DIY bathroom pipe repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pipe repair in the bathroom from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Pipes are an indispensable element of the bathroom, the location of which directly affects the overall attractiveness of the interior. Do you want to improve the look of your bathroom at a low cost? Learn about the basic ways to camouflage pipes.

The water supply system is arranged in such a way as to prevent a simultaneous decrease in pressure in different sections of the pipes. To assemble the plumbing, experienced plumbers use pipes of different diameters.

Trunk sections are laid using pipes with a diameter of ¾, and for branches they are laid with ½ inch lines.

There are two ways to lay the plumbing in the bathroom:

The first option is based on the installation of pipes, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling. The pipes, in this case, are outside and worsen the appearance of the room.

Concealed mounting is more complicated. Pipes are installed under finishing, behind furniture, behind plasterboard boxes. The appearance of the premises remains unchanged.

Check out the basic requirements for installing pipes in the bathroom in a hidden way:

1. Reliable operation. When hiding the wiring in the bathroom, make sure that all fasteners are tight. Pipes installed inside a plasterboard box or wall are carefully sealed to prevent leaks.

2. Condensation will not form inside the walls, as mold and mildew will appear in the inter-wall space under the influence of high humidity. Install insulation on the pipes,

Experienced foremen recommend using the hidden method of installing the water supply system in the bathroom. Follow the pipe installation technique carefully. The open method only allows you to save money on the purchase of high-quality materials. In the winter season, condensation forms on such pipes.

Video (click to play).

There are several ways to mask the plumbing in the bathroom. Pipes located in a horizontal position are installed in the wall using the gating method. Further, the walls are covered with plaster and tiles.

In order to have access to the pipes in the bathroom, a special box made of plywood or drywall is erected for the purpose of camouflage. Some craftsmen hide pipes in special structures in the form of cabinets. Additionally, devices perform the function of storing things.

Use your imagination and decorate the pipes:

The installation of a water supply system inside the wall is carried out in the case of using copper or polypropylene pipes. At the same time, the joints between the parts must be strong and tight.

To hide the horizontal sections of the pipeline, place a corrugation on them, and then place them inside the wall. Cover the floor with plaster or concrete screed. Further actions depend on the individual preferences of the owners.

Please note that the pipes may only be put into operation after the concrete solution has completely dried out. Premature water supply will cause it to crack. This method of hiding pipes is more suitable for new apartments or when carrying out major repairs. In other cases, we recommend hiding the piping behind furniture or other parts of the interior.

Before starting strobiravonia, make a project that clearly identifies all pipe-laying channels. When working on drawings, consider the diameter and size of each pipe, its thickness, and the need for reinforcement. In the places where taps, adapters and other repair parts are installed, construct a viewing window. In a panel house, strobing cannot be performed.

Hiding pipes under the tiles is a long and laborious process, before performing which you need to carefully consider all the pros and cons of such a repair. Initially, draft a project for installing pipes under the tiles. The drawings clearly indicate the places of passage of the pipes, determine the repair boxes.

Next, build a frame on which the tiles will be fixed. Use a wood or steel frame to make the battens. Wooden structures are destroyed faster and require treatment with antiseptics. Choose metal profiles with anti-corrosion coating. Further, the frame structure is covered with a mesh, which will become the basis for fixing the tiles. First, the front part of the frame is finished. Next, lay the tiles on the end sections and on the top of the structure. Create a hatch-like opening for permanent access to the system.

Making a tiled box is a complex process. Moreover, it is not practical to operate. Therefore, we recommend that you still hide the pipes behind furniture or plasterboard elements. Try to build a collapsible, modular design that is as strong, comfortable and utilitarian as possible.

There are three main types of pipe layouts:

consistent;
collector;
combined.

The first option is widespread in apartments. It is used if the system differs in the minimum number of draw-off points. Tees are used to connect consumers to the pipe. This wiring option is compact, with a minimum number of connections, and, accordingly, a decrease in the possibility of leakage. In addition, the costs for the number of pipes and adapters are reduced, the system is quickly installed and functions well. The only drawback of such a scheme is the variability of the pressure in the system, especially when several sources of water supply are turned on.

