DIY bosch trimmer repair

An electric scythe or a trimmer, like any electric tool, has a limited service life. With an increase in the intensity of operation, for various reasons, the life of the device decreases.

You should be prepared that at any time during operation, the electric scythe can break, but such situations can be avoided if you regularly disassemble, inspect and revise all important elements of the scythe.

Malfunctions of electric scythes can be very diverse, it can be either a breakdown in the electrical part of the engine and wiring, as well as in the mechanical part.

In most cases, it is not difficult to repair a trimmer or scythe and you can do it yourself if there is a minimum tool and basic concepts in technology. Well, for the readers of the site elektt.blogspot.com, I will reveal the main faults and secrets for quick and reliable repair of your electric scythe, consider an example of repairing Bosch and Gardener electric scythes.

The design of most electric braids is not a complex device, the main components, be it a trimmer or braid, are an electric motor, a power wire, a button with a capacitor, a spool with a line that is fixed to the motor shaft or more complex mechanical options for braids where torque from the engine is transmitted to the spool through flexible shaft, but among electric options for braids, this option is rare.

To identify faults in the electrical part, as a rule, only one inspection is not enough; you need a multimeter or at least a tester with a continuity.
Such malfunctions are characterized, as a rule, by the complete inoperability of the engine, severe overheating or jerky operation.

The check begins with the power cable, if it is damaged, it is either repaired or replaced.
Express check involves checking the voltage of 220 volts at the engine contacts.

The voltage should appear when the button is pressed, if the voltage is present, then we can safely say that the trimmer motor is faulty, it must be disconnected and carefully inspected.
Slight contamination of the collector plates and brushes is normal, but it is still better to clean it with a soft cloth moistened with alcohol; if the brushes are clearly worn out, it is better to replace them.

Using a multimeter in the resistance test mode (the smallest limit is Ohms), touch the contacts of the brushes or the graphite brushes themselves with the probes, the tester should show a resistance of no more than 100 Ohms.

If the resistance is infinite (unit on a multimeter), then try to turn the motor shaft without removing the probes.
In a working electric motor, the resistance wakes up about 10 - 40 Ohm, if the brushes do not ring out, then there is no contact or the integrity of the stator windings is broken, possibly an open or burnout.
When the resistance is less than 5 ohms, there is an interspeed short circuit, most likely caused by a strong overheating of the engine.

The following procedure can be used to identify the specific cause of a motor malfunction when the motor brushes are not ringing.
The graphite brushes must be pulled out by first pushing out the brass inserts or removing the hold-down springs.

The collector motors in these devices are arranged in such a way that the stator and rotor windings are connected in series, and in expensive models of electric motors a thermal relay is also connected to this serial circuit (110 degrees), such a relay in normal conditions keeps the power contact closed.
A separate diagnostic method is to check the resistance on the collector drum plates.

To identify the culprit of the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the insulation in the form of cambric from the fluoroplastic where the windings and the thermal relay are connected and ring each winding separately with a multimeter, as well as the thermal relay itself.

The most loaded mechanical elements of electric scythes are bearings and a trimer reel (spool).
In most cases, the device stops mowing due to the failure of its line spool.

The line has run out. According to the instructions provided, you should wind the fishing line on a spool.

The line is tangled. If the reel has not received damage, then you need to cut or unwind the line and, if necessary, rewind the entire spool.

The line is stuck together. Due to the rather intense work and high overheating, the plastic lines of the fishing line can fuse with each other. It is necessary to rewind the spool with new line and inspect the damage to the bobbin itself.

The motor is running but the line spool does not rotate. Most likely, there was damage to the structure of the reel with line. The spool bottom attachment points can break off, you need to completely disassemble the bobbin and, if necessary, modify the mount or replace it altogether. In most electric trimmers, the bobbin is simply pressed by its plastic housing onto the motor shaft and, if overheated, when the plastic melts, it can turn and fly off altogether.

Both devices showed no signs of life, in the on state the engines did not work.

