DIY gas boiler circulation pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a gas boiler circulation pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Owners of autonomous heating know that a circulation pump is needed for normal circulation of the coolant.

Private houses, in general, are located far from service centers or workshops, so it is worthwhile to master the repair of the circulation pump with your own hands.

The pump, like other equipment, needs maintenance. To prevent breakdowns, you must follow these recommendations:

In summer, when the device is not working, it must be turned on at least once a month for 15 minutes. But at the same time, the device should not run dry: if the pipes are currently empty, they simply pump water from one container to another, connecting the unit to them with hoses. This procedure will prevent oxidation of the shaft surface and prolong bearing life.
During the heating season, attention should be paid to the operation of the device from time to time. Has the unit started to make noise, vibrate, or other signs of malfunction? Is the circulation pump not getting too hot? After all, the early stage of the malfunction is much easier to eliminate than the neglected one.
If there is a coarse filter in the heating system in front of the pump, then it is periodically checked for rust or other contaminants.
Do not forget about the lubricant and check its sufficient availability in the provided places.

General arrangement of the circulation pump

Compliance with all operating rules of the device does not guarantee the uninterrupted operation of the unit. Breakdowns may occur that do not depend on human actions: a filter clogged, voltage drops, etc.

If the engine does not turn on, but the pump does not generate hum or other strange sounds, it is worth checking the fuse. It reacts sharply to power surges and melts when the engine is threatened, thereby breaking the electrical circuit. In this case, the fuse will have to be replaced, after which the device will return to normal operation.

Video (click to play).

If the failure was not in the fuse, check the power cable, the circuit breaker in the junction box, and the electrical wiring. The wire section or switch may need to be replaced.

After checking the wiring, it is worth moving on to the winding of the electric motor. Its serviceability is checked by measuring the resistance. The multimeter should read 10-15 ohms. Some units are equipped with a starting winding with a resistance of 35-40 ohms.

If the multimeter displays "infinity", then the winding is out of order. And when the readings are closer to zero, an inter-turn closure happened. In this case, turning on the device is accompanied by the fuses in the panel blown.

Circulation pump testing

Modern devices have a low noise level, so often the owner of such a unit cannot understand - is it working or not? To diagnose the device, use the indicator tester of the rotation of the circulation pump shaft, which will show without the mains whether the device is working properly. To do this, you need to bring your indicator to the motor shaft and the scale will show whether the shaft rotates or does not work at all.

When the circulation pump hums, but the shaft with the impeller does not rotate, it is worth immediately turning off the unit, because the motor winding may burn out. There are several reasons for this malfunction:

The shaft does not work due to downtime during the summer. For the same reason, the impeller sticks to the casing. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the device and manually turn the shaft.Manufacturers took this moment into account, so a notch for a screwdriver is made on the shaft.
The impeller does not rotate due to a foreign object in the chamber. After removing it, the system will resume.

If the device makes unusual noise during operation, it may be trapped air in the system. For removal, it is recommended to install an automatic air vent on the heating circuit. But if it is not there, then the air is vented manually.
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The device temperature must match the temperature of the heating medium pipes. If it rises higher, it means that errors were made during installation, or improper operation takes place. The circulation unit can heat up for the following reasons:

New generation circulation pump device

initially incorrect installation. It is not difficult to determine the problem: the pump heats up at the initial stage, immediately after installation.
blockage in the system. With prolonged operation, deposits and rust accumulate in the pipes, which leads to a decrease in the water passage. The device is overloaded to ensure normal circulation of the heating medium. At the same time, the engine overheats, but unscheduled maintenance can cope with the breakdown.
foreign body. With slagged communications, pieces of rust or plaque break off from pipes and radiators, which, when they enter the device, jam the electric motor. If the device is not disassembled and cleaned in time, the motor coils may well fail and the device will simply stop turning on.
lack of lubricant for bearings. With an insufficient amount of lubricant, the bearings are poorly lubricated and wear out quickly, which leads to a reduction in the service life of the unit as a whole. If the engine is seized as a result, the pump is dismantled and returned to the service center.
low voltage in the network. At a voltage below 220 V, the electric motor overheats and quickly fails. In the first minutes of overheating, it is worth checking the voltage in the network with a voltmeter, because the problem may not be in the pump.

