The advantages of any home instrument can be fully appreciated only after it fails. This axiom is known to every home craftsman. The presence in the arsenal of a large number of devices has led to the fact that most people simply cannot imagine how to do this or that operation without them.
The circular saw is used to cut evenly on a variety of materials.
This is especially true in the case of a circular saw. The fact is that it is indispensable for longitudinal sawing of wood; it has no worthy analogue among hand tools. This cannot be done with a conventional hand saw. Therefore, when the circular for some reason refuses to work, all work stops. Something needs to be done urgently. However, do not rush to carry it to the workshop, it is quite possible to repair the circular saw yourself.
Circular saw device.
Ironically, the fact that the saw is silent can be a good sign. Here it is not superfluous to mention those faults that are usually printed on the last page of the operation manual. At first glance, they seem ridiculous, but show them a little respect. Check to see if the outlet is energized and the power cord is working. If everything is fine, then there is only one chance to avoid a complete disassembly - to check the brushes.
On the vast majority of circulars, in order to get to the brushes, you need to unscrew two bolts. This assembly consists of two carbon elements that abut against the manifold. Since it constantly rotates, the brushes are subject to wear and tear and over time "freeze", i. E. do not reach him. This is the first thing to pay attention to. In addition, the carbon brushes are connected to the stator terminals. At this point, contact sometimes disappears. Check it. If everything is fine, disassembly cannot be avoided.
The operation itself is quite complicated, some workshops take money for it, regardless of the result of the repair. Each saw has its own design, and precise advice cannot be given. You can figure it out on your own. But what to disassemble in the first place, let's take a closer look.
A very common damage, regardless of brand, is a faulty switch button.
Circular saw device with separate motor.
For all models, it is located in the handle, which, when untwisted, diverges into two parts.
It cannot be halved to the end, it will hold on to other parts, but you can already get to the button, but it will be a little inconvenient. Despite this, it is necessary to check the functionality of the switch with the tester probes.
If it turns out to be faulty, the repair is complete. However, in order to replace the new one, the saw will have to be disassembled completely. But if the button is working, you will have to do this too.
Remove the disc. Now you can remove the protection, which is what you are doing. There are 4 long bolts under it, unscrew them. The sequence and number of parts may be slightly different, but in the end the motor with a gearbox, a handle and an electrical cord should remain in your hands.Disconnect the gearbox, and then it's time to remember how the malfunction manifested itself.
Symptoms of such malfunctions can manifest themselves in different ways, but almost always the work is accompanied by extraneous noise. It can be whistles, rattles, or clicks. Now, while the motor and gearbox are still assembled, it is necessary to establish which of them is faulty. Try to twist the motor by the shaft. It should rotate quite hard, but evenly, i.e. should not wedge.
Circular saw layout.
If the motor shaft does not rotate or jerks, the motor is defective. Disassemble it and watch the bearings. The first one stands in the engine housing, the other on its rotor. We can confidently assume that one of them is to blame. It would be nice to have the first one, it is quite easy to change it.
If the bearing on the engine anchor is to blame, you can safely carry it for repair. It is almost impossible to remove it yourself without a special device. In addition, any attempt to do so may damage the armature. You will not have to carry the entire saw to the workshop, but only the rotor. It is easier and cheaper.
The main malfunction of the gearbox is the wear of the gear teeth. In this case, it must be replaced. You should also pay attention to the splines of the anchor. They shouldn't be damaged either.
These faults are the most common. During operation, a strong sparking occurs unexpectedly in the brush area. Smoke may emit and a burning smell may be felt. Such damage is sometimes very difficult to diagnose. Let's start with the simplest and most expensive case.
Circular saw performance check diagram.
After opening the engine, it turns out that there are traces of burning both on the rotor and on the stator. Everything is clear here. Both must be changed. The option is expensive, but the possibility of error is excluded. Worse when the stator is smoked and the armature is as good as new. At first glance, it seems simple - you need to change the stator. Not at all necessary. The rotor may also be faulty, but be “in the open”. Moreover, he could have caused a more serious breakdown. Determining its malfunction in this case is quite simple.
And the last, the most difficult case, when visually everything is in order. Even if you apply the method described above, this will not guarantee that the rotor is working properly. However, if the device shows an open circuit, then you can try to change it. Basically, in this case, it is better to contact the master. You can't do without special devices.