The case for both devices consists of two halves, the self-tapping screws are on one side, which is convenient for disassembly.
After all the screws are unscrewed, the upper case is separated from the lower one by gently pressing it into the slot with a flat screwdriver to open the interlocked plastic locks.

After disassembling, we proceed to inspect the insides and troubleshoot.

During the inspection, it was found on the engine trimmer Bosch, on one of the brushes, which is fixed by a pressure spring, a copper conductive wire flew off, which naturally was the reason for the absence of voltage on the brushes and the motor did not rotate.

The wire was restored to its place, and along the way the collector pads were cleaned, with a soft cloth soaked in alcohol, to a copper sheen. The brushes were in good condition and did not need replacement.

It was also found that the switch does not create a reliable electrical contact, it was necessary to clamp the button with effort, it was decided to disassemble the button, its contacts were cleaned of carbon deposits and lubricated with KONTAKT S-61 current protective spray.

WITH electric scythe GARDENER it was not so simple, she lay for quite a long time in a broken state, and in the literal sense of the word “broken”, her rod at the engine casing was broken in half, apparently so difficult were the conditions of her operation.

With the help of perforated plates from the metal profile mountings, a new mount of the engine body to the electric braid bar was not cleverly made. The integrity of the structure has been restored, albeit not in aesthetic, but in a reliable way, because in an electric brace, its main function is its functionality.

The engine shaft was turning noticeably hard; an internal examination revealed burnt collector plates and worn brushes. The plates were sanded to a shine and the brushes were replaced with new ones.

In view of the long operation without lubrication and subsequent storage of the device in an aggressive environment, the bearings are a little stuck and the motor shaft rotates unnaturally with difficulty.
The engine bearings were washed with WD-40 spray followed by lubrication. As a result, the engine began to rotate noticeably better, but still the bearings were already “broken” and when the engine was running on mains, the sound of its operation was not so smooth and monotonous.

Further inspection of the electrical part led to the button, it was completely broken from its mountings, although it was pressed, but the tester showed its malfunction. The button is not collapsible, so it was replaced with a new one.The fasteners had to be restored with hot melt glue.

In addition to the broken bar, there was a crack on the plastic protection, apparently someone did not drop it weakly. The scythe could work with it, but it was decided, as far as possible, to restore the protection structure.

Naturally, simply gluing such a loaded and impact-prone object with glue would not be a reliable solution. Therefore, using the same perforated plates from the metal profile, two brackets were made that created a “monolithic” connection between the two parts of the cracked body.
The plates were connected to the body with aluminum rivets.

When the brushcutter was assembled, it was found that the bar at the points of attachment of the handle was poorly fixed and rotated, therefore, the places where the plastic protrusions of the handle body were pressed against the metal of the bar were additionally sealed with a strip of cloth tape. Now the design has no extra backlash.

The spool (spool) runs out of line. In most spools, the net feed is semi-automatic, with a light hit of the spring-loaded button on the ground, the line is fed to the exit. If the line does not feed, then you need to remove and disassemble the spool - spool and, if necessary, wind new line.

The line may be too long due to the fact that the blade, which is designed for cutting excess line along the length, is dull or not at all.
The length of the line should be slightly less than the diameter of the protection.

A large hum and vibration during engine operation may indicate that the bearings need lubrication or they have completely used up their resource.
Also, the body of the reel with the line (spool) may be cracked, and its attachment point must be inspected for cracks and damage.

Most of the electric motors in the scythes and trimmers are collector-type and do not have a speed controller; with a decrease in the voltage in the network, the speed and power decrease.
The line spool may not be wound correctly.
Perhaps the turns are hampered by the presence of a stuck twig or a rope is wound around the shaft, you should inspect the structure. In a working spit, the shaft should turn easily and without the slightest effort, even after it has been dispersed with a finger.

Does the engine not turn? We look at the presence of power on the plug, if everything is in order, then the device needs to be disassembled.
If no obvious damage is noticeable, then a sequential continuity of the electrical circuits of the device begins.

Using a multimeter (tester), first ring out the power cord, the fuse, if there is one, and the button.
If the button does not ring in the on state, then it should be replaced or if it is collapsible, then open and clean the burnt contacts.

