Do-it-yourself knitted sweater repair

Now I have read what I have written again and I see that I have not specified it. I am asking about knits.
-And where is it possible to “pull out” pieces of thread in a knitted product from the side?
- Most likely, you can “get” the thread by pulling out in the transverse direction - shortening the product by one / two rows.
-From Salve's answer: This repair of knit holes is done with a needle, not knitting needles.

I'll try to imagine how this is done:
1- moth-eaten ends of the threads must be cleverly tied together.
2- To do this, it is necessary to loosen the knitting around the hole to the required length of the ends, so that a knot can be formed. In this case, the hole will increase.
3- Remove open loops on a regular thread so that they do not bloom (as it was written in previous messages)
4- We see how many threads are needed
5- We dissolve in the transverse direction and “extract” the required number of centimeters of thread
6- Now you can start to restore the missing loops with a needle.

Correct me and add. Thank you.

Salve, Thank you very much for the tights thread.

Post has been edited muschka - Jun 11 2015, 09:13

Often, after prolonged socks, knitted things are torn, unraveled, the elastic band on blouses and sweaters is stretched. There is a need for repair. Plain darning or patches spoil the look of things and often make them unusable. Knowing how to knit, you can beautifully repair things so that the defects will not be noticeable. If things are very worn out, they can be loosened and knitted again by adding remnants of wool of a different color. In every home there are balls of colored thread that can be used to decorate the things that are being tied.

Before you start repairing knitted items, you need to wash them. For washing knitted items, washing powders and soap shavings are used. The water is heated to 30 degrees and ammonia is added there (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). When washing, woolen things must not be rubbed, twisted - from this they lose their original shape and fall off strongly, which makes them unsuitable for repair and bandaging. The washed product is rinsed in warm water, wrung out without twisting. After that, the thing is laid out on the fabric and given the desired shape. The details of the gum do not stretch during washing and spinning, but slightly squeeze.

Iron the knitted items from the inside out through a wet cloth. Things knitted with openwork and embossed patterns are not ironed. After washing, they are laid out on the fabric, leaving to dry. Knitted blouses, dresses, sweaters should not be hung on a hanger, this makes them stretch. Store them folded.

After the product has been washed and ironed, the repair is started. First of all, the worn part is separated: for this, the product is ripped apart at the seams, and then at the beginning of the row located 2-3 cm above the worn out place, the loop is cut and the end of the thread is picked up with your fingers, it is carefully pulled out and the thread is cut off. The worn part falls off and the main part of the product remains with a new row of free loops. The released loops are put on a knitting needle and knitted in the opposite direction.

Figure 578. Pulling the thread

Figure 579. Releasing a part of the product from the damaged area

Figure 580. Released stitches on a knitting needle

In this way, you can lengthen the thing, tie up stretched or blooming elastic bands. If the wool is not enough, the elastic can be made striped, choosing colors that are in harmony with the main color.

1. REPAIR OF JUMPER OR SWEATSHIRT

If the jumper is badly worn (lost its shape, the sleeves are frayed, the elastic band is strongly stretched), start the repair by dissolving the product along the seams of the part.After that, wash and dry each part separately. Then you need to cut out all the worn out areas without breaking the loops.

Free the upper and lower sides of the hole obtained from the cut threads and put on the free loops on the knitting needle, and the loops of the upper row are transferred to the working thread, and the loops of the lower row to the pin. Next, knit a new square from the top side of the hole, while maintaining the product pattern. When the square is connected, all the loops of the last row are connected with a needle to the loops of the lower side of the hole, as shown in the figure.

Figure 582. Joining stitches with a needle

Figure 583. Sewing outer edge loops

Then the sides of the square are sewn with the sides of the knitted hole, turning the sleeve inside out. So that the seam is not visible, carefully align the details row to row, loop to loop, using threads of the main color. We sew the outer edges of the edge loops of both sides of the parts with each other so that the edges coincide.

