This spring we were taken for repairs, when it was cold they could not start. And in winter he is out of work.
Thanks for the video. I also have a cylinder leaking at 892. As they told me. And remove the wheel, and pull out the tank. I think: "My God!" It turns out that it can be simpler. Live and learn !
Hydraulic cylinders Ts100x200-3 (both the old model and the new model) are designed to raise, lower and hold in a certain position the rear linkage mechanism with an agricultural machine (tractor MTZ, YuMZ) mounted on it, or working bodies of hydraulic semi-mounted and trailed machines.
Hydraulic cylinder ГЦ100.40х200.01 (figure 1) includes a body (pos. 13), front (pos. 9) and back (pos. 14) covers, a rod (pos. 3), a piston (pos. 2), an oil line (pos. 4), valve (pos. 5) for adjusting the stroke. The cylinder body is made in the form of a tube with an inner diameter machined to a high degree of purity. The body with the covers are sealed with O-rings (pos. 11), which are located in the cover grooves. The covers are tightened to the body with four studs (key 12). The rear cover (pos. 14), made of steel, ends with a fork that connects through a pin to a fixed bracket on the tractor.
The fork and stem are friction welded together. The stem is sealed in the front cover by rings (pos. 10), protected by protective gaskets against liquid extrusion. A pack of scrapers (key 8), which are stamped from a sheet of steel, is designed to clean the stem from dirt when it is pulled into the bonnet.
Oil enters the TsS-100 cylinder and is discharged through the front cover, and then flows into cavity A (rod) or through the oil line (pos. 4) into the rear cover and then into cavity B (rodless). The piston (pos. 2) is attached to the stem (pos. 3) with a nut (pos. 1) and sealed in the body with rubber rings. With the help of a thumbscrew, a stop (key 7) is attached to the stem, which acts on the valve shank (key 5) during movement. The valve piston (item 5) has a groove into which a tapered rubber ring is vulcanized along the outer contour.
Hydraulic cylinder Ts100-200-3 on MTZ and YuMZ tractors installed in such a way that the lifting of the linkage mechanism is carried out when the rod is retracted. The stop, installed near the fork (extreme position), does not reduce the stroke of the stem, but with each lifting of the linkage mechanism it acts on the valve stem, causing it to move into the cover seat. With the “floating” position of the spool (at the moment of lowering the machine), the valve piston does not fully enter the sleeve and leaves only a small gap through which cavity B is filled with oil. With the subsequent adoption of the “lift” position by the spool, spontaneous “suction” of the valve into the lid seat and overlapping of the oil outlet from cavity B is possible. After that, the retraction of the stem stops. In order to raise the linkage mechanism in this case, you need to set the distributor handle to lower (the valve will be pushed out by the oil flow from the seat of the cover), and then quickly move the handle to the lifting position. In order to avoid spontaneous closure of the channel by the valve, it is necessary to move the stop to the extreme position, turning it so that it does not affect the valve shank.
1 - nut; 2 - piston; 3 - stock; 4 - oil pipeline; 5 - travel control valve; 6 - rod plug; 7 - emphasis; 8 - guillemots; 9 - front cover; 10, 11 - sealing rings; 12 - hairpins; 13 - case; 14 - back cover; A - rod cavity; B - rodless cavity.
Type in a line and hit Enter
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Unscrew the high pressure hose union nuts from the hydraulic cylinder pipes. Cover openings in cylinder and sleeves to keep dust out.
Attach the cylinder to the lift (fig. 320). The mass of the hydraulic cylinder is 82 kg. Unscrew the three nuts securing the covers and remove the spring washers.
Remove the front cover 28 (Fig. 321) and remove the bolts 15 from the holes of the covers and the cylinder. Remove the cylinder from the journal, supporting two crackers 26 and two keys 14 so that they do not fall.
Unscrew the two bolts 23 fastening the yoke to the cylinder body, remove the yoke 29 and the gasket 24. Unscrew the union nut of the pipe 6 and remove the pipe. Unscrew the bolts. 22 fastening the cover and remove the rod 3 with the piston 9 from the cylinder body together with the cover 4 and seal parts. Remove the union nut 13 and the nut 12 securing the piston on the rod. Remove the piston 9. with packing parts from the rod.
Remove from the piston 1 (Fig. 322) the cuffs 3 and the protective rings 2. Remove the rubber ring from the rod 3 (see Fig. 321). With a screwdriver, remove the circlip 8 from the groove of the bushing 7. Remove the pin 5 from the bore of the bushing and the rod and remove the sleeve from the stem. Remove from the stem bore in sequence: bushing 16, valve 17, spring 10, spacer I, the second valve. Remove the second sleeve with a puller. Remove the rubber rings 20 from the grooves of the bushings 16.