The cord may be broken, in which case the engine may intermittently start.
An engine malfunction may be the fact that when the button is turned on, there is a voltage of 220 volts on the engine contacts, but it does not rotate.

Some electric motors are equipped with a thermal fuse that is built into the motor housing and tripped from overheating or simply failed. A working thermal fuse must restore its operation when the engine cools down.

A petrol or electric trimmer is the only solution for mowing grass in hard-to-reach places that a wheeled lawnmower cannot handle. As a cutting tool in trimmers, metal knives or a special fishing line are used, which is tucked into the trimmer coil. But, unfortunately, trimmer heads become unusable over time during operation. Some malfunctions can be eliminated by hand, and some require a complete replacement of the mowing head.

Trimmer mowing heads come in a variety of designs, both simple and complex. The picture below shows semi-automatic trimmer head from Husqvarna brushcutters (Husqvarna) disassembled.

This type of head is present in the complete set of most mowers and electric trimmers, such as Stihl (Calm), Patriot (Patriot), Champion (Champion), Bosch (Bosch), Huter (Hooter) and others. The device of the mowing head is quite simple. It includes the following details:

• mowing head base;
• button for semi-automatic cord feed;
• bobbin (spool) into which the fishing line is tucked;
• spring;
• eyes - through them the line comes out;
• trimmer head cover;
• fishing line (cord).

There are also simpler trim heads shown in the following photo.

All these attachments do not allow changing the length of the line in a semi-automatic mode (after pressing a button). If the cord breaks, you have to stop the mower and change it manually.

Electric trimmer and petrol cutter users often face a problem with a semi-automatic cutterhead. Coil malfunctions can be as follows:

• the line does not lengthen automatically;
• the cord spontaneously comes out of the reel.

If the line does not lengthen when you lightly hit the trimmer button on the ground, then the reasons for this may be the following.

Option 1 - a bite has occurred, i.e. clamping the cord between turns... This problem usually appears if the user has been winding the line on the reel unevenly, with intersecting turns, or winding it with insufficient tension. In the latter case, when the mowing head rotates at high speeds under the influence of centrifugal force, the cord begins to tighten, as a result of which inter-turn clamping of the fishing line is possible. To fix the problem, you will have to disassemble the coil on the trimmer and rewind the cord correctly, that is, in even turns with good tension.

Option 2 - too short ends protrude from the head... The line may not come out when hitting the ground if the ends sticking out of the head are not long enough (short). In this case, the centrifugal force is not enough to stretch the line. Therefore, it is required to stop the unit (turn off the engine or disconnect the electric trimmer from the mains) and pull out the line manually after pressing the button.

Option 3 - the line is soldered inside the mowing head... This causes the coil to lock and not spin when the button is pressed. Basically, this happens for several reasons: poor quality of the cord, overheating of the coil during prolonged operation of the unit, hitting the line against solid objects.

1. In the first case, third-party cord can be made of low-quality and low-melting materials that cannot withstand mechanical and thermal stress. Therefore, you should give preference to "branded" lines.
2. But, if you nevertheless purchased a fishing line of unknown quality, and it is often soldered during operation, then you can follow the example of some users who, after threading the cord into the reel, wet it either silicone grease (from a spray can), or mineral oil. This procedure greatly reduces the likelihood of the coils of the fishing line being soldered together.
3. Also, the line can be soldered if it hits a hard object (stone, fence, dry branch, etc.) during mowing. As a result, it stretches slightly and is pulled back into the head at high speed. From friction, the cord heats up, and its turns stick together. The only thing that can be done to eliminate this malfunction is to open the trimmer coil and rewind the line.

There are situations when the trimmer user notices very fast line consumption... However, he never hit the ground with a button to lengthen the line. The reason that the line spontaneously lengthens, being cut on a special knife on the casing of the apparatus, may be no spring in the mowing head. Often, novice users of mowers, trying to load the line into the reel, forget to install the pressure spring in the head, or completely lose it when opening the lid, and in the future, do not even know about its existence.