One of the problems that happens with heating units is the operation of the pump without pumping water. There are four reasons for this condition:

air ingress or water leakage, which is eliminated by repairing holes and cracks in pipes;
incorrect regulation of the heating system. The malfunction is solved by checking the correct position of the taps (primarily to the pump);
no water. It is worth repairing such a malfunction by supplying water to the device.
Blocked or stuck valve. To eliminate it, the valve should be repaired or replaced.

To repair the circulation pump, it must be dismantled and disassembled. Dismantle the device according to the following scheme:

Dismantling the circulation pump

The unit is disconnected from the power supply. In order to disconnect the cable from the terminal box, it is necessary to remove the case from the power supply unit of the device.
Shut off the liquid supply with the side valves and drain the remainder in the system.
The device is unscrewed with a hex screwdriver, but suddenly the bolts have become stuck, they are moistened with a special WD liquid and after 20-30 minutes they try to unscrew again.

After dismantling, the unit cover is removed. Under it is a rotor with a wheel and blades. Basically, the rotor is secured with clamps or bolts. After removing it, access to the inside of the device opens. By carefully examining the pump, malfunctions are detected and eliminated.
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Replacing the repair kit for the circulation device includes:

disassembly of the pumping part of the device;
replacement of components;
checking engine operation;
assembly of the device;
diagnostics of equipment operation.

Some manufacturers offer a ready-made repair kit for pumping equipment. For example, a repair kit for a circulation pump u4814 with a capacity of 5200 l / h, a voltage of 12/24 V and a branch pipe diameter of 38 mm.Buying such a kit will reduce the waste of time and money.

It is worth repairing the circulation device with your own hands only after the expiration of the warranty period or if it is impossible to call a repair specialist. Some pump assemblies are difficult to find on the free market, which is explained by the trade policy of manufacturers.

Therefore, in some cases it will be more economical to buy a new device, rather than repair a broken one.

Do-it-yourself heating circulation pump repair is a rather difficult task. To do it correctly, you need to understand the design and features of such equipment.

Pump circulation devices, often called pumps, are popular among owners of summer cottages, private housing construction, apartments with autonomous heating, and country cottages. The choice of such devices is quite large these days. Circulation pumps differ from each other in technical characteristics. However, their overall design remains unchanged.

The device of the circulation pump is as follows: the device has a housing made of carbon steel, stainless steel or strong aluminum-based alloys. The pump is made elongated horizontally. An electric motor with a rotor is installed in the housing. The motor power is quite high. It varies depending on the equipment model. The rotor is equipped with an impeller made of ultra-strong polymer compounds or steel. It is equipped with special blades. They bend in the opposite direction to the rotation of the wheel.

An electric motor with a rotor is installed in the pump housing

In some cases, the pumping equipment assemblies are not enclosed in one casing, but in several separate blocks. Such pumps for two- and one-pipe heating systems are called console. There are two types of pumps - wet and dry. The first of these devices are made in the form of a monoblock. They have an affordable cost, they work almost silently. Dry pumps are in most cases made of cantilever type. The electric motor is installed in a separate unit. The rotor of the engine gets rotation through a special coupling. Dry pumps are structurally more complex due to the presence of a drive mechanism.

The principle of operation of the described devices:

After starting, the electric motor starts to rotate the impeller on the rotor.
The liquid enters the central part of the pump device.
The blades on the impeller throw the used heat carrier (oil, water) to the outside of the housing.
Centrifugal force begins to act on the liquid. Due to this, the coolant enters the outlet pipe.

After all these operations, a drop in pressure is observed in the chamber, due to which the pump receives another portion of the pumped liquid. This ensures the continuity of the pump.

Repairing circulation pumps requires dismantling and (usually) disassembling them. Removing the pump is easy. You will need to de-energize the device, close the bypass heating pipe - bypass, if one has been installed, and then carefully unscrew all the shut-off valves that fix the pump. Then you can safely dismantle the pump.