Very often, a circular saw is bought for a specific purpose. At the same time, the person does not even think about whether she is suitable for this. The fact is that there are professional circulars designed for long-term work, and there are those that can work only 3 hours a day, and even then with interruptions.
Of course, if you work with such a saw without interruption all day, it will definitely burn out. After all, no manufacturer hides what operating mode is provided for a given saw. As a rule, nobody is interested in this. In addition, many, having bought a saw in a store and noticing that she has a disc with victorious solders, decides that it does not need to be sharpened. The result is smoke from the engine. Even such a disk becomes dull over time. The performance of the saw drops dramatically, and you demand the same return from it as before. So she can't stand it.
VIDEO
Therefore, before actively using the circular saw, read the instructions and consult with specialists. The same applies to the work of chainsaws and other tools. Maybe after that repairs will not be required. Good luck!
taels wrote: My cell is 4.7 mm.
Then everything fits roughly.
I'll raise the topic. I have C7MFA, the warranty ended six months ago.At the same time, smoke appeared during operation, the saw was cooled, after which it worked regularly for several months. 40-ku along if and sawed - it is very little. 90% of the work is diagonal inches (I built 2 sheds). Yesterday something happened that should have happened a long time ago - the engine jammed. I think it's useless to carry it for repairs - it's easier to take a new one. There is another option - to disassemble it yourself. What can be changed there? Seized bearing?
Pu1sat0r wrote: Seized bearing?
This is unlikely to be the only cost. No matter how you have to change both the housing and the rotor with the stator. Our rotor is almost half the cost of a saw
Ramir wrote: This is unlikely to be the only cost. It would not be necessary to change both the housing and the rotor with the stator. Our rotor is almost half the cost of a saw
When you press the button, the engine hums and tries to twitch, so there is a chance that it is alive. Is it really possible to disassemble it yourself? How to get to the bearing?
Pu1sat0r, everything is pretty simple there. only during the disassembly process, take step-by-step photos (then it's easier to assemble)
Pu1sat0r wrote: When you press the button, the engine hums and tries to twitch
as well as signs of a short circuit of a stator or an anchor, it is easier and cheaper for you to buy a new one if there is work for the saw, and leave this for spare parts. And if you want to kill a couple of days for repairs then please "> ” >
Redesign of chargers and more
Pu1sat0r wrote: When you press the button, the engine hums and tries to twitch, so there is a chance that it is alive. Is it really possible to disassemble it yourself? How to get to the bearing?
The bearing is not a fact, because
Pu1sat0r wrote: smoke appeared during operation, the saw was cooled, after which it worked properly for several months.
Maybe a bearing with a housing (at the collector). Maybe a stator. Maybe an anchor. Maybe in stages, all of the above. After disassembly, visually check the coils on the stator, on the armature (if there are any darkening), on the collector armature there should be a uniform color of the brush spots. Next, check the stator in terms of resistance and current, the coils must be the same in terms of values. Check the anchor for short circuit. Well, of course, check the armature and landing bearings on the housings. It may be difficult for the armature to leave the stator (this is if the stator coils are melted and do not allow the armature to come out). Something like this.
Falkon58 wrote: It may be difficult for the armature to leave the stator (this is if the stator coils are melted and do not allow the armature to come out)
It looks like I have just this case. The anchor is jammed, so it does not come out. How can you warm it up?
Pu1sat0r wrote: It looks like I have just this case. The anchor is jammed, so it does not come out. How can you warm it up?
At home, nothing comes to mind like a hot air gun. Technical.
After spending 2 months in the barn, the circular came to life! The anchor rotates, though heavy and with a foreign smell. The back side gets very hot, as I understand it, the bearing is located there. The question of how to pull out the anchor remains relevant, I post a photo: ">
There are no answers, the other day I handed it over to the service. They took 350r for the diagnosis. The next day they called back, said the repair and spare parts cost 2490, but taking into account 350r. paid for diagnostics, you need to pay 2140r.
I said ok, order spare parts. Today they call - the saw is ready. We changed the stator, housing (the rear bearing melted in it) and the bearing itself.
I apologize for the numerous messages, but maybe someone will be helpful.
Bearing number 608DDW (cost on 01/30/15 170r.) Stator housing number 323-929 (cost as of 01/30/15 1520 rubles.)
Work 0.8 standard hours = 800r.
I wanted to buy my own disc 1.6 mm thick, they said no and never happens. About how the office answers. Hitachi dealer and service center! Where to find one?
