The cause of backlash in the grenade is most often the wear of the spline joint of the shaft and tripod. If the wear is small, then there is a simple method for repairing such a malfunction. So, first of all, you need to clean all the elements from dirt and grease.Solutions of detergents with water and gasoline or kerosene will help you with this. After you have cleaned all the elements, look at the spline connection. If you find corrosion on them, treat them with a file.
Do the same with the splines on the shaft. To completely get rid of any traces of corrosion, place the shafts and sprockets in a rust converter. Next, dry the parts and treat them with a degreaser. Then assemble all the elements on the shaft, excluding the sprockets. Before doing this, apply Loctite 648 to the shaft and sprocket. It is a kind of "glue" for such connections.
Slip the sprockets onto the shaft, twist them a little so that they fully engage. Now leave the entire structure stationary for 10 minutes. After that, you can finally assemble the drive and install it back on the car. Such a repair will completely eliminate backlash in the spline connection.
Another problem that motorists face is damage to the tripoid. In general, there are repair kits for the inner CV joint that will save you a lot of time. True, they will cost a lot. If you do not want to spend money, then you can use the following method of repairing the inner CV joint:
VIDEO
The grease has arrived, and at last I can reassemble the drive. I think those who want to do the same restoration work will find it useful to know that there are several types of CV joints and each type uses its own lubricants. For example, for a constant velocity joint of the "tripod" type, a polyurea-based grease is used, and in the CV joints, like mine, "ball" ones, are put in a grease with molybdenum disulfide (this additive also has the abbreviation "MoS2"). There are a huge number of brands on the market, but when looking at the options, my choice fell on “BP Energrease L21-M”.
Why?
But, before filling the CV joints with this product, it was still necessary to thoroughly process the splines of the shafts and sprockets themselves. Prepare the required elements for “gluing” with the shaft-sleeve lock. To do this, I purchased a rust converter and placed all the processed units there.
After processing and wiping dry with a lint-free cloth, the details have noticeably lightened and acquired a “fresh”, new, if you like, look. There was no trace of rusty deposits on the teeth of the sprockets and shafts. I also decided to process the balls, the intermediate plate and the grenade itself.
Next, we collect the inner covers with new anthers. Before putting the protective cover on the lid, I applied the sealant in a circle into the groove where the edge of the boot sits, this is necessary so that, under no circumstances, water does not get inside the CV joint. And then he tightened it with clamps.
The assembled dust caps can now be slipped onto the shafts. However, this is not exactly an easy task, and to facilitate the assembly process, I used a soap solution.
After that, acetone was put into action. Having thoroughly “bathed” (degreased) the shafts and the sprockets in it, everything was ready to apply the Loctite 648 shaft-sleeve lock. I did not look at its composition. But, apparently, this product consists of very strong chemical elements, because when the latch came into contact with metal, an eerie, some kind of incomprehensible “metallic” smell was emitted.
Finally, we put the sprockets on the shafts.We lightly “rub” the parts together so that the glue is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the splines of both elements and fills in all microcracks. We leave the assembled drives without movement for 10 minutes.
Because I collected everything yesterday, this morning the shaft-sleeve retainer should have finally polymerized. I tried to remove the sprocket from the shaft, making great efforts for this, but there was no hint of movement at all.
temporarily - makes sense?
disassembled the old native inner CV joint .. one of the tripod needle bearings - got enough sleep in a grenade .. the other two are normal. I checked them with my hand - I did not notice any backlashes. I looked at the journal of the dead bearing and at the cage - no signs of wear are visible either. Consequently, the "needles" were demolished.
an idea was born: pull out the left-hand drive, disassemble the inner grenade of the CV joint, carefully assemble the needles and the outer bearing race, thoroughly rinse everything and assemble from two broken CV joints - one NOT broken ..
I'm not trying to find any savings, I'm waiting for the ordered new drive to arrive, but it's still a month (in a good scenario), and it's somehow scary to drive with a wild shaking body :(
CV joint (Joint of equal angular velocities, or simply - "grenade" in common people) is a device that provides the transmission of torque, with an angle of rotation of about 70 degrees in relation to the axis. CV joints are used in passenger cars, more precisely in drive systems with steerable wheels, as a rule, paired with independent suspension, sometimes found on the rear wheels.
What if the CV joint crunched, and what does it mean?