You will have to tinker with the disassembly of the device a little longer. But this operation is quite feasible. Stock up in advance with a hexagon, a Phillips screwdriver, a liquid wrench - a special aerosol composition that is applied to fasteners that have become stuck during operation and allows you to unscrew the latter without difficulty. If the pump has not been disassembled for a very long time, the use of the specified aerosol is mandatory. How to disassemble a circulation pump?

Follow the instructions below:

1. Unscrew the bolts that secure the mechanism cover. Don't forget to use a liquid key!

2. Remove the cover. The rotor is located under it. Its fastening is most often done with bolts.Less commonly, special clamps are used.

3. Unscrew the bolts (release the locking elements).

Disassembly of the pump is complete. All units and individual parts of the circulation device are located under the rotor. It is not necessary to disassemble the pump down to the bolts. First, you should decide which element is out of order, and only then remove the specific part that needs to be replaced or repaired. If the entire pump needs to be replaced, simply dismantle it. It is not necessary to completely disassemble the mechanism. Remove the equipment that has failed. Install a new one in its place.Pumps from different manufacturers have been shown to have the same design. Therefore, their faults, as a rule, are the same. Many users are faced with the fact that the circulation device starts to hum when starting, but the rotor does not rotate. A similar problem occurs due to:

Incorrect connection of electrical wiring or lack of power on the terminals of the pump. The problem is solved by checking the power supply with the tester and reconnecting (correct!) Cables.

Oxidation of the motor shaft. This phenomenon is most often observed in cases where the pump has not been used for a long (several years) time. Do-it-yourself repair in such a situation will be as follows - turn off the power, drain the water from the pipeline and the pump itself, disassemble the electric motor (remove the cover and rotor). Now the main thing. You need to take a screwdriver and turn the rotor all the way into the working notch. The operation can also be performed by hand if the mechanism rotates without difficulty.

Foreign objects falling into the mechanism. You need to disassemble the cover and rotor. Remove foreign body. After that, be sure to replace the mesh filter. As a rule, a foreign object will disable it.

Circulation device in the heating systemIf the pump starts up normally and then stops, it is most likely not properly connected to the terminals. Check it out. Make a proper connection if necessary. Another reason for the described breakdown is the appearance of scale between the rotating units of the mechanism. Disassemble the unit, remove the existing limescale, lubricate the joints of all parts with oil. Sometimes the pump stops due to a loose fuse. It is necessary to dismantle this element and clean the clamps securing it.A defective fuse is often the reason the pumping equipment will not turn on.Check the terminals, measure the voltage at the terminals with a multimeter. If the fuse is broken, replace it. Such situations are often encountered due to power surges in the power grid. If you do not want to constantly put a new fuse, connect a stabilizer to the equipment. It will reliably protect the system from voltage surges.The pump may make a loud noise when starting up. This signals that air has entered the closed circuit of the circulating system. They prevent such a phenomenon by installing specials. node in the pipeline. Such a small element eliminates the possibility of air congestion in the system. If a special assembly has not been installed, you will have to purge the pipeline. Severe noise, as well as perceptible vibration, sometimes occur due to wear on the bearing, which is placed on the impeller wheel. Disassemble the housing of the unit, analyze the condition of the bearing, replace it with a new one if necessary.Circulation pump repairWhen the pump does not provide the required pressure of the coolant, the reason lies in the wrong (in the opposite direction) rotation of the impeller. This problem only occurs when pumping equipment is connected to a 380-volt mains supply. The solution is to connect the wire to the correct phase. Also, the head decreases with an increase in the viscosity of the coolant.In situations like this, the wheel encounters high resistance and cannot fulfill its function. You will need to remove the strainer from the pump, clean it or replace it.As you can see, it is quite possible to repair the circulation pump with your own hands. Of course, when it comes to common breakdowns. In other cases, it is better to entrust the restoration of the pump to the specialists of the service centers.Proper handling and regular maintenance of pumping equipment eliminates the need for repair work for many years. Consider the following when operating your pump:

Do not start the pump if the piping is not filled with thermal fluid.

Turn on the circulation equipment at least once a month for 15–20 minutes. Prolonged downtime of the pump is guaranteed to lead to malfunctions of its individual components and mechanisms.