The collector method of installing pipes in the bathroom allows you to connect many water points to the main pipe. It is used in large private houses, cottages or mansions. The scheme is based on the presence of two collectors providing hot and cold water supply. Water flows through a separate pipe to each device, so there is no pressure drop. The water supply is shut off without damage to other consumers.

Combined option - connecting some devices through the collectors, and others in a sequential scheme. This option is the most optimal for small houses.

In relation to the method of laying pipes, there are three types of wiring:

open - pipes are located directly on the walls, they are quickly and easily serviced, the room does not need additional repairs during their installation;
hidden - installation of pipes inside walls or under the floor;
combined - the pipes are hidden in the room under false boxes or furniture.

The easiest way to hide pipes is with furniture. Install a cabinet or shelf in the place where communications pass. On the one hand, you will get a place to store things, and on the other, an interesting piece of furniture that hides communications in the bathroom.

We recommend paying attention to built-in wardrobes. To hide the pipes, you need a jigsaw or grinder. With their help, an independent completion of the furniture is carried out.

Make markings on the curbstone first. The pipe is connected to the pipe with precise joining dimensions. All elements are securely fixed to the wall.

Among the disadvantages of this method are the damage to newly acquired furniture, a change in its shape, the difficulty of selecting suitable fittings to hide all pipes. In addition, wooden furniture is more susceptible to wear and tear due to the condensation formed on the pipes.

Choosing this method, use the services of specialists who will develop a furniture project in relation to the individual parameters of the bathroom.

Stretch ceilings, podium structures and boxes of various sizes will help to hide pipes. If financial capabilities do not allow you to purchase a previously developed furniture project, make it yourself. Build shelves with your own hands from moisture-resistant drywall.

Pipes installed in an open way require additional linings. On the one hand, they protect people from burns, in the case of hot water supply, on the other hand, condensation does not form on the pipes and their appearance improves.

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It is also better to choose plastic pipes for cold water, and metal-plastic products for hot water.Useful advice! Experienced plumbers recommend: before starting to replace pipes, it is necessary to draw up a drawing on which the locations of plumbing elements and equipment (washing machine, dishwasher, etc.) will be marked. Thanks to this scheme, it is much easier to calculate the required number of tees, bends and other components of the sewer and water supply system. The drawing, if desired, can be shown to a professional who, if necessary, will make adjustments and give practical instructions.Replacing pipes in an apartment should always begin with dismantling old water supply elements.What you need to unmount:

chisel;

Bulgarian;

hammer or puncher.

To cut off old pipes, you need to get to them, since you need to open hard-to-reach sections of the water supply and sewer system. For these purposes, you will need a chisel and a hammer or a perforator. It is better to choose a chisel with a wide hat, and you should wear construction gloves on your hands. Thus, hands will be protected from damage. In addition, in the process of working with a perforator or a grinder, it is advisable to wear glasses and a protective mask, or a respirator. This is necessary to prevent building dust from entering the eyes, mouth and nose.

The water must be shut off in the room.

Now it is necessary to disassemble the bushings, as well as the inlet taps. To do this, use a grinder to cut off the dilapidated pipes from the water supply or unscrew the inlet taps.

Cut the threads. Screw on the locking cocks and then close them.

Connect the water in the riser.

Disconnect water-consuming appliances (faucets, washing machine, etc.) from the water supply.

Disconnect the same devices from the sewer system.

Remove residual water from old pipes.

Using a grinder, cut off the caps from the dowels that used to attach the water passage to the wall. Remember that it is not easy to remove the dowels from the concrete wall, especially since the wall must remain level, since tiles will be laid on it in the future.

If the old pipes were installed high, then move the new ones as close to the floor as possible. In this case, it may become necessary to punch new holes in the walls, or they will need to be expanded. Thanks to this, pipes can be hidden without gating.

If you still cannot do without strobing, then the disc for metal on the grinder should be replaced with a disc for concrete and stone. And if, while working in the wall, you stumble upon reinforcement, then again replace it with a disc for metal.

electric soldering iron with various attachments;

cutter;

Bulgarian;

impact electric drill.

couplings and fasteners;

adjustable wrench;

technical tape;

polypropylene pipes;

petroleum jelly for connecting the water flow to consumers;

shut-off valves.