As a rule, the CV joint has a fairly large margin of safety, sometimes its resource exceeds the resource of the vehicle itself. Often, premature failure of this mechanism is associated with a rupture of the protective cover, as a result of which dust mixed with sand and moisture falls on the rotating parts of the hinge. Because of this, increased wear of all parts begins in the CV joint. It also happens that the boot is intact, and the crackle is very strong. This may indicate obvious problems that are caused by the aging of the lubricant inside the mechanism. Sometimes when buying a foreign car with "decent" mileage (from 250 thousand km), owners interested in selling stuff the CV joints with pieces of rags or paper mixed with grease. All this "vinigrette" will make itself known in 2-3 thousand km. If we ignore the crunch of the CV joint, then over time it will intensify, as a result of which the wear will increase and the CV joint will simply need to be replaced with a new one, since parts with a large "production" cannot be restored.
In order, as they say, to get to this ingenious mechanism, you should dismantle the half-shaft, release the boot clamps a little, and then pull it out towards the half-shaft. In order to remove the CV joint from the axle shaft, you will need a hammer, but without fanaticism, please. And also a drift made of soft material (aluminum, copper, or wood). The CV joint is a rather complicated product, despite the fact that it consists of only four elements: a fist, balls, a separator and a body.
SHRUS repair. Dismantling and replacement
First of all, you need to make marks of the general location of the outer, as well as the inner, cage, for this you need to get a core or scribe, you can do something more modern - a marker or paint.
1. Clamp the hinge in a vise, then turn the inner part of the cage until it stops, then remove the balls in pairs.Help yourself with a screwdriver, tap with a hammer.
2. Once all the balls have been removed, place the cage in a vertical position so that its elongated windows can intersect with the end of the body.
3. Then remove the fist with the separator. Rotate the fist, while sinking one of the protrusions located in the separator window, then separate these parts.
4. Inspect the parts after rinsing and drying. If there are no chips and wear at the joints, as well as obvious seizures and discoloration, the device will still serve. If any of the above defects is found on the parts, they must be replaced with new ones.
Assembling the mechanism, of course, should be done in the reverse order, however, before proceeding to this stage, everything must be properly lubricated. The inner cage with the separator should be inserted into the outer one, remember also about the marks that were put at the beginning. Place the balls in pairs, as when disassembling. Fill the hinge with SHRUS-4 grease in a ratio of 80-100 g per hinge. As an alternative, "lithol" is suitable, as well as other grease lubricants. Do not try to save money, because you are trying for yourself. The performance of the CV joint largely depends on how much lubricant it contains. It will not be superfluous to put 40-50 grams directly into the case. When assembling the CV joint, knock out the hinge along the slots and put on the boot, then tighten the clamp. The job of the boot is to ensure a good seal on the hinge. When lubricating the parts, rotate the CV joint to distribute the lubricant evenly inside. Make sure once again that it is assembled correctly - there should be no biting or strong resistance during rotation.
The constant velocity joint (CV joint) is an integral part of all front and all-wheel drive vehicles. It provides the transmission of torque to the axle shaft and drive wheel.
There are two hinges on the axle shafts:
inner CV joint located on the side of the gearbox;
outer CV joint located on the side of the wheel.
The assembly consists of 4 parts: spherical body, inner race, cage and balls. Like any part of the machine, the hinges gradually wear out and need to be replaced.
The experience of service stations shows that CV joints malfunctions occur even in new cars with low mileage. There are several reasons for the breakdown:
Lack of lubrication. As a result of friction, the metal begins to grind without lubrication.
Incorrect installation of the CV joint.
Anther damage. Water and abrasive particles enter the mechanism through the holes, which accelerate the wear of the balls and grooves.
Aggressive driving or towing heavy trailers. The high load on the assembly resulting from fast driving on a bad road, sharp acceleration and heavy load on the car accelerates the wear of the hinges.
Poor quality parts. Defective or counterfeit parts do not last long.
Mechanical damage. As a result of an accident or a wheel falling into a deep hole, parts can be destroyed.
Backlash of ball joints. Loose wheels increase the load on the parts.
Normal wear and tear.
If the problem is not detected and corrected in time, the knot may fall apart while driving. In this case, it will be possible to get home only by a tow truck. Therefore, you need to quickly respond to the following signs of a CV joint malfunction:
Crunching sound while cornering.