Follow the manufacturer's recommended volume of pumped liquid. If the device is designed for 100 liters of coolant per hour, it is forbidden to pump more water through it.

Before the start of the heating season, check the system for leaks, the correct connection of the circulation unit to the mains. Carry out test runs of the pump to ensure that there is no vibration or abnormal noise.

A number of simple requirements apply to any circulation pump:

Do not allow the pump to idle in the absence of water. Applies to both wet and dry pump.
The pump must not be allowed to operate with a stopped flow of water, for example, if a valve is closed in front of or after the pump.
It is necessary to determine the optimal mode of operation, taking into account the maximum and minimum capacity of the equipment.
It is important to comply with the manufacturer's requirements for the nominal water pressure in the system.
The coolant temperature should not exceed 65 ° C. Therefore, the circulation pump is installed on the return line in front of the boiler, where the already cooled water flows. When a predetermined threshold is exceeded, the process of deposition of hardness salts on the inner surfaces of the pump is accelerated many times over.
Prolonged downtime should not be allowed. About once a month or two, it is advisable to turn on the pump for 15 minutes. If this is not done, then during the oxidation process, the risk of shaft seizure increases.
It is unacceptable to use a circulation pump for pumping dirty water with the inclusion of dense particles in suspension.A coarse filter must be installed, or the purity of the water or heat carrier is monitored in other ways.

In operating mode, the pump should have a uniform sound of the operating drive and a constant value of the head at the outlet, which is controlled by the installed pressure gauge. With good handling, even the simplest circulation pump can operate for up to 5 years until its main elements wear out.

Almost all circulation pumps are of centrifugal type. They have an impeller fixed on the motor shaft and placed in a special “shell” chamber. The entrance to the shell is located in the center, while the exit is the outer edge of the shell with a channel extending along the circumference in the direction of motion of the impeller. The engine spins the impeller, and the water, under the influence of centripetal force, rushes from the center to the edges of the sink from inlet to outlet.

Structural elements of the pump:

pumping part, sink and impeller fixed on the shaft;
electric motor;
electronic control unit.

The most susceptible to wear is the moving part of the pump - the motor shaft and impeller, as well as the bearings on which they are attached.

Long service life and trouble-free operation is possible only if proper operating conditions are observed and the pump is regularly prevented. Service refers to the periodic inspection and cleaning of the pump. Inspection for deviations in work should be carried out at least once a quarter, that is, twice during the heating season. It is advisable to clean it every two to three years, depending on the quality of the water and the conditions in which the pump operates.

During the entire period of operation, it is advisable to periodically check the operation of the pump:

The connections are checked for leaks. If detected, gaskets and seals (tow, FUM-tape, etc.) are replaced.
The presence and condition of grounding is visually checked.
The sound of a running engine should not be accompanied by clanks or bumps, extraneous sounds.
The engine should not vibrate too much.
The pressure in the line is checked and its compliance with the nominal one.
The housing must be clean and dry. If this is not the case, then external cleaning should be carried out, the electronic unit should be checked for flooding and the reason why the pump was wet should be eliminated.

It is advisable to clean the pump, including all its elements, about once every two to three years. This only applies to disassembled models. There are pumps with a pressed-in or one-piece, welded casing, which does not involve repair or disassembly. Such units fail and are then replaced with a new assembly. It is advisable to entrust this work to the service center. However, if you have the skills and the tool, you can do everything yourself.

Before disassembling the pump, water is drained from the system or a separate section in which the pump is involved is drained, dismantle it and then proceed to disassembly.

With a hex wrench or a Phillips screwdriver, 4-6 bolts are unscrewed around the perimeter of the engine housing at the junction with the pump shell.
Remove the shell, while the impeller will remain on the rotor shaft with the motor.
Locate four drainage holes around the perimeter. Using a narrow slotted screwdriver, pry up the jacket of the engine compartment under the impeller little by little around the perimeter. As a result, the shaft with the rotor and the impeller will come out of the slots and the stator cup. You can help yourself if you unscrew the protective plug on the outside of the pump, insert a screwdriver into the slot on the end of the shaft and knock the shaft out of the support bearing with light blows.