When installing polypropylene pipes in an ordinary apartment, you will need:

wall mounts;

pipes, the length of which should be about 30 m;

ring and corner squares (about 20 pieces).

Before replacing sewer pipes, you should first take into account the thickness of the tile layer, and also perform the following work:

install a filter for deep purification of cold water, it is located behind the counter and the locking mechanism;

install a filter that purifies hot water (if the bathroom or kitchen has its own risers, then the installation is carried out four times);

mount the meters in the direction of the arrows indicating the nature of the movement of water flows.

Today, polypropylene pipes are most often used to update the water supply and sewerage system. They are installed by soldering the elements with a soldering iron.Let's take a closer look at how to install them below.

Prepare in advance the previously purchased corners (45 or 90 degrees), elbows, couplings that go to metal, as well as couplings that connect 2 elements. Collect these fragments in advance, according to the installation diagram.

With the help of a marker, make marks while doing this, do not forget about the three-dimensionality of the turns, since everything must be connected at a certain angle.

You can start the soldering process. At the same time, it should be understood that in the soldering iron, the fitting and the pipe to be installed are heated in parallel. The time it takes for the device to heat up is determined by the diameter of the product, and the immediate heating time of the device is indicated in the instructions attached to the tool.

During work, make sure that the plastic does not overheat during welding. In order for the polypropylene to have time to cool and harden, you need to wait for twenty seconds.

Due to the fact that a hot water stream will flow through the pipes, they must be attached to the walls. It is better to use sliding fasteners with standard plastic clips. All elements are attached to the walls by means of plastic dowels with a screw.

Useful advice! Installing ball valves for plumbing is an inexpensive, easy way to shut off water in certain places during renovations, rather than throughout the house.Before the replacement of the water pipes is completed and the system is operational, a test should be performed to ensure that there are no leaks.

Open cold water (pressure should be medium) and wait for 15 minutes.

Make sure that there are no leaks along the length of bending products, at the connecting points.

If a leak has been found, it must be repaired.

Do the same with hot water.

Make sure that the plumbing fixtures are installed correctly in the toilet, in the bathroom, as well as in the sewer pipes. Pour several buckets of water into the bathroom, into the toilet, then inspect them for leaks. If it was found, then eliminate it immediately.

In general, replacing pipes in the toilet and bathroom is not too difficult a job. And if you work hard, show perseverance and ingenuity, you can significantly save your budget. After all, the replacement of all communications, made by the hands of experienced plumbers, will be quite expensive. Therefore, if you want to save money, and most importantly, learn something new and useful, then be patient, knowledgeable and carry out plumbing repairs with your own hands.

As soon as all the necessary preparatory steps are completed, you can proceed to the direct process of replacing the pipeline.

Old products are dismantled initially. To do this, follow these steps:

the water in the room is blocked;
the inputs and inlet taps are disassembled, for which the dilapidated pipes are cut and the taps are unscrewed;
the thread is cut;
locking taps are screwed on, after which they are closed;
all plumbing fixtures in the apartment are disconnected from the water supply system, and they are also disconnected from the sewer;
water is completely drained from old pipelines;
the grinder cuts off the caps at the dowels that fix the pipeline to the wall of the room;
all old pipes are completely sawn off.

This work is considered quite simple, and to turn off the water, you do not need to disconnect the entire staircase or house from the water.

Most often, polypropylene pipes are used for plumbing, and replacing sewers usually involves using plastic products. Installation of a water supply system is divided into stages:

the pipes themselves are being prepared, as well as various corners, elbows and couplings, calculated at the preparatory stage, and it is important to purchase special adapters for connecting to old pipes;
the direct process of soldering begins, and during operation the correct location of each element is checked so that all parts are connected at the right angle;
in a soldering iron, it is necessary to simultaneously heat both the pipe and the fitting;
the heating time of products depends on the power and other parameters of the equipment, therefore, the instructions are carefully studied in advance;
overheating of the material is not allowed, as this leads to deformation of the pipes;
immediately after heating, two elements are connected, and it is necessary to hold them in the desired position for at least 20 seconds, since it is during this time that the material cools and hardens;
for the attractiveness of the bathroom, as well as to protect against burns, the pipes are certainly attached to the wall, for which special sliding fasteners are used, equipped with plastic clips;
fasteners are attached to the walls with plastic dowels with screws;
pipes are inserted into clips.