Also, the line can be lengthened without using a button if the spring is loose. If checking the spring has confirmed this fact, then several washers must be placed under it in order to enhance its clamping properties.

Trimmer owners, mostly newbies, find themselves in confusion, bordering on panic, when the need arises to change the cutter or line in the reel. Very often, when trying to unscrew the mowing head, users simply render it unusable, not suspecting that it is unscrewing in the opposite direction.... To prevent this from happening, if you need to replace the tool, we recommend that you read the step-by-step instructions below.

Stop the brushcutter engine or power off the electric trimmer before threading the line into the spool to avoid injury from accidental starting rotation of the cutting tool.

Unscrew the attachment attached to the gear shaft... To do this, the shaft must be fixed by aligning the holes on the washer and on the axle, and inserting a metal rod or screwdriver into them.

Unscrew the attachment. You should be aware that the thread on the shaft is left-hand. Therefore, turn the trimmer coil to the right, that is, clockwise.

Disassemble the mowing head. Most often, the head cover is attached on latches... To remove it, you will need to sink these latches into the case, squeezing the edges of the cover. If your trimmer has a semi-automatic mowing head with a button on the bottom, then the disassembly of the attachment should be done carefully, since you can lose the spring, which sometimes flies out when the cover is removed.

Cut off the required amount of line. Usually its length is 5 meters. Use a cord of the same diameter as indicated in the instructions for the tool. It is not recommended to exceed the maximum line diameter as this will result in increased engine load and higher gas mileage.

Find the midpoint of the line by folding it in half. This will create a loop.

Coils are cut inside special grooves (there may be holes). Insert a loop of line into this groove.

Wind the line around the spool by turning it counterclockwise. It is necessary to fill in the cord as evenly as possible, the turns should lie down without overlap and with good tension. When the winding is finished, leave free ends of the line about 20 cm long and fix them in the grooves on the sides of the reel.

Assemble the mowing head. Before you finally assemble the attachment, be sure to insert spring and washer (if available). Place the spool in the body and thread the ends of the cord through the holes or lugs.

Put on the cover and secure it with the latches.

Screw the adapter back onto the gearbox shaft, also securing it with a screwdriver. You will need to twist the trimmer coil to the left (counter-clockwise).

There are a large number of trimmer heads (not automatic) on sale, which are of low price and good quality. But sometimes situations arise, for example, in the country, when the trimmer coil has broken down and it is impossible to repair it, the store is far away, but it is necessary to mow. In this case, you can quickly, literally in a few minutes, make a simple trimmer attachment for fixing the fishing line from ordinary plywood with a thickness of 10-12 mm.

1. Take a piece of plywood or PCB and draw a circle about 14 cm in diameter on it.
2. Use a jigsaw or metal saw to cut the disc.
3. Drill a hole in the center of the disc that matches the diameter of the gearbox shaft. Do not forget to put a washer on it before installing the disc on the shaft.
4. Small corners can be screwed on the edges of the disc or 1-2 holes can be made on opposite sides. They will serve for refueling the fishing line in them.
5. Several screws can be screwed into the plywood to secure the line.

This homemade mowing attachment is attached to the shaft. with a nut... It will not work to tighten or unscrew the nut without fixing the shaft.To replace the cord, it will be enough to loosen the screws, insert a piece of line of the required length and press it down again.

Also, a mowing attachment for attaching a fishing line to it can be made from a metal sheet. How to do this can be understood from the following video.

Who can come in handy. BOSCH trimmer repair ART 26 Combitrim or 30
The figovina fell off on which spools with fishing line are put on.
We disassemble, we give the anchor to a familiar turner, he drills a hole by 4, and at the figovina we saw off the ledge, in this case, flush.
It will not be superfluous to change the bearings. Next, we collect everything. A couple of little nuances.
1) now you can cut only with a spool with a large line, for my tasks it's normal, I don't know how to anyone
2) it seems to have collected everything right. but even the pedal sticks, which changes the angle of inclination of the "head", in principle, it doesn’t care, but it’s inconvenient, I’ll watch
3) do not lose the small spring ring, put under the bearing in the brush unit

I have worked at 2 sites since 2008, I think it's very good.

the sweetness of honey is not justified by a bee sting

Dear visitor!