Remove the cover 4 with a scraper and seal parts from the stem. Remove the rubber ring 6 from the groove (Fig. 323). Unscrew three bolts 1 fastening the scraper 13 and remove the scraper with spacers 2 and scrapers 10 and 12. Remove spacers 2 and scrapers from the scraper. Remove from the cover in sequence: washer 3, pressure ring 4, four cuffs 5, support ring 9, second washer and two spring rings 8. Press bushing 7 out of the cover.
Unscrew the nuts 2 (see Fig. 321) of the bolts of the caps 30 of the rod and remove the caps.Remove the crackers with the sphere 1 from the stem trunnion hole and remove the keys.
Dismantling of the valve with sleeve is not allowed. Valve cones and bushings must be ground in until annular bands with a width of at least 0.3 mm appear.
The normal clearance between the valve sleeve bore and the valve ribs should be within 0.008. 0.050 mm.
The normal inner diameter of the cylinder is 100 ± 0.07 mm.
The normal outer diameter of the ring on the piston is 100 ± 0.14 mm.
On the rubbing surfaces of the cylinder, piston, rod, as well as in the grooves for the O-rings, risks, nicks and other defects are not allowed.
When assembling, it is not allowed to cut the rubber O-rings, protective gaskets and cuffs.
The parts of the hydraulic cylinder must be protected from dust and dirt during storage and assembly.
O-rings must not be permanently deformed.
Before assembly, flush all parts with diesel fuel and blow dry with compressed air. Before assembly, lubricate the rubbing surfaces of parts and rubber rings with a thin layer of engine oil.
Press bushing 7 (see Fig. 323) into the cover hole until it stops in the shoulder. The beating of the bore surface of the sleeve relative to the cylindrical surface of the cover should be no more than 0.05 mm.
Install two spring rings 8 into the hole in the cover until they stop against the end of the bushing. Install the washer 3 as far as it will go into the end of the snap ring. Install the support ring 9 into the hole in the cover until it stops with the flat side into the end of the washer. Install the four cuffs 5 and the pressure ring 4 into the hole in the cover until it stops in the support ring. Install the second washer 3 as far as it will go into the pressure ring.
Install twelve scrapers 12 1 mm thick, ten scrapers 11 0.6 mm thick, and eight scrapers 10 0.2 mm thick into the bore of scraper 13. Set scrapers 11 0.2 mm thick and 10 0.6 mm thick one after the other, starting and ending with scraper 11 0.6 mm thick. Insert a scraper with scrapers into the hole of the cover and install twelve spacers between the scraper and the cover 2. Align the holes in the scraper, spacers and the cover, insert bolts 1 with lock washers into them and tighten them by 2.3 turns. Put a rubber ring 6 into the groove of the cover and lubricate it with engine oil.
Put on the sphere 1 (see Fig. 321) two crackers 26 and, aligning the keyways of the stem journal and the crackers, insert the sphere with the crackers into the trunnion. Install two dowels 14. Install crackers with the same numbers of digital stamps. Place cover 30 and, aligning the holes in the cover and trunnion, insert three bolts with lock washers. Put the second cover on the bolts and fix it with bolts with nuts 2 and lock washers. Slide a 3 taper arbor over the threaded end of the stem. Press the assembled cover 4 onto the stem with a scraper to the axle. Remove the tapered mandrel. Put the sleeve 7 on the rod. Align the holes of the rod and the sleeve, insert the pin 5 into the hole. Install the spring ring into the groove of the sleeve 8. Put the protective rings 2 on the piston 1 (see Fig. 322) until it stops at the end. Install two cuffs 3 on the piston until they stop in the protective rings. Slide the stop 18 onto the stem (see Fig. 321). Install the O-ring 19 into the groove of the rod. Put the piston 9 with cuffs on the rod and install the second stop 18. Fix the piston ’on the rod with nut 12. The tightening torque of the nut is 1200. 1500 Nm (120.150 kgf-m).
Install the O-ring 20 into the groove of the valve sleeve 16 and install the sleeve into the stem bore until it stops at the end. Insert the valve 17 into the bore of the bushing: Install the spacer 11 into the bore of the stem until it stops in the bushing and the spring 10 on the valve shank. Install the second valve with the shank into the spring bore. Slide the O-ring over the second valve bushing and insert the bushing into the stem bore. Screw the union nut 13 onto the threaded surface of the stem. Disassembly of the valve with the sleeve is not allowed, since these parts are ground against each other.