It is recommended during operation to install a ball valve on the pipeline for each plumbing fixture, which, if necessary, allows the water to be shut off. Thus, the process of creating a new pipeline is considered to be quite simple and fast, and everyone can also cope with it. After completing the work, you need to turn on the water and check the system. It is important to make sure there are no leaks, especially at the pipe joints.

If sewer pipes are replaced, then working with them is considered even easier. They connect simply, since they are simply inserted into each other, after which they are tightly docked, for which significant efforts are applied. For connection to plumbing fixtures, special corrugations are used.

In old houses, it is often necessary to replace the sewer riser in the apartment. This is due to the fact that the warranty period of its operation has ended, so it cannot cope with serious loads, and cracks or chips may also appear on different parts of it.

This work is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to obtain permission from the management company, as well as to turn off the water throughout the house, which entails problems and disagreements with other residents of the house. Therefore, if problems are found in the riser, you must immediately contact the UK. The organization is obliged to send a plumber to check the condition of the riser. If he asserts that the structure will be able to serve for a long time, then a statement is written to the higher authorities.

It is allowed to perform the replacement yourself, if you obtain permission to do so. For this, the water in the house is cut off, after which the old risers are cut off. It is advisable to negotiate with neighbors so that new pipes go into their apartment. In this case, the joints will not be in the overlaps, since here they are negatively affected, therefore they quickly wear out. New pipes are connected to old ones using adapters, after which the system is tested. Usually, when carrying out this work in an old house, almost all apartment owners in one entrance replace the riser, which ensures a high-quality and reliable system.

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When replacing a sewer riser or pipeline, you can face numerous problems. Therefore, before starting work, you should carefully study all its features. The most common difficulties and negative consequences include:

the appearance of a leak, moreover, it most often occurs at the joints of pipes, and it is quite easy to fix this problem, for which the water is again blocked, the pipes are cut, and a reconnection is performed using a new coupling;
some people who do not have knowledge in this area use ordinary pipes for cold water for hot water supply, which leads to their short service life, so new repairs are soon required;
errors in calculations are often detected, therefore, fewer pipes are purchased than necessary, and such a problem can be eliminated by purchasing material with a margin;
a poor-quality and leaky system can result if fittings and other components made from different materials are used, therefore it is desirable that they are made not only from one raw material, but also by one manufacturer;
for the sewage system, a new pipe of a different diameter is used than that of the existing sewer drain hole;
there are restrictions on the sewer pipeline, which increase the likelihood of blockages;
a large number of different elbows and turns are used when creating a sewer system;
the correct slope is not made for draining;
ingress of water or dirt at the junctions of individual pipeline elements;
weak connection at the soldering points of the elements due to a long wait after they are heated.

Thus, replacing a pipeline in a bathroom is a specific and unusual process that requires a thorough study of all its features. It can be produced on its own. Often polypropylene or plastic pipes are chosen for this. It is allowed to replace the riser, but for this, permission is obtained from the Criminal Code and neighbors. To get a better and more durable result of work, all possible errors are studied.

The topic of this article is to replace pipes in the bathroom with your own hands. In it, I will tell you what you can change old pipes to, how to find risers and turn off valves, how to properly connect pipes with fittings and install mixers. So, let's go.It is definitely time to change the pipes.I recommend two types of pipes, differing in both consumer qualities and market positioning:

Corrugated stainless the pipe is a solution for those who need maximum reliability and who are willing to pay for it. The working pressure for this type of pipes is 25 atmospheres, the destructive pressure is at least 50, the operating temperature range is from 0 to 150 degrees. Alas, you have to pay for quality: with a nominal diameter of 15 mm, a running meter of the South Korean Kofulso will cost 250 - 300 rubles;

Corrugated stainless steel plumbing.

Reinforced plastic the pipe is much more modest in terms of characteristics: 95 degrees and operating pressure up to 16 atmospheres. These parameters can be exceeded in hot water and cold water systems only under force majeure circumstances, but such a probability always exists. But the price of a running meter of pipe is much more modest: with an outer diameter of 20 mm, it is only 80 - 100 rubles.