Pu1sat0r wrote: I wanted to buy my own disc 1.6 mm thick, they said no and never happens. About how the office answers. Hitachi dealer and service center! Where to find one?
not an easy task. you can look for analogs at SMT
the bungler wrote: not an easy task. you can look for analogs at SMT
Makita has good discs with 2 mm thick teeth and with a different number of teeth, for ripping pine I recommend 12 teeth
Podmasterii wrote: Makita has good discs with 2 mm thick teeth and with a different number of teeth, for ripping pine I recommend 12 teeth
I charged a 12-tooth attack - quite bearable and finishing 2.4 by 40 teeth (hitachi). if not in a hurry, then completely
bungler, 1.6 versus 2.4mm, as it were, are very different discs.
Valmemst wrote: bungler, 1.6 versus 2.4mm, as it were, are very different discs.
whichever is in priority
bungler, Longitudinal cutting and saw power, I meant it.
Valmemst wrote: bungler, Longitudinal cutting and saw power, I meant it.
well, there and in appearance it is clear that the saw is not for continuous dissolution of the 50's
Pu1sat0r, look at Hilti - they even have a Teflon coating, and a kerf of 1.8 mm
Pu1sat0r wrote: I wanted to buy my own disc 1.6 mm thick, they said no and never happens. About how the office answers. Hitachi dealer and service center! Where to find one?
In a flea market, a man sells consumables from St. Petersburg, by the way.
)
Serjant wrote: unfortunately, I am not very versed in Hitachi saws, and even more so in Hitachi rigging, but I will allow myself a small question. Have you tried to attach a plastic outlet from ordinary plastic water pipes to the shavings hole? there are such gray with rubber cuffs inside. 40mm dia. is in any hardware store. The funniest thing is that these taps cost well, a maximum of 50 rubles and fit perfectly with vacuum hoses and do not mind cutting the detail in order to fit it in place. I got such a trick with an electric plane (it's just important now) the amount of shavings there is several times more than from circulars and maybe this solution will save you. photo below
I tried and this is what happened
I'll post it today. By the way, to say that absolutely everything catches - this is a lie. Yes, the saw does not litter as much as without a whistle, but still it will not work without noise and dust
Vitaly1972 wrote: In July it will be a year since I bought it, I worked today, one might say, for the first time (before that there were several transverse cuts of 50s, no more than 10, I just checked how it works). And today I sawed along a 40-ku on a picket fence. In total, it turned out about 80 linear meters of sawing. Clamping her did not clamp, she did not stop. from time to time I checked for a hot motor. But, here, I felt that I had stopped pulling, although it was spinning. I looked, and the casing from the engine side, where the bearing was, the casing melted just in a circle, the pastas left, under it there was a washer and the bearing was visible. From there, as if squeezed out some kind of grease (black). Interestingly, after 10 seconds it became solid. Question: is there any way to take her to the masera? I understand that there is no guarantee here, and the replacement of the case (as a minimum) will come out in 60% of its cost. And in general, tell me for the future what might be the reason and how to use this kind of tool correctly. The instructions do not say anything about the timing of work and respite
Vitaly1972, I had the same thing with the same saw. On sawing a magpie along, something crunched and stopped pulling. The saw has been actively used for 3 years. I put it aside in the barn and bought a DeWalt which I saw successfully now. Now, after 6 years, I took out this Hitachi and disassembled it. The rear armature bearing is wedged and covered in black hardened bullshit too. The housing did not burn through, so I think you just need to replace the bearing, no other external damage was found. The only thing I did not understand was that the bearing was simply lying in a plastic niche or was pressed in. The conclusion is that the bearing of this saw does not withstand serious loads and it wedges.