Press the piston rod into the cylinder body 21, aligning the cylindrical surface of the cover with the cylinder bore.The piston must turn without binding and move over a length of 800 mm. Align the holes in the housing with the holes in the cover 4 and fix the cover with four bolts 2 with spring washers.
Screw the pipe union nut 6 onto the body nipple. Place gasket 24 under the pipe in the radius recess of the rear cover. Place the yoke 29 on the pipe and fix it with two bolts 23 with spring washers. Tighten bolts 1 (see Fig. 323).
Install the cover 25 (see Fig. 321) and two crackers 26 on the journal of the hydraulic tank. Connect the hydraulic cylinder to the lift (see Fig. 320) and bring it to the tractor. Slide the cylinder onto the crackers and align the keyways in the cylinder and the crackers. Insert two keys 14 (see Fig. 321). Install the cover 28 on the cylinder and align the holes in the cylinder and the covers. Fasten the covers to the cylinder with 15 bolts with nuts and lock washers. Screw the L7 oiler into the cover 28. Screw the union nuts of the high pressure hoses onto the hydraulic cylinder pipe fittings. Check the high pressure line for leaks by moving the distributor handle at least eight times to the LIFT and FORCED LOWER positions.
We will promptly and competently advise on the entire available base of spare parts for T-170, T-130, D-160, D-180, DZ-98, OB10.
TM "Rus" has put on sale updated repair kits TsS-75, TsS-80, TsS-100, TsS-110, TsS-125.
In the new repair kits with the letter "p", the factory seals were replaced with polyurethane TPU, which will significantly extend the service life of the hydraulic cylinders.
Main advantages:
– Extend the life of the hydraulic cylinder by 3 times
- Corresponds to the seats of the factory hydraulic cylinder
- Easy and reliable assembly
- Have high strength
- Resistant to swelling in mineral oils and water-oil emulsions
throughout Ukraine
The old model TsS 100x200 hydraulic cylinder is designed to raise and lower the hinge plate of tractors and agricultural implements. Analogue ГЦ100.40х200.01, Ц100х200-3, ЦС-100. We invite everyone interested to cooperate. Parameters The old-model TsS100x200 hydraulic cylinder has the following parameters: efficiency value - 0.94 (hydromechanical); speed (max / nom.) - 1 / 0.15 m / s; the size of the piston stroke - 200 mm; D cylinder / rod - 100/40 mm; pressure (nominal / max) - 200/160 atm.
Please contact us regarding the repair of your Ts100x200 hydraulic cylinder. We carry out prompt and inexpensive repair of the hydraulic cylinder TsS 100x200 s / o, as well as sell completely new components for various types of equipment. For all questions of purchase, please contact our managers by phone numbers indicated in the contacts section.
Pros:
Minuses:
Pros:
Minuses:
Pros:
Minuses:
Pros:
Minuses:
Pros:
Minuses:
Pros:
Minuses:
Pros:
Minuses:
Pros:
Minuses:
In the hydraulic drives of tractors, double-acting cylinders with a nominal pressure of 14.0 are used; 16.0 and 20.0 MPa of the following grades Ts-50-2; Ts-75; Ts-80-2; Ts-100-2; Ts-110-2; Ts-125-2 / 3 / (Figure 19).
Telescopic (hydraulic rams) cylinders are used on dump trucks. During the operation of agricultural machinery, in a number of cases, the hydraulic cylinder is not capable of developing the required force (N, kN), which does not allow the operation of lifting agricultural equipment or other type of work. A deviation from the norms and requirements should be considered as the spontaneous lowering of the tool, mounted machines, "lethargy" and slow movement of the stock, which leads to a violation of the agrotechnical requirements for soil cultivation, crop care, and a decrease in labor productivity.
1 - pin: 2 - cotter pin; 3 - the back cover of the cylinder; 4 - washer; 5, 10 and 22 - sealing rings; 6 - oil line washer; 7 - oil pipeline; 8 - rod assembly; 9 - cylinder body; 11 - front cover; 12 - cork; 13 - valve body assembly; 14 - valve sealing ring; 15 - valve assembly; 16 - scrapers cover; 17 - stop assembly; 18 - bolt; 19 - nut; 20- spring washer; 21 - guillemots; 23 - piston; 24 - piston sealing gasket; 25 - piston sealing ring; 26- nut assembly.
Figure 19. - Power cylinder.