The analysis is now complete. Now it is necessary to clean the surface of the rotor, impeller and the inner surface of the shell from plaque and scale, if any, just without damaging the surface of the parts. It is not permissible to use coarse abrasives. Better to act with a brush with a polymer hard bristle.Cleaning agents containing a mild hydrochloric acid solution may help. In extreme cases, the smallest emery is used - "zero".

For glandless pumps, it is important to check the cleanliness of the bore inside the shaft and the drain holes located in the protective jacket separating the area of the pumping part and the motor. The liquid enters the rotor just through these holes and then returns through the inner channel, if they are clogged, the cooling of the engine suffers.

For pumps with dry rotor waterproofing of the support bearing is important. If a leak is found from the pump block to the stator block, then completely replace all gaskets and seals inside the device.

The condition of the bearings on which the shaft rests is checked. If they are already broken in order, they will need to be replaced, which is extremely difficult to do at home, you will have to contact a service center.

All seals and gaskets inside the pump should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary. Once all the elements are cleaned and checked, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

The circulation pump needs cleaning

By the way the pump works, sound, vibration or a change in pressure, outlet pressure, it is necessary to accurately determine the malfunction and eliminate the cause.

The circulation pump is a frequent element of the individual heating system in your own homes. Such a device allows you to efficiently drive the coolant along a closed loop, thereby ensuring a constant temperature in all sections of the heating system and the complete absence of air jams in the same place. But even with the most reliable equipment, sometimes there are troubles in the form of malfunctions. And therefore, sometimes it is necessary to repair the circulation pump in order to return the home heating system to its original efficiency.

It is noteworthy that, despite the variety of the model range of circulation pumps, the principle of their operation and maintenance is the same for all devices. Therefore, in this material, we will consider options in which you can avoid the services of professional specialists in the service center and repair the circulation pump with your own hands.

In order to understand the principle of repairing pumping equipment, it is necessary to thoroughly understand its structure. Such knowledge will help to identify faults in the mechanism many times faster and eliminate them.

So, the device of a standard circulation pump for heating systems is as follows:

A large, horizontally elongated steel case, in which all the working units of the system are located. In addition to steel, durable aluminum alloy or stainless steel can be used for the unit body.
The housing houses a powerful electric motor and rotor.
Here, on the rotor, an impeller with blades is fixed, which are bent in the opposite direction from the movement of the wheel. Typically, this pump element is made from durable polymers.

Important: the impeller in the pump can be positioned both horizontally and vertically, depending on the model. In this case, it is necessary to install the unit in such a way that the impeller is parallel to the pipeline.

At the moment the pump is turned on, water in the heating system (in a closed loop) is drawn into the inlet under the influence of the rotation of the impeller wheel. Due to the action of centrifugal force, the water that has entered the chamber is pressed against the walls of the working chamber and pushed out (into the outlet). Following this, the pressure in the chamber drops, which contributes to a new injection of water into the pump reservoir.

Thus, in the course of a continuous pump operation cycle, the heating system can be in a state of a constant set temperature, which significantly reduces the cost of fuel or electrical energy consumption for heating water.

Important: the circulation pump is capable of processing water up to 95 degrees Celsius, which makes its use even more justified in individual heating systems. But it is not recommended to constantly drive water of this temperature through the pipes. This will negatively affect the durability of the equipment.

To carry out a high-quality repair of the circulation pump, it will be useful to learn about the types of such equipment. So, there are two types of devices for working with water in a closed loop:

Wet rotor mechanisms;
Dry rotor pumps.

In the first case, the units are designed for constant contact of the rotor with the pumped liquid. As a result of this design, natural cooling and lubrication of all pump elements rubbing against each other occurs. The pump with a wet rotor must only be installed in a horizontal position so that the rotor is always in contact with water. A device of this type is distinguished by a low noise level during operation and a more affordable price. In addition, wet rotor pumps are easier to service and maintain.