on the development of the channel! WebMoney R318628121132
Why C 7MFA. Looks like C7SS. C 7MFA, after all, in this signature “insect-plant” design. Or is it still old ?? Before?? :)) And vaasche, what is the difference between them. 🙂
Vitaly Burankin Hace 3 meses
Externally, ss has a different handle. engine casings are similar but article numbers are different
Alexander Klimov Hace 6 meses
Hello, please tell me how you can solder the wiring to the spring that stands behind the stator where the counters are located
Alexander Klimov Hace 6 meses
If you can shoot a video of how you can do it, I had such a situation
Eh, friend, everything interesting remained behind the scenes. What kind of sleeve is there, I do not quite understand, by the diameter of the hole in the bearing? Where should the epoxy go? so as to pour over the outer ring of the bearing, but not get on the inner one and for this they glued something? What generally holds the bearing in the center, the sleeve on epoxy, or the epoxy itself. Sorry if the questions are stupid, there is no room for error. The same garbage happened, and when it got jammed I don't know, apparently I sawed 1-2 boards and didn't notice, but then I sawed through the meter and it started to smoke. Only my bearing melted there and the anchor did not want to go out, so I tapped the body on the chair to jump out, turned it on again to warm up, knocked again, but in the end the anchor flew out, and the bearing remained inside, now with a soldering iron, probably, melt from there, there a lot of plastic squeezed out around.
Tell me, did you take your own bearing or just the same size? If the latter, how much did it cost? And another question: did you examine the anchor, were there any defects on the manifold?
master- 12volt Hace 8 meses
R220h yes there is nothing, to answer questions to everyone and help, center it and everything should work out.
Thank you very much for the quick response! I will try your method, the problem is one to one, but, unfortunately, the anchor also got it.
master- 12volt Hace 8 meses
R220h for all questions write to icq 725652259
master- 12volt Hace 8 meses
At the moment it has passed the tests, no complaints.
master- 12volt Hace 8 meses
master- 12volt Hace 11 meses
Kostya Volkov Hace 11 meses
it was possible to lubricate the bearing with simple vegetable oil when filling with glue, then there is a 99% probability that the bearing will not stick
Hello! I have the same saw served for a very long time, but recently smoke came out of it. It's his own fault, he overheated her. I decided to take it apart, but the anchor is not removed. It scrolls but cannot be pulled out. I want to see what was burned there and if there is a chance to restore it. How did you get it out? There is a bearing, a white impeller and some other black round bushing along the inner radius of the green housing, everything moves but does not come out. Please tell me how to be. Thank you)
master- 12volt Hace un año
theaquadrops Look, as I understand it, you have the same thing as I had Yes, I also had smoke and the same situation, but at the moment, catapilla has been working since that moment. WhatsApp Viber write your data we will dock with you we will be friends
Thank you. Disassembled. Indeed, the rear bearing is wedged, scrolling, but with difficulty. There are some caked black pieces in the area of the rear bearing attachment. The stator winding looks alive, like the rotor itself. Maybe the smoke is due to a wedged bearing, which in turn heated up and began to scroll in the housing seat? And the black lumps are what fixed the bearing in the housing? In short, your case)))
master- 12volt Hace un año
theaquadrops the good calmly climbs out there the bearing is inserted into the plastic of the housing it happens when the bearing wedges, starts displacement and when pulled out it does not go
I would also add a ruler to measure the width with a corner, and ideally still calculate the table using a ruler to set a certain angle when cutting
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In principle, the saw can be said to be a clone of Makitovskaya 2414NB
The anchor really has already been shaken by someone, but the joint was not removed during assembly, as a result, everything died almost without working. The bump of the stator, as always, climbs out “sideways”. For some reason, many collectors do not pay attention to this at all.
finally came across this half-hypoid scarecrow.
I got such a rare saw from Makita 5016B. Cool saw, nothing more, everything is simple and reliable. There were previously similar Chinese saws, now it is clear where the legs grow from. Actually, the problem is banal. licked the asterisk. But the trick is that this saw is not in the service program.There are 5016 and 5016NB, but that's not it. I rummaged in the net, I immediately came across the topic, but there we are talking about a fake and rem273 did not find anything in the archives. In short, the question is ripe. Having rummaged through the diagrams, I drew attention to the asterisk 210224010, can anyone have the available sizes to check? It is similar and also 6 teeth, maybe it will work. I would order, in principle, it is not expensive, but we do not have them in stock, it must be ordered.
on the development of the channel! WebMoney R318628121132.
A practical answer to criticism of the Hitachi circular. type of sleeve, overheating, etc. Nothing of the kind - a bearing.
Repairing a Chinese instrument is not always cheap, sometimes it is easier to buy a new one than to repair an old one.
Dust extractor for circular saw HITACHI C7MFA.
One day, my manual circular stopped working, I took it apart, checked it. Renovated.
Circular saw Hitachi C7MFA - Main characteristics: Rated power consumption 1010 W Diameter of the saw.
Repairing a Chinese instrument is not always cheap, sometimes it is easier to buy a new one than to repair an old one.
