection of parts with the capture of edge loops

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Repair of knitted and knitwear.

Darn - this is the same thing, but applied to knitted things. Darning is distinguished primarily by the fact that knitted fabric usually has the property of stretching. And therefore, we must place it for darning not on level ground, but on a convex one. For this purpose, there are special fungi, usually wooden or metal. At home, the darning fungus can be successfully replaced with a tablespoon.

How to darn a knitted thing? Since the knitted thing has the ability to unravel very easily and quickly, we take precautions so that during darning the loops do not begin to unravel near the darning place: before starting work, we make a circle with a “needle forward” seam around the entire place to be mended. He goes through a very strong place.

Usually, stockings, socks, mittens, gloves are darned with a sewing needle with threads of the same color as the canvas of the darned item, imposing stitches horizontally and vertically, as we see below in figures a and b. The weaving of threads is simple.

But you can darn not with straight stitches, but with arched loops, creating rows of them using the same sewing needle. It's done like this. We sew all the edges of the gap in a strong place with a “needle forward” seam (Fig. 13a) so that the hole does not grow.

Then we fix the thread on the upper left corner, tearing with a needle - loop by loop - we make the first row. Having reached the upper right corner, fasten the thread and make the second row of loops from right to left. The third row is again passed from left to right. Figure 13b shows how the third loop of the third row is obtained: the needle enters the third loop of the second row and pulls the thread down, intertwining with the thread there. There we pick up the thread with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Holding it so that the loop does not shrink, we again bring the needle up into the fourth loop of the second row, and so on. Loop after loop, row after row, the entire tear hole is covered (Fig. 13v). We fix the end of the thread at the lower corner of the former breakthrough, and remove the basting thread.

However, as you can see, the sewn place is not very similar in pattern to the entire fabric of the darned thing. Therefore, when darning outerwear and in the presence of large gaps, the second darning method is used - with the help of laying a flooring of transverse threads. We clean the gap so that the extreme loops are clearly visible and that they are strong. After that, we make the flooring: we draw transverse threads between the extreme loops of each row (Fig. 13d). We put a thread of the same color as the thing being repaired into the needle, and start the actual darning. We skip the needle from the wrong side to the front side, wrap it around the first transverse thread and go to the second transverse warp thread. We grab the second thread, go to the third and so on until the very bottom of the breakthrough. Now we go in the reverse order, from the bottom up, making the same girths of the transverse threads. At the same time, it is important that, going from top to bottom, we clasp each transverse thread from bottom to top to the right, and going from bottom to top, we clasp each transverse thread from top to bottom to the left. Thus, the impression of a braided pigtail is created, that is, the usual weaving of the front side of knitwear (Fig. 13d).

Nowadays, the ability to darn knitted things and knitwear is useful not only to every housewife, but also to any person. It's no secret that washing in automatic washing machines significantly reduces the life of things. Sometimes beloved, recently bought things are suddenly wiped and torn :-(

My son has a favorite sweatshirt that he has been wearing for several years and is not going to part, one problem is that the cuffs are worn out, and today I will show how easy I performed the operation sleeve restoration, or rather changed the cuffs.

Here they are beloved and long-suffering sleeves.

To rip off any details on knitwear is not a thankful task, holes will remain, so I cut off the cuffs along with the margin. Then we add centimeters to the height of the cuff in order to maintain the original length of the sleeve.

For new cuffs, I took a piece of knitwear from a shortened skirt. For cuffs, you can use pieces from knitted trousers, a T-shirt if it is thick enough, sweaters, or buy a piece of knitwear from a store. A piece in height is equal to two lengths of the cut off cuff plus 4 cm for allowances. The width of the cuff is equal to the width of the old cuff plus 2 cm for allowances. If the knitwear is very stretchy, it is better to reduce the width by a couple of cm. the height of the cuff matches the lobar thread. Chop the cuff along the height and give a line at a distance of 1 cm from the edge.

Read also:  Citroen xsara do-it-yourself repair

Spread the stitching seam on two sides and steam off. Fold with a seam inside and fix with pins along the edge.

Turn the sleeve inside out and insert the cuff inwards, matching the seams, slightly stretching the cuffs, prick the cuffs using the pins with which the cuffs were chipped.

Sew on the machine using a zigzag seam so that the line does not burst during further use of the product. Overcast the edge.

Done, you don’t even need to steam, the knitwear will then take the desired shape. This way sleeve restorations useful for children's clothing that needs to be lengthened, such as sleeves in a jacket or trousers.

Neat sleeves on your sweatshirts, dear needlewomen!

A great idea for needlewomen who know how to work with knitting needles and crochet, buy threads in the online store and make cuffs knitted from yarn.

Sometimes there are cases in which the knitted fabric can be damaged. Whether it was an uninvited guest, a mole took over in your closet, or hooked, tore. If the location of the defect allows, you can make an application, but it is not always appropriate. On a men's product, you definitely won’t make an application. There is an easy way to restore knitted fabric. I'll show it on a stocking knit swatch. You can use this method on simple patterns.

Of course, there is more than one way to repair knitwear, there are several ways. One of them I propose to watch in the video tutorial.