Dry rotor units. Here the rotor is housed in a separate dry chamber. In this case, the torque is transmitted to the rotor thanks to a special clutch. It is worth noting that pumps of the circulation type with a dry rotor have greater power and performance, in contrast to their "wet" counterparts. But at the same time, they differ in a more complex device, which means they require more professionalism in identifying the causes of the malfunction and carrying out subsequent repairs.

Important: pumps with a dry rotor, unlike water supply units, can run dry. Only the load on the drive will be colossal, which will lead to quick wear of the equipment.

It is worth noting such an important point that all circulation units by the type of housing design can be divided into monoblock devices and console ones. The first ones have a single block-body, in which all the working units are located. The second consists of two blocks, each of which is intended for specific work nodes.

To be on the safe side and avoid damage to rather expensive pumping equipment, it is recommended to adhere to some basic rules for operating this type of equipment:

Do not allow the pump to turn on without the presence of a coolant in a closed loop. That is, if there is no water in the pipes of the heating system, then you should not "torment" the pump. So you provoke a quick breakdown of the equipment.
It is advisable to always maintain the required volume of heating water in the pipes. Otherwise, the pump will work for wear and tear, both in case of excess water volume, and in case of its shortage. For example, if a pump can distill an amount of water from 5 to 105 liters, then the need to work with volumes from 3 to 103 liters will already greatly wear out the working units of the unit, which will lead to its failure.
In case of prolonged downtime of the pump (during the non-heating season), it is necessary to run the unit in the operating position for at least 15 minutes once a month. This will avoid oxidation of all movable parts of the pump unit.
Try not to exceed the temperature of the coolant above 65 degrees Celsius. A higher indicator will negatively affect the working and movable parts of the structure.
When doing this, check the pump housing more often for leaks. If even the slightest leak is observed somewhere, you should immediately identify the malfunction and carry out maintenance on the pump.

Also, to protect the pumping equipment from a sudden failure, it is recommended to carry out preventive maintenance of the unit, which will include the following actions:

So, if, nevertheless, trouble happened to your circulation pump, and it refuses to work, then we will try to repair the unit with our own hands.

Important: but if you are not sure of your abilities or do not have the appropriate tool at hand, then it is better to contact a specialized center.

The reasons may be the following:

The presence of a foreign object in the impeller area;
The rotor shaft is oxidized due to prolonged downtime of the unit;
Disruption of the power supply to the terminals of the mechanism.

In the first case, you need to carefully remove the pump from the heating system and unscrew the housing in the area of the impeller. If a foreign object is found, remove it and turn the shaft by hand. When assembling the pump in the reverse order, a reliable filter must be installed on the nozzle.

If oxidation does take place, then it is well cleaned, all movable elements of the working unit are lubricated and the pump is assembled in the reverse order.

If the problem is in the quality of the power supply, then you will have to check the voltage with a tester. First, in all sections of the cable and if a break or malfunction is detected, completely replace the last one. Then, if the cable is okay, check the voltage at the terminals. If the tester shows infinity, a short circuit has occurred. If it shows less voltage, then there is a winding breakage. In both cases, the terminals are replaced.

This can happen if there is no voltage in the network. Using a tester, check the voltage and, if necessary, correct the problem.

By the way, it is recommended to protect the pump from changes in the network by installing a reliable stabilizer. Such a move will also protect the pump from burning the fuse, which fails as a result of constant pressure drops in the network.

In the first case, you will have to disassemble the pump and check it for scale. If found, limescale is removed and all joints between the rotor and stator are lubricated.

If there is no scale, then check the tightness of the fuse on the unit. Remove it and clean all clamps thoroughly. Here it is worth checking the correctness of the connection of all wires in the terminal box in phases.

The reason for this is the presence of air in a closed circuit. It is necessary to release all air masses from the pipes, and mount a special unit in the upper part of the pipeline to prevent the formation of air pockets.

Wear on the impeller bearing can also be a cause. In this case, you need to disassemble the unit housing, check the bearing and replace it if necessary.

Most likely, the point is insufficient pressure in the system. It is necessary to add water to the pipes or increase the pressure in the area of the pump inlet.

Here it is worth checking the direction of rotation of the working unit in the pump housing. If the wheel does not spin correctly, then, probably, a mistake was made when connecting the device to the terminals in phases in the case of using a three-phase network.