The water distribution in the attic floor of my house is made of metal-plastic.It is these two types of pipes that are attractive, first of all, because they are mounted using the simplest tool. A pair of adjustable wrenches is sufficient to assemble the compression fittings.It is no coincidence that I compared the prices of pipes of different diameters. They differ among themselves in the thickness of the walls and the device of the fittings, which directly affects the throughput of the water supply system. As a result, this very throughput roughly corresponds to a half-inch steel pipe, standard for Soviet-built apartments, with a diameter of 15 mm for stainless steel and 20 mm for metal-plastic.The fitting for metal-plastic additionally reduces the useful cross-section of the liner.Here is the minimum shopping list - for apartments with an adjacent location of a combined bathroom with a single mixer, a kitchen with one sink and a separate connection to the tank, embedded directly into the cold water riser:

Ball valves 1/2 "with threads" mom-dad "- 2 pieces;

1/2 "coarse filters with female-male threads - 2 pieces;

Couplings "fitting - female thread" - 2 pieces (for connection of supply lines with filters);

Couplings "fitting - external thread" - 2 pieces (for connecting the supply lines with flexible hoses of the kitchen mixer);

This fitting will allow you to connect a mixer with flexible connections.For installation on top of tiles, you can use single water sockets.

Tees "fitting-fitting-fitting" - 2 pieces (for the branch line to the mixer in the bathroom);

Pipes - along the length of the liners;

Fastening clips - at the rate of one piece per half meter of pipe;

Dowels and screws for fastening clips and water sockets;

Plumbing linen and some thread sealing paint.

Captain The obvious suggests: if there are additional plumbing fixtures (washing machine, dishwasher, washbasin, etc.), the number of fittings will increase. In addition, it is better to equip the devices with their own valves for independent shutdown.Water for each device is turned off by a separate pair of taps.From tools it is worth stocking up:

Grinder with a circle for metal to dismantle the old eyeliner. It can also be used for cutting pipes (both stainless steel and metal-plastic) in the absence of a special tool;

With a chisel, hammer and pliers. The brackets welded to the old pipes will have to be literally ripped out of the walls: builders usually fasten them with a mounting gun;

A hammer drill and a drill to it;

A screwdriver or screwdriver;

A pair of adjustable wrenches for fitting the fittings;

One gas wrench # 1 - # 2. It will come in handy when dismantling old and installing new valves.

For metal-plastic, you will additionally need:

Sharp knife for chamfering and deburring;

Calibrator for the appropriate diameter, which allows you to straighten the ovality of the pipe section;

Universal calibrator for metal-plastic.The use of a calibrator is mandatory. It is the lack of calibration when assembling fittings that is the main reason that they begin to flow after six months or a year of operation on hot water.Replacing pipes in the bathroom begins with disconnecting the risers of the water supply. In Khrushchev and Stalinist buildings, you only need to throw off two risers; they can be found in the basement, guided by the lower flights of stairs.The valves on the risers are located next to each other.In houses of a newer construction, hot water supply risers are combined in 2 - 4 (as a rule, all entrance risers are connected) to ensure continuous circulation in them: this does not take a long time to drain the water before it heats up, and heated towel rails are always hot.

After the valves are closed, do not rush to unscrew the plugs: go up and open the taps in your apartment... And only after making sure that you are not mistaken with the choice of risers and that all valves are in working order, you can dump the remaining water.Do not forget to put a work in progress sign on the valve. This simple instruction will save you from turning on the water at the most inopportune moment by one of your neighbors.Captain Obviously suggests: instead of everything described above, you can simply order a water cut-off from the service organization.How to change the pipes in the bathroom yourself, without forcing the neighbors to suffer without water for too long?The correct sequence of actions is important.This sequence of operations will allow you to turn on the water supply risers as quickly as possible.As usual, there are a number of subtleties:

If the rods interfere with unscrewing the old valves, you can unscrew the valve head or simply cut the rods with a grinder;

Do not be too lazy to wear protective glasses when working with a grinder. Believe me, it is easier to protect your eyes than to treat;

To clean the liner to the valves, you can use a thin cable, a hard wire with a hook bent at the end, and in straight sections - a knitting needle or screwdriver of sufficient length;

To wind up the thread, apply a little paint on it, then wind a thin strand of flax along the thread and paint the flax again with paint. When tightening the thread, the winding will be impregnated evenly;

Do not use too much force when removing the valves. If the thread does not want to start moving, heat it up with a gas torch, blowtorch or hair dryer. With a strong jerk of the gas key in an old house, it is quite possible to tear off the liner from the riser.