This material will be a continuation already published on the blog post in which I told how I bought a Bosch electric trimmer and literally after a short time of use it broke.

Now I will tell and show in photographic materials, how to repair the "pimple" on the rotating part of the engine of this electric trimmer. The weakest point in this unit is just the "pimp", with the help of which there is a forced renewal (throwing out) of the fishing line when it hits the surface of the soil, mowed sod or other hard surface during mowing.

A little background, just in case, for new blog visitors ... After several haircuts (how many I didn't count), with the next line update (hitting the sod), the "pimp" jumped out of the fixed hook on the hairpin and bounced so far that I had to look for it in the grass.

Then I decided to publish a post about the unreliability of the electric trimmer with such a "pimp" design and, by the way, saved a lot of money for many readers of my mailing list. But some subscribers have already bought such a "unit" and were upset that the material was published late, otherwise they would not have bought this trimmer for anything.

Well dear friend, I don’t know who and what uses at their dacha or personal plot. I had such an incident with this electric trimmer, and I hastened to tell about it. Anyone who is lucky and they read that post before buying this trimmer model, they saved! Unlucky ones - it's not my fault.

However, There is a way out of this situation - this "pimp" can be repaired and it is not so difficult and much cheaper than buying a new trimmer. I suspect that the design features of this model were originally designed in such a way that in the event of a minor breakdown, it could not be repaired, and the purchase of a new trimmer was required, which brought and brings great profit to the manufacturer.

No, I in no way, I do not want to stipulate the Bosch company, she has almost all of her power tools of excellent quality. For a number of years I myself have been using a perforator and a Bosch screwdriver and am delighted with their smooth and high-quality work. But in the case of the electric trimmer, the designers still need to modify all the units and parts so that they can be quickly repaired.

Now, actually, to the point ...

After the "Boshevsky unit" broke down, I quickly bought a new electric trimmer, because you can't explain to the grass, that, they say, wait not to grow, my trimmer is broken. With a new trimmer, he was cutting the grass on the site, and Bosch was lying in the garage and gathering dust. No matter how much I racked my head over fixing it at home, or, as they say now, “on my knee,” nothing worked for me.

Then I decided to call my brother and ask him to think about repairing this "pimp".The point here is that the line with the drum is freely fixed in the casing of the rotating platform, as before. But without a hook with this "pimp", the line from the drum jumps out (flies out) spontaneously and it is impossible to cut.

The brother agreed to help with the repair, and we brought him our poor fellow. After a successful repair, by making structural changes to the attachment of this "pimp" to the rotating trimmer platform, I was able to use it and still use it to this day. True, the line has to be renewed manually, releasing the drum of their hook with the platform.

Now read carefully and thoughtfully, if you are going to repair such a unit. I will try to explain everything clearly in words and back them up with pictures, since I do not have any videos on this topic, as well as a drawing of the cylinder, with which the electric trimmer was repaired. My brother did everything himself, I did not participate in the repairs ...

This is what the assembled pimple mount looks like.

This is how the hole with the sweat looks in the head of the "pimple".

In the photo below, a bolt with a sweat (countersunk head). The total length of the bolt is 8-10 millimeters. The shape of the cap should be exactly that, because then the bolt itself does not protrude from the head and the height of the grass to be cut will be minimal.

If the head of the bolt protrudes even a few millimeters above the head, then this ledge will constantly cling to the soil and it will be very inconvenient to mow. Since all the time it will be necessary to raise the trimmer from one area, and move it to another, pulling it vertically up and lowering it also vertically.

Whereas with this shape of the bolt and its location flush in the head of the "pimp", the movement of the trimmer is made by sliding this "pimp" on the grass horizontally. That is, the haircut will be done as if the trimmer is new.

Now read even more carefully, because I will tell and show about the cylinder, which was made by my brother instead of the hairpin, on which this most ill-fated "pimp" was attached and, in fact, was attached to the snot ...