Repair of the circular saw Zubr ZPD-1300. Lack of these drank. I will add that the stator winding turned out to be wrong.
on the development of the channel! WebMoney R318628121132.
Small breakage and repair of the saw after strenuous use. Cutting doors to size Plunge saw.
Do not press the lock during operation. My affiliate program on You Tube:
We make a miter saw from a burnt out manual, electric saw.
Cost-effective plunge-cut saw Status SP 110U with a wide range of applications. Already in the kit there are four.
Very often, in a hand-held circular saw, the disc turns, which wears out the seat and quickly pulls out.
How to make repairs to replace the stator with your own hands. And any other power tool. The main thing.
e-katalog Russia: e-katalog.
Sometimes they bring funny things, they seem to have done everything themselves, changed the wire, screwed the plug, but the wire.
bearing replacement, but I took it off as it understands and some points. My second channel, video almost every day.
You can make a mini CIRCULAR from BULGARKA with your own hands. The circular saw from the hand-held circular saw is compact.
Due to active use, the equipment often needs repair. However, repairs to circular saws may be required even with moderate workloads. In the process of using and maintaining circular saws, popularly called circulars, you should take into account some of the nuances of their functioning, be able to diagnose and, if possible, fix problems.
Circular saw device.
If the saw loses power, starts to jam and stops, these are unambiguous symptoms of its failure. Additional signs that indicate a device malfunction include engine overheating, difficulty starting, smoke or burning odors, and internal arcing. In all these cases, the instrument must be immediately taken out of service and sent for diagnostics. For the purpose of repairing a circular saw, they usually turn to the services of craftsmen, but there are ways to cope with the breakdown on your own.
A circular saw is a very handy and practical tool that allows you to implement a variety of ways of processing wood. With its help, you can cut boards along and across, without restrictions on sizes and distances, make slats, remove excess material piece by piece. Such a device is indispensable when working at height, in tight and inaccessible places, where large-sized and stationary analogs are powerless.
Like any electrical appliance, these saws vary in quality and permissible operating intensity. Experts distinguish two main classes: industrial and household. An industrial circular saw is designed for use under conditions of prolonged intensive use, and a household saw is considered a low-quality tool for which failure is common.
Circular saw tooth device diagram.
It is with the latter type of device that you most often have to deal with when working at home. Household saws are designed for occasional short-term use, but even this does not save them from frequent breakdowns. These power tools generally do not have power controls, protective devices or fuses.There is only a power button.
Such a tool is especially vulnerable to various malfunctions and can break at any time. The main reasons why this can happen:
short circuit;
excessive load on the engine;
sloppy handling;
strong pressure;
work with a blunt saw blade;
misuse of the tool.
Circular saw layout.
First of all, when repairing circular saws, it is recommended to use a LATR (adjustable laboratory autotransformer) designed for a load of at least 9 A and equipped with a built-in linear ammeter and voltmeter. For safety reasons, the LATR should be connected to the mains through an isolation transformer with a 1: 1 transmission ratio. These measures will help to exclude possible damage to the electrical wiring and induction of noise in the network due to short circuits and errors in handling the unit.
Circular saw repair begins with determining the nature of the malfunction. This can be mechanical damage or failure of any electrical component. Localization of a breakdown is carried out on the basis of certain signs. For example, from the inside of the instrument there is smoke with a pungent burning smell, unusual sounds, noise and whistling are heard during operation.
However, sometimes the saw doesn't work at all. No sounds, no smell - it does not turn on. Paradoxically, this case is the most optimistic, since the reason for this inoperability may lie in a banal violation of the integrity of the power cord or a break in its contacts. Therefore, first of all, we check the supply wires for an open.
Circular saw performance check diagram.
If everything is in order with the cord, you should not rush to disassemble the device. Before doing this, it is better to check the contact brushes. These are elements of the so-called sliding contact, which are designed to supply current to moving rotating elements of electrical devices. They are several small blocks made of special conductive material (coal or graphite), resting directly on the collector (rotor part of the electric motor).
Due to the constant rotation of the collector, the brushes wear out strongly, rubbing against moving surfaces. After some time of operation, they grind down to the point that they can simply "hover" over the contact pads, without reaching them. In addition, sometimes there is a breakdown of contact at the junction of the brushes with the stator terminals. All this should be regularly checked and corrected, for which most tools provide a special casing or cover with easily unscrewed bolts.