Another reason for a decrease in head can be a too high viscosity of the coolant. Here, the impeller experiences a lot of resistance and does not cope with the tasks set. You will have to check the condition of the strainer and, if necessary, clean it. It is also useful to check the cross-section of the pipes of the inlet and outlet openings and, if necessary, set the correct parameters for the operation of the pump.

When starting the pump again during the season, be sure to check the tightness of the entire system, the absence of extraneous noise in the operation of the pump and the presence of grease at the mating points of the housing.

If you still have to repair the pump, then prepare a bypass. This is a section of the bypass pipe that will close the circuit during repair work.

Important: it is not recommended to repair the pump by weight by disconnecting it from one of the nozzles. The heating pipe may break, especially if it is plastic.

If you have to open the pump casing, and the bolts are stubborn, then you can use a special tool called "liquid wrenches".It must be applied to the fasteners and after a while the bolt will succumb to the influence of the screwdriver.

And the most important thing: do not open the pump yourself if its warranty period has not yet expired. It is better to contact the service center in this case. In addition, in difficult cases, it may be cheaper to buy a new pump than to find components or parts for it.

Owners of autonomous heating no longer rely on the natural circulation of the coolant, forcing it to briskly run through the pipes using a circulation pump.Considering that private houses are located, for the most part, at a considerable distance from all kinds of workshops and service centers, it is very important for the owner of such a dwelling to master the repair of a circulation pump for heating with his own hands.The pump, like any other mechanism, needs periodic maintenance. Here's what the owner of such a device needs to do:

In the warm season, when the circulation pump is not working, turn it on every month for 15 minutes. Of course, the device should not work idle: if the heating system is currently empty (many drain the coolant for the summer), you just need to pump water from one container to another by connecting a pump to them using hoses. This will prevent oxidation of the shaft surface, which can result in blockage. And the bearing, thanks to such "training", will last longer.

During the heating season, periodically pay attention to how the pump works. Are there noises, vibrations, or other signs of defect development? Does the unit maintain the required system pressure? Is the engine getting too hot? A malfunction detected at an early stage is much easier to fix than an already severely neglected one.

If a coarse filter is installed in front of the pump, it must be periodically checked for contamination, even if a prepared heat carrier is used in the system (the filter can become clogged with rust washed off by the working medium from the pipe walls).

It is also necessary to check from time to time whether the amount of lubricant is sufficient in those places where it is provided.

During downtime, the gaskets in the pipes should be coated with a preservative lubricant, which will prevent them from drying out. Make sure that the temperature of the coolant in the place where the circulation pump is installed (usually it is installed on the “return” in front of the boiler itself) does not exceed the permissible value.The limit value is indicated in the passport of the device. For most models, the optimum temperature is 65 degrees.Let's see how exactly they can be expressed and what the user should do in a given situation.So, the main malfunctions of circulation pumps and how to fix them.In this case, the first suspect is a fuse, if, of course, your model has one installed. He is sensitive to voltage surges, which, alas, are not uncommon in the countryside, and at the slightest threat to the engine melt, opening the electrical circuit. After replacing the fuse, the pump will return to serviceable condition.If the fuse is intact, you should "ring" the mains wire and wiring, and also check the condition of the fuse or circuit breaker in the junction box. Perhaps he or some section of the wire needs to be replaced. Image - DIY gas boiler circulation pump repair

If everything is in order with the wiring, the winding of the electric motor may have burned out. Its condition is checked by measuring the resistance (we use a multimeter). When connected to the contacts of the working winding, the device should show 10 - 15 ohms.

Some pumps, in addition to the working one, also have a starting winding. Its resistance should be 35 - 40 ohms.

If “infinity” is displayed on the meter display instead of the indicated numbers, then the tested winding has burned out.If the readings of the multimeter, on the contrary, tend to zero, then there is an interturn short circuit. In this case, when you try to turn on the pump, the fuses in the panel will be triggered.

The reason for the "strike" of the pump can also be a breakdown of the non-polar capacitor present in the starting winding circuit. In good condition, it has a capacitance in the range of 10 - 40 μF. If the meter reading is different from normal, the part needs to be replaced.