Backlash in the joints of the assembly.
Crunching sound during the start of movement or sudden acceleration.
Jerks during acceleration.
How to disassemble and assemble CV joints. Video:
VIDEO
These symptoms can appear in case of other malfunctions as well. Therefore, before going to a car dealership, you need to check the serviceability of the constant velocity joints.
Internal and external SHRUS malfunctions manifest themselves in different ways. To check the external hinge, you need to turn the steering wheel as much as possible and slowly drive around the site.With this position of the steering wheel, the maximum bend between the axle shafts is formed. In this case, a faulty external CV joint will emit a crunch, depending on the speed of movement.
Diagnostics of the CV joint serviceability. Video:
VIDEO
It is more difficult to achieve maximum curvature of the inner hinge. To do this, you need to do the following operations:
hang out the wheels by lifting the car with a jack or a lift;
start the engine;
turn on the transmission.
In this position, the faulty inner hinge will crack distinctly.
A standard auditory test does not always make it possible to accurately determine whether the hinges are working properly. Before buying expensive parts, make sure they are the problem. To do this, perform the following operations:
place the car on the pit and hang the wheels;
inspect the condition of the anthers;
check the backlash between the axle shafts.
On Kalina, the front wheel drive can be checked in the same way with the VAZ 2109
VIDEO
The algorithm for checking Ford hinges is the same as above.
The breakage of parts is produced by the characteristic crunch (sound) and backlash of the axle shafts.
To replace the hinges, you will need the following tools, parts, and materials:
new CV joint;
molybdenum grease;
new nut for fastening the outer hinge;
chisel;
new boot;
drift;
hammer;
set of wrenches;
puller for ball and steering rods;
balloon wrench;
mount;
jack and support.
It is difficult to do the job alone. So ask a friend to help you.
VIDEO
The algorithm for replacing the CV joint looks like this:
put the car in the inspection hole and turn on the handbrake.
loosen the front wheel bolts;
lift the machine with a jack and place it on a support;
unscrew the bolts and remove the front wheel;
the assistant must apply the brake to prevent the wheel from turning;
completely unscrew the nut holding the axle shaft;
unscrew the nut from the ball pin;
undock the ball joint by removing the finger from the steering knuckle;
clean the drive shaft;
loosening the clamps, slide the CV joint boot along the shaft;
unscrew the nut securing the steering rod joint to the steering knuckle;
undock the rod from the steering knuckle;
pull the wheel hub towards you so that it is removed from the axle shaft splines;
remove the inner hinge from the gearbox using a pry bar (so as not to break the oil seal, do not insert it deeply);
Advice: when replacing two hinges at the same time, it is necessary to insert pieces of a rubber hose or an old CV joint into the box. Otherwise, after removing the second axle shaft, the gears will shift and it will be impossible to put the splines of the new hinge into them.
remove the retaining ring from the axle shaft;
use a punch to knock the joint off the drive shaft.
If the CV joint is not worn out, but clogged with dirt as a result of a ruptured boot, it can be restored. To do this, you need to rinse the part with gasoline to remove dirt and grease. After that, clean splines and balls must be lubricated with molybdenum grease.
The hinges are installed in the reverse order of removal. When assembling the inner joint, remember to place a plastic plug on the end of the shaft. The splines of the inner CV joint must be firmly inserted into the half-axle gear of the gearbox. To do this, you need to firmly plant it with a hammer through a softening nozzle.
New retaining rings and axle shaft nut are installed on the machine. To prevent the latter from unscrewing, after tightening it is necessary to bend its edge with a chisel.
Careful disassembly of unfamiliar components and assemblies is the key to a problem-free assembly. In practice, it is not always possible to keep track of all the subtleties and nuances. Fortunately, the VV joint is not an overly complicated knot, so after reading our article and watching the accompanying videos, you will know how to assemble an inner CV joint.
In modern cars, only 2 types of construction are used for internal CV joints.
"Rceppa" - is used in the vast majority of external grenades, and on some cars and as an internal CV joint (for example, Volkswagen Transporter T4). The unit consists of the following parts: a housing with a spline part entering the wheel hub, a cage, a cage, balls and a retaining ring.
"Tripod" is a three-stud joint that works in relatively small angles (up to 25º). Nevertheless, this is quite enough to compensate for the suspension travel, displacement of the power unit and the gearbox in corners, when driving through irregularities, therefore "Tripod" is most often used for the manufacture of internal CV joints. Structurally, it consists of a body in which treadmills are machined, a hinge with rollers and a retaining ring.