Disassembly of the power cylinder includes the following basic operations. The top cover is detached. Next, the piston with the rod is removed. By disconnecting the piston from the rod, the rod and the top cover are disconnected. The deceleration valve is unscrewed from the top cover. Power cylinder malfunctions (table 6) most often occur due to improper assembly, wear and tear of its individual parts. During the operation of the power cylinders, the O-rings, the piston, the valve for limiting the piston stroke and its seat wear out the most. Cases of breakage of the movable stop, bending or breakage of the valve stem are observed. This occurs when an attempt is made to raise the implement with the stop touching the valve stem. At the same time, the valve is pushed out by the oil pressure and, resting against the stop, breaks it or bends the valve stem.
Table 6. - Typical failures of the power cylinder
In practice, there are cases when the tractor driver, when working with a mounted plow, sets the plowing depth not only with the help of the support wheel, but at the same time fixes the movable stop on the piston rod in a position corresponding to the set depth of soil cultivation. When plowing, the piston is in a floating position and the plow moves in a vertical plane, copying the topography of the field, and the piston rod moves with it. When the rod is pulled into the cylinder, the stop valve turns into a mechanical locking device and this leads to breakage of the movable stop, bending or breakage of the valve stem, or separation of the yoke from the lower cylinder cover.
Piston (Figure 21) wears out at the point of contact with the cylinder liner. At the same time, its outer diameter decreases and the seal of the liner deteriorates. When the piston is worn by more than 0.45 mm, it is rejected and a new one is made from the AL-10V aluminum alloy so that the clearance in conjunction with the cylinder corresponds to the data in Table 6.
Cylinder liner made of 40X steel, its inner surface is hardened by high-frequency currents.If there are scratches on the sleeve mirror, risks, it is polished until traces of wear are removed and the piston is adjusted to the size obtained, maintaining a normal gap in the mating.
V top cylinder cover the hole at the interface with the piston rod wears out. When worn to a gap in the mating of more than 0.5 mm, the top cover must be repaired. To do this, it is installed with a centering collar in the chuck of a lathe and the hole for the rod is bored to size D (Figure 20 and Table 7) grooves for the piston rod O-ring. Then, two bushings with an inner diameter of d are turned from bronzel , external D1 and length L1 and L2 . The bushings are pressed into the hole bored in the lid and the internal diameter is brought to the value D with a reamer.2 .
In the top cover, the seat for the valve for limiting the piston stroke is also worn out. The tightness between the seat and the rubber sealing ring of the valve seat should be within 0.6 - 1.2 mm. If this tightness is lost, replace the O-ring and valve seat, choosing the largest parts within the manufacturing tolerances (table 8).
Sealing rubber rings replace with new ones when they lose elasticity. When replacing the rings, they must protrude above the surface of the centering collars of the cylinder covers by at least 0.25 mm.
1 - top cover; 2 - upper bushing: 3 - lower bushing.
Figure 20. - Assembly of the upper cylinder cover.
Table 7.- Repair dimensions of the upper cylinder cover parts, mm
Wheel repair with quality assurance
The compressor of this model uses plate valves, which wear out during operation and require replacement. Structurally, the valves in the compressor are located between the head and the cylinder. Wear is the result of varying loads that occur during start-up and exhaust strokes.
Let the compressor run for about three minutes to warm up (necessary to facilitate loosening of the screws)
De-energize the compressor.
Unscrew the four screws securing the head to the cylinder in sequence
Remember the position of the metal gasket and pull it out together with the valves
With a soft cloth soaked in kerosene, wipe the mating surfaces of the head and cylinder, as well as the metal gasket
Place the intake valve in the recess on the cylinder
Lubricate the bottom surface of the gasket with a thin layer of grease and install it in its original place, press the gasket against the cylinder around the perimeter
Lubricate the tips of the new valve and install it in the recess in the head. Lubrication is only needed to temporarily "glue" the valve to the recess, otherwise it will fall out during installation
Press the head against the cylinder and screw in the screws, successively stretching them crosswise
In a tire workshop, with intensive work, the compressor valves should be revised at least once every two years or in the event of interruptions in the operation of the unit, characterized by the appearance of extraneous noise similar to sharp pops in the process of air injection into the receiver.
Shock absorbers are a kind of consumable for your car. Moreover, the cost of maintaining the suspension in working order is inversely proportional to the quality of the roads. Car owners are constantly looking for ways to save money on the repair and maintenance of their car. We will tell you about self-repair and restoration of the characteristics of the shock absorber struts.