As you can see in the photo below, cylinder length 14 mm. A through hole with a diameter of 2 mm was drilled in the lower part of the cylinder. (this was the diameter of the stud), the length of the hole was 7 mm, that is, half of the cylinder.

The top of the cylinder was threaded for a 5 mm bolt. and the same length - 7 mm. By the way, the diameter of the thread inside the cylinder can be any (more or less - it doesn't matter), but it must be such that the bolt screwed securely into this thread and tightly attracts the head of the "pimple" to the cylinder.

The carving in the photo is not very clear, but still.

Gaps of even a couple of millimeters are not allowed here! It is necessary to exclude any dangling of the "pimp" on the cylinder, because then (attention!) The hook of the outer protrusions on this "pimp" with the protrusions on the inner part of the drum with the fishing line will not occur. And when you turn on the trimmer for the first time, the line will spontaneously pull out of the drum, and there can be no talk of any haircut.

Now further, ... how to fix this cylinder to the factory stud?

I'll tell you in words, because this work was done by my brother, and there are no pictures about this. The hairpin itself is shortened (sawn off) by a length of 8 mm from the base of the rotating platform. Then a cylinder with a hole length of 7mm is put on it. Then the 1 mm stud protrusion inside the cylinder is expanded (flattened) and thus holds the cylinder in place.

In theory, before putting the cylinder on the cut off part of the hairpin, you can apply a waterproof quick-drying glue to the stud so that the cylinder is held not only by the upper flattened part of the stud, but also by the glue.

Now about the location of the "pimp" on the trimmer shaft ...

In the two photos below, I captured the side grooves on the shaft, and it was no coincidence that I did this. The point here is that (attention!) The protrusions on the inner part of the "pimpa" should be inserted into long grooves, and not into short ones, for the same simple reason - again there will be no snagging of protrusions on the inner part of the drum with a fishing line and protrusions on the outer part "Pimps".

Forced ejection of the line from the drum and is based on the fact that when cutting grass, the hook between the protrusions on the inner part of the drum and the outer part of the "pimpa" is made in one tier. And when it is necessary to renew the fishing line in view of its abrasion, the summer resident strikes a "pimp" on a hard surface, this pimp goes deeper into the drum, thereby making a hook on other protrusions inside the drum.

I forgot to tell you that on the inside of the drum there are TWO rows of protrusions - lower and upper. One row of the drum protrusions serves to engage the pimpa protrusions only for cutting, and the other only for forced line ejection.

Here, in principle, is the whole story about repairing a Bosch electric trimmer with such a design feature of fastening the ill-fated "pimp". I understand that anyone who does not have such a trimmer will not face this problem, so you shouldn't bother with this material either.

And who has such a trimmer, but it has not broken yet, and God forbid, (I spit three times over my left shoulder and knock on wood), then to my great regret, sooner or later it will still break (this is the design of this trimmer model) and they will have a choice - repair this trimmer with your own hands according to the materials of this post or buy a new one.

In short, it will turn out like this ...

We made a cylinder with a length of 14 mm. - a through hole with a diameter of 2 mm was drilled inside. (stud thickness), 7 mm long. On the other side of the cylinder, a thread with a diameter of 5 mm was cut. and a length of 7 mm. (a bolt with sweat is screwed into this part of the cylinder). Then the pin was cut by 8 mm, the cylinder was put on and the upper part of the pin was flattened inside the cylinder.

The cylinder is now securely in place instead of the hairpin. Then we put a "pimp" on the cylinder and screw it tightly to the cylinder using a bolt with sweat. Then we fix the drum with the line on the rotating platform and that's it, the trimmer is ready to cut!

Dear visitor, if suddenly you still have questions, then write in the comments to the post.

08/20/16 06:50 AM Reply to message Bosh trimmer repair user Zhark

The info-line specialists will be happy to help you find the nearest authorized service center. Call the info line:

Or fill out an online repair order.

do not shout at me! I am also a person.