As an example, let's take the inner joint equal to the angular velocities of the VW Transporter T4. In order to assemble a ball CV joint, you need:
fix the drive shaft in a vice;
put a boot with a metal shield on the shaft;
install the limiting ring;
casing with separator and inner sleeve can be assembled separately. It is necessary to put the separator on the clip and place it inside the case. Then, turning out the cage and the separator, lay one ball at a time. The video shows the assembly process of the CV joint fixed in the vice. Initially, a cage, a cage and a housing are put on the drive shaft. Then, as in the previous case, balls are inserted into the grooves one by one.
VIDEO
It is much easier to assemble a tripod type CV joint. You just need:
pre-install a boot on the drive shaft;
put a hinge with rollers on the slots;
fix the hinge by installing a retaining ring (there is a groove for it on the drive shaft);
liberally lubricate all rubbing vapors;
install the case;
fix the anthers;
manually develop the mechanism by making several turns in different directions.
For a visual representation, we suggest watching a video of the assembly of the outer and inner CV joints.
VIDEO
Useful tips that will not only help you assemble the inner CV joint correctly, but also prolong the life of the joints and angular velocities in general.
If you noticed the torn boot and the CV joint in time before the disassembly has not yet begun to crackle, you can do without flushing the unit and replacing the lubricant.
Do not use lithol, grease or graphite grease as a lubricant. Only special grease for CV joints is permissible.
If you disassembled the old CV joint to flush it and replace the grease, mark the location of the cage, the separator relative to the body. When removing the balls, lay out so that you can then install them in their native places.
Gasoline, a small brush, and a clean cloth are good for cleaning.
Factory-made crimp clamps are considered disposable. If you reinstall them, be prepared for the fact that when the wheel is inverted (especially in cold weather), the boot may break. As a result, installing a new or flushing an old grenade will go down the drain. You can squeeze such clamps with thin pliers.
It is most convenient to squeeze and unclench the retaining rings with special pliers. Without them, assembly and disassembly can be more time consuming and hassle-free.
VIDEO
Schematic representation of the CV joints of the front wheels
The different device of the external and internal "grenades" ("popular" name for CV joints) is due to slightly different modes of operation of the hinges. If for the outer SHRUS connected to the hub, the main task is to transmit torque at any possible angles of rotation / tilt of the wheel, then for the inner one it is more important to compensate for the misalignment of the transmission and the drive shaft (partially unloading the outer SHRUS), and also to ensure the "continuity" of the shaft with long travels of the suspension. That is, the inner CV joint must allow the drive shaft to "lengthen" or "shorten".
The different design of the outer and inner CV joints is due to slightly different modes of operation of the hinges.
The figure above shows the VAZ drive.Its design is the simplest and, one might say, elegant - a minimum of parts with high reliability and ease of dismantling and repairing hinges. On the left side of the figure is an inner CV joint. As you can see, the body of the inner "grenade" is larger than the outer one. This is what allows the inner casing of the CV joint to move along with the shaft and balls inside the body along the "tracks". But the hinge is also capable of turning at an angle - less than the outer one.
The location of the inner CV joints
The most characteristic symptom of a malfunctioning internal CV joint is the characteristic crunch that accompanies the operation of the joint. But the “dying” outer CV joint produces exactly the same sound, so it is sometimes difficult to find the “culprit”.
Sometimes it happens that the wear of parts of the inner CV joint leads to vibration felt by the driver when driving on a flat road.
Inner CV joint boot
First of all, you need to monitor the condition of the CV joints rubber covers. The manufacturer generally, as a rule, prescribes to change the hinges themselves if their covers are damaged.
The manufacturer, as a rule, prescribes to replace the hinges themselves if their covers are damaged.
You also need to pay attention to how tightly fastened the clamps on the covers. A properly tightened clamp prevents the boot from rotating on the hinge housing.
VIDEO
CV joint (Joint of equal angular velocities, or simply - "grenade" in common people) is a device that provides the transmission of torque, with an angle of rotation of about 70 degrees in relation to the axis. CV joints are used in passenger cars, more precisely in drive systems with steerable wheels, as a rule, paired with independent suspension, sometimes found on the rear wheels.