It is possible to undertake an independent repair of the electrical part, having sufficient experience in such a matter. In most cases, however, you have to rely on specialists.

In such a situation, the pump must be turned off, otherwise the motor winding may burn out. There may be several reasons for such a breakdown:

As mentioned, the shaft can become stuck due to prolonged downtime. Likewise, an impeller that has been inactive for a long time may stick to the housing. In such a situation, you need to disassemble the pump and turn the shaft forcibly. In order for the user to be able to do this, there is a notch on the shaft, which can be caught with a screwdriver. If you could not find it, disassemble the discharge mechanism and turn the shaft, grasping the impeller itself.
The impeller can become stuck due to a foreign object entering the chamber. By removing it, you resume the system.

To prevent this from happening in the future, install a mud filter at the pump inlet.

This is how the air accumulated in the system can manifest itself. To remove it, it is most rational to equip the heating circuit with an automatic air vent. In the meantime, he is not there, the air will have to be manually bleed. Immediately after this, the pump will stop making noise.

If you observe such a phenomenon, it makes sense to check the condition of the bearing. Most likely, it is worn out and needs to be replaced.

Bearings are always installed on the shaft and into the bore with an interference fit, in other words, they are pressed in.

In factories and workshops, a special tool is used for this - a puller.

Craftsmen who do not have such a contraption knock out the bearings with careful blows of a wooden hammer or make a primitive puller on their own. It consists of a pair of plates with holes through which two studs and nuts are threaded. One plate is abutted against the end of the shaft, the other against the bearing (it is put on the shaft, for which a hole of the corresponding diameter is made in it), after which it is necessary to tighten the nuts on the studs one by one and very gradually.

Pump vibration can also be caused by excessive cavitation. To solve this problem, it is necessary to increase the pressure at the inlet to the unit by raising the level of the coolant in the circuit.

The heating circulation pump is effective even in houses with a simple heating system, so you need to know how to choose the right appliance. Circulation pump for heating: how to choose, we will consider in this topic.

We will analyze the essence of a heating system with natural circulation at this link.

A heat pump for heating a home is not the most common option, but it is great for economical heating. In this article https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1207/otopitelnoe-oborudovanie/otopitelnye-pribory/teplovoj-nasos-dlya-otopleniya-doma.html we will consider the principle of operation of the unit and give an example of calculation collector.

The pump does not provide the required head or works for a very short period of time, after which it immediately turns off

By mixing up the contacts, you can even force the impeller to rotate in the opposite direction (in units with a 3-phase motor), which is the reason for the drop in head.

Having carefully studied the connection diagram given in the instructions for the product, you can probably detect an error and reconnect the pump correctly.

In anticipation of cold weather, it is necessary to bring the heating system on alert.With regard to the circulation pump, the following must be done:

Check the tightness of the pump connections to the piping. If a leak is found, the nut or coupling must be tightened slightly. If this does not help, you will have to replace the cracked gasket or seal. With a lack of experience, it is better to use fluoroplastic (FUM-tape) or Tangit Unilok linen thread for sealing pipe threaded connections.
If there is a strainer in front of the pump, check its condition and rinse if necessary.
Make sure there is sufficient grease in the motor and bearings.
It will not be superfluous to measure the voltage in the outlet with a multimeter, through which the pump will be connected to the network. There are cases when electricians in rural settlements, instead of a 2-phase voltage, supplied a 3-phase voltage (380 volts) to houses. Normal, 2-phase voltage parameters may also be abnormal. If the multimeter shows, for example, 235 V or 205 V instead of the required 220, you need to contact the appropriate service of the energy company.

If you have no complaints about the quality of the power supply and you could not find the coolant leaks, you should carry out a test run of the pump and let it run for some time. The absence of the above symptoms will show that the device is ready for the new heating season.

Since forced circulation is more efficient than natural circulation, circulating pumps are becoming more and more in demand. Circulation pump for heating systems - installation procedure and selection features, read carefully.

We will analyze the positive and negative aspects of the Leningradka heating system in the next topic.

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