Disassembling a circular saw is a rather complicated process; it is individual for each individual device. Nevertheless, if everything is in order with the cord and brushes, and the device still does not work, the disassembly of the case is inevitable.
Circular saw voltage regulator.
The body of most such electrical appliances consists of two halves fastened together with a longitudinal seam between them. After removing the disc and unscrewing the bolts and other fasteners, carefully open the shell, being careful not to damage the internal elements and not lead to even more serious damage.
Regardless of the brand and build quality, one of the most vulnerable points of such units is the power button. Its malfunction is a very common cause of performance problems.
For most models, this button is usually located in the handle of the device. By unscrewing and disconnecting the case, you can get direct access to it. We check the serviceability of the switch using a tester. If there is no contact closure when pressed, the button is replaced.
At this stage, it is worth remembering how the circular saw showed itself in the event of a breakdown, what signs it was accompanied by.Mechanical damage is almost always accompanied by the occurrence of extraneous noise: whistling, crackling, grinding, etc. In this case, first of all, we try to turn the motor shaft: it should rotate evenly and not too tightly, without wedging and vibrations.
Circular motor protection.
If violations are observed, we disassemble the engine and carefully inspect the bearings in the housing and on the rotor: in all likelihood, one of them is guilty. Another possible defect is wear of the teeth of the gears of the gearbox. Broken parts must be replaced. It should be borne in mind that some operations, for example, removing the bearing from the motor armature, should not be done independently, but it is better to contact a master with special equipment.
Malfunctioning rotor and stator is a common problem. Its main features are strong sparking and smoke in the brush compartment, accompanied by a characteristic odor. If, when disassembling the tool, strongly noticeable traces of burning are revealed, it is necessary to replace all burned parts with new ones. In the same case, when the armature looks intact, and there is a layer of soot on the stator, you should not rush to change the stator, since the problem may also lie in the rotor (not even in the rotor itself, but in its windings, where a wire break could occur).
It is not difficult to check the armature for a break: for this we disconnect the stator contacts from the graphite brushes and fix the tester probes so that they contact the engine windings through the brushes. The tester should show little resistance. Then we begin to slowly turn the motor shaft, without stopping to follow the readings of the device. At some point, the resistance can increase sharply: this will mean that the anchor is broken and must be replaced.
A circular saw is a faithful assistant when processing and cutting wood materials. We have considered all methods of repairing it practically implemented at home.
However, many breakdowns can be avoided if you follow the elementary operating rules specified in the instructions for each device.
It is usually allowed to use the saw no more than a few hours a day with obligatory breaks. Also, you should only work with well-sharpened, sharp discs.
Posted by yoorikan on Sep 24, 2014 in Tools and Equipment
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KGB has published an article in Tools and Equipment, October 3, article
Sano posted a blog post in Slab Furniture, Oct 6, blog post
The first attempts to make something out of the brought slabs. Although there may be attempts, the material costs money and the margin for error is as much as there is money in your pocket. Train at your own expense, as they say.
Therefore, each board is carefully examined and measured, the proverb about seven times measure in action.
The work itself is not tricky, creative, there are several boards and you need to pick them up so that it looks beautiful and there is no overrun. All adjustments to the size and trimming are done with the minimum possible material removal, simply sawed off a bit here, cut it off a little there with a chisel.
windsor posted a topic in Our works, August 8, 2017, topic
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Nikolay911 posted a topic in Plumbing, plumbing, heating, sewerage, October 1, topic
SB3 posted a blog post to Interesting by SB3, Oct 7, blog post
Greetings, I will continue what I started in the entry “Electrician. How things really are. ”.
The record will be gradually updated). "Pictures" will be
Sano posted a blog entry in Slab Furniture, Wednesday at 9:16 pm, blog entry
Filling the slab with epoxy resin. First pouring resin onto the slab.
It is necessary to put the slabs on a flat base, for me it is a chipboard sheet, while the base sheet itself should lie strictly horizontally.
Sano posted a blog entry in Slab Furniture, September 27th, blog post
So I lived to see my workshop, which needs to be equipped and supplemented with various instruments for a long time and persistently.
But the main thing is there is a warm room, although not your own, there is where to work until they are kicked out.
This warehouse is quite spacious, if you remove everything you don't need, so you have to do a lot to get to work at least somehow. And the first thing I did was take out too much and started assembling a large desktop.