What if the CV joint crunched, and what does it mean?
As a rule, the CV joint has a fairly large margin of safety, sometimes its resource exceeds the resource of the vehicle itself. Often, premature failure of this mechanism is associated with a rupture of the protective cover, as a result of which dust mixed with sand and moisture falls on the rotating parts of the hinge. Because of this, increased wear of all parts begins in the CV joint.It also happens that the boot is intact, and the crackle is very strong. This may indicate obvious problems that are caused by the aging of the lubricant inside the mechanism. Sometimes when buying a foreign car with "decent" mileage (from 250 thousand km), owners interested in selling stuff the CV joints with pieces of rags or paper mixed with grease. All this "vinigrette" will make itself known in 2-3 thousand km. If we ignore the crunch of the CV joint, then over time it will intensify, as a result of which the wear will increase and the CV joint will simply need to be replaced with a new one, since parts with a large "production" cannot be restored.
In order, as they say, to get to this ingenious mechanism, you should dismantle the half-shaft, release the boot clamps a little, and then pull it out towards the half-shaft. In order to remove the CV joint from the axle shaft, you will need a hammer, but without fanaticism, please. And also a drift made of soft material (aluminum, copper, or wood). The CV joint is a rather complicated product, despite the fact that it consists of only four elements: a fist, balls, a separator and a body.
SHRUS repair. Dismantling and replacement
First of all, you need to make marks of the general location of the outer, as well as the inner, cage, for this you need to get a core or scribe, you can do something more modern - a marker or paint.
1. Clamp the hinge in a vise, then turn the inner part of the cage until it stops, then remove the balls in pairs. Help yourself with a screwdriver, tap with a hammer.
2. Once all the balls have been removed, place the cage in a vertical position so that its elongated windows can intersect with the end of the body.
3. Then remove the fist with the separator. Rotate the fist, while sinking one of the protrusions located in the separator window, then separate these parts.
4. Inspect the parts after rinsing and drying. If there are no chips and wear at the joints, as well as obvious seizures and discoloration, the device will still serve. If any of the above defects is found on the parts, they must be replaced with new ones.
Assembling the mechanism, of course, should be done in the reverse order, however, before proceeding to this stage, everything must be properly lubricated. The inner cage with the separator should be inserted into the outer one, remember also about the marks that were put at the beginning. Place the balls in pairs, as when disassembling. Fill the hinge with SHRUS-4 grease in a ratio of 80-100 g per hinge. As an alternative, "lithol" is suitable, as well as other grease lubricants. Do not try to save money, because you are trying for yourself. The performance of the CV joint largely depends on how much lubricant it contains. It will not be superfluous to put 40-50 grams directly into the case. When assembling the CV joint, knock out the hinge along the slots and put on the boot, then tighten the clamp. The job of the boot is to ensure a good seal on the hinge. When lubricating the parts, rotate the CV joint to distribute the lubricant evenly inside. Make sure once again that it is assembled correctly - there should be no biting or strong resistance during rotation.
Website for cars and repair.
Before starting any repair work or trying to diagnose a problem, you need to be clear about what you are dealing with. Therefore, below you will see a photo of the CV joint drive, on which its elements and their names are signed:
For a complete understanding of the structure of the drive elements, below you will see its cross-sectional image:
This unit is very reliable: under normal operating conditions, its service life may exceed the service life of the rest of the vehicle. However, the ingress of a small amount of dust, dirt, or water into the hinge multiplies the friction in the hinge, thereby increasing wear and tear and accelerating failure.Due to their importance for the normal operation of the car, CV joints are well protected by special "protective covers" - anthers. They provide the hinge with reliable protection from dust and dirt, as well as complete tightness. Anthers are usually made of dense rubber or plastic and are secured to the drive shaft with clamps. By the way, anther clamps usually have a slightly unusual appearance. In the photo below you can see the clamps for the anthers, a special device for tightening them and the tightening process itself:
One of the main reasons for CV joints malfunctions is connected precisely with the ingress of dirt or water through damage in the boot. If it happens that your boot is damaged and dirt gets into the hinge, you must immediately inspect it and then clean it (if necessary, repair it). To do this, you need to remove the drive, flush all its elements. Next, make sure that there is no excessive wear in the elements and install them back after filling the CV joint with fresh grease.
Repairing a damaged boot can be done with a regular tire patch and sealant.