After repair, the sleeve is steamed (except for the sleeve with an elastic band and a relief pattern)

Woolen socks and stockings often have heels and toes torn. Instead of the usual darning, socks or stockings can be tied on, which is much stronger and more beautiful.

When repairing the heel, the worn part is cut out according to the method described in the repair of the sleeve. Release the loops from the cut ends of the threads, put the loops of the upper part of the hole on one knitting needle, and the loops of the lower part on the other two, picking up several loops from the sides of the heel.

Figure 584. Toe with a worn heel

Figure 585. Catching stitches on three knitting needles

Then we begin to knit only the upper side of the cut with stocking knitting. At the same time, with each new row, together with the last loop, we knit one of the loops dialed on the side knitting needles. Thus, they knit until both sides of the hole converge, after which they knit another 10 rows without changes and proceed to making the heel cap (Figure 584) in the same way as when knitting a sock. When the heel is tied and takes the shape of a cap, the loops from the middle of the heel are connected (see “Repairing a Jumper or Jacket”) to the middle loops of the bottom hole. The loops remaining on the sides are sewn to the side parts of the heel.

The repair of the toe is done as follows: the worn part is cut off, the loops are freed from the cut ends, put on 4 knitting needles and tied, as described in the lesson “Knitting socks”.

3. REPAIR OF GLOVES AND MITTENS

Fingertips wear out most quickly in gloves and mittens.

The repair begins with the removal of the damaged part. Release the loops from the cut ends of the threads. The released loops are placed on 3 knitting needles. Next, the finger is tied to the required length.

Figure 587. Tying a finger on a glove

Figure 588. Repair of gloves, knitted on 2 needles

Lowering the finger is done by knitting 2 loops together at the beginning of each knitting needle.

A worn-out elastic band of gloves and mittens is repaired in the same way as an elastic band of a blouse and jumper.

If, when loosening an old product, the loops are difficult to free from each other, they should be helped with a crochet or needle.

Joining parts is the most important part of making knitted garments. Therefore, when loosening or re-tying the product, carefully check that the parts of the product are evenly sewn together.

We already talked about knitting raglan in the article Knitting products with raglan sleeves. In this article we will look at examples of specific things like.

1. DRESS WITH BUTTERFLIES Figure 589. Dress size 30-32 is made from 400 g of wool yarn No. 32/2, connected in 5 threads. Needles 2.5.

There are various ways to "prolong the life" of your favorite thing, so we will tell you how to implement repair of knitwear.

If there are any defects (scuffs, holes), the item can be repaired by removing the damaged area and tying the missing part. The defective area must be separated along the loop rows, which are located below and above the damage.

It is possible to remove the damaged part of the part by cutting the thread along the looped row and pulling it out of the looped posts. The stretched thread must be cut so that the free end is 2-3 cm long.

You can cut the part exactly along the stitch row, remove the damaged part and clean the edges of the section from the cut threads (loops). The released loops must be put on the knitting needles and the missing section must be tied.

To connect the main part with the knitted part, the loop-to-loop method is used, while the direction of knitting does not matter.

If there is a certain pattern in the product, it is necessary to correct the knitting direction with the pattern (see Fig. 1).

The lengthening of the parts is carried out in the same way. When completely replacing the lower part of the part, you need to put the loops on the knitting needles and knit to the required length.

If it is only necessary to shorten the product a little, the excess is not cut off: the bottom needs to be folded and hemmed.

If you need to reduce the length by more than 2-3 cm, the product is shortened, the edge is overcast, the bottom of the thing is folded and hemmed.

As a rule, in knitwear, the bottom of the cuffs and the belt wears out.

Loops (broken) can be closed in two ways: stretch and non-stretch.

The first method: a needle with a thread is inserted into the extreme front loop, and, grasping the right-most purl loop, is again passed into the right-most front loop. Then the needle is inserted through the second front loop and the extreme purl, then from the extreme purl to the second purl, then into the second facial, etc.

Second way. A needle with a thread is inserted into the rightmost front loops and the rightmost purl loops (second and first) are captured, threaded into the second and third front loops. Then the third and second purl loops are captured, threaded into the third and fourth front loops, etc.