08/20/16 11:09 AM Reply to message Repair Bosh trimmer user Zhark

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08/20/16 4:32 PM Reply to post Re: Bosh trimmer repair user gaston

08/20/16 18:48 Reply to post Re: Bosh trimmer repair user Zhark

Collapsed - the part that holds the bushing with the line is worn out, right?
I have a strong belief that all trimmers have this knot designed to fall apart or break after a couple of years of operation.

08/20/16 7:23 PM Reply to post Re: Bosh trimmer repair user gaston

08/20/16 7:25 PM Reply to message Repair Bosh trimmer user Zhark

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In my humble opinion
Έλληνες του Πόντου

08/20/16 09:21 PM Reply to post Re: Bosh trimmer repair user Alippa

I am not calling anyone to anything, you have your own experience ..

08/21/16 06:02 AM Reply to post Re: Bosh trimmer repair user gaston

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Corrected by user Zhark (8/21/16 06:07 AM)

08/21/16 09:44 AM Reply to message Bosh trimmer repair user Zhark

It also flew from me, as it was collected back.

It seems like this thing that flew off has a metal knob (you can call it a head), it is removed, gently with a knife at the junction with the plastic. there should be a washer under it in the recess, which stops this thing on the axis from where it flew off.
I remember that I bending this washer, assembling it together with the reel (it is also necessary to adjust so that the reel turns when pressed to release the line) and only then shook the knob-head into place.

Corrected by user gaston (21.08.16 09:49)

The use of various electrical devices greatly simplifies the performance of many types of work, but unfortunately, all complex products break down sooner or later. Failure of the electric trimmer

will lead not only to the inability to carry out work in the garden, but also to significant financial expenses for repairs.It is possible to significantly save money and increase your own knowledge of the device of this technique if you do the trimmer repair yourself. Before proceeding with this type of work, you should carefully study the principle of operation of this type of household appliances.

The electric trimmer consists of:

• Enclosures with an electric motor.
• Detachable rod.
• Trimmer reel with protective cover.
• Shoulder strap rivets.

Electric trimmer device

A power cable with a plug is connected to the trimmer body, through which electric current is transmitted. In the cavity of the split rod there is a flexible shaft, thanks to which the torque is transmitted to the trimmer coil. The device is turned on by pressing the button located on the handle of the device.

This trimmer design is the most common, but

if desired, you can find products that operate on a battery, as well as with a lower location of an electric motor.

The trimmer can be damaged when working under increased stress. This situation can arise when the cultivated area is overgrown with tall grass.

When working in such areas, the engine may fail, the bearings may break, and the coil of the electric scythe will collapse. When operating in rainy or very foggy conditions, the trimmer may “burn out” as a result of a short circuit.

Damage to this electrical appliance can also occur as a result of frequent use. If the household appliance is used in this mode, then after operating a certain number of operating hours, it will be necessary to carry out mandatory repairs and preventive adjustment of many parts of the electrical appliance.

If the electric scythe does not show signs of life, then there may be a break in the electric cable inside the handle of the case, or the button for turning on the electric motor is faulty.

In order to diagnose an electrician, you will need to disassemble the handle of the electrical appliance. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• The control handle is removed from the electric scythe frame.
• The handle is disassembled.

When access to the inside of the electric trimmer is provided, the resistance of the electric trimmer button is measured using a multimeter. If there is no resistance after pressing, then this

the part is subject to mandatory replacement. It is also necessary to check the connection points of the power cable with the internal electrics located in the handle.

device. The contacts should be checked for open circuit with a multimeter. Often, such a malfunction can be determined "by eye". After detecting an open contact, it is enough to solder the damaged area to restore the operation of the electric trimmer.

In the absence of a multimeter, diagnostic work can be performed with an indicator screwdriver. For this purpose, connect the plug to the mains and using this diagnostic tool

find the "phase wire" and thus check the presence of electric current before and after the power button. If the phase current is detected in another electrical circuit, then it is enough to install the electrical plug on the contrary in the outlet so that correct diagnostics can be carried out

trimmer malfunction. The second diagnostic option should be done with great care, since there is a danger of electric shock when checking the integrity of the wiring.

If the power button of the device and the sections of the internal wiring are intact, then you should start checking the electric motor. For this purpose, it is necessary to remove the housing cover, having previously unscrewed several screws with a screwdriver.