The work was crowned with success: the old eyeliner was dismantled.Both filters are installed according to the arrow indicating the direction of water flow, and the sump down... Their position should allow you to open the sump for cleaning. How to seal threads between filters and valves, and then between filters and fittings - see a couple of paragraphs above.The filter sump must face down and be accessible for service.A corrugated stainless pipe is cut with a grinder in domestic conditions, after which it is cleaned from burrs.Metal-plastic can be cut with special scissors, the same grinder and an ordinary hacksaw for metal. When preparing the end of the pipe for connection to the fitting, it is very important to observe the following sequence:Preparing the pipe for connection to the fitting.Why do I pay so much attention to this simple procedure? Because if you do not calibrate the pipe or make a normal run on it for the fitting of the fitting, when installing the connection, it will displace the O-rings and crimp the fitting itself instead. As a result, after several heating and cooling cycles, the fitting will leak., which can stop only after two or three tightening of the nut with an interval of six months or not stop at all.How to replace pipes in the bathroom with your own hands, eliminating their sagging? It's very simple: just fix them with clips with step no more than half a meter... It is advisable to install additional fasteners on tees and bends, which will prevent the liner from moving in any direction.The clip is easy to attach to the wall:

A hole is drilled with a puncher for a plastic dowel;

The dowel is clogged or pressed into it;

The clip is attracted by the screw.

Do not use wooden chops instead of dowels. Due to the constant fluctuations in humidity, typical for the bathroom and kitchen, they will quickly dry out and fall out.The water outlet is attached in the same way. The optimal height of the mixer from the edge of the bath is 15 - 25 cm.The assembly of corrugated stainless steel joints is extremely simple:

The pipe is inserted into the fitting with a loose nut;

The nut is tightened with an adjustable wrench until you feel resistance. In this case, the body of the fitting must be held with the second key.

Just insert and tighten.With metal-plastic, this operation is not much more complicated:

A little silicone grease is applied to the fitting and O-rings;

A union nut and a split ring are sequentially put on the pipe;

The pipe is put on the fitting - neatly, without distortions, so as not to move the rubber rings;

The split ring and nut slide towards the fitting body;

The nut is tightened to a moderate resistance.In this case, the body of the union is again held against rotation by another key.

The O-rings on the union must not protrude from the annular grooves.Both corrugated stainless steel and metal-plastic of the size recommended by me bend perfectly by hand, without using a pipe bender. The minimum turning radius is:

For corrugated stainless pipe - 15 mm (its diameter);

For metal-plastic - at least five pipe diameters. The bend should be as smooth as possible, otherwise there is a risk of breaking the aluminum core.

What we see in the photo.To bend the pipe with minimal risk of damage, pre-fill it with dry sand.The union nuts of the kitchen faucet flexible hose are supplied with sealing gaskets. The nuts are screwed onto the threads of the fittings and tightened to a slight resistance. In this case, as in all previous cases, the fitting must be held with the second key.Connection of flexible hoses with metal-plastic pipes under the kitchen sink.The wall mixer in the bathroom is mounted in the following sequence:

On eccentrics (lace-ups) are wound thin brass locknuts;

The eccentrics are screwed into the water socket and centered on the mixer body;

The mixer is attracted to the eccentrics with union nuts;

The locknuts on the eccentrics are wound with linen and paint and tightened;

The mixer is removed to install the decorative caps on the eccentrics and put back.

Chromed caps concealed the water sockets and eccentrics.After assembling all the connections, the valves at the entrance to the apartment are simply opened. All connections are periodically inspected for leaks over a period of several hours.At night, the pressure on cold water increases noticeably due to the lack of tapping, so do not forget to inspect your creation in the morning.A typical leak is from a fitting nut.