If the loops have come down on a single-face knitwear, they can be restored with a tongue needle (see Fig. 2,3).

The head of the reed needle is inserted from the front side into the first unlocked loop of the post and moves upward, capturing the first broach of the loosened loop. The captured broach must be pulled into the first loose loop, and then the next broach into the newly made loop, and so on. This will create a new hinge post. Fasten the last eyelet.

If the loops are lowered in several columns, you need to sequentially raise, starting from the right, each looped column.

Darning and patches on knitted sweaters, cardigans and tops look alien and sloppy, so it is better not to repair such products with needles and threads, but to tie them up, and this is not a complete alteration, but only the replacement of some parts.

For example, worn cuffs, elastic bands and collars can be loosened and tied using the same thread, if they are still good for work, or yarn to match. In addition, a sweater with long sleeves can always be turned into, for example, a three-quarter sleeve model.

Machine knitting is more difficult to loosen as thinner threads are often used, so to knit or crochet with the resulting yarn, you will have to take 3-5 folds.

Using old yarn will require you to regularly tie the threads, which is why not very neat knots appear on them, which can ruin the appearance of the product, so they are left on the wrong side. It is best to do this in the process of knitting, but if any of the knots nevertheless turned out to be from the face of the product, it can be crocheted to the wrong side.

Knitwear must be washed and dried before being repaired. We described how to do this in the corresponding chapter of our book.

Open the prepared product, then start working with the damaged part. Spread it on the table, find the worn out area, define its borders and cut the side loop in the row located 20-30 mm higher. Then pull the free end of the thread to separate the damaged section.

The open loops that appear, type on a knitting needle and continue to knit the fabric with the same pattern with the same yarn.If there is no such yarn, you can choose another to match or contrast, then you can change the pattern, but this must be justified by the style. Repaired parts are reassembled and restored to the integrity of the product.

This method is good if you need to shorten or lengthen the product, change the style of the sleeves or replace stretched elastic bands, but what if a hole appears on your favorite sweater?

First, kick off the part you want and spread it out in front of you. Then cut out the damaged area, keeping the top, bottom and side loops. You should have a square or rectangular hole. Collect the upper loops on a knitting needle, and the lower loops on a special knitting pin. Tie the fabric of the required size, repeating the pattern of the detail of the product, and leave the loops open. Thread a piece of yarn into a jersey needle and sew the open loops of the rectangle or square you just knit and the pinned loops as shown below (fig. 84).

Rice. 84. Sewing open loops

Then sew along the sides of this crochet patch, seizing only the outer edges of the hem loops with the needle (fig. 85). In this case, the number of rows in the part and in the linked fragment must be the same. The repaired part is sewn to the product and steamed if the quality of the yarn and the knitting method allow it.

Rice. 85. Joining parts with gripping edge loops

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Repair of knitted and crocheted items.

Darn - this is the same thing, but applied to knitted things. Darning is distinguished primarily by the fact that knitted fabric usually has the property of stretching. And therefore, we must place it for darning not on level ground, but on a convex one. For this purpose, there are special fungi, usually wood or metal. At home, the darning fungus can be successfully replaced with a tablespoon.

How to mend a knitted thing? Since the knitted garment has the ability to unravel very easily and quickly, we take precautions so that no loops near the darning place begin to unravel during darning: before starting work, make a circle with a needle forward stitch around the entire area to be repaired. He walks through a completely strong place.

Usually stockings, socks, mittens, gloves are darned using a sewing needle with threads of the same color as the fabric of the darned thing, superimposing stitches horizontally and vertically, as we see below in figures a and b. The interlacing of the threads is simple.

But you can also darn not with straight stitches, but with arcuate loops, creating rows from them using the same sewing needle. This is done like this. We sew all the edges of the gap along a strong place with a needle-forward seam (Fig. 13a) so that the hole does not grow.