There are two ways to detect possible malfunctions in the external (external) CV joint:
visually detect a violation of the integrity and tightness of the boot: cracks, breaks, traces of grease on the outside;
by characteristic sounds (characteristic crackling, crunching) when turning the steering wheel, entering a turn, etc.
If you disassemble the outer CV joint and find wear and tear on one of its components, then there is an opportunity to significantly extend the life of the joint without replacing it. First of all, if you find wear on the cage at the points of contact with the balls, then there is no point in panicking. The rolling bodies are installed in it with a gap, and a significant one, so that the development at the points of contact is completely harmless. It is another matter if wear appears on the rolling elements themselves or elsewhere in the separator.
If only the rolling elements are worn out, then their repair is not possible. But it will not be difficult to find the same ones at the nearest auto analysis, car market or auto shop. The main thing is to choose the balls of the required diameter.
If the separator is worn out, then there are two main repair methods:
replace the entire outer CV joint;
replace the separator;
change the SHRUS places.
The first method is simpler and more preferable, although it will turn out to be more expensive than the second. A lot of articles have been written about how to properly replace the outer CV joint and many video tutorials have been filmed. There can be many features and subtleties associated with each specific car model.
The second way is to purchase a repair kit (which are produced mainly for domestic cars) or find an outer CV joint for your car on analysis, remove the separator from there and install it in the old CV joint. Naturally, before installing a used separator, you need to make sure that there are no visible signs of wear. Next, immerse it in a rust converter if there is any trace of corrosion on it. It will be useful to clean it with sandpaper after that.
The essence of the third repair method is to rearrange the grenades of the left and right semiaxes in places. This will help, because the direction of rotation of the rolling elements will change (there will be unused portions involved). However, this will result in a crunching sound when reversing.
Another "tricky" method that allows you not to spend money on the purchase of the entire CV joint or its components. However, not every car can be “repaired” in this way. Its essence is to replace the outer cage separator with the inner cage separator. Here, of course, there are two conditions:
First, the separators must be identical to each other.
Secondly, the outer wear should not be too strong, and the inner (ideally) should have almost no wear.
Since these two conditions are not met on all car models, therefore, such repairs can not be performed on any car.
The inner CV joint, as well as the outer one, is protected by a boot. Accordingly, if its integrity is violated, dirt and water gets into the hinge, which leads to its failure. The methods of repairing internal CV joints in this situation do not differ from repairing external ones: they must be washed, replaced with grease and replaced with a damaged boot.
Another main problem of the internal constant velocity joints is the backlash of the drive shaft from the gearbox side.
It is necessary to distinguish between two types of backlash of the inner CV joint:
directly in the inner hinge;
into the connection between the drive and differential.
Since it is impossible to visually determine the presence of backlashes, and not every car owner will regularly crawl under the car and "wobble" the internal grenade, it is necessary to be able to determine them differently. The most effective way to understand that backlash has appeared in the internal CV joint is to observe the behavior of the car at speed. Accelerate the car to approximately 80-90 km / h and observe if the steering wheel and vibration on the body appear at this speed. Pay particular attention to front panel vibrations, particularly around the pedals.
If you find vibrations, then speed up the car again. Now the speed should be in the region of 100-110 km / h. If vibrations disappear after overclocking, we can conclude that there are backlashes in the internal grenade. It is necessary to remove it as soon as possible and make sure of this.
The cause of backlash in the grenade is most often the wear of the spline joint of the shaft and tripod. If the wear is small, then there is a simple method for repairing such a malfunction. So, first of all, you need to clean all the elements from dirt and grease. Solutions of detergents with water and gasoline or kerosene will help you with this. After you have cleaned all the elements, look at the spline connection. If you find corrosion on them, treat them with a file.
Do the same with the splines on the shaft. To completely get rid of any traces of corrosion, place the shafts and sprockets in a rust converter. Next, dry the parts and treat them with a degreaser. Then assemble all the elements on the shaft, excluding the sprockets. Before doing this, apply Loctite 648 to the shaft and sprocket. It is a kind of "glue" for such connections.
Video (click to play).
Slip the sprockets onto the shaft, twist them a little so that they fully engage. Now leave the entire structure stationary for 10 minutes. After that, you can finally assemble the drive and install it back on the car. Such a repair will completely eliminate backlash in the spline connection.