The first thing to do after accessing the electric motor is to check that the brush assembly is working properly. If the brushes are worn out above the maximum permissible value, then the electric motor may stop completely or work unstable.In the case when the brushes and the collector are in perfect order, you should start “ringing” the motor winding. In order to eliminate the likelihood of breakage in both circuits, you should alternately carry out

checking the stator and rotor of the motor. To perform this operation, you must:

• Remove the engine from the electric scythe.
• Switch on the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and check all collector plates for breakage. When checking, there should also be no significant deviations in the readings of the diagnostic tool.
• Check for breakdown of the rotor winding to ground. For this purpose, connect one probe of the multimeter to the rotor “ground”, and the other to any collector plate. The multimeter must be set to measure resistance over 1 MΩ. The resistance of a working motor between the winding and “ground” should be very high.
• Measure the resistance value of the stator winding. If there is no resistance, then we can state in this case its malfunction.
• If the stator wiring is in perfect order, then a check is made for a possible breakdown on the case, in the same way as when diagnosing the stator.

When checking in this way, it is possible in 90% of cases to establish the cause of the malfunction of the electric motor. It will not be possible to check for an interturn short circuit, which can manifest itself only during the engine operation, thus it will not work, but such a malfunction can be diagnosed

by indirect signs, which are manifested in a decrease in the power of the electric motor and its overheating. If the electric motor is equipped with a thermal relay, then such an electric scythe, with an interturn closure, will work for a short time, after which the trimmer will automatically turn off. In some cases, the thermal relay can cause a malfunction of the trimmer motor, therefore, in a set of test

measures should be included "ringing" of the thermal relay using a multimeter or tester.

It is very simple to do this: in good condition, on a cold engine, the thermal relay passes an electric current,

In a malfunctioning state, the electrical circuit will be open.

Problems with the performance of electric scythes associated with wire breaks can be easily eliminated by soldering the contacts, but if the motor "burned out", then you will need to perform a complex rewinding process, which can

carried out by a qualified technician only. In many cases, it is much easier and cheaper to purchase a new engine and install it in place of the burned out one. This work can be done independently

in the reverse order of removal of the unit.

If the trimmer electrician is in good working order, then you should pay attention to other types of malfunctions that may appear during the operation of the electric trimmer.

If the electric motor of the device turns on, but the bobbin with the line does not rotate, the causes of such a malfunction may be the breakage of the flexible shaft transmitting the torque. This problem is especially often manifested with improper care of the electrical appliance. For example, in the absence of lubrication inside the rod of the electric cable, the cable will be exposed to excessive friction and within a short time this part will fail. For replacement, it is enough to disconnect the upper part of the electric braid, in which the electric motor is located, after which it will be possible to remove the flexible shaft from the rod.

If there are difficulties with the removal of the second part of the cable remaining in the cavity, the lower part of the spit is disconnected with the bobbin and shaft. The assembly of the mechanism is carried out in the reverse order.

Bottom trimmer

The flexible shaft must be thoroughly lubricated with grease prior to installation to reduce the chance of repeated failure of this part.

Electric scythe shaft bearing

Flexible shaft rupture can only occur on top-engine electric trimmer models.

Electric scythes with a lower engine location do not have a flexible shaft, but malfunctions of such devices can manifest themselves in the form of destruction of the bearing of the main shaft of the electric scythes on which the bobbin with fishing line is installed.

To fix such a malfunction is very simple, it is enough to replace the failed bearing with a new part.

With frequent use and improper care of the electric scythe, the listed malfunctions can appear with enviable regularity. To minimize the likelihood of breakage, it is enough not to overload the device, lubricate rubbing parts in time and do not work in high humidity. Despite some restrictions when working with this device with an electric trimmer, unlike petrol trimmers, there can be no malfunctions in the ignition unit. And such a malfunction as: "the trimmer motor immediately stalls", in principle, can not be. The motor of the electrical device cannot stall because it does not need to be started. To start, just press the power button, so many summer residents choose electric trimmers to care for the surrounding area.