Typical malfunctions of this node are known to everyone:
Depressurization of the stem packing. Leads to oil leakage from the rack. It can leak at any time. The characteristics change up to a complete loss of performance.
Too free movement of the stem in the pipe. In fact, the strut turns from a shock absorber into a guide for the suspension spring. The malfunction is related to the internal valves.
Compression or rebound play. Associated with the development in the rod or cylinder. The consequences are similar to broken valves. The shock absorber does not perform its function in a car, it knocks, rattles and makes other unpleasant sounds, why driving in such a car becomes uncomfortable and dangerous.
External damage - dents on the body, cracks in the eyelet. Affects the chassis as a whole and can lead to more serious damage.
If any malfunction is detected, it is necessary to remove the rack and release it from the spring. Dismantling is carried out in the garage, without the use of special tools.
Sometimes the owners of foreign cars, noticing that their racks have leaked, turn to the service station for diagnostics, where they will carry out a check at the stand.
In fact, this is not such an easy task. Before carrying out work, you should carefully study the material and observe safety precautions. First of all, you need to determine whether you have a collapsible shock absorber or not. The monolithic body is not repairable, opening with a grinder and brewing is unacceptable.
If there is a nut or a retaining ring in the place where the stem enters the pipe, such a shock absorber strut can be serviced and repaired.
Compressor for supplying compressed air or pump for servicing bicycle shock absorbers.
Special connection for compressed air injection.
Retaining ring puller.
Spanner wrenches of the corresponding diameter, depending on the design of the rack.
Workbench and powerful vise.
Attention! Safety must be taken care of. Work involves high pressure, so eye and hand protection is essential.
The shock absorber is firmly fixed in a vice, the position is vertical. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the part and blow out the piston rod entry point with compressed air. It is disassembled - removing the protective cap of the stem.
Then a device for gas injection is put on the rod. We pump gas to the required pressure. Care should be taken during this operation. The pressure build-up procedure can be repeated several times until the desired adjustment is achieved.
After that, the stem oil seal is lubricated and a protective cap is put on the body.
You can watch the process in the video.
VIDEO There are different opinions: how to fill a car shock absorber. Nitrogen, carbon dioxide or just compressed air? In a garage, there are few options. Compressed air will not degrade performance much, especially since this is a repair and not a factory made rack.
The rack must be completely disassembled and cleaned of dirt and old oil. Check the O-rings and the condition of the inner pipe wall.
Then the assembled rod in the pipe is placed in a container with oil (you can find out the type of fluid from the characteristics of your shock absorber). Oil is drawn in with a smooth movement. The procedure is repeated several times until the air bubbles disappear. You need to hold the part vertically.
If the stand is non-separable, you can install a bleed nipple at the bottom. To do this, it is enough to drill a hole, fill the rack with oil through it and tighten the screw on the sealant or weld it. In this way, the owners of domestic cars with solid mileage restore the performance of the shock absorbers.
VIDEO
The next malfunction is damage to the stem, oil seals, valves inside the rack. There are a number of spare parts on the market for repairing collapsible shock absorbers. In addition, an experienced motorist never throws away old spare parts, but tries to repair them. In addition, you can always extract workable parts from them.
So, we disassemble the shock absorber. We remove and defect the rod with the piston, valves and O-rings. Parts that have become unusable must be replaced. Elastic bands can be selected from universal ones on the market. Metal parts are ordered from a turner (if you could not find a suitable size).
We assemble the unit, carefully following the sequence of installing the parts.
Tip: The entire process of disassembling the shock absorber should be photographed. This will avoid assembly problems.
It is important to ensure that the assembly is clean, the ingress of dirt or solid metal particles will quickly damage the remanufactured shock absorber.
Especially carefully it is necessary to defect the valves, since their correct operation sets the characteristics of the shock absorber. The softness setting can be done by changing the number of washers in the stem mechanism. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's technical documentation. There are no universal solutions.
After that, we install the rod into the cylinder. It is recommended to replace the oil seal, but if it is in perfect condition, it is enough to clean it and put in new grease.
After that, new oil is poured into the shock absorber, up to the very top of the pipe. When installing the stem, excess will flow out. Do not be afraid of excessive consumption of oil, the main thing is to prevent air from entering the pipe cavity.
After installing the stem, gently move it to release bubbles through the valve. The shock absorber is then assembled and installed on the vehicle.
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
If you have basic information about how your shock absorbers work, you can save money on replacing them. Most of the rack models are repairable and the parts are either reasonably priced or made in-house.