Then we fasten the thread on the upper left corner, tearing with a needle - loop by loop - we make the first row. Having reached the upper right corner, we fasten the thread and make the second row of loops from right to left. We pass the third row again from left to right. Figure 13b shows how the third loop of the third row is obtained: the needle enters the third loop of the second row and pulls the thread down, intertwining with the thread there. There we grab the thread with the thumb and forefinger of our left hand. Holding it so that the loop does not tighten, we again bring the needle up, into the fourth loop of the second row, and so on. Loop by loop, row by row, the entire tear hole closes (fig. 13v). We fix the end of the thread at the bottom corner of the former breakthrough, and remove the basting thread.

However, as we can see, the sewn-up place is not very similar in pattern to the entire canvas of the darned thing. Therefore, when mending outerwear and in the presence of large gaps, the second method of darning is used - by laying the flooring from transverse threads. We clean the gap so that the outer hinges are clearly visible and that they are strong. After that, we make the flooring: we draw transverse threads between the extreme loops of each row (Fig. 13d). We put a thread of the same color as the item to be repaired into the needle and start the actual darning. We pass the needle from the inside out to the front side, wrap it around the first transverse thread and move on to the second transverse thread of the warp. We grab the second thread, move on to the third, and so on until the very bottom of the breakout. Now we go in the reverse order, from bottom to top, making the same girths of the transverse threads. It is important that, going from top to bottom, we grab each transverse thread from bottom to top to the right, and going from bottom to top, we grab each transverse thread from top to bottom to the left. Thus, the impression of a braided pigtail is created, that is, the usual weaving of the front side of jerseys (Fig. 13d).

Nowadays, the ability to darn knitted things and knitwear is useful not only for every housewife, but also for any person. It's no secret that washing in automatic washing machines significantly reduces the service life of things. Sometimes loved ones, recently purchased things are suddenly wiped and torn :-(

My son has a favorite sweatshirt, which he has been wearing for several years and is not going to part, one problem wiped his cuffs, and today I will show how easy it was for me to perform the operation sleeve restoration, or rather changed the cuffs.

Here are the beloved and long-suffering sleeves.

To rip off any details on the knitwear is not a gratifying thing, there will be holes, therefore, together with the stock, I cut off the cuffs. Then we add centimeters to the height of the cuff in order to preserve the original length of the sleeve.

For new cuffs, I took a piece of knitwear from a skirt that was once shortened. For the cuffs, you can use pieces from jersey pants, a T-shirt if it is thick enough, sweaters, or buy a piece of jersey from a store. A piece in height is equal to two lengths of the cut off cuff plus 4 cm for allowances. The width of the cuff is equal to the width of the old cuff plus 2 cm for allowances. If the jersey stretches strongly, it is better to reduce the width by a couple of cm. the height of the cuff matches the lobar thread. Chip the cuff along the height and give a line at a distance of 1 cm from the edge.

Read also:  DIY volleyball repair

Spread the seam seam on two sides and steam. Fold with a seam inward and secure with pins along the edge.

Turn out the sleeve and insert the cuffs inside, aligning the seams, slightly stretching the cuffs, stick in the cuffs using the pins with which the cuffs were cleaved.

Stitch on the machine using a zigzag seam so that the line does not burst during further use of the product. Overcast edge.

Done, you don't even need to steam, the jersey will then take the desired shape. This way sleeve restoration useful for children's clothes that need to be lengthened, for example, sleeves in a jacket or trousers.

Neat sleeves for your sweatshirts, dear needlewomen!

A great idea for needlewomen who know how to work with knitting needles and crochet, buy threads in the online store and make cuffs knitted from yarn.

Sometimes there are cases in which the knitted fabric can be damaged. Whether it is an uninvited guest, a mole ruled in your closet, or caught, tore. If the location of the defect allows, you can make an appliqué, but it is not always appropriate. You will definitely not make an applique on a man's product. There is an easy way to restore a knitted fabric. I will show it on a hosiery sample. You can also use this method on simple patterns.

Of course, there is more than one way to repair jersey, there are several ways. I propose to watch one of them in the video tutorial.