DIY cadena digital set-top box repair

I have two TVs in my house and both of them work through Cadena dvb-t2 consoles and it turned out that at about the same time both of them stopped working. Repair of such a set-top box costs about 600 to 800 rubles, a new one costs from 1200, it turns out it is too expensive. It was decided to try to fix it on our own, for this “googling” the vastness of the Internet, a solution was found, which I want to show you. As it turned out, this is one of the main breakdowns.

The main symptoms of a breakdown of the console:
- when the set-top box is connected to the network, the red indicator lights up and the set-top box does not react to anything else.

First of all, we disassemble the attachment and carefully examine its insides, special attention should be paid to capacitors. As shown in the photo (circled in red), the capacitor is swollen, unlike the capacitor (circled in blue), therefore it is no longer working and must be replaced.

Then we solder the capacitor, look at the parameters and look for a suitable one. In this case, you need 10 volts and 1000 microfarads, as well as 105 degrees Celsius. But in my case, only 10v1000mph and 95Hz were available, and it is slightly smaller in size, but as practice has shown, it works great.

Now we solder the new condo in place of the old one and, as you can see in the photo, everything is fine. (marked in blue).

We check the prefix for operability and put the case back.

I also recommend watching a video clip in which there are moments that were not included in the photo report.

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The most common malfunction of digital television set-top boxes is the failure of the power supply. In such an unpleasant case, it is very good if the model of the set-top box was with an external adapter, bought a new one and look further! And if not! And the power supply was built into the box itself? Then you have to repair or purchase a new one. But maybe there is an easy way out!

Hello dear readers! In this article, I want to share one simple repair method that anyone who knows how to hold a screwdriver and a soldering iron can do! Moreover, it is not necessary to master these tools masterfully.

I'm also not going to tell you anything overly complicated in the field of electronics repair, this is the lot of professionals. On the contrary, I will try to describe everything in such a way that even a non-specialist could cope and eliminate this malfunction.

I'll make a reservation right away that this method is not suitable for all models of consoles, but for many, since they are often made according to a scheme very similar for this case. Everything will be based on a specific example of a set-top box from the D-Color company, namely the DC1401HD model. So by understanding this "high technology" you can repair your digital TV box yourself.

Fast navigation through the article

What is a sign that it is the power supply unit that has failed in the console, and not something else? If the set-top box connected to the outlet does not show any signs of life, neither the digital indicator nor the LED on the front panel is lit, then with a probability of 99% the reason is in it, in the power supply.

If, at the same time, the warranty period has already expired, then you can safely do the disassembly. As the experienced masters say, "An autopsy will show" I think you will deal with this part of the work without a detailed description, just be careful, usually two screws on the back wall, sometimes also on the sides allow you to release and open the top cover. Plastic latches on the sides and bottom hold the front panel, and the board itself is also fixed with screws to the bottom of the case and in the area of ​​the connectors on the back of the case.

The attachment is disassembled

So, the set-top box is disassembled, the power cord is also removed from the connector, it is no longer needed. On the bottom of the case you can see traces of a "fire" that left behind a burnt-out power supply unit.

P.S. The power supply unit here is not a separate unit, as you might think from the name, but the section of the board on which the radio elements are located, providing the required power supply voltage for the set-top box.

I will outline the general picture, and for those who already know a little about radio engineering, this will already be enough to grasp the basis of the idea and repeat. So, the power supply circuits of this set-top box give out only one voltage - 5 Volts. Since this circuit has burned out and repair may be impractical (in terms of the aggregate cost of radio components and repairs), that is, a simple solution. Replace the internal power supply with an external one. It's not very difficult!

Replacing the internal source with the external

In the photo above, with a yellow frame, a section of the power supply unit that has failed is highlighted. The board has already been washed, so no traces of burning are visible. By the way - Among the repairmen, the expression "Burnt out" does not always mean literal burning with charring and other similar manifestations, it only means that the radio components are out of order.

For our repair, you will need to purchase an external power supply with an output voltage of 5 Volts and capable of delivering a current of 1.5 or better 2 Amperes. Now there are a lot of similar ones and can be purchased not expensively, or maybe you have a similar one, for example, an unused charger from a tablet or smartphone.

When a suitable adapter is available, it remains to find the desired point on the board of the set-top box and, observing the polarity, apply voltage to it from the external power supply. Everything! It remains to lay and secure the wire, or you can organize a detachable connection, as you like. I think the basics are clear, let's get down to the details.

Just a little bit of basics for those who are not in the subject, so that you can figure it out. Pay attention to the photo. Click to enlarge.

Mounting side power supply

Solder side power supply

In short, the power supply consists of:

• The primary "Hot" part - Hot, it is called because it is dangerous, connected to the mains voltage of 220 volts. Please note that even after unplugging from the outlet, for some time, there is a charge that can bring brr .. unpleasant sensations if you climb there. But in our case there is no need to climb there and we will not connect it to the outlet either.
• Secondary part - Safe there, there is a galvanic isolation from the mains. In the given example, at the points indicated in the photo, a voltage of only 5 Volts comes out from the rectifier diode.

In the purchased, external power supply (at least 1.5 amperes, 5 Volts.) We bite off the plug, clean the ends of the wires and, having determined the polarity, we solder them: Positive to the diode terminal, on the side where the strip is drawn on it, and the negative to the common bus - the body of the USB port will be a convenient place for this. If you do not know how to determine the polarity, even without a device, see additional materials at the end of the article.

We solder the wires

We connect the new power supply to the network, take it out of standby mode, check what happened.

We check the performance

All OK! It remains to lay and secure the wire so as not to accidentally pull it out, collect everything in a heap and use it. In the end, it will look like this.

The attachment is ready to use

If you need ideas on how to attach the wire to the box? How to determine polarity without a device? Or how to solder the wire from the bottom of the board? - Then these additional materials are further in the text.

For those who have a multimeter, it will not be difficult to determine the polarity of the power supply, but what about those who do not have this device?

There are several simple ways:

1. You can determine the polarity by the color of the wires. There is a rule - the Red wire is a plus, respectively, the other wire is a minus. This is almost always the case! Nearly! Sometimes there are exceptions, either the wires do not understand what color, or the rule has been violated.
2. There is another way, it will be needed - just don't laugh ... potatoes.Yes, yes, raw potatoes! The method is as follows. Cut the potato in half and stick the bare copper wires from the external power supply into it, at a distance of about 5 mm from each other. We plug the PSU into an outlet and wait. With the adapter voltage of 5 volts, it took about three minutes for a visible result. Click on the photo to enlarge.

We connect the wires to the potatoes

The potato around the positive wire begins to turn green, so you can accurately determine the polarity without instruments.

In the first, simplest version, the wires were soldered from above, directly to the terminals of the radio components, but you can do it a little differently, run them from the bottom.

Wires soldered on the other side of the board

In this case, the wire to the case will pass under the board, from the bottom.

The wire laid under the board must also be fixed

On this occasion, hastily prepared a small photo report with a short, step-by-step description of the actions. Hopefully this will be enough.

We fix the wire

By the way! Such alteration can be arranged in order to adapt the digital set-top box for use in a car. You just need to use a 5 volt 2 ampere car adapter.

That's all! Success to everyone! I would be glad if this information helps you with something!

And now, so to speak, the repair manual
Capacitors:

1 - Problems with the image on the AV output (no image, noise in the picture), sound claps.

8 - Does not start - hangs on the boot; the splash screen appears, and then the blue screen again. In this case, the capacitance, when measured, can correspond to the nominal (low ESR of the capacitor).

9 - Does not turn on - there is no image at all

13 - seems to slow down too

14 - the picture slows down, the image is strewn.

15 is the same as 14, but 14 is more important.

"Does not catch channels" - quartz between C13 - C15

Capacitors in the power supply:

These two capacities affect the performance of the power supply. The power supply unit either does not work at all (output voltage is 0V) or gives a low voltage of 1.7V.

Container 2 swells - you can see it or the insides come out from below.

2. Output AMS1117 - 1.8 V, if there is no such value - go to point 3

3. It should be 3.3v, if there is no such, then the problem is in the capacitor nearby or in the AS11D itself

4. There should be 1.34 V, but even if there is so much, then the problem is still, most likely, in the capacitor - it is better to change it. In this case, nodes 2 and 3 show normal stress values. This is the case when the receiver starts to load and cannot completely do it - the problem is in the capacitor of node 4. AS11D in this node is also not excluded, but the probability of its malfunction is very small, compared to the probability of poor capacity.

THE LARGEST NUMBER OF FAILURES RELATED TO CAPACITIES 8 AND 9 (SEE 1 PHOTO) IF EVEN THE PROBLEM IS NOT IN THEM, WE CHANGE THEM AS A PREVENTION.

Warnings: 1

Posts: 395

Warnings: 1

Posts: 395

Warnings: 1

Posts: 395

Warnings: 1

Posts: 395

Warnings: 1

Posts: 395

On the 1st pin of the IC 2.9v., 2-0v. (Case), 3-1.27v., 4-5v. (In.), 6- 0.6v., These are voltages for 3.3v. IC. On the second IC just lower the voltage on the 6th leg - 0.13v. Raised the choke, the voltage increased to 4.7v. at the exit. IC. Is it a stub in defense?

Resistor divider resistors 56kOhm

its load is only 180mA

I tried to close the divider resistors with tweezers, it reacts to the resistor from the output, by pedaling the voltage to 0.6v. at the output, which does not react to the short circuit on the case.

They brought the receiver for repair. We switched on the 12V power supply instead of 5V.
Failed DC / Dc converters SY8088 (Output short). These CHIPs were not at hand, I installed external adjustable conversion modules, everything worked.
While repairing, I sketched where and at what voltages the stabilizers and where on the board they are located. T.K. I did not find the chassis diagram, maybe someone will come in handy for repairs.

P.S. 1.2V power supply to the core, 20 ohms ringing for ringing. This is normal, the core consumption is 230mA

Cadena SHTA 1511 S2, over-the-air overview.

More recently, we showed you our review of this receiver, in which we watched how it works. Today we will analyze the Cadena SHTA 1511 S2 digital terrestrial receiver, we need it in order to understand what components are used in this receiver.

Looking closely at the plastic housing of the receiver, we see that it is secured with four screws. The screws are simple, without any secrets, we unscrew them without unnecessary efforts and problems.

Cadena SHTA 1511 S2 receiver housing.

Cadena SHTA 1511 S2, receiver decorative cover

The cover was removed from our terrestrial receiver, now we can look at what this receiver has inside.

Cadena SHTA 1511 S2 receiver main board, general view.

Let's start our inspection by looking at what the receiver has as a decoding device and we can see a quite decent and high-quality item that the manufacturer has chosen.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2 receiver decoding module.

Now let's see what our main board consists of, as we can see everything is combined on it, the power supply and the main motherboard are made in the same case.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, digital receiver power supply.

Now let's turn our attention to the marking, how we can see the information. Here is a detailed marking from the manufacturer, applied with paint, as we see, the Russian presence is not noticed here.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, main board information.

Another feature is the fact that in this receiver the front panel is integrated with the common board.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, receiver front panel.

This moment undoubtedly reduces the cost of the final product and reduces the number of components used. This increases the endurance of the device to external influences.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, digital receiver memory.

Now let's look at the memory of the device, there is a classic octopus, which after a certain time of operation can be reset to zero.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, power supply module.

Now let's take a look at the power supply, we will not talk in detail, the photo clearly shows what is used in this receiver.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, front panel control IC.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, digital terrestrial receiver memory.

We smoothly reached the central processor, in order to look at it, we need to remove the radiator.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, digital terrestrial receiver central processing unit.

The heatsink was removed and the numbers of the central processor are revealed in front of us, as we see a rather unusual solution, not many manufacturers use it as the main stone.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, CPU heatsink.

And here is what a radiator looks like, which is designed to remove heat from the central processor, of course, something more could be glued.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, receiver video output control module.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, receiver main board, general view without heatsink.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, digital receiver tuner.

Now let's take a closer look at the main display of the digital terrestrial receiver, there is nothing to add, everything is clearly visible.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, front panel, receiver display.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, control button, LED.

At the same time, you can look at the connector for connecting external memory to this device, in principle, it will be quite difficult to break it.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, external drive connector.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, screw securing main board to plastic tray

It is also worth taking a close look at how the connectors to which the antenna is connected are dropped. Everything is visually normal, but you should not abuse the strength, it can be easily broken if used with excessive force.

Cadena SHTA 1511 S2, antenna connectors.

And finally, I wanted to take another look at how the power cord is connected to this receiver.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, mains cable connector.

Cadena SHTA 1511S2, digital receiver power supply transformer.

Cadena SHTA 1511 S2, capacities on the main board.

Cadena SHTA 1511 S2, external power supply protection module.

Well, you can end there. As you can see, the prefix is ​​quite tolerable and made with high quality. Components are used by leading manufacturers, we see that there is a stock. It all depends on what software will be on it.

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What to do if the DVB-T2 receiver does not turn on, or, as it is called in another way, a digital TV set-top box? From personal experience, I can say that if some device does not turn on at all, the repair will be much easier than when the device works intermittently. We look.

Second